Thursday, June 29, 2006

Super service at the sumptuous CITY CLUB

We joined the CITY CLUB a couple of months ago, but have not had the chance to dine in their elegant dining room. Last night we took advantage of the location (next to the Warner Theater and around the corner from the National Theater) to enjoy the preparations of Chef Vincent Horville for a pre-theater supper. I am truly impressed by the top level of service that all the staff has with added grace and elegance that makes this not only a classy spot (even without a jacket and tie), but also a friendly place.

Will started with a good sized Margarita and I enjoyed a refreshing glass of STERLING VINTNERs COLLECTION CHARDONNAY from Napa. We perused the menu and were not surprised to see many standards, but also a strong Asian influence such as in the CRISP ORIENTAL CRAB ROLLS with thin flaky rolls stuffed with crabs and veggies in a sweet and sour sauce that was superb. Similarly Asian was my STIR-FRY TENDER CUTTLE FISH with Kafir Leaf, Chili-Garlic and Sweet Ponsu Sesame Sauce. The squid was very tendy and tasty (save for one slice) and the sauce again superb.

I did forget to mention the tasty warm rolls and the amuse of BLACK PEPPER CRUSTED TURKEY on Cucumber with a Ginger Slice and Asian Sauce that was yummy as well.

We enjoyed an bottle of ARGYLE NUT HOUSE PINOT NOIR 2002 from Oregon that had a huge nose, but seemed to be lacking in thos yummy Pinot fruits so often found in Oregon. Indeed, the 15% alcohol content may have caused this and moved the fruit forwardness of the wine way back behind the alcohol. It actually was perfect with both our entrees: My PAN ROASTED SESAME QUAIL with Napa Cabbage & Bok Choy also had that Asian feel to it and feature two plumb birds completely filling me up, not to mention the plate of tasty cabbages and extra vegetables. Will went more American with a huge DOUBLE CUT ROASTED VEAL CHOP with
melted SWISS CHEESE, Oven Roasted Tomato, Peppercorn Demiglace. If the meat were not huge enough, the melted cheese made it even richer and huger, but a totally satisfying and enjoyable treat.

While we were full, we had to at least try the desserts and discovered this is not the forte of the City Club. The traditional CREME BRULEE has a crust that is a bit too gooey, but the SWEET POTATO CAKE (their signature dessert) is a tasty cross between carrot and spice cake (made with sweet potato) and a not too invasive cream cheese frosting. The best part are the WHITE CHOCOLATE MACADAMIA NUT COOKIES that come afterwards and are always placed throughout the club daily making it a nice treat with a cup of coffee at anytime!

I'm truly glad we became members of this wonderful hideaway!

Sunday, June 25, 2006

the 2006 rockin' RAMMYs..the Restaurant Awards winners are...

We arrived home seconds ago from this year's wonderful RAMMY's celebration and the food and wine were truly wondrous, and despite the heat and storms...we really were not very happy with the final winners. Hopefully someone will give the judges a boot and have some folks that LOVE food making the decisions in the future (and I say this a present member of the Gala Committee...although with this posting, they MAY kick me off!).

Neighborhood Gathering Place of the Year:EVENING STAR CAFE
Informal Dining Restaurant:KAZ SUSHI BISTRO..it's about time Chef Kaz got some recognition!
Hottest Bar Scene: Clyde's of Gallery Place
Rising Culinary Star: JOHNNY MONIS (Komi)
New Restaurant of the Year: BLACKSALT (a truly wonderful find)
Pastry Chef: Zoe BEHRENS, 1789
Wine & Beverage Program: CHARLIE PALMER STEAK
Power Spot: The Capital Grille
Employee of the Year: SANTOS FUENTES, Chef Goeff;s
Manager of the Year: DANNY BOYLEN, Gen' Mgr, Notte Bianche Where Magazine Visitors Choice: Clyde's
Favorite Restaurant: Sweetwater Tavern
Fine Dining: Maestro
Chef of the Year:Jose Andres (who was not there for the 2nd year in row)

A fun night, but can we PLEASE get new judges!

