Remington at the Houston St. Regis gets raves(10-28-19)

 I joined two of the sales managers for dinner at my hotel on Monday night and the place was fairly deserted which made for a nice quiet evening in a restaurant located in a luxury hotel.  The menu is simple with some exciting dishes, all well prepared and the service is excellent. So many hotels these days are going for superstar chefs or noisy dining rooms and this was none of those.

 Every St. Regis hotel has a famous Bloody Mary recipe(who knew it originated at the NYC location ages ago), and this location is no exception, but here it's made with tequila, spiced up with a giant jalapeno on the rim as well as a shrimp hanging on the rim next to it...tasty indeed.  The wine list is very lengthy but tends to center on single varietals wine such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet or Merlot and lacks a bit in blends.  We hit the jackpot with a 2017 Sancerre from Pascale Olivet in the Loire.

 I started with the crudo of yellowfin ahi tuna which came with Tempura Kabocha squash and miso braised daikon radish in a yuzu-soy glaze with wasabi lime aioli.  There was a lot on the plate it was fun to dip the pieces of tuna in different things for different flavors. My host chose the tortilla crusted crab cake and I have to say it was huge and looked delicious.

 We sat drinking and munching on the fabulous bar snacks for a while so by the time it came time to order the main course the 3 of us decided to split two of the Peking style duck breast with steamed buns, Lo mein Stir fried noodles with egg and shrimp along with Chinese long beans, scallions and of course plum sauce.  I'm not sure who was in the kitchen but the different styles were perfectly executed and I am so glad we all chose to split these main courses as a course in Texas everything is huge.

 Indeed at my breakfast every morning I would ask for a 1/2 portion of everything because the portions were monstrous.

 That said we were all quite full and decided to forgo dessert and head up to bed.

Houston's XOCHI is much much more than Mexican(10-27-19)

I came down to Houston for some opera and had the opportunity to take out one of my clients and his family and we all had a real ball at XOCHI located in the downtown Houston Marriott Marquis. The place is slightly noisy and Sunday night at 630pm it was indeed full. I ordered a Nervous Traveler(no I am not) made from Reposado Tequila and Mezcal with Grand Marnier, Lime & Salt and it is a wonderful upscale Margarita indeed. Our super server Christian had an extra margarita later in the mail and was kind enough to offer me the Xochirita made from mezcal, orange liqueur, lime, citrus sugar and gusano salt which was nice, but a bit fruitier than the Nervous Traveler, which I liked much more.

The four of us decided to order some starters and share everything which was a tone of fun.

I think we had three orders of the Pulpo as their 8-year old son was crazy about the crispy wood roasted octopus with masa pancake, puya pepper adobo and roasted pumpkin seeds. The guacamole was superb and it comes with very thick chips that are more the thickness of pita and a different approach for a nice change. Taquitos Dorados were filled with chicken picadillo and served in a mole coloradito with crema and queso fresco. We all marveled at the Tacos de Lengua which were small soft tacos with a huge chunk of braised tongue on each with a morita pepper sauce.

The wine list had many Mexican wines that are virtually UNAVAILABLE in this country and Arturo was thrilled to cross the UNICO 2012 from Santo Thomas in Baja California off his bucket list; it was intense, full bodied and truly spectacular.

Pato en Estofado Almendrado was an amazing duck cooked in a mole sauce of tomato and almond that was out of this work.

The Cordoniz was two huge Texas quail(the best in the country for sure) with bacon wrapping and chorizo stuffing in ayacote beans, Istmeno sweet potato in a mole de cabeza(pumpkin) which was another marvel. There must be a dozen different mole sauces on the menu and we wanted more, but were getting full.

The side of Brussels Sprouts came roasted with butternut squash and onions in chintextle(chile pepper) sauce.

The gorgeous Lechon was slow cooked suckling pig with a super crispy skin, plantain molotes(mixed with pork masa and fried) and huaxmole(yet another version of the wonderful mole sauces).

We decided on one dessert and it was light and fun..Helados de Elote(corn custard ice cream) with blue corn atole, corn cookie and Texas Blue Corn Whiskey infused Ice Cream. So many of the dishes here are gluten-free as they are corn-based and it was especially nice with two folks at the table with celiac issues!

 What fun we all had and be sure to check out the FB pics which also have the magnificent Dia de los Mortos statues on display in the restaurant.

