Monday, December 31, 2007

NewYear's Eve Dining is delicious at DINO's with Samuel

Upon receiving an email last month for the $75 multi-course tasting (for seating prior to 630pm) we decided this would be the perfect place as Samuel always loves the pasta there and indeed was very happy with his SPAGHETTI with Tomato Sauce and ONE GIANT MEATBALL. He was able to slosh on as much parmesan as he liked and enjoyed his new addition, a ginger ale. At the same time, we got to pig-out and celebrate New Year's Eve, if a bit early.

The tasting offered a number of selections but all started with a glass of POSECCO CIMA de CONEGLIANO and a plate of TRIS di CAVIALE or three American caviars (Arctic Char, Hackleback and Smoked Steelhead) with garnish.

The atmosphere was one of a real neighborhood spot with a number of young kids and some older diners as well in the "early seating." Will chose to start with the TORTA di FUNGHI which was a crunchy tart of wild mushroom, burdock root & salsify with truffled potato and leek sauce; it was his least favorite part of the meal. My PICCIONE was a tasty chunk of Herb Roasted Breast of Squab with a superb Confit of LEEKS & Natural Pan Juices.

Each course came with a selection of wines for a surcharge. There was the "Really Good" option of 4-3 ounce pours for $40, or the "Incredible" which was $81. The former was quite good, while the latter was superb, but perhaps a bit high on the price range until we hit the Barolo. No matter --it was New Year's Eve and all the wine was beyond enjoyable. We shared one selection of each category so we could taste them all. This course came with a DE CONCILIIS AGLIANICO di PAESTUM 2005 and an ANTICO BROILO SCHIOPPETTINO 2004.

The next course was superb across the board with Will opting for the PAPPARDELLE all'ARAGOSTA, our favorite ribbon pasta with Lobster, Cauliflower and Tarragon Tomato Sauce. My BRASATO di MANZO "WAGYU" was an excellent Australian Braised Wagyu Short Rib Braised in a luscious PINOT NOIR Sauce on Creamy Polenta with Marrow Butter...sheer heaven and I mopped up every last drop of the sauce. The wines were a wonderful HOFSTATTER "Steinraffler" LAGREIN 1999 from Alto Adige that I adored and a DE CONCILIIS "Si Kube" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005.

We asked for a break and enjoyed twp extra tastes of wines: MESSAPICUS 2004 from COPERTINO in Puglia made from Negroamaro, Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Malvasia which had a slight Rhone blend flavor and a RONCODEL GNEMIZ "Jacopo" 2004 which is Cabernet, Merlot & Schippettino that we liked even more.

Sam was on his berries and vanilla gelato by now and we enjoyed the excellent entrees with Will have the COSTOLETTE di CINGHIALE, a rack of three wild boar ribs, cave-aged cheddar & potato gratin and juniper jus. My PETTO d'ANATRA was two huge slices of LAVENDER-HONEY Glazed DUCK Breast with a slightly too sweet for me SWEET POTATO MASCARPONE Puree. The wines were a DEFORVILLE "Vignetto Loreto" 2003 Barbaresco and that unreal GIUSEPPI MASCARELLO "Monprivato" 2000 BAROLO.

Desserts came from a choice of a long list and Will could not resist the TIRAMISU laced with Kahlua, Frangelico & Irish Cream. He asked Dean (the owner) if the recipe was new and indeed Chef STEPHAN BOILLON had made changes which improved on the previous recipe multi-fold. I opted for the trio of cheeses and basked in some real treats: CORA ROBIOLA "La Rosa" a cherry leaf wrapped cow,sheep & goat combo robiola from Cuneo) that was perfect to start.

GUFFANTI CASTELMAGNO was a raw milk that was super crumbly and went wonderfully with the dried berry mostardo on the side. The CORA BLU di BACCO was a very mild blue from Cuneo that was superb with the COLUTTA PICOLIT 2004 "sauternes-like" dessert wine from the "Incredible list" while the POPPIANO "Il Cortile" 1999 Vin Santo form the "really good" side may have been one of the best vin santos I have had in a long time!

We headed out after 2-1/2 hours during all of which Samuel was an angel and then went on to a wonderful (if only for an hour) New Year's Eve party near our home.

Another great dining night at Dino's!

Friday, December 28, 2007

Norman's novel cuisine raises the Ritz in Orlando, FL

We ended our two week vacation to Central America (cruise) and Florida at our hotel's signature restaurant, and one of the top rated restaurant's in the Orlando area, NORMAN's at the Ritz-Carlton Grande Lakes (www.normans.com). Both Will and I had anticipated this evening as we have had so many wonderful dining experiences at Chef Norman Aiken's first signature spot in Coral Gables (Miami) and this was his second restaurant, now open almost 4 years. Indeed, he recently opened a third spot in Key West, where he is apparently spending the bulk of his time.

At the Ritz in Orlando, Chef Clay Miller is in charge, and as he made his rounds through the intimate, warm and exclusive restaurant, we discovered that he had worked for an old acquaintance of mine, Chef Gunther Seeger (who is now Atlanta based and quite well known), amongst many others such as stint under our friend Eric Zieboldt now at CityZen in DC, when they were at the French Laundry together. His credits are pedigree and his inventiveness shows, as you shall see if you read on.

We arrived in the dining room having been told that shorts, jeans and sandals are not allowed, and jackets are requested (though not required). The gentleman in front of us was a "regular" of some sorts and insisted on a table for two even though he was in shorts, flip-flops and a polo shirt. When we got to the reception desk, I said that I hope he was being seated in the men's rooms with such an outifit! The hostess said that he had been there before (is this an excuse?) and he was seated on a banquette with tablecloth covering his exposed legs and feet. We, on the other hand, looking so elegant, were seated at a table with a view of the whole room, outside and a glance through to the open kitchen as well.

The dining room is a large octagonal shape with red and beige marble inlaid flooring (reeking of Ritz-Carlton, but quite nice I must say). The center of the room had a raised dark wood vaulted octagonal dome with four vertical wine cabinets setting off a table at the center. We were greeted by manager Pietro who spoke of Italy, the wine, and the food with great love. Speaking of wine, super kudos to the wine list with dozens of wines available by the glass, 250ml (1/3 bottle) and 500ml (2/3 bottle) as well as many half bottles and a wide variety of wines to boot.

We started with the NORMAN's Cuvee IRON HORSE BRUT 1998 from Sonoma Green Valley which was slightly yeasty and refreshing (it had been a sunny 83 degree day at the pool relaxing before our return home today). We were also glad to see Pellegrino on the water list as it had seemed that only that overly-gassy awful Perrier was available at so many Disney and central Florida spots!

We looked over the menu, but we both knew full well what we had come for - THE TASTING MENU, which our wonderful server Frank explained was available at 4 to 7 courses for approximately $20/course; guess what we chose? RIGHT- the whole 7-course shebang, and we left so full, we didn't need a bite today (even though we did eat). We mentioned to Frank that several items on the menu excited us and he had them all included in the tasting, which was really pretty fabulous save for one dish.

Course #1 was the CROQUETAS de BACALAO with MOJO MAYO dip which were rich, creamy and not amazingly more fantastic than those we had previously on this trip due to the chilis inside, the fab mayo, even if a bit salty (well, they are made from salted cod!). The wine was one we have always liked, but not had in some time as the WAIRAU RIVER SAUVIGNON BLANC from New Zealand has gone up a lot in price over the years, At Norman's it is a whopping $11/glass, but also available at $18 for 1/3 bottle, $36 for 2/3 bottle or $52 for the whole bottle (to give an example). It is an intense grapefruit citrus wine and worked perfectly with the salt, cod, richness and spice. Will liked dipping the excellent puffy and salty rolls (almost like sopapillas) in the mayo as well!

Course #2 was a highlight: CRISPY VANILLA BRAISED PORK BELLY with Fontina CHESTNUT Ravioli, Black Olive, SAFFRON pickled QUINCE & MANCHEGO FROTH. The meat was fabulous and I commented how nice it was to have pork belly with about 80% meat rather than 80% FAT! The wine pairing was Pietro's favorite rose, MAS DE LA DAME 2006 Les Baux de Provence, which while a nice wine, I felt was not quite right for this rich dish. Will thought the acidity of the wine was refreshing for the palate with the dish, while I would have liked a medium red a bit more.

At this point, as a father of a 4-1/2 year old I have to ask a question that might seem odd. While at Disneyworld the day before there were plenty of urinals for the kids (at low level) with often only one or NO sinks lower than the others. In the Ritz-Carlton restrooms, the same applied. In a place, where kids abound, why do bathrooms not have low sinks so we don't have to haul our kids up to wash their hands? Stepladders would be a nice alternative, and yesterday afternoon, I turned over a wastebasket, so I didn't have to hold Samuel up to wash his hands at the poolside men's rooms. Indeed, the decor of the Ritz bathroom closest to Norman's needs severe rethinking. It has the standard Ritz elegance with marbled floors and walls, but above this the wallpaper is so busy that it competes with the marble and honestly made me a bit queasy!

Back in the dining room, course number 3 was entitled "FIRE & ICE" New York State FOIE GRAS served cold (torchon), having been grilled and rolled and sprinkled with allspice and a bit to much (though I love it) salt. The opposite side of the dish was hot CARAMEL POACHED and was simply to die for--being the perfect piece of foie gras and so wonderfully prepared. On the side was KUMQUAT JAM and a slice of warm gingerbread as well as a slice of tasty duck prosciutto with a super smokey taste. The wine was a perfect CHATEAU RABAUD-PROMIS 2003 SAUTERNES Premiere Cru that I would be happy to drink with foie gras
any day.

Next came the ROASTED FLORIDA GULF POMPANO (we needed SOMETHING local) with Brussel Sprouts & Pork Cheek Hash, A "Ham Jam," Red Wine Bacon Jus & Bacon Tuille. This was another superb combination, if a bit overloaded with to many things and flavors. It sat on a Sweet Potato Puree with a piece of unneeded Pork Cheek as the fish was superb. A PRIORAT 2003 FONT DE LA FIGUERA was a big strong red wine that went well with the heavy flavors, but still needs a bit more time in the bottle.

The fifth course was the one that left us a bit confused: TAMARIND-SOY GLAZED SWEETBREADS were beautifully served with a paintbrush slash of tamarind across the plate and a magnificent CARAMELIZED CAULIFLOWER & CAULIFLOWER PUREE(really flan). The way to cloyingly sweet sweetbreads sat atop a crispy chickpea pancake that was not enough to tone done the tamarinds super sweetness; an accompanying almond tuille was almost rubbery. Luckily, we were getting quite full and di not mind skipping a bite here or there. The excellent LADERA 2004 NAPA CAB was a great pairing and along with the cauliflower did help a bit to tone
down the dish's sweetness.

CHEESE was a welcome sight as we had not had a good piece of cheese on this entire trip. It was served with a strawberry/balsamic.black pepper jam (quite tasty), nuts and breads: The mildest were the TOMME de SAVOIE and the P'TITE BASQUE from France with the FLEUR de MAQUIS Sheep following close behind with its rosemary crust. MONTBRIAC was right in there making our choice seem very mild but the PONT L'EVEQUE was a dream, even if Will did say it had the stench of Old Victorian urine (does anyone know what that smells like?). The strongest was the almost blue COACH FARM PYRAMIDES Goat with Green Peppercorn.

We specifically asked for red wine and a DUORO Portuguese DUAS QUINTAS 2000 Ramos Pinto came made from Touriga Nacional and it was a great wine for the final glass before moving to sweet.

