Last night we returned to CITYZEN at the Mandarin Oriental Washington (http://www.mandarinoriental.com/hotel/535000428.asp) after a way too long two year hiatus, but then the pricing of this top rated posh spot makes it a place one does not go to regularly (unless you are related to Bill Gates!). These days the menu has three options, a 3 course a la carte at $75.00, a 6 course vegetarian tasting at $90, or the Chef's tasting menu at $105 for 6 courses (both tastings offer wines by the glass at an extra $75).
Two of us could not resist the tasting menu, while Will went for a la carte.
We started with a glass of Chatogne-Taillet Brut Champagne from Merfy which is a small grower (Will got a kick out of this term) making a super yeasty bubbly that we all adored.
Chef Eric Ziebold is having lots of fun with his amuses these days and they were all superb starting with the MUSHROOM FRITTER over Mushroom Puree and Truffle Oil, continuing with the GREEN EGGS & HAM (which is one of Samuel's favorite books these days!) which is a magnificent assembly of QUAIL EGG with Ham Salad with Leek Puree. Himalayan Rock Salt is shaved over this to replace the egg yolk, and it has that sulphery smell of yolk! A third amuse was a LOBSTER BROTH which really needs to be renamed as it was thicker and richer than broth, but not a bisque and had a wonderful cappuccino-like froth on top served in an espresso cup.
One of these amuses (I forget which) was for those of us on the tasting menu, while Will received a yummy creamy rich OLIVE OIL CUSTARD instead (I had to taste!).
The breads came and I think this may be the only sore spot at Cityzen. While the bread was very good, the choices SOUNDED better than they tasted: Bacon Cheese Potato, Guinness (beer) Rye and Country all were fresh, but did not really taste much from their named ingredients. Of course, the big winner at Cityzen is the little jewelry box presentation of the magnificent mini-Parker House rolls with the main course! Our first wine was a Grenache Blanc/Gris 2005 from Domaine de la Dourbie in Coteau de Languedoc which has a huge acidity but lots of flavors which went very well with our fish courses. Will started with
the PAN ROASTED ROUELLE OF SPOTTED SKATEWING with Meyer Lemon, Spanish Caper, and Cardoon Gratin which was rich and creamy from the cardoon (thistle-related) gratin and sauce. His entree was the excellent RHODE ISLAND MONKFISH STEW with Caramelized Celery Root, York Apple, Braised Salsify Applewood Smoked Bacon and Matelotte Sauce.
Our wonderful main menu started with CARPACCIO OF ATLANTIC FLUKE Fuyu Persimmon, Puffed Japanese Sweet Rice, Micro Peppercress and Pomegranate Vinaigrette which was wonderfully crunchy due to the rice and full of so many flavors it was hard to experience them all, but we tried. Next came GRILLED ATLANTIC DAY BOAT SCALLOPS with Belgian Endive Marmelade, Citrus Velouté and Lobster Oil which is easily one of the top scallop dishes around these days. As we finished our fish we started on a bottle of PODERI ELIA Barbaresco 2000 "Serracapilli" which was a bit tight at first so we let it open up; after 30 minutes, we opted to go on to another red, and save the Barberesco for our cheese course as it was just sooooo big.
Our tasting continued with POLLY-FACE FARMS POUSSIN with Dried Currant and Italian Pistachio Mousse, Parsnip Purée, Sugar Pie Pumpkin and Swiss Chard Rouelle. The chard was done up like a nori wrap and the mousse was more like polenta in consistency, all of which made this dish a great experience.
We moved on to our second red, a 2005 DOMAINE de PIAUGOT Sablet from Tenebi which is made from the Cunoise varietal, a rarer but not expensive and very excellent wine that goes with just about everything.
BRAISED KAGOSHIMA KUROGE BEEF SHORTRIBS with Marinated Beets, Cipollini Onions, and Caramelized Salsify was our big meat course and the meat was superb, perfectly cooked off the bone, moist, tasty and not too large either.
As most of you know, before coming back to DC, Chef Ziebold was Executive Chef at the French Laundry in Napa, and it is clear that his style, flair and multi-course meals are a direct result of that experience. I can easily say that it is like having our own version of the Laundry here in DC (especially since our meal ended up being 12 courses including the amuses and post-desserts!).
The cheese course from the trolley was loads of fun and offered up some of the best variety around: Latur from Lombardy (Italy), Fromage de MEAUX, a superb triple creme goat cheese from KUNIK, New York, Brascinella Staginata, a cow HOULIGAN from Connecticut, Caschel from Ireland, PECORINO di Nocce, a crunchy and wonderfully nutty tasting ROOMANO 5year aged GOUDA. Will munched on some English DORSET in honor of his homeland. The plates came with Apricot and Anjou Pear
Marmalades which were yummy as well.
Our dessert was a CHEESECAKE CHIBOUST with Soft Graham Cracker and Passionfruit Sauce, perfectly light and in no way over-filling. Will's super dessert was a MAPLE & PECAN TARTE with Sugar Pumpkin Ice Cream, but as I mentioned, it was nowhere near over. A tasty glass of MOSCATO d'ASTI came as we moved on to the post desserts of HUCKLEBERRY Sorbet in Peanut Tuille with Peanut Butter Bavaroise Creme!! and then the PINEAPPLE SORBET with Spiced Rum Granita. Almost four hours after we arrived the mignardises of Orange Jellies, Hazelnut Chocolates and Caramel Butter Cream Macaroons arrived before we headed home very
happy.
Incidentally, kudos to the entire staff under manager Mark Politzer who are friendly, attentive, kind and helpful at every turn. I also must note that sommelier Andy Meyers, who has one of the most varied wine cellars in town, is always helpful and will not hesitate to recommend an excellent $40 bottle as well as one for ten or twenty times as much!
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Sunday, January 20, 2008
D'ACQUA - delicious but also a disappointment re:Rest Week
Last night we took Samuel to D'ACQUA which over a year ago took over the space vacated by the ill-fated SIGNATURES at 801 Pennsylvania Ave, NW (tel 202-783-7717). The gorgeous sleek, warm and elegant feel is now gone and replaced by a bistro feel of muted terra cotta arches and walls, green tablecloths and shimmery sheer drapes. Sadly, the drapes adorn the floor-to-ceiling windows which allowed way too much cold air to penetrate (ok, it was the coldest night this winter) them.
The long L-shaped bar remains, now with two flat screen TV's that can be seen from most of the dining room; I hate this. Televisions are fine for bars and cheap establishments as pizza parlors, but not for a fine dining location.
Samuel did get a great plate of PENNE Pasta with Fresh Tomato Sauce and lots of cheese, which was so huge, we took home more than half of it. I could not help feel that they don't really want to cater to children (even though the dish was available and only $10) and this was somehow evident in the speed with which every course was delivered; WAY TOO FAST. We were out of there in just over an hour, which is just ridiculous, especially when the place is not that full and the table is not needed (which is still NO EXCUSE!).
Will and I took one look at the $30.08 3-course Restaurant Menu with its somewhat unexciting 4 appetizers and totally boring 3 entrees and decided to go a la carte, raising the price of dinner about $40-50, but at least giving us some delicious food that we desired.
Incidentally, the three entrees were a Ravioli with Chard and Ricotta filling, Salmon and a Lamb Steak; see what I mean. Furthermore, why should an establishment known for fish offer only ONE fish entree; this is a total lack of understanding of Restaurant Week.
Anyway, we ordered a delicious bottle of VINNAE JERMANN 2005 Bianco Veneziana Giulia from Friuli, clearly a blend of wines which neither the waiter (when asked)nor the bottle elaborated on. Excellent long thin breadsticks and some of the best FOCACCIA around with fresh tomatoes on every giant slice made us happy as Samuel conducted with the breadsticks!
We ordered Samuel's pasta at about 7:10pm and it arrived steeping hot less than 5 minutes later and our appetizers followed shortly thereafter before 7:15. Will had the BURATA CHEESE and a gorgeous CHERRY TOMATO SALAD wrapped in a cucumber cylinder ring. I adored the tender, tasty BABY CLAMS with WHITE WINE and loaded with Garlic, but must agree with Mr. Sietsema (of the Wash Post) that the one piece of grilled bread that accompanies it is not nearly enough to mop up the yummy broth. How chincy can one be with the bread?
At about 730pm our entrees arrived while we still had our appetizer plates in front of us; for me this is unacceptable, Will had the tasty MONKFISH wrapped in PANCETTA with fresh Herbs, Lemon, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Shitake Mushrooms, while I opted for the GROUPER with SAUSAGE & LENTILS which was a huge portion loaded with simply cooked fish and a superb sauce of lentils and tons of slightly spicy sausage chunks.
Sam enjoyed a tasty scoop of MIXED BERRY Sorbet which came with one blackberry and one slice of strawberry (do I seem cynical here?), which he wolfed down and proceeded to lick the plate as well. I joked that he might consider eating the plate and he mockingly took a bite of it! Will and I decided to opt for the signature STRUDEL which was Banana with Raisins with Pecans in Caramel Sauce on the menu. Our server apologized and said that because the strudel was one of the 3 or 4 choices on the Restaurant week menu they had run out of it (and it was only about 655pm!). Will decided on the TIRAMISU and I had a bite feeling very full and just wanting to leave..which we did at 710pm.
So, while the dishes were great, for the most part, I felt the warmth was at tepid and the speed to fast, and the essence of Restaurant Week totally missing.
The long L-shaped bar remains, now with two flat screen TV's that can be seen from most of the dining room; I hate this. Televisions are fine for bars and cheap establishments as pizza parlors, but not for a fine dining location.
Samuel did get a great plate of PENNE Pasta with Fresh Tomato Sauce and lots of cheese, which was so huge, we took home more than half of it. I could not help feel that they don't really want to cater to children (even though the dish was available and only $10) and this was somehow evident in the speed with which every course was delivered; WAY TOO FAST. We were out of there in just over an hour, which is just ridiculous, especially when the place is not that full and the table is not needed (which is still NO EXCUSE!).
Will and I took one look at the $30.08 3-course Restaurant Menu with its somewhat unexciting 4 appetizers and totally boring 3 entrees and decided to go a la carte, raising the price of dinner about $40-50, but at least giving us some delicious food that we desired.
Incidentally, the three entrees were a Ravioli with Chard and Ricotta filling, Salmon and a Lamb Steak; see what I mean. Furthermore, why should an establishment known for fish offer only ONE fish entree; this is a total lack of understanding of Restaurant Week.
Anyway, we ordered a delicious bottle of VINNAE JERMANN 2005 Bianco Veneziana Giulia from Friuli, clearly a blend of wines which neither the waiter (when asked)nor the bottle elaborated on. Excellent long thin breadsticks and some of the best FOCACCIA around with fresh tomatoes on every giant slice made us happy as Samuel conducted with the breadsticks!
We ordered Samuel's pasta at about 7:10pm and it arrived steeping hot less than 5 minutes later and our appetizers followed shortly thereafter before 7:15. Will had the BURATA CHEESE and a gorgeous CHERRY TOMATO SALAD wrapped in a cucumber cylinder ring. I adored the tender, tasty BABY CLAMS with WHITE WINE and loaded with Garlic, but must agree with Mr. Sietsema (of the Wash Post) that the one piece of grilled bread that accompanies it is not nearly enough to mop up the yummy broth. How chincy can one be with the bread?
At about 730pm our entrees arrived while we still had our appetizer plates in front of us; for me this is unacceptable, Will had the tasty MONKFISH wrapped in PANCETTA with fresh Herbs, Lemon, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Shitake Mushrooms, while I opted for the GROUPER with SAUSAGE & LENTILS which was a huge portion loaded with simply cooked fish and a superb sauce of lentils and tons of slightly spicy sausage chunks.
Sam enjoyed a tasty scoop of MIXED BERRY Sorbet which came with one blackberry and one slice of strawberry (do I seem cynical here?), which he wolfed down and proceeded to lick the plate as well. I joked that he might consider eating the plate and he mockingly took a bite of it! Will and I decided to opt for the signature STRUDEL which was Banana with Raisins with Pecans in Caramel Sauce on the menu. Our server apologized and said that because the strudel was one of the 3 or 4 choices on the Restaurant week menu they had run out of it (and it was only about 655pm!). Will decided on the TIRAMISU and I had a bite feeling very full and just wanting to leave..which we did at 710pm.
So, while the dishes were great, for the most part, I felt the warmth was at tepid and the speed to fast, and the essence of Restaurant Week totally missing.
Friday, January 18, 2008
Restaurant K by Alison Swope swings in with winners
As we all know Restaurant Week can be hit or miss, but the brand new Restaurant K by Alison Swope (1700 K St, NW Washington tel 202-974-6545) is a sure hit. They are offering up not only 90% of the large superb menu for the special $30.08 three course deal, but also have 4 white and 5 red wines at the same price which are a steal. Add this to the fact that Alison Swope has always been a success here in DC from her opening of New Heights thru Santa Fe East and most recently for many years at Andale in the Penn Quarter. The dining room is quite large with a large bar area as well, but was never noisy. The decor is unremarkable, but cozy with lots of roomy booths and earthy tones.
Even on Restaurant Week the amuse comes out and ours was a tiny but tasty GORGONZOLA & WALNUT SHORTBREAD with Housemade FIG JELLY. The cheese was not overpowering at all in the "bread" slice and indeed had just the right amount of flavor. Our amazing $30.08 bottle of TORII MOR Pinot Noir 2006 from the Willamette Valley in Oregon was a perfect match for just about anything on the menu; big full-bodied and loaded with fruit, this is a can't miss wine, especially at this price!
My dining companion (Will needed a stay at home night after a full week of Restaurant Week lunches working at Kinkead's!) and I decided to share our courses, so we wisely ordered different options and shared plates. Our server William was a genius in giving us ideas and options from the large menu.
We started with the LAMB SAUSAGE on PLANTAIN "Tostones" with Goat Cheese and Parsley Pistou. There were three large slices of slightly spicy and very tasty sausage and the small round plantain tostones were soft and a nice foil with the soft runny goat cheese. The parsley pistou was a vibrant green, but parsley always seems to have virtually no taste for me; besides, everything else on the plate was so tasty, it was perfect. The WILD MUSHROOM BAKLAVA is really more of a Napoleon with PIPE DREAMS FRAM GOAT CHEESE, Balsamic Reduction and Roasted Sweet Pepper Puree. It was another large, tasty and filling, if slightly rich dish, and my only suggestion is to increase the layering of the phyllo so that there is more pastry that does not get absorbed into what should be more "baklava-like."
We rested and contemplated the regular menu deciding we must return for the LOBSTER SHEPHERD's PIE one day soon! Our entrees were amazing, two huge portions with loads of flavors and tastes all around. The CHICKEN TWO WAYS uses Bell & Evans Organic BREAST which is grilled and marinated, while the whole LEG & THIGH is braised witrh DATES, APPLEWOOD SMOKED BACON & OLIVES. The dish comes with thick papardelle-like BUCKWHEAT NOODLES which could have used a bit more separattion, but worked great with the sauce. The PORK OSSO BUCO could become a signature dish here with hints of spice from the Pasilla Chiles all in a RED WINE Sauce with a whole half Braised Green Cabbage and a tasty LEMON-THYME POPOVER, which here is more like a Yorkshire Pudding due to the rich gravy-like wine sauce.
When it comes to Chef Swope, I dream back to her first plate of signature cheesecake (that believe it or not, the Washingtonian trashed, and I immediately canceled my subscription!) at New Heights twenty-something years ago. Today she has tweaked the cake and it is an excellent creamy tasty WHITE CHOCOLATE version with COCONUT CRUST and Berry Sauce. The CORNBREAD & APPLE PUDDING with Fresh Goat Milk CARAMEL and Fresh (Straw) Berries is another treat. The best way to describe this is to think Cornbread Flan with slight hints of apple, although the delicious berries do overpower the apples if included in a bite-no matter.
We both left very full and very happy and it was even more of a miracle that the total bill (without tip) with wine and tax was just $100!
Even on Restaurant Week the amuse comes out and ours was a tiny but tasty GORGONZOLA & WALNUT SHORTBREAD with Housemade FIG JELLY. The cheese was not overpowering at all in the "bread" slice and indeed had just the right amount of flavor. Our amazing $30.08 bottle of TORII MOR Pinot Noir 2006 from the Willamette Valley in Oregon was a perfect match for just about anything on the menu; big full-bodied and loaded with fruit, this is a can't miss wine, especially at this price!
My dining companion (Will needed a stay at home night after a full week of Restaurant Week lunches working at Kinkead's!) and I decided to share our courses, so we wisely ordered different options and shared plates. Our server William was a genius in giving us ideas and options from the large menu.
We started with the LAMB SAUSAGE on PLANTAIN "Tostones" with Goat Cheese and Parsley Pistou. There were three large slices of slightly spicy and very tasty sausage and the small round plantain tostones were soft and a nice foil with the soft runny goat cheese. The parsley pistou was a vibrant green, but parsley always seems to have virtually no taste for me; besides, everything else on the plate was so tasty, it was perfect. The WILD MUSHROOM BAKLAVA is really more of a Napoleon with PIPE DREAMS FRAM GOAT CHEESE, Balsamic Reduction and Roasted Sweet Pepper Puree. It was another large, tasty and filling, if slightly rich dish, and my only suggestion is to increase the layering of the phyllo so that there is more pastry that does not get absorbed into what should be more "baklava-like."
We rested and contemplated the regular menu deciding we must return for the LOBSTER SHEPHERD's PIE one day soon! Our entrees were amazing, two huge portions with loads of flavors and tastes all around. The CHICKEN TWO WAYS uses Bell & Evans Organic BREAST which is grilled and marinated, while the whole LEG & THIGH is braised witrh DATES, APPLEWOOD SMOKED BACON & OLIVES. The dish comes with thick papardelle-like BUCKWHEAT NOODLES which could have used a bit more separattion, but worked great with the sauce. The PORK OSSO BUCO could become a signature dish here with hints of spice from the Pasilla Chiles all in a RED WINE Sauce with a whole half Braised Green Cabbage and a tasty LEMON-THYME POPOVER, which here is more like a Yorkshire Pudding due to the rich gravy-like wine sauce.
When it comes to Chef Swope, I dream back to her first plate of signature cheesecake (that believe it or not, the Washingtonian trashed, and I immediately canceled my subscription!) at New Heights twenty-something years ago. Today she has tweaked the cake and it is an excellent creamy tasty WHITE CHOCOLATE version with COCONUT CRUST and Berry Sauce. The CORNBREAD & APPLE PUDDING with Fresh Goat Milk CARAMEL and Fresh (Straw) Berries is another treat. The best way to describe this is to think Cornbread Flan with slight hints of apple, although the delicious berries do overpower the apples if included in a bite-no matter.
We both left very full and very happy and it was even more of a miracle that the total bill (without tip) with wine and tax was just $100!
Monday, January 14, 2008
Restaurant week begins with a Wondrous WILLOW time
Washington's bi-annual Restaurant Week began yesterday and runs through this Sunday with many fine establishments offering 3 course lunches for $20.08 and 3 course dinners for $30.08.
Last night we took Samuel and joined our friends with their two children at what was one of the best Restaurant Week meals we have ever had. Chefs Tracy O'Grady & Kate Jansen of WILLOW RESTAURANT in Arlington (www.willowva.com where you can see the full menu for Restaurant Week) offered up a plethora of choices and the best meal we have ever had at Willow as well. Restaurant Week is taken very seriously here and it has even been extended for an additional week (they are virtually fully booked this week, but you might squeeze in from Jan 21-27 if you book now; tell them I sent you!). The choices are vast, the portions are huge and the food is superb!
We got the kids started with their food while we sipped on a medium body DOLCETTO d'ALBA "Majano" 2005 from Piero Busso in Piedmont that was actually a bit more intense than a usual Dolcetto. Samuel had what has become one of Chef Jansen's signature dishes, the FLATBREAD Margherita, which is a totally flat and superb pizza with fresh tomato, basil chiffonade, scallions, Fontina & Parmesan cheeses. He wolfed down almost all of this and there were 12 small to huge square pieces on the plate (we all helped him a bit). Samuel said it was just like the pizza in Italy; a big compliment in my book! The CHICKEN FINGERS & Steak Fries were no less impressive and could win a DC's Best Chicken Fingers award hands down (or should I say "fingers down")! The moist white meat had a slightly spiced breading which the kids (and we) all gobbled up!
Our meals started with a selection of appetizers including the excellent soups such as the inventive SPICY COCONUT GINGER LIME Soup with Sweet Potato, Fried Yucca & Chili Oil or the smooth rich satisfying creamy PARNSIP Soup with Toasted Walnuts and swirls of purple beet juice. If you want a salad, head right for the NAPOLEON of BEET & Vermont GOAT CHEESE which has the red chopped beets on a button of mild goat, a selection of purple and gold beets with Candied WALNUTS and Arugula and another super button of slightly aged goat with a minimum punch.
The heavier appetizers included an amazing SEARED SHRIMP with BUTTERNUT SQUASH RAVIOLI, Mushroom and a Light Smoked Tomato Sauce. The pasta was perfect and a huge mushroom filled out the plate along with a tracing of Pancetta for spice and yummy Sunflower Seeds as well. The heaviest starter, but no less brilliant, is the CHESTNUT GNOCCHI with DUCK CONFIT, White beans, Brussels Sprouts and Carrots which are served almost like a mini-stew in a large ramekin.