NYC's AI FIORI is always fabulous(10-26-19)

Last weekend we ran up to NYC overnight to see Samuel and enjoy a small dinner for family and friend at AI FIORI which is always a treat as the service is top notch quality, the setting is serene and sophisticated and the food is always fabulous.

I asked our sommelier Adam who knew a lot about the Pascal Agrapart Brut "Les 7 Cru" Champagne from Avize and he was exited to tell me all about its mineral intensity which is not common for champagne, and we LOVED it. The terroir was so unique and I will definitely look for this one in the future. Our server Adam(yes, confusing) brought the amuses of Watermelon Foam, pickled Celery and  Golden Raisin with Mint which was definitely novel and enjoyable and then the fun started. We all had the four course tasting menu which is a more than reasonable $120 per person for a Michelin-starred NYC spot. I started with the Terrine di Aragosta, a Nova Scotia Lobster with root vegetables, black truffle, wrapped in prosciutto with tarragon; it was divine. The Vellutata is also Lobster with Périgord Black Truffles and is rich and smooth and poured tableside over the chunks of shellfish so you can be sure there is plenty of that. Polpo all Piastra is a delish octopus with nduja, "XO" sauce, caramelized onion puree and red bell pepper. The Minestrone sounds simple but got raves and it is completely vegetarian with charred leeks, fennel and tomato oil. the bread always return all night so we can try them all: olive, sundried tomato, plain & rosemary.

Adam(the sommelier) was even happier to suggest a very rare white from northern Italy near the French border made from Prie Blanc grape(new to me) called Pavese Hermes Blanc de Morgeux et de la Sallee 2016 from the Valle d'Aosta region which again was loaded with mineral flavors and showed it terroir brilliantly. It was divine with the Tagliatelle with white truffles which were also shaved tableside and we all inhaled if we were not eating the dish. Pastas are the stars here and they included

-Spallini, a short rib and boschetto cheese ravioli with Burgundy Truffle and Beef Jus

-Orichiette with Lamb Sausage, Pomodor, Broccoli Rabe and Pecorino

-the signature Trofie Nero made with Ligurian Crustacean Ragu, Sepia, Scallops and Spiced Mollica which sent me to heaven

Main courses were varied as well from the gorgeous Vitello, a French milk-fed Veal Chop with Romesco, Eggplant, Charred Spring Onion and Patty Pan Squash to the traditional Tagliata of Dry Aged Strip Loin with Potato au Gratin, Cipollini Onions, Hen of the Woods mushrooms and Bordelaise Sauce, which Will declared a bit too salty.

Capesante were perfectly pan-seared Diver Scallops with Bacon Foam, Heirloom Carrots and Fennel, while the Uovo was a vegetarian treat of Slow Poached eggs with Purgatory Sauce, Stracciatella Cheese and Tomato Bread.

My Abbachio was a Roasted Lamb Saddle with Asparagus, Chanterelles, Fregola and a light pesto with balsamic which I adored. We moved to a magnificent Brunello di Montalcino 2013 "Pertinale" from Livio Sassetti that opened up after some decanting and swirling and paired beautifully.

Desserts here are good, but not what you would all awesome. The Busino was made with coconut milk, coconut almond crumb, lime and coconut sorbetto; you better like coconut for this.

The Pistachio Gelato got raves, but the Chai Sorbetto was declared too thin and light--maybe they needed Chai Gelato!

The Torta di Mele was a hit with me with Apple Pecan Cake, Calvados Caramel and Brown Butter Sage gelato.

We all went home quite full and quite happy and so very relaxed as Ai Fiori does indeed make you fell as if you are in a field of flowers somewhere away from the nise and din of NYC!

DC's GRAVITAS: great gourmet food, great everything, just a great evening(and now has a Michelin star!)(10-17-19)

We had the pleasure of meeting Chef Matt Baker several years ago at a the March of Dimes Signature Chefs(which he will be serving at tonight!) and I listened to his fabulous plans to open a fine dining place in the newly upgraded Ivy City in NE DC. It took him a year and he finally opened last year and we knew that this was going to be a special place.

Well, three weeks ago the Michelin folks awarded him his first star(I am sure more will come!) and we had the pleasure of returning there a week ago for his amazing tasting menu(you actually choose the courses if you prefer!). Three of us chose different plates with wine pairings as well and virtually every dish was superb(there was one or two minor flaws, which we mentioned and he noted with grace!).