Saturday, June 24, 2006

Puttin' on the RITZ, well at least The GRILLE at the Ritz

Saturday last we were invited to small birthday celebration at The GRILLE of the RITZ-CARLTON in downtown DC (1150 22nd St, NW) which was our second time there. It is a grand and pleasing setting with huge comfy chairs, fine linens and crystal and the most kind and elegant service as well. I think the only negative at The Grille might be the standardized menu which for me, seems to cater to the tourist/business hotel guests.

Luckily, even though he was not there, Chef Richard Arnoldi, gave us a superbly prepared and not run of the mill CHILLED YELLOW TOMATO SOUP with Lumb Crabmeat that was just right for this dreadful summer heat. The excellent POUILLY FUISSE that accompanied it was crisp and refreshing and truly got us chilled down as well (not to mention those martinis and cool drinks in the bar beforehand!).

While the breadbasket is full of tasty morcels, the only flaw there is the bland breadsticks, but all made up for in the excellent tapenades and spreads offered with the other breads.

Our menu was pre-chosen, so we had a choice, and I was in a steak mood, making it the FILET au POIVRE which was perfectly cooked as requested, served in a tasty sauce and accompanied by an array of fabulous sides including STILTON MASHED POTATOES that were mild enough for my taste, with just the slightest blue cheese bite.

We brought a double magnum of VINCENT ARROYO 1995 PETITE SYRAH was was as smooth as silk and just ready for drinking (the last time we opened the same size bottle of the same vintage some 4 years ago it was like chewing on the earth!), a real treat for all, especially with the meat! So, while, innovation isn't what the GRILLE is all about, it is surely a ritzy place worth the visit for those seeking the shelter of a beautiful room with super service and fine dining.

Saturday, June 17, 2006

the Lovely LABORATORIA del GALILEO

You must excuse the delay of this write-up, but we have been so busy with Samuel's 3rd birthday party, visiting friends and family and the ultimate 50th Birthday Benefit this past weekend, that I could not get a second to jot down our thoughts of my 50th Birthday PLUS one month dinner at the LABORATORIO del GALILEO with one of our favorite chefs in town, IRON CHEF AMERICA winner ROBERTO DONNA presiding!

The meal started with several bottles of VEUVE CLIQUOT Yellow Label N/V which is a great way to cool off on a bloody hot summer night (which we seem to be having way to many of lately!). A SALD of BABY ARTICHOKES & LOBSTER with FRIED BABY ANCHOVIES and Orange Dressing was an excellent starter with luscious chunks of tender lobster and superbly fried and crunchy anchovies on top. We opened a magnum of 1997 IRON HORSE CHARDONNAY Cuvee Joy from Sonoma that we brought with us and its Fench style and mineral hints made it the perfect foil for the lobster. It lasted a while, but we switched to a 1990 CHATEAU GUIRAUD SAUTERNES with the ROASTED DUCK LIVER in PEACH SAUCE. The foie gras was SUPERB, simple and totally faaaabulous, and the amber wine was drinking so perfectly it was a match made in heaven.

We had several duds with wines from my cellar: a totally off 1990 Charbonneau from Woodward Canyon in Washington died a long time ago (although, oddly the sommelier, Matteo thought it fine). Second disaster was a 1985 Morey St. Denis which was also completely gone (what a shame!).

So we ordered some of the yummy MonFerrato Rosso 2000 which is a combination of Barbera, Pinot Noir and Merlot that would work with almost any medium-style dish! We drank it with the tasty and slightly spicy PAPPA POMODORO with Shrimp, a yummy soup made of tomato and bread that is a winner anytime in my book.

