NYC's AI FIORI has fallen in fare quality (11-24-21)

 Each year (save for the lost one in 2020) we head to NYC for Thanksgiving to catch some shows and be with our family. The weekend always starts with a Wednesday matinee on Broadway and yesterday's TINA, The MUSICAL was superb. Aftewards we have traditionally dined at the excellent AI FIORI in the Langham Hotel where the Michelin star service and food have always been fabulous. On arrival last night we were so happy to be back after last year's lost time and really wanted to have an amazing time. We settled into our cozy table overlooking Fifth Avenue from one story up with all the lights and people and Sam decided he wanted to try to Vegetarian Chef's Tasting Menu. When you do the tasting, the whole table has to do it, so we agreed and our super server ,Nicola, said that we could do the regular menu($175 each) while Sam had the veggie ($150). I ordered a bottle of delicious Zibibbo from Benvenuto 2018 in Calabria and some bread(olive rolls, sourdough and sesame) arrived. I knew something was wrong as the bread presentation here pre-Covid was enthralling and we always had the best breads and so many choices. The three placed on the table were okay, but won no prizes at all. I knew even more was wrong when NO amuses at all arrived. Even in prior years, when we ordered a la carte, amuses always abounded. I also noticed at this point that the lone fake hibiscus flower in the small vase on the table was so sad. I know that things are hard, but I think no flower is better than a fake sad looking one.

The first course arrived for Sam in the form of a simple salad that he said was delicious, but the love and presentation were truly no there. Our Himachi with olive puree, candied kumquat, kumquat puree and a piece of glazed fennel was simple yet filled with had a burst of flavors for a great start. 

Next Samuel got a nice buratta and we got a superb Beef Tartare with cornichon and two "zabagliones" of onion and tarragon, which were really delicious aiolis! Of course, there are photos on FB! The third course was Risotto; vegetable with trumpet mushrooms for Sam and Nova Scotia Lobster with little squares of apple for bursts of flavor and an odd fried chip of some sort on top. The lobster was skimpy and I felt really cheated. Chef Roberto Donna makes risotto so much better in Dc that it would throw this one out of the ring at first bite.

We moved on to a magnificent Aglianico del Vulture 2015 "Titolo" from Elena Fucci. I love trying wines from women winemakers and this was indeed a treat. Our fish course was a Halibut with fried and sauteed Sunchokes, Sunchoke Puree, Brussels Sprouts and Meyer Lemon Marmalade in a Virzo sauce that was excellent, indeed a winner and making us feel that the food was back on course. Same had Mezzaluna(ravioli) with squash and sage. 

The Duck course came with Red Endive, Mostarda and Huckleberry Sauce while Sam had a Polenta cake with pomegranate, cocoa bean puree and barley.  Both dishes were very good indeed and again our wine pairing shone with the duck.

We had told the servers when we arrived that we like all food save licorice and cannot have grapefruit due to statin medication for cholesterol. The sorbet that arrived was pomegranate-ginger with grapefruit gel,  They disappeared after our reminder and came back without the gel, refreshing.

Dessert was a very sweet White Chocolate Mousse with Banana Meringue, Coconut and Banana Gelato over Cocao Nibs. I thought that some of it was a bit cloyingly sweet, thought the banana meringue was neat and gelato was fab. When I told them, they took $10 off the final bill. Pumpkin Spice chocolates were a nice send away, but we left feeling that some of the love was gone at Ai Fiori. Is it us, is it the pandemic or is it just  that we yearn for a time before all the crap started? Not sure, but we will definitely rethink our next visit with a price tag like that one!!

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