We went to Johnny Monis' gastronomic Greek temple KOMI
(komirestaurant.com) once before the renovation and changeover to only
the tasting menu and enjoyed it quite much (save for the tarama;
whipped too much!), but after returning last week for the multi-course
tasting menu at $125 (accompanying wines $68) we decided this tasting
was one of the tops in town! He is a star chef winner and well worth
the expense!
We had great service from our main server Kyle and the sommeliers Kat,
but it seemed that everyone works as a team at this intimate place;
there are only about 7 tables for four and 7 for 2, making the
capacity about 40! It was one of those awful humid, hot (well around
90) evenings, and we appreciated the glass of Ode Panos Spiropoulous
Organic Brut Sparkling made from moscafiero grapes with big apple and
unripe pears lingering afterward in the finish. First amuse (where the
amuses ended and the meal began was impossible to tell!) was a Steamed
BRIOCHE with Greek YOGURT, TROUT ROE and a sprig of chive that was
(like the brut) ever so refreshing. Next came the SASHIMI TRIO-
Kampachi (yellowtail) with chive, Liramassa (amberjack) with Armenian
cucumber and Red Snapper with Sumac, Onion & Caperberry which was
fleshy and full of intense flavor and had a crunch from the spice. All
were superb, but we began to notice a trend of oversalting. The salt
used was a tasty sea salt which worked fine, especially on the
kampachi, etc, but at times we felt it a bit overdone.
Maine DIVER SCALLOP was next with Australian