We moved on to a wonderful full bodied CHIANTI-COLLI FIORENTINI Riserva 2003 from Castello di Poppiano which has a fab smooth finish to boot. It was great with our meats which included the again huge-portioned YOURNEDOS of PEPPER CRUSTED FILET MIGNON (on the Restaurant Week menu!!) with Gouda Potato Tart, Red Wine Mushrooms, to die for Crispy ONION RINGS and Beef Jus. Sam and I tried to gobble the Onion Rings off everyone's plate who had them! The Miniature RACK of PORK was anything but "miniature." Two huge portions were Stuffed with HOUSE MADE SAUSAGE and the magnificent CREAMY SPINACH was served in a tartelette with yummy Roasted Cipollini Onions and some Caramelized onions on the side. The meat was juicy and tender with a wonderful combination of spices from the sausage as well. I must also note the excellent use of the pastry tarts for the spinach and potato by Pastry Chef extraordinaire Kate Jansen.
Speaking of pastry, it was a hard decision when it came to dessert with something for everyone. The children each had a huge scoop of rich Raspberry Sorbet (almost like sherbet) with huge fresh raspberries (Samuel begged for all the extras!). The adults went from Chocoholic Cake to a superb rich and even more filling APPLE FLORENTINE TORTE with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream to my WHITE MOLTEN CHEESECAKE with Raspberry Sauce which was intense but not too large or overpowering. So few chefs want to use white chocolate, and this was a treat as I adore it. Even the adorable wafer that came with it was delish and was embedded with the droplets of dark chocolate, which Samuel adored as well, since we shared it.
Kudos to our server Chris who put up with the three 4+ year olds and I must say I think we all did a pretty amazing job and enjoyed a pretty amazing meal!
Last night we took Samuel and joined our friends with their two children at what was one of the best Restaurant Week meals we have ever had. Chefs Tracy O'Grady & Kate Jansen of WILLOW RESTAURANT in Arlington (www.willowva.com where you can see the full menu for Restaurant Week) offered up a plethora of choices and the best meal we have ever had at Willow as well. Restaurant Week is taken very seriously here and it has even been extended for an additional week (they are virtually fully booked this week, but you might squeeze in from Jan 21-27 if you book now; tell them I sent you!). The choices are vast, the portions are huge and the food is superb!
We got the kids started with their food while we sipped on a medium body DOLCETTO d'ALBA "Majano" 2005 from Piero Busso in Piedmont that was actually a bit more intense than a usual Dolcetto. Samuel had what has become one of Chef Jansen's signature dishes, the FLATBREAD Margherita, which is a totally flat and superb pizza with fresh tomato, basil chiffonade, scallions, Fontina & Parmesan cheeses. He wolfed down almost all of this and there were 12 small to huge square pieces on the plate (we all helped him a bit). Samuel said it was just like the pizza in Italy; a big compliment in my book! The CHICKEN FINGERS & Steak Fries were no less impressive and could win a DC's Best Chicken Fingers award hands down (or should I say "fingers down")! The moist white meat had a slightly spiced breading which the kids (and we) all gobbled up!
Our meals started with a selection of appetizers including the excellent soups such as the inventive SPICY COCONUT GINGER LIME Soup with Sweet Potato, Fried Yucca & Chili Oil or the smooth rich satisfying creamy PARNSIP Soup with Toasted Walnuts and swirls of purple beet juice. If you want a salad, head right for the NAPOLEON of BEET & Vermont GOAT CHEESE which has the red chopped beets on a button of mild goat, a selection of purple and gold beets with Candied WALNUTS and Arugula and another super button of slightly aged goat with a minimum punch.
The heavier appetizers included an amazing SEARED SHRIMP with BUTTERNUT SQUASH RAVIOLI, Mushroom and a Light Smoked Tomato Sauce. The pasta was perfect and a huge mushroom filled out the plate along with a tracing of Pancetta for spice and yummy Sunflower Seeds as well. The heaviest starter, but no less brilliant, is the CHESTNUT GNOCCHI with DUCK CONFIT, White beans, Brussels Sprouts and Carrots which are served almost like a mini-stew in a large ramekin.
We moved on to a wonderful full bodied CHIANTI-COLLI FIORENTINI Riserva 2003 from Castello di Poppiano which has a fab smooth finish to boot. It was great with our meats which included the again huge-portioned YOURNEDOS of PEPPER CRUSTED FILET MIGNON (on the Restaurant Week menu!!) with Gouda Potato Tart, Red Wine Mushrooms, to die for Crispy ONION RINGS and Beef Jus. Sam and I tried to gobble the Onion Rings off everyone's plate who had them! The Miniature RACK of PORK was anything but "miniature." Two huge portions were Stuffed with HOUSE MADE SAUSAGE and the magnificent CREAMY SPINACH was served in a tartelette with yummy Roasted Cipollini Onions and some Caramelized onions on the side. The meat was juicy and tender with a wonderful combination of spices from the sausage as well. I must also note the excellent use of the pastry tarts for the spinach and potato by Pastry Chef extraordinaire Kate Jansen.
Speaking of pastry, it was a hard decision when it came to dessert with something for everyone. The children each had a huge scoop of rich Raspberry Sorbet (almost like sherbet) with huge fresh raspberries (Samuel begged for all the extras!). The adults went from Chocoholic Cake to a superb rich and even more filling APPLE FLORENTINE TORTE with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream to my WHITE MOLTEN CHEESECAKE with Raspberry Sauce which was intense but not too large or overpowering. So few chefs want to use white chocolate, and this was a treat as I adore it. Even the adorable wafer that came with it was delish and was embedded with the droplets of dark chocolate, which Samuel adored as well, since we shared it.
Kudos to our server Chris who put up with the three 4+ year olds and I must say I think we all did a pretty amazing job and enjoyed a pretty amazing meal!
Sunday, January 06, 2008
Cafe Un Deux Trois - Tasty but tripping; super soup at HALE & HEARTY
Yesterday I grabbed lunch at one of my favorite Times Square spots, Cafe Un Deux Trois (123 W 44th St) and as always had a pretty good meal.
Upon sitting down, I had to motion several times for my server to come over and take my order; he apparently thought I was waiting for someone else to join me (even though the chair opposite had my briefcase and coat piled on it).
I chose the tasty ONION SOUP GRATINEE which came oozing with cheese on top and needed only a dash of salt and pepper. I moved on to one of their better dishes the STEAK TARTARE and FRITES and this time decided to try the house mustard on my frites; it was heavenly. It was a sort of English-Chinese spicy yellow mustard and I asked the server what brand it was, but he never did get back to me.
I enjoyed a glass of BROUILLY Les Saburins 2005 from Louis Latour and both Brouilly and Beaujolais were misspelled on the menu (I guess they don't have an French employees who proofread).
When I asked for coffee and a refill on my water, I got the coffee, but with no sugar and had to ask for that and again for the water. As this was occuring, a small hubbub was brewing with four ladies at the next table. I saw one of them show their waiter a small plastic object that had been imbedded in her bread; it was about 1-1/2 inches long. He apologized and walked away. I was shocked that the manager was not there in seconds with profuse apologies. After several minutes the waiter returned to explain it was a small plastic Jesus doll and is part of the Three Kings Day tradition of the Latino staff to put this in the bread; apparently an error had occurred and one made it to the bread served with this woman's salad! I was still in shock that it took several more minutes for a headwaiter (the manager never did come) to apologize and finally after much coaxing offer the $10 salad for free. None of these women had even purchased the $20 prix fixe brunch dishes which comes with a drink (which is, by the way, a great deal here).
On my way out (I must mention I had to beg thrice to get my charge card run through so I could make my play on time!), the hostess (was she the manager?) asked how everything was, and I said, "fine, except for the failure at the next table." She told me thrice that it had been taken care of, even though after speaking with these nice women, I could not help feel they had not been treated properly. I hope the doll brings them better luck in the New Year.
A final note about the wonderful soups and sandwiches I have been munching on at NYC's chain HALE & HEARTY Soups (www.haleandhearty.com) which are located throughout the city and offer up some wonderful soups. Friday I had SENEGALESE CHICKEN SOUP which was a rich spicy thick tomato-based soup loaded with chicken and sprinkled with crushed peanuts. They have great salad/soup or sandwich/soup combos as well!
Upon sitting down, I had to motion several times for my server to come over and take my order; he apparently thought I was waiting for someone else to join me (even though the chair opposite had my briefcase and coat piled on it).
I chose the tasty ONION SOUP GRATINEE which came oozing with cheese on top and needed only a dash of salt and pepper. I moved on to one of their better dishes the STEAK TARTARE and FRITES and this time decided to try the house mustard on my frites; it was heavenly. It was a sort of English-Chinese spicy yellow mustard and I asked the server what brand it was, but he never did get back to me.
I enjoyed a glass of BROUILLY Les Saburins 2005 from Louis Latour and both Brouilly and Beaujolais were misspelled on the menu (I guess they don't have an French employees who proofread).
When I asked for coffee and a refill on my water, I got the coffee, but with no sugar and had to ask for that and again for the water. As this was occuring, a small hubbub was brewing with four ladies at the next table. I saw one of them show their waiter a small plastic object that had been imbedded in her bread; it was about 1-1/2 inches long. He apologized and walked away. I was shocked that the manager was not there in seconds with profuse apologies. After several minutes the waiter returned to explain it was a small plastic Jesus doll and is part of the Three Kings Day tradition of the Latino staff to put this in the bread; apparently an error had occurred and one made it to the bread served with this woman's salad! I was still in shock that it took several more minutes for a headwaiter (the manager never did come) to apologize and finally after much coaxing offer the $10 salad for free. None of these women had even purchased the $20 prix fixe brunch dishes which comes with a drink (which is, by the way, a great deal here).
On my way out (I must mention I had to beg thrice to get my charge card run through so I could make my play on time!), the hostess (was she the manager?) asked how everything was, and I said, "fine, except for the failure at the next table." She told me thrice that it had been taken care of, even though after speaking with these nice women, I could not help feel they had not been treated properly. I hope the doll brings them better luck in the New Year.
A final note about the wonderful soups and sandwiches I have been munching on at NYC's chain HALE & HEARTY Soups (www.haleandhearty.com) which are located throughout the city and offer up some wonderful soups. Friday I had SENEGALESE CHICKEN SOUP which was a rich spicy thick tomato-based soup loaded with chicken and sprinkled with crushed peanuts. They have great salad/soup or sandwich/soup combos as well!
Saturday, January 05, 2008
seek out CITRUS on NYC's Upper West Side
Saturday night I was treated to a wonderful dinner at CITRUS on the Upper West Side (www.citrusnyc.com at 320 Amsterdam Ave-at 75th St) by two dear friends of ours who live in the city. The choice was mine as I had been to Citrus almost two years ago with friends who live nearby for drinks and hor's d'oevres and really liked it; now I really LOVE it!
We started with martinis and they are nice sized tasty ones, but next time I will steer clear of the Prickly Pear as it is a bit too sweet with Prickly Pear Puree and Triple Sec on top of the Absolute Pears. We had these with some of the best SPICED EDAMAME ever made with three peppercorns, ancho chile and sea salt, which keeps you drinking, of course! Our other shared appetizer was the CHILE LIME SHRIMP CORN & QUESO FUNDIDO QUESADILLA which is a huge portion of six tasty triangles or shrimp and cheese with sides of tasty Guacamole and excellent PICO de GALLO, made of more fresh tomatoes than usual, which I really liked.
A plate of multi-colored chips always come with an intense-smokey tomato salsa that we could have kept eating for days as well! The cuisine here is fusion and I could not decide between pasta (Duck Pappardelle) or the Sushi Combo special, but we all ordered the latter which consisted of several slices each of tender tasty sashimi:
Bahamian Big Eye Tuna (always a favorite)
Asian Yellowtail Sashimi
and Aquanor Natural Farm Raised Salmon Sashimi which was the best salmon sashimi I have ever had anywhere!
A large timbale of RAINBOW TARTARE of spicy Bahamian Big Eye TUNA was topped with Wasabi Tobiko and had a Mango-Yuzu drizzle on the plate for added flavor. There was an 8-piece roll of MANGO & AVOCADO with the Spicy Bahamian Big Eye Tuna as well.
I must note that the ginger was so pale and white, but that it had less punch than usual and was actually better than most I have had in the past.
We asked about the wines and the manager Walter immediately came over and said he recommended a red with the sushi, but he would bring three for us to taste. We tasted the La MISION Sauvignon Blanc from Chile which was quite mild lacking either citrus or grass, the MONKEY BAY Chardonnay from New Zealand which was a bit of a puzzle to me, and decided on Walter's choice the excellent smooth and medium bodied MALBEC 2005 from Fabre Montmayou in Argentina. It was perfect with the sushi!
I can't fail to mention that our server Lydia was superb and constantly checked on us no matter how busy she was or how full the place got; it was literally heaving when we left at 730pm! Dessert was an array of options and they were all excellent, but I think top honors go to the STRAWBERRY CHEESECAKE with Caramel Sauce. I also loved the CINNAMON TACO Chips which reminded me of churros. The CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE is dense and rich with a slightly molten center and really for dark chocoholics, and the APPLE TART is made with RICOTTA in the Italian style. Ciao Bella DATE & WALNUT Ice Cream was an interesting and very delish flavor I had never heard of or even thought of prior to this wonderful meal!
I think I have found a new spot on the Upper West side when the time allows the stroll only 10 blocks north of Lincoln Center!
We started with martinis and they are nice sized tasty ones, but next time I will steer clear of the Prickly Pear as it is a bit too sweet with Prickly Pear Puree and Triple Sec on top of the Absolute Pears. We had these with some of the best SPICED EDAMAME ever made with three peppercorns, ancho chile and sea salt, which keeps you drinking, of course! Our other shared appetizer was the CHILE LIME SHRIMP CORN & QUESO FUNDIDO QUESADILLA which is a huge portion of six tasty triangles or shrimp and cheese with sides of tasty Guacamole and excellent PICO de GALLO, made of more fresh tomatoes than usual, which I really liked.
A plate of multi-colored chips always come with an intense-smokey tomato salsa that we could have kept eating for days as well! The cuisine here is fusion and I could not decide between pasta (Duck Pappardelle) or the Sushi Combo special, but we all ordered the latter which consisted of several slices each of tender tasty sashimi:
Bahamian Big Eye Tuna (always a favorite)
Asian Yellowtail Sashimi
and Aquanor Natural Farm Raised Salmon Sashimi which was the best salmon sashimi I have ever had anywhere!
A large timbale of RAINBOW TARTARE of spicy Bahamian Big Eye TUNA was topped with Wasabi Tobiko and had a Mango-Yuzu drizzle on the plate for added flavor. There was an 8-piece roll of MANGO & AVOCADO with the Spicy Bahamian Big Eye Tuna as well.
I must note that the ginger was so pale and white, but that it had less punch than usual and was actually better than most I have had in the past.
We asked about the wines and the manager Walter immediately came over and said he recommended a red with the sushi, but he would bring three for us to taste. We tasted the La MISION Sauvignon Blanc from Chile which was quite mild lacking either citrus or grass, the MONKEY BAY Chardonnay from New Zealand which was a bit of a puzzle to me, and decided on Walter's choice the excellent smooth and medium bodied MALBEC 2005 from Fabre Montmayou in Argentina. It was perfect with the sushi!
I can't fail to mention that our server Lydia was superb and constantly checked on us no matter how busy she was or how full the place got; it was literally heaving when we left at 730pm! Dessert was an array of options and they were all excellent, but I think top honors go to the STRAWBERRY CHEESECAKE with Caramel Sauce. I also loved the CINNAMON TACO Chips which reminded me of churros. The CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE is dense and rich with a slightly molten center and really for dark chocoholics, and the APPLE TART is made with RICOTTA in the Italian style. Ciao Bella DATE & WALNUT Ice Cream was an interesting and very delish flavor I had never heard of or even thought of prior to this wonderful meal!
I think I have found a new spot on the Upper West side when the time allows the stroll only 10 blocks north of Lincoln Center!
Monday, December 31, 2007
NewYear's Eve Dining is delicious at DINO's with Samuel
Upon receiving an email last month for the $75 multi-course tasting (for seating prior to 630pm) we decided this would be the perfect place as Samuel always loves the pasta there and indeed was very happy with his SPAGHETTI with Tomato Sauce and ONE GIANT MEATBALL. He was able to slosh on as much parmesan as he liked and enjoyed his new addition, a ginger ale. At the same time, we got to pig-out and celebrate New Year's Eve, if a bit early.
The tasting offered a number of selections but all started with a glass of POSECCO CIMA de CONEGLIANO and a plate of TRIS di CAVIALE or three American caviars (Arctic Char, Hackleback and Smoked Steelhead) with garnish.
The atmosphere was one of a real neighborhood spot with a number of young kids and some older diners as well in the "early seating." Will chose to start with the TORTA di FUNGHI which was a crunchy tart of wild mushroom, burdock root & salsify with truffled potato and leek sauce; it was his least favorite part of the meal. My PICCIONE was a tasty chunk of Herb Roasted Breast of Squab with a superb Confit of LEEKS & Natural Pan Juices.
Each course came with a selection of wines for a surcharge. There was the "Really Good" option of 4-3 ounce pours for $40, or the "Incredible" which was $81. The former was quite good, while the latter was superb, but perhaps a bit high on the price range until we hit the Barolo. No matter --it was New Year's Eve and all the wine was beyond enjoyable. We shared one selection of each category so we could taste them all. This course came with a DE CONCILIIS AGLIANICO di PAESTUM 2005 and an ANTICO BROILO SCHIOPPETTINO 2004.
The next course was superb across the board with Will opting for the PAPPARDELLE all'ARAGOSTA, our favorite ribbon pasta with Lobster, Cauliflower and Tarragon Tomato Sauce. My BRASATO di MANZO "WAGYU" was an excellent Australian Braised Wagyu Short Rib Braised in a luscious PINOT NOIR Sauce on Creamy Polenta with Marrow Butter...sheer heaven and I mopped up every last drop of the sauce. The wines were a wonderful HOFSTATTER "Steinraffler" LAGREIN 1999 from Alto Adige that I adored and a DE CONCILIIS "Si Kube" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005.
We asked for a break and enjoyed twp extra tastes of wines: MESSAPICUS 2004 from COPERTINO in Puglia made from Negroamaro, Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Malvasia which had a slight Rhone blend flavor and a RONCODEL GNEMIZ "Jacopo" 2004 which is Cabernet, Merlot & Schippettino that we liked even more.
Sam was on his berries and vanilla gelato by now and we enjoyed the excellent entrees with Will have the COSTOLETTE di CINGHIALE, a rack of three wild boar ribs, cave-aged cheddar & potato gratin and juniper jus. My PETTO d'ANATRA was two huge slices of LAVENDER-HONEY Glazed DUCK Breast with a slightly too sweet for me SWEET POTATO MASCARPONE Puree. The wines were a DEFORVILLE "Vignetto Loreto" 2003 Barbaresco and that unreal GIUSEPPI MASCARELLO "Monprivato" 2000 BAROLO.
Desserts came from a choice of a long list and Will could not resist the TIRAMISU laced with Kahlua, Frangelico & Irish Cream. He asked Dean (the owner) if the recipe was new and indeed Chef STEPHAN BOILLON had made changes which improved on the previous recipe multi-fold. I opted for the trio of cheeses and basked in some real treats: CORA ROBIOLA "La Rosa" a cherry leaf wrapped cow,sheep & goat combo robiola from Cuneo) that was perfect to start.
GUFFANTI CASTELMAGNO was a raw milk that was super crumbly and went wonderfully with the dried berry mostardo on the side. The CORA BLU di BACCO was a very mild blue from Cuneo that was superb with the COLUTTA PICOLIT 2004 "sauternes-like" dessert wine from the "Incredible list" while the POPPIANO "Il Cortile" 1999 Vin Santo form the "really good" side may have been one of the best vin santos I have had in a long time!
We headed out after 2-1/2 hours during all of which Samuel was an angel and then went on to a wonderful (if only for an hour) New Year's Eve party near our home.
Another great dining night at Dino's!
The tasting offered a number of selections but all started with a glass of POSECCO CIMA de CONEGLIANO and a plate of TRIS di CAVIALE or three American caviars (Arctic Char, Hackleback and Smoked Steelhead) with garnish.
The atmosphere was one of a real neighborhood spot with a number of young kids and some older diners as well in the "early seating." Will chose to start with the TORTA di FUNGHI which was a crunchy tart of wild mushroom, burdock root & salsify with truffled potato and leek sauce; it was his least favorite part of the meal. My PICCIONE was a tasty chunk of Herb Roasted Breast of Squab with a superb Confit of LEEKS & Natural Pan Juices.
Each course came with a selection of wines for a surcharge. There was the "Really Good" option of 4-3 ounce pours for $40, or the "Incredible" which was $81. The former was quite good, while the latter was superb, but perhaps a bit high on the price range until we hit the Barolo. No matter --it was New Year's Eve and all the wine was beyond enjoyable. We shared one selection of each category so we could taste them all. This course came with a DE CONCILIIS AGLIANICO di PAESTUM 2005 and an ANTICO BROILO SCHIOPPETTINO 2004.