REGINETTE of Home Grown Swiss CHARD & RICOTTA, Barrage, a MOREL MUSHROOM RAGU with Parmesan Cheese Sauce was our first of three heavenly pasta courses. There is no question that this is always the highlight of a Chef Donna dinner; he must be the best pasta person in the world! If we thought pasta #1 was great, it got even better with PAPPARDELLE with SAUSAGE & RAPINI Sauce next, and we served our smooth STAGLIN SANGIOVESE 1995 from Napa that was in (finally) perfect shape. RISOTTO with RED BEETS in PEA SAUCE which was a completely new idea for me; the risotto sitting in an thick almost souplike sauce with red beets peeking through the gorgeous green pea sauce.

We switched back to white with my own MINER WILD YEAST Chardonnay (forgot the year--1999, I think) which is one of Napa's biggest yeastiest chards I have ever had. A perfect match for PAN SEARED SOFTSHELL CRABS with Black Olives, Cherry Tomatoes, Basil and Garlic Confit. This was a stronger sauce than usual for crabs, but the beautiful battered darlings stood up to it, as did the wine.

We opened a 1992 CHATEAU le GAY Pomerol, that never quite came to the light, although it was not bad, so we polished off the superb Sangiovese with the GRLLED MARINATED RIBEYE of LAMB with Grilled Fennel, Grilled Onions, Asparagus and Bagnetto Rosso.

The Le Gay worked a bit better as it tried to open up for the CHEESE COURSE of BRUSS (made with Grappa), Manchego, Stilton, Carmen (a Wisconsin Cheese), and one creamy goat--sorry, I lost count at this point.

A LEMON GRANITA cleared our palates fro the delicious dessert consisting of three parts - CHOCOLATE FLOURLESS CAKE with TRUFFLE (so what was on the third side of the plate?), and we polished off the rest of that magnificent GUIRAUD Sauternes as we munched the Bomboloni and headed home.

It was a wonderful evening, that did move a bit too fast at first, be we managed to slow down and we all had a truly memorable experience with Washington's Iron Chef America!

Sunday, June 11, 2006

Sam's spring rolls at SALA THAI

For the second year in a row before the Gay Pride Parade here in DC, we opted to take Samuel to SALA THAI at 2016 P Street which was an excellent choice. While he did not care for his "pasta" dish of PAD THAI made with shrimp that was simply loaded with noodles, peanuts, whole shrimp and more, he did wolf down an entire order and more of SPRING ROLLS, crisy and full of veggies--alas minus the dipping sauce, which we loved, but he called yukky.

The CHICKEN SATAY was moist and tasty with one of the best PEANUT SAUCES around. I also like the way the small lettuce and carrot salad on the side comes with fish sauce which I use as "vinaigrette."

We had a bottle of PENEDES 1+1=3 ROSE 2004 which is always a great summer wine and wonderful with spicy foods. We needed it with our entree of SALA THAI DUCK served with rice, spring vegetables and a super spicy thick sauce with coconut. The duck was crispy on the skin and very tender, but did have a bit too much fat for my liking. Other than that, it's a sure winner for "spicy" lovers.

Sam enjoyed is "lemonade" served as a frozen frostee-like drink, and we all hobbled out to the parade having eaten way too much.

This week is a quiet dining week, so forgive the break, as we recover from the Carolina vacation.

Tuesday, June 06, 2006

doing good at DAVID GREGGORY --WHY I began Phyllis

As I write this review, I note that Tuesday was in deed the 6-6-6 date..OOPS. We had a fine day, and a superb dinner; so much for superstition!

Chef GREGGORY HILL has been keeping busy this spring, as we entered DAVID GREGGORY on Tuesday around 815pm and the place was jammed at the bar as well as with diners on the outside patio on 21st Street. The 2030 M location (www.davidgreggory.com) offers many options from the quieter rear rooms to the bar and busier front sections, as well as the outside, so indeed, there are really several different feelings.

