Last night we returned to CITYZEN at the Mandarin Oriental Washington (http://www.mandarinoriental.com/hotel/535000428.asp) after a way too long two year hiatus, but then the pricing of this top rated posh spot makes it a place one does not go to regularly (unless you are related to Bill Gates!). These days the menu has three options, a 3 course a la carte at $75.00, a 6 course vegetarian tasting at $90, or the Chef's tasting menu at $105 for 6 courses (both tastings offer wines by the glass at an extra $75).
Two of us could not resist the tasting menu, while Will went for a la carte.
We started with a glass of Chatogne-Taillet Brut Champagne from Merfy which is a small grower (Will got a kick out of this term) making a super yeasty bubbly that we all adored.
Chef Eric Ziebold is having lots of fun with his amuses these days and they were all superb starting with the MUSHROOM FRITTER over Mushroom Puree and Truffle Oil, continuing with the GREEN EGGS & HAM (which is one of Samuel's favorite books these days!) which is a magnificent assembly of QUAIL EGG with Ham Salad with Leek Puree. Himalayan Rock Salt is shaved over this to replace the egg yolk, and it has that sulphery smell of yolk! A third amuse was a LOBSTER BROTH which really needs to be renamed as it was thicker and richer than broth, but not a bisque and had a wonderful cappuccino-like froth on top served in an espresso cup.
One of these amuses (I forget which) was for those of us on the tasting menu, while Will received a yummy creamy rich OLIVE OIL CUSTARD instead (I had to taste!).
The breads came and I think this may be the only sore spot at Cityzen. While the bread was very good, the choices SOUNDED better than they tasted: Bacon Cheese Potato, Guinness (beer) Rye and Country all were fresh, but did not really taste much from their named ingredients. Of course, the big winner at Cityzen is the little jewelry box presentation of the magnificent mini-Parker House rolls with the main course! Our first wine was a Grenache Blanc/Gris 2005 from Domaine de la Dourbie in Coteau de Languedoc which has a huge acidity but lots of flavors which went very well with our fish courses. Will started with
the PAN ROASTED ROUELLE OF SPOTTED SKATEWING with Meyer Lemon, Spanish Caper, and Cardoon Gratin which was rich and creamy from the cardoon (thistle-related) gratin and sauce. His entree was the excellent RHODE ISLAND MONKFISH STEW with Caramelized Celery Root, York Apple, Braised Salsify Applewood Smoked Bacon and Matelotte Sauce.
Our wonderful main menu started with CARPACCIO OF ATLANTIC FLUKE Fuyu Persimmon, Puffed Japanese Sweet Rice, Micro Peppercress and Pomegranate Vinaigrette which was wonderfully crunchy due to the rice and full of so many flavors it was hard to experience them all, but we tried. Next came GRILLED ATLANTIC DAY BOAT SCALLOPS with Belgian Endive Marmelade, Citrus Velouté and Lobster Oil which is easily one of the top scallop dishes around these days. As we finished our fish we started on a bottle of PODERI ELIA Barbaresco 2000 "Serracapilli" which was a bit tight at first so we let it open up; after 30 minutes, we opted to go on to another red, and save the Barberesco for our cheese course as it was just sooooo big.
Our tasting continued with POLLY-FACE FARMS POUSSIN with Dried Currant and Italian Pistachio Mousse, Parsnip Purée, Sugar Pie Pumpkin and Swiss Chard Rouelle. The chard was done up like a nori wrap and the mousse was more like polenta in consistency, all of which made this dish a great experience.
We moved on to our second red, a 2005 DOMAINE de PIAUGOT Sablet from Tenebi which is made from the Cunoise varietal, a rarer but not expensive and very excellent wine that goes with just about everything.
BRAISED KAGOSHIMA KUROGE BEEF SHORTRIBS with Marinated Beets, Cipollini Onions, and Caramelized Salsify was our big meat course and the meat was superb, perfectly cooked off the bone, moist, tasty and not too large either.
As most of you know, before coming back to DC, Chef Ziebold was Executive Chef at the French Laundry in Napa, and it is clear that his style, flair and multi-course meals are a direct result of that experience. I can easily say that it is like having our own version of the Laundry here in DC (especially since our meal ended up being 12 courses including the amuses and post-desserts!).
The cheese course from the trolley was loads of fun and offered up some of the best variety around: Latur from Lombardy (Italy), Fromage de MEAUX, a superb triple creme goat cheese from KUNIK, New York, Brascinella Staginata, a cow HOULIGAN from Connecticut, Caschel from Ireland, PECORINO di Nocce, a crunchy and wonderfully nutty tasting ROOMANO 5year aged GOUDA. Will munched on some English DORSET in honor of his homeland. The plates came with Apricot and Anjou Pear
Marmalades which were yummy as well.
Our dessert was a CHEESECAKE CHIBOUST with Soft Graham Cracker and Passionfruit Sauce, perfectly light and in no way over-filling. Will's super dessert was a MAPLE & PECAN TARTE with Sugar Pumpkin Ice Cream, but as I mentioned, it was nowhere near over. A tasty glass of MOSCATO d'ASTI came as we moved on to the post desserts of HUCKLEBERRY Sorbet in Peanut Tuille with Peanut Butter Bavaroise Creme!! and then the PINEAPPLE SORBET with Spiced Rum Granita. Almost four hours after we arrived the mignardises of Orange Jellies, Hazelnut Chocolates and Caramel Butter Cream Macaroons arrived before we headed home very
happy.
Incidentally, kudos to the entire staff under manager Mark Politzer who are friendly, attentive, kind and helpful at every turn. I also must note that sommelier Andy Meyers, who has one of the most varied wine cellars in town, is always helpful and will not hesitate to recommend an excellent $40 bottle as well as one for ten or twenty times as much!