The next course was superb across the board with Will opting for the PAPPARDELLE all'ARAGOSTA, our favorite ribbon pasta with Lobster, Cauliflower and Tarragon Tomato Sauce. My BRASATO di MANZO "WAGYU" was an excellent Australian Braised Wagyu Short Rib Braised in a luscious PINOT NOIR Sauce on Creamy Polenta with Marrow Butter...sheer heaven and I mopped up every last drop of the sauce. The wines were a wonderful HOFSTATTER "Steinraffler" LAGREIN 1999 from Alto Adige that I adored and a DE CONCILIIS "Si Kube" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005.
We asked for a break and enjoyed twp extra tastes of wines: MESSAPICUS 2004 from COPERTINO in Puglia made from Negroamaro, Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Malvasia which had a slight Rhone blend flavor and a RONCODEL GNEMIZ "Jacopo" 2004 which is Cabernet, Merlot & Schippettino that we liked even more.
Sam was on his berries and vanilla gelato by now and we enjoyed the excellent entrees with Will have the COSTOLETTE di CINGHIALE, a rack of three wild boar ribs, cave-aged cheddar & potato gratin and juniper jus. My PETTO d'ANATRA was two huge slices of LAVENDER-HONEY Glazed DUCK Breast with a slightly too sweet for me SWEET POTATO MASCARPONE Puree. The wines were a DEFORVILLE "Vignetto Loreto" 2003 Barbaresco and that unreal GIUSEPPI MASCARELLO "Monprivato" 2000 BAROLO.
Desserts came from a choice of a long list and Will could not resist the TIRAMISU laced with Kahlua, Frangelico & Irish Cream. He asked Dean (the owner) if the recipe was new and indeed Chef STEPHAN BOILLON had made changes which improved on the previous recipe multi-fold. I opted for the trio of cheeses and basked in some real treats: CORA ROBIOLA "La Rosa" a cherry leaf wrapped cow,sheep & goat combo robiola from Cuneo) that was perfect to start.
GUFFANTI CASTELMAGNO was a raw milk that was super crumbly and went wonderfully with the dried berry mostardo on the side. The CORA BLU di BACCO was a very mild blue from Cuneo that was superb with the COLUTTA PICOLIT 2004 "sauternes-like" dessert wine from the "Incredible list" while the POPPIANO "Il Cortile" 1999 Vin Santo form the "really good" side may have been one of the best vin santos I have had in a long time!
We headed out after 2-1/2 hours during all of which Samuel was an angel and then went on to a wonderful (if only for an hour) New Year's Eve party near our home.
Another great dining night at Dino's!
Friday, December 28, 2007
Norman's novel cuisine raises the Ritz in Orlando, FL
We ended our two week vacation to Central America (cruise) and Florida at our hotel's signature restaurant, and one of the top rated restaurant's in the Orlando area, NORMAN's at the Ritz-Carlton Grande Lakes (www.normans.com). Both Will and I had anticipated this evening as we have had so many wonderful dining experiences at Chef Norman Aiken's first signature spot in Coral Gables (Miami) and this was his second restaurant, now open almost 4 years. Indeed, he recently opened a third spot in Key West, where he is apparently spending the bulk of his time.
At the Ritz in Orlando, Chef Clay Miller is in charge, and as he made his rounds through the intimate, warm and exclusive restaurant, we discovered that he had worked for an old acquaintance of mine, Chef Gunther Seeger (who is now Atlanta based and quite well known), amongst many others such as stint under our friend Eric Zieboldt now at CityZen in DC, when they were at the French Laundry together. His credits are pedigree and his inventiveness shows, as you shall see if you read on.
We arrived in the dining room having been told that shorts, jeans and sandals are not allowed, and jackets are requested (though not required). The gentleman in front of us was a "regular" of some sorts and insisted on a table for two even though he was in shorts, flip-flops and a polo shirt. When we got to the reception desk, I said that I hope he was being seated in the men's rooms with such an outifit! The hostess said that he had been there before (is this an excuse?) and he was seated on a banquette with tablecloth covering his exposed legs and feet. We, on the other hand, looking so elegant, were seated at a table with a view of the whole room, outside and a glance through to the open kitchen as well.
The dining room is a large octagonal shape with red and beige marble inlaid flooring (reeking of Ritz-Carlton, but quite nice I must say). The center of the room had a raised dark wood vaulted octagonal dome with four vertical wine cabinets setting off a table at the center. We were greeted by manager Pietro who spoke of Italy, the wine, and the food with great love. Speaking of wine, super kudos to the wine list with dozens of wines available by the glass, 250ml (1/3 bottle) and 500ml (2/3 bottle) as well as many half bottles and a wide variety of wines to boot.
We started with the NORMAN's Cuvee IRON HORSE BRUT 1998 from Sonoma Green Valley which was slightly yeasty and refreshing (it had been a sunny 83 degree day at the pool relaxing before our return home today). We were also glad to see Pellegrino on the water list as it had seemed that only that overly-gassy awful Perrier was available at so many Disney and central Florida spots!
We looked over the menu, but we both knew full well what we had come for - THE TASTING MENU, which our wonderful server Frank explained was available at 4 to 7 courses for approximately $20/course; guess what we chose? RIGHT- the whole 7-course shebang, and we left so full, we didn't need a bite today (even though we did eat). We mentioned to Frank that several items on the menu excited us and he had them all included in the tasting, which was really pretty fabulous save for one dish.
Course #1 was the CROQUETAS de BACALAO with MOJO MAYO dip which were rich, creamy and not amazingly more fantastic than those we had previously on this trip due to the chilis inside, the fab mayo, even if a bit salty (well, they are made from salted cod!). The wine was one we have always liked, but not had in some time as the WAIRAU RIVER SAUVIGNON BLANC from New Zealand has gone up a lot in price over the years, At Norman's it is a whopping $11/glass, but also available at $18 for 1/3 bottle, $36 for 2/3 bottle or $52 for the whole bottle (to give an example). It is an intense grapefruit citrus wine and worked perfectly with the salt, cod, richness and spice. Will liked dipping the excellent puffy and salty rolls (almost like sopapillas) in the mayo as well!
Course #2 was a highlight: CRISPY VANILLA BRAISED PORK BELLY with Fontina CHESTNUT Ravioli, Black Olive, SAFFRON pickled QUINCE & MANCHEGO FROTH. The meat was fabulous and I commented how nice it was to have pork belly with about 80% meat rather than 80% FAT! The wine pairing was Pietro's favorite rose, MAS DE LA DAME 2006 Les Baux de Provence, which while a nice wine, I felt was not quite right for this rich dish. Will thought the acidity of the wine was refreshing for the palate with the dish, while I would have liked a medium red a bit more.
At this point, as a father of a 4-1/2 year old I have to ask a question that might seem odd. While at Disneyworld the day before there were plenty of urinals for the kids (at low level) with often only one or NO sinks lower than the others. In the Ritz-Carlton restrooms, the same applied. In a place, where kids abound, why do bathrooms not have low sinks so we don't have to haul our kids up to wash their hands? Stepladders would be a nice alternative, and yesterday afternoon, I turned over a wastebasket, so I didn't have to hold Samuel up to wash his hands at the poolside men's rooms. Indeed, the decor of the Ritz bathroom closest to Norman's needs severe rethinking. It has the standard Ritz elegance with marbled floors and walls, but above this the wallpaper is so busy that it competes with the marble and honestly made me a bit queasy!
Back in the dining room, course number 3 was entitled "FIRE & ICE" New York State FOIE GRAS served cold (torchon), having been grilled and rolled and sprinkled with allspice and a bit to much (though I love it) salt. The opposite side of the dish was hot CARAMEL POACHED and was simply to die for--being the perfect piece of foie gras and so wonderfully prepared. On the side was KUMQUAT JAM and a slice of warm gingerbread as well as a slice of tasty duck prosciutto with a super smokey taste. The wine was a perfect CHATEAU RABAUD-PROMIS 2003 SAUTERNES Premiere Cru that I would be happy to drink with foie gras
any day.
Next came the ROASTED FLORIDA GULF POMPANO (we needed SOMETHING local) with Brussel Sprouts & Pork Cheek Hash, A "Ham Jam," Red Wine Bacon Jus & Bacon Tuille. This was another superb combination, if a bit overloaded with to many things and flavors. It sat on a Sweet Potato Puree with a piece of unneeded Pork Cheek as the fish was superb. A PRIORAT 2003 FONT DE LA FIGUERA was a big strong red wine that went well with the heavy flavors, but still needs a bit more time in the bottle.
The fifth course was the one that left us a bit confused: TAMARIND-SOY GLAZED SWEETBREADS were beautifully served with a paintbrush slash of tamarind across the plate and a magnificent CARAMELIZED CAULIFLOWER & CAULIFLOWER PUREE(really flan). The way to cloyingly sweet sweetbreads sat atop a crispy chickpea pancake that was not enough to tone done the tamarinds super sweetness; an accompanying almond tuille was almost rubbery. Luckily, we were getting quite full and di not mind skipping a bite here or there. The excellent LADERA 2004 NAPA CAB was a great pairing and along with the cauliflower did help a bit to tone
down the dish's sweetness.
CHEESE was a welcome sight as we had not had a good piece of cheese on this entire trip. It was served with a strawberry/balsamic.black pepper jam (quite tasty), nuts and breads: The mildest were the TOMME de SAVOIE and the P'TITE BASQUE from France with the FLEUR de MAQUIS Sheep following close behind with its rosemary crust. MONTBRIAC was right in there making our choice seem very mild but the PONT L'EVEQUE was a dream, even if Will did say it had the stench of Old Victorian urine (does anyone know what that smells like?). The strongest was the almost blue COACH FARM PYRAMIDES Goat with Green Peppercorn.
We specifically asked for red wine and a DUORO Portuguese DUAS QUINTAS 2000 Ramos Pinto came made from Touriga Nacional and it was a great wine for the final glass before moving to sweet.
The sweet wines were two not too impressive ones. For me a sparkling red BRACHETTO d'ACQUA to accompany MADAGASCAR VANILLA BEAN PANNA COTTA with Wild Mountain HUCKLEBERRY Puree and ALLSPICE CRUMBLE (really a crumbly cake underneath the panna cotta) which was a sensational dessert. Will opted for a super RHUM Ice Cream and okay Cocount Sorbet with a MARCARINI 2003 Moscato d'Asti which also was not a big hit; as you know we prefer sweet thick dessert wines.
Needless to say, we left full and do hope to return to Norman's in Miami, Key West or Orlando again soon, even with the way too sweet sweetbreads!
At the Ritz in Orlando, Chef Clay Miller is in charge, and as he made his rounds through the intimate, warm and exclusive restaurant, we discovered that he had worked for an old acquaintance of mine, Chef Gunther Seeger (who is now Atlanta based and quite well known), amongst many others such as stint under our friend Eric Zieboldt now at CityZen in DC, when they were at the French Laundry together. His credits are pedigree and his inventiveness shows, as you shall see if you read on.
We arrived in the dining room having been told that shorts, jeans and sandals are not allowed, and jackets are requested (though not required). The gentleman in front of us was a "regular" of some sorts and insisted on a table for two even though he was in shorts, flip-flops and a polo shirt. When we got to the reception desk, I said that I hope he was being seated in the men's rooms with such an outifit! The hostess said that he had been there before (is this an excuse?) and he was seated on a banquette with tablecloth covering his exposed legs and feet. We, on the other hand, looking so elegant, were seated at a table with a view of the whole room, outside and a glance through to the open kitchen as well.
The dining room is a large octagonal shape with red and beige marble inlaid flooring (reeking of Ritz-Carlton, but quite nice I must say). The center of the room had a raised dark wood vaulted octagonal dome with four vertical wine cabinets setting off a table at the center. We were greeted by manager Pietro who spoke of Italy, the wine, and the food with great love. Speaking of wine, super kudos to the wine list with dozens of wines available by the glass, 250ml (1/3 bottle) and 500ml (2/3 bottle) as well as many half bottles and a wide variety of wines to boot.
We started with the NORMAN's Cuvee IRON HORSE BRUT 1998 from Sonoma Green Valley which was slightly yeasty and refreshing (it had been a sunny 83 degree day at the pool relaxing before our return home today). We were also glad to see Pellegrino on the water list as it had seemed that only that overly-gassy awful Perrier was available at so many Disney and central Florida spots!
We looked over the menu, but we both knew full well what we had come for - THE TASTING MENU, which our wonderful server Frank explained was available at 4 to 7 courses for approximately $20/course; guess what we chose? RIGHT- the whole 7-course shebang, and we left so full, we didn't need a bite today (even though we did eat). We mentioned to Frank that several items on the menu excited us and he had them all included in the tasting, which was really pretty fabulous save for one dish.
Course #1 was the CROQUETAS de BACALAO with MOJO MAYO dip which were rich, creamy and not amazingly more fantastic than those we had previously on this trip due to the chilis inside, the fab mayo, even if a bit salty (well, they are made from salted cod!). The wine was one we have always liked, but not had in some time as the WAIRAU RIVER SAUVIGNON BLANC from New Zealand has gone up a lot in price over the years, At Norman's it is a whopping $11/glass, but also available at $18 for 1/3 bottle, $36 for 2/3 bottle or $52 for the whole bottle (to give an example). It is an intense grapefruit citrus wine and worked perfectly with the salt, cod, richness and spice. Will liked dipping the excellent puffy and salty rolls (almost like sopapillas) in the mayo as well!
Course #2 was a highlight: CRISPY VANILLA BRAISED PORK BELLY with Fontina CHESTNUT Ravioli, Black Olive, SAFFRON pickled QUINCE & MANCHEGO FROTH. The meat was fabulous and I commented how nice it was to have pork belly with about 80% meat rather than 80% FAT! The wine pairing was Pietro's favorite rose, MAS DE LA DAME 2006 Les Baux de Provence, which while a nice wine, I felt was not quite right for this rich dish. Will thought the acidity of the wine was refreshing for the palate with the dish, while I would have liked a medium red a bit more.
At this point, as a father of a 4-1/2 year old I have to ask a question that might seem odd. While at Disneyworld the day before there were plenty of urinals for the kids (at low level) with often only one or NO sinks lower than the others. In the Ritz-Carlton restrooms, the same applied. In a place, where kids abound, why do bathrooms not have low sinks so we don't have to haul our kids up to wash their hands? Stepladders would be a nice alternative, and yesterday afternoon, I turned over a wastebasket, so I didn't have to hold Samuel up to wash his hands at the poolside men's rooms. Indeed, the decor of the Ritz bathroom closest to Norman's needs severe rethinking. It has the standard Ritz elegance with marbled floors and walls, but above this the wallpaper is so busy that it competes with the marble and honestly made me a bit queasy!
Back in the dining room, course number 3 was entitled "FIRE & ICE" New York State FOIE GRAS served cold (torchon), having been grilled and rolled and sprinkled with allspice and a bit to much (though I love it) salt. The opposite side of the dish was hot CARAMEL POACHED and was simply to die for--being the perfect piece of foie gras and so wonderfully prepared. On the side was KUMQUAT JAM and a slice of warm gingerbread as well as a slice of tasty duck prosciutto with a super smokey taste. The wine was a perfect CHATEAU RABAUD-PROMIS 2003 SAUTERNES Premiere Cru that I would be happy to drink with foie gras
any day.
Next came the ROASTED FLORIDA GULF POMPANO (we needed SOMETHING local) with Brussel Sprouts & Pork Cheek Hash, A "Ham Jam," Red Wine Bacon Jus & Bacon Tuille. This was another superb combination, if a bit overloaded with to many things and flavors. It sat on a Sweet Potato Puree with a piece of unneeded Pork Cheek as the fish was superb. A PRIORAT 2003 FONT DE LA FIGUERA was a big strong red wine that went well with the heavy flavors, but still needs a bit more time in the bottle.
The fifth course was the one that left us a bit confused: TAMARIND-SOY GLAZED SWEETBREADS were beautifully served with a paintbrush slash of tamarind across the plate and a magnificent CARAMELIZED CAULIFLOWER & CAULIFLOWER PUREE(really flan). The way to cloyingly sweet sweetbreads sat atop a crispy chickpea pancake that was not enough to tone done the tamarinds super sweetness; an accompanying almond tuille was almost rubbery. Luckily, we were getting quite full and di not mind skipping a bite here or there. The excellent LADERA 2004 NAPA CAB was a great pairing and along with the cauliflower did help a bit to tone
down the dish's sweetness.
CHEESE was a welcome sight as we had not had a good piece of cheese on this entire trip. It was served with a strawberry/balsamic.black pepper jam (quite tasty), nuts and breads: The mildest were the TOMME de SAVOIE and the P'TITE BASQUE from France with the FLEUR de MAQUIS Sheep following close behind with its rosemary crust. MONTBRIAC was right in there making our choice seem very mild but the PONT L'EVEQUE was a dream, even if Will did say it had the stench of Old Victorian urine (does anyone know what that smells like?). The strongest was the almost blue COACH FARM PYRAMIDES Goat with Green Peppercorn.
We specifically asked for red wine and a DUORO Portuguese DUAS QUINTAS 2000 Ramos Pinto came made from Touriga Nacional and it was a great wine for the final glass before moving to sweet.
The sweet wines were two not too impressive ones. For me a sparkling red BRACHETTO d'ACQUA to accompany MADAGASCAR VANILLA BEAN PANNA COTTA with Wild Mountain HUCKLEBERRY Puree and ALLSPICE CRUMBLE (really a crumbly cake underneath the panna cotta) which was a sensational dessert. Will opted for a super RHUM Ice Cream and okay Cocount Sorbet with a MARCARINI 2003 Moscato d'Asti which also was not a big hit; as you know we prefer sweet thick dessert wines.
Needless to say, we left full and do hope to return to Norman's in Miami, Key West or Orlando again soon, even with the way too sweet sweetbreads!
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Disney dining-the Crystal Palace with Winnie the Pooh/Terrific TAQUITOS JALISCO (Orlando,FL)
Today we took Samuel to the Magic Kingdom at Walt Disney World here in Orlando, FL and we pre-reserved the Winnie the Pooh & Friends Character lunch at the Crystal Palace which is a $24 buffet (1/2 price for kids) which was actually pretty good. While Sam adored being photographed and filmed with his friends Tigger & Pooh and eating the pizza, green beans, chicken nuggets, tomato salad and soft serve ice cream, we thought the meats and fish were excellent, especially the FLANK STEAK. The salads were superb and I thought the Zinfandel dressing was a treat.
Tonight we dined at TAQUITOS JALISCO (a real local spot at 2419 S Hiawassee Rd) which serves tradiitona Tex-Mex food and even had a xylophone player who was quite good. While Sam enjoyed soft chicken tacos, rice and tomato salad (he skipped the beans), we sipped our large superb $5 huge Margaritas and munched the yummy chips and medium mediocre salsa.
Will's entree was a PLATA de GUADALAJARA which had taco, enchilada and a great chile relleno and always with refried beans and rice; a side of guacamole was cilnaro intense and very nice, My PLATA MEXICANA was a bit smaller with a beef and chicken taco (the latter was much tastier) and a yummy fried chicken Flauta.
We headed home as it had been a long day and tomorrow look forward to dining here at the Ritz-Carlton at NORMAN'S!
Tonight we dined at TAQUITOS JALISCO (a real local spot at 2419 S Hiawassee Rd) which serves tradiitona Tex-Mex food and even had a xylophone player who was quite good. While Sam enjoyed soft chicken tacos, rice and tomato salad (he skipped the beans), we sipped our large superb $5 huge Margaritas and munched the yummy chips and medium mediocre salsa.
Will's entree was a PLATA de GUADALAJARA which had taco, enchilada and a great chile relleno and always with refried beans and rice; a side of guacamole was cilnaro intense and very nice, My PLATA MEXICANA was a bit smaller with a beef and chicken taco (the latter was much tastier) and a yummy fried chicken Flauta.
We headed home as it had been a long day and tomorrow look forward to dining here at the Ritz-Carlton at NORMAN'S!
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
THAI THANI takes Thai food serious...Orlando
We opted to have dinner just down the block from our hotel (The Ritz-Carlton, of course) on International Drive across from SeaWorld at THAI THANI (Also with locations in Tampa & Clearwater) and were mildly surprised by the warm excellent (and not at all tacky) Thai decor...I loved the mini replica of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok that matched by bicentennial coin for the city of the same name that I purchased years ago. At 6pm, the place was pretty empty, when we left at 730pm, there were lines and folks seated at the entry.
Samuel enjoyed several appetizers as his main course: THAI THANI ANGLE WINGS (he said they were called so because they had an angle) stuffed with PORK, Water Chestnut, Clear Noodles, Black Mushrooms & Garlic and served with a Sweet Plum Sauce (which Sam omitted, but we loved).
EGG ROLLS- a veggie version with sweet and sour sauce He ate tons of these and we also enjoyed an order of TOD MUNN my beloved Thai FISH CAKES with Red Curry Paste and Chilie Sweet Sauce with Cucumber.
