NYC's Benno is batting high for French haute bistro (11-26-21)

 Our last evening on the quick holiday trip to NY was supposed to be the vegetarian tasting menu at Dirt Candy as Samuel loved that place. We got a call around 1pm that they were closing for a while due to a Covid case, so we scuttled and Sam decided he wanted to see his friends. Will and I headed to E 27th Street at 5th Avenue where the Michelin-starred Benno can be found in the lobby of an unassuming hotel. There is a bar in a large back room, but we were escorted past that and up the stairs to what looked like an art deco speak-easy club with cushy banquettes, a very cool chandelier that defies description and another bar at one end of the not too large room. I loved the fact that each table had a portable light on it, just in case you needed it to read the menu, which is simple and straightforward as they have a $250 tasting menu or a la carte from several categories with several items in each. We went tasting of course and were very happy we did. We opted not to take the $150 beverage pairing and instead chose a white and red which was perfect. The Vacqueyras Blanc 2018 from Montirius was creamy but also very mineral intense, hence the name "Mineral" on the bottle!  our sommelier was Cedar(named for a jazz musician) and he thought my choice was excellent as it was clearly not a wine folks choose. We spoke about the red and decided on the Ferrando Carema Etichetta Blanca 2015 Nebbiolo from Piemonte which he said is from the north and hence quite herbacious and earthy. We loved it! There was also yummy bread in the form of a salty Seaweed Roll(and it was truly seaweed intense) as well as a Polenta Baguette(which we never tried).

There were no amuses so we started immediately with a decadent and rich and creamy signature dish of Chef Mark Zuckerman's called "Royal White Sturgeon Caviar" which sits atop slice of abalone with a Matsutake Custard(photos on FB). It was an over the top dish which we adored and the minerality from the wine was ideal with the dish.

Next for me came the Marbre de Foie Gras which was a terrine of Hudson Valley Foie Gras with braised leeks and black truffles on the side, a telicherry pepper brioche and  frisee with vinaigrette. Will is not a foie gras person so he substituted the Coddled Egg from the Vegetarian Tasting Menu(which by the way looked fabulous as well) which came with Pole Beans, Chanterelles and Brown Butter; he loved it! Our server Satomi has suggested it and what a great choice indeed. She and the entire team were attentive and always there when we looked up for anything. We never had to ask for wine to be poured and after every course, someone swept the crumbs(even if there were none) off the table.

We had moved on to the red wine which was great with our pasta dish, a very rich and spicy Corzetti(these are black and white flat discs of pasta(with stamp designs on them) made from squid ink and saffron respectively and were served with Squid & Shrimp in a Calabrian Chile Sauce. we loved the dish and I have to say, I learned about a new pasta!

The Venison Saddle was pepper crusted and came with Braised Red Cabbage, Parsnip Puree and Sauce Poivrade and was just the right size as we were filling up

The cheese course was Arethusa Blue with a Persimmon Steamed Pudding with watercress, honey & candied walnuts that was a wondrous creation. It was followed bty a palate cleanser of Charentais Melon Sorbet with Sparkling Lemon water(in the sorbet) that was tart and refreshing.

The dessert was a Delice Au Chocolat that was like a bombe with Jivara mousse and Passion Fruit Ganache inside. Raspberry Dark Chocolates came before we left and we knew we had reached our limits. Benno was indeed a bravura bistro-style spot, but the elegance and attention made for the perfect meal as well.

NYC's AI FIORI has fallen in fare quality (11-24-21)

 Each year (save for the lost one in 2020) we head to NYC for Thanksgiving to catch some shows and be with our family. The weekend always starts with a Wednesday matinee on Broadway and yesterday's TINA, The MUSICAL was superb. Aftewards we have traditionally dined at the excellent AI FIORI in the Langham Hotel where the Michelin star service and food have always been fabulous. On arrival last night we were so happy to be back after last year's lost time and really wanted to have an amazing time. We settled into our cozy table overlooking Fifth Avenue from one story up with all the lights and people and Sam decided he wanted to try to Vegetarian Chef's Tasting Menu. When you do the tasting, the whole table has to do it, so we agreed and our super server ,Nicola, said that we could do the regular menu($175 each) while Sam had the veggie ($150). I ordered a bottle of delicious Zibibbo from Benvenuto 2018 in Calabria and some bread(olive rolls, sourdough and sesame) arrived. I knew something was wrong as the bread presentation here pre-Covid was enthralling and we always had the best breads and so many choices. The three placed on the table were okay, but won no prizes at all. I knew even more was wrong when NO amuses at all arrived. Even in prior years, when we ordered a la carte, amuses always abounded. I also noticed at this point that the lone fake hibiscus flower in the small vase on the table was so sad. I know that things are hard, but I think no flower is better than a fake sad looking one.

