While we returned from our month in Europe earlier this week, I still have on amazing report to give. This very special place can only accommodate overnight guests as the road to the palace at the top of a mountain (well, big hill at 500 meters=over 1500 feet) is long, dirt, and one lane! So you must contact me to book the hotel for you overnight and have the amazing opportunity to visit and dine at PALAZZO TERRANOVA.
Restored to its original 18th century splendor less than a decade ago this magnificent villa sits atop the Apennine foothills on the Tuscan border of Umbria. The closest cities in Tuscany are medieval Cortona & Arezzo to the west and in Umbria to the east are Perugia(only 45 minutes away) and Gubbio. The closest small towns are Morra and Ronti with Citta di Castello 20+ minutes east. If you are in central Italy this luxurious palazzo is a destination not to be missed for its beauty and views atop the mountains, but also for its fine food and excellent service. There are only 10 rooms, yet the hotel offers an infinity pool, gym, spa services and even babysitting amongst many other amenities nearby (horseback riding,golf, tennis). Each beautiful room is named after an opera and quite beautifully appointed down to the wonderful Bulgari soaps!
The dining room, as I said, is open for lunch and dinner for hotel guests only (breakfast is included and is served in the breakfast room or on the terrace--we enjoyed ours as the morning fog rolled in below us and the sun shone above; we felt as if we were in heaven!) and is simple but has an antique feel with candelabra, huge fireplace, large tables and chairs. The night we stayed the hotel was almost full, yet only 5 tables were used accommodating four couples and a family of 6. As we went down to supper just before 8pm, we sat on the magnificent terrace to catch the setting sun's rays sipping Campari & Tonic with the local snacks of Umbrian PECORINA and honey (to dip it in) with fresh local ALMONDS.
We moved inside, and as always, not pacing ourselves ordered antipasti, primi and secondi. As we saw the food coming in monstrous portions around us, we quickly called over the maitre d' Giovanni and begged him to cancel one of our secondi (entrees) which we decided then to split.
We ordered a bottle of ROSSO di MONTEFALCO 2004 from CAPRAI having enjoyed this Umbrian red so much the previous days. This particular version has a 70% Sangiovese (the grape of Chianti) mixed with 15% Sagrantino and a 15% blend or Merlot and Cabernet, making it a big bigger than some other Montefalcos. A gorgeous amuse of FIOR di ZUCCHINI FRITTI (fried Zucchini flower in batter) came in a tomato & black olive sauce and was stuffed with a creamy rich and totally decadent MOZZARELLA & ANCHOVY filling. This amuse did give us an idea of what was to come, and we were happy we had chosen red wines and then proceeded to cancel one entree...as BIG & FILLING seemed to be on the menu here. When I say "big & filling," I must also add rich and also qualify that this was all top quality local food much of which was actually grown right in the gardens of the palazzo (which even sported several alpacas roaming nearby!).
We had always enjoyed the amazing "burrata" here in DC flown in from Italy to Dino's Restaurant, but we were not ready for the same day fresh and blow your mind BURRATA CON VERDURE GRIGLIATE e PESTO that arrived for both of us. The mozzarella was the finest ever and of course, HUGE as well. The soft center filling was melt in your mouth delish, and the accompanying grilled zucchini, eggplant and veggies were lightly drizzled with a tasty pesto.
Will opted for the TAGLIATELLE all'UOVO con RAGU d'ANATRA which we know and love at home as Homemade egg tagliatelle with duck ragout, and while it was tasty, it needed just a bit more ragout. My SPAGHETTI alla CARBONARA con SALSICCIA d'UMBRIA was heavenly and truly one of the best Carbonaras ever (the other having been the one we tasted on our last night in Rome!) It was sprinkled generously with local Umbrian sausage and wonderful pieces of local bacon. Rich, creamy, and total overload is the only way one can describe this amazing preparation. We asked for a long rest as began to enjoy our second red, a truly magnificent and velvety NOBILE di MONTEPULCIANO (another great wine town that is close by over the Tuscan border) SIMPOSIO 2001 from Angelini. This is a wine to buy and drink now or later as the balanced tannins make it just one of the best red wines around!
We took a long break before our entree arrived, the daily special of STRACCETTI di MANZO al ROSMARIO con CIPOLLE ROSSE di TROPEA, a saute of beef loin strips scented with rosemary and braised in the famous local red onions of Tropea with red wine and a hint of raspberry. The onions were sublime as was the sauce, only the meat suffered a hint from being a bit overcooked and dry; a solution which we should have anticipated and asked for the meat medium rare! I know that we were so full, that we could not even think of dessert, but Will asked for a simple "bite" of chocolate and received a huge plate of fresh chocolate hunks!
Incidentally, I must add that while we were dining downstairs, Samuel was doing the same thing in our room above. After a swim and a bit of relaxing ion the afternoon, the chef came to the room at 6pm to ask what Samuel liked to eat. About an hour later, Giovanni returned with a cart full of treats including the most gorgeous local garden field greens salad loaded with fresh tomatoes and yellow and red peppers (all from their gardens). His entree was a perfectly and simply prepared fillet of fresh fish (we never did find out what kind) over a bed of fresh sauteed French beans (although, these were clearly Italian and local!). He was one very happy camper with his room service and so were we. We all hope to return to PALAZZO TERRANOVA someday and I hope that I can help you ALL get there as well!
