I wanted a fun lunch today since I was having a picnic before the opera in the evening, so I chose PAPPY's BBQ which when I called (I had been warned to do so) advised me that they were almost sold out. SO I headed downstairs from my gorgeous room here at the new FOUR SEASONS St. Louis to the LUMIERE PLACE CASINO attached and just on the river north of the arch.
There are some pretty impressive dining options in the Casino complex and I chose BURGER BAR Lumiere Place, sister to the BURGER BAR Las Vegas, created by French chef HUBERT KELLER of Fleur de Lys in San Francisco. OK-OK these are gimmicks, but I had been told by the Four Seasons staff that Keller pops in almost every week or two and is indeed VERY INVOLVED.
The fun sleek place is loaded with booths with granite tables and a private tv or two in each booth. Of course, the servers can change the station, but they haven't a clue what CNN or such is on, let alone the US OPEN. I think the people that come here must be VERY FAT as I was at least a foot away from the granite table and the seats or table don't move. The noisy thump thump music was not impressive, but changed to VOLARE soon and back again. It was insane. At my rear booth I saw two guys thru the glass wall forming the perfectly made burgers and that was all; they seemed BORED. The bar in the front is 1/2 in the dining area and 1/2 in the casino with 3 flat screen TV's on both sides, but the casino folks have super-duper-1-arm bandit-style-gambling machines at each seat of the bar!
I perused the menu and could not decide between the YAKIMA VALLEY (Wash) Ridgefield Farm Beef Burger or the Black Angus. I went for the latter at $9.50 basic or so with only a roll (you can choose from 5 types--I got Sesame), pickle, tomato and lettuce. I chose not to take any toppings (each is ALA CARTE) and splurged for $2.50 for the Hubert Keller SHALLOT & RED WINE REDUCTION. Reduction is ISN'T. It is a thin sauce that works best like a "jus" you might French Dip a Roast Beef Sandwich into. It needed more body, but was tasty. The burger was VERY GOOD, but not at the level of say RAY's HELL BURGER in Arlington, VA which I reported on earlier this year and OBAMA made famous a month or so ago.
The burgers have many options up to the Kobe Beef with Foie Gras and Truffles for $50; no temptation here at all.
So hopefully next time in St. Louis, I'll have to get to Pappy's quicker as they only serve daily til they are sold out!
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Saturday, June 20, 2009
St. Louis' MODESTO makes tapas terriffic
When I come to St. Louis it is primarily for my meal at Niche and to attend the opera. Yesterday, I had a matinee and evening performance and always look for spots near the opera house in Webster Groves. While they offer terrific picnics to buy there (which I will do tonight), great dining is not prolific in this area. About 4-5 miles east is a neighborhood called "The Hill" which has many spots known for traditional dining. Limos, doormen, and dress codes can be the norm, so it's not the kind of spot I usually seek. At the end of this strip of dining spots on Shaw Ave is MODESTO (www.modestotapas.com) located about 15 minutes from downtown and is just the right spot for any kind of meal you desire before or after the opera...or anything else. It has been there more than 8 years and has a huge following so much so that at 530pm last night the place was 1/2 full and by 6pm there were only several empty tables. The decor is simple with wooden floors, tables and chairs, orange and yellow walls along with exposed brick a large bar in the front and yes, as it fills up, the place can get a bit noisy.
Most everything on the menu is $5-11 with exceptions being the Fried Lobster Tail in Chimichurri for $15 (which I skipped). My deliciously handsome server, Scott, went through the entire menu with me and I pondered the not too huge list for a while then chose. Sadly, I chose too much as these tapas portions are HUGE and could easily feed 4 people when sharing, not the usual 2 we think of back East! I ordered a glass of the white wine on special which Scott said was outstanding; he was so right. XARMANT ARABAKO TXAKOLINA 207 from the Pais Vasco in Spain has a minerally essence at first with intense grapefruit and lime flavors,yet it is crisp with a long nice finish; an amazing summer wine indeed.
My first tapas was BOQUERONES con ALUBIAS which was about 8 or so tasty large marinated WHITE ANCHOVIES with WHITE BEANS and RADISHES, The fish was not too salty and was ideal in the 93 degree heat to start. What was amazing was how well the Txakolina (white wine) went with the vinegar from the marinade. I think I may have found a new wine to pair with any dish with vinaigrette!
There were numerous fish and meat dishes A LA PLANCHA or simply grilled. Since I was in Missouri, I chose the superb MISSOURI TROUT. An entire 1/2 fish filleted perfectly and grilled with just some oil and minimal seasoning; it did require a bit of ground pepper.
Third came COLIFLOR REFRITA, a dish I shall seek in other tapas destinations. The CAULIFLOWER was cooked to perfected with tasty seasoning and served in TRUFFLE OIL.
I switched to a nice SALNEVAL ALABARINO 2007 from Riax Baixas which was nice, but not the intensity and depth of the Txakolina. It paired well with the more intense dishes to follow: PULPO CAN PATATAS - again a huge portion of at least 8 Roasted Baby Octopi with Potatoes & Bacon in a Sherry Vinaigrette, which only suffered slightly from a bit too much vinaigrette. The pulpo was tender and tasty with yummy crispy tentacles.
