My last night in Chicago was at SEPIA several blocks from the opera house and the Loop and a great dining destination with a Michelin star that shines. Restaurant Week in Chicago lasts several weeks and there was a $55 four course menu (wine pairings for an additional $45) that will really impress anyone. DEAL!
I arrived early after the opera at about 515Pm and was escorted into a bveuatiful room with exposed brick and a huge antique service elevator on one wall with enclosed verticals of wines on the other wall and four huge Murano crystal chandeliers surrounded by smoky gauzy cylinders that were odd, but novel.
The menu lists Andrew Zimmerman as Executive Chef, but I was told by the manager, Christopher, that the kitchen is run by Chef Kyle Cottle who used to cook at the now defunct Blackbird (just blocks away) that we always loved. I told my beyond awesome server, Tangie, who had worked there for 15 years, that I was in no rush and wanted to relax on this rainy chilly evening. A loaf of bread arrived warm with cultured butter (I am so glad it was cultured after just seeing the opera!) and my first wine arrived a Hirsch Gruner Veltliner Hirschvergnugen from Kamptal in Austria that had crisp apple and pepper notes. It was paired with my first course of Beef Tartare au Poivre (FB photos) which came with caramelized onion, the most amazing beef fat toast and dehydrated horseradish; a dream dish for sure.
My second course was the Charcoal Grilled Octopus with Pomegranate, Parsnip puree, Chili Crip and Cabbage which has to be one of the most amazing octopus dishes ever.
The wine pairing was a smooth 2019 Pegaso "Zeta" Garnacha from the Sierra de Gredos in Spain. I saw there was a Rose of Cab Franc on the menu and Tangie immediately brought over a taste of the Couly-Dutheil Chinon Rose 2020 from the Loire that was super fruity yet very dry as well.
I was surprised when Christopher returned to announce there would be some extra courses! First came the Roasted Scallop Motoyaki(smoked egg) with Pickled Ramps, Espelette & Parmesan Crust which was extremely rich and decadent. The Vouvray from Vigneau-Chevreau Close de Rougemont in the Loire was an amazing pairing as it was almost a demi-sec to cut the dish's intensity. While I devoured the yummy dish and its ramps, I noticed the lady at the next table order a Dirty Ramp Martini and was so upset I had not started my meal with this amazing idea...perhaps I will mix some up with the ramps I got this week at the Farmer's Market!
My main course was Glazed Duck Breast with buckwheat crepe filled with fried rice and black garlic hoisin sauce that came with pickled carrots and radish and was simply beautiful (as was everything). The duck skin was crispy and salted to perfection as I had requested medium rare and it was ideal. The wine was a Varner Los Alamos Santa Barabara Pinot Noir with an earthy nose and lots of terroir.
My dessert choice was the Mandarin Creamsicle with Malted Vanilla Sponge Crumble, Mandarin Sherbet and Winter Cirtus, but the team insisted on sending out the Pink Peppercorn Pavlova with Coconut-Passionfruit Sorbet, Candied Ginger, Hibiscus and Swett & Salted Almonds. I am not a meringue fan, but the dish was superb, but I barely had more than a couple of bites. The Creamsicle was divine and I managed to finish several bites of that paired with the Borgo Maraghiano Moscato DOCG La Caliera that Christopher sent out to pair. Pastry Chef Erin Kobler is a magician and the entire team at Sepia are beyond brilliant. I will definitely head back when I am anywhere near the Lyric Opera in Chicago!