The sweet wines were two not too impressive ones. For me a sparkling red BRACHETTO d'ACQUA to accompany MADAGASCAR VANILLA BEAN PANNA COTTA with Wild Mountain HUCKLEBERRY Puree and ALLSPICE CRUMBLE (really a crumbly cake underneath the panna cotta) which was a sensational dessert. Will opted for a super RHUM Ice Cream and okay Cocount Sorbet with a MARCARINI 2003 Moscato d'Asti which also was not a big hit; as you know we prefer sweet thick dessert wines.

Needless to say, we left full and do hope to return to Norman's in Miami, Key West or Orlando again soon, even with the way too sweet sweetbreads!

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Disney dining-the Crystal Palace with Winnie the Pooh/Terrific TAQUITOS JALISCO (Orlando,FL)

Today we took Samuel to the Magic Kingdom at Walt Disney World here in Orlando, FL and we pre-reserved the Winnie the Pooh & Friends Character lunch at the Crystal Palace which is a $24 buffet (1/2 price for kids) which was actually pretty good. While Sam adored being photographed and filmed with his friends Tigger & Pooh and eating the pizza, green beans, chicken nuggets, tomato salad and soft serve ice cream, we thought the meats and fish were excellent, especially the FLANK STEAK. The salads were superb and I thought the Zinfandel dressing was a treat.

Tonight we dined at TAQUITOS JALISCO (a real local spot at 2419 S Hiawassee Rd) which serves tradiitona Tex-Mex food and even had a xylophone player who was quite good. While Sam enjoyed soft chicken tacos, rice and tomato salad (he skipped the beans), we sipped our large superb $5 huge Margaritas and munched the yummy chips and medium mediocre salsa.

Will's entree was a PLATA de GUADALAJARA which had taco, enchilada and a great chile relleno and always with refried beans and rice; a side of guacamole was cilnaro intense and very nice, My PLATA MEXICANA was a bit smaller with a beef and chicken taco (the latter was much tastier) and a yummy fried chicken Flauta.

We headed home as it had been a long day and tomorrow look forward to dining here at the Ritz-Carlton at NORMAN'S!

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

THAI THANI takes Thai food serious...Orlando

We opted to have dinner just down the block from our hotel (The Ritz-Carlton, of course) on International Drive across from SeaWorld at THAI THANI (Also with locations in Tampa & Clearwater) and were mildly surprised by the warm excellent (and not at all tacky) Thai decor...I loved the mini replica of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok that matched by bicentennial coin for the city of the same name that I purchased years ago. At 6pm, the place was pretty empty, when we left at 730pm, there were lines and folks seated at the entry.

Samuel enjoyed several appetizers as his main course: THAI THANI ANGLE WINGS (he said they were called so because they had an angle) stuffed with PORK, Water Chestnut, Clear Noodles, Black Mushrooms & Garlic and served with a Sweet Plum Sauce (which Sam omitted, but we loved).

EGG ROLLS- a veggie version with sweet and sour sauce He ate tons of these and we also enjoyed an order of TOD MUNN my beloved Thai FISH CAKES with Red Curry Paste and Chilie Sweet Sauce with Cucumber.

A bottle of PROSPER MAUFOUX 2003 Pouilly-Fuisse was a nice light and acidic foil to the spice, b ut was oddly served with chilled glasses.

Will and I decided to continue with an order of traditional PAD THAI and this was indeed the best I have ever had in a restaurant. Several plump shrinp mixed in with the rice noodles and sprouts, a pile of yummy peanut chunks, egg and a lime for perfection.

Our next and final entree was the excellent quality TIGER TEAR BEEF a Northern Thai specialty made from grilles top quality steak with vegetables (cabbage, carrots and broccoli) and a spicy dipping sauce (a milder version arrived on the spot when Will requested it) and rice. A glass of house Round Hill Merlot was nice, but wins nor prizes.

We departed happilY after chatting with an English family with a 2+year old at the next table (the Brits are EVERYWHERE here as the dollar is so cheap for them!).

Mike's Smokehouse BQ & Grill in Tampa might be tops for BBQ

We headed east from St.Pete Beach this morning and decided to stop at Tampa's top spot for BBQ located just NE of the city (they have a location also to the west just across the bay-www.smokehousebbqandgrill.com) and we were treated to a BBQ better than we have ever had in Texas and a real home warm feeling as well.

Samuel was happy with his chicken tenders and after much coaxing ate most of his superb HUSH PUPPIES.

Will and I went for the traditional sandwiches with his being solely the PULLED PORK and mine being the combo PULLED PORK & BEEF combo. The meat was supeb and gthere were about four or five BBQ sauces to try..we liked the housemade MILD BBQ with a bit of spice best. My side of COLE SLAW was dreamy and Will went for the Baked Beans loaded with pork.

This place has take-out, eat-in, deals and meals and if you are ever in the area..it's a not miss!

Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Christmas at COLUMBIA is cool Latin cuisine in St. Petersburg, FL

Tonight we returned across the peninsula to St. Petersburg (the city, as opposed to the beach where we are staying) to COLUMBIA RESTAURANT located atop the PIER with beautiful views of the downtown as well as the bay. Samuel joined us in the historic restaurant which has its roots over 100 years ago in Ybor City (the original is still there and now seats of 1700!) where it was founded by Cuban immigrants in 1905. We started with a pitcher of the SANGRIA de CAVA made tableside with Cristalino Cava and Torres brandy...YUM YUM and Samuel quickly got his STEAK & FRIES which was very akin to the French "steak/frites" in that it was a simple yet tasty hanger-like cut with fries....he devoured almost al of this large child portion (FOR $4.95 WITH DRINK!!).

We chose several tapas to start with and loved them all: CROQUETAS de POLLO were served with the very hot COLUMBIA HOT SAUCE on the side and were creamy tasty versions made with Cuban bread crumbs. The MEJILLONS y CHORIZO "Andres"was an almost entree sized portion of plump PEI MUSSELS with tomato (huge cooked chunks), basil, spinach, garlic, white wine and lemon with the homemade Columbia chorizo...this was a dream dish.

SHRIMP & CRAB ALCACHOFAS was more of a creamy dip from artichoke, shrimp & crab served with large oyster-like crackers.

Will and I decided to split an entree of POMPANO en PAPILLOT which is a dish that dates to the 1940's and has stayed on the menu for some time. Made with SHRIMP, CRAB, ARTICHOKE and White Wine Butter Sauce and baked in parchment paper the fish came completely burnt the first time. Our super server, Earl from Arkansas, was back within 2 minutes with a fresh and delicious portion, served with yellow rice and peas. We were impressed and very happy. A bottle of ANTU NINQUEN 2004 Syrah from Chile was a great and huge impressive wine. This is a joint venture in the Colchagua Valley by Paul Hobbs and Mont Gras Vineyards which would easily top anyone's super impressive wine list from Chile. Will loved the CREMA CATALANA which was burned tableside to his desire and Sam gave it a "two pats on his belly" rating, although he really like his STRAWBERRIES served in strawberry sauce with whipped cream. We all went happy and spent tons less than the previous night--surprise!

Monday, December 24, 2007

mediocre MARITANA doesn't make it on Xmas Eve-St. Petersburg Beach, FL

While the metro Tampa/St. Petersburg area has some fine restaurants, most of them tend to be closed on Christmas Eve, so we opted to dine 2 blocks down the road from our place (The Don Cesar Beach Suites) in the main dining room of the grande dame hotel of the area...MARITANA at the DON CESAR HOTEL (that big pink palace on the beach that Sam loves). Our expectations were high and were sometimes met, but not often enough to make the $300 tab really worth it.

We liked the huge fish tanks at the entrance with lion fish and more and those along the wall, but managed to get the one booth that faced a mirror.The light wood, big banquettes and ceiling fans give an airy and seafaring feeling, and our server Marc (from Quebec) seemed able enough as well.

We started with a DARIOUSH VIOGNIER 2006 which is super creamy with a citrus tang on the tong and immediately received our superb amuse of CREAM of TOMATO-BASIL soup with Basil Oil and Lump Crab Garnish which was really a rich bisque in a demitasse with nice chunks of tasty crabmeat. The bread came next and we got even more impressed with the beautifully presented herb grissini held up by slices of semolina and ended by two types of focaccia (potato and rosemary). A huge head of roasted garlic and carafes of extra virgin olive oil and balsamic were there for garnish. Where do I begin?

Will started with a GRAVLAX of SALMON, LUMP CRAB MEAT and TUNA TIMBALE which was atop MANGO Carpaccio with Citrus Vinaigrette, The description confused me as the timbale was mostly tuna topped with crab and a garnish of salmon and should have been ordered in reverse on the menu based on ingredients, even if it was very nice. My dreamy MAINE LOBSTER AGNOLOTTI were served atop wilted LEEKS, CORAL BUTTER with White TRUFFLE OIL and had the food stayed at this level, we would have been very happy.

We ordered a bottle of DOMAINE CARNEROS 2004 Chardonnay which was really very UNEXCITING for a Carneros Chard and then split a salad of MAINE LOBSTER & WHITE ASPARAGUS with Lemongrass Vinaigrette which was bland and unexciting save for the edible DINDROVOIUM orchid!

Entrees were a PAN SEARED SEA SCALLOP with Lobster Risotto, Roasted Beets and a bare tad of Osetra Caviar with Citrus Vinaigrette (the chef seems to like citrus vinaigrette!) which Will did not rave about, while my ORANGE HABANERO cream sauced GROUPER with a WARM LOBSTER, PINEAPPLE & VANILLA BEAN STEW on the side became miraculous when the two were combined to foil the spiciness with the slight sweet. Glazed Banana and Rum Pepper Paint finished off this wonderful inventive and superb tasting dish.

Sadly, when our glasses were refilled a different waiter poured someone else's Pouilly Fuisse into our Chardonnay and had to dump the glasses (it DID taste AWFUL!). He said he would pay (an odd usage or term) for additional glasses for us.

We decided to split the RASPBERRY SOUFFLE and order just one glass of dessert wine between us (which the other waiter was "paying" for"). From here on in, everything went downhill. The OREMUS TOKAJI 1999 Aszu Puttonyos was really a boring dessert wine, with little sweetness and I could only help thinking the bottle had been open for days or the vintage just sucked. The souffle was fine for two bites, but the entire inside was uncooked. We told Marc to simply take it back and bring the check (minus the souffle, of course). It came fast enough with some superb chocolates, but HOW CHINCY CAN YOU BE when you bring two DIFFERENT chocolates for two people, so they have to split the CAPPUCCINO and PRALINE (which was GREAT) so they can each taste each type!

Like I said, highs and lows, but not worth the tab.

Sunday, December 23, 2007

St. Petersburg's (FL) CEVICHE is a super spot

Last night was a special evening for all of us as Samuel, Will and I joined our friend's Phyllis (yes, she is a Phyllis-teen too!) from Naples, Florida here in St. Petersburg, Florida for the afternoon and evening. We met them almost 8 years ago cruising in Costa Rica and have stayed in touch ever since. It was a great reunion (their first time meeting Sam) capped by a wonderful meal at CEVICHE Tapas Bar and Restaurant with other locations in Orlando & Tampa as well (www.cevichetapas.com).

I called over a month ago and they said they don't take reservations except for parties of six or more, but upon arrival we realized they have no tables made for 5 people, so we could not get one for 6 as they were all reserved. They finally put two tables together and solved the problem; from here on in it was a treat

We got Samuel an order of ALBONDIGAS-veal, chorizo and pork meatballs in a piquant tomato sauce which he adored. His second tapas was the PAPAS FRITAS-housemade potato chips with crumbles Cabrales blue cheese which he also gobbled up along with the rest of us.