My last tapas was the MEJILLONES con SALSA di CIDRA or MUSSELS steamed in hard cider with Chorizo and peppers. At first, I did not care for the dish as the mussels seemed bland. I then figured out the secret of how to eat the dish. I took the mussels out of their shells and placed them in the small round soup spoon that Scott had brought with the dish and scooped up some of the broth with Chorizo and peppers ( a bit too much on the peppers for me) which gave each mollusk the flavor it needed as the sauce was lost if you just ate them from the shell.
A cup of superb, if not too hot coffee and I was off to La Boheme (which by the way, paled next to the matinee of Salome!).
Most everything on the menu is $5-11 with exceptions being the Fried Lobster Tail in Chimichurri for $15 (which I skipped). My deliciously handsome server, Scott, went through the entire menu with me and I pondered the not too huge list for a while then chose. Sadly, I chose too much as these tapas portions are HUGE and could easily feed 4 people when sharing, not the usual 2 we think of back East! I ordered a glass of the white wine on special which Scott said was outstanding; he was so right. XARMANT ARABAKO TXAKOLINA 207 from the Pais Vasco in Spain has a minerally essence at first with intense grapefruit and lime flavors,yet it is crisp with a long nice finish; an amazing summer wine indeed.
My first tapas was BOQUERONES con ALUBIAS which was about 8 or so tasty large marinated WHITE ANCHOVIES with WHITE BEANS and RADISHES, The fish was not too salty and was ideal in the 93 degree heat to start. What was amazing was how well the Txakolina (white wine) went with the vinegar from the marinade. I think I may have found a new wine to pair with any dish with vinaigrette!
There were numerous fish and meat dishes A LA PLANCHA or simply grilled. Since I was in Missouri, I chose the superb MISSOURI TROUT. An entire 1/2 fish filleted perfectly and grilled with just some oil and minimal seasoning; it did require a bit of ground pepper.
Third came COLIFLOR REFRITA, a dish I shall seek in other tapas destinations. The CAULIFLOWER was cooked to perfected with tasty seasoning and served in TRUFFLE OIL.
I switched to a nice SALNEVAL ALABARINO 2007 from Riax Baixas which was nice, but not the intensity and depth of the Txakolina. It paired well with the more intense dishes to follow: PULPO CAN PATATAS - again a huge portion of at least 8 Roasted Baby Octopi with Potatoes & Bacon in a Sherry Vinaigrette, which only suffered slightly from a bit too much vinaigrette. The pulpo was tender and tasty with yummy crispy tentacles.
My last tapas was the MEJILLONES con SALSA di CIDRA or MUSSELS steamed in hard cider with Chorizo and peppers. At first, I did not care for the dish as the mussels seemed bland. I then figured out the secret of how to eat the dish. I took the mussels out of their shells and placed them in the small round soup spoon that Scott had brought with the dish and scooped up some of the broth with Chorizo and peppers ( a bit too much on the peppers for me) which gave each mollusk the flavor it needed as the sauce was lost if you just ate them from the shell.
A cup of superb, if not too hot coffee and I was off to La Boheme (which by the way, paled next to the matinee of Salome!).
Friday, June 19, 2009
St Louis' NICHE has never been better and rates #1 for hundreds of miles around
I returned to St. Louis for a weekend at the opera festival here, but had to add a night to dine at Niche (www.nichestlouis.com) where I first dined just a year ago at award winning Chef Gerard Craft's superb establishment located just south of downtown St. Louis. I had waited too long, but fell in love with every dish as soon as I took each bite. I reiterate again, there are no chefs in this city and indeed, this state that touch Chef Craft's work. Save for Chicago, perhaps not even anywhere between the two coasts! I put myself in his hands and he offered up his regular tasting menu (which changes nightly) for $65 with the wine pairings for $35. He did however, graciously, add many extra courses...so below I have starred those on the tasting menu, even though the other dishes are available a la carte.
Furthermore, I had the pleasure of sitting between a sweet couple on my left (he turned out to be a VP of Enterprise Rent A Car) and one of my all time favorite (now retired, but still teaching) coloratura sopranos Erie Mills, at the table to my right!
Just as I was sitting down, Chef Craft ran in the door and came over asking if I had started yet. I said I had just ordered some water and he apologized as he had been working at the St.Louis' Zoofari charity event, a black tie affair in 94 degree heat (which had a heat factor of 103!). Back home, no chefs would do a charity event on a weekend...but I guess St. Louis is different. Anyway, he slid into his position at the window to the kitchen and oversaw everything else that came out for the next 4+ hours that I was there!
Kudos as well to all the kind staff and especially my server Scooter, who took the time to explain each dish intricately and made sure that all those dining around me got exactly what they want with no problems each time someone requested something special!
My first dish was the HAMACHI CRUDO with Baby TOMATOES in an Herb Vinaigrette, Housemade CHIPS in SOY POWDER and Baby PURPLE BASIL that had an intense and flavorful burst. The fish was superb, the chips were so divine, I said the should package them (they gave me a small box hours later to take home some!).
*(this is the symbol to indicate tasting menu dish) Second was a CAULIFLOWER "SOUP" which was another treat coming via the whipped cream dispenser but using the creamy cauliflower soup. It becomes frothy, but not thin or weak like many of those "foam" dishes we see these days. The soup had small slices of cauliflower, a breaded soft-center deep fried QUAIL EGG floating in it and a slice of house cured GUANCIALE, simply the most perfect piece of bacon I have ever had (from the cheek). A swath of SHERRY Vinegar reduction exited the bowl on one side and some rosemary oil was added for flavor. These two courses were paired with a flavorful TERRE di GIURFO "Siliccenti" INSOLIA 2007 that I sadly never got more information about as it was quite tasty.
