The Restaurant at UMI Hotel (southern Iceland)has glacial views and glorious food(7-25-22)

We spent our last two nights at UMI Hotel as it was halfway between the capital and the famous Jokulsarlon Lagoon & Glacier in the extreme southeast, allowing a one day journey to visit these sites along the southern coast as well as to hike to a glacier and zodiac around the lagoon! we were exhausted after leaving at 8am and returning at 7pm and chose to dine in the hotel which was a great choice.

The bar has gorgeous views onto the nearby mountain glaciers and the dining room faces the grassy and black sand beaches on the Atlantic Ocean; what could be more beautiful and relaxing?

The menu was simple, but the choices were all great and I knew the second I saw Minke Whale Tataki with Leek and Wasabi for a starter that I would have to return to that amazing dish so brilliantly prepared in Iceland. Whale tartare is slightly seared and seasoned beautifully to taste like a fishy sirloin and this came with pickled blueberries to boot. it was a dream dish that I know I won't see again for some time.

Will started with the Icelandic Scallops with Sunchoke Puree, Onion Pearls, Black Lumpfish Caviar all in a Champagne Sauce with a Nasturtium on top. it was a beautiful dish and super tasty as well. We were enjoying our well-deserved Dirty Icelandic Vodka Marinis, which were quite good pours I must add. Will chose the Reyka brand and I opted for the herbal Helviti(which we easily found in the duty free the next day, as well as others!!). Bread came with creamy butter topped with chive oil.

For the second night in a row, we chose the same main course, and it was a real winner for our farewell dinner: Confit of Arctic Char was a magnificent fish with Spinach Dumplings (four huge ones) with semi-dry tomatoes(I thought they meant sun-dried, but they were just broiled or grilled), romesco sauce, veloute, herbs and all topped with trout roe. The Icelandic love their fish, and this was the winning fish dish the whole trip for sure. We enjoyed a bottle of Petit Bourgeois white from Henri Bourgeous that was a great and not too expensive choice.

The dish was so rich and huge neither of us could fathom dessert, but we did head back to the bar at about 1030pm after we finished for a glacier view as we drank a glass of yummy Bjork Birch Liqueur! We could not have had a better time and better food than we did in Iceland and look forward to returning again as we fell in love again with the people and the country!

The Manor at Skalakot on the South Coast serves up super stuff (Iceland-7/24,22)

 

We moved about 2 hours southeast of the capital to discover the south coast for the next several days before heading home and stayed at a very wonderful hotel called UMI, but for our first night decided to dine 10 minutes away on a horse farm called Skalakot. The dining room was a tad noisy with one large group at the other end, but other than that, many tables were empty. By now it seemed that all the restaurant servers were from Poland, but we have to give them credit as they were wonderful waiters and totally understood we wanted to relax and dine. At first, we worried since the starters came right away and the wait for the mains was almost 45 minutes, but we were in no rush. 

Speaking of starters, Skalakot gets the prize for the best Lamb Tartare ANYWHERE which was served with a fun crunchy beetroot meringue that was savory, not sweet as well as smoked sour cream, avocado, onion sprouts, beets, carrots, cucumber and mushrooms. The dish was divine and peppery and just melted in your mouth. Will ordered the Mazaika, a local seafood starter made with salmon and cod, seaweed, caviar, shrimp, fresh veggies with pickled onion and crunchy chips. It was a delicate dish and not as filling, but quite worthy. 

Three delicious breads arrived: Leek, Poppy Seed & Smoked Paprika with the latter being the tastiest. Tzatziki was served with the bread as well as delicious local butter.

Will had a Beringer Chardonnay served by the glass, and I started on the bottle of red we ordered, a Francois Martenot Prestige Pinot Noir 2020 that was light to medium and went superbly with our main courses as we both ordered the Fisherman's Stew. This was a huge hearty dish with local Langoustines(large shrimp, aka small lobster), Salmon, Cod, Scallops and Mussels in a beautiful tomato sauce.