A bottle of PROSPER MAUFOUX 2003 Pouilly-Fuisse was a nice light and acidic foil to the spice, b ut was oddly served with chilled glasses.
Will and I decided to continue with an order of traditional PAD THAI and this was indeed the best I have ever had in a restaurant. Several plump shrinp mixed in with the rice noodles and sprouts, a pile of yummy peanut chunks, egg and a lime for perfection.
Our next and final entree was the excellent quality TIGER TEAR BEEF a Northern Thai specialty made from grilles top quality steak with vegetables (cabbage, carrots and broccoli) and a spicy dipping sauce (a milder version arrived on the spot when Will requested it) and rice. A glass of house Round Hill Merlot was nice, but wins nor prizes.
We departed happilY after chatting with an English family with a 2+year old at the next table (the Brits are EVERYWHERE here as the dollar is so cheap for them!).
Samuel enjoyed several appetizers as his main course: THAI THANI ANGLE WINGS (he said they were called so because they had an angle) stuffed with PORK, Water Chestnut, Clear Noodles, Black Mushrooms & Garlic and served with a Sweet Plum Sauce (which Sam omitted, but we loved).
EGG ROLLS- a veggie version with sweet and sour sauce He ate tons of these and we also enjoyed an order of TOD MUNN my beloved Thai FISH CAKES with Red Curry Paste and Chilie Sweet Sauce with Cucumber.
A bottle of PROSPER MAUFOUX 2003 Pouilly-Fuisse was a nice light and acidic foil to the spice, b ut was oddly served with chilled glasses.
Will and I decided to continue with an order of traditional PAD THAI and this was indeed the best I have ever had in a restaurant. Several plump shrinp mixed in with the rice noodles and sprouts, a pile of yummy peanut chunks, egg and a lime for perfection.
Our next and final entree was the excellent quality TIGER TEAR BEEF a Northern Thai specialty made from grilles top quality steak with vegetables (cabbage, carrots and broccoli) and a spicy dipping sauce (a milder version arrived on the spot when Will requested it) and rice. A glass of house Round Hill Merlot was nice, but wins nor prizes.
We departed happilY after chatting with an English family with a 2+year old at the next table (the Brits are EVERYWHERE here as the dollar is so cheap for them!).
Mike's Smokehouse BQ & Grill in Tampa might be tops for BBQ
We headed east from St.Pete Beach this morning and decided to stop at Tampa's top spot for BBQ located just NE of the city (they have a location also to the west just across the bay-www.smokehousebbqandgrill.com) and we were treated to a BBQ better than we have ever had in Texas and a real home warm feeling as well.
Samuel was happy with his chicken tenders and after much coaxing ate most of his superb HUSH PUPPIES.
Will and I went for the traditional sandwiches with his being solely the PULLED PORK and mine being the combo PULLED PORK & BEEF combo. The meat was supeb and gthere were about four or five BBQ sauces to try..we liked the housemade MILD BBQ with a bit of spice best. My side of COLE SLAW was dreamy and Will went for the Baked Beans loaded with pork.
This place has take-out, eat-in, deals and meals and if you are ever in the area..it's a not miss!
Samuel was happy with his chicken tenders and after much coaxing ate most of his superb HUSH PUPPIES.
Will and I went for the traditional sandwiches with his being solely the PULLED PORK and mine being the combo PULLED PORK & BEEF combo. The meat was supeb and gthere were about four or five BBQ sauces to try..we liked the housemade MILD BBQ with a bit of spice best. My side of COLE SLAW was dreamy and Will went for the Baked Beans loaded with pork.
This place has take-out, eat-in, deals and meals and if you are ever in the area..it's a not miss!
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Christmas at COLUMBIA is cool Latin cuisine in St. Petersburg, FL
Tonight we returned across the peninsula to St. Petersburg (the city, as opposed to the beach where we are staying) to COLUMBIA RESTAURANT located atop the PIER with beautiful views of the downtown as well as the bay. Samuel joined us in the historic restaurant which has its roots over 100 years ago in Ybor City (the original is still there and now seats of 1700!) where it was founded by Cuban immigrants in 1905. We started with a pitcher of the SANGRIA de CAVA made tableside with Cristalino Cava and Torres brandy...YUM YUM and Samuel quickly got his STEAK & FRIES which was very akin to the French "steak/frites" in that it was a simple yet tasty hanger-like cut with fries....he devoured almost al of this large child portion (FOR $4.95 WITH DRINK!!).
We chose several tapas to start with and loved them all: CROQUETAS de POLLO were served with the very hot COLUMBIA HOT SAUCE on the side and were creamy tasty versions made with Cuban bread crumbs. The MEJILLONS y CHORIZO "Andres"was an almost entree sized portion of plump PEI MUSSELS with tomato (huge cooked chunks), basil, spinach, garlic, white wine and lemon with the homemade Columbia chorizo...this was a dream dish.
SHRIMP & CRAB ALCACHOFAS was more of a creamy dip from artichoke, shrimp & crab served with large oyster-like crackers.
Will and I decided to split an entree of POMPANO en PAPILLOT which is a dish that dates to the 1940's and has stayed on the menu for some time. Made with SHRIMP, CRAB, ARTICHOKE and White Wine Butter Sauce and baked in parchment paper the fish came completely burnt the first time. Our super server, Earl from Arkansas, was back within 2 minutes with a fresh and delicious portion, served with yellow rice and peas. We were impressed and very happy. A bottle of ANTU NINQUEN 2004 Syrah from Chile was a great and huge impressive wine. This is a joint venture in the Colchagua Valley by Paul Hobbs and Mont Gras Vineyards which would easily top anyone's super impressive wine list from Chile. Will loved the CREMA CATALANA which was burned tableside to his desire and Sam gave it a "two pats on his belly" rating, although he really like his STRAWBERRIES served in strawberry sauce with whipped cream. We all went happy and spent tons less than the previous night--surprise!
We chose several tapas to start with and loved them all: CROQUETAS de POLLO were served with the very hot COLUMBIA HOT SAUCE on the side and were creamy tasty versions made with Cuban bread crumbs. The MEJILLONS y CHORIZO "Andres"was an almost entree sized portion of plump PEI MUSSELS with tomato (huge cooked chunks), basil, spinach, garlic, white wine and lemon with the homemade Columbia chorizo...this was a dream dish.
SHRIMP & CRAB ALCACHOFAS was more of a creamy dip from artichoke, shrimp & crab served with large oyster-like crackers.
Will and I decided to split an entree of POMPANO en PAPILLOT which is a dish that dates to the 1940's and has stayed on the menu for some time. Made with SHRIMP, CRAB, ARTICHOKE and White Wine Butter Sauce and baked in parchment paper the fish came completely burnt the first time. Our super server, Earl from Arkansas, was back within 2 minutes with a fresh and delicious portion, served with yellow rice and peas. We were impressed and very happy. A bottle of ANTU NINQUEN 2004 Syrah from Chile was a great and huge impressive wine. This is a joint venture in the Colchagua Valley by Paul Hobbs and Mont Gras Vineyards which would easily top anyone's super impressive wine list from Chile. Will loved the CREMA CATALANA which was burned tableside to his desire and Sam gave it a "two pats on his belly" rating, although he really like his STRAWBERRIES served in strawberry sauce with whipped cream. We all went happy and spent tons less than the previous night--surprise!
Monday, December 24, 2007
mediocre MARITANA doesn't make it on Xmas Eve-St. Petersburg Beach, FL
While the metro Tampa/St. Petersburg area has some fine restaurants, most of them tend to be closed on Christmas Eve, so we opted to dine 2 blocks down the road from our place (The Don Cesar Beach Suites) in the main dining room of the grande dame hotel of the area...MARITANA at the DON CESAR HOTEL (that big pink palace on the beach that Sam loves). Our expectations were high and were sometimes met, but not often enough to make the $300 tab really worth it.
We liked the huge fish tanks at the entrance with lion fish and more and those along the wall, but managed to get the one booth that faced a mirror.The light wood, big banquettes and ceiling fans give an airy and seafaring feeling, and our server Marc (from Quebec) seemed able enough as well.
We started with a DARIOUSH VIOGNIER 2006 which is super creamy with a citrus tang on the tong and immediately received our superb amuse of CREAM of TOMATO-BASIL soup with Basil Oil and Lump Crab Garnish which was really a rich bisque in a demitasse with nice chunks of tasty crabmeat. The bread came next and we got even more impressed with the beautifully presented herb grissini held up by slices of semolina and ended by two types of focaccia (potato and rosemary). A huge head of roasted garlic and carafes of extra virgin olive oil and balsamic were there for garnish. Where do I begin?
Will started with a GRAVLAX of SALMON, LUMP CRAB MEAT and TUNA TIMBALE which was atop MANGO Carpaccio with Citrus Vinaigrette, The description confused me as the timbale was mostly tuna topped with crab and a garnish of salmon and should have been ordered in reverse on the menu based on ingredients, even if it was very nice. My dreamy MAINE LOBSTER AGNOLOTTI were served atop wilted LEEKS, CORAL BUTTER with White TRUFFLE OIL and had the food stayed at this level, we would have been very happy.
We ordered a bottle of DOMAINE CARNEROS 2004 Chardonnay which was really very UNEXCITING for a Carneros Chard and then split a salad of MAINE LOBSTER & WHITE ASPARAGUS with Lemongrass Vinaigrette which was bland and unexciting save for the edible DINDROVOIUM orchid!
Entrees were a PAN SEARED SEA SCALLOP with Lobster Risotto, Roasted Beets and a bare tad of Osetra Caviar with Citrus Vinaigrette (the chef seems to like citrus vinaigrette!) which Will did not rave about, while my ORANGE HABANERO cream sauced GROUPER with a WARM LOBSTER, PINEAPPLE & VANILLA BEAN STEW on the side became miraculous when the two were combined to foil the spiciness with the slight sweet. Glazed Banana and Rum Pepper Paint finished off this wonderful inventive and superb tasting dish.
Sadly, when our glasses were refilled a different waiter poured someone else's Pouilly Fuisse into our Chardonnay and had to dump the glasses (it DID taste AWFUL!). He said he would pay (an odd usage or term) for additional glasses for us.
We decided to split the RASPBERRY SOUFFLE and order just one glass of dessert wine between us (which the other waiter was "paying" for"). From here on in, everything went downhill. The OREMUS TOKAJI 1999 Aszu Puttonyos was really a boring dessert wine, with little sweetness and I could only help thinking the bottle had been open for days or the vintage just sucked. The souffle was fine for two bites, but the entire inside was uncooked. We told Marc to simply take it back and bring the check (minus the souffle, of course). It came fast enough with some superb chocolates, but HOW CHINCY CAN YOU BE when you bring two DIFFERENT chocolates for two people, so they have to split the CAPPUCCINO and PRALINE (which was GREAT) so they can each taste each type!
Like I said, highs and lows, but not worth the tab.
We liked the huge fish tanks at the entrance with lion fish and more and those along the wall, but managed to get the one booth that faced a mirror.The light wood, big banquettes and ceiling fans give an airy and seafaring feeling, and our server Marc (from Quebec) seemed able enough as well.
We started with a DARIOUSH VIOGNIER 2006 which is super creamy with a citrus tang on the tong and immediately received our superb amuse of CREAM of TOMATO-BASIL soup with Basil Oil and Lump Crab Garnish which was really a rich bisque in a demitasse with nice chunks of tasty crabmeat. The bread came next and we got even more impressed with the beautifully presented herb grissini held up by slices of semolina and ended by two types of focaccia (potato and rosemary). A huge head of roasted garlic and carafes of extra virgin olive oil and balsamic were there for garnish. Where do I begin?
Will started with a GRAVLAX of SALMON, LUMP CRAB MEAT and TUNA TIMBALE which was atop MANGO Carpaccio with Citrus Vinaigrette, The description confused me as the timbale was mostly tuna topped with crab and a garnish of salmon and should have been ordered in reverse on the menu based on ingredients, even if it was very nice. My dreamy MAINE LOBSTER AGNOLOTTI were served atop wilted LEEKS, CORAL BUTTER with White TRUFFLE OIL and had the food stayed at this level, we would have been very happy.
We ordered a bottle of DOMAINE CARNEROS 2004 Chardonnay which was really very UNEXCITING for a Carneros Chard and then split a salad of MAINE LOBSTER & WHITE ASPARAGUS with Lemongrass Vinaigrette which was bland and unexciting save for the edible DINDROVOIUM orchid!
Entrees were a PAN SEARED SEA SCALLOP with Lobster Risotto, Roasted Beets and a bare tad of Osetra Caviar with Citrus Vinaigrette (the chef seems to like citrus vinaigrette!) which Will did not rave about, while my ORANGE HABANERO cream sauced GROUPER with a WARM LOBSTER, PINEAPPLE & VANILLA BEAN STEW on the side became miraculous when the two were combined to foil the spiciness with the slight sweet. Glazed Banana and Rum Pepper Paint finished off this wonderful inventive and superb tasting dish.
Sadly, when our glasses were refilled a different waiter poured someone else's Pouilly Fuisse into our Chardonnay and had to dump the glasses (it DID taste AWFUL!). He said he would pay (an odd usage or term) for additional glasses for us.
We decided to split the RASPBERRY SOUFFLE and order just one glass of dessert wine between us (which the other waiter was "paying" for"). From here on in, everything went downhill. The OREMUS TOKAJI 1999 Aszu Puttonyos was really a boring dessert wine, with little sweetness and I could only help thinking the bottle had been open for days or the vintage just sucked. The souffle was fine for two bites, but the entire inside was uncooked. We told Marc to simply take it back and bring the check (minus the souffle, of course). It came fast enough with some superb chocolates, but HOW CHINCY CAN YOU BE when you bring two DIFFERENT chocolates for two people, so they have to split the CAPPUCCINO and PRALINE (which was GREAT) so they can each taste each type!
Like I said, highs and lows, but not worth the tab.
Sunday, December 23, 2007
St. Petersburg's (FL) CEVICHE is a super spot
Last night was a special evening for all of us as Samuel, Will and I joined our friend's Phyllis (yes, she is a Phyllis-teen too!) from Naples, Florida here in St. Petersburg, Florida for the afternoon and evening. We met them almost 8 years ago cruising in Costa Rica and have stayed in touch ever since. It was a great reunion (their first time meeting Sam) capped by a wonderful meal at CEVICHE Tapas Bar and Restaurant with other locations in Orlando & Tampa as well (www.cevichetapas.com).
I called over a month ago and they said they don't take reservations except for parties of six or more, but upon arrival we realized they have no tables made for 5 people, so we could not get one for 6 as they were all reserved. They finally put two tables together and solved the problem; from here on in it was a treat
We got Samuel an order of ALBONDIGAS-veal, chorizo and pork meatballs in a piquant tomato sauce which he adored. His second tapas was the PAPAS FRITAS-housemade potato chips with crumbles Cabrales blue cheese which he also gobbled up along with the rest of us.
Meanwhile we were sipping a VINA SALCEDA RESERVA 2001 from Rioja region made from Tempranillom Maziano and Graciano grapes. This wine resembled a red zin as it had lots of spice in the finish and went with the varied tapas we ordered. We might have normally started with white, but the place had the a/c on so high (it was 70 outside and 65 inside!) we opted to head for a warm red right away. Our second wine was an amazing CONDESA de LEGANZA RESERVA 1996 Tempranilla from La Mancha that was so smooth it was amazing at $30! An aged Bordeaux of the same price range would not be able to compete.
Our first tapas were cold ceviche and we chose two: DE LA CASA which was a shrimp, squid, fish & scallop combo that could not compare in taste, size or price with the one we had in Guatemala last week, but the CEVICHE A LA RUSE was a plate of three superb plump oysters with an onion cilantro relish topped with caviar and a shot of Ice cold Russian vodka on the side!
BOQUERONES were top quality freshly marinated anchovies in a cilantro relish and the ESPINACAS was out of this world sauteed spinach with FIGS, HONEY & GARLIC!
ALCACHOFAS RELLENAS were artichoke bottoms filled with HAM & SHRIMP and served in a tasty SHERRY CREAM SAUCE that we wanted to mop up. Speaking of mopping up, Sam opted to do this with his meatball sauce and a chunk of bread, a major development in food eating skills in my book (mopping that is!).
CROQUETAS de BACALAO were super rich creamy cod croquettes with BECHAMEL both inside and to dip as well....way too rich, but YUM YUM. Our fab server Jessica (she recommended the 2nd wine) said we must try the PIQUILLOS RELLENOS-Roasted Red Peppers with Ground Veal and Chorizo in a Light Sherry Sauce that was another big winner. The one semi-dud on the menu was the PULPO ALA GALLEGA which was an herb marinated octopus served on potato on bread with paprika. Two of the pieces were quite chewy and did not impress, even though the preparation was excellent.
Sam opted for vanilla ice cream with berries for dessert and ended up eating just the berries because he was so full. We shared two other standard: FLAN LORENA, a very firm and fine version of the traditional dish and PUDIN DE PAIN which was excellent and made with dried fruit and Spanish Sherry.
We parted both the restaurant and our friends on a sad note, hoping that we will see Phyllis & Michael again soon, and hopefully find more wonderful dining spots like Ceviche again as well.
I called over a month ago and they said they don't take reservations except for parties of six or more, but upon arrival we realized they have no tables made for 5 people, so we could not get one for 6 as they were all reserved. They finally put two tables together and solved the problem; from here on in it was a treat
We got Samuel an order of ALBONDIGAS-veal, chorizo and pork meatballs in a piquant tomato sauce which he adored. His second tapas was the PAPAS FRITAS-housemade potato chips with crumbles Cabrales blue cheese which he also gobbled up along with the rest of us.
Meanwhile we were sipping a VINA SALCEDA RESERVA 2001 from Rioja region made from Tempranillom Maziano and Graciano grapes. This wine resembled a red zin as it had lots of spice in the finish and went with the varied tapas we ordered. We might have normally started with white, but the place had the a/c on so high (it was 70 outside and 65 inside!) we opted to head for a warm red right away. Our second wine was an amazing CONDESA de LEGANZA RESERVA 1996 Tempranilla from La Mancha that was so smooth it was amazing at $30! An aged Bordeaux of the same price range would not be able to compete.
Our first tapas were cold ceviche and we chose two: DE LA CASA which was a shrimp, squid, fish & scallop combo that could not compare in taste, size or price with the one we had in Guatemala last week, but the CEVICHE A LA RUSE was a plate of three superb plump oysters with an onion cilantro relish topped with caviar and a shot of Ice cold Russian vodka on the side!
BOQUERONES were top quality freshly marinated anchovies in a cilantro relish and the ESPINACAS was out of this world sauteed spinach with FIGS, HONEY & GARLIC!
ALCACHOFAS RELLENAS were artichoke bottoms filled with HAM & SHRIMP and served in a tasty SHERRY CREAM SAUCE that we wanted to mop up. Speaking of mopping up, Sam opted to do this with his meatball sauce and a chunk of bread, a major development in food eating skills in my book (mopping that is!).
CROQUETAS de BACALAO were super rich creamy cod croquettes with BECHAMEL both inside and to dip as well....way too rich, but YUM YUM. Our fab server Jessica (she recommended the 2nd wine) said we must try the PIQUILLOS RELLENOS-Roasted Red Peppers with Ground Veal and Chorizo in a Light Sherry Sauce that was another big winner. The one semi-dud on the menu was the PULPO ALA GALLEGA which was an herb marinated octopus served on potato on bread with paprika. Two of the pieces were quite chewy and did not impress, even though the preparation was excellent.
Sam opted for vanilla ice cream with berries for dessert and ended up eating just the berries because he was so full. We shared two other standard: FLAN LORENA, a very firm and fine version of the traditional dish and PUDIN DE PAIN which was excellent and made with dried fruit and Spanish Sherry.
We parted both the restaurant and our friends on a sad note, hoping that we will see Phyllis & Michael again soon, and hopefully find more wonderful dining spots like Ceviche again as well.
Saturday, December 22, 2007
Livingston, Guatemala's HAPPY FISH will make you happy
The other day as we cruised the Caribbean coast of Central America we returned to Guatemala with Samuel the first time since he had come home 4 years ago.
It was an odd experience pulling into Santo Tomas de Castillo and Will telling Sam what a beautiful country it was as he replied, "Thank you, Daddy."
Our day tour was a long an fulfilling boat trip on the Rio Dulce and we ended up in the town of LIVINGSTON where there are many wonderful simple local dining options. We headed for the HAPPY FISH as it was owned by the tour company that provided our arrangements.
While Samuel kept things simple with a SPAGHETTI with Salsa Rojo (aka tomato) we started with one of the best CEVICHES ever loaded with tomato and every fish from the area (shrimp, scallop, fish, conch, etc).
The fruit smoothies were a treat--mine was papaya, Daddy had a mango and Sam opted for the fizzy lemonade.
The main course was TAPADO a local Garifuna soup well bouillabaisse with coconut and whole crabs an entire Palometto Fish, shrimp and more.
We were so full after this $10 bowl of magnificence that we just skipped dessert (well, Sam had icecream) and went shopping.
It was an odd experience pulling into Santo Tomas de Castillo and Will telling Sam what a beautiful country it was as he replied, "Thank you, Daddy."
