NYC's Benno is batting high for French haute bistro (11-26-21)

 Our last evening on the quick holiday trip to NY was supposed to be the vegetarian tasting menu at Dirt Candy as Samuel loved that place. We got a call around 1pm that they were closing for a while due to a Covid case, so we scuttled and Sam decided he wanted to see his friends. Will and I headed to E 27th Street at 5th Avenue where the Michelin-starred Benno can be found in the lobby of an unassuming hotel. There is a bar in a large back room, but we were escorted past that and up the stairs to what looked like an art deco speak-easy club with cushy banquettes, a very cool chandelier that defies description and another bar at one end of the not too large room. I loved the fact that each table had a portable light on it, just in case you needed it to read the menu, which is simple and straightforward as they have a $250 tasting menu or a la carte from several categories with several items in each. We went tasting of course and were very happy we did. We opted not to take the $150 beverage pairing and instead chose a white and red which was perfect. The Vacqueyras Blanc 2018 from Montirius was creamy but also very mineral intense, hence the name "Mineral" on the bottle!  our sommelier was Cedar(named for a jazz musician) and he thought my choice was excellent as it was clearly not a wine folks choose. We spoke about the red and decided on the Ferrando Carema Etichetta Blanca 2015 Nebbiolo from Piemonte which he said is from the north and hence quite herbacious and earthy. We loved it! There was also yummy bread in the form of a salty Seaweed Roll(and it was truly seaweed intense) as well as a Polenta Baguette(which we never tried).

There were no amuses so we started immediately with a decadent and rich and creamy signature dish of Chef Mark Zuckerman's called "Royal White Sturgeon Caviar" which sits atop slice of abalone with a Matsutake Custard(photos on FB). It was an over the top dish which we adored and the minerality from the wine was ideal with the dish.

Next for me came the Marbre de Foie Gras which was a terrine of Hudson Valley Foie Gras with braised leeks and black truffles on the side, a telicherry pepper brioche and  frisee with vinaigrette. Will is not a foie gras person so he substituted the Coddled Egg from the Vegetarian Tasting Menu(which by the way looked fabulous as well) which came with Pole Beans, Chanterelles and Brown Butter; he loved it! Our server Satomi has suggested it and what a great choice indeed. She and the entire team were attentive and always there when we looked up for anything. We never had to ask for wine to be poured and after every course, someone swept the crumbs(even if there were none) off the table.

We had moved on to the red wine which was great with our pasta dish, a very rich and spicy Corzetti(these are black and white flat discs of pasta(with stamp designs on them) made from squid ink and saffron respectively and were served with Squid & Shrimp in a Calabrian Chile Sauce. we loved the dish and I have to say, I learned about a new pasta!

The Venison Saddle was pepper crusted and came with Braised Red Cabbage, Parsnip Puree and Sauce Poivrade and was just the right size as we were filling up

The cheese course was Arethusa Blue with a Persimmon Steamed Pudding with watercress, honey & candied walnuts that was a wondrous creation. It was followed bty a palate cleanser of Charentais Melon Sorbet with Sparkling Lemon water(in the sorbet) that was tart and refreshing.

The dessert was a Delice Au Chocolat that was like a bombe with Jivara mousse and Passion Fruit Ganache inside. Raspberry Dark Chocolates came before we left and we knew we had reached our limits. Benno was indeed a bravura bistro-style spot, but the elegance and attention made for the perfect meal as well.