Our last night in Leeds was reserved for the 4 adults and the poshest
place in town...ANTHONY's in Boar's Lane.
We tried desperately on arrival to get more background on Anthony
Flinn (or is it Flannel), but everyone was mum. I thought he had
worked under Heston Blumenthal at the Fat Duck; our server Xavi (who
also didn't answer me when I asked if he was a manager or server or
what?), seemed to have no idea except that he had been at the world
famous El Bulli for several years. Not only was the staff secretive,
they just seemed very lapse about giving us any information.
There are about sixteen or so tables in the basement with basic decor,
nice linens, quiet atmosphere and a feel of elegance, with sadly some
awful muzak playing Tina Turner and the likes all evening.
We convinced Will's sister Edna and her partner Sue to take a chance
on the multi-course tasting menus with wines. The menu is 65 pounds,
which is a steal for London, but very high in Leeds...but still a
DEAL. The wines are an additional 45pounds...and the pours were very
generous.
We got all excited as we sat down upstairs to a bottle of Veuve
Cliquot Rose and some olives as we perused the menus. We headed
downstairs for our 4 hour extravaganza and entered the depths on
Anthony's.
Our amuse was a CRAYFISH with CUCUMBER & LEEK VELOUTE which I could
have easily eaten as an appetizer...a great start...A warm mini-loaf
of bread arrived with three butters: salted, parmesan and toasted
beurre noisette (hazelnut) which was the oddest of the three. The
butter in the UK is SO GOOD, there really is no need to add anything
to it; it shows off the local producers.
RISOTTO of White ONION with ESPRESSO & PARMESAN FOAM was heavenly with
a small layer of tasty black espresso at the bottom and the white foam
on top. It came in a white curved beehive shape bowl that was open
only on our side which was adorable. All the French china was indeed
very classy and elegant. The wine was an ALBARINO Riax Baixas from
CAZAL CAEIRO which had perfume and fruit at first and became creamier
as it warmed. We all adored it with the risotto and without!
The next course was ROASTED SCALLOP with a Rice Cocoa Cracker, Apricot
Gel, Pomegranate seeds, saffron and couscous-another totally brilliant
combo and the wine was another winner-PETIT CHABLIS which warmed and
became a bit spicier as well. You may notice from here on that I omit
the specifics on the wine. Our server Xavi did not really want to
linger at the table while I wrote, so he said he would write it all
down and give it to me when we left...but that's another story for
later.
SOUS VIDE MACKEREL was a tasty fish with Liquorice, Mackerel Tartare,
ENOKI Mushrooms, Roasted ARTICHOKE, a tart acidic BEETROOT cut in mini
squares and an ONION Wonton. I was wary about the liquorice, but they
said it was very mild....we did not taste it at all! The FLEURIE Pinot
NOIR "La Madone" from Georges duBoeuf was a super pair as the fish and
beet were so intense. It was soft, a bit spicy and had a huge full
bodied finish with long skinny legs.
The last red wine was a TEMPRANILLO La Mandia (?) and when Sue said
she really did not want any more red, they immediately poured a glass
of American Chardonnay. That was good service. The meat course was
SADDLE of LAMB with SWEETBREADS, Lamb Jus, Pistachio and Smoked SPRAT.
Yes, the small little sardine like fish. The sprat was filleted and in
the corner of the plate was the entire skeleton and head deep fried.,
standing up erect in a small dab of potato. We ate the skeleton whole
and it was salty and yummy, but I felt the fish itself was an odd
taste along with the lamb, which was divine.
Sue told us that Jamie Oliver had just opened in Leeds around the
corner, so we have a new spot for next time, and when you get to then
end, you must decide whether or not Anthony's is for you.