I requested a taste of the OCTOPUS SALAD which really was an ARUGULA Salad with small tender pieces of octopus, basil, pine nuts and large fingerling potatoes in a RAMP Vinaigrette. It was light and would indeed be a perfect summer starter for any meal. This came with an EMMOLO SAUVIGNON BLANC from Napa made by the ex-wife of the famous Caymus winery using Caymus' grapes
*Seared ESCOLAR is a huge plate of tasty fleshy fish just barely cooked and slightly warm served with SUMMER BAY SQUASH (green & yellow) as well as SQUASH BLOSSOMS and the crunchiest of PUFFED RICE over a puree of BLACK GARLIC, another perfectly created and served dish that works so brilliantly in this intense heat we have here. A CHARLES & CHARLES ROSE 2008 from Washington State was a nother ideal pairing made from 100% Syrah.
A huge SEA SCALLOP arrived veer CAULIFLOWER Puree again with the GUANCIALE, Romanesco Broccoli, Marvelous MORELS a stripe of Rhubarb puree and Micro Fennel. A perfect dish available as a main course or split as the couple next to me decided to do! Paired with a divine DAVID NOYES 2006 SONOMA PINOT NOIR, I was now in ultimate heaven (well, I had been all evening).
*Greenwood Farms BERKSHIRE PORK BELLY could be the best version of this meat I have ever had with very little fat after being smoked for 24 hours and yielding a yummy crunchy crusted top, it is served over PEA Puree with Toasted MACADAMIA Nuts. On the side was a small bunch of PEA SHOOTS with a White Chocolate Vinaigrette. Last year Chef Craft used the white chocolate on a couple of dishes and here it was again just right...not sweet, or cloyingly so, just a right touch and in the dressing with vinegar, a brilliant creation. DOMAINE GALEVAN Cotes du RHONE 2006 had a plumminess that was just perfect with the tender soft smoked pork.
I couldn't believe an extra dish arrived at this point, but it was a pasta creation that was again as novel as everything else that comes from the kitchen. FAGGATINI--small wonton-shaped pasta purses were filled with Tete de cochon (pig's head) and served in a tasty Pork DASHI Broth with pork cracklings for crunch and texture. OH WOW! The Pinot Noir stayed on as it is so great with pork.
*Strawberry-Lime Sorbet was the palate cleanser as I waited a while for my "big" meat dish to arrive. I did ask several times to slow the meal down, and Scooter got the pacing just right.
*Fruitland Farm Pasture Raised RIBEYE CAP comes from Missouri and does the state proud. The slices of steak were as tender as it gets and served on a huge plate gorgeously designed and laid out with WATERCRESS-POTATO Puree, Red Wine Ver Jus, cubes of Muscat Gelee and Pearl Onions. The BELL CLARET 2006 from Napa is 75%Cabernet, 8% Syrah and a blend of Petit Verdot, Cab Franc and the unexpectedly from Napa Malbec was a perfect pairing for the flavorful meat that I savored slowly so as not to overload. I was indeed getting full, but knew that only one small dessert was to follow and it was now after 11pm, so I could easily enjoy every bite.
*Crumble topped RHUBARB BROWN BETTY was a perfect finale and just about 5-6 bites so as not to overkill. Served with RICOTTA LEMON-THYME GELATO which deserves an award in itself and paired with a superb slightly acidic LE TERTRE du LYS d'OR 2005 Rhone Dessert wine akin to Coteau du Layon which married the rhubarb and lemon surprisingly well.
I chatted with everyone for a while, said goodbyes, and sadly departed, but with a cheese course to eat for my breakfast today which I just finished. WOW again. PETIT BASQUE, PRARIE BREEZE Cheddar and a slightly stinky but firm WINNIMERE came with a Rhubarb Compote and salty crostini which I actually would never use, but loved for breakfast! So I got one more last day's taste of NICHE which I know I will return to again and again.
Furthermore, I had the pleasure of sitting between a sweet couple on my left (he turned out to be a VP of Enterprise Rent A Car) and one of my all time favorite (now retired, but still teaching) coloratura sopranos Erie Mills, at the table to my right!
Just as I was sitting down, Chef Craft ran in the door and came over asking if I had started yet. I said I had just ordered some water and he apologized as he had been working at the St.Louis' Zoofari charity event, a black tie affair in 94 degree heat (which had a heat factor of 103!). Back home, no chefs would do a charity event on a weekend...but I guess St. Louis is different. Anyway, he slid into his position at the window to the kitchen and oversaw everything else that came out for the next 4+ hours that I was there!
Kudos as well to all the kind staff and especially my server Scooter, who took the time to explain each dish intricately and made sure that all those dining around me got exactly what they want with no problems each time someone requested something special!
My first dish was the HAMACHI CRUDO with Baby TOMATOES in an Herb Vinaigrette, Housemade CHIPS in SOY POWDER and Baby PURPLE BASIL that had an intense and flavorful burst. The fish was superb, the chips were so divine, I said the should package them (they gave me a small box hours later to take home some!).
