It took us almost half a year to get to HOOK, Georgetown's newest hot and heaving dining spot overseen by brilliant young chef BARTON SEAVER (ex of Cafe Saint-Ex) (www.hookdc.com). Hook is definitely worth the visit if you can overcome the whole Georgetown scene, which I personally detest. Parking is a BIG issue and I recommend a 630PM reservation which allow you to pull up right in front at 625pm and obtain the parking permit (there are now parking machines rather than meters here) on M Street for up to 2 hours at 25cents per 15mins or $2.00 for 2 hours. You need only go back outside once during your visit to obtain extra time as fees are required until 10PM!
That said, once inside, my only complaint is the noise levels which rise pretty high once the place is full (that was by 730pm); and I am confident it is full every night! The long narrow restaurant has a bar/high tables at the front with a separate dining room at the rear facing an open kitchen and another room upstairs. The arched ceiling may not help the noise factor, but there is a warm overall feeling to the spot with rough white stucco-like walls dark wood tables (again with those silly gold mats) and very comfy beige leather chairs and banquettes; overall a very modern almost sleek 60's feel due to the light fixtures.
While I am sure many come here for the bar scene or to be seen, we came for the food and left totally satisfied on that account. The menu is simple and highlights fresh FISH starting with sashimi like portions of CRUDO which are $3 each (about 2-3 small bites apiece) or 3 for $8.00. I tried the MACKEREL with Rosemary, Orange Syrup & Chive which was, as expected, an intensely fishy fish. The superb BOQUERONE or ANCHOVIES in Olive Oil and fried Celery Leaf are the simplest and purest, while the WAHOO takes top prize with its HAZELNUT and Lime with coarse Salt creating an almost margarita-like feel to the dressing.
The appetizers are big on fresh salads or combinations thereof with the "signature" (how I hate that term) GRILLED CALAMARI and WARM POTATO SALAD with Basil Walnut PESTO offering up tasty whole pieces of small squids (a bit more pesto would have been welcome) and a heaping portion of the potato salad. A couple of us at the table were underwhelmed by the dish. The GOAT CHEESE STUFFED PEPPERS with Walnuts, Turino Pepper puree and Tomato were called very spice, but really did not pervade more than a couple of seconds on intensity. I think I would have overall preferred just to try all the other crudo options or perhaps one of the interesting (beet) salads.
The wine list overseen by sommelier Francesco is large and varied and gives you many possibilities. We started with a FERRATON GRENACHE BLANC Cotes du Rhone 2005 which exhibited hints of terroir along with acidity from the citrus; a great crudo accompaniment. Next came a wonderful ANSELMI GARGANEGA "San Vincenzo" 2005 from Veneto and our third white was a CORTESE di GAVI 2006 from PIO CESARE (piedmont) which was crisp cold and perfumey. There are so many good whites (and reds too) it is very hard to decide). The bread is also a treat with amazingly fresh TOMATO FOCCACIA and a wonderful Garlic Aioli spread that is neither too thick or creamy, but very tasty and intense. Our second batch of bread was an even better treat with the excellent tomatoes saying goodbye and the Foccacia coming with FRESH ANCHOVIES on top!
As I said, FISH is the word here and the entrees all excelled in the quality and preparation. We listened to our server David and to Chef Barton and ordered four wonderful dishes. The least exciting (tastewise, although the fish was superb) was the MAHI-MAHI with Risotto (which was also excellent). All the other three dishes exhibited much more excitement on the palate from the POLLOCK with CORN-BACON-CHORIZO Stew and Smoky Potato Chips to the amazing BLUEFISH with POTATO-ZUCCHINI Cake and that same yummy BASIL WALNUT Pesto. I think the top hit was my CORN CRUSTED TAUTOG(a sea bass also called wreckfish) with a CABBAGE CARROT-HERB Salad and STEWED SHELL BEANS. Every bite of this dish and indeed, most of the others offered up a new mouthful of pleasure.
We switched to an amazing red wine made by a friend of Francesco's named Elisabetta for FORADORI wines. It was a 2002 TEROLDEGO ROTALIANO that was like drinking a Barbera with a bite. The wine is medium bodied and at an amazing $18 on the menu is a STEAL! It goes great with most fish, especially the involved preparations we had (although perhaps not as well with the lighter Mahi-Mahi).
You can't skip dessert when HEATHER CHITTUM is the pastry chef and there are some new winners here. While the BROWN BUTTER ALMOND CAKE with Black Raspberry Creme Fraiche Sorbet works together, on its own the cake lacks enough moisture. The CHOCOLATE PUDDING PIE with Bitter Chocolate Sauce and Chantilly is great for chocoholics who like PUDDING as that is really what is it. The PEACH CROSTATA with VANILLA Ice Cream and Blackberry Coulis is very sweet, but a good fruit option, while my LINGONBERRY LINZERTORTE will go down in history as one of the top desserts around; indeed I told Heather herself it should be on the National Preservation List! The wonderful torte with its beautiful lattice is accompanied by TALEGGIO CHEESE Ice Cream (with a Port Wine Reduction) that makes the dish the winner it is. The cheese along with the fruit and excellent pastry creates a combination worth of any top prize! What a great way to go home after such a superb seafood celebration!