Meanwhile we were sipping a VINA SALCEDA RESERVA 2001 from Rioja region made from Tempranillom Maziano and Graciano grapes. This wine resembled a red zin as it had lots of spice in the finish and went with the varied tapas we ordered. We might have normally started with white, but the place had the a/c on so high (it was 70 outside and 65 inside!) we opted to head for a warm red right away. Our second wine was an amazing CONDESA de LEGANZA RESERVA 1996 Tempranilla from La Mancha that was so smooth it was amazing at $30! An aged Bordeaux of the same price range would not be able to compete.

Our first tapas were cold ceviche and we chose two: DE LA CASA which was a shrimp, squid, fish & scallop combo that could not compare in taste, size or price with the one we had in Guatemala last week, but the CEVICHE A LA RUSE was a plate of three superb plump oysters with an onion cilantro relish topped with caviar and a shot of Ice cold Russian vodka on the side!

BOQUERONES were top quality freshly marinated anchovies in a cilantro relish and the ESPINACAS was out of this world sauteed spinach with FIGS, HONEY & GARLIC!

ALCACHOFAS RELLENAS were artichoke bottoms filled with HAM & SHRIMP and served in a tasty SHERRY CREAM SAUCE that we wanted to mop up. Speaking of mopping up, Sam opted to do this with his meatball sauce and a chunk of bread, a major development in food eating skills in my book (mopping that is!).

CROQUETAS de BACALAO were super rich creamy cod croquettes with BECHAMEL both inside and to dip as well....way too rich, but YUM YUM. Our fab server Jessica (she recommended the 2nd wine) said we must try the PIQUILLOS RELLENOS-Roasted Red Peppers with Ground Veal and Chorizo in a Light Sherry Sauce that was another big winner. The one semi-dud on the menu was the PULPO ALA GALLEGA which was an herb marinated octopus served on potato on bread with paprika. Two of the pieces were quite chewy and did not impress, even though the preparation was excellent.

Sam opted for vanilla ice cream with berries for dessert and ended up eating just the berries because he was so full. We shared two other standard: FLAN LORENA, a very firm and fine version of the traditional dish and PUDIN DE PAIN which was excellent and made with dried fruit and Spanish Sherry.

We parted both the restaurant and our friends on a sad note, hoping that we will see Phyllis & Michael again soon, and hopefully find more wonderful dining spots like Ceviche again as well.

Saturday, December 22, 2007

Livingston, Guatemala's HAPPY FISH will make you happy

The other day as we cruised the Caribbean coast of Central America we returned to Guatemala with Samuel the first time since he had come home 4 years ago.

It was an odd experience pulling into Santo Tomas de Castillo and Will telling Sam what a beautiful country it was as he replied, "Thank you, Daddy."

Our day tour was a long an fulfilling boat trip on the Rio Dulce and we ended up in the town of LIVINGSTON where there are many wonderful simple local dining options. We headed for the HAPPY FISH as it was owned by the tour company that provided our arrangements.

While Samuel kept things simple with a SPAGHETTI with Salsa Rojo (aka tomato) we started with one of the best CEVICHES ever loaded with tomato and every fish from the area (shrimp, scallop, fish, conch, etc).

The fruit smoothies were a treat--mine was papaya, Daddy had a mango and Sam opted for the fizzy lemonade.

The main course was TAPADO a local Garifuna soup well bouillabaisse with coconut and whole crabs an entire Palometto Fish, shrimp and more.

We were so full after this $10 bowl of magnificence that we just skipped dessert (well, Sam had icecream) and went shopping.

Friday, December 14, 2007

NY's VONG is very much worth the visit

Friday night I headed over to the East Side for an early dinner at VONG (200 E 54th St at 3rd Ave) the Asian home of the world famous Jean-Georges V. which has managed to ear itself one Michelin star in the newest incarnation the NY Michelin Red Guide. We have indeed avoided Jean-George's establishments as years ago we had an awful runin with the staff at his #1 Manhattan spot and vowed not to return.

I am glad I gave VONG a chance as the staff was beyond superb, indeed PERFECT. The food was pretty good as well.

The wooden floors, bright red chairs and cozy banquettes are splattered with tons of Asian influenced art and hangings along with fans on vertical poles that are the same as ceiling fans, but on the floor. The tables are dark slate and have small blond woven mats with legant stainless and chopsticks. A wet towel (not hot) is brought as soon as you are seated; thick crispy sesame rice crackers follow with an irresistible crunchy spicy peanut sauce.

The menu is not too big and I was very happy for the selection of five appetizers (which rings in at $24 per person!!, but is REALLY worth it):
CRAB SPRING ROLL is crunchy and filled with excellent ingredients and served with a yummy tamarind dipping sauce.
PRAWN SATAY belies its name as these are yummy medium size shrimp on a skewer yet breaded unlike the traditional satay and then served a spicy red chili dipping sauce.
RAW TUNA ROLL is wrapped with Avocado & Vegetable in a Rice Paper and served with the traditional Asian fish (nampla) sauce.
LOBSTER & DAIKON ROLL is another yummy treat with a light ROSEMARY GINGER DIP
The CRUNCHY CRESS Salad is topped with a large portion of SPICED QUAIL.

It was hard to pick a favorite as they were all super tasty and I am glad I did not pick just one appetizer, as this was perfect. A glass of DOMAINE TRIENNES Saint Fleur 2006 Viognier from Nans-les-Pins was perfect with all the sauces and spices, although a Pinot Blanc or Riesling would work equally well.

I switched to red and a tasty 2005 BARREL 27 SYRAH from the California Central Coast. I never needed to ask for anything and the entire very handsome staff was simply excellent.

For an entree I chose the RABBIT CURRY with Giant BRAISED CARROT and GALANGAL (Ginger) that was recommended by my server; he suggested well. It was three huge pieces of rabbit in a medium weight curry with Jasmine Rice on the side. The loin was prepared breaded on a skewer like the prawn satay appetizer. The meat was a but dry on the loin, but once dipped in the curry was perfect. I loved it all.

Dessert was less successful as I ordered a CINNAMON ROASTED PEAR with SABLEUSE CAKE which came with Licorice Ice Cream (for which I substituted vanilla). The pear was superb, the sableuse was simply a dry pound cake and I barely touched the ice cream as I was so full. A wonderful mint ice cream bonbon wrapped in chocolate came after this and made me happier.

For Asian food, the prices are high, but the quality and service truly make this worth the expense once every now and then.

Friday, December 07, 2007

PS 7's still pretty stunning

Having loved our visit to PS 7's (777 I St, NW) earlier this summer, we felt a return for heavier fare in the wintertime was due. Friday night, four of us headed over in the cold rain and were as pleased as we were before. Chef Peter Smith is doing an outstanding job, and while he has lost his pastry chef Naomi Gallagher(now at the Four Seasons Hotel in Austin, Texas), many of her dishes still remain (although I did sorely miss the amazing biscuits!).

The wines are still wonderfully eclectic and we started with a 2006 ULACIA HONDARRUBI Txakolina Basque wine from Spain that has a limey effervescence and is reminiscent of a sauvignon blanc. It made a very nice aperitif, and we moved on to a bigger and creamier FAR NIENTE 20005 Chardonnay and then with our entrees another eclectic wine: 2005 COTURRI "Albarello" from Sonoma which is 60% Zinfandel and also has Petite Sirah, Carignane, Barbera and Alicante-Bousquet--how's that for off-the-wall? It was a medium bodied wine and we really wanted more by the time we had our meat, so we returned to the wonderful 2003 SARAH's VINYARD Zinfandel from Gilroy, California that has a huge cherry nose and taste and is wonderfully warm and intense in the mouth.

While the wine is good, the food is superb and our amuse was a MAYTAG BLUE Cheese FONDANT with TOMATO CONFITURE. The blue is medium level intensity and the amuse did its assigned job of tantalizing the palate for more. Our wonderful server Nick guided us in choices and we opted to share a portion of the TUNA SLIDER's to start which was another brilliant amuse and amusing idea. The very SPICY TUNA (a Sararcha Aoili is the secret spicy ingredient)TARTARE is on Naomi's Parker House mini rolls with cilantro and cucumber salad on the side with a sesame, tuna, cilantro vinaigrette--it's a great taste option for 2 or
4 to share.

Will returned to the BABY BEET MOSAIC and I wandered to a new salad called CARPACCIO of ROYAL TRUMPET MUSHROOMS which had Tempura Battered and Fried HARICOTS VERTS drizzled with LOBSTER AIOLI, Frisee and Candied Shallots. It was a wonderful, exciting and different salad (not really a salad at all!) and a big hit with the whole table, as it was large enough for everyone to taste.

The PETITE HOME MADE HOT DOGS are really thick juicy wieners on buns with condiments of ketchup, mustard and relish on the side and a paper cone of thinly julienne fries.

Entrees included a tasty Pan Seared KING SALMON with Sherry Vinaigrette, the same excellent VEAL BREAST with SWEETBREADS that Will had in July which has got to be one of the star dishes here and the PAN ROASTED STRIP LOIN Pave with Wild Mushroom Mac & Cheese Ravioli, Spinach and Cabernet-Mushroom Jus.

My OAT & BROWN BUTTER CRUSTED PORK LOIN was delish and served with super sides of Glazed Apples, Butternut Squash Parisienne & Braised Mustard Greens, all with a Brown-Sugar Rosemary Gastrique. Some though the sweetness too much for the dish, but I liked the crunchy slightly sweet topping that was like pork loin brown betty crumble! Of course, you could always remove the crust if you think it too sweet, but I loved it.

You can't skip dessert at PS 7's, but two of us opted for the cheese which is always a treat: THOMASVILLE TOMME, HUMBOLDT FOG Goat and MONA's (cow & sheep) from VIRGINIA were American treats. Will went for the CHOCOLATE PRALINE BOMBE with Milk Chocolate Mousse, Flourless Chocolate Cake and Wattleseed Ice Cream with Mango Foam (WOW) and I adored my "Meyer Lemon" SIN which included Lemon Yogurt, Candied Meyer Lemon Ouzo Almond Cake, and more...it was a ll so yummy.

After dinner, the treats are just as fun. Chocolate seems to be the theme this winter and there were four each of four types of bonbons:
Mocha Milk Chocolate
Dark Chocolate Cognac
Milk Chocolate Peanut Clusters
and the truly tantalizing WHITE CHOCOLATE PASSION FRUIT

Needless to say, we were full and went home VERY happy.

A small note of kindness goes to Chef Smith, who, upon hearing that we adored the veal breast, wrote down the entire recipe and sent it out for us to take home and try (with a phone number in case of technical assistance!).

still cuckoo about KINKEAD's

As you Phyllis-teens know, I am not much of a lunch person, but this past Friday, a dear friend was in town and the only time we could meet up was at lunch, so we opted to head to Kinkead's where my absence has been known for way too long.

The courteous staff, good service and excellent food make it easy to see that it is Washington's NUMBER# 1 Zagat rated restaurant in the "Most Popular" category.

Our cozy corner table gave us a view of the kitchen as we settled in with a tasty glass of PALLISER ESTATE 2006 Sauvignon Blanc from Martinborough in New Zealand which works great with almost any seafood.

Our truly wonderful server Stephen gave us ample time to schmooze and catch up and brought our appetizer (which we split) of TUNA TARTARE JALISCO which has been a long time standard. The large chunky tuna is superb and tasty with lots of spice, avocado and lime and has radish and jicama in the adjoining small salad. We also enjoyed the always excellent FRIED IPSWICH CLAMS which seemed to be even better this time. The batter seemed a bit lighter and crispier and tastier (has there been a change?) and the clams are moist and tender; and who can refuse the excellent dipping sauce!