We arrived to sip Mirabelle Brut Rose from Schramsberg, which I always forget is a wonderful sparkling wine producer in California. We also ordered cocktails and the "Fear of Flying" was a yummy mix of tequila, lime, soda, basil and Szechuan pepper syrup(more spice would have been even better). The fresh basil in the glass gave it an intense nose and truly refreshing flavor.

Evry course was served with precision by the team headed by Andrea, and the paired wines were poured timely by Sommelier/Manager Dave Kurka(and refilled when asked as well!), who has introduced a brilliant and varied and EXCITING wine list to boot! This is truly the best you can ask of a tasting evening of fine dining in DC I can recall.

Amuses arrived in the form of an Arancini with Basil pesto and Crostini with Tuna confit, black vinegar, nasturtium and basil. Our friend does not like fish, so she got duck breast with ginger on her crostini!

There was superb hot Focaccia, but I adored the Parker House Rolls with butter & fleur de sel!!

The first course for Will & I was a magnificent RAZOR CLAM Seviche with grilled onions, fall apple, beets...this was really a razor clam with a huge seafood salad on top that was truly amazing. Our friend, Liz, had the Fall Vegetable Salad which was a plethora of herbs, goat cheese espuma, beets, radish, heirloom carros in a white wine vinaigrette. Nothing but raves! Mas Cantal Antistiana "Els Corteis" 2017 Xarel-lo from Pinedes in Spain that we all agreed was simply perfect.

The next course for me was Butter Poached Maine Lobster with Crispy Sweetbreads, Yellow Corn, Potato Espuma(not your Charlie Trotter espuma), & Tarragon that I have to say was one of the best lobster dishes I have EVER had. It easily gets an OMG star(or two!).Liz, in a brave move, opted for the Pan-Seared Line Caught Tuna with Caramelized Cauliflower Puree, Crispy Kale, Golden Raisin Aigre- Doux & Black Olive Gastrique...and she loved it. The wine was a Serrau "Sciala" Vermentino 2016. 

Next, I had the Burgundy Escargots & Sardinian Fregola which was yummy but huge(so I had a take-away for lunch the next day). Will went for the Steamed Wild Swordfish with Cuttlefish & Scallion Salad, Forbideen Rice, Chorizo Confit & Grape-Almond Foam which he thought was a bit odd.  Liz chose the Braised Beet(a veggie main actually) with Cauliflower Horseradish Puree and Beet Demi-Glaze that she truly was in awe of. This was all paired with an excellent Barbera d'Alba 2016 from Ruvei.

The "main" courses were all superb with Liz having the Slow Roasted Chicken Roulade with Duck Confit Mousse, Chickpea Panisse Cake, Glazed Cippolini Onions, Celery Root Puree and Black Truffle Jus. Will went with the Coffee & Cardamom Crusted Venison, with Koji Fermented Farro, Parsnip Butter Sauce Verjus. Will thought it was a tad salty, but not the case with my Roasted Pheasant in Lavender Honey Glaze with Bitter Greens, Ginger Cake and Huckleberry Gastrique.  The excellent wine was a Portuguese Tempranillo 2016 "Art Terra" from Amphora in Sao Miguel.

We opted for one cheese course to share and they were all novel and delish:

Providence -North Carolina goat, Mimolette -French cow,  Lu Tur-Italian goat,sheep cow and Blu di Bufala Italian buffalo, while the Quadrello di Bufala was Italian but not Buffalo!!

Poire Bordelete pear cider was a sparkling break with acidity that cut the cheese.  These came with kiwi curry jam and vadouvin, sour cherry and blackberry lemon grass(did I get that all right?)

Dessert--a must!

Corn & Berries is a Ginger Semifreddo with Blackberry Veil, Sweet Corn Cream, Caramel Powder, Blackberries and Brown butter. If that doesn't sound amazing try the Apple Tarte Tatin with Caramel Roasted apples, cardamom pudding in a candied puff pastry! Yes it's deconstruction in work, so maybe you want more guts, then have the Rocky Road with Chocolate Sable, Vanilla Marshmallow, Praline Crunch and Cocoa Nib Tuille. They're all wonderful and then came cookies of Chocolate Sable as well as Lychee Marshmallows and Frozen Lime Mousse to send us home.

This is a real amazing journey for folks who love to dine and the staff makes the journey 1st class the whole way!