Will decided on the ice creams which he said were okay while I had the yummy Cacao tart with milk chocolate ganache & passion fruit sauce. Complimentary glasses of Homemade Rhubarb Liqueur arrived and we left very full and happy that we headed "around the corner" to Skalakot.

Grillmarket in Rekjavik really goes gaga on its tasting menu (7-23-22)

 Our last night in Reykjavik before we headed to the south coast was at the beautiful Grillmarket (or  Grillmarkaðurinn in Icelandic) where grilled meats and fish reign. The restaurant is in a beautiful old building hidden on a small courtyard off one of the main shopping streets and hence a tad difficult to find. We had come across it the day prior. but still had a tad of difficulty finding it again!

There are two levels as well as outdoor dining(not very big in Iceland, even in the summer) and we were taken past the open kitchen and upstairs room to the open bar and downstairs room which was a tad quieter. The music was a tad loud, but we adapted. The menus came and were on super heavy iron clipboards that made them quite difficult to lift, especially with such large menus for food and drink. Will and I quickly agreed the tasting menu was a great deal and confirmed with our charming server Paulina that while we had no clue what was coming, it would not be too meat intense and that the portions were indeed tastings with good pours for the wine. She assured us that she would take care of us and she was spot on; superb service all night.

The tasting here runs 12,900kroner(about $93) and the wines ring in at 9990kr, or abour $73. This is very reasonable for such an expensive country especially where almost any bottle of wine at a restaurant starts at well over $60! Do keep in mind that taxes are included here and no tipping is expected.

Pauline proceeded to pour a glass of Zenato Prosecco Brut and brought out the most magnificent Duck Salad with mozzarella, mandarin, pomegranate and spinach. We had seen the starter version of this at the next table and were very glad that ours was much smaller. The duck was shredded and juicy and all the ingredients were amazingly fresh and the dressing was divine. Always remember that photos are on my FB page.

Pauline arrived early with the next wine, a Santa Cristina 2020 Chardonnay, and it was served with an amazing Smoked Arctic Char with mustardseed, breadcrumbs and sweet mustard. If you like smoked fish, this would be your dream.

we were falling in love with every bite but went nuts for the Tiger Shrimp Tempura with Kimchi dressing that were as tender and juiucy as could be, paired with a Zenato 2018 Lugana Reserva which I had never had (to the best of my memory0>

Just when we thought we could not be impressed any more Paulina presented a dish I had never seen before in my life: a whale tartare with chili threads and onion soya sauce

and poured a Zenato 2018 Alanera made from Corvina grapes, again a wine we do not see too often at home. We had whale in blubber form about 14 years earlier in the Faroe Islands where it is considered a delicacy and we considered it like rubber. I was worried as I took a bite of the dark meat that smelled more like tuna, but tasted more like steak with a hint of fish. We loved it!!!

Grilled Salmon is a signature dish for the fish menu here and it was indeed one of the best salmons ever grilled to perfection, slightly rare and served with bok choy, quinoa mashed potatoes and with a garlic teriyaki sauce. The wine was a repeat of the Lugana, which we could not resist!

When the meat course came we were now in love with the magnificent RIbeye Steak with Creamy Mushrooms, Fried Mushrooms, Shishito Tempura and Mushroom Glaze. The red wine was another Zenato, a 2018 Ripasso Superiore that was drinking as smooth as could be.

Just when we thought dessert was next a rack of lamb appeared with date jam, yogurt sauce and glazed carrots and more Ripasso was poured. This rack was much better than the previous nights, less fat, and not so chewy, but we decided we had enough lamb for the trip.

Dessert wine came in the form of a Zenato 2017 Recioto della Valpolicella which we love and it was served with the most dramatic of desserts presentations(see the video on FB) for the Chocolate Ice Cream, Ginger Blueberry Ice Cream, Chocolate Lava Cake and Donuts(called Love Balls) all side dishes to the Crispy Malaysian Coffee Ice Cream Bombe topped with Hot Caramel sauce poured by Raphael.

