Saturday, April 30, 2022

Chicago's Elizabeth is elegant food in a simple setting that is supreme (4-6-22)

 We all met a wonderful woman named Meena on our recent cruise to South America and I was thrilled when she agreed to join me in Chicago for dinner earlier this month. I knew she was vegetarian and chose Elizabeth as they have a veggie tasting menu(or so we thought). During the reservation process I noticed their menu was changing regularly with some fish and meat, so I was sure to advise them that Meen ate no meat or fish (you know where this is going).

I arrived a tad late as Chicago rush hour was a disaster, but everyone seemed very cool as the small restaurant with only 8 tables had only one seating and they all just were so chill. Our server Jeni brought us adorable little menus and we noticed there were some fish and meat courses, so I reminded them that Meena was vegetarian. Rather than do wine pairings, I chose a bottle of Negroamaro Rosato from Martha Stoumen 2017in Mendocino, California which was a yummy rose and paired well with the first dishes superbly. Allie, the sommelieuse, was very helpful and explained that they have a large selection of women winemakers. Elizabeth used to be owned and run by women and while there are still plenty on the team, in 2020 it was sold to Tim Lacey who now has Chef Ian Jones helming the kitchen. They all were tableside to present, announce and serve dishes; it's a warm hands-on place that makes you fell at home. Snacks #1 starts off with Fried Lion's Mane Mushroom with White Truffle Aioli and a Tartine of Artichoke with Meyer Lemon, Microgreens, Tahini, Tonburi & Broccoli. Check out the FB photos as each presentation is indeed simply gorgeous. Next came a raw Spot Prawn with Trout Roe, Dashi, Shiso Oil, Sea Beans & Guanciale(pork cheek) and I noticed the dish was given to us both. I mentioned that Meena was a vegetarian and they must have thought I was looney! Meena said it was okay, but I insisted as I saw more fish and meat later in the menu. They took both plates away and returned minutes later with my same dish (it was a room temperature dish) and one for Meena using hearts of palm.
Celeriac Al Pastor is a play on the Taco, but here Celery root is used with fermented pineapple salsa, fermented yuba & coriander in a tofu skin "taco." It was fun to eat, a tad messy, but a crunchy treat.
Next came the White Asparagus with Carolina Gold & Wild Rice, Raw Quail Egg, Hazelnut,  Idiazabel Cheese, White Asparagus Puree, Pickled asparagus and a truffle Gougere on the side. I loved my white asparagus the night before, but this dish was dreamy beyond amazing. 
Tteok-Bokki is a beef heart ragu with fried rice-cake, salsa rossa and was served with a Semolina focaccia in a tiny cast iron pan on the side. As if this was not enough the focaccia came with black butter which I called a little ball of heaven and made with whipped butter and a shell of charcoal and white chocolate!! Oh and dehydrated olives!

We needed to move on to red wine and Allie suggested a 2020 "Henry's Seven" Barossa from South Australia's Henschke Vineyard which we adored despite its youth. The wine had an earthy shitake mushroom aroma and again was a perfect pairing with the rest of our dishes.

Cauliflower was next with Green Pistachio Romesco, Black Truffle Aioli and Plum Aioli with fermented cauliflower relish and black truffle! you would never guess the chef likes truffles and so did we!! Sweet Breads were divine served with Morel Mushrooms stuffed with Foie Gras and a divine Madeira Jus with Foie Gras as well as Black Fig Jam. For Meena, the kitchen was really turning out amazing veggie options and instead of sweetbreads came up with turnips!
The next course was a Fried Quail Lollipop with Green Onion Dipping Sauce and for Meena a Mushroom Purse. There was also Quail breast with Grilled Spring Onion Herb Butter and Grilled Sourdough bread....my carb levels must have been insane.

I saw the dessert on the menu and was thrilled when STROOPWAFFLE which was a flax taco filled with the kombu caramel, Japanese rice puffs, dried Kombu and Oxallis leaves(citrus) arrived. WHO KNEW?
Next was the SOURDOUGH ICE CREAM with A5 Caramel(made with Wagyu fat) that was insanely divine.
Refreshing Harry's Berrys come from California and were poached with Creme Baumaniere(pastry cream) and lime granita with a red-syrup and anise-foam vinegar(I could not taste the anise).

Snacks#2 arrived atop reindeer moss in the form of an Earl Gray-Kumquat Gummy with Oat Milk, Bon Bon with Nyangbo(Valhrhona) Chocolate, Caramel ganache, Milk Chocolate & Yuzu and a Meringue of Pomegranate and dehydrated fermented Blueberry!! 
As if this was not enough we left with Lapsang Souchong Earl Grey Teabags for later...
Once we got everything sorted out, Elizabeth was indeed an experience and a dream meal and such a cozy quiet setting that I would not hesitate to return again and again.


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Sunday, April 24, 2022

Chicago's PORTO is about preserves and terrific tastings (4-5-22)

 Yes, I am way behind in postings and will apologize asking your patience.