Our day tour was a long an fulfilling boat trip on the Rio Dulce and we ended up in the town of LIVINGSTON where there are many wonderful simple local dining options. We headed for the HAPPY FISH as it was owned by the tour company that provided our arrangements.
While Samuel kept things simple with a SPAGHETTI with Salsa Rojo (aka tomato) we started with one of the best CEVICHES ever loaded with tomato and every fish from the area (shrimp, scallop, fish, conch, etc).
The fruit smoothies were a treat--mine was papaya, Daddy had a mango and Sam opted for the fizzy lemonade.
The main course was TAPADO a local Garifuna soup well bouillabaisse with coconut and whole crabs an entire Palometto Fish, shrimp and more.
We were so full after this $10 bowl of magnificence that we just skipped dessert (well, Sam had icecream) and went shopping.
Friday, December 14, 2007
NY's VONG is very much worth the visit
Friday night I headed over to the East Side for an early dinner at VONG (200 E 54th St at 3rd Ave) the Asian home of the world famous Jean-Georges V. which has managed to ear itself one Michelin star in the newest incarnation the NY Michelin Red Guide. We have indeed avoided Jean-George's establishments as years ago we had an awful runin with the staff at his #1 Manhattan spot and vowed not to return.
I am glad I gave VONG a chance as the staff was beyond superb, indeed PERFECT. The food was pretty good as well.
The wooden floors, bright red chairs and cozy banquettes are splattered with tons of Asian influenced art and hangings along with fans on vertical poles that are the same as ceiling fans, but on the floor. The tables are dark slate and have small blond woven mats with legant stainless and chopsticks. A wet towel (not hot) is brought as soon as you are seated; thick crispy sesame rice crackers follow with an irresistible crunchy spicy peanut sauce.
The menu is not too big and I was very happy for the selection of five appetizers (which rings in at $24 per person!!, but is REALLY worth it):
CRAB SPRING ROLL is crunchy and filled with excellent ingredients and served with a yummy tamarind dipping sauce.
PRAWN SATAY belies its name as these are yummy medium size shrimp on a skewer yet breaded unlike the traditional satay and then served a spicy red chili dipping sauce.
RAW TUNA ROLL is wrapped with Avocado & Vegetable in a Rice Paper and served with the traditional Asian fish (nampla) sauce.
LOBSTER & DAIKON ROLL is another yummy treat with a light ROSEMARY GINGER DIP
The CRUNCHY CRESS Salad is topped with a large portion of SPICED QUAIL.
It was hard to pick a favorite as they were all super tasty and I am glad I did not pick just one appetizer, as this was perfect. A glass of DOMAINE TRIENNES Saint Fleur 2006 Viognier from Nans-les-Pins was perfect with all the sauces and spices, although a Pinot Blanc or Riesling would work equally well.
I switched to red and a tasty 2005 BARREL 27 SYRAH from the California Central Coast. I never needed to ask for anything and the entire very handsome staff was simply excellent.
For an entree I chose the RABBIT CURRY with Giant BRAISED CARROT and GALANGAL (Ginger) that was recommended by my server; he suggested well. It was three huge pieces of rabbit in a medium weight curry with Jasmine Rice on the side. The loin was prepared breaded on a skewer like the prawn satay appetizer. The meat was a but dry on the loin, but once dipped in the curry was perfect. I loved it all.
Dessert was less successful as I ordered a CINNAMON ROASTED PEAR with SABLEUSE CAKE which came with Licorice Ice Cream (for which I substituted vanilla). The pear was superb, the sableuse was simply a dry pound cake and I barely touched the ice cream as I was so full. A wonderful mint ice cream bonbon wrapped in chocolate came after this and made me happier.
For Asian food, the prices are high, but the quality and service truly make this worth the expense once every now and then.
I am glad I gave VONG a chance as the staff was beyond superb, indeed PERFECT. The food was pretty good as well.
The wooden floors, bright red chairs and cozy banquettes are splattered with tons of Asian influenced art and hangings along with fans on vertical poles that are the same as ceiling fans, but on the floor. The tables are dark slate and have small blond woven mats with legant stainless and chopsticks. A wet towel (not hot) is brought as soon as you are seated; thick crispy sesame rice crackers follow with an irresistible crunchy spicy peanut sauce.
The menu is not too big and I was very happy for the selection of five appetizers (which rings in at $24 per person!!, but is REALLY worth it):
CRAB SPRING ROLL is crunchy and filled with excellent ingredients and served with a yummy tamarind dipping sauce.
PRAWN SATAY belies its name as these are yummy medium size shrimp on a skewer yet breaded unlike the traditional satay and then served a spicy red chili dipping sauce.
RAW TUNA ROLL is wrapped with Avocado & Vegetable in a Rice Paper and served with the traditional Asian fish (nampla) sauce.
LOBSTER & DAIKON ROLL is another yummy treat with a light ROSEMARY GINGER DIP
The CRUNCHY CRESS Salad is topped with a large portion of SPICED QUAIL.
It was hard to pick a favorite as they were all super tasty and I am glad I did not pick just one appetizer, as this was perfect. A glass of DOMAINE TRIENNES Saint Fleur 2006 Viognier from Nans-les-Pins was perfect with all the sauces and spices, although a Pinot Blanc or Riesling would work equally well.
I switched to red and a tasty 2005 BARREL 27 SYRAH from the California Central Coast. I never needed to ask for anything and the entire very handsome staff was simply excellent.
For an entree I chose the RABBIT CURRY with Giant BRAISED CARROT and GALANGAL (Ginger) that was recommended by my server; he suggested well. It was three huge pieces of rabbit in a medium weight curry with Jasmine Rice on the side. The loin was prepared breaded on a skewer like the prawn satay appetizer. The meat was a but dry on the loin, but once dipped in the curry was perfect. I loved it all.
Dessert was less successful as I ordered a CINNAMON ROASTED PEAR with SABLEUSE CAKE which came with Licorice Ice Cream (for which I substituted vanilla). The pear was superb, the sableuse was simply a dry pound cake and I barely touched the ice cream as I was so full. A wonderful mint ice cream bonbon wrapped in chocolate came after this and made me happier.
For Asian food, the prices are high, but the quality and service truly make this worth the expense once every now and then.
Friday, December 07, 2007
PS 7's still pretty stunning
Having loved our visit to PS 7's (777 I St, NW) earlier this summer, we felt a return for heavier fare in the wintertime was due. Friday night, four of us headed over in the cold rain and were as pleased as we were before. Chef Peter Smith is doing an outstanding job, and while he has lost his pastry chef Naomi Gallagher(now at the Four Seasons Hotel in Austin, Texas), many of her dishes still remain (although I did sorely miss the amazing biscuits!).
The wines are still wonderfully eclectic and we started with a 2006 ULACIA HONDARRUBI Txakolina Basque wine from Spain that has a limey effervescence and is reminiscent of a sauvignon blanc. It made a very nice aperitif, and we moved on to a bigger and creamier FAR NIENTE 20005 Chardonnay and then with our entrees another eclectic wine: 2005 COTURRI "Albarello" from Sonoma which is 60% Zinfandel and also has Petite Sirah, Carignane, Barbera and Alicante-Bousquet--how's that for off-the-wall? It was a medium bodied wine and we really wanted more by the time we had our meat, so we returned to the wonderful 2003 SARAH's VINYARD Zinfandel from Gilroy, California that has a huge cherry nose and taste and is wonderfully warm and intense in the mouth.
While the wine is good, the food is superb and our amuse was a MAYTAG BLUE Cheese FONDANT with TOMATO CONFITURE. The blue is medium level intensity and the amuse did its assigned job of tantalizing the palate for more. Our wonderful server Nick guided us in choices and we opted to share a portion of the TUNA SLIDER's to start which was another brilliant amuse and amusing idea. The very SPICY TUNA (a Sararcha Aoili is the secret spicy ingredient)TARTARE is on Naomi's Parker House mini rolls with cilantro and cucumber salad on the side with a sesame, tuna, cilantro vinaigrette--it's a great taste option for 2 or
4 to share.
Will returned to the BABY BEET MOSAIC and I wandered to a new salad called CARPACCIO of ROYAL TRUMPET MUSHROOMS which had Tempura Battered and Fried HARICOTS VERTS drizzled with LOBSTER AIOLI, Frisee and Candied Shallots. It was a wonderful, exciting and different salad (not really a salad at all!) and a big hit with the whole table, as it was large enough for everyone to taste.
The PETITE HOME MADE HOT DOGS are really thick juicy wieners on buns with condiments of ketchup, mustard and relish on the side and a paper cone of thinly julienne fries.
Entrees included a tasty Pan Seared KING SALMON with Sherry Vinaigrette, the same excellent VEAL BREAST with SWEETBREADS that Will had in July which has got to be one of the star dishes here and the PAN ROASTED STRIP LOIN Pave with Wild Mushroom Mac & Cheese Ravioli, Spinach and Cabernet-Mushroom Jus.
My OAT & BROWN BUTTER CRUSTED PORK LOIN was delish and served with super sides of Glazed Apples, Butternut Squash Parisienne & Braised Mustard Greens, all with a Brown-Sugar Rosemary Gastrique. Some though the sweetness too much for the dish, but I liked the crunchy slightly sweet topping that was like pork loin brown betty crumble! Of course, you could always remove the crust if you think it too sweet, but I loved it.
You can't skip dessert at PS 7's, but two of us opted for the cheese which is always a treat: THOMASVILLE TOMME, HUMBOLDT FOG Goat and MONA's (cow & sheep) from VIRGINIA were American treats. Will went for the CHOCOLATE PRALINE BOMBE with Milk Chocolate Mousse, Flourless Chocolate Cake and Wattleseed Ice Cream with Mango Foam (WOW) and I adored my "Meyer Lemon" SIN which included Lemon Yogurt, Candied Meyer Lemon Ouzo Almond Cake, and more...it was a ll so yummy.
After dinner, the treats are just as fun. Chocolate seems to be the theme this winter and there were four each of four types of bonbons:
Mocha Milk Chocolate
Dark Chocolate Cognac
Milk Chocolate Peanut Clusters
and the truly tantalizing WHITE CHOCOLATE PASSION FRUIT
Needless to say, we were full and went home VERY happy.
A small note of kindness goes to Chef Smith, who, upon hearing that we adored the veal breast, wrote down the entire recipe and sent it out for us to take home and try (with a phone number in case of technical assistance!).
The wines are still wonderfully eclectic and we started with a 2006 ULACIA HONDARRUBI Txakolina Basque wine from Spain that has a limey effervescence and is reminiscent of a sauvignon blanc. It made a very nice aperitif, and we moved on to a bigger and creamier FAR NIENTE 20005 Chardonnay and then with our entrees another eclectic wine: 2005 COTURRI "Albarello" from Sonoma which is 60% Zinfandel and also has Petite Sirah, Carignane, Barbera and Alicante-Bousquet--how's that for off-the-wall? It was a medium bodied wine and we really wanted more by the time we had our meat, so we returned to the wonderful 2003 SARAH's VINYARD Zinfandel from Gilroy, California that has a huge cherry nose and taste and is wonderfully warm and intense in the mouth.
While the wine is good, the food is superb and our amuse was a MAYTAG BLUE Cheese FONDANT with TOMATO CONFITURE. The blue is medium level intensity and the amuse did its assigned job of tantalizing the palate for more. Our wonderful server Nick guided us in choices and we opted to share a portion of the TUNA SLIDER's to start which was another brilliant amuse and amusing idea. The very SPICY TUNA (a Sararcha Aoili is the secret spicy ingredient)TARTARE is on Naomi's Parker House mini rolls with cilantro and cucumber salad on the side with a sesame, tuna, cilantro vinaigrette--it's a great taste option for 2 or
4 to share.
Will returned to the BABY BEET MOSAIC and I wandered to a new salad called CARPACCIO of ROYAL TRUMPET MUSHROOMS which had Tempura Battered and Fried HARICOTS VERTS drizzled with LOBSTER AIOLI, Frisee and Candied Shallots. It was a wonderful, exciting and different salad (not really a salad at all!) and a big hit with the whole table, as it was large enough for everyone to taste.
The PETITE HOME MADE HOT DOGS are really thick juicy wieners on buns with condiments of ketchup, mustard and relish on the side and a paper cone of thinly julienne fries.
Entrees included a tasty Pan Seared KING SALMON with Sherry Vinaigrette, the same excellent VEAL BREAST with SWEETBREADS that Will had in July which has got to be one of the star dishes here and the PAN ROASTED STRIP LOIN Pave with Wild Mushroom Mac & Cheese Ravioli, Spinach and Cabernet-Mushroom Jus.
My OAT & BROWN BUTTER CRUSTED PORK LOIN was delish and served with super sides of Glazed Apples, Butternut Squash Parisienne & Braised Mustard Greens, all with a Brown-Sugar Rosemary Gastrique. Some though the sweetness too much for the dish, but I liked the crunchy slightly sweet topping that was like pork loin brown betty crumble! Of course, you could always remove the crust if you think it too sweet, but I loved it.
You can't skip dessert at PS 7's, but two of us opted for the cheese which is always a treat: THOMASVILLE TOMME, HUMBOLDT FOG Goat and MONA's (cow & sheep) from VIRGINIA were American treats. Will went for the CHOCOLATE PRALINE BOMBE with Milk Chocolate Mousse, Flourless Chocolate Cake and Wattleseed Ice Cream with Mango Foam (WOW) and I adored my "Meyer Lemon" SIN which included Lemon Yogurt, Candied Meyer Lemon Ouzo Almond Cake, and more...it was a ll so yummy.
After dinner, the treats are just as fun. Chocolate seems to be the theme this winter and there were four each of four types of bonbons:
Mocha Milk Chocolate
Dark Chocolate Cognac
Milk Chocolate Peanut Clusters
and the truly tantalizing WHITE CHOCOLATE PASSION FRUIT
Needless to say, we were full and went home VERY happy.
A small note of kindness goes to Chef Smith, who, upon hearing that we adored the veal breast, wrote down the entire recipe and sent it out for us to take home and try (with a phone number in case of technical assistance!).
still cuckoo about KINKEAD's
As you Phyllis-teens know, I am not much of a lunch person, but this past Friday, a dear friend was in town and the only time we could meet up was at lunch, so we opted to head to Kinkead's where my absence has been known for way too long.
The courteous staff, good service and excellent food make it easy to see that it is Washington's NUMBER# 1 Zagat rated restaurant in the "Most Popular" category.
Our cozy corner table gave us a view of the kitchen as we settled in with a tasty glass of PALLISER ESTATE 2006 Sauvignon Blanc from Martinborough in New Zealand which works great with almost any seafood.
Our truly wonderful server Stephen gave us ample time to schmooze and catch up and brought our appetizer (which we split) of TUNA TARTARE JALISCO which has been a long time standard. The large chunky tuna is superb and tasty with lots of spice, avocado and lime and has radish and jicama in the adjoining small salad. We also enjoyed the always excellent FRIED IPSWICH CLAMS which seemed to be even better this time. The batter seemed a bit lighter and crispier and tastier (has there been a change?) and the clams are moist and tender; and who can refuse the excellent dipping sauce!
More wine and more talk and our entrees arrived and the portions were larger than we expected. The LOBSTER ROLL has a peppery jolt and the meat is firm, fleshy and moist (I just tasted) and my MAINE SEAFOOD CHOWDER was a dream. The "chowder" was actually not the New England style thick soup I had expected, but somewhere between this and a rich bouillabaisse that was just perfect. Loaded with bay scallops, Blue Hill Bay Mussels, Finnan Haddie and moist tasty Stone Crab claws it was an amazing and filling treat.
So filling we could not even ponder thoughts of dessert and made our way out thanking everyone for a super lunch.
The courteous staff, good service and excellent food make it easy to see that it is Washington's NUMBER# 1 Zagat rated restaurant in the "Most Popular" category.
Our cozy corner table gave us a view of the kitchen as we settled in with a tasty glass of PALLISER ESTATE 2006 Sauvignon Blanc from Martinborough in New Zealand which works great with almost any seafood.
Our truly wonderful server Stephen gave us ample time to schmooze and catch up and brought our appetizer (which we split) of TUNA TARTARE JALISCO which has been a long time standard. The large chunky tuna is superb and tasty with lots of spice, avocado and lime and has radish and jicama in the adjoining small salad. We also enjoyed the always excellent FRIED IPSWICH CLAMS which seemed to be even better this time. The batter seemed a bit lighter and crispier and tastier (has there been a change?) and the clams are moist and tender; and who can refuse the excellent dipping sauce!
More wine and more talk and our entrees arrived and the portions were larger than we expected. The LOBSTER ROLL has a peppery jolt and the meat is firm, fleshy and moist (I just tasted) and my MAINE SEAFOOD CHOWDER was a dream. The "chowder" was actually not the New England style thick soup I had expected, but somewhere between this and a rich bouillabaisse that was just perfect. Loaded with bay scallops, Blue Hill Bay Mussels, Finnan Haddie and moist tasty Stone Crab claws it was an amazing and filling treat.
So filling we could not even ponder thoughts of dessert and made our way out thanking everyone for a super lunch.
Monday, December 03, 2007
sublime Caesar at PRIMEHOUSE David Burke in Chicago
One of the biggest problems I have dining in Chicago are the opera curtain times, which this week are at 630pm since both operas I am seeing are 4 hours (normal curtains are at 730pm for 3-3-1/2 hour operas). Well, you can't really eat at fine dining sports at 430pm, and 11pm isn't much better.
Since I am staying at one of Chicago's newest boutique luxury hotels The James, I was thrilled to return here at 11pm and find the hotel's restaurant open until midnight on Friday and Saturday (I might just have to return again tonight).
Restauranteur David Burke has many spots all over the USA, but PRIMEHOUSE DAVID BURKE was recently rated the best steakhouse in Chicago (no small feat) and offers a varied and exciting menu and wine list that is great for steak or anything. At midnight on my body clock, I was not in the mood for a 20-30 ounce steak, even if it did come from a specially bred organic-siring bull and was aged in-house using Himalayan rock salt (maybe tonight!). I figured a meat dish was in order and asked my server about the KOBE BEEF SASHIMI. She said the carpaccio style dish included about 2 ounces of superb meat, and then recommended the table-side prepared CAESAR SALAD as one of the larger appetizer/salad options.
The wine list is superb and varied and rather than glasses offers small carafes of about a glass and a half. I asked about the Petite Syrah 2005 from TEN MILES in California and she immediately suggested the SIERRA CANTABRIA 2005 Tempranillo from Rioja in Spain instead and proffered two small tasting glasses for me to choose. Natasha was spot on with this suggestion, as the Petite Syrah was nice but not exciting. With temperatures outside near 20, and wind chills much worse, the Tempranillo was warm, full-bodied and a bit racy, simply tantalizing to the tongue.
I sipped and looked around the almost empty quiet room, which I am sure was heaving earlier on, with its low lighting, brown leather tables and chairs and huge roomy booths (they offered me one for six and I opted for the smaller table for four). My KOBE BEEF SASHIMI arrived in round circles gorgeously layered on a huge 6 inch by 3 inch by 2 inch high block of Himalayan Rock Salt and scattered with MUSHROOM CHIPS and a superb TRUFFLE MAYO dip on the side. The meat was about the best carpaccio ever and the chips made for fun, taste and a bit of crunch (think bacon bits made of mushroom). The CEASAR Salad (the opera I see tonight is Julius Caesar!) was professionally prepared in front of me and I chose to have it topped with FRESH MARIANTED WHITE ANCHOVIES that were clearly and deliciously lemon-infused, the salad itself very traditional and just the right dish for just before midnight and bed.
A yummy popover came as well right from the oven with a pat of tasty butter sprinkled with that super Himalayan Rock Salt (I just might have to indulge in the steak tonight, no matter how late it is!).
I was off to bed in my wonderful and luckily quiet room and today am looking forward to more fun dining and opera in the snow/sleet and ice that is expected soon!
Since I am staying at one of Chicago's newest boutique luxury hotels The James, I was thrilled to return here at 11pm and find the hotel's restaurant open until midnight on Friday and Saturday (I might just have to return again tonight).
Restauranteur David Burke has many spots all over the USA, but PRIMEHOUSE DAVID BURKE was recently rated the best steakhouse in Chicago (no small feat) and offers a varied and exciting menu and wine list that is great for steak or anything. At midnight on my body clock, I was not in the mood for a 20-30 ounce steak, even if it did come from a specially bred organic-siring bull and was aged in-house using Himalayan rock salt (maybe tonight!). I figured a meat dish was in order and asked my server about the KOBE BEEF SASHIMI. She said the carpaccio style dish included about 2 ounces of superb meat, and then recommended the table-side prepared CAESAR SALAD as one of the larger appetizer/salad options.
The wine list is superb and varied and rather than glasses offers small carafes of about a glass and a half. I asked about the Petite Syrah 2005 from TEN MILES in California and she immediately suggested the SIERRA CANTABRIA 2005 Tempranillo from Rioja in Spain instead and proffered two small tasting glasses for me to choose. Natasha was spot on with this suggestion, as the Petite Syrah was nice but not exciting. With temperatures outside near 20, and wind chills much worse, the Tempranillo was warm, full-bodied and a bit racy, simply tantalizing to the tongue.
