Last night I returned to THE LEDBURY in London, (www.theledbury.com)
located in Kensington very close to the Portobello Road Market and
Knotting Hill Gate, the gastronomic home of my favorite chef in the
UK, Brett Graham. It was almost one year to the day when I last wrote
that I would head directly here on my next visit to London; I did. I
sat right down to a glass of BILLECART-SALMON Brut Rose Champagne N/V
and perused the menus as my "head"waiter Stephen (who also hails from
Australia like the chef and has worked there 3 years) explained that
the folks I met last year had mostly moved on. While sad, I must say
that this staff is some of the best in the business, truly deserving
of the 2nd Michelin star earned just months ago (which I suggested at
this blog a year ago!). Indeed they deserve THREE stars as the service
is truly the best in London (eat your heart our Gordon Ramsey!).
Everyone is kind, considerate and SMILES because they really DO like
their work and those they are serving as well.
My first amuse arrived and was a burst of flavor in the mouth of
SMIOKED COD ROE on a large thick POTATO CRISP with Malted Vinegar
Powder. I was ready for the tasting menu (cost 75 pounds--about $120)
with the paired wines (total with menu 120 pounds-about $190) which is
one of the best deals anywhere for an establishment of this quality
and fame. The uber-Michelin starred chefs of today spread themselves
thin with dozens of locations, and the level of quality can't POSSIBLY
be maintained. Chef Graham has opened a small pub nearby in west
London's Fulham called the HARWOOD ARMS, and left control to one of
his chefs from The Ledbury; it is already the first pub in the UK to
earn a Michelin star! Congratulations!
Stephen had read my review from last August and arrived with the Warm
Bacon & Onion Brioche that I so adored. I also tried the Malt Grain
Bread in a small tower like shape that was great, but refrained from
tasting all the breads knowing so much was to come. The second amuse
was very similar to one from last summer: CEVICHE of SCALLOP with
KOHLRABI, that Frozen HORSERADISH Powder that I so adore, Seaweed Oil
and new to the dish-tiny pearl-like round apple jellies. This is one
of the best ceviches of scallop ever and it's due mostly to the powder
which sadly can't be bottled to take away.
Wine number was a GRUNER VELTLINER Federspiel 2009 from Fritz-
Hirtzberger which unlike other GruVe's had a huge green (almost sour)
apple tart flavor that worked perfectly with the tang of the
horseradish and the vinegars in the salad to follow: Heritage (what we
call heirloom) TOMATOES with GREEN TOMATO Juice, GOAT's Curd and Herbs
was one of the best tomato salads on earth. Made from TigerStripe,
Oxheart, a small flayed red cherry with it's skin rolled back on top
and small gelatinous (agar) pearls of tomato. The "vinaigrette" was
light and made from green tomato juice and a small cylindrical tulle
was filled with goat cheese and sprinkled with dried olive. Small
shoots and adorable red and gold edible miniature marigolds made a
flame tulip like coloring on the plate.
The first fish was a divine Flame Grilled MACKEREL with the most
beautiful and crispiest of skins with Pickled Cucumber, Celtic
Mustard, Avocado Puree and Shiso. The dish was sprinkled with tasty
fried shallots, shiso micro greens (which are truly odd in that the
upper leaves are rounded and the lower ones jagged) and a purse (akin
to an Asian cold rice paper) made from Cucumber stuffed with Mackerel.
I loved the small slash of mild mustard across the top of the plate
for color, but also for a tangy taste to the fish. Each bite was
another trip to heaven. Here, the French sommelier, Johann (how's that
for a French name?) outdid himself and impressed me most with a
TERLANER 2009 Classico from Alto Adige in Italy, known for its light
and fruity wines. The blend was 70% Pinot Grigio with Sauvignon Blanc
& Chardonnay and blew me away with its flavors, dryness and perfection
in pairing with the fish and all the ingredients. Indeed, I think
Johann and his staff have one of the hardest job with each dish
containing so many ingredients! I wish I could buy this wine at home
as well!
I started a chat with the couple at the next table and their 12 year
old son, who was so well behaved and raved about each bite. My next
course was his appetizer, and he told me I was in for a treat with
Saute of CHICKEN WINGS with Milk Skin, White Carrots, Girolles and
Parmesan Cream. He was dead on. When we think of chicken wings at
home, just ranch dressing, spicy sauce and lots of glop come to mind.