*(this is the symbol to indicate tasting menu dish) Second was a CAULIFLOWER "SOUP" which was another treat coming via the whipped cream dispenser but using the creamy cauliflower soup. It becomes frothy, but not thin or weak like many of those "foam" dishes we see these days. The soup had small slices of cauliflower, a breaded soft-center deep fried QUAIL EGG floating in it and a slice of house cured GUANCIALE, simply the most perfect piece of bacon I have ever had (from the cheek). A swath of SHERRY Vinegar reduction exited the bowl on one side and some rosemary oil was added for flavor. These two courses were paired with a flavorful TERRE di GIURFO "Siliccenti" INSOLIA 2007 that I sadly never got more information about as it was quite tasty.
I requested a taste of the OCTOPUS SALAD which really was an ARUGULA Salad with small tender pieces of octopus, basil, pine nuts and large fingerling potatoes in a RAMP Vinaigrette. It was light and would indeed be a perfect summer starter for any meal. This came with an EMMOLO SAUVIGNON BLANC from Napa made by the ex-wife of the famous Caymus winery using Caymus' grapes
*Seared ESCOLAR is a huge plate of tasty fleshy fish just barely cooked and slightly warm served with SUMMER BAY SQUASH (green & yellow) as well as SQUASH BLOSSOMS and the crunchiest of PUFFED RICE over a puree of BLACK GARLIC, another perfectly created and served dish that works so brilliantly in this intense heat we have here. A CHARLES & CHARLES ROSE 2008 from Washington State was a nother ideal pairing made from 100% Syrah.
A huge SEA SCALLOP arrived veer CAULIFLOWER Puree again with the GUANCIALE, Romanesco Broccoli, Marvelous MORELS a stripe of Rhubarb puree and Micro Fennel. A perfect dish available as a main course or split as the couple next to me decided to do! Paired with a divine DAVID NOYES 2006 SONOMA PINOT NOIR, I was now in ultimate heaven (well, I had been all evening).
*Greenwood Farms BERKSHIRE PORK BELLY could be the best version of this meat I have ever had with very little fat after being smoked for 24 hours and yielding a yummy crunchy crusted top, it is served over PEA Puree with Toasted MACADAMIA Nuts. On the side was a small bunch of PEA SHOOTS with a White Chocolate Vinaigrette. Last year Chef Craft used the white chocolate on a couple of dishes and here it was again just right...not sweet, or cloyingly so, just a right touch and in the dressing with vinegar, a brilliant creation. DOMAINE GALEVAN Cotes du RHONE 2006 had a plumminess that was just perfect with the tender soft smoked pork.
I couldn't believe an extra dish arrived at this point, but it was a pasta creation that was again as novel as everything else that comes from the kitchen. FAGGATINI--small wonton-shaped pasta purses were filled with Tete de cochon (pig's head) and served in a tasty Pork DASHI Broth with pork cracklings for crunch and texture. OH WOW! The Pinot Noir stayed on as it is so great with pork.
*Strawberry-Lime Sorbet was the palate cleanser as I waited a while for my "big" meat dish to arrive. I did ask several times to slow the meal down, and Scooter got the pacing just right.
*Fruitland Farm Pasture Raised RIBEYE CAP comes from Missouri and does the state proud. The slices of steak were as tender as it gets and served on a huge plate gorgeously designed and laid out with WATERCRESS-POTATO Puree, Red Wine Ver Jus, cubes of Muscat Gelee and Pearl Onions. The BELL CLARET 2006 from Napa is 75%Cabernet, 8% Syrah and a blend of Petit Verdot, Cab Franc and the unexpectedly from Napa Malbec was a perfect pairing for the flavorful meat that I savored slowly so as not to overload. I was indeed getting full, but knew that only one small dessert was to follow and it was now after 11pm, so I could easily enjoy every bite.
*Crumble topped RHUBARB BROWN BETTY was a perfect finale and just about 5-6 bites so as not to overkill. Served with RICOTTA LEMON-THYME GELATO which deserves an award in itself and paired with a superb slightly acidic LE TERTRE du LYS d'OR 2005 Rhone Dessert wine akin to Coteau du Layon which married the rhubarb and lemon surprisingly well.
I chatted with everyone for a while, said goodbyes, and sadly departed, but with a cheese course to eat for my breakfast today which I just finished. WOW again. PETIT BASQUE, PRARIE BREEZE Cheddar and a slightly stinky but firm WINNIMERE came with a Rhubarb Compote and salty crostini which I actually would never use, but loved for breakfast! So I got one more last day's taste of NICHE which I know I will return to again and again.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
I found a RELIC in Bethesda, but should it remain buried?
Last night we took Samuel and some dear friends of ours to the newest "in" spot in Bethesda. RELIC (www.relicinbethesda.com) is a modern place that turns into a disco at 11pm nightly; no surprise there as it is clearly NOT geared for dining. The are high tables with high chairs (in a French provincial whitewash style which matches nothing and looks way out of place), many low tables of beautiful drfitwood in odd shapes with low leather and "zebra" sofas and stools and such. Our table was as crammed as it gets and narrowed oddly at my end making it difficult to find a place t put a plate or glass. The bar at the rear (which we were told is not open yet) has about 7 full fledged leather saddles around it which are meant to be stools, but you can't reach the bar from them and have no place to put your drink....in the words of Arte Johnson, "very interesting...."