I sipped and looked around the almost empty quiet room, which I am sure was heaving earlier on, with its low lighting, brown leather tables and chairs and huge roomy booths (they offered me one for six and I opted for the smaller table for four). My KOBE BEEF SASHIMI arrived in round circles gorgeously layered on a huge 6 inch by 3 inch by 2 inch high block of Himalayan Rock Salt and scattered with MUSHROOM CHIPS and a superb TRUFFLE MAYO dip on the side. The meat was about the best carpaccio ever and the chips made for fun, taste and a bit of crunch (think bacon bits made of mushroom). The CEASAR Salad (the opera I see tonight is Julius Caesar!) was professionally prepared in front of me and I chose to have it topped with FRESH MARIANTED WHITE ANCHOVIES that were clearly and deliciously lemon-infused, the salad itself very traditional and just the right dish for just before midnight and bed.
A yummy popover came as well right from the oven with a pat of tasty butter sprinkled with that super Himalayan Rock Salt (I just might have to indulge in the steak tonight, no matter how late it is!).
I was off to bed in my wonderful and luckily quiet room and today am looking forward to more fun dining and opera in the snow/sleet and ice that is expected soon!
Saturday, December 01, 2007
Chicago cuisine-SHAW's super seafood and late night at QUARTINO
Lunch was late and at SHAW's OYSTER BAY which has been around since forever. I was in an OYSTER MOOD and went for the selection of six with a glass of SALNEVAL ALBARINO from Rias Baixas 2006 Spain which was crisp and fruity and fine for oysters even though it was not on the "Oyster Friendly wine selection list!"
FISHERS ISLAND came from Block Island Sound, NY
JUDD COVE from Orcas Island, Washington is a deep shelled plump rich oyster and is now on my list of faves
COTUIT from the same named bay in Mass
MILL POINT from PrinceEdward Island
QUILCENE from Quilcene Bay in Washington is always a treat
and the DEEP BAY FLAT is a huge shell with plump briny oyster from Deep Bay, BC that is also a new treat
My fish choice was the PARMESAN CRUSTED GEORGE'S BANK HADDOCK with Sauteed Spinach Capers & Lemon Butter which was a very nice dish, well prepared and tasty, but doesn't come close to the preparation and flavor in Bob Kinkead's crusted creations. The SAUTEED FLORIDA RED GROUP with Pumpkin Seed Crust was a bit more interesting, and I never met a grouper I didn't like.
My second wine was a tasty almost oak free McWILLIAMS SE Australia 2005 Chardonnay. It was a yummy meal and then time for a nap before the opera.
The opera ended after 11pm and sadly my steak place in the hotel was closed when I got back, so I headed around the corner to QUARTINO (www.quartinochicago.com) where the wines are poured by the 1/4 (hence the name), 1/2 or full liter with many wonderful selections. I opted for the 1/4 of house VALPOLICELLA, a wonderful wine with the RAVIOLI stuffed with pork in MUSHROOM SAUCE and crunchy SPECK. My appetizer arrived after the ravioli (that was weird) but it was fine as I had ordered a $2 VEAL MEATBALL SLIDER which is a small mini-Italian roll with one yummy veal meatball on it (think three-four bite Italian meatball sub!). On the side was a spicy pickled giardiniere of fennel, peppers, cauliflower and other veggies.
Still hungry I moved to the cheese and meat selections which one can make a meal of as well. I chose the LONZINO (each selection is $4 and is about 2 ounces) which is an air dried pork loin that would have benefited from better cutting rather than coming out as shredded as it did. On the side is more giardiniere, a small sweet & sour cucumber salad and a yummy candied fried mostarda for the meat.
I also chose the small dish of PECORINO TOSCANO (also $4 and 5 huge chunks) which is a tasty nutty one and is served with fruit bread and 3 sides as well: Grape salad, fennel salad (which I didn't like--surprise) and a yummy apricot rosemary puree which worked well with the cheese.
I gathered up my final two chunks of cheese which I am munching as I write this and head to bed....
Good night Chicago.
FISHERS ISLAND came from Block Island Sound, NY
JUDD COVE from Orcas Island, Washington is a deep shelled plump rich oyster and is now on my list of faves
COTUIT from the same named bay in Mass
MILL POINT from PrinceEdward Island
QUILCENE from Quilcene Bay in Washington is always a treat
and the DEEP BAY FLAT is a huge shell with plump briny oyster from Deep Bay, BC that is also a new treat
My fish choice was the PARMESAN CRUSTED GEORGE'S BANK HADDOCK with Sauteed Spinach Capers & Lemon Butter which was a very nice dish, well prepared and tasty, but doesn't come close to the preparation and flavor in Bob Kinkead's crusted creations. The SAUTEED FLORIDA RED GROUP with Pumpkin Seed Crust was a bit more interesting, and I never met a grouper I didn't like.
My second wine was a tasty almost oak free McWILLIAMS SE Australia 2005 Chardonnay. It was a yummy meal and then time for a nap before the opera.
The opera ended after 11pm and sadly my steak place in the hotel was closed when I got back, so I headed around the corner to QUARTINO (www.quartinochicago.com) where the wines are poured by the 1/4 (hence the name), 1/2 or full liter with many wonderful selections. I opted for the 1/4 of house VALPOLICELLA, a wonderful wine with the RAVIOLI stuffed with pork in MUSHROOM SAUCE and crunchy SPECK. My appetizer arrived after the ravioli (that was weird) but it was fine as I had ordered a $2 VEAL MEATBALL SLIDER which is a small mini-Italian roll with one yummy veal meatball on it (think three-four bite Italian meatball sub!). On the side was a spicy pickled giardiniere of fennel, peppers, cauliflower and other veggies.
Still hungry I moved to the cheese and meat selections which one can make a meal of as well. I chose the LONZINO (each selection is $4 and is about 2 ounces) which is an air dried pork loin that would have benefited from better cutting rather than coming out as shredded as it did. On the side is more giardiniere, a small sweet & sour cucumber salad and a yummy candied fried mostarda for the meat.
I also chose the small dish of PECORINO TOSCANO (also $4 and 5 huge chunks) which is a tasty nutty one and is served with fruit bread and 3 sides as well: Grape salad, fennel salad (which I didn't like--surprise) and a yummy apricot rosemary puree which worked well with the cheese.
I gathered up my final two chunks of cheese which I am munching as I write this and head to bed....
Good night Chicago.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
looking to LAFAYETTE at the HAY ADAMS
Last night I was invited to a private supper at the HAY ADAMS Hotel here in DC, a notable and beautiful landmark where the Chef de Cuisine prepared a quite amazing menu. The new owners of the hotel have upgraded the wine cellar and are doing quite a spectacular job as can be seen from the delicious menu below:
CREME of CAULIFLOWER CURRY FLOREST served with Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rose Brut, N/V, France which was more of an amuse but totally creamy and tasty getting us really excited for what was to come...
LOBSTER, SCALLOP, FENNEL & WHITE TOMATO MOUSSE TERRINE Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Artisan Series 2004, AustraliaThe wine was a creamy huge chard and went wonderfully with the mousseline like terrine which was almost misty in its texture akin to a cloud. Chunks of Lobster were on the plate as well and it was a beautiful presentation to look at to boot.
SAUTEED ROASTED VENISON MEDALLIONS with Fresh CHANTERELLES, Braised RED CABBAGE, SWEET POTATO Mousse Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2004 Chile.
This was a huge and satisfying red for a winter's night and a wine I will look for in the future as it is drinking wonderfully now, but will also last for years. It was perfect with the ensuing cheese course as well. The venison was so light, I thought it was VEAL Medallions at first and the sauce was not too heavy but definitely delightful. The sides were spectacular giving a whole new meaning to hotel food!
BOONE BOUCHE Vermont ash ripened GOAT CHEESE was served with OREGONZOLA a medium intensity gorgonzola from ROGUE CREAMERY in OREGON (hence the name) which I actually adored.
WHITE CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING with Cranberry Compote and Soft Whipped Cream was a small disc of some of the best bread pudding around, and I ate every bite just leaving the cream!
YUM YUM and cheers to Chef Ville Uusimaki (who is incidentally from Finland).
CREME of CAULIFLOWER CURRY FLOREST served with Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rose Brut, N/V, France which was more of an amuse but totally creamy and tasty getting us really excited for what was to come...
LOBSTER, SCALLOP, FENNEL & WHITE TOMATO MOUSSE TERRINE Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Artisan Series 2004, AustraliaThe wine was a creamy huge chard and went wonderfully with the mousseline like terrine which was almost misty in its texture akin to a cloud. Chunks of Lobster were on the plate as well and it was a beautiful presentation to look at to boot.
SAUTEED ROASTED VENISON MEDALLIONS with Fresh CHANTERELLES, Braised RED CABBAGE, SWEET POTATO Mousse Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2004 Chile.
This was a huge and satisfying red for a winter's night and a wine I will look for in the future as it is drinking wonderfully now, but will also last for years. It was perfect with the ensuing cheese course as well. The venison was so light, I thought it was VEAL Medallions at first and the sauce was not too heavy but definitely delightful. The sides were spectacular giving a whole new meaning to hotel food!
BOONE BOUCHE Vermont ash ripened GOAT CHEESE was served with OREGONZOLA a medium intensity gorgonzola from ROGUE CREAMERY in OREGON (hence the name) which I actually adored.
WHITE CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING with Cranberry Compote and Soft Whipped Cream was a small disc of some of the best bread pudding around, and I ate every bite just leaving the cream!
YUM YUM and cheers to Chef Ville Uusimaki (who is incidentally from Finland).
Monday, November 19, 2007
more praise for PEKING GOURMET INN (Falls Church, VA)
Last April we joined our dear friends Mel & Juan at their traditional family gathering spot for special occasions, PEKING GOURMET INN (www.pekinggourmet.com) on Leesburg Pike in Falls Church, VA. Last night we joined them again for an even more fabulous Chinese dining experience, even better than last time. We did order a number of the same dishes, but also tried some new ones.
The FRIED CHINESE LEEK DUMPLINGS are not to be missed and you can choose to dip them in soy sauce or a soy/vinegar combo, but best is the creamy sweet garlic paste that just seems to be the best condiment around.
The SZECHUAN CABBAGE is simple and cold and not too spicy, so I added some of the marinated Chinese chili peppers, which were pretty mild as well this time around--a nice combination in the end. Once can not skip the presentation of the PEKING DUCK which is such a treat here, and our servers did it great justice! The Chinese scallions are grown on the owner's own farm in Purcelville, VA. The duck is as tender as can be and the skin is crispy and luscious. Wrap this up in the pancake with a dab of plum sauce and you are in heaven. Our other entrees were WALNUT CHICKEN which is prepared with battered chicken breast pieces in a tangy glaze (somewhat akin to sweet & sour) and served with yummy candied walnuts. Again the menu indicates this is spicy, but I thought not at all.
The SINGAPORE RICE NOODLES are an excellent choice for a bit of spice and are delicate rice noodles in a very light curry sauce, almost a film rather than a sauce.
SZECHUAN BEEF comes looking like branches of shredded beef and has that wonderful crunchy texture and a good amount of spice while the BLACK PEPPER BEEF is huge chunks of beef in a slightly spicy peppery sauce and coating.
The top dish here besides the duck will always be the JEO-YEN SHRIMP which one of us said was "like sex in my mouth." They are the best battered shrimp anywhere and come with that superb light coconut flavor.
Another seasonal treat is the GARLIC SPROUTS also from the Purcellville farm and we chose them STIR FRIED with PORK. While you can get them with shrimp or chicken, I think their strength really calls for the pork to equalize the intensity of the tasty sprout.
We needed to skip dessert, but our hosts brought a magnificent GERMAN CHOCOLATE CAKE procured from Desserts by Gerard in Oxon Hill, which we all devoured despite being so full. Sam gets to have a taste tonight! The wines were superb as well with a FOLEY 2005 SANTA RITA HILLS Pinot Noir and a 2004 SIMI Russian River Chardonnay going so well with everything.
But, boy do I need a rest before Thanksgiving. HAVE A WONDERFUL HOLIDAY!
The FRIED CHINESE LEEK DUMPLINGS are not to be missed and you can choose to dip them in soy sauce or a soy/vinegar combo, but best is the creamy sweet garlic paste that just seems to be the best condiment around.
The SZECHUAN CABBAGE is simple and cold and not too spicy, so I added some of the marinated Chinese chili peppers, which were pretty mild as well this time around--a nice combination in the end. Once can not skip the presentation of the PEKING DUCK which is such a treat here, and our servers did it great justice! The Chinese scallions are grown on the owner's own farm in Purcelville, VA. The duck is as tender as can be and the skin is crispy and luscious. Wrap this up in the pancake with a dab of plum sauce and you are in heaven. Our other entrees were WALNUT CHICKEN which is prepared with battered chicken breast pieces in a tangy glaze (somewhat akin to sweet & sour) and served with yummy candied walnuts. Again the menu indicates this is spicy, but I thought not at all.
The SINGAPORE RICE NOODLES are an excellent choice for a bit of spice and are delicate rice noodles in a very light curry sauce, almost a film rather than a sauce.
SZECHUAN BEEF comes looking like branches of shredded beef and has that wonderful crunchy texture and a good amount of spice while the BLACK PEPPER BEEF is huge chunks of beef in a slightly spicy peppery sauce and coating.
The top dish here besides the duck will always be the JEO-YEN SHRIMP which one of us said was "like sex in my mouth." They are the best battered shrimp anywhere and come with that superb light coconut flavor.
Another seasonal treat is the GARLIC SPROUTS also from the Purcellville farm and we chose them STIR FRIED with PORK. While you can get them with shrimp or chicken, I think their strength really calls for the pork to equalize the intensity of the tasty sprout.
We needed to skip dessert, but our hosts brought a magnificent GERMAN CHOCOLATE CAKE procured from Desserts by Gerard in Oxon Hill, which we all devoured despite being so full. Sam gets to have a taste tonight! The wines were superb as well with a FOLEY 2005 SANTA RITA HILLS Pinot Noir and a 2004 SIMI Russian River Chardonnay going so well with everything.
But, boy do I need a rest before Thanksgiving. HAVE A WONDERFUL HOLIDAY!
Thursday, November 15, 2007
ramble into RUMBEROS in DC for tasty tapas and more
A new neighborhood is dawning and improving daily in Adam's Morgan/Mt.Pleasant in the Tivoli Theater corridor on 14th Street, NW and can be witnessed by the onslaught of several new upscale dining spots amongst the mid-level and low-level chains as well as the wonderful Central American spots.
RUMBEROS at 3345 14th St, NW (www.rumberos-dc.com) is actually in the Tivoli complex and sports some of the huge pillared columns from the original theater, red walls with lots of modern Latino art (for sale at reasonable prices) and suffers only a bit from a lack of great service. Once we told our pleasant server Veronica that we needed to be at the theater at 730pm, there were no problems; we just worried a bit, and then all the food came and was wonderful.
The wines are good and reasonable too. We started with a DON ARIANO 2004 Tannat-Syrah blend from Canelones in Uruguay. I joked with Veronica, asking if 2004 was a good year in Uruguay, and wouldn't you know she was Uruguayan and insisted on trying to find out! OUr second wine was even better, A TERRA NOBLE Gran Riserva CARMENERE 2005 from the Maule Valley in Chile. These are slightly tannic full bodied warm wines, just great as the cold sets in right now in DC and excellent with the full falvors of the food as well.
The four of us could not decide what to have so we boiled it down to 5 tapas selections and 2 entrees to share which was just perfect, and with the 2 bottles of wine the bill came to only $150 without tax and tip; not bad for a filling mail minus dessert.
Our tapas choices were: CAMARONES CARIBENOS al RON which were more lemony than rum tasting shrimp, but the rich buttery sauce was yummy to mop up with bread. YUCA FRITA came with a bland mojo sauce and when we asked for some aoili or such to beef it up, a mediocre chimichurri sauce arrived, which was better, could not touch that of the sauce at Guantanamera in NYC on its super hangar steak with chimichurri! This is the only dish I would avoid, while the yuca was wonderful, it really needs something better to dip in for moisture.
CALAMARES al TEQUILA were tender sauteed squid in Spanish paprika and a tasty Sherry-Vinegar sauce, also great for mopping up. I loved the slight spice in the paprika and this portion was also huge with 5 pieces each about 4 inches long and scored into ringlets.
I have always adored mofongo since visiting Puerto Rico and here is it served as a tapas MOFONGO con MARISCOS and prepared in a wooden cyclinder with the plantains battered onto the side of the wood.
Normally the tomato-sauced mixture of meat or seafood is inside this, but here it is served on the side with Garlic, Shrimp & Scallops and you can simply spoon it over the plantains after you scoop a bit out of the cylinder, or fill it up yourself if you are not sharing! It was very tasty and I would love to see several versions (perhaps lobster and pork or chicken) as an entree.
The big star tapas winner was the TORREJITA de ESPINACA which was simply akin to a spinach latke with shallots, garlic and Guayanes cheese oozing in its middle. Think cheesy cream spinach breaded and fried like a latke (but these were just sauteed or baked, cutting the fat and) giving tons of flavor!
Our two entree choices were the ROPA VIEJA served of course with Rice & Beans (as everything is) and it was a tasty one as well, but again, not as excellent as that I just had recently in Guantanamera in NYC. The RED SNAPPER with Seafood Sauce was a treat with the sauce actually having a light tomato base with mussels, shrimp and calamari as well. The fish was excellent, and I would like to try other fish on a later visit, because I know we will return to Rumberos!
RUMBEROS at 3345 14th St, NW (www.rumberos-dc.com) is actually in the Tivoli complex and sports some of the huge pillared columns from the original theater, red walls with lots of modern Latino art (for sale at reasonable prices) and suffers only a bit from a lack of great service. Once we told our pleasant server Veronica that we needed to be at the theater at 730pm, there were no problems; we just worried a bit, and then all the food came and was wonderful.
The wines are good and reasonable too. We started with a DON ARIANO 2004 Tannat-Syrah blend from Canelones in Uruguay. I joked with Veronica, asking if 2004 was a good year in Uruguay, and wouldn't you know she was Uruguayan and insisted on trying to find out! OUr second wine was even better, A TERRA NOBLE Gran Riserva CARMENERE 2005 from the Maule Valley in Chile. These are slightly tannic full bodied warm wines, just great as the cold sets in right now in DC and excellent with the full falvors of the food as well.
The four of us could not decide what to have so we boiled it down to 5 tapas selections and 2 entrees to share which was just perfect, and with the 2 bottles of wine the bill came to only $150 without tax and tip; not bad for a filling mail minus dessert.
Our tapas choices were: CAMARONES CARIBENOS al RON which were more lemony than rum tasting shrimp, but the rich buttery sauce was yummy to mop up with bread. YUCA FRITA came with a bland mojo sauce and when we asked for some aoili or such to beef it up, a mediocre chimichurri sauce arrived, which was better, could not touch that of the sauce at Guantanamera in NYC on its super hangar steak with chimichurri! This is the only dish I would avoid, while the yuca was wonderful, it really needs something better to dip in for moisture.
CALAMARES al TEQUILA were tender sauteed squid in Spanish paprika and a tasty Sherry-Vinegar sauce, also great for mopping up. I loved the slight spice in the paprika and this portion was also huge with 5 pieces each about 4 inches long and scored into ringlets.
I have always adored mofongo since visiting Puerto Rico and here is it served as a tapas MOFONGO con MARISCOS and prepared in a wooden cyclinder with the plantains battered onto the side of the wood.
Normally the tomato-sauced mixture of meat or seafood is inside this, but here it is served on the side with Garlic, Shrimp & Scallops and you can simply spoon it over the plantains after you scoop a bit out of the cylinder, or fill it up yourself if you are not sharing! It was very tasty and I would love to see several versions (perhaps lobster and pork or chicken) as an entree.
The big star tapas winner was the TORREJITA de ESPINACA which was simply akin to a spinach latke with shallots, garlic and Guayanes cheese oozing in its middle. Think cheesy cream spinach breaded and fried like a latke (but these were just sauteed or baked, cutting the fat and) giving tons of flavor!
Our two entree choices were the ROPA VIEJA served of course with Rice & Beans (as everything is) and it was a tasty one as well, but again, not as excellent as that I just had recently in Guantanamera in NYC. The RED SNAPPER with Seafood Sauce was a treat with the sauce actually having a light tomato base with mussels, shrimp and calamari as well. The fish was excellent, and I would like to try other fish on a later visit, because I know we will return to Rumberos!
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Super service and surprises at SPEZIE
Last night we were invited to SPEZIE (1736 L St, NW - www.spezie.com) where we discovered an old friend who had disappeared from the restaurant scene in DC for a short while. Award winning Chef CESARE LANFRANCONI who ran the kitchen at Tosca for so many years, is now in charge at this warm charming little spot, that we did not even know existed, and he is doing miracles in their kitchen.