More wine and more talk and our entrees arrived and the portions were larger than we expected. The LOBSTER ROLL has a peppery jolt and the meat is firm, fleshy and moist (I just tasted) and my MAINE SEAFOOD CHOWDER was a dream. The "chowder" was actually not the New England style thick soup I had expected, but somewhere between this and a rich bouillabaisse that was just perfect. Loaded with bay scallops, Blue Hill Bay Mussels, Finnan Haddie and moist tasty Stone Crab claws it was an amazing and filling treat.

So filling we could not even ponder thoughts of dessert and made our way out thanking everyone for a super lunch.

Monday, December 03, 2007

sublime Caesar at PRIMEHOUSE David Burke in Chicago

One of the biggest problems I have dining in Chicago are the opera curtain times, which this week are at 630pm since both operas I am seeing are 4 hours (normal curtains are at 730pm for 3-3-1/2 hour operas). Well, you can't really eat at fine dining sports at 430pm, and 11pm isn't much better.

Since I am staying at one of Chicago's newest boutique luxury hotels The James, I was thrilled to return here at 11pm and find the hotel's restaurant open until midnight on Friday and Saturday (I might just have to return again tonight).

Restauranteur David Burke has many spots all over the USA, but PRIMEHOUSE DAVID BURKE was recently rated the best steakhouse in Chicago (no small feat) and offers a varied and exciting menu and wine list that is great for steak or anything. At midnight on my body clock, I was not in the mood for a 20-30 ounce steak, even if it did come from a specially bred organic-siring bull and was aged in-house using Himalayan rock salt (maybe tonight!). I figured a meat dish was in order and asked my server about the KOBE BEEF SASHIMI. She said the carpaccio style dish included about 2 ounces of superb meat, and then recommended the table-side prepared CAESAR SALAD as one of the larger appetizer/salad options.

The wine list is superb and varied and rather than glasses offers small carafes of about a glass and a half. I asked about the Petite Syrah 2005 from TEN MILES in California and she immediately suggested the SIERRA CANTABRIA 2005 Tempranillo from Rioja in Spain instead and proffered two small tasting glasses for me to choose. Natasha was spot on with this suggestion, as the Petite Syrah was nice but not exciting. With temperatures outside near 20, and wind chills much worse, the Tempranillo was warm, full-bodied and a bit racy, simply tantalizing to the tongue.

I sipped and looked around the almost empty quiet room, which I am sure was heaving earlier on, with its low lighting, brown leather tables and chairs and huge roomy booths (they offered me one for six and I opted for the smaller table for four). My KOBE BEEF SASHIMI arrived in round circles gorgeously layered on a huge 6 inch by 3 inch by 2 inch high block of Himalayan Rock Salt and scattered with MUSHROOM CHIPS and a superb TRUFFLE MAYO dip on the side. The meat was about the best carpaccio ever and the chips made for fun, taste and a bit of crunch (think bacon bits made of mushroom). The CEASAR Salad (the opera I see tonight is Julius Caesar!) was professionally prepared in front of me and I chose to have it topped with FRESH MARIANTED WHITE ANCHOVIES that were clearly and deliciously lemon-infused, the salad itself very traditional and just the right dish for just before midnight and bed.

A yummy popover came as well right from the oven with a pat of tasty butter sprinkled with that super Himalayan Rock Salt (I just might have to indulge in the steak tonight, no matter how late it is!).

I was off to bed in my wonderful and luckily quiet room and today am looking forward to more fun dining and opera in the snow/sleet and ice that is expected soon!

Saturday, December 01, 2007

Chicago cuisine-SHAW's super seafood and late night at QUARTINO

Lunch was late and at SHAW's OYSTER BAY which has been around since forever. I was in an OYSTER MOOD and went for the selection of six with a glass of SALNEVAL ALBARINO from Rias Baixas 2006 Spain which was crisp and fruity and fine for oysters even though it was not on the "Oyster Friendly wine selection list!"

FISHERS ISLAND came from Block Island Sound, NY
JUDD COVE from Orcas Island, Washington is a deep shelled plump rich oyster and is now on my list of faves
COTUIT from the same named bay in Mass
MILL POINT from PrinceEdward Island
QUILCENE from Quilcene Bay in Washington is always a treat
and the DEEP BAY FLAT is a huge shell with plump briny oyster from Deep Bay, BC that is also a new treat

My fish choice was the PARMESAN CRUSTED GEORGE'S BANK HADDOCK with Sauteed Spinach Capers & Lemon Butter which was a very nice dish, well prepared and tasty, but doesn't come close to the preparation and flavor in Bob Kinkead's crusted creations. The SAUTEED FLORIDA RED GROUP with Pumpkin Seed Crust was a bit more interesting, and I never met a grouper I didn't like.

My second wine was a tasty almost oak free McWILLIAMS SE Australia 2005 Chardonnay. It was a yummy meal and then time for a nap before the opera.

The opera ended after 11pm and sadly my steak place in the hotel was closed when I got back, so I headed around the corner to QUARTINO (www.quartinochicago.com) where the wines are poured by the 1/4 (hence the name), 1/2 or full liter with many wonderful selections. I opted for the 1/4 of house VALPOLICELLA, a wonderful wine with the RAVIOLI stuffed with pork in MUSHROOM SAUCE and crunchy SPECK. My appetizer arrived after the ravioli (that was weird) but it was fine as I had ordered a $2 VEAL MEATBALL SLIDER which is a small mini-Italian roll with one yummy veal meatball on it (think three-four bite Italian meatball sub!). On the side was a spicy pickled giardiniere of fennel, peppers, cauliflower and other veggies.

Still hungry I moved to the cheese and meat selections which one can make a meal of as well. I chose the LONZINO (each selection is $4 and is about 2 ounces) which is an air dried pork loin that would have benefited from better cutting rather than coming out as shredded as it did. On the side is more giardiniere, a small sweet & sour cucumber salad and a yummy candied fried mostarda for the meat.

I also chose the small dish of PECORINO TOSCANO (also $4 and 5 huge chunks) which is a tasty nutty one and is served with fruit bread and 3 sides as well: Grape salad, fennel salad (which I didn't like--surprise) and a yummy apricot rosemary puree which worked well with the cheese.

I gathered up my final two chunks of cheese which I am munching as I write this and head to bed....

Good night Chicago.

Thursday, November 29, 2007

looking to LAFAYETTE at the HAY ADAMS

Last night I was invited to a private supper at the HAY ADAMS Hotel here in DC, a notable and beautiful landmark where the Chef de Cuisine prepared a quite amazing menu. The new owners of the hotel have upgraded the wine cellar and are doing quite a spectacular job as can be seen from the delicious menu below:

CREME of CAULIFLOWER CURRY FLOREST served with Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rose Brut, N/V, France which was more of an amuse but totally creamy and tasty getting us really excited for what was to come...

LOBSTER, SCALLOP, FENNEL & WHITE TOMATO MOUSSE TERRINE Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Artisan Series 2004, AustraliaThe wine was a creamy huge chard and went wonderfully with the mousseline like terrine which was almost misty in its texture akin to a cloud. Chunks of Lobster were on the plate as well and it was a beautiful presentation to look at to boot.

SAUTEED ROASTED VENISON MEDALLIONS with Fresh CHANTERELLES, Braised RED CABBAGE, SWEET POTATO Mousse Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2004 Chile.

This was a huge and satisfying red for a winter's night and a wine I will look for in the future as it is drinking wonderfully now, but will also last for years. It was perfect with the ensuing cheese course as well. The venison was so light, I thought it was VEAL Medallions at first and the sauce was not too heavy but definitely delightful. The sides were spectacular giving a whole new meaning to hotel food!

BOONE BOUCHE Vermont ash ripened GOAT CHEESE was served with OREGONZOLA a medium intensity gorgonzola from ROGUE CREAMERY in OREGON (hence the name) which I actually adored.

WHITE CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING with Cranberry Compote and Soft Whipped Cream was a small disc of some of the best bread pudding around, and I ate every bite just leaving the cream!

YUM YUM and cheers to Chef Ville Uusimaki (who is incidentally from Finland).

Monday, November 19, 2007

more praise for PEKING GOURMET INN (Falls Church, VA)

Last April we joined our dear friends Mel & Juan at their traditional family gathering spot for special occasions, PEKING GOURMET INN (www.pekinggourmet.com) on Leesburg Pike in Falls Church, VA. Last night we joined them again for an even more fabulous Chinese dining experience, even better than last time. We did order a number of the same dishes, but also tried some new ones.

The FRIED CHINESE LEEK DUMPLINGS are not to be missed and you can choose to dip them in soy sauce or a soy/vinegar combo, but best is the creamy sweet garlic paste that just seems to be the best condiment around.

The SZECHUAN CABBAGE is simple and cold and not too spicy, so I added some of the marinated Chinese chili peppers, which were pretty mild as well this time around--a nice combination in the end. Once can not skip the presentation of the PEKING DUCK which is such a treat here, and our servers did it great justice! The Chinese scallions are grown on the owner's own farm in Purcelville, VA. The duck is as tender as can be and the skin is crispy and luscious. Wrap this up in the pancake with a dab of plum sauce and you are in heaven. Our other entrees were WALNUT CHICKEN which is prepared with battered chicken breast pieces in a tangy glaze (somewhat akin to sweet & sour) and served with yummy candied walnuts. Again the menu indicates this is spicy, but I thought not at all.

The SINGAPORE RICE NOODLES are an excellent choice for a bit of spice and are delicate rice noodles in a very light curry sauce, almost a film rather than a sauce.

SZECHUAN BEEF comes looking like branches of shredded beef and has that wonderful crunchy texture and a good amount of spice while the BLACK PEPPER BEEF is huge chunks of beef in a slightly spicy peppery sauce and coating.

The top dish here besides the duck will always be the JEO-YEN SHRIMP which one of us said was "like sex in my mouth." They are the best battered shrimp anywhere and come with that superb light coconut flavor.

Another seasonal treat is the GARLIC SPROUTS also from the Purcellville farm and we chose them STIR FRIED with PORK. While you can get them with shrimp or chicken, I think their strength really calls for the pork to equalize the intensity of the tasty sprout.

We needed to skip dessert, but our hosts brought a magnificent GERMAN CHOCOLATE CAKE procured from Desserts by Gerard in Oxon Hill, which we all devoured despite being so full. Sam gets to have a taste tonight! The wines were superb as well with a FOLEY 2005 SANTA RITA HILLS Pinot Noir and a 2004 SIMI Russian River Chardonnay going so well with everything.

But, boy do I need a rest before Thanksgiving. HAVE A WONDERFUL HOLIDAY!

Thursday, November 15, 2007

ramble into RUMBEROS in DC for tasty tapas and more

A new neighborhood is dawning and improving daily in Adam's Morgan/Mt.Pleasant in the Tivoli Theater corridor on 14th Street, NW and can be witnessed by the onslaught of several new upscale dining spots amongst the mid-level and low-level chains as well as the wonderful Central American spots.

RUMBEROS at 3345 14th St, NW (www.rumberos-dc.com) is actually in the Tivoli complex and sports some of the huge pillared columns from the original theater, red walls with lots of modern Latino art (for sale at reasonable prices) and suffers only a bit from a lack of great service. Once we told our pleasant server Veronica that we needed to be at the theater at 730pm, there were no problems; we just worried a bit, and then all the food came and was wonderful.

The wines are good and reasonable too. We started with a DON ARIANO 2004 Tannat-Syrah blend from Canelones in Uruguay. I joked with Veronica, asking if 2004 was a good year in Uruguay, and wouldn't you know she was Uruguayan and insisted on trying to find out! OUr second wine was even better, A TERRA NOBLE Gran Riserva CARMENERE 2005 from the Maule Valley in Chile. These are slightly tannic full bodied warm wines, just great as the cold sets in right now in DC and excellent with the full falvors of the food as well.