We ordered a bottle of delicious CROZES HERMITAGE BLANC (Marsanne/Rousanne) 2004 from ALAIN GRAILLOT that was just perfect with our starters:

FRIED CALAMARI with Harissa Aioli, Lemon-Lime Aioli and Chipotle Cocktail sauce, which made me think that David Greggory is really all about options; one dish, several sauces give you a variety of tastes. We preferred the slightly spicy Harissa, but all the sauces were indeed great. It also reminded me of how this list really got started. Many years ago, just before Phyllis Richman's retirement, I read a review in the Washington Post that she wrote of GABRIEL (which was where Chef Greggory Hill was for so many memorable years) where she berated his overuse and multiple use of sauces in one dish. Silly Phyllis, sauces are fun, and make life exciting. You can always choose just one and be boring, but I like different tastes with each dish as well! So I began the PHYLLIS-teens and now you are all still here with me! Oh, I digress....

Will opted for the SMOKED CHICKEN EMPANADAS with Salsa Mexicana, Guacamole & Crema (again, fun with dips on these tasty morcels), while I had the new item on the menu that was a magnificent treat and wonderful idea:

LOBSTER CORN DOG is a true corn dog on a stick. Huge and full of moist chunks of lobster it's served with Chesapeake Fries and a Tarragon Aioli. You can use the aioli for the fries, but it is really best like a tartar sauce on the corn dog! This item is over $15, but worth every bite and extremely filling.

For that reason, I ordered only a 1/2 entree. Another thing I adore about David Greggory is the options for dining with so many tapas-like dishes, appetizers, and full or half entrees one can mix and match to satisfy one's appetite.

The 1/2 order of SEARED JUMBO LUMP CRABCAKE with Red Bell Pepper Relish, Asparagus and Mayonnaise Shallot Puree was, as always, one of the best crabcakes in town. What a relief to come home to a good tasty moist and meaty crabcake after those awful ones in South Carolina (it's odd that the Low Country folk know how to use crab on their entrees and cocktails, but not as a crabcake!).

Will had the FISH & CHIPS, also new on the menu and made from Tempura Fried Halibut Filet with Chips and Creamy Slaw. You will remember, that he hails from Yorkshire, the source of some of the best fish & chips in the world, and he agreed that Chef Greggory's preparation was tasty, moist, falkyu and quite delicious; a rare praise from this Brit on this dish.

The TRES LECHES Cake is always a tasty treat, but I kept to just two bites after too much food on vacation in South Carolina.

ALAN back home

Sunday, June 04, 2006

CYPRESS is supreme in Charleston, SC

I finally made it to CYPRESS (www.magnolias-blossom-cypress.com) the gastronomic realm of Chef Craig DEIHL here in Charleston, and truly one of the most beautiful places to dine in town. The tall backed green cloth covered chairs are so comfortable and the crisp white linens, Riedel crystal, two storey glass open wine cellar, open kitchen, exposed brick and more made it a true dining destination.

The three of us started with an excellent crisp, creamy and citrusy ELK GROVE Pinot Gris 2005 from Oregon. We all ordered the same items which may have been boring, but made us all happy, since the food is the star here. The SEARED FOIE GRAS on FRENCH TOAST with BOURBON MAPLE SYRUP and Toasted Pecans was superb, if a bit too overdosed with the sweet syrup. Some flash fried SAGE leaves made a nice contrast, and the Pinot Gris was perfect with the dish as a sweet wine would have just been double overdose.

The TRADITIONAL CAESAR Salad was prepared tableside and was indeed one of the best ever, I even got a wonderful marinated fresh anchovy on top.

We switched to an Oregon PINOT NOIR 2003 EVEHSAM WOOD "Cuvee J" that was excellent, full-bodied and loaded with fruit, if a bit too young, but opened up quite quickly. It was just right with the moderately spicy CRISP WASABI TUNA with EDAMAME, MUSHROOMS, and Ginger Garlic Glaze. We almost wanted a bit more spice, but the dish was superb and the crispy wrap around the rare fish was just a great concept. I had to go to a three hour opera, so we left blissfully full, but sadly skipping dessert.