Our set menu was no less than a revelation and was accompanied by superb wines: LA CALA Vermentino di Sardegna was a crisp and fruity white that was perfect with the ROASTED MAINE SCALLOPS with RED BEET, Cured Lemon Salad and Creamy Sea Urchin Sauce. I switched to the delicious red, a wine I always enjoy with lighter meats and pastas: MICHELE CHIARLO Barbera d'Asti "Le Orme" and it, too, was perfect with the two pastas served simultaneously: HOMEMADE RAVIOLI Stuffed with ROASTED PUMPKIN & AMARETTO COOKIES with Fresh SAGE & PARMESAN SAUCE & HOMEMADE PAPPARDELLE with WILD BOARD & CHANTERELLE RAGU. These are two of my favorite types of pasta and sauces as well, and all we could do was rave, rave, rave!
The ROASTED VEAL FILET with BATTUTO SPINACH and Roasted Potatoes, Porcini Mushroom Sauce was delectable and by this time I think we all agreed, the meal was sheer perfection, as was the superb staff and service.
Dessert was a DOUBLE CHOCOLATE & HAZELNUT MOUSSE Cake with Seasonal Berries & Vanilla Sauce which I ate evry single bit of, and most folks know I tend NOT to finish desserts these days; enough said!
We look forward to returning to SPEZIE and seeing our old pal Cesare in the kitchen again many more times; it was great to find him doing so well!
Our set menu was no less than a revelation and was accompanied by superb wines: LA CALA Vermentino di Sardegna was a crisp and fruity white that was perfect with the ROASTED MAINE SCALLOPS with RED BEET, Cured Lemon Salad and Creamy Sea Urchin Sauce. I switched to the delicious red, a wine I always enjoy with lighter meats and pastas: MICHELE CHIARLO Barbera d'Asti "Le Orme" and it, too, was perfect with the two pastas served simultaneously: HOMEMADE RAVIOLI Stuffed with ROASTED PUMPKIN & AMARETTO COOKIES with Fresh SAGE & PARMESAN SAUCE & HOMEMADE PAPPARDELLE with WILD BOARD & CHANTERELLE RAGU. These are two of my favorite types of pasta and sauces as well, and all we could do was rave, rave, rave!
The ROASTED VEAL FILET with BATTUTO SPINACH and Roasted Potatoes, Porcini Mushroom Sauce was delectable and by this time I think we all agreed, the meal was sheer perfection, as was the superb staff and service.
Dessert was a DOUBLE CHOCOLATE & HAZELNUT MOUSSE Cake with Seasonal Berries & Vanilla Sauce which I ate evry single bit of, and most folks know I tend NOT to finish desserts these days; enough said!
We look forward to returning to SPEZIE and seeing our old pal Cesare in the kitchen again many more times; it was great to find him doing so well!
Thursday, October 25, 2007
always lovin' LA MICHE
Last night we returned to LA MICHE (www.lamiche.com) in Bethesda after a way too long absence and still find the traditional French cuisine to be even better. We started the evening with Cava Sparkling (forgot the brand) and went right to red wine with a BOURGOGNE Hautes Cotes de Nuits Pinot Noir from Henri & Gilles Remoriquet in Nuit Saint Georges which was light bodied, but just right on a starting to get chilly fall evening.
Everyone had the same appetizer which was a fabulous combination plate consisting of: Green Lip Mussel and Crab Beignets (fritter) with caviar tartar sauce and Quail with Goji Berries in red wine served over thin slices of Yellow & Green Zucchini.
There were so many flavors and I opted to start with the seafood fritter and move to the quail as the sauce was richer and the berries intense. They both went well with the wine and we were all quite happy.
The entrees were varied and went from SALMON IMPERIAL to a superb ALASKAN HALIBUT with ARTICHOKE, CRAB & CAPER Lemon Butter Sauce to Frenched RACK of LAMB with Ratatouille, French Beans & Potatoes. I opted for the decadent VEAL RIB CHOP with OYSTER CREAM SAUCE which came with Roasted Potatoes and perfectly cooked French Green Beans. The meat was tender and tasty, but it was the sauce that was so novel and wonderful. There were a half dozen oysters or more in the rich sauce itself to boot!
With dinner a SANCERRE "La Crele" 2005 from Thomas & Fils was available for the fish folk, while us meat eaters went for the wonderful and bigger COTES du RHONE VILLAGES 2004 Rasteau from Tardieu-Laurent.
Desserts were varied as well and most gobbled up the CHOCOLATE GANACHE CAKE or a Chocolate ECLAIR, while I indulged in a superb light GRAND MARNIER SOUFFLE. There were also two dessert wines to satisfy the wide variety of desserts. A lighter, yet sweet DOMAINE de la MALETIE 2002 MONTBAZILLAC, while many of us preferred the sweeter heavier OLIVARES 2003 DULCE MONASTRELL.
After a round of port we all headed home sure that we won't keep away from La Miche as long next time! I'm hoping to attend their next wine dinner which is scheduled for December 5.
Everyone had the same appetizer which was a fabulous combination plate consisting of: Green Lip Mussel and Crab Beignets (fritter) with caviar tartar sauce and Quail with Goji Berries in red wine served over thin slices of Yellow & Green Zucchini.
There were so many flavors and I opted to start with the seafood fritter and move to the quail as the sauce was richer and the berries intense. They both went well with the wine and we were all quite happy.
The entrees were varied and went from SALMON IMPERIAL to a superb ALASKAN HALIBUT with ARTICHOKE, CRAB & CAPER Lemon Butter Sauce to Frenched RACK of LAMB with Ratatouille, French Beans & Potatoes. I opted for the decadent VEAL RIB CHOP with OYSTER CREAM SAUCE which came with Roasted Potatoes and perfectly cooked French Green Beans. The meat was tender and tasty, but it was the sauce that was so novel and wonderful. There were a half dozen oysters or more in the rich sauce itself to boot!
With dinner a SANCERRE "La Crele" 2005 from Thomas & Fils was available for the fish folk, while us meat eaters went for the wonderful and bigger COTES du RHONE VILLAGES 2004 Rasteau from Tardieu-Laurent.
Desserts were varied as well and most gobbled up the CHOCOLATE GANACHE CAKE or a Chocolate ECLAIR, while I indulged in a superb light GRAND MARNIER SOUFFLE. There were also two dessert wines to satisfy the wide variety of desserts. A lighter, yet sweet DOMAINE de la MALETIE 2002 MONTBAZILLAC, while many of us preferred the sweeter heavier OLIVARES 2003 DULCE MONASTRELL.
After a round of port we all headed home sure that we won't keep away from La Miche as long next time! I'm hoping to attend their next wine dinner which is scheduled for December 5.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
NATSUMI is neat in NYC
I first went to NATSUMI (www.natsuminyc.com) near Times Square at 226 West 50th Street back in the spring right when it opened and was very impressed with the "Italian" infused Asian cuisine. I returned last night with a client and five others and we had a smashingly fabulous time.
While munching the wonderful edamame I tried two different sakes and preferred the house brand BIZEN MABOROSHI Junmai Gingo ($11/glass) which is sooo smooth and elegant, and the floral and less smooth ONIKOROSHI WAKATAKE was nice as well but not as satiusfying for my palate.
As the guests arrived I ordered a BUTTERFLY GREEN TEA RAVIOLI Appetizer which was stuffed wtih LOBSTER & SHITAKE in a Lobster Biqsue Sauce. It was yummy, but not easy to get into the chopsticks! I also tasted the excellent FRIED CALAMARI that was accompanied by a super light dipping sauce (soy based with spice). The dumplings came in so many forms I know not what I had, but they were all superb. A house NATSUMI Veronese White from Fruili was a refreshing choce of wine for these dishes as well.
The entrees were very varied around the table and I thought the least exciting was the Seafood Tempura Platter as the sauce was not that great. BUT, my NATSUMI ROLL was spectacular. Made from TUNA, Spicy Tuna, Avocado, Green APPLE for a bite, BASIL and topped with Gold Leaf for beauty. The server suggested I use the soy sauce combined with the house aged BALSAMIC rather than soy alone or with wasabi. It was brilliant. Everything at the table got raves from our group as I departed for the airport, alas with no dessert, but remembering the FRIED CHEESECAKE I had earlier this year and knowing I will be back soon!
While munching the wonderful edamame I tried two different sakes and preferred the house brand BIZEN MABOROSHI Junmai Gingo ($11/glass) which is sooo smooth and elegant, and the floral and less smooth ONIKOROSHI WAKATAKE was nice as well but not as satiusfying for my palate.
As the guests arrived I ordered a BUTTERFLY GREEN TEA RAVIOLI Appetizer which was stuffed wtih LOBSTER & SHITAKE in a Lobster Biqsue Sauce. It was yummy, but not easy to get into the chopsticks! I also tasted the excellent FRIED CALAMARI that was accompanied by a super light dipping sauce (soy based with spice). The dumplings came in so many forms I know not what I had, but they were all superb. A house NATSUMI Veronese White from Fruili was a refreshing choce of wine for these dishes as well.
The entrees were very varied around the table and I thought the least exciting was the Seafood Tempura Platter as the sauce was not that great. BUT, my NATSUMI ROLL was spectacular. Made from TUNA, Spicy Tuna, Avocado, Green APPLE for a bite, BASIL and topped with Gold Leaf for beauty. The server suggested I use the soy sauce combined with the house aged BALSAMIC rather than soy alone or with wasabi. It was brilliant. Everything at the table got raves from our group as I departed for the airport, alas with no dessert, but remembering the FRIED CHEESECAKE I had earlier this year and knowing I will be back soon!
Saturday, October 20, 2007
stil going to GUANTANAMERA in NYCity
I was happy to find a new theater district place at Gelsi on Friday, but yesterday and today I am returning to old favorites. Last night it was GUANTANAMERA (which will open a new sister restaurant soon in Spanish Harlem on the very upper east side) and I was as pleased as I always am.
Located in a narrow spot on the west side of 8th Avenue between 55th and 56th Streets, you could easily miss this spot, but once inside, you know you are in a Cuban dining spot, as the lights are low, the music is beating and everyone is having a good time. On a Saturday this starts with lunch, continues throw post-matinee and pre-evening theater and goes way into the night once the live band starts later in the evening!
My friend and I enjoyed a yummy pitcher of the RED SANGRIA while he had a bowl of CHICKEN SOUP laden with chunks of chicken, vegetables and AVOCADO. My ENSALATA la PALMA REAL is still a treat with field greens, piles of avocado and artichoke hearts and shaved parmesan. At $9.00 it is one of the best salad deals in NY City.
For entrees we had the VEGETARIAN PAELLA which was another huge dish laden with all kinds of fresh sauteed veggies and my ROPA VIEJA (the first time having it here) was beautifully served in a small basket made from crisp plantains, but filled to overflowing (there had to be almost a 1/2 pound of hangar steak), shredded and sauteed with great seasonings and not overdone at all. The rice was perfect and I smothered it with the bowl of BLACK BEANS that comes on the side of most dishes here, I often order the great steak with chimichurri sauce and now I find that both of these beef dishes (though so dissimilar) are great treats!
The cappunccino was great and we could not eat a bite more before I headed to see a wonderful revival of the comedy The Ritz with a super cast nearby!
Located in a narrow spot on the west side of 8th Avenue between 55th and 56th Streets, you could easily miss this spot, but once inside, you know you are in a Cuban dining spot, as the lights are low, the music is beating and everyone is having a good time. On a Saturday this starts with lunch, continues throw post-matinee and pre-evening theater and goes way into the night once the live band starts later in the evening!
My friend and I enjoyed a yummy pitcher of the RED SANGRIA while he had a bowl of CHICKEN SOUP laden with chunks of chicken, vegetables and AVOCADO. My ENSALATA la PALMA REAL is still a treat with field greens, piles of avocado and artichoke hearts and shaved parmesan. At $9.00 it is one of the best salad deals in NY City.
For entrees we had the VEGETARIAN PAELLA which was another huge dish laden with all kinds of fresh sauteed veggies and my ROPA VIEJA (the first time having it here) was beautifully served in a small basket made from crisp plantains, but filled to overflowing (there had to be almost a 1/2 pound of hangar steak), shredded and sauteed with great seasonings and not overdone at all. The rice was perfect and I smothered it with the bowl of BLACK BEANS that comes on the side of most dishes here, I often order the great steak with chimichurri sauce and now I find that both of these beef dishes (though so dissimilar) are great treats!
The cappunccino was great and we could not eat a bite more before I headed to see a wonderful revival of the comedy The Ritz with a super cast nearby!
Friday, October 19, 2007
between Hells' Kitchen & Chelsea there's OSTERIA GELSI
Last night before I took in the new Broadway musical Young Frankenstein, I wandered several blocks south and west of the theater district to OSTERIA GELSI at 507 9th Ave (at 38th Street; www.GelsiNYC.com) which features the cuisine of the Puglia region. There were many choices on the menu, but I could not resist the specials my server mentioned.
The menu did NOT indicate that 1/2 portions of pasta were available, so I asked--and they were ( a shame they don't advertise this). The wine list also only lists bottles and the 8 or 9 wines that are available by the glass are reeled off by varietal (Pinot Grigio, Chard, etc) so that you have no clue as to their quality and price. Another BIG failure. I ordered a glass of a Sicilian Chardonnay which I believe was called Catarata, but I haven't a clue, and sadly could'nt glean any more information, although it was nice. A tiny amuse of tomato bruschetta came and then I had the PUMPKIN GNOCCHI that were a revelation. Prepared in a butter sauce with a TOMATO Confit, Mushrooms, teensy weensy fried onions and fried sage leaves that were superb, it was a masterful combination and quite filling at the 1.2 size for $10.00.
The TUNA Special followed cooked in a Light Tomato/White Wine Sauce with roasted Whole Garlic Cloves, Capers, Olives, Caperberries and magnificently assembled on top of Roasted Potatoes & Sauteed Green Beans. Sadly, by the time the place was filling up and what had started as two ladies at the bar and had grown to seven ladies at the bar, became a table of seven very loud ladies next to me.
I was too full for dessert, but ordered coffee and got four wonderful hazelnut biscotti with it that was just perfect. They were not hard (I hate them that way), but slightly chewy and so yummy when dipped in the coffee.
I decided the ladies weren't that bad, paid and left quite full, but not overwhelmed too much to hate the show (which was funny and will probably be a big hit!).
The menu did NOT indicate that 1/2 portions of pasta were available, so I asked--and they were ( a shame they don't advertise this). The wine list also only lists bottles and the 8 or 9 wines that are available by the glass are reeled off by varietal (Pinot Grigio, Chard, etc) so that you have no clue as to their quality and price. Another BIG failure. I ordered a glass of a Sicilian Chardonnay which I believe was called Catarata, but I haven't a clue, and sadly could'nt glean any more information, although it was nice. A tiny amuse of tomato bruschetta came and then I had the PUMPKIN GNOCCHI that were a revelation. Prepared in a butter sauce with a TOMATO Confit, Mushrooms, teensy weensy fried onions and fried sage leaves that were superb, it was a masterful combination and quite filling at the 1.2 size for $10.00.
The TUNA Special followed cooked in a Light Tomato/White Wine Sauce with roasted Whole Garlic Cloves, Capers, Olives, Caperberries and magnificently assembled on top of Roasted Potatoes & Sauteed Green Beans. Sadly, by the time the place was filling up and what had started as two ladies at the bar and had grown to seven ladies at the bar, became a table of seven very loud ladies next to me.
I was too full for dessert, but ordered coffee and got four wonderful hazelnut biscotti with it that was just perfect. They were not hard (I hate them that way), but slightly chewy and so yummy when dipped in the coffee.
I decided the ladies weren't that bad, paid and left quite full, but not overwhelmed too much to hate the show (which was funny and will probably be a big hit!).
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Puerto Rican report from Phyllis' husband in Chicago
Last week Sam and I made our bi-annual trip up to the Windy City to visit friends, Joe and Victor and their four year old Joel. On Saturday afternoon we decided to go look for a nice place to eat for lunch with the boys. At our first stop called "Feed" we were told that even though it was noon we were not able to order lunch for another half an hour. Only breakfast was being served at that time. We decided that we were not in the mood for pancakes and hash so we left and made our way back to the car. After about a ten minute drive we stopped in an area that is primarily Puerto Rican. There were HUGE wrought iron Puerto Rican flags over the roadways. After a little walking around we walked into this small very unpretentious little cafe/diner. My friend Joe and I were the only non Latino folks there. The place was called LATIN AMERICAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE (2743 W Division St, Chicago, IL 60622. 1-773-235-7290). They have a web site (www.latinamericanrestaurantchicago.com), but it is down right now.
This place was so mismatched it was adorable. There were a number of different types of chairs and a large selection of mismatched plates to use at a buffet table. In the back of the place there were two big computer game machines, which Sam and Joel were fascinated with. Both of them had large half naked women on them (could this be what the boys found fascinating?). Anyway, we spotted that they had a buffet which looked very nice so we decided to partake. On the buffet were the following,
Yellow Rice and Gandules Beans
Brown Rice and Calamari
Plain White Rice
Herb Baked Chicken
Red Beans with Pumpkin Pieces
Chicken Noodle Soup
Macaroni with Chicken
Fried Plantains
Roasted Pulled Pork
Puerto Rican Tamales
Goat Stew
Green Salad
Everything was freshly cooked and it seemed to be removed and replaced on a regular basis. ALL of the meat was juicy and tasty. Sam particularly liked the fried plantains. My personal favorite was the pulled pork which was so flavorful it erupted in your mouth. I had never had Gandules beans before which were yummy in the yellow rice (not one single dried out grain). The Puerto Rican Tamales were like little silver foil wrapped gifts from the gods. The wonderful aroma oozed out as we opened them up and they tasted just as good as they smelled.
Afterwards (which I guess was part of the deal we were handed a plate with three coconut puddings with maraschino cherries on top. I am not usually a pudding type of guy, but these were something else. Creamy with a coconut taste that just melted in your mouth. We gave the boys the maraschino cherries as a bit of extra dessert. Sorry we did not partake in wines and such, as it just wasn't that type of place; the diet coke was lovely. I was so impressed with the food at this place that I just had to meet the chef. Out came this sweet and quiet, young Puerto Rican lady who proudly told me what all of the different dishes were in her broken English (shame on me for not learning Spanish at this point). I told her how thrilled we were and that I was going to let everyone know on an e-mail list just how wonderful her food was. She smiled and said "gracias, senor" and returned to the kitchen. I hope that she didn't think I was a bit of a whacko as I do get quite excited when I have great food.
When our bill arrived we were shocked to see that the buffet was ONLY $5.99 per adult and $3.99 per child. This is for UNLIMITED food. WHAT A DEAL!!!! If any of you are ever in Chicago on a weekend and fancy a real treat for a great price, check out Latin American Restaurant & Lounge. This is Phyllis's husband handing you back to Phyllis.
This place was so mismatched it was adorable. There were a number of different types of chairs and a large selection of mismatched plates to use at a buffet table. In the back of the place there were two big computer game machines, which Sam and Joel were fascinated with. Both of them had large half naked women on them (could this be what the boys found fascinating?). Anyway, we spotted that they had a buffet which looked very nice so we decided to partake. On the buffet were the following,
Yellow Rice and Gandules Beans
Brown Rice and Calamari
Plain White Rice
Herb Baked Chicken
Red Beans with Pumpkin Pieces
Chicken Noodle Soup
Macaroni with Chicken
Fried Plantains
Roasted Pulled Pork
Puerto Rican Tamales
Goat Stew
Green Salad
Everything was freshly cooked and it seemed to be removed and replaced on a regular basis. ALL of the meat was juicy and tasty. Sam particularly liked the fried plantains. My personal favorite was the pulled pork which was so flavorful it erupted in your mouth. I had never had Gandules beans before which were yummy in the yellow rice (not one single dried out grain). The Puerto Rican Tamales were like little silver foil wrapped gifts from the gods. The wonderful aroma oozed out as we opened them up and they tasted just as good as they smelled.
Afterwards (which I guess was part of the deal we were handed a plate with three coconut puddings with maraschino cherries on top. I am not usually a pudding type of guy, but these were something else. Creamy with a coconut taste that just melted in your mouth. We gave the boys the maraschino cherries as a bit of extra dessert. Sorry we did not partake in wines and such, as it just wasn't that type of place; the diet coke was lovely. I was so impressed with the food at this place that I just had to meet the chef. Out came this sweet and quiet, young Puerto Rican lady who proudly told me what all of the different dishes were in her broken English (shame on me for not learning Spanish at this point). I told her how thrilled we were and that I was going to let everyone know on an e-mail list just how wonderful her food was. She smiled and said "gracias, senor" and returned to the kitchen. I hope that she didn't think I was a bit of a whacko as I do get quite excited when I have great food.
When our bill arrived we were shocked to see that the buffet was ONLY $5.99 per adult and $3.99 per child. This is for UNLIMITED food. WHAT A DEAL!!!! If any of you are ever in Chicago on a weekend and fancy a real treat for a great price, check out Latin American Restaurant & Lounge. This is Phyllis's husband handing you back to Phyllis.
Sunday, October 14, 2007
you gotta love LIBERTY TAVERN (Arlington, VA)
Sunday night we headed out to dinner with Samuel, his friend Joshua, and Joshua's daddies for a wonderful and filling evening at the new LIBERTY TAVERN in Clarendon (www.thelibertytavern.com) which we will definitely return to again very soon.