The four of us could not decide what to have so we boiled it down to 5 tapas selections and 2 entrees to share which was just perfect, and with the 2 bottles of wine the bill came to only $150 without tax and tip; not bad for a filling mail minus dessert.

Our tapas choices were: CAMARONES CARIBENOS al RON which were more lemony than rum tasting shrimp, but the rich buttery sauce was yummy to mop up with bread. YUCA FRITA came with a bland mojo sauce and when we asked for some aoili or such to beef it up, a mediocre chimichurri sauce arrived, which was better, could not touch that of the sauce at Guantanamera in NYC on its super hangar steak with chimichurri! This is the only dish I would avoid, while the yuca was wonderful, it really needs something better to dip in for moisture.

CALAMARES al TEQUILA were tender sauteed squid in Spanish paprika and a tasty Sherry-Vinegar sauce, also great for mopping up. I loved the slight spice in the paprika and this portion was also huge with 5 pieces each about 4 inches long and scored into ringlets.

I have always adored mofongo since visiting Puerto Rico and here is it served as a tapas MOFONGO con MARISCOS and prepared in a wooden cyclinder with the plantains battered onto the side of the wood.

Normally the tomato-sauced mixture of meat or seafood is inside this, but here it is served on the side with Garlic, Shrimp & Scallops and you can simply spoon it over the plantains after you scoop a bit out of the cylinder, or fill it up yourself if you are not sharing! It was very tasty and I would love to see several versions (perhaps lobster and pork or chicken) as an entree.

The big star tapas winner was the TORREJITA de ESPINACA which was simply akin to a spinach latke with shallots, garlic and Guayanes cheese oozing in its middle. Think cheesy cream spinach breaded and fried like a latke (but these were just sauteed or baked, cutting the fat and) giving tons of flavor!

Our two entree choices were the ROPA VIEJA served of course with Rice & Beans (as everything is) and it was a tasty one as well, but again, not as excellent as that I just had recently in Guantanamera in NYC. The RED SNAPPER with Seafood Sauce was a treat with the sauce actually having a light tomato base with mussels, shrimp and calamari as well. The fish was excellent, and I would like to try other fish on a later visit, because I know we will return to Rumberos!

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Super service and surprises at SPEZIE

Last night we were invited to SPEZIE (1736 L St, NW - www.spezie.com) where we discovered an old friend who had disappeared from the restaurant scene in DC for a short while. Award winning Chef CESARE LANFRANCONI who ran the kitchen at Tosca for so many years, is now in charge at this warm charming little spot, that we did not even know existed, and he is doing miracles in their kitchen.

Our set menu was no less than a revelation and was accompanied by superb wines: LA CALA Vermentino di Sardegna was a crisp and fruity white that was perfect with the ROASTED MAINE SCALLOPS with RED BEET, Cured Lemon Salad and Creamy Sea Urchin Sauce. I switched to the delicious red, a wine I always enjoy with lighter meats and pastas: MICHELE CHIARLO Barbera d'Asti "Le Orme" and it, too, was perfect with the two pastas served simultaneously: HOMEMADE RAVIOLI Stuffed with ROASTED PUMPKIN & AMARETTO COOKIES with Fresh SAGE & PARMESAN SAUCE & HOMEMADE PAPPARDELLE with WILD BOARD & CHANTERELLE RAGU. These are two of my favorite types of pasta and sauces as well, and all we could do was rave, rave, rave!

The ROASTED VEAL FILET with BATTUTO SPINACH and Roasted Potatoes, Porcini Mushroom Sauce was delectable and by this time I think we all agreed, the meal was sheer perfection, as was the superb staff and service.

Dessert was a DOUBLE CHOCOLATE & HAZELNUT MOUSSE Cake with Seasonal Berries & Vanilla Sauce which I ate evry single bit of, and most folks know I tend NOT to finish desserts these days; enough said!

We look forward to returning to SPEZIE and seeing our old pal Cesare in the kitchen again many more times; it was great to find him doing so well!

Thursday, October 25, 2007

always lovin' LA MICHE

Last night we returned to LA MICHE (www.lamiche.com) in Bethesda after a way too long absence and still find the traditional French cuisine to be even better. We started the evening with Cava Sparkling (forgot the brand) and went right to red wine with a BOURGOGNE Hautes Cotes de Nuits Pinot Noir from Henri & Gilles Remoriquet in Nuit Saint Georges which was light bodied, but just right on a starting to get chilly fall evening.

Everyone had the same appetizer which was a fabulous combination plate consisting of: Green Lip Mussel and Crab Beignets (fritter) with caviar tartar sauce and Quail with Goji Berries in red wine served over thin slices of Yellow & Green Zucchini.

There were so many flavors and I opted to start with the seafood fritter and move to the quail as the sauce was richer and the berries intense. They both went well with the wine and we were all quite happy.

The entrees were varied and went from SALMON IMPERIAL to a superb ALASKAN HALIBUT with ARTICHOKE, CRAB & CAPER Lemon Butter Sauce to Frenched RACK of LAMB with Ratatouille, French Beans & Potatoes. I opted for the decadent VEAL RIB CHOP with OYSTER CREAM SAUCE which came with Roasted Potatoes and perfectly cooked French Green Beans. The meat was tender and tasty, but it was the sauce that was so novel and wonderful. There were a half dozen oysters or more in the rich sauce itself to boot!

With dinner a SANCERRE "La Crele" 2005 from Thomas & Fils was available for the fish folk, while us meat eaters went for the wonderful and bigger COTES du RHONE VILLAGES 2004 Rasteau from Tardieu-Laurent.

Desserts were varied as well and most gobbled up the CHOCOLATE GANACHE CAKE or a Chocolate ECLAIR, while I indulged in a superb light GRAND MARNIER SOUFFLE. There were also two dessert wines to satisfy the wide variety of desserts. A lighter, yet sweet DOMAINE de la MALETIE 2002 MONTBAZILLAC, while many of us preferred the sweeter heavier OLIVARES 2003 DULCE MONASTRELL.

After a round of port we all headed home sure that we won't keep away from La Miche as long next time! I'm hoping to attend their next wine dinner which is scheduled for December 5.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

NATSUMI is neat in NYC

I first went to NATSUMI (www.natsuminyc.com) near Times Square at 226 West 50th Street back in the spring right when it opened and was very impressed with the "Italian" infused Asian cuisine. I returned last night with a client and five others and we had a smashingly fabulous time.

While munching the wonderful edamame I tried two different sakes and preferred the house brand BIZEN MABOROSHI Junmai Gingo ($11/glass) which is sooo smooth and elegant, and the floral and less smooth ONIKOROSHI WAKATAKE was nice as well but not as satiusfying for my palate.

As the guests arrived I ordered a BUTTERFLY GREEN TEA RAVIOLI Appetizer which was stuffed wtih LOBSTER & SHITAKE in a Lobster Biqsue Sauce. It was yummy, but not easy to get into the chopsticks! I also tasted the excellent FRIED CALAMARI that was accompanied by a super light dipping sauce (soy based with spice). The dumplings came in so many forms I know not what I had, but they were all superb. A house NATSUMI Veronese White from Fruili was a refreshing choce of wine for these dishes as well.

The entrees were very varied around the table and I thought the least exciting was the Seafood Tempura Platter as the sauce was not that great. BUT, my NATSUMI ROLL was spectacular. Made from TUNA, Spicy Tuna, Avocado, Green APPLE for a bite, BASIL and topped with Gold Leaf for beauty. The server suggested I use the soy sauce combined with the house aged BALSAMIC rather than soy alone or with wasabi. It was brilliant. Everything at the table got raves from our group as I departed for the airport, alas with no dessert, but remembering the FRIED CHEESECAKE I had earlier this year and knowing I will be back soon!

Saturday, October 20, 2007

stil going to GUANTANAMERA in NYCity

I was happy to find a new theater district place at Gelsi on Friday, but yesterday and today I am returning to old favorites. Last night it was GUANTANAMERA (which will open a new sister restaurant soon in Spanish Harlem on the very upper east side) and I was as pleased as I always am.

Located in a narrow spot on the west side of 8th Avenue between 55th and 56th Streets, you could easily miss this spot, but once inside, you know you are in a Cuban dining spot, as the lights are low, the music is beating and everyone is having a good time. On a Saturday this starts with lunch, continues throw post-matinee and pre-evening theater and goes way into the night once the live band starts later in the evening!

My friend and I enjoyed a yummy pitcher of the RED SANGRIA while he had a bowl of CHICKEN SOUP laden with chunks of chicken, vegetables and AVOCADO. My ENSALATA la PALMA REAL is still a treat with field greens, piles of avocado and artichoke hearts and shaved parmesan. At $9.00 it is one of the best salad deals in NY City.

For entrees we had the VEGETARIAN PAELLA which was another huge dish laden with all kinds of fresh sauteed veggies and my ROPA VIEJA (the first time having it here) was beautifully served in a small basket made from crisp plantains, but filled to overflowing (there had to be almost a 1/2 pound of hangar steak), shredded and sauteed with great seasonings and not overdone at all. The rice was perfect and I smothered it with the bowl of BLACK BEANS that comes on the side of most dishes here, I often order the great steak with chimichurri sauce and now I find that both of these beef dishes (though so dissimilar) are great treats!

The cappunccino was great and we could not eat a bite more before I headed to see a wonderful revival of the comedy The Ritz with a super cast nearby!

Friday, October 19, 2007

between Hells' Kitchen & Chelsea there's OSTERIA GELSI

Last night before I took in the new Broadway musical Young Frankenstein, I wandered several blocks south and west of the theater district to OSTERIA GELSI at 507 9th Ave (at 38th Street; www.GelsiNYC.com) which features the cuisine of the Puglia region. There were many choices on the menu, but I could not resist the specials my server mentioned.

The menu did NOT indicate that 1/2 portions of pasta were available, so I asked--and they were ( a shame they don't advertise this). The wine list also only lists bottles and the 8 or 9 wines that are available by the glass are reeled off by varietal (Pinot Grigio, Chard, etc) so that you have no clue as to their quality and price. Another BIG failure. I ordered a glass of a Sicilian Chardonnay which I believe was called Catarata, but I haven't a clue, and sadly could'nt glean any more information, although it was nice. A tiny amuse of tomato bruschetta came and then I had the PUMPKIN GNOCCHI that were a revelation. Prepared in a butter sauce with a TOMATO Confit, Mushrooms, teensy weensy fried onions and fried sage leaves that were superb, it was a masterful combination and quite filling at the 1.2 size for $10.00.

The TUNA Special followed cooked in a Light Tomato/White Wine Sauce with roasted Whole Garlic Cloves, Capers, Olives, Caperberries and magnificently assembled on top of Roasted Potatoes & Sauteed Green Beans. Sadly, by the time the place was filling up and what had started as two ladies at the bar and had grown to seven ladies at the bar, became a table of seven very loud ladies next to me.

I was too full for dessert, but ordered coffee and got four wonderful hazelnut biscotti with it that was just perfect. They were not hard (I hate them that way), but slightly chewy and so yummy when dipped in the coffee.

I decided the ladies weren't that bad, paid and left quite full, but not overwhelmed too much to hate the show (which was funny and will probably be a big hit!).

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Puerto Rican report from Phyllis' husband in Chicago

Last week Sam and I made our bi-annual trip up to the Windy City to visit friends, Joe and Victor and their four year old Joel. On Saturday afternoon we decided to go look for a nice place to eat for lunch with the boys. At our first stop called "Feed" we were told that even though it was noon we were not able to order lunch for another half an hour. Only breakfast was being served at that time. We decided that we were not in the mood for pancakes and hash so we left and made our way back to the car. After about a ten minute drive we stopped in an area that is primarily Puerto Rican. There were HUGE wrought iron Puerto Rican flags over the roadways. After a little walking around we walked into this small very unpretentious little cafe/diner. My friend Joe and I were the only non Latino folks there. The place was called LATIN AMERICAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE (2743 W Division St, Chicago, IL 60622. 1-773-235-7290). They have a web site (www.latinamericanrestaurantchicago.com), but it is down right now.