We were very glad to take tastes of everything and then waddle home as we had an early departure to head to the glaciers in the south for snowmobiling the next day.

Reykjavik, Iceland's DILL(Michelin-starred) does dinner deliciously (7-22-22)

 Our second night here in the nation' capital was a meal we had planned and re-planned for the last several years!! Ever since DILL won a Michelin star (the first in Iceland), it was on our radar. The concept is to use all local ingredients and also try to remain as sustainable as possible with no waste. The meal was a spectacular journey through Icelandic cuisine and we were nuts about virtually every bite.

The only option here is a tasting menu at 15,900IKS(approx $116US) and there are wine parings for an additional 13,900IKS($102 each). Will decided to add the glass of Olivier Horiot French Champagne "Metisse" for an extra $24 which was nice, but quite an overdose of bubbly for me. Nice Riedel stemware is used, but my only real qualm with the arrangement was that the silverware is placed on the table in a large canister and you take whatever you want. I guess this saves time for the staff setting it out, but there is a lack of glass and one knife was actually dirty!

Four amuses arrive first in the form of (1) a Raw Char Tartlet with Dehydrated Sheep-dung Smoked Trout(!!), (2)Vegetable soup made over 4 days from leftover veggies in the kitchen and smoked and caramelized over 2 days, topped with horseradish cream and wasabi powder, (3) a Pancake with Lamb Tartare(made from filet & hearts that are brined, then smoked0 with Angelica emulsion and pickled roses, dehydrated dung-smoked lamb and fresh watercress, (4)Caramelized Onion cake with pickled carrots and Juniper emulsion, which would have been quite dry save for the emulsion. The flavors were intense and the ingredients obviously insane, but it was a burst of flavors in each dish.

The only item not pictured on my FB photos is the Grilled Blue Mussel from Stykkisholmer (where we had visited 2 days prior on our cruise) with a black garlic puree, blue mussel emulsion, lovage and sea sandwort. This was paired with a To Ol x Saltverk beer called "There goes the seawater pipe" which Will oved, but I opted for the 2020 Rose of Pinot Noir from Pfalzland in Germany. Jasmine, the sommelier and winemaker from Germany did keep our glasses refilled and she was a font of knowledge and a treat as was the entire staff. It seemed that every course was delivered by a different chef from the kitchen which was fun as well.

The bread was from the island of Oland and served with Spruce Butter!

The next pair of dishes were paired with a Riesling from Peter Jakob Kun 2020 Alte Reben in Rheingau which was nice and dry and worked great with the greens.

1)Green Fermented Tomatoes, 4-week Fermented Cabbage, fresh cabbage, Romaine and Tindur cheese were dressed in the most amazing Almond and buttermilk puree that had an awesome flavor and a crunch from some almonds(I intend to try and replicate this). The second dish was Barley Risotto in brown butter with fermented daikon(in cream and butter), Golden Beetroot(in nutmeg & lemon) and salt baked roots with sprouts on top.

Remember that all the photos are on FB!!

Fish was next and the first dish was Cured cod in chive oil (think ceviche, and how odd that they have great fish here in Iceland, but tartare is not so common!) with tomatoes two ways: Slow roasted overnight and marinated in Marigold pickling liquid all covered by a tomato consomme. This was a brilliant tartare that had us wanting more. It was paired with a Siur Alta Orange wine 2021 from Catalonia, Spain(Pinedes) made by Vins Nus. Jasmine said she loved it and wanted us to try it. I was okay with it for the fish, but alone it was a tad funky.

The second fish was a Cod Loin and Jelly with Mushroom Puree, fermented tomato water, pickled green currants, chervil and chervil foam. Again, cod is the star fish here in Iceland and this dish was truly an example of how heightened it can be.