This dish took the thickest part off the wing and laid it over the
milk skin, a kind of skim from the top of the boiled milk that had
hardened a bit. It was the only thing I could have done without in the
entire meal, simply because it was an odd taste, even though the color
was beautiful. The French girolles mini-mushrooms were ecstasy in my
mouth and the dish was creamy on the side with the parmesan cream and
a light emulsion of the carrots. Alex, the young man at the next
table, smiled and said, "I told you so." A superb steely KUMEU RIVER
ESTATE Chardonnay 2006 from New Zealand had the perfect finesse
which grew creamier in the mouth as it warmed up.
I always like to be treated special, nbut when the extra course from
the kitchen arrived, I knew I would have to forego the cheese trolley
I had been eyeing all evening. ROASTED TURBOT FILLET was on the menu,
but had licorice (liquorice in the UK) and they had asked me if I had
any allergies or dislikes at the start. I guess Chef wanted a
challenge, so he modified the course to suit me with a FENNEL Puree
and a voluptuous VELOUTE of ELDERFLOWER with those amazing GIROLLES as
well as Roasted MUSSELS and a breaded mussel for crunch. The wine was
a light bodied and suitably fruity PINOT NOIR called GRUYERE (odd to
be named after a cheese) from MacForbes 2008 in the Australian Yarra
Valley. It was the only wine I did not finish all night (I'm sorry, I
too fond of bigger traditional Burgundies and Pinot Noir).
Back on the tasting menu was the ROAST SEA BASS (another superb fish
from the south coast of England) with a dark TRUFFLE PUREE and
CAULIFLOWER PUREE which on the plate created a ying-yang like black
and white design with Parmesan GNOCCHI and SEA VEGETABLES. The gnocchi
was divine, but the crunchy seaweed-like veggies were a novelty that I
adored. Johann moved me right to the Burgundy Pinot I desired with a
full bodied FIXIN "Crais de Chene" 2007 from Rene Bouvier. I asked him
jokingly if the winemaker was related to the late Mrs. Kennedy. He
smiled and shrugged, obviously being too young to have a clue what I
was talking about. It sucks to feel old!
The one meat course was perfect-sized with two medallions of BEST END
and SHOULDER of New Season Lamb. The loin medallions were simple,
tender and lovely, while the crispy crunchy shoulder was more like a
confit. An AUBERGINE slice was glazed with Sugar & Garlic and served
with Aubergine (Eggplant) Caviar and a Spinach Puree and sauteed
SPINACH provided more delicious veggie input. A CHIANTI RUFFINA 2007
was again the perfect wine, but this time I asked the ever adorable
Johann where the lamb came from, assuming it was British. He smiled
and said, the best lamb now comes from the French Pyrenees, as this
did.
A slew of desserts followed with the pre-dessert billed as OLIVE OIL
PANNA COTTA with Diced Peach, Peach Gelee, Peach Sorbet and Rum
Crumble. It was so refreshing, I could have had a second, but
refrained as the BROWN SUGAR TART with GOOSEBERRIEs and Stem GINGER
ICE CREAM arrived. The very large pour of dessert wine was almost too
much (they knew I liked dessert wines) and I was surprised when Johann
told me the sweet sherry from PEDRO XIMEMEZ came from their Australian
makers in the TURKEY FLAT of the BAROSSA Valley. I shared tastes with
some very nice folks nearby and we were all great friends soon.
I did indeed miss my adored Saint Marcellin from the cheese tray as I
saw it "ooze" by on the trolley, but when right to the mignardises
which are always a treat at the Ledbury:
Dark CHOCOLATE & Eucalyptus Truffle is a salute to the chef's homeland
ELDERFLOWER Marshmallows are fluffy but not too sweet
Passion Fruit Jellies are for the non-chocoholics
EARL GREY MACAROONS are one of my favorites
but the new WHITE CHOCOLATE MACADAMIA NUT Truffle was so soft, smooth,
creamy and yummy that I may now have a new first place mignardise.
I said I would come back to the Ledbury, and indeed I will again and
again...
ALAN now in Leeds, Yorkshire with the family.