My first night in Chicago earlier this month took me to Porto just west of mid-town where the unassuming entrance (as many Chicago spots in winter) had a huge, blanketed entry to keep the drafts out. inside the space opened up to high tin ceilings and a huge central "bar" that was a prep kitchen around which the single guests (like moi) sat chatting with the super kitchen team headed by Erwin from France. My Dijonnaise hostess seated me and introduced me to my server Eddie and ultimately the brilliant sommelier Charles arrived as well. I was very impressed by the service and totally inundated by the various menus and options, so chose the tasting menu for $120 and then ordered a creamy white 2020 Costers del Priorat "Blanc de Pissarres" made from Grenache Blanc, Macabeo and Pedro Ximenez for $60 that was superb with so many of my first rounds of dishes. They do have parings here, but I felt that I could do better choosing my own wines, and it was indeed a great idea.
The sparkling water was Vichy Catalan which is so popular in Spain, but a tad too salty for me.
I watched intently as dishes were prepped in front of me and my first plate "CONSERVAS & SEAWEED" arrived. Photos are available on Fb and you need to see them all to realize how intricate the plating was as well. This dish had (1)Pomme Paysan which was crispy and crunchy potato, (2) Turbot with Escabeche Mussel, Yuzu Oil, Pickled Combo Seaweed,  & (3)Seaweed foam that looked like a wave. The plate was actually a huge dried preserved turbo head and bones!
Oysters (BadAss(the company) from Chingon, Baja California) were next and came with (1)cold smoked Oyster with codium seaweed escabeche, white soy & cured grape, nori seaweed &  (2)Poached Oyster with cava emulsion and yuzu "caviar"
Uni Toast is worth the trip alone to Porto and is called Huevas de Erizo de Mar and since it is preserved Uni (from la Brujula Uni Conserva in Spain) less potent than the fresh version. Here it came with smoked Cauliflower, Sao Jorge Cheese Puree(very funky for sure), Nori Seaweed & Lemon Gel atop a toasted brioche and was served atop a small jar filled to the rim with tiny seashells. OMG!
I love rilettes and the RILETTES de TRUCHA were made with Smoked Wild Trout, Galician Sea Lettuce, Mayo, Creme Fraiche, Smoked Trout Roe, Codium Seaweed on a Nori Tarlette. My response was "I could eat this all night," and it will forever be my favorite single snack if anyone else can manage to create it.
I saw Erwin making the magnificent Steak Tartare, so a plate arrived for me in between my regular courses and I am so grateful as it was truly awesome.
RAZOR CLAMS & WHITE ASPARAGUS (Navajas y Esparragos) was one of the reasons I chose this menu as I adore those huge white asaparagus from Europe at this time of the year, but these were a conserved version from Navarra, Spain served with also conserved La Brujula Razor Clams, codium seaweed,  "Guac", Oyster Espuma and Golden Kaluga Caviar . Super tasty but I was all set for the fresh ones.
COD(Bacalhau) was actually from Japan and grilled on Binchotan Charcoal with Butternut Squash, Wild Mushrooms, Smoked Cream  and a side bowl "Caldo Verde" with tripe, cod tongue, cod belly, potato, turnip and fried Beluga lentils. This dish was huge so I tended to taste each section to get a feel as I knew more was coming.
About this time I also switched to a red wine, but alas cannot seem to find my notes on it.
CUTTLEFISH(Mle del Mar) was next with Portuguese cuttlefish, Fermented Quid Ink, Smoked Seaweed Sofrito, Potato & Toasted Bomba Rice foam. I have never been a big cuttlesih fan since my first time having it was over 35 years ago in Hong Kong where it was like eating rubber. Of course, nowadays chefs cook it well and it is tender and delish as this was.
Blood Sausage "Morcilla" was a revelation with the Tuna & Squab(how is that for a combo) spiced Morcilla with Roasted Apple & Vermouth Puree, Crispy Squab Skin(yum), Tuna & Shio Koji Consomme (to cut the richness).
Y'all know dessert is not my thing but PLAYA was a treat created by pastry chef Shannah and was a small dish as well of Toasted Barley Foam, Wood-fired Sweet Potato Ice Cream, Wildflower Honey all assembled with Passionfruit, Nori Seaweed & Carrot Cake that looked like sea and sand. with Berries from La Brujula Navajas in brine!!
So they could tell I liked my wine and sent out an awesome 2003 Quinta de Portal Vintage port, and those of you who know, it was our son Sam's birth year and considered one of the greatest port vintages ever. we have a lot of 2003 but have held off; maybe it is ready now...or soon.
Indeed they insisted I stay and have some Pedro Ximiez Venerable Sherry V.O.R.S. 30 year aged followed by Amara Nonna...glad I was only Ubering back to the Waldorf Astoria! 
My journey through the Iberian Peninsula was complete and I had it all at this beautiful marbled bar counter with everyone spaced 4-6 feet apart and small tables scattered around. A quiet serene place, this is a wonderful treat for singles or anybody looking for something very different on your plate(s)!

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