Of course the pother star product of Iceland is lamb, and the next two dishes were examples of that paired with a Valli Unite rosato frizzante(sparkling rose) called "Il Rose & The Beast." we tried it and again, it was on the verge of funky, but was okay with the first Braised Lamb Shank with Salt-baked Rutabagas, burnt bay leaf powder and fresh lemon-thyme leaves. Like the previous night, this shank was a confit style and melted in your mouth. The second lamb dish was a grilled Loin aged 14 days with Compressed lamb lettuce, lamb consomme, black garlic and lovage with Icelandic seaweed. The flavor profiles of this dish were amazing, but again the loin was a tad chewy and in some places the sinew was hard to cut. It was in a bowl and we were both afraid the sauce or meat would fly across the table. I asked the staff if Icelanders like their lamb this way and they said it is very common. They prefer it rare and sinewy and the fatty tradition goes way back. I will stick to the confit versions!! This dish, to me, also demanded red wine and Jasmine immediately complied with a yummy Grenache-Syrah blend called "Fruit Jazz" from Sylvain Bock(an Alsatian winemaker) in Ardeche, France that we loved and asked for refills on--several times.

A  wonderfully refreshing palate cleanser of Rhubarb Sorbet came with wasabi oil and dehydrated wasabi leaf. I should also mention that each dish was a work of art in the presentation department--you need to check out the FB photos.

Desserts started with an homage to Icelandic nature with an Almond/Brown Butter  Rhubarb Cake with preserved rhubarb, chervil stems and pods, pickled roses and burnt cream. I was nuts about this dish and the smoky cream. The second plate was a simpler looking yet super tasty Chocolate & Coffee Roll Cake with Arctic Thyme and Lemon Cream.

Jasmine returned with several after dinner drink options(not included) and we tasted them all before ordering. Will opted for the smooth and herbal Helviti Iceland Vodka while I chose the Bjork Liqueur made from birch that was amazing. We will have to buy these both at duty-free on departure!

There were small treats afterwards in the form of a Chocolate Ganache tart with Pickled Rhubarb and roasted almonds as well as a crunchy taffy of Lemon-Thyme-Vinegar-Caramel-Herbal tea that was yummy, but I am sure did major damage to my teeth.

We were so glad we finally got to Dill and would return in a second as it was an amazing journey through the highest echelons of Icelandic cuisine.

KOPAR in Reykjavik, Iceland--cool cuisine (7-21-22)

 Off our Arctic Expedition cruise, we were eager for some Icelandic local food and chose Kopar located on the waterfront in downtown Reykjavik. It is a two story building with simple yet attractive decor and our server, who said to call him "John" as his name was so long, was very helpful and totally accommodated our needs to relax between courses and really enjoy our first night back on land.

We started with one of their specialty drinks called Euphoria and asked "John" to cut the Elderflower a tad so it was not too sweet. The drink was also made with Icelandic vodka, Blue Curacao and lime and was nice an tart and refreshing. 

Beautiful bread arrived, which was just a plain yet crusty edged white, but we had noticed the breads on the ship were never that great, so being here in Iceland where the bread is all freshly baked is a real treat, especially the black breads! The butter was purplish with dried violets and licorice salt, which when spread on the bread did not give a very strong licorice flavor, so I gobbled it down; Will asked for the plain purple dried violet butter.

Starters were Rock Crab Soup with Shrimp, Spinach & Bean Sprouts which Will said was delicious, but could have used some more chunks of seafood in it. My Langoustine Wantons used local lobster(they call it langoustine as they tend to be smaller than what we are used to) in a crispy fried wonton with cauliflower, pickled onion and a tangy chili mayo for dipping. While the starters were not that large, the mains were quite large.

We ordered a bottle of Muga Reserva 2018 Tempranillo blend from Rioja, Spain and while we realize Iceland is expensive, the alcohol import tax really makes a bottle of wine that runs $50-60 at a DC restaurant, over $80 here!! It was a great choice as we both ordered the local Grilled Rack of Lamb with Slow-cooked lamb shoulder served with Fondant Potato, Apricot-Thyme Demi-Glaze, charred Asparagus and Crispy fried lotus.