The menu from Chef Liam LaCivita offers a mix of Italian, New England (his roots) and more, and it is very hard to decide WHAT to have:pizza, pasta, fish, meat or other! We started with a bottle of KURT ANGERER "KIES" Gruner Veltliner 2005 from Austria full of grapefruit and very refreshing. The wine list is pretty decent and has many good selections in the $30-50 range. We later changed to a FEDUO MACCARI "Re Noto" NERO d'AVOLA 2005 from Sicily which was a medium bodied red with cherry jam overtones. Our final and best wine was a KILIKANOON "Killerman's Ridge" Shiraz 2004 from Clare Valley which the menu described as blackberry with charcoal and very voluptuous, and while we agreed, there was also a strong tobacco essence.
Samuel wolfed down his plain pizza, an amazing $8 or $9 deal with eight HUGE slices (1/2 went home for eating later in the week!). Joshua liked the MAC & CHEESE which came with several side options and he chose fresh fruit which consisted of blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, apple and more--quite impressive for a kid's menu! The bread is made in house and is yummy, especially the brioche style
rolls.
The portions are LARGE from the monstrous FRITTO MISTO appetizer of calamari, clam strips, haddock and fennel all nicely fried with a very rich thick creamy aioli, but just too much. The salads are gorgeous and one of us tried the APPLE ENDIVE which is made with impressive Great Hill Blue Cheese, spicy pecans, tarragon buttermilk dressing and sauteed bacon bits.
Pastas are good too (but they were out of the gnocchi) with BAKED GARGANELLI coming in a smoked tomato cream sauce with pancetta and bufala ricotta "Bella Vitano."
Pizzas are a big hit here and we all loved the AUTUMN PIZZA of wild mushroom, potato, pancetta, rosemary and robiola cheese as well as the ADAM's LINGUICA with crushed tomato, mozzarella, oregano and the now almost famous housemade Linguica sausage (so who is Adam?).
I opted for the "Sunday Dinner" which is a three course fixed price special for an amazing $25 that changes weekly.This week it featured a small (the only small thing on the menu, I think) appetizer of beautifully sauteed MUSSELS with SHALLOTS, WHITE WINE & CHILES.
Luckily it was not too large, because the entree was a monstrous dish entitled NEW ENGLAND "BOLLITO MISTO" which needed more explanation on the menu. It will go on the fall menu this week, we later learned from Chef Liam, and is a dish NOT TO MISS. The fajita style hot plate comes with VEAL CHEEK, VEAL BREAST, COTTOCCHINO (sp?) Sausage and Hangar Steak as well as nice autumn vegetables: Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes.
It is somewhat like a stew, but with a thicker and lesser amount of sauce. The dish was supposed to come with Salsa Verde and Apple Mostarda for dipping a la Bollito Misto style, but somehow it got left behind. It didn't really matter as the meat was so tasty it needed NOTHING. I could not finish the dish and look forward to the leftovers tonight with the sauces which they gave me to take home!
The "Sunday Dinner" came with a gorgeous dessert from taste to presentation of HONEY & VANILLA PANNA COTTA with Caramelized Figs. The two timbales of custard were at opposite ends of a long narrow dish joined by a bridge atop them of simple thin baked pastry like a long cookie. It was all superb and so amazing for only $25 TOTAL!
The boys spotted the RED VELVET Cake earlier at the next table and we gave in allowing them each to have a bite while we munched on the rest/ It is a devil's food cake with Cream Cheese and Meringue Frosting, definitely for cake-aholics.
One of the funnier events of the evening was when I was telling the story of Samuel's night out the week before and how he got the waiter's attention when we wanted ground pepper by yelling, "EXCUSE ME." Well, in my repetition of the story, the maitre d' spotted me and ran over to see what I needed as I waved my hand in the air calling, "EXCUSE ME!" We laughed hysterically as we told the story to him! At least Liberty Tavern has jovial, helpful and attentive service worth going back for!
The menu from Chef Liam LaCivita offers a mix of Italian, New England (his roots) and more, and it is very hard to decide WHAT to have:pizza, pasta, fish, meat or other! We started with a bottle of KURT ANGERER "KIES" Gruner Veltliner 2005 from Austria full of grapefruit and very refreshing. The wine list is pretty decent and has many good selections in the $30-50 range. We later changed to a FEDUO MACCARI "Re Noto" NERO d'AVOLA 2005 from Sicily which was a medium bodied red with cherry jam overtones. Our final and best wine was a KILIKANOON "Killerman's Ridge" Shiraz 2004 from Clare Valley which the menu described as blackberry with charcoal and very voluptuous, and while we agreed, there was also a strong tobacco essence.
Samuel wolfed down his plain pizza, an amazing $8 or $9 deal with eight HUGE slices (1/2 went home for eating later in the week!). Joshua liked the MAC & CHEESE which came with several side options and he chose fresh fruit which consisted of blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, apple and more--quite impressive for a kid's menu! The bread is made in house and is yummy, especially the brioche style
rolls.
The portions are LARGE from the monstrous FRITTO MISTO appetizer of calamari, clam strips, haddock and fennel all nicely fried with a very rich thick creamy aioli, but just too much. The salads are gorgeous and one of us tried the APPLE ENDIVE which is made with impressive Great Hill Blue Cheese, spicy pecans, tarragon buttermilk dressing and sauteed bacon bits.
Pastas are good too (but they were out of the gnocchi) with BAKED GARGANELLI coming in a smoked tomato cream sauce with pancetta and bufala ricotta "Bella Vitano."
Pizzas are a big hit here and we all loved the AUTUMN PIZZA of wild mushroom, potato, pancetta, rosemary and robiola cheese as well as the ADAM's LINGUICA with crushed tomato, mozzarella, oregano and the now almost famous housemade Linguica sausage (so who is Adam?).
I opted for the "Sunday Dinner" which is a three course fixed price special for an amazing $25 that changes weekly.This week it featured a small (the only small thing on the menu, I think) appetizer of beautifully sauteed MUSSELS with SHALLOTS, WHITE WINE & CHILES.
Luckily it was not too large, because the entree was a monstrous dish entitled NEW ENGLAND "BOLLITO MISTO" which needed more explanation on the menu. It will go on the fall menu this week, we later learned from Chef Liam, and is a dish NOT TO MISS. The fajita style hot plate comes with VEAL CHEEK, VEAL BREAST, COTTOCCHINO (sp?) Sausage and Hangar Steak as well as nice autumn vegetables: Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes.
It is somewhat like a stew, but with a thicker and lesser amount of sauce. The dish was supposed to come with Salsa Verde and Apple Mostarda for dipping a la Bollito Misto style, but somehow it got left behind. It didn't really matter as the meat was so tasty it needed NOTHING. I could not finish the dish and look forward to the leftovers tonight with the sauces which they gave me to take home!
The "Sunday Dinner" came with a gorgeous dessert from taste to presentation of HONEY & VANILLA PANNA COTTA with Caramelized Figs. The two timbales of custard were at opposite ends of a long narrow dish joined by a bridge atop them of simple thin baked pastry like a long cookie. It was all superb and so amazing for only $25 TOTAL!
The boys spotted the RED VELVET Cake earlier at the next table and we gave in allowing them each to have a bite while we munched on the rest/ It is a devil's food cake with Cream Cheese and Meringue Frosting, definitely for cake-aholics.
One of the funnier events of the evening was when I was telling the story of Samuel's night out the week before and how he got the waiter's attention when we wanted ground pepper by yelling, "EXCUSE ME." Well, in my repetition of the story, the maitre d' spotted me and ran over to see what I needed as I waved my hand in the air calling, "EXCUSE ME!" We laughed hysterically as we told the story to him! At least Liberty Tavern has jovial, helpful and attentive service worth going back for!
Tuesday, October 09, 2007
finally FISH & CHIPS that can't be beat at EAMONN's
Earlier this year, Cathal Armstong, his wife Meshelle and their brilliant team from Restaurant Eve (he is DC winner for Chef of the Year) opened another venue and now have a total of four in Alexandria. EAMONN's, a DUBLIN CHIPPER is located at 728 King Street (just a block off Washington - www.eamonnsdublinchipper.com) and is aptly named for their son. This is NOT your average fast food place, and we were thrilled to finally make it there last night to celebrate Will's birthday (who is at heart a true fish & chips lover from the north of England, where some argue it all started).
There are several wooden tables and benches and an order counter where each order is freshly prepared and fried. Last night, Michael was in charge and he did a fine job (as did the kitchen staff) taking our group's large and confusing order. We had almost everything on the menu and it is a varied one at that from Fried Prawns to Fried Chicken Nuggets (move over McDonald's) which are huge chunks of juicy meat battered and fried to perfection. There are fried burgers too! But one comes here for the traditional FRIED COD (the eatery's motto, emblazoned on the door is "thanks be to cod" which can be ordered in two sizes (get the large) and then smothered with either vinegar or a number of dipping options, which are great on the huge tasty FRENCH FRIES that are simply to die for.
There was a special fish last night and I went for the fresh DEEP FRIED GROUPER which was moist and excellent and very flavorful. While our Brit in residence preferred the simple malt vinegar, I moved from bite to bite with varied sauces as well as the vinegar. There was traditional TARTAR, HOT CHILI (with cilantro and lime), FRONCH (or French Dijon Mustard with mayo), CHESAPEAKE (Mayo and Old Bay Seasoning), a fabulous CURRY sauce which is slightly spicy and slightly sweet and totally reminiscent of those Indian spots in the UK we have visited. It was the two sauces named for women(and I know not why) that grabbed my attention: MARIE ROSE which is ketchup (hence the rose, I guess), mayo, lemon and tabasco for a slight spiciness and the KITTY O'SHEA made from mayo with olives and sundried tomatoes. Imagine dipping each fry in a different one of these and it's like a multi-course tasting menu!
There are exciting and traditional side dishes as well: Chunky COLESLAW is vinegar based and refreshing, the BAKED BEANS are actually imported from Ireland, and also reminiscent of those we have had in the UK. You see, even Heinz Baked Beans taste different in the UK as the ingredients vary over there! These are all very traditional, unsweetened and tasty beans that one seems to find so rarely here in the USA anymore. Finally, the most exciting side to find here in the US is MUSHY PEAS, which is exactly what is sounds like, but tastes a million times better and just doesn't seem to be easily replicated this side of the pond.
There are, of course, beers and two wines available and our beer drinkers seemed happy while the rest of us drank ken Forrester Chenin Blanc from South Africa (an excellent choice with the fried food). There is also a Pinot Noir if you are in a red mood. Non-alcoholic drinkers will find many options including the oh-so-rare Ribena blackcurrant juice.
While we were lucky enough to get a small miniature PINK BIRTHDAY CAKE sent over by our friends at Eve (it is a standard on the menu at Eve), we were all able to divvy it up so everyone got a bite. Speaking of dessert, should you still be hungry, there are a variety of candies available, but you really must go for the FRIED MARS BAR, a delicacy that will guarantee to boost your cholesterol and blood pressure to unseen amounts, but leave you truly in fried chocolate heaven. You can opt between the The FRIED SNICKERS BAR which is saltier from the peanuts, the FRIED MARS BAR or even a FRIED MILKY WAY; all are superb (be careful not to burn your mouth!).
As we left, we were all in agreement, but Will furthered the motion that EAMONN's is the best fish & chips this side of the pond!
There are several wooden tables and benches and an order counter where each order is freshly prepared and fried. Last night, Michael was in charge and he did a fine job (as did the kitchen staff) taking our group's large and confusing order. We had almost everything on the menu and it is a varied one at that from Fried Prawns to Fried Chicken Nuggets (move over McDonald's) which are huge chunks of juicy meat battered and fried to perfection. There are fried burgers too! But one comes here for the traditional FRIED COD (the eatery's motto, emblazoned on the door is "thanks be to cod" which can be ordered in two sizes (get the large) and then smothered with either vinegar or a number of dipping options, which are great on the huge tasty FRENCH FRIES that are simply to die for.
There was a special fish last night and I went for the fresh DEEP FRIED GROUPER which was moist and excellent and very flavorful. While our Brit in residence preferred the simple malt vinegar, I moved from bite to bite with varied sauces as well as the vinegar. There was traditional TARTAR, HOT CHILI (with cilantro and lime), FRONCH (or French Dijon Mustard with mayo), CHESAPEAKE (Mayo and Old Bay Seasoning), a fabulous CURRY sauce which is slightly spicy and slightly sweet and totally reminiscent of those Indian spots in the UK we have visited. It was the two sauces named for women(and I know not why) that grabbed my attention: MARIE ROSE which is ketchup (hence the rose, I guess), mayo, lemon and tabasco for a slight spiciness and the KITTY O'SHEA made from mayo with olives and sundried tomatoes. Imagine dipping each fry in a different one of these and it's like a multi-course tasting menu!
There are exciting and traditional side dishes as well: Chunky COLESLAW is vinegar based and refreshing, the BAKED BEANS are actually imported from Ireland, and also reminiscent of those we have had in the UK. You see, even Heinz Baked Beans taste different in the UK as the ingredients vary over there! These are all very traditional, unsweetened and tasty beans that one seems to find so rarely here in the USA anymore. Finally, the most exciting side to find here in the US is MUSHY PEAS, which is exactly what is sounds like, but tastes a million times better and just doesn't seem to be easily replicated this side of the pond.
There are, of course, beers and two wines available and our beer drinkers seemed happy while the rest of us drank ken Forrester Chenin Blanc from South Africa (an excellent choice with the fried food). There is also a Pinot Noir if you are in a red mood. Non-alcoholic drinkers will find many options including the oh-so-rare Ribena blackcurrant juice.
While we were lucky enough to get a small miniature PINK BIRTHDAY CAKE sent over by our friends at Eve (it is a standard on the menu at Eve), we were all able to divvy it up so everyone got a bite. Speaking of dessert, should you still be hungry, there are a variety of candies available, but you really must go for the FRIED MARS BAR, a delicacy that will guarantee to boost your cholesterol and blood pressure to unseen amounts, but leave you truly in fried chocolate heaven. You can opt between the The FRIED SNICKERS BAR which is saltier from the peanuts, the FRIED MARS BAR or even a FRIED MILKY WAY; all are superb (be careful not to burn your mouth!).
As we left, we were all in agreement, but Will furthered the motion that EAMONN's is the best fish & chips this side of the pond!
Sunday, October 07, 2007
new, but not great at NICOLA's (downtown DC)
The Embassy Suites Hotel located at 1250 22nd Street, NW has always had an Italian bistro or restaurant (previously Panevino) which has never gathered much attention. We recently heard that it has been replaced with TRATTORIA NICOLA'S (www.nicolasdc.com) which actually has its entrance on 23rd Street (between M & N Streets). The decor has been beefed up and is most cozy and comfortable with several different levels including a bar with three tv's. (the happy hour and appetizer 1/2 price specials are ONLY at the bar!).
We got a nice booth with Samuel (he is easier to control in a booth) and he started drinking his Shirley Temple and began to bounce off the walls because of the sugar! We ordered a special priced bottle of QUERCETO Chianto Classico 2004 which was nice and modestly robust, but definitely not worth the regular $75 tag (it was marked down to $40).
We got Sam his order of FETTUCINE with MARINARA Sauce and he was most happy when it came and got tons of fresh parmesan grated onto it by our attentive server Hatem. We asked Hatem to put some of the cheese in the olive oil on the table and he quickly returned with some fresh pepper to make a delish dipping oil.
Will ordered the ZUCCHINI FRITTI which came with two sauces, a plain and unexciting marinara and a tasty thick garlic aioli. These were actually delish on their own and even Sam enjoyed tasting it. I was disappointed to find out they were out of the carpaccio, so opted for the CALAMARI FRITTI with the two same sauces. I thought the fresh pepper would be nice on the fritti and started looking for Hatem, and as Sam saw him pass nearby, he yelled out, "EXUSE ME!" and Hatem was there within seconds. It seems that our little boy is becoming a real mensch in the dining out category; maybe he can win a new Rammy for best dining out toddler!
Both of these appetizers were yummy and HUGE, and Sam enjoyed tasting so much that he asked, :Who would like a taste of my pasta?" to which we answered no thank you, but he was insistent! So we did.
Will chose the entree pizza (which was 8 BIG slices for $19) called PIZZA POLLO al PESTO with chicken, pesto, pine nuts, purple onion and goat cheese. It had so much on it that Sam refused to try it, being the simple plain pizza guy that he is. It was so big, we will all be eating leftovers today for lunch; let's see if Samuel eats it then. My SCALLOPPINI di VITELLO al LIMONE was a tender cut of three veal medallions in a tasty piquant lemon sauce with a nice helping of very soft polenta on the side and a serving of broccoli that was so plain it screamed for something.
We decided to head home as the maraschino juice in the Shirley Temple was wearing off and we thought any dessert might aggravate the situation, so we all headed home where Sam gobbled up some jiggly blueberry jello with fresh raspberries.
While we had a very nice time at NICOLA's, I can't say it is excellent, simply good fare and the prices are a bit higher than some other fine spots such as Ristorante Pesto (Woodley Park) that are what i call true local Italian bistros. Of course, these days, Bebo in Crystal City and Alla Lucia in Alexandria offer finer quality food, but in town, this is a nice option.
We got a nice booth with Samuel (he is easier to control in a booth) and he started drinking his Shirley Temple and began to bounce off the walls because of the sugar! We ordered a special priced bottle of QUERCETO Chianto Classico 2004 which was nice and modestly robust, but definitely not worth the regular $75 tag (it was marked down to $40).
We got Sam his order of FETTUCINE with MARINARA Sauce and he was most happy when it came and got tons of fresh parmesan grated onto it by our attentive server Hatem. We asked Hatem to put some of the cheese in the olive oil on the table and he quickly returned with some fresh pepper to make a delish dipping oil.
Will ordered the ZUCCHINI FRITTI which came with two sauces, a plain and unexciting marinara and a tasty thick garlic aioli. These were actually delish on their own and even Sam enjoyed tasting it. I was disappointed to find out they were out of the carpaccio, so opted for the CALAMARI FRITTI with the two same sauces. I thought the fresh pepper would be nice on the fritti and started looking for Hatem, and as Sam saw him pass nearby, he yelled out, "EXUSE ME!" and Hatem was there within seconds. It seems that our little boy is becoming a real mensch in the dining out category; maybe he can win a new Rammy for best dining out toddler!
Both of these appetizers were yummy and HUGE, and Sam enjoyed tasting so much that he asked, :Who would like a taste of my pasta?" to which we answered no thank you, but he was insistent! So we did.
Will chose the entree pizza (which was 8 BIG slices for $19) called PIZZA POLLO al PESTO with chicken, pesto, pine nuts, purple onion and goat cheese. It had so much on it that Sam refused to try it, being the simple plain pizza guy that he is. It was so big, we will all be eating leftovers today for lunch; let's see if Samuel eats it then. My SCALLOPPINI di VITELLO al LIMONE was a tender cut of three veal medallions in a tasty piquant lemon sauce with a nice helping of very soft polenta on the side and a serving of broccoli that was so plain it screamed for something.
We decided to head home as the maraschino juice in the Shirley Temple was wearing off and we thought any dessert might aggravate the situation, so we all headed home where Sam gobbled up some jiggly blueberry jello with fresh raspberries.
While we had a very nice time at NICOLA's, I can't say it is excellent, simply good fare and the prices are a bit higher than some other fine spots such as Ristorante Pesto (Woodley Park) that are what i call true local Italian bistros. Of course, these days, Bebo in Crystal City and Alla Lucia in Alexandria offer finer quality food, but in town, this is a nice option.
Tuesday, October 02, 2007
Help support FOOD & FRIENDS and get pies to eat!!
As you know we are big supporters of FOOD & FRIENDS here in Washington and this year they are offering a wonderful charitable opportunity to ORDER PIES online and also help support their charity! You can buy the pies for yourself, your friends, your clients or even donate them to a FOOD & FRIENDS client in need of food. Below is the information on how to do it!
This season, you can help provide Thanksgiving meals to hundreds of people facing one of life's most difficult challenges by participating in Food & Friends' new Slice of Life event. By taking home a pie for yourself or sending one to a Food & Friends client, you will help to make the holiday season brighter for one of your neighbors living with HIV/AIDS, cancer or another life-challenging ilness. Choose from Apple, Pumpkin, or Signature Chocolate Torte, all baked by local favorite Bread & Chocolate. To order yours today, please visit www.foodandfriends.org/sliceoflife07.
Also, for those of you who like to join us, please save the date for the 2008 FOOD & FRIENDS CHEF's BEST event which will be MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008.
This season, you can help provide Thanksgiving meals to hundreds of people facing one of life's most difficult challenges by participating in Food & Friends' new Slice of Life event. By taking home a pie for yourself or sending one to a Food & Friends client, you will help to make the holiday season brighter for one of your neighbors living with HIV/AIDS, cancer or another life-challenging ilness. Choose from Apple, Pumpkin, or Signature Chocolate Torte, all baked by local favorite Bread & Chocolate. To order yours today, please visit www.foodandfriends.org/sliceoflife07.
Also, for those of you who like to join us, please save the date for the 2008 FOOD & FRIENDS CHEF's BEST event which will be MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008.
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