The staff tries, but fell way short. They have only been open a month and have a very short wine list, so I picked a medium priced red (Eos Estate) and our server returned about 5 minutes later to say they were out of it, so I went with the Tamas Sangiovese....5 minutes later she returned with the same words. I asked which wines they DID have and she said she was sorry, but few folks order wine by the bottle and she was not familiar with the wines at all and which were out. I tried MONTECILLO 2005 Crianza from Rioja which was also served by the glass (they had to have that!?) and it was quite nice. Our server had to observe the manager open the wine as she had never done that before!
Our friend asked for iced tea; they don't have that.
We got Samuel started on a plate of superb PENNE BOLOGNESE which was no the normal intense red sauce, but a bolognese of VEAL lightened to pink with some cream; it was the best dish all night, and at the tapas size of $7 or $8, a real steal.
We chose some of the $3 hapy hour tapas options:
FROGS LEGS in SPICY GARLIC SAUCE were meaty and tasty witht he sauce almost Asian in essence; another hit for me.
LAMB MERGUEZ SAUSAGE with spicy harissa and olives was probably the biggest hit of the tapas while the CRAB CAKES which were pan seared with LEMON BEURRE BLANC also doing well.
The BEEF SLIDERS were simple with a spicy relish and sauteed onion and the POTATO CHICKPEA CAKES were uneventful and actually dry.
We went on to entrees and ordered a side tapas of th GRUILLED VEGGIES with SHERRY which was nice. It had sliced portobellos and a tiny pile of spinach that barely made a bite and a half!
The main courses we chose were the SEAFOOD SKEWERS of shrimp, tuna and salmon which Will declared as tasteless. The MIXED GRILL choice was better with a decent ROSEMARY LAMB CHOP and some mediocre diced rosemary potatoes, but highlighted by a superb Skirt STEAK and a gorgeous whole boned QUAIL. The quail was stuffed with extremely fatty bacon which we skipped, but the meats were all tasty and a sauce on the side was nice as well.
This is the place to go for a bite like at happy hour for those $3 tapas and a drink, but not really a meal if you wish to sit comfortably and dine for a while.
The staff tries, but fell way short. They have only been open a month and have a very short wine list, so I picked a medium priced red (Eos Estate) and our server returned about 5 minutes later to say they were out of it, so I went with the Tamas Sangiovese....5 minutes later she returned with the same words. I asked which wines they DID have and she said she was sorry, but few folks order wine by the bottle and she was not familiar with the wines at all and which were out. I tried MONTECILLO 2005 Crianza from Rioja which was also served by the glass (they had to have that!?) and it was quite nice. Our server had to observe the manager open the wine as she had never done that before!
Our friend asked for iced tea; they don't have that.
We got Samuel started on a plate of superb PENNE BOLOGNESE which was no the normal intense red sauce, but a bolognese of VEAL lightened to pink with some cream; it was the best dish all night, and at the tapas size of $7 or $8, a real steal.
We chose some of the $3 hapy hour tapas options:
FROGS LEGS in SPICY GARLIC SAUCE were meaty and tasty witht he sauce almost Asian in essence; another hit for me.
LAMB MERGUEZ SAUSAGE with spicy harissa and olives was probably the biggest hit of the tapas while the CRAB CAKES which were pan seared with LEMON BEURRE BLANC also doing well.
The BEEF SLIDERS were simple with a spicy relish and sauteed onion and the POTATO CHICKPEA CAKES were uneventful and actually dry.
We went on to entrees and ordered a side tapas of th GRUILLED VEGGIES with SHERRY which was nice. It had sliced portobellos and a tiny pile of spinach that barely made a bite and a half!
The main courses we chose were the SEAFOOD SKEWERS of shrimp, tuna and salmon which Will declared as tasteless. The MIXED GRILL choice was better with a decent ROSEMARY LAMB CHOP and some mediocre diced rosemary potatoes, but highlighted by a superb Skirt STEAK and a gorgeous whole boned QUAIL. The quail was stuffed with extremely fatty bacon which we skipped, but the meats were all tasty and a sauce on the side was nice as well.
This is the place to go for a bite like at happy hour for those $3 tapas and a drink, but not really a meal if you wish to sit comfortably and dine for a while.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
CORDUROY's cuisine can conquer
I am sorry you have not been hearing much from me lately. While Will is dieting (he has lost a ton!) we have been dining out a bit less....but this week we went to the new (well, almost new) CORDUROY (www.corduroydc.com 1122 9th Street, NW-(202) 589-0699) across from the Convention Center where Chef TOM POWER has opened a beautiful
space and now does not have to deal with hotel room service or such.
It is well worth the visit.
The four of us sat down to a bottle of CROZES HERMITAGE Domaines des RENIZIERRES 2005 which had some big mineral notes and was a superb aperitif due to its great taste and flavor and individuality. The wine list is not monstrous, but it is large and in depth and offers many wonderful options and novelties which we took advantage of.
Our appetizers were not as impressive as the main courses since Will really felt the OYSTERS on the HALF SHELL with CHAMPAGNE MIGNONETTE were a bit lackluster. I think that he was expecting oysters with more character; perhaps not Kumamoto, but something with excitement. We never did find out what kind they were. On the other hand the RED
SNAPPER BISQUE was divine and the appetizer portion of CRISPY SOFT SHELL CRABS with 40 YEAR OLD VINEGAR Sauce and Wilted Greens was a masterpiece. It had a small haystack of crunchy potatoes on top, and intense, but not overpowering vinegar flavor and a light lemony creamy sauce to balance. The dishes were all paired perfectly with a SANCERRE
from DELAPORTE "Cuvee Maxime" Vielles Vignes 2007 that had real character and due to the old vines lots of intensity. It's always nice to have a different type of wine that the old Sauvignon Blanc or Chard and have it really make an impression.