The first course arrived for Sam in the form of a simple salad that he said was delicious, but the love and presentation were truly no there. Our Himachi with olive puree, candied kumquat, kumquat puree and a piece of glazed fennel was simple yet filled with had a burst of flavors for a great start. 

Next Samuel got a nice buratta and we got a superb Beef Tartare with cornichon and two "zabagliones" of onion and tarragon, which were really delicious aiolis! Of course, there are photos on FB! The third course was Risotto; vegetable with trumpet mushrooms for Sam and Nova Scotia Lobster with little squares of apple for bursts of flavor and an odd fried chip of some sort on top. The lobster was skimpy and I felt really cheated. Chef Roberto Donna makes risotto so much better in Dc that it would throw this one out of the ring at first bite.

We moved on to a magnificent Aglianico del Vulture 2015 "Titolo" from Elena Fucci. I love trying wines from women winemakers and this was indeed a treat. Our fish course was a Halibut with fried and sauteed Sunchokes, Sunchoke Puree, Brussels Sprouts and Meyer Lemon Marmalade in a Virzo sauce that was excellent, indeed a winner and making us feel that the food was back on course. Same had Mezzaluna(ravioli) with squash and sage. 

The Duck course came with Red Endive, Mostarda and Huckleberry Sauce while Sam had a Polenta cake with pomegranate, cocoa bean puree and barley.  Both dishes were very good indeed and again our wine pairing shone with the duck.

We had told the servers when we arrived that we like all food save licorice and cannot have grapefruit due to statin medication for cholesterol. The sorbet that arrived was pomegranate-ginger with grapefruit gel,  They disappeared after our reminder and came back without the gel, refreshing.

Dessert was a very sweet White Chocolate Mousse with Banana Meringue, Coconut and Banana Gelato over Cocao Nibs. I thought that some of it was a bit cloyingly sweet, thought the banana meringue was neat and gelato was fab. When I told them, they took $10 off the final bill. Pumpkin Spice chocolates were a nice send away, but we left feeling that some of the love was gone at Ai Fiori. Is it us, is it the pandemic or is it just  that we yearn for a time before all the crap started? Not sure, but we will definitely rethink our next visit with a price tag like that one!!

--

MOON RABBIT tasting menu(Washington DC) makes your mouth water!(11/16/21)

 Each year at March of Dimes Signature Chefs we always buy a ton of dinner to use with friends during the year. Last night 12 of us gathered to use one from two years ago as we lost more than an entire year of these events. We gathered in the private dining room as Daniel served us delicious refreshing cocktails made of a Merlot reduction, St. German and Prosecco; I think many of us had seconds! Our meal was supposed to be a 7-course tasting but it started with an course that Chef Kevin Tien calls "Bread." We have had these amazing Turmeric Mantou Buns served with Cultured Honey Butter and Chili Crisp(really small pieces)on top that when spread on the warm buns melt so fast that you cannot resist popping half the bun in your mouth fast to keep the butter from running off! (Fotos on FB). These are indeed filling, but well worth trying when you come in for dinner at this gorgeous dining venue overlooking the water on the Wharf in the Intercontinental Hotel.

Next was a divine Crudo of Citrus Cured(in salt, sugar and seaweed) Wester Ross Salmon with Green Apple Nuoc Cham(spicy fish sauce), Moon Grapes, Celery & Puffed Grains. One of our guests declared that if all salmon were like this, she could eat it daily! I have to agree as the fish just melted in your mouth and the seasonings were sublime with that added crunch from the rice for fun. Our first wine for the first courses was a yummy Gradis Ciutta Collio Pinot Grigio 2020 from Robert Princic in Italy. We then moved on to a wonderful Dido blend from Montsant in Catalunya of Macadeu, White Grenache & Cartoixa 2017.

