We are back in DC and up and running and had a superb first night out since our return from Europe last week. We had heard that Chef Michael Hartzer previously of Ray's the Classics, Citronelle and the Inn at Palmetto Bluff (in SC) had recently taken over at Viridian (www.viridianrestaurant.com) on 14th Street at P (next to Studio Theater) and we needed to catch up with him and the restaurant as well. Still very white and clean with varying displays of gallery artwork, it gives one a very crisp feel to dine there. Although, the video display now running (over and over and over) above the bar of a house demolition is hardly art to me.
That said Viridian has some great specials on wine on Sundays (ignore the website where it says Sundays & Mondays) as well as discounts for folks in the local zip codes as well on certain nights, not to mention a 3 course prix fixe from 530-7pm. Ask in advance for days and times as they seem to fluctuate.
We started with a Sardinian FUNTANALIRAS VERMENTINO di GALLURA 2005 that was tart and refreshing and a nice pairing with some of the slightly spicy starters.
A brilliant amuse in a champagne glass was GAZPACHO of HONEYDEW with Cucumber, Arugola, Creme Fraiche and Tabasco for a bite. We were ready to go on to more exciting palate pleasers: The SCALLOP ROMESCO is a huge hit with SPICY PEPPER PUREE, thrilling SHERRIED HZAELNUTS (that add wonderful crunch) & Burnt Scallions. The huge "PHO" (play on the Vietnamese style) CHICKEN SALAD is a slow poached chicken with WATERCRESS, SPROUTS, RADISH in a LIME CILANTRO Dressing that is a tru "pho" save for the lack of noodles. This salad could easily be a lunch-size entree, but we gobbled it up with no avail.
The TARTARE DUET has a cylinder of TUNA with Ginger, Tobiko & Cucumber and its partner the BEEF has TARRAGON MUSTARD SAUCE and a boiled Quail Egg served with pita-type crackers and flatbreads that are yummy too. The tartare can be requested as ONLY tuna or ONLY beef as well.
Having just returned from Italy it is hard to ignore the deconstructed WARM CAPRESE TART which has superb tomatoes, ricotta, bufala mozzarella over sauteed RAPINI with Chili Flakes for that slight punch. We were all thrilled that Chef Hartzer is not afraid of spice and uses it so well.
We moved on to a MONTIRIUS VACQUEYRAS 2004 with low tannins and minimum chalk making this an excellent medium to full bodied red. Incidentally, there are many excellent wines in the higher 20$ to mid-$40 range, but the $50-$60 options offer some real treats. We had a COOPER-GARROD FINLEY 2002 California SYRAH that would work with any full bodied dish (meat or fish) which is what Viridian offers; there are also two vegetarian entrees which make a nice treat for you non-meat & fish eaters!
I must also mention the side dishes which are a treat in themselves and not to be missed: CARAMELIZED SALSIFY with COGNAC GLAZE is enough to excite me just in name, but if you try it, you may never eat vegetables another way again! The SAUTEED WILD MUSHROOMS with MANCHEGO CHEESE & Smoked Paprika is also excellent, but unquestionably the biggest hit was the CLASSIC GREEN BEAN CASSEROLE made with French Haricots Verts and baked over with a creamy sauce (remember those cans of Campbell's Cream of Mushroom soup your mom used!), Brandy and topped with BUTTERMILK FRIED SHALLOTS, a true treat and BIG improvement over the Durkee Canned Fried Onion Rings!
The entree portions are large, satisfying and oh so tasty: RARE Rack of VENISON is grilled on the Chop with a GIN & JUNIPER VERMOUTH Jus (ala martini) and served with ALMOND, TARRAGON, Shaved FENNEL & Orange Salad. The STRIPED BASS has CELERY and SMOKED Crunchy BACON with a slightly spicy LUMP CRAB ARABIATA, Celery Root Coulis and Crispy Capers making it a wonderful combinations of flavors and textures. The SNAPPER is beautifully prepared as a skin-on fillet with
a STIR FRY of OYSTER & BEECH MUSHROOMS, "Thai" peanut, SPROUTS, COCONUT MILK and JALAPENO Coriander Puree all reminiscent of Chef Hartzer's take on "pad thai" but again without the noodles.
While I might avoid the sorbets at dessert the ITALIAN CITRUS CAKE with Orange Cream and Fresh Oranges is a novel and exciting treat; not too sweet or cloying, yet refreshing and quite different. The BLACKBERRY CRUMBLE will be shortly renamed as it is more of a trifle than a crumble, rich with whipped MAPLE CREAM, Vanilla Ice Cream and Fresh BLACKBERRIES, it is nonetheless tasty. The PEACH & CHEVRE TART is a Chevre based cheesecake with delicious grilled & glazed peaches and BASIL Anglaise, making it, too, another novel and tasty dessert. Viridian rings up a victory for all of us! and we can't forget the excellent service we received from MARY!
I forgot to mention the focaccia comes with yummy olive butter and a roasted potato and garlic puree.