This place was so mismatched it was adorable. There were a number of different types of chairs and a large selection of mismatched plates to use at a buffet table. In the back of the place there were two big computer game machines, which Sam and Joel were fascinated with. Both of them had large half naked women on them (could this be what the boys found fascinating?). Anyway, we spotted that they had a buffet which looked very nice so we decided to partake. On the buffet were the following,

Yellow Rice and Gandules Beans
Brown Rice and Calamari
Plain White Rice
Herb Baked Chicken
Red Beans with Pumpkin Pieces
Chicken Noodle Soup
Macaroni with Chicken
Fried Plantains
Roasted Pulled Pork
Puerto Rican Tamales
Goat Stew
Green Salad

Everything was freshly cooked and it seemed to be removed and replaced on a regular basis. ALL of the meat was juicy and tasty. Sam particularly liked the fried plantains. My personal favorite was the pulled pork which was so flavorful it erupted in your mouth. I had never had Gandules beans before which were yummy in the yellow rice (not one single dried out grain). The Puerto Rican Tamales were like little silver foil wrapped gifts from the gods. The wonderful aroma oozed out as we opened them up and they tasted just as good as they smelled.

Afterwards (which I guess was part of the deal we were handed a plate with three coconut puddings with maraschino cherries on top. I am not usually a pudding type of guy, but these were something else. Creamy with a coconut taste that just melted in your mouth. We gave the boys the maraschino cherries as a bit of extra dessert. Sorry we did not partake in wines and such, as it just wasn't that type of place; the diet coke was lovely. I was so impressed with the food at this place that I just had to meet the chef. Out came this sweet and quiet, young Puerto Rican lady who proudly told me what all of the different dishes were in her broken English (shame on me for not learning Spanish at this point). I told her how thrilled we were and that I was going to let everyone know on an e-mail list just how wonderful her food was. She smiled and said "gracias, senor" and returned to the kitchen. I hope that she didn't think I was a bit of a whacko as I do get quite excited when I have great food.

When our bill arrived we were shocked to see that the buffet was ONLY $5.99 per adult and $3.99 per child. This is for UNLIMITED food. WHAT A DEAL!!!! If any of you are ever in Chicago on a weekend and fancy a real treat for a great price, check out Latin American Restaurant & Lounge. This is Phyllis's husband handing you back to Phyllis.

Sunday, October 14, 2007

you gotta love LIBERTY TAVERN (Arlington, VA)

Sunday night we headed out to dinner with Samuel, his friend Joshua, and Joshua's daddies for a wonderful and filling evening at the new LIBERTY TAVERN in Clarendon (www.thelibertytavern.com) which we will definitely return to again very soon.

The menu from Chef Liam LaCivita offers a mix of Italian, New England (his roots) and more, and it is very hard to decide WHAT to have:pizza, pasta, fish, meat or other! We started with a bottle of KURT ANGERER "KIES" Gruner Veltliner 2005 from Austria full of grapefruit and very refreshing. The wine list is pretty decent and has many good selections in the $30-50 range. We later changed to a FEDUO MACCARI "Re Noto" NERO d'AVOLA 2005 from Sicily which was a medium bodied red with cherry jam overtones. Our final and best wine was a KILIKANOON "Killerman's Ridge" Shiraz 2004 from Clare Valley which the menu described as blackberry with charcoal and very voluptuous, and while we agreed, there was also a strong tobacco essence.

Samuel wolfed down his plain pizza, an amazing $8 or $9 deal with eight HUGE slices (1/2 went home for eating later in the week!). Joshua liked the MAC & CHEESE which came with several side options and he chose fresh fruit which consisted of blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, apple and more--quite impressive for a kid's menu! The bread is made in house and is yummy, especially the brioche style
rolls.

The portions are LARGE from the monstrous FRITTO MISTO appetizer of calamari, clam strips, haddock and fennel all nicely fried with a very rich thick creamy aioli, but just too much. The salads are gorgeous and one of us tried the APPLE ENDIVE which is made with impressive Great Hill Blue Cheese, spicy pecans, tarragon buttermilk dressing and sauteed bacon bits.

Pastas are good too (but they were out of the gnocchi) with BAKED GARGANELLI coming in a smoked tomato cream sauce with pancetta and bufala ricotta "Bella Vitano."

Pizzas are a big hit here and we all loved the AUTUMN PIZZA of wild mushroom, potato, pancetta, rosemary and robiola cheese as well as the ADAM's LINGUICA with crushed tomato, mozzarella, oregano and the now almost famous housemade Linguica sausage (so who is Adam?).

I opted for the "Sunday Dinner" which is a three course fixed price special for an amazing $25 that changes weekly.This week it featured a small (the only small thing on the menu, I think) appetizer of beautifully sauteed MUSSELS with SHALLOTS, WHITE WINE & CHILES.

Luckily it was not too large, because the entree was a monstrous dish entitled NEW ENGLAND "BOLLITO MISTO" which needed more explanation on the menu. It will go on the fall menu this week, we later learned from Chef Liam, and is a dish NOT TO MISS. The fajita style hot plate comes with VEAL CHEEK, VEAL BREAST, COTTOCCHINO (sp?) Sausage and Hangar Steak as well as nice autumn vegetables: Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes.

It is somewhat like a stew, but with a thicker and lesser amount of sauce. The dish was supposed to come with Salsa Verde and Apple Mostarda for dipping a la Bollito Misto style, but somehow it got left behind. It didn't really matter as the meat was so tasty it needed NOTHING. I could not finish the dish and look forward to the leftovers tonight with the sauces which they gave me to take home!

The "Sunday Dinner" came with a gorgeous dessert from taste to presentation of HONEY & VANILLA PANNA COTTA with Caramelized Figs. The two timbales of custard were at opposite ends of a long narrow dish joined by a bridge atop them of simple thin baked pastry like a long cookie. It was all superb and so amazing for only $25 TOTAL!

The boys spotted the RED VELVET Cake earlier at the next table and we gave in allowing them each to have a bite while we munched on the rest/ It is a devil's food cake with Cream Cheese and Meringue Frosting, definitely for cake-aholics.

One of the funnier events of the evening was when I was telling the story of Samuel's night out the week before and how he got the waiter's attention when we wanted ground pepper by yelling, "EXCUSE ME." Well, in my repetition of the story, the maitre d' spotted me and ran over to see what I needed as I waved my hand in the air calling, "EXCUSE ME!" We laughed hysterically as we told the story to him! At least Liberty Tavern has jovial, helpful and attentive service worth going back for!

Tuesday, October 09, 2007

finally FISH & CHIPS that can't be beat at EAMONN's

Earlier this year, Cathal Armstong, his wife Meshelle and their brilliant team from Restaurant Eve (he is DC winner for Chef of the Year) opened another venue and now have a total of four in Alexandria. EAMONN's, a DUBLIN CHIPPER is located at 728 King Street (just a block off Washington - www.eamonnsdublinchipper.com) and is aptly named for their son. This is NOT your average fast food place, and we were thrilled to finally make it there last night to celebrate Will's birthday (who is at heart a true fish & chips lover from the north of England, where some argue it all started).

There are several wooden tables and benches and an order counter where each order is freshly prepared and fried. Last night, Michael was in charge and he did a fine job (as did the kitchen staff) taking our group's large and confusing order. We had almost everything on the menu and it is a varied one at that from Fried Prawns to Fried Chicken Nuggets (move over McDonald's) which are huge chunks of juicy meat battered and fried to perfection. There are fried burgers too! But one comes here for the traditional FRIED COD (the eatery's motto, emblazoned on the door is "thanks be to cod" which can be ordered in two sizes (get the large) and then smothered with either vinegar or a number of dipping options, which are great on the huge tasty FRENCH FRIES that are simply to die for.

There was a special fish last night and I went for the fresh DEEP FRIED GROUPER which was moist and excellent and very flavorful. While our Brit in residence preferred the simple malt vinegar, I moved from bite to bite with varied sauces as well as the vinegar. There was traditional TARTAR, HOT CHILI (with cilantro and lime), FRONCH (or French Dijon Mustard with mayo), CHESAPEAKE (Mayo and Old Bay Seasoning), a fabulous CURRY sauce which is slightly spicy and slightly sweet and totally reminiscent of those Indian spots in the UK we have visited. It was the two sauces named for women(and I know not why) that grabbed my attention: MARIE ROSE which is ketchup (hence the rose, I guess), mayo, lemon and tabasco for a slight spiciness and the KITTY O'SHEA made from mayo with olives and sundried tomatoes. Imagine dipping each fry in a different one of these and it's like a multi-course tasting menu!

There are exciting and traditional side dishes as well: Chunky COLESLAW is vinegar based and refreshing, the BAKED BEANS are actually imported from Ireland, and also reminiscent of those we have had in the UK. You see, even Heinz Baked Beans taste different in the UK as the ingredients vary over there! These are all very traditional, unsweetened and tasty beans that one seems to find so rarely here in the USA anymore. Finally, the most exciting side to find here in the US is MUSHY PEAS, which is exactly what is sounds like, but tastes a million times better and just doesn't seem to be easily replicated this side of the pond.

There are, of course, beers and two wines available and our beer drinkers seemed happy while the rest of us drank ken Forrester Chenin Blanc from South Africa (an excellent choice with the fried food). There is also a Pinot Noir if you are in a red mood. Non-alcoholic drinkers will find many options including the oh-so-rare Ribena blackcurrant juice.

While we were lucky enough to get a small miniature PINK BIRTHDAY CAKE sent over by our friends at Eve (it is a standard on the menu at Eve), we were all able to divvy it up so everyone got a bite. Speaking of dessert, should you still be hungry, there are a variety of candies available, but you really must go for the FRIED MARS BAR, a delicacy that will guarantee to boost your cholesterol and blood pressure to unseen amounts, but leave you truly in fried chocolate heaven. You can opt between the The FRIED SNICKERS BAR which is saltier from the peanuts, the FRIED MARS BAR or even a FRIED MILKY WAY; all are superb (be careful not to burn your mouth!).

As we left, we were all in agreement, but Will furthered the motion that EAMONN's is the best fish & chips this side of the pond!

Sunday, October 07, 2007

new, but not great at NICOLA's (downtown DC)

The Embassy Suites Hotel located at 1250 22nd Street, NW has always had an Italian bistro or restaurant (previously Panevino) which has never gathered much attention. We recently heard that it has been replaced with TRATTORIA NICOLA'S (www.nicolasdc.com) which actually has its entrance on 23rd Street (between M & N Streets). The decor has been beefed up and is most cozy and comfortable with several different levels including a bar with three tv's. (the happy hour and appetizer 1/2 price specials are ONLY at the bar!).

We got a nice booth with Samuel (he is easier to control in a booth) and he started drinking his Shirley Temple and began to bounce off the walls because of the sugar! We ordered a special priced bottle of QUERCETO Chianto Classico 2004 which was nice and modestly robust, but definitely not worth the regular $75 tag (it was marked down to $40).

We got Sam his order of FETTUCINE with MARINARA Sauce and he was most happy when it came and got tons of fresh parmesan grated onto it by our attentive server Hatem. We asked Hatem to put some of the cheese in the olive oil on the table and he quickly returned with some fresh pepper to make a delish dipping oil.