Australian Lamb Tartare with Cumin, Fennel, Shaoxing Pickled Shallots and Dill was served on a Large Crispy Banh Hoi (rice vermicelli cracker). These were the same crackers Chef Kevin used last week at this year's March of Dimes event but in that venue they had pate with spicy cherry jam!! The tartare was amazing and the dish allowed the meat to truly shine.

Siu Mai or Chinese Sausage Pork Boudin was served with a Mascarpone Hot Mustard --think fried wontons on crack!! OMG, what a great flavor and fun treat. Next came a Steamed Icelandic Cod with Cured Radish & Ginger Scallion Dashi. The fish was delicate and flaky and the radishes were so pretty we did not want to touch the magnificent plating.

We moved on to a yummy 2018 Duckhorn Merlot from Napa which was served with the amazing pasta course that I had requested as it was on the menu several weeks earlier for a James Beard Foundation fundraiser at Moon Rabbit. Everyone went insane over the Temomi Ramen Noodles tossed in XO Beurre Monte with Crawfish, Aromatic Panko and Chinese Sausage!! This dish could win a prize in any competition--as indeed they all could have, We were approaching "full" and thankful that the Beef course was small and simple yet full of flavor. Reverse Seared Ribeye was on a bed of Clementine Puree that was tart and a great foil for the met as well as Black Pepper Fish Sauce and Caramel Grilled Scallions. Shallots & garlic finished off the meat to perfection.

The dessert was another revelation and one of our guests who hails form Singapore was thrilled to see Ube on the menu. It is a Fiipino yam that is used for sweet desserts and his favorite is Ube ice cream. Last night it was Ube Flan with Palm Sugar Caramel, Coffee Gelee, Chocolate Streusel, Condensed Milk Ice Cream and Hazelnut Foam. I can only describe it as akin to panna cotta, but again "on crack."

we left thrilled to be of help to such a good charity and also knowing we would be back again soon as we still have one more similar tasting meal form last year's March of Dimes fundraiser on Zoom. Thanks to Chef Kevin Tien, our server/barman Daniel and the magnificent team at Moon Rabbi headed by Satoko at the front of house!

Pentagon Row's (Arlington, VA) MATTIE & EDDIE's make for excellent Irish pub fare(11-11-21)

 We headed out to Chef Cathal Armstrong's newest venture in Arlington set opposite the skating rink in Pentagon Row (where you can sit outside with heaters and watch the skaters!)for a fabulous Irish feast. This is indeed going back to Chef's roots as this warm cozy pub has such a great feel, and the food is indeed comfort food.  We sat inside in cozy leather chairs and red fabric banquettes and it was pretty empty for a Thursday, so we felt totally at ease with tons of space. Wood tones are prominent with old pub signs and mirrors abounding. Our server, Karina, gave us some suggestions and we ordered some cocktails. The drinks were good size, but a bit unexciting. Ould Poire is Grey Goose Poire Vodka with St Germaine, and Q Elderflower Tonic, while the Irish Bellini was Irish Mist Honey, Peach Schnapps, Peach & Honey Syrup & Prosecco. We switched to wine and loved the 2019 Neyers Chardonnay.

Cockles & Mussels were in a cream, white wine & dill broth and were delicious and served with large slices of Irish Bread & Butter as was the Irish Oak Smoked Salmon with greens, capers & lemon--a truly mouth melting salmon indeed. Sausage Rolls are crispy pastry with a yummy filling and a great sauce to dip in. The Ham & Cheese Toastie is a winning sandwich and would make an ideal lunch!!

Eamonn's Fish & Chips comes with 7 secret sauces and took us back to the old fish and chips spot Chef Cathal named for his son in Alexandria that we loved so much! House-Cured Corned Beef came with Cabbage Confit and Parsleyed Potatoes and the meat was indeed some of the most tender ever. My Lobster Pot Pie had the perfect puff pastry crust on top and was filled with tons of lobster chunks and a rich cream sauce. The side of Brussels Sprouts & Bacon should not be missed.

For dessert there was Apple Crumble with Vanilla Ice Cream and Bread & Butter Pudding with Toffee Sauce & Cream that got raves. My Irish Farm House Cheese was a selection of three (Mossfield, Willoughby & Cashel Blue) that was excellent with a blueberry jam and a fruit-nut bread that was niece, but quite intense reminding me almost of a slice of fruit cake! we had a great time with friends and are happy to know that we can still get those awesome fish & chips nearby, and so much more!