I guess the terms for part of the lamb are different here as the "rack" was not a chop, but a slice which was a tad fatty, though beautifully crispy on the top. The shoulder underneath was more like a confit as was superb and tasty. Fondant potato here was a 1/2 large potato just peeled and braised, not exciting but the sauces were so tasty as there was the glaze as well as a nice lamb jus. The asparagus and lotus were a nice touch. We had seen the dessert menu, but we were so stuffed we decided to split one and "John" suggested the Chocolate Trio which was a very nice trio of a gooey Dark Chocolate Fondant Tart, White Chocolate Ice Cream and a Milk Chocolate Mousse. We loved it all and headed back to our hotel after an exhausting day as we had toured 10-hours with a guide all day after disembarking at 730am and needed a good rest.

Tonight--Iceland's Michelin starred DILL!

The Galloping Major at Oddfellows on the Park (near Manchester Airport) starts sublimely and oddly overcooks (7-9-22)

 Our last night in the UK was at the very nice country house of ODDFELLOWS on the PARK in Cheadle, just 10 minutes from Manchester Airport as we had an am flight and wanted to be nearby. The hotel is charming and the rooms modern, comfortable and very neat and clean. 

We headed down to dinner in the Galloping Gourmet not expecting much, and started off with a superb white Terra de Asorei Albarino from Rias Baixas, Spain. The wines here are served in 125ml, 175ml and 250ml carafes which I love and we went for the large size so we could enjoy it before and with our starters. We both chose the King Tiger Prawns that was a superb dish with a huge piece of grilled sourdough bread topped with Smoky Aioli and 5 perfectly poached shrimp and bits of Chorizo that had a nice kick. We were thoroughly impressed, We had made friends with the bartender, Hendrick, earlier in the evening and he came over to help us choose a bottle of red wine and we ended up with a reasonably priced Glenelly 2015 Shiraz from Stellenbosch in South Africa that was nice and smoky and had great depth to pair with our mains as we both ordered the 8 ounce Blackened Spice Beef Burger which came with Blacksticks Blue Cheese(barely enough to even taste), Smoked Bacon, Gem Lettuce, Beef Tomato, a super sauce and Skin-on Fries.

A way overly-mayonnaised Cole Slaw was on the side. The burger was gorgeous, the fries crispy and divine and all could have been forgiven on the mayonnaise had both burgers not been cooked to medium. we specifically asked for medium rare, but it never got through to the kitchen!  We did not want them to recook the burgers, so we sulked, finished them and split a yummy Sea Salt Sticky Toffee Pudding with Vanilla Pod Ice Cream that was a slight recovery from the overcooked burgers. The setting is very nice and we enjoyed the hotel, but it's probably not a place I would go back to, unless I had another early flight out of Manchester.

--

CraftHouse in Leeds: cool setting, cool cuisine, and noise from the bar above!(7-8-22)

 Will & I had a change of plans at the last minute as his sister was a tad tuckered out, so we decided to dine at CraftHouse, a Michelin-starred spot just across the street from the hotel in the middle of downtown. We had no clue where the place was, but after a second figured out there was an elevator (lift) marked CraftHouse that took us 4 stories up to a beautiful rooftop dining destination. The front had an empty bar and a number of folks were sitting just outside the dining room on a large deck area overlooking the city.

We were the only ones in the dining room at first (for a 645pm reservation), but our attentive and handsome(is there something in the water?) server, Nathaniel, showed us the tasting menus and wine list. 

At this point the music was doing a rappy tad loud and we asked Nathaniel if it could be toned down which was no problem.

