Saturday, April 30, 2022

Chicago's Elizabeth is elegant food in a simple setting that is supreme (4-6-22)

 We all met a wonderful woman named Meena on our recent cruise to South America and I was thrilled when she agreed to join me in Chicago for dinner earlier this month. I knew she was vegetarian and chose Elizabeth as they have a veggie tasting menu(or so we thought). During the reservation process I noticed their menu was changing regularly with some fish and meat, so I was sure to advise them that Meen ate no meat or fish (you know where this is going).

I arrived a tad late as Chicago rush hour was a disaster, but everyone seemed very cool as the small restaurant with only 8 tables had only one seating and they all just were so chill. Our server Jeni brought us adorable little menus and we noticed there were some fish and meat courses, so I reminded them that Meena was vegetarian. Rather than do wine pairings, I chose a bottle of Negroamaro Rosato from Martha Stoumen 2017in Mendocino, California which was a yummy rose and paired well with the first dishes superbly. Allie, the sommelieuse, was very helpful and explained that they have a large selection of women winemakers. Elizabeth used to be owned and run by women and while there are still plenty on the team, in 2020 it was sold to Tim Lacey who now has Chef Ian Jones helming the kitchen. They all were tableside to present, announce and serve dishes; it's a warm hands-on place that makes you fell at home. Snacks #1 starts off with Fried Lion's Mane Mushroom with White Truffle Aioli and a Tartine of Artichoke with Meyer Lemon, Microgreens, Tahini, Tonburi & Broccoli. Check out the FB photos as each presentation is indeed simply gorgeous. Next came a raw Spot Prawn with Trout Roe, Dashi, Shiso Oil, Sea Beans & Guanciale(pork cheek) and I noticed the dish was given to us both. I mentioned that Meena was a vegetarian and they must have thought I was looney! Meena said it was okay, but I insisted as I saw more fish and meat later in the menu. They took both plates away and returned minutes later with my same dish (it was a room temperature dish) and one for Meena using hearts of palm.
Celeriac Al Pastor is a play on the Taco, but here Celery root is used with fermented pineapple salsa, fermented yuba & coriander in a tofu skin "taco." It was fun to eat, a tad messy, but a crunchy treat.
Next came the White Asparagus with Carolina Gold & Wild Rice, Raw Quail Egg, Hazelnut,  Idiazabel Cheese, White Asparagus Puree, Pickled asparagus and a truffle Gougere on the side. I loved my white asparagus the night before, but this dish was dreamy beyond amazing. 
Tteok-Bokki is a beef heart ragu with fried rice-cake, salsa rossa and was served with a Semolina focaccia in a tiny cast iron pan on the side. As if this was not enough the focaccia came with black butter which I called a little ball of heaven and made with whipped butter and a shell of charcoal and white chocolate!! Oh and dehydrated olives!

We needed to move on to red wine and Allie suggested a 2020 "Henry's Seven" Barossa from South Australia's Henschke Vineyard which we adored despite its youth. The wine had an earthy shitake mushroom aroma and again was a perfect pairing with the rest of our dishes.

Cauliflower was next with Green Pistachio Romesco, Black Truffle Aioli and Plum Aioli with fermented cauliflower relish and black truffle! you would never guess the chef likes truffles and so did we!! Sweet Breads were divine served with Morel Mushrooms stuffed with Foie Gras and a divine Madeira Jus with Foie Gras as well as Black Fig Jam. For Meena, the kitchen was really turning out amazing veggie options and instead of sweetbreads came up with turnips!
The next course was a Fried Quail Lollipop with Green Onion Dipping Sauce and for Meena a Mushroom Purse. There was also Quail breast with Grilled Spring Onion Herb Butter and Grilled Sourdough bread....my carb levels must have been insane.

I saw the dessert on the menu and was thrilled when STROOPWAFFLE which was a flax taco filled with the kombu caramel, Japanese rice puffs, dried Kombu and Oxallis leaves(citrus) arrived. WHO KNEW?
Next was the SOURDOUGH ICE CREAM with A5 Caramel(made with Wagyu fat) that was insanely divine.
Refreshing Harry's Berrys come from California and were poached with Creme Baumaniere(pastry cream) and lime granita with a red-syrup and anise-foam vinegar(I could not taste the anise).

Snacks#2 arrived atop reindeer moss in the form of an Earl Gray-Kumquat Gummy with Oat Milk, Bon Bon with Nyangbo(Valhrhona) Chocolate, Caramel ganache, Milk Chocolate & Yuzu and a Meringue of Pomegranate and dehydrated fermented Blueberry!! 
As if this was not enough we left with Lapsang Souchong Earl Grey Teabags for later...
Once we got everything sorted out, Elizabeth was indeed an experience and a dream meal and such a cozy quiet setting that I would not hesitate to return again and again.


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