Will ordered the ZUCCHINI FRITTI which came with two sauces, a plain and unexciting marinara and a tasty thick garlic aioli. These were actually delish on their own and even Sam enjoyed tasting it. I was disappointed to find out they were out of the carpaccio, so opted for the CALAMARI FRITTI with the two same sauces. I thought the fresh pepper would be nice on the fritti and started looking for Hatem, and as Sam saw him pass nearby, he yelled out, "EXUSE ME!" and Hatem was there within seconds. It seems that our little boy is becoming a real mensch in the dining out category; maybe he can win a new Rammy for best dining out toddler!

Both of these appetizers were yummy and HUGE, and Sam enjoyed tasting so much that he asked, :Who would like a taste of my pasta?" to which we answered no thank you, but he was insistent! So we did.

Will chose the entree pizza (which was 8 BIG slices for $19) called PIZZA POLLO al PESTO with chicken, pesto, pine nuts, purple onion and goat cheese. It had so much on it that Sam refused to try it, being the simple plain pizza guy that he is. It was so big, we will all be eating leftovers today for lunch; let's see if Samuel eats it then. My SCALLOPPINI di VITELLO al LIMONE was a tender cut of three veal medallions in a tasty piquant lemon sauce with a nice helping of very soft polenta on the side and a serving of broccoli that was so plain it screamed for something.

We decided to head home as the maraschino juice in the Shirley Temple was wearing off and we thought any dessert might aggravate the situation, so we all headed home where Sam gobbled up some jiggly blueberry jello with fresh raspberries.

While we had a very nice time at NICOLA's, I can't say it is excellent, simply good fare and the prices are a bit higher than some other fine spots such as Ristorante Pesto (Woodley Park) that are what i call true local Italian bistros. Of course, these days, Bebo in Crystal City and Alla Lucia in Alexandria offer finer quality food, but in town, this is a nice option.

Tuesday, October 02, 2007

Help support FOOD & FRIENDS and get pies to eat!!

As you know we are big supporters of FOOD & FRIENDS here in Washington and this year they are offering a wonderful charitable opportunity to ORDER PIES online and also help support their charity! You can buy the pies for yourself, your friends, your clients or even donate them to a FOOD & FRIENDS client in need of food. Below is the information on how to do it!

This season, you can help provide Thanksgiving meals to hundreds of people facing one of life's most difficult challenges by participating in Food & Friends' new Slice of Life event. By taking home a pie for yourself or sending one to a Food & Friends client, you will help to make the holiday season brighter for one of your neighbors living with HIV/AIDS, cancer or another life-challenging ilness. Choose from Apple, Pumpkin, or Signature Chocolate Torte, all baked by local favorite Bread & Chocolate. To order yours today, please visit www.foodandfriends.org/sliceoflife07.

Also, for those of you who like to join us, please save the date for the 2008 FOOD & FRIENDS CHEF's BEST event which will be MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008.

Saturday, September 15, 2007

varying vibes at EXTRA VIRGIN

We have always enjoyed the food and service at EXTRA VIRGIN in Shirlington (Arlington, VA) where we love to go before or after a performance at the new Signature Theater complex across the street. We did just that last night after a short cabaret performance using a certificate we had purchased at a charity auction for a "tasting menu for two."

On arrival we were a bit shocked to see the place heaving at the bar with a jazz band playing quite loudly. We had a reservation and were quickly shown to our table, which we soon moved from to a quieter spot further from the music. I think the a/c was really messed up (perhaps they have no zones), since there were so many people at the bar (where it was clearly turned up)that it was ice cold in the dining area. We ordered a bottle of LA CAPPUCCINA GARGANEGA 2006 from Soave in Veneto that was quite tasty and enjoyed the delicious bread with the olive oil/tapenade mixture that was quickly poured by our server. We showed him the gift certificate and told him the chef could prepare almost anything he wanted, but I think the crowds and bad timing may have severely influenced his choice of what to serve which sadly showed little love or invention. We would have been better off simply ordering off the menu.

A simple field green salad arrived with vinaigrette which was nice, but was so simple it was boring.

Next came a plate split between two pastas (which came out just past lukewarm): the GNOCCHI with MOZZARELLA in Tomato Basil Sauce strained out for fresh ground pepper, which took a while to get, and the VEAL & MUSHROOM Stuffed RAVIOLI in a similar reduction was a much better choice with the ravioli coming out nicely al dente. We moved on to a wonderful deal on the "1/2 price clearance wines" by choosing a 2001 CASTELLO del TERRICCIO "TASSINAIA blend of Sangiovese/Cab/Merlot that was silky with slight to medium tannins and really was amazing at $55!!

Our entrees were a delicious ROCKFISH with ARTICHOKE Hearts in buttery BELL PEPPER COULIS, but nobody seemed to have a clue what it was (we asked THREE people, and our server finally figured it out) with the other being a VEAL SCALLOPINI with BROCCOLI RABE & Mushrooms in a simple and unexciting sauce. Sadly part of once piece of meat was extremely chewy.

We decided to take over for ourselves and told our server we wished to choose our own desserts: PANNA COTTA of LIME with STRAWBERRY Compote was fruity and creamy and not heavy at all, while the TORTA de MELE is a Puff Pastry filled with Caramelized Apples and Pear Sorbet on the side, nice but no prizes.

We left full, but feeling unfulfilled; perhaps a result of the Friday night crowd (the live jazz is apparently there on Thursday THRU Sunday!) and such a hectic scene that there was really not much interest from the kitchen other than moving the tables. Maybe it will improve IF we try again next year.

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Getting Hooked on HOOK

It took us almost half a year to get to HOOK, Georgetown's newest hot and heaving dining spot overseen by brilliant young chef BARTON SEAVER (ex of Cafe Saint-Ex) (www.hookdc.com). Hook is definitely worth the visit if you can overcome the whole Georgetown scene, which I personally detest. Parking is a BIG issue and I recommend a 630PM reservation which allow you to pull up right in front at 625pm and obtain the parking permit (there are now parking machines rather than meters here) on M Street for up to 2 hours at 25cents per 15mins or $2.00 for 2 hours. You need only go back outside once during your visit to obtain extra time as fees are required until 10PM!

That said, once inside, my only complaint is the noise levels which rise pretty high once the place is full (that was by 730pm); and I am confident it is full every night! The long narrow restaurant has a bar/high tables at the front with a separate dining room at the rear facing an open kitchen and another room upstairs. The arched ceiling may not help the noise factor, but there is a warm overall feeling to the spot with rough white stucco-like walls dark wood tables (again with those silly gold mats) and very comfy beige leather chairs and banquettes; overall a very modern almost sleek 60's feel due to the light fixtures.

While I am sure many come here for the bar scene or to be seen, we came for the food and left totally satisfied on that account. The menu is simple and highlights fresh FISH starting with sashimi like portions of CRUDO which are $3 each (about 2-3 small bites apiece) or 3 for $8.00. I tried the MACKEREL with Rosemary, Orange Syrup & Chive which was, as expected, an intensely fishy fish. The superb BOQUERONE or ANCHOVIES in Olive Oil and fried Celery Leaf are the simplest and purest, while the WAHOO takes top prize with its HAZELNUT and Lime with coarse Salt creating an almost margarita-like feel to the dressing.

The appetizers are big on fresh salads or combinations thereof with the "signature" (how I hate that term) GRILLED CALAMARI and WARM POTATO SALAD with Basil Walnut PESTO offering up tasty whole pieces of small squids (a bit more pesto would have been welcome) and a heaping portion of the potato salad. A couple of us at the table were underwhelmed by the dish. The GOAT CHEESE STUFFED PEPPERS with Walnuts, Turino Pepper puree and Tomato were called very spice, but really did not pervade more than a couple of seconds on intensity. I think I would have overall preferred just to try all the other crudo options or perhaps one of the interesting (beet) salads.

The wine list overseen by sommelier Francesco is large and varied and gives you many possibilities. We started with a FERRATON GRENACHE BLANC Cotes du Rhone 2005 which exhibited hints of terroir along with acidity from the citrus; a great crudo accompaniment. Next came a wonderful ANSELMI GARGANEGA "San Vincenzo" 2005 from Veneto and our third white was a CORTESE di GAVI 2006 from PIO CESARE (piedmont) which was crisp cold and perfumey. There are so many good whites (and reds too) it is very hard to decide). The bread is also a treat with amazingly fresh TOMATO FOCCACIA and a wonderful Garlic Aioli spread that is neither too thick or creamy, but very tasty and intense. Our second batch of bread was an even better treat with the excellent tomatoes saying goodbye and the Foccacia coming with FRESH ANCHOVIES on top!

As I said, FISH is the word here and the entrees all excelled in the quality and preparation. We listened to our server David and to Chef Barton and ordered four wonderful dishes. The least exciting (tastewise, although the fish was superb) was the MAHI-MAHI with Risotto (which was also excellent). All the other three dishes exhibited much more excitement on the palate from the POLLOCK with CORN-BACON-CHORIZO Stew and Smoky Potato Chips to the amazing BLUEFISH with POTATO-ZUCCHINI Cake and that same yummy BASIL WALNUT Pesto. I think the top hit was my CORN CRUSTED TAUTOG(a sea bass also called wreckfish) with a CABBAGE CARROT-HERB Salad and STEWED SHELL BEANS. Every bite of this dish and indeed, most of the others offered up a new mouthful of pleasure.

We switched to an amazing red wine made by a friend of Francesco's named Elisabetta for FORADORI wines. It was a 2002 TEROLDEGO ROTALIANO that was like drinking a Barbera with a bite. The wine is medium bodied and at an amazing $18 on the menu is a STEAL! It goes great with most fish, especially the involved preparations we had (although perhaps not as well with the lighter Mahi-Mahi).

You can't skip dessert when HEATHER CHITTUM is the pastry chef and there are some new winners here. While the BROWN BUTTER ALMOND CAKE with Black Raspberry Creme Fraiche Sorbet works together, on its own the cake lacks enough moisture. The CHOCOLATE PUDDING PIE with Bitter Chocolate Sauce and Chantilly is great for chocoholics who like PUDDING as that is really what is it. The PEACH CROSTATA with VANILLA Ice Cream and Blackberry Coulis is very sweet, but a good fruit option, while my LINGONBERRY LINZERTORTE will go down in history as one of the top desserts around; indeed I told Heather herself it should be on the National Preservation List! The wonderful torte with its beautiful lattice is accompanied by TALEGGIO CHEESE Ice Cream (with a Port Wine Reduction) that makes the dish the winner it is. The cheese along with the fruit and excellent pastry creates a combination worth of any top prize! What a great way to go home after such a superb seafood celebration!

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

more dining delights at DINO

As always, we can never seem to stop raving about DINO's on Connecticut Ave. opposite the Uptown Theater. This week we went with friends and their two 4-years olds as well as Samuel as Dino's always has a good pasta dish for kids (amongst others). The kids wolfed down the tasty bread (I love to dip mine in a mix of the olive oil, sea salt, ground pepper and parmesan that i make at the table) and then completely vacuumed up the SPAGHETTI & MEATBALLS. Their GELATO portions for dessert similarly underwent the disappearing act!

Check out Dino's website (http://www.dino-dc.com/) as there are many offers in August and some that continue into September. We took advantage of free corkage on certain days and brought three Virginia wines: BREAUX Viognier 2002, FABBIOLI CELLARS Fratelli 2005 Red and a superb BREAUX 2001 NEBBIOLO.

This week Dino's offers a $30.06 three course "Restaurant Week" special and you can get plenty to eat. I started with the FIORI di ZUCCA or Zucchini Flowers panko crusted and deep fried and stuffed with smoked mozzarella on a bed of tomato coulis and pesto. It was a wonderful remembrance of our recent trip to Italy. The BEET SALAD Special with ROBIOLA Cheese, Heirloom Tomatoes and Greens is a good size and excellent choice for weight watchers.