The menu is 55 pounds(US$65) which is great for a nice 6 course menu for sure, and the paired wines went for 45(US$54), but Nathaniel warned us the pours were measured and there were no refills....we went with two bottles of wine which ultimately gave us several glasses more than the tasting and totaled at less than $80!! A Pedegroso "Tabali" Viognier 2020 from Chile's Limari Valley was a great choice especially with the first two dishes:

-Whipped Smoked Cod's Roe with Yuzu Gel and Shiso(leaf) in a phyllo pastry shaped like a cigar. It was crunchy and fishy and the yuzu had a tad of sweet-tart.

We also liked the BELU (served in "ethical glass" bottles) fizzy water from the UK that was subtle but refreshing.

-Wye Valley (Wales) Asparagus came with Smoked Egg Yolk and Parmesan French toast. A buttermilk dressing was light and crispy capers gave the delicious dish a salty kick.

At this point, we noticed there was conflicting music and it sounded like one source was the thump, thump from the bar fighting the music in the dining room. We asked what was going on as only 4 inside tables were occupied(in total, there were no more than 10 diners!! on a Friday night) and Nathaniel said it was coming from a bar on the roof upstairs (that was apparently jammed). He moved us to the other side of the dining room and my head finally calmed down.

Our second wine was the one actually paired in the tasting with the meat course:

-2016 Blaufrankisch(called Kekfrankos in Hungarian) from Blues Monopole in Kovacs Nimrod in Hungary that had a nose of sweet charcoal vs. burnt blackberry, but a taste that was smooth, medium bodied, and fine with our fish and meat courses that followed:

-Pan Fried Skrei (Norwegian) Cod Loin was beautifully browned and had an amazing crunchy crust and looked like a giant seared scallop(check out all the fotos as always on FB). It came with Roasted Cauliflower gnocchi that were divine as well as a Caramelized Cauliflower Puree, Swiss Chard, Ver jus Grapes and Almond Foam.  This was a winner of a fish dish!

-Hereford Fillet of Beef was tinged with sea salt and came just shy of medium rare, exactly as requested. The Crispy Potato Terrine (Pommes Anna) were super and there was a Confit Roscoff (never heard of that) Onion, Watercress Puree and an accompanying piece of Pastrami Short Rib that was wildly tangy, sour and unique from its brine.

Pickled Mustardseed and a Caramelized Onion Glaze finish off the dish to perfection.

The first dessert was a pre-dessert of Peach Melba Tart, and adorable miniature with Peach Custard, Frozen Raspberry and a Blood Peach Crust. Super refreshing and a big wow, but was followed by the awesome Salted Caramel Tart with Cornflake Ice Cream and Drunken Raisins with a spiced rum. 

This was an amazing meal for an amazing price created by Chef Simon Jewitt, and we will return for sure, but need to sit near the quiet side of the room!!

The IVY in Leeds is always luscious (7-7-22)

 Last year we started a tradition of taking  the family to the IVY in Leeds and we love it. The place is beautiful and the service and food are excellent. We even had the same server as last year, Rogene., who remembered us the second we arrived!

Drinks here are fund and I ordered the Bloodflowers Margarita which has a blood flower in it and is made with Olmeca Altos Plata Tequila, St. Germain Elderflower, blood orange and lime. I was surprised when it came with a sugared rim, but Rogene fixed that real fast. The Mango Coladas were a hit as were an Aperol Spritz and Chocolate Espresso Martini.

Our white wine was a Vermentino 2020 Funtana Liras from Sardinia and we had the same red as last year(different vintage) 2020 Douro Tinto from Quinttado Vallado in Portugal as we loved it so much.

The Ivy makes an awesome Steak Tartare, a beautiful Prawn Cocktail and a wonderful Crispy Duck Salad with 5 spice dressing, toasted cashews, watermelon, bean sprouts and more. Starters always win here.

The Korean Glazed Chicken came with pickled mooli, sesame avocade and jalapeno sauce as well as citrus mayo. The Shepherd's Pie is a beautiful creation of lamb & beef with red wine sauce and cheddar mash on top, while the Chicken Milanese is a brioche-crumbed breast with a fried egg on top and a truffle cream sauce that was divine, even if the chicken was a tad dry. The steak was a 21-day Himalayan salt-aged sirloin and it was fatty and gristly and got sent back -- we were not charged. Again, great service!