I look forward to returning to CYPRESS on my next trip for a full evening of even more exciting dining!

Saturday, June 03, 2006

after midnight in Charleston, SC-make it MERITAGE and SWEETWATER Cafe simply sucks

This morning, I mourned the closing of The BAKERY CAFE in downtown Charleston, as it has moved out of town this past spring. I used to adore breakfast there with the superb breads, jams, spreads and delicious brunch items and exellent coffee. I did not mind waiting 10-30 minutes for this treat on weekends, but can tell you not to bother heading around the corner to the SWEETWATER Cafe, which is what I mistakenly did. While the coffee was good, I waited almost 30 minutes for my "breakfast sandwich" made up of a biscuit, fried egg, a slab of processed cheese (not even melted), and a slice of EXCELLENT BACON. It was a dry and boring concoction, not worth the wait, and frankly even thought the total tab with tax and tip came to $7.65, I still left very disappointed.

Last night, I had a reservation at 11PM at CYPRESS, one of the top places in town, but the opera ran late, and they don't serve dinner past 11PM, so I tried desperately to find someplace decent serving food after 1130PM and was directed to MERITAGE, a sort of Low Country Tapas place at 225 East Basy St. (tel 843-723-8181) (www.restaurant.com/meritage).

It was a bit noisy at the bar, but I got a table in the corner of the adjoining room and it was not too bad. I quickly ordered a glass of DVG "Emotion" Chardonnay 2003 from Burgundy which was crisp, steely and minerally; just right on a warm evening.

I enjoyed the DUCK CONFIT & LENTIL Salad with Shallot Truffle Vinaigrette, but it would have been better with MORE lentils and less PARSLEY. Does anyone really use so much parsley as a salad? A glass of THOMAS HALBY Pinot Noir 2002 from Oregon was perfect as well.

My server suggested the SPICE RUBBED HANGAR STEAK which at under $10 may have been "tapas" sized, but filled me to perfection. She hit the button just right when she suggested this GRILLED Steak with a Sauce of GOAT CHEESE FONDUE and topped with a SUPERB tangy ONION MARMALADE....WOW! And a glass of intensely dry and almost chalky RAMSAY LOT 3 Napa CABERNET 2000 was the perfect wine with this huge tasting dish.

I may have rolled home through the noisy streets of Charleston at almost 2am, but I was rolling happily. AND, I have rebooked CYPRESS for this evening!

Just right at JESTINE's KITCHEN

I have been trying to get into JESTINES KITCHEN at 251 Meeting Street here in Charleston for years. The problem is that they are either closed (their hours are 11am-9pm, or slightly later Tuesday thru Sunday) for holidays or the lines are just too long (and there are no reservations). This small "joint" serves "Southern food with lots of soul" and knows how to do it right and for very little. The napkins are thick green terry cloth hand towels, the decor is as ecelectic as it gets and the service is downright friendly.

I finally got in quite easily today at 3:30pm for a late lunch and started with the best CORN FRITTERS I have ever had on earth. They were fried crispy on the outside without a hint of grease, and the fresh corn poked through the batter all over the circumference. Inside was a tasty batter and loads more corn. YUM YUM, and served on several greens with a pepper relish made it even better.

My "plate" was MEATLOAF with GRAVY and the sides (every plate priced from $8-15 is served with a choice of two sides, as the Veggies ("Fresh & Soulful") are famous. I had the okay RED RICE and the SUPERB FRIED OKRA, small pieces of freshly cut okra (with no slimy feel at all!) fried perfectly and then I added a bit of hot sauce.

It was so hard to choose, but I was very happy with my choices, save the unexciting rice. Dessert led me right to the FRESH THREE BERRY COBBLER which was loaded with fresh wild blueberries and had a crunchy topping somewhere between granola bar and cake that was so tasty, I was tempted to go for seconds, but didn't.