The main courses were all top notch with not a bite missed. Will had the SOFT SHELLS and was the envy of all after they had tasted mine. The other choices were the ROAST MUSCOVY DUCK with FIG (and Port Wine) Sauce cooked just right, as was the Pennsylvania LAMB LOIN with Garlic Crepenette and GARLIC Cream Spinach (divine). My ROAST & CONFIT GUINEA HEN with Local Baby Leeks and Shitake Mushrooms burst with flavors and many different elements making it like several different dishes that all blended together.
We had moved on to an amazing ISENHOWER SYRAH "Wild Alfalfa: 2002 from Columbia Valley Washington that was a great find as well. It was also superb with the cheeses we shared for dessert:
a salty buy wonderful runny cow--AFFIDELICE PETIT LIVAROT
a creamy firm ROBIOLA
a novel crumbly PRIMA DONNA cow
and the QUEIJO de EVORA a Portuguese sheep
One PISTACHIO BREAD PUDDING graced the table and it was a lighter version than usual, but I adored the cheese.
Our service was flawless and our sever Peter was a genius with the wines as well. Everyone at Corduroy makes your evening special and we can't wait to return!
space and now does not have to deal with hotel room service or such.
It is well worth the visit.
The four of us sat down to a bottle of CROZES HERMITAGE Domaines des RENIZIERRES 2005 which had some big mineral notes and was a superb aperitif due to its great taste and flavor and individuality. The wine list is not monstrous, but it is large and in depth and offers many wonderful options and novelties which we took advantage of.
Our appetizers were not as impressive as the main courses since Will really felt the OYSTERS on the HALF SHELL with CHAMPAGNE MIGNONETTE were a bit lackluster. I think that he was expecting oysters with more character; perhaps not Kumamoto, but something with excitement. We never did find out what kind they were. On the other hand the RED
SNAPPER BISQUE was divine and the appetizer portion of CRISPY SOFT SHELL CRABS with 40 YEAR OLD VINEGAR Sauce and Wilted Greens was a masterpiece. It had a small haystack of crunchy potatoes on top, and intense, but not overpowering vinegar flavor and a light lemony creamy sauce to balance. The dishes were all paired perfectly with a SANCERRE
from DELAPORTE "Cuvee Maxime" Vielles Vignes 2007 that had real character and due to the old vines lots of intensity. It's always nice to have a different type of wine that the old Sauvignon Blanc or Chard and have it really make an impression.
The main courses were all top notch with not a bite missed. Will had the SOFT SHELLS and was the envy of all after they had tasted mine. The other choices were the ROAST MUSCOVY DUCK with FIG (and Port Wine) Sauce cooked just right, as was the Pennsylvania LAMB LOIN with Garlic Crepenette and GARLIC Cream Spinach (divine). My ROAST & CONFIT GUINEA HEN with Local Baby Leeks and Shitake Mushrooms burst with flavors and many different elements making it like several different dishes that all blended together.
We had moved on to an amazing ISENHOWER SYRAH "Wild Alfalfa: 2002 from Columbia Valley Washington that was a great find as well. It was also superb with the cheeses we shared for dessert:
a salty buy wonderful runny cow--AFFIDELICE PETIT LIVAROT
a creamy firm ROBIOLA
a novel crumbly PRIMA DONNA cow
and the QUEIJO de EVORA a Portuguese sheep
One PISTACHIO BREAD PUDDING graced the table and it was a lighter version than usual, but I adored the cheese.
Our service was flawless and our sever Peter was a genius with the wines as well. Everyone at Corduroy makes your evening special and we can't wait to return!
Saturday, May 23, 2009
MORTON's steaks still superb and more....
Every now and then I get a mailing from Morton's (you can sign up at www.mortons.com/steak) offering a $99.99 special for two which includes a huge meal that we always take home lots of leftovers from!
Last night several friends of mine from Jamaica joined me since Will was out of town and we headed to the Morton's on Connecticut Ave, NW (and L St.) in downtown DC, which despite the Memorial Day weekend was pretty busy.
The atmosphere is dark and clubby; we had trouble reading the menus and wine bottle label at times, but he staff is always friendly and our server Jake was a gem, having just graduated from Geo. Wash. Univ. and trying to figure out where to head with his future. He was so upbeat and most refreshing.
The huge loaf of warm onion bread came and we ordered a bottle of superb TAZ Vineyards "Goat Rock" Syrah 2002 from Santa Barbara, California. It was a super full-bodied wine with plum, mild tannins and indeed ideal for all the heavy food to follow.
Our friend David being on a limited diet chose the excellent LOBSTER BISQUE to start, rich and creamy, and great for extra weight and then went on to a large platter of SMOKED SALMON, which he said was good, but a bit too salty as he prefers the salmon to be less salty (maybe it was the load of capers!).