Creme Brulee here is excellent with Almond & Blueberry Panna Cotta in a Limoncello Sauce also making a nice impression. The Pedro Ximinez Bodega Alvear "Solera 1927" is a nice dessert wine if you want one--and we do.

We were super happy, save for the steak, and that was rectifying with no issue.

The Ivy will se us back again next year for sure, and there was a real cute waiter who was flirting with us as well, we returned the flirt--always appreciate that.

getting judgemental about JUDGES at Kirklevington (near Yarm, North Yorkshire)-7-6-22

 We have been having wonderful meals here for years at Judges where we stay near Middlesborough visiting family and friends, but last night was simply lackluster. The service was excellent as always and so were the wines. We started with a Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2020 white from Pontemagno and then moved to a Rupe Secca Nero d'Avola red from Sicily. 

We all started with the Pan seared Scallops with Parma Ham Croute, white wine sauce and micro herbs which was nice and simple. I wanted to keep things light and chose a second starter of Smoked Duck with beetroot puree, herb croute, orange and endive. The duck was quite dry and needed more beetroot puree to save that and the endive was switched out for frisee, which I am none to fond of. Will did worse with the Braised Featherblade, a braised cut of meat (not sure what, but it tasted "used") that was so overcooked it, too, was quite dry and needed more of the beef jus. Dauphinoise potatoes, seasonal vegetables and wild mushroom fricasee were there but in miniature. The Crispy Pork Belly was the only one that passed muster with creamed potatoes, broccoli, celeriac, apple puree and cider jus.

The dessert of Coconut and Lime Panna Cotta with coconut dacquoise was very refreshing, but the plating was nowhere near what we have seen over the many years of dining here. The small plate of mignardises that came with the coffee(at a cost, but they used to be complimentary) were also lackluster.

The cheese tray was delicious with Yorkshire Blue, Maldon Ruddy cheddar and Durham Camembert, but the portions were quite miniscule. 

Praying this was a glitch and that when we return things will improve.

--

The Bay Horse in Hurworth, Durham is brilliant (7-5-22)

 We found our new favorite restaurant last night about 30 minutes from our hotel in Hurworth (Darlington, Durham County) where we joined Will's cousins for an amazing evening what is called pub, but this one is a total fine dining experience.

We arrived and sat in the entry bar which is adorable and I perused the wonderful and large wine list and immediately hit upon a Musita Regie Terre Zibibbo 2020 from Sicily that had citrus, spiciness and was bone dry. Our server Antonio brought the wine and we headed to a small room upstairs which was cozy and delightful. Another party came in, but left complaining of the echo, we loved the room.

Warm breads arrived in the form of a slightly dry tomato-basil brioche and a tasty Hazelnut-Raisin brown muffin. The starters were really magnificently plated (as was everything)  and all were beyond excellent:

-Seared Mackerel, King Prawn mousse wrapped in potato, Grannie Smith's apple gel, English mustard cream and candied beetroot got raves while the

-Summer Butternut Squash Risotto had roasted Merguez sausage, basil pesto and caramelized baby onions

-three of us chose the Whitby white Crab which came with a brown crab parfait(an interesting pate like block that was intensely fishy and tasty), English asparagus, cured egg yolk, plum ketchup, parsley mayonnaise, North Atlantic Octopus and seaweed crisp. Each bite had a different flavor, texture and feeling making this dish a real winner.

We moved onto a 2018 Celeste Crianza from Familia Torres in Ribera del Duero that was nice with all our varied mains as well.

The Slow Cooked Sticky Beef is a cheek cooked for 12 hours and served with Salt beef Croquette, Smoked Bacon Macaroni, Roasted Leek hearts, Leek Puree, Baby Leeks, White Onion ketchup and caramelised white onions and was  hit (well, everything was!).