I'm glad I finally got "in" at JESTINES.

Friday, June 02, 2006

Collector's Cafe is cool for Scallop Cake and Dessert-Myrtle Beach

Last night was our final restaurant meal during our week here in Myrtle Beach, SC. We chose COLLECTOR's CAFE at 7726 North Kings Highway, very close to our condo, and highly recommended by almost everyone we have spoken to here in town.

The unpresuming strip mall location (well, almost everything here is in some kind of mall) made the place a bit difficult to find at first. The simple decor with white cloths covered by heavy slabs of glass, green (ugly) carpet and greenish streaky walls would have been truly dreadful were it not for the abundance of artwork hanging in the various rooms (hence Collector's in the name). The two owners display their own art as well as revolving displays of other artists, but one of them admitted to us that the art came first, the food second (a scary thought for someone seeking fine dining). Little of the artwork indeed was to our liking, much of it modern, though not abstract, and often a bit on the exposed girlie theme, though not bad nudity, That said, we ordered a bottle of CHALONE 2004 Chardonnay and began to sip and contemplate our choices.

Warm bread came as our server poured some seasoned olive oil on our plates (and told us how it was all housemade). Sadly the bread was on the verge of stale, and after it cooled was literally as hard a rock!

Will chose the FRIED MAINE LOBSTER & PROVENCALE Chopped Vegetable Salad with Tomato Aioli and Fresh Basil, which paled next to the Flamingo Cafe's similar appetizer the night before. The size was also smaller and the sauce was pretty bland next to the wonderful light bernaise at Flamingo. The unsurpassed hit of the evening was the PAN SAUTEED SCALLOP CAKE with Tomato-Scallion-Garlic Butter, which I had as an appetizer, but is alos offered as an entree. This frittata-like preparation is loaded with huge chunks of scallop and the sauce was a delicious light creamy texture and so flavorful, I desperately wanted to mop it up (but the bread wasn't up to it at that point).

Our Caesar Salads came and the Romaine was a bit on the bitter side, though the croutons were excellent. Oddly, here (as compared to The Library) the sell-up is from Caesar to Baby Leaf Salad with Gorgonzola, which again, we all skipped for the extra $3 or so. Indeed, the Library's simple House Salad with Romano was the best all week.

One of us had the scallops as an entree, Will chose the dryish GROUPER SPECIAL with PEARL COUSCOUS, Peas, Chorizo (a teeeeny bit) and Olive Tapenade Sauce. Despite the fact that we asked for long spaces between the courses, our server mentioned that the food was on the way as she cleared the salads. OH NO, NOT AGAIN! We begged for time, and she managed to hold off the entrees for 15 or more minutes. We had not even been served our red wine which we had ordered about 10 minutes earlier, a DUTTON GOLDFIELDS PINOT NOIR 2004 from Dutton Ranch, Russian River which was simply excellent; the best deal we had all week, at $40-something. My GRILLED SEABASS over ARTICHOKE MASHED POTATOES, Mediterranean Roasted Vegetables was moist and tasty, but covered with some pretty bitter Arucola leaves. Oddly, the Grouper was covered with what we thought were pea greens (that would have been nice), which turned out to be fresh thyme (and I immediately spat out my mouthful as I chomped down on the twig).

Desserts here are a ht, so stick with the SCALLOP CAKE and desserts such as the excellent KEY LIME PIE or the PEACH UPSIDE DOWN CAKE with Vanilla Ice Cream and super-yummy CANDIED PECANS.

So, as we spend our last evening here in the condo tonight (Will, Sam & Aunt Erica head back to DC tomorrow, while I head over to Charleston) we reflect on the fact that Myrtle Beach may not be a dining destination, BUT there is some good food to be had provided you are well informed. We look forward to a return visit in the future as there is so much to do as well.