Entrees included my tasty ARTIC CHAR over Sauteed greens with a CORN & MUSHROOM Nage that was not too rich, but slightly creamy for taste and depth. Heavier dishes are available for those seeking more depth such as the intense LASAGNETTE al RAGU which is a pork & veal ragu lasagna with a rich cheese fonduta and crispy bacon as well. Similarly GRAMIGNA con AGNELLO (Lamb Pasta) is another hearty, but not as rich, dish with those fab heirloom cherry tomatoes again.

For desserts the TIRAMISU got good marks, while I kept simple with two cheeses: GUFFANTI PECORINO Foglie di Noce-a nutty sheep from Tuscany and UBRIACO PROSECCO VENETO aged in walnut leaves with prosecco infusion (hence the name "ubriaco" meaning "drunk"). Both were perfect, slightly hard and with great depth. Served with candied walnuts, some fresh berries, a compote and some fruit bread--it's a great small cheese dessert which can be enlarged should you wish more choices.

It seems that new chef STEFAN BOILLON is off to a good start.

Sunday, August 26, 2007

be sure to try TOWN HALL in the 'hood

Ever since Will left SAVEUR as their PR person years ago and the place closed subsequently, we were a bit sad. Last night, after almost two years in business, we took SAMUEL to TOWN HALL (www.townhalldc.com) at 2218 Wisconsin Ave, NW (in upper Geo'town) to find a pleasant and wonderful neighborhood replacement.

Named for the "town" in Georgetown as well as the neighborhood feel, and the "hall" in Hall Place (the neighboring surrounding street) one has a warm feel and neighborly charm with a bit of sport's bar thrown in. While the two flat screen TV's over the bar were quiet yesterday, you might prefer the back room for quieter dining on a busy bar night. The decor is almost more clubby with leather chairs and darker woods and banquettes. Perhaps only the B&W photos on the wall need improvement as they as so small, they can really not be seen from the tables. Add to this a Tuesday night 1/2 wine price policy and a Wednesday night 15% discount for those from the "neighborhood" (loosely defined, but I would think at least the same zip code (20007) would be a minimum requirement) and you really do have an attempt to bring in the locals.

Chef Paul MADRID has put together a varied menu of starters, salads, sandwiches and entrees giving everyone a wide choice. Samuel, of course, chose the SPAGHETTI with TOMATO Sauce which he gobbled up after the requisite Parmesan cheese was provided. We all adored the tasty OLIVE PESTO TAPENADE which comes with Baked Pita Chips instead of bread.

Ah. how nice not to have to pay 1 to 3 Euros for awful bread as a cover charge and to enjoy the bread or alternate as well!

We ordered a refreshing bottle of dry and crisp REGALEALI ROSE 2005 from Sicily. Will and I shared appetizers: GUACAMOLE & TUNA TARTARE with tasty WONTON CHIPS and SOY GINGER DRIZZLES which was also refreshing and while not novel, a hearty and tasty portion. The SPICY JERK BARBECUE "Alcides" WINGS with Mayo Ranch Dipping Sauce are named for one of the guys in the kitchen who came up with the bbq/jerk combo which is not too spicy but packs a nice quick spicy bite that does not linger too long. You will need a fresh napkin (luckily Will had Sam's wet wipes!) after you lick off the sauce from your fingers--it's YUMMY! The wings are meaty and there were about 10 pieces making for a large portion as well.

If you are in the mood for a tasty huge juicy burger, this is a great place to do the $10 BLACK ANGUS 8 ounce BURGER with any toppings you like. Will chose the CHEDDAR CHEESE, MUSHROOMS and BACON and got a huge burger piled high with tasty toppings and a huge plate of fries which were good and tasty, but I have had better. A glass of GNARLY HEAD ZIN from Lodi is a good burger pairing, but not a remarkable Red Zinfandel.

My entree was also a large portion and a truly wonderful combination of flavors and tastes: CORIANDER & BLACK PEPPER Crusted AHI TUNA came in a "bath" of PINEAPPLE RUM GASTRIQUE which was a nice foil of a sauce for the mild pepper on the tuna (I actually added a bit of ground pepper to the beautifully rare slices--that was exactly how I ordered them!). On the side was a COCONUT RISOTTO which was tasty and not really sweet; it reminded me of Asian sticky rice with coconut (perhaps sticky rice would be a good option to pair as well?) topped with Sauteed Spinach.

As you can imagine from the portion sizes we were too full for dessert, and we are really trying to watch our weight after the trip anyway! Believe it or not, at home it's salads and grilled meats, fish and veggies only! Sam gobbled up a scoop of Haagen Dazs Strawberry and we headed home very happy and feeling very welcome in a new (well, for us) neighborhood spot!

Monday, August 20, 2007

Viridian veers to victory with new chef Michael Hartzer

We are back in DC and up and running and had a superb first night out since our return from Europe last week. We had heard that Chef Michael Hartzer previously of Ray's the Classics, Citronelle and the Inn at Palmetto Bluff (in SC) had recently taken over at Viridian (www.viridianrestaurant.com) on 14th Street at P (next to Studio Theater) and we needed to catch up with him and the restaurant as well. Still very white and clean with varying displays of gallery artwork, it gives one a very crisp feel to dine there. Although, the video display now running (over and over and over) above the bar of a house demolition is hardly art to me.

That said Viridian has some great specials on wine on Sundays (ignore the website where it says Sundays & Mondays) as well as discounts for folks in the local zip codes as well on certain nights, not to mention a 3 course prix fixe from 530-7pm. Ask in advance for days and times as they seem to fluctuate.

We started with a Sardinian FUNTANALIRAS VERMENTINO di GALLURA 2005 that was tart and refreshing and a nice pairing with some of the slightly spicy starters.
A brilliant amuse in a champagne glass was GAZPACHO of HONEYDEW with Cucumber, Arugola, Creme Fraiche and Tabasco for a bite. We were ready to go on to more exciting palate pleasers: The SCALLOP ROMESCO is a huge hit with SPICY PEPPER PUREE, thrilling SHERRIED HZAELNUTS (that add wonderful crunch) & Burnt Scallions. The huge "PHO" (play on the Vietnamese style) CHICKEN SALAD is a slow poached chicken with WATERCRESS, SPROUTS, RADISH in a LIME CILANTRO Dressing that is a tru "pho" save for the lack of noodles. This salad could easily be a lunch-size entree, but we gobbled it up with no avail.

The TARTARE DUET has a cylinder of TUNA with Ginger, Tobiko & Cucumber and its partner the BEEF has TARRAGON MUSTARD SAUCE and a boiled Quail Egg served with pita-type crackers and flatbreads that are yummy too. The tartare can be requested as ONLY tuna or ONLY beef as well.

Having just returned from Italy it is hard to ignore the deconstructed WARM CAPRESE TART which has superb tomatoes, ricotta, bufala mozzarella over sauteed RAPINI with Chili Flakes for that slight punch. We were all thrilled that Chef Hartzer is not afraid of spice and uses it so well.

We moved on to a MONTIRIUS VACQUEYRAS 2004 with low tannins and minimum chalk making this an excellent medium to full bodied red. Incidentally, there are many excellent wines in the higher 20$ to mid-$40 range, but the $50-$60 options offer some real treats. We had a COOPER-GARROD FINLEY 2002 California SYRAH that would work with any full bodied dish (meat or fish) which is what Viridian offers; there are also two vegetarian entrees which make a nice treat for you non-meat & fish eaters!

I must also mention the side dishes which are a treat in themselves and not to be missed: CARAMELIZED SALSIFY with COGNAC GLAZE is enough to excite me just in name, but if you try it, you may never eat vegetables another way again! The SAUTEED WILD MUSHROOMS with MANCHEGO CHEESE & Smoked Paprika is also excellent, but unquestionably the biggest hit was the CLASSIC GREEN BEAN CASSEROLE made with French Haricots Verts and baked over with a creamy sauce (remember those cans of Campbell's Cream of Mushroom soup your mom used!), Brandy and topped with BUTTERMILK FRIED SHALLOTS, a true treat and BIG improvement over the Durkee Canned Fried Onion Rings!

The entree portions are large, satisfying and oh so tasty: RARE Rack of VENISON is grilled on the Chop with a GIN & JUNIPER VERMOUTH Jus (ala martini) and served with ALMOND, TARRAGON, Shaved FENNEL & Orange Salad. The STRIPED BASS has CELERY and SMOKED Crunchy BACON with a slightly spicy LUMP CRAB ARABIATA, Celery Root Coulis and Crispy Capers making it a wonderful combinations of flavors and textures. The SNAPPER is beautifully prepared as a skin-on fillet with
a STIR FRY of OYSTER & BEECH MUSHROOMS, "Thai" peanut, SPROUTS, COCONUT MILK and JALAPENO Coriander Puree all reminiscent of Chef Hartzer's take on "pad thai" but again without the noodles.

While I might avoid the sorbets at dessert the ITALIAN CITRUS CAKE with Orange Cream and Fresh Oranges is a novel and exciting treat; not too sweet or cloying, yet refreshing and quite different. The BLACKBERRY CRUMBLE will be shortly renamed as it is more of a trifle than a crumble, rich with whipped MAPLE CREAM, Vanilla Ice Cream and Fresh BLACKBERRIES, it is nonetheless tasty. The PEACH & CHEVRE TART is a Chevre based cheesecake with delicious grilled & glazed peaches and BASIL Anglaise, making it, too, another novel and tasty dessert. Viridian rings up a victory for all of us! and we can't forget the excellent service we received from MARY!

I forgot to mention the focaccia comes with yummy olive butter and a roasted potato and garlic puree.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Venice-vying for your Euros but not so much at VINI da GIGIO

Venice is renowned for being a VERY EXPENSIVE location to eat, shop, live or breathe these days, so it's nice to find some deals around. The first night we hit a famous "family" spot called VINI da GIGO just behind the San Felice Church (seconds from the Ca d'Oro) which is a true local experience, especially when it comes to seafood. The local drink reminiscent of Campari is APIRIL served with a spritz and works fine on a hot summer night to refresh the palate. The ANTIPASTO MISTO SPECIALITA VENEZIANE offers up some spider crab (watch for shells), White Polenta(they don't use yellow here), a Fried FISH BALL made from creamy MONKFISH, yummy SARDINES and ONIONS, a small size scallop however served with its rare and SUPER-TASTY CORAL, and SMALL local SHRIMP on POLENTA with a drizzle of balsamic (Will's favorite). BIGOLI in SALSA is a local pasta specialty that is served everywhere and offers larger than spaghetti pasta served with an intense and tasty sauce made from anchovy & onion, however, it is a pure sauce and there are no whole bits of either ingredients found therein.

A SOAVE CLASSICO CALVARINO 2004 from Pieropan started us offer using the wonderful local Veneto region wine and we moved on to super aromatic COLLIO BIANCO from Friuli region 1999/2001 mixed vintages from La Castellana winery that had the oddest hint of coconut milk (which we all liked!). Our final wine was a light red--the regional SCHIOPPETTINO Riserva 2993 from ANTICO BROILO in Fruili as well. It was a great match for my SEPPIE ALLA VENEZIANA another very local dish of SQUID served in a rich squid ink sauce over White Polenta. Everyone else loved their fish dishes as the were so fresh and simply prepared.

Desserts were quite good as well with a CREMA CATALANA that is akin to Creme Brulee but may be the best we have ever found anywhere?? A simple LIMONCELLO chiffonade drink was nice, but hardly filling while the BERRY TART with CREME ANGLAISE made me happy, and others adored the SEMIFREDDO of CHOCOLATE with Berry Sauce and Hazelnut!!

Super kudos to our warm and welcoming waitress who was a dream and anticipated our every need.