Pressed Salted Belly Pork had only a tad of fat and came with Mango ketchup, Tenderstem Broccoli, Broccoli Puree, Toasted Almonds, Pomme Dauphine and braised Toulouse sausage. The only complaint was that the skin could have been crispier.

New season loin of Lamb came with Salted Lamb Belly, Fricasee of Broad Beans, Pan fried Polenta, roast Heritage Cherry Tomatoes, Broad Bean relish, Feta, Balsamic Aioli and Madeira Jus.

You may have noticed these dishes are quite elaborate and while magnificently plated and truly tasty, it was hard to decide where to start and finish!

The Coriander & garlic marinated Chicken breast, , roasted chorizo, sweet potato puree, chilli yoghurt, cous cous, charred pak choi, curried apple dressing and curried granola was another surprisingly exciting dish making a gem out of chicken.

My Ballotine of Rabbit Loin, confit Rabbit boudin, truffle aioli, English Garden Peas, pea foam, Doreen's Black Pudding, mushroom ketchup and sauteed Trumpet Mushrooms was one of the best rabbit preparations EVER!!

We were full but Will had to have his traditional Sticky Toffee Pudding which was gloriously prepared here with Grannie Smith Apple Sorbet, Set Yoghurt, Compressed Apple, Apple Puree and Oat Crumble. Even more divine was the Caramelised Rice Pudding which came with a crunchy creme-brulee like topping, Raspberry Ripple & Toasted Almond Ice Cream, Chambord-soaked Frangipane and Raspberry Jelly.

Kudos to our server Antonio, a truly handsome guy to boot, who ran up and down the stairs all night and kept us all super happy. We later found out that the Bay Horse is owned by the same folks who own The Muse in Yarm where we loved our meal the night before. Obviously, they are doing something (well, many things) right!

The Muse in Yarm(North Yorkshire)makes us very happy, again (7-4-22)

 Each time we return to Will's neighborhood, we always look for new and exciting dining spots and several years back we discovered The Muse just minutes from our hotel and it always is a winner. This year we had the same server as last year and Emily remembered us, knew we liked to take a break between courses, and seemed to anticipate our every need. 

One of the signature starters here is the yummy Seafood Pancake with salmon, cod and prawn in a rich thermidor sauce. Two of us had that, one went for the Smoked Salmon Classic with Lemon-dill creme fraiche, bread crisps and a rocket-cornichon salad, while I chose the superb Pea & Tarragon Soup with small bits of potato, broad beans, pea fricasee, peas, pea tendrils and chive oil. Our Xavier Roger 2021 Marsanne-Viognier was the same wine we adored last year.

Our second wine was a Borgo deli Trulli 2020 Primitivo from Puglia that was also a fine find and paired with our very varied main courses. They arrived a tad too fast and Emily apologized profusely saying the kitchen did not heed her request. 

The mains were indeed as varied as possible with a Mediterranean Vegetable Risotto that can be a starter or main, Pan Fried Stone Bass with Olive Tapenade, Tomato Pesto(left off per the guests' request), Roasted Fennel & Olive Salad and sauteed New Potatoes. The Jerk Marinated Cod had a nice spice to it and came with Creamed roasted Sweet Corn, Confit Potatoes, Charred Spring Onion & tender stem Broccoli. My Garlic & Rosemary Char-grilled Chicken came with a tasty Bearnaise Sauce, Pomme Frites(Bearnaise good for them too) and a large tasty Rocket, Shallot & Parmesan Salad. It was nice, but a tad on the simple side and could have used a bit more spice.

Desserts here are yummy, but we decided to split two cheese plates and some chocolate truffles. The cheeses were a wonderful Yorkshire Blue(as it always is), a none too ripe Brie de Meaux(that was not runny at all) and a fabulous Wookey Hall Cheddar. There were some nice dessert wines to choose like a very sweet Red Muscadel from South Africa and a Muscat de Frontignan Chateau Peyrade from France.

We left promising Emily to return next year!