The rest of us went for the STEAK & SEAFOOD SPECIAL at $49.99 per person (they will accommodate any number of people even though the deal is billed as per couple at $99.99). This starts with a choice of House or Caesar Salad, and we had the latter which is a huge plate, and tthey even added a 1/2 dozen anchovies to mine at no cost makin it truly a great salad, despite the plain croutons that I simply avoided (the onion bread is better!).
The main course consists of a SINGLE CUT FILET (8 ounces) and a seafood choice (the other options are scallops or shrimp) and we immediately chose the JUMBO LUMP CRAB CAKE. This is an excellent virtually all crab cake seared to perfection with little breading and a slight crunch on the top. The lemony sauce that accompanies is superb and a nice change from tartar or remoulade. The steak is always great and comes with BEARNAISE if you like (on the side). In addition each couple gets a potato and veggie. Last night we tried the superb tasty MASHED POTATOES, creamy, rich and with a little bit of crunchy topping that was a light seasoning for fun. The BAKED POTATO is monstrous and splits between two (or more) people easily. It is lots of fun since they always present the butter, sour cream and bacon bits as you like for each person. Finally, the GARLIC STRING BEANS were garlicky, but not intense, not mushy and really just right.
Dessert options (yup, it's included in the $49.99) are two choices and neither is my preference, but they are as expected HUGE. KEY LIME PIE is nice and loaded with whipped cream. I sampled two bites and let one of my guests take the rest home! The Legendary HOT CHOCOLATE CAKE got raves.
This deal can be upgraded for $8 per person if you prefer a DOUBLE CUT of FILET (how could anyone eat a pound of this with everything else....although I guess you can plan another meal with a doggie bag!), Prime Ribeye or Single Cut NY Strip. I'll stick with my filet!
Last night several friends of mine from Jamaica joined me since Will was out of town and we headed to the Morton's on Connecticut Ave, NW (and L St.) in downtown DC, which despite the Memorial Day weekend was pretty busy.
The atmosphere is dark and clubby; we had trouble reading the menus and wine bottle label at times, but he staff is always friendly and our server Jake was a gem, having just graduated from Geo. Wash. Univ. and trying to figure out where to head with his future. He was so upbeat and most refreshing.
The huge loaf of warm onion bread came and we ordered a bottle of superb TAZ Vineyards "Goat Rock" Syrah 2002 from Santa Barbara, California. It was a super full-bodied wine with plum, mild tannins and indeed ideal for all the heavy food to follow.
Our friend David being on a limited diet chose the excellent LOBSTER BISQUE to start, rich and creamy, and great for extra weight and then went on to a large platter of SMOKED SALMON, which he said was good, but a bit too salty as he prefers the salmon to be less salty (maybe it was the load of capers!).
The rest of us went for the STEAK & SEAFOOD SPECIAL at $49.99 per person (they will accommodate any number of people even though the deal is billed as per couple at $99.99). This starts with a choice of House or Caesar Salad, and we had the latter which is a huge plate, and tthey even added a 1/2 dozen anchovies to mine at no cost makin it truly a great salad, despite the plain croutons that I simply avoided (the onion bread is better!).
The main course consists of a SINGLE CUT FILET (8 ounces) and a seafood choice (the other options are scallops or shrimp) and we immediately chose the JUMBO LUMP CRAB CAKE. This is an excellent virtually all crab cake seared to perfection with little breading and a slight crunch on the top. The lemony sauce that accompanies is superb and a nice change from tartar or remoulade. The steak is always great and comes with BEARNAISE if you like (on the side). In addition each couple gets a potato and veggie. Last night we tried the superb tasty MASHED POTATOES, creamy, rich and with a little bit of crunchy topping that was a light seasoning for fun. The BAKED POTATO is monstrous and splits between two (or more) people easily. It is lots of fun since they always present the butter, sour cream and bacon bits as you like for each person. Finally, the GARLIC STRING BEANS were garlicky, but not intense, not mushy and really just right.
Dessert options (yup, it's included in the $49.99) are two choices and neither is my preference, but they are as expected HUGE. KEY LIME PIE is nice and loaded with whipped cream. I sampled two bites and let one of my guests take the rest home! The Legendary HOT CHOCOLATE CAKE got raves.
This deal can be upgraded for $8 per person if you prefer a DOUBLE CUT of FILET (how could anyone eat a pound of this with everything else....although I guess you can plan another meal with a doggie bag!), Prime Ribeye or Single Cut NY Strip. I'll stick with my filet!
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Georgetown's NEYLA knows Middle-East cuisine with flair
Last year at our favorite food event we had the pleasure of meeting Chef Abdul Hash Housh of Georgetown's Neyla (www.neyla.com), and while we tend to avoid dining in Georgetown, this was the second night in a row we were thoroughly impressed in the neighborhood. We had bought the dinner at Chef's Best Auction and saved it for my birthday, and each bit was indeed a treat.
Kudos to Nabil our server who seemed to anticipate our every need and showed up within seconds with ARABESQUEs for us all, the house drink made with Absolut Citron, Triple Sec and Infused Lemonade. It was a not at all sweet martini that I would return to regularly. Mana'ish, the toasted pita bread with seasoning came with Lebanese Yogurt and Olives that got us munching; we had no clue what was to follow, but it seemed UNENDING!
The MEZZA or appetizers included Hummus, Fried Kibbeh, Tabbouleh, Kabiss, Chicken Shwarma, Garpe Leaves stuffed with Cinnamon Rice, Lahmajeen (best described as a pizza-like pita with lamb spread on top), Cheese Rolls of Manchego & Goat in Puff Pastry Cigars, Lebanese Sausage, Vegetable Kibbeh, Gambas (shrimp) & Cilantro, Kafta Hara (ground beef with shaved fried garlic) and the best Baba Ghanough we have all ever had in our lives! Highlights were the Baba Ghanough, but all the other dishes shined as well. The Gambas were less buttery or oily than the tapas or Italian style we usually get-here with a sauce that had more body than simply hot butter or oil.
The Kibbeh came with an Indian-like Raita of Cucumber/Yogurt/Mint and the fried garlic on the Kafta Hara was another novelty and tasty treat.
Neyla has outdoor space on the corner of N and Wisconsin, but opted to sit indoors in the Casbah-like dark draped interior with huge bar, mirrors and nice atmosphere.
Kasara Lebanese White wine came with the mezze and red with the main courses...they were both quite tasty and came from the Bekaa Valley. We were even more surprised when the huge platter with so much more arrived, albeit we were grateful for the long rest Nabil gave us! BEEF KABOBS, CHICKEN SHISH TAOUK, BEEF KAFTA, LAMB CHOPS and the most tender LAMB KABOBS all came atop Grilled Tomatoes and Green Sumac Onions with huge bowl of the tastiest RICE PILAR with Slivered Almonds. For taste, GARLIC WHIP is served with the meat and works to perfection. It is made by adding egg white and ice to the garlic mash to make a meringue like dip that is divine.
We were stuffed but gave in to after dinner drinks or coffee as we knew dessert was at hand. The platter included BAKLAVA and other Turkish Pastries, ASCHTA (a fluffy concoction like rice pudding) with Banana, and KANAFFE- a semolina, cream cheese, simple syrup and rosewater mix. I was even more surprised when a small CHOCOLATE MOUSSE FONDANT arrived with Vanilla Ice Cream on Fried Dough with a birthday candle. It was quite good as we each took a small bite. It was delivered by some guy who just seemed to crash our table and try to chat. We had no clue who he was or where he came from, and he was simply quite obnoxious. Will stepped away to ask Nabil to get rid of him and he actually did leave, but came back again! Well, at least he was just chatty and silly and not rude or anything.
This year's birthday gets an A+ and Neyla easily gets top rating on my list for Middle Eastern cuisine. Bravo to Chef Abdel Hash Housh!
Kudos to Nabil our server who seemed to anticipate our every need and showed up within seconds with ARABESQUEs for us all, the house drink made with Absolut Citron, Triple Sec and Infused Lemonade. It was a not at all sweet martini that I would return to regularly. Mana'ish, the toasted pita bread with seasoning came with Lebanese Yogurt and Olives that got us munching; we had no clue what was to follow, but it seemed UNENDING!
The MEZZA or appetizers included Hummus, Fried Kibbeh, Tabbouleh, Kabiss, Chicken Shwarma, Garpe Leaves stuffed with Cinnamon Rice, Lahmajeen (best described as a pizza-like pita with lamb spread on top), Cheese Rolls of Manchego & Goat in Puff Pastry Cigars, Lebanese Sausage, Vegetable Kibbeh, Gambas (shrimp) & Cilantro, Kafta Hara (ground beef with shaved fried garlic) and the best Baba Ghanough we have all ever had in our lives! Highlights were the Baba Ghanough, but all the other dishes shined as well. The Gambas were less buttery or oily than the tapas or Italian style we usually get-here with a sauce that had more body than simply hot butter or oil.
The Kibbeh came with an Indian-like Raita of Cucumber/Yogurt/Mint and the fried garlic on the Kafta Hara was another novelty and tasty treat.
Neyla has outdoor space on the corner of N and Wisconsin, but opted to sit indoors in the Casbah-like dark draped interior with huge bar, mirrors and nice atmosphere.
Kasara Lebanese White wine came with the mezze and red with the main courses...they were both quite tasty and came from the Bekaa Valley. We were even more surprised when the huge platter with so much more arrived, albeit we were grateful for the long rest Nabil gave us! BEEF KABOBS, CHICKEN SHISH TAOUK, BEEF KAFTA, LAMB CHOPS and the most tender LAMB KABOBS all came atop Grilled Tomatoes and Green Sumac Onions with huge bowl of the tastiest RICE PILAR with Slivered Almonds. For taste, GARLIC WHIP is served with the meat and works to perfection. It is made by adding egg white and ice to the garlic mash to make a meringue like dip that is divine.
We were stuffed but gave in to after dinner drinks or coffee as we knew dessert was at hand. The platter included BAKLAVA and other Turkish Pastries, ASCHTA (a fluffy concoction like rice pudding) with Banana, and KANAFFE- a semolina, cream cheese, simple syrup and rosewater mix. I was even more surprised when a small CHOCOLATE MOUSSE FONDANT arrived with Vanilla Ice Cream on Fried Dough with a birthday candle. It was quite good as we each took a small bite. It was delivered by some guy who just seemed to crash our table and try to chat. We had no clue who he was or where he came from, and he was simply quite obnoxious. Will stepped away to ask Nabil to get rid of him and he actually did leave, but came back again! Well, at least he was just chatty and silly and not rude or anything.
This year's birthday gets an A+ and Neyla easily gets top rating on my list for Middle Eastern cuisine. Bravo to Chef Abdel Hash Housh!
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