Ok, I know you think we must be insane, but we did go out again for the THIRD tasting dinner in eight nights this past Wednesday. We figure that it's winter, quiet and just the right time to plan these dinners and enjoy them with friends and clients alike. I do promise, no more tastings for some time!
This time is was TABERNA del ALABARDERO (www.alabardero.com) downtown DC's bastion of gourmet Spanish cuisine. It has been years since we have been there, and we were a bit concerned that it might have lost some of its cache with the recent departure of longtime chef Santi Zaballeta. WRONG! His sous chef DANI has taken over and is handling the kitchen wonderfully, and the excellent caring and courteous staff make it simply a treat to dine here. Add the elegant warm decor that really can't be described as other than Old World cushy and you have a fine night out with great food:
CAVA BRUT 1+1=3 was our starter sparkling wine and it went wonderfully with a superb selection of FOUR TAPAS 1)Tortilla Espanola was a traditional Spanish omelette cut into squares, and was quite filling, so I left this to move on to the 2)Gambas al Ajillo which were spicy and loaded with garlic--yum,yum 3)Fried Croquettes Balls of Cheese, Potato and Serrano Ham were creamy, but petite, but the winner was 4)PULPITO a la GALLEGA, gorgeous whole baby octopi with baked potatoes, extra virgin olive oil and sweet paprika
By this time we had moved on to the first white recommended by Gustavo and he chose brilliantly: 2006 NORA ALBARINO from Rias Baixas had the creamiest flavor I have ever had for an Albarino and was perfect with all the seafood as well.
Our next course was ENSALADA de ENDIVAS con PALMITOS, Mousse de CARBALES y GRANIZADO de Miel made up of the tastiest (and in no way bitter) Endive with Hearts of Palm and a light and not intense mousse in the center made from Spanish Blue Cabrales cheese mixed with Honey Ices. The slight chill from the mousse would make this a really great war weather dish as well, but also its lightness worked within the frame of a huge meal like ours.
Next came CARACOLES con CHIPRIRONES SALTEADOS, Hojaldre Salsa de Setas y TInta Negra which was a brilliant assemblage of sauteed snails (escargots) with tender circlets of squid lying on a ring of mashed potatoes with a Lemon & Mushroom Emulsion Sauce drizzled with Black Squid Ink, on the side was a small puff pastry. The sauce was stupendous and the combination of escargot and squid simply a work of genius.
The next white wine was the 2005 ABADAL BLANC from Pla de Bages made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Picapoll and was actually lighter than the Albarino and most akin to the Sauvignon Blanc, although not to citrusy. Honestly, I would have reversed the two whites as the next course was also quite rich in texture: ESPARRAGOS Rellenos de TXANGURRO y ESPINACAS Salteadas con Crema de BOGAVANTE sounds exotic and was another tasty creation of Asparagus and Basque Style Crab Meat, Sauteed Spinach and Lobster Bisque all enclosed in a Fried Egg Crust (think Egg Foo Young) with some of the bisque drizzled over the top. Form the description, I was expecting a soup or bisque, which would have been too heavy; this was just perfect and with two spears and some crab not that huge.
You thought the entree was next? Well, you are partially correct. Upon arrival we looked at the special tasting menu and saw THREE "main courses." Will was confident this meant we were to choose. WRONG! First came a small and excellent plate of PAELLA de MARSICOS with mussels and clams, simple yet infused with saffron rice and merely a tease for our palates.
The second main course was HALIBUT en SALSA VERDE con ALMEJAS a beautiful fresh fish so moist and served in a Garlic-Parsley Sauce with tasty small Clams.
As we finished this we asked Gustavo to find a tasty intense red wine to finish with and he scored yet again with a Rioja 2001 REMELLURI RESERVA made from Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo that was intense, not tannic and rich enough for our entree, but also fine enough to enjoy between courses.
The third main course was an amazing ENTRECOT con RULADA de RABO de TORO that was a Strip Loin with an Oxtail Roulade served in a cylindrical cake-like form with a crunchy crust and moist rich inside; asparagus appeared on the side as well. The loin seemed hard to cut, but was oddly as tender as possible in the mouth--thank goodness for those sharp Laguiole knives, but the star on this plate and of the meal for me was the Roulade!
We enjoyed a break before the first dessert came in the form of FRESAS MACERADAS, Bizcocho de Vanilla y Helado de Yogurt, a refreshing dish full of marinated strawberries so sweet over a small piece of vanilla sponge cake and Yogurt Ice Cream. We all enjoyed a wonderful glass or two of CASTA DIVA COJECHA MIEL 2005 an superb sweet Alicante Moscatel that I have always enjoyed. It was perfect with the final TARTA GUADALQUIVAR, a traditional Chocolate delight from Seville.
We are grateful for our kind server Martha, who never seems to feed us too fast, and was always there to explain everything, and the whole staff at Taberna who made this Spanish tasting a real treat.
It was also nice to see retired opera star Mattiwilda Dobbs at the next table, as she has always been a fixture in the Washington vocal scene, but has not been out much lately due to a bad back (she is having surgery this month and we all wish her a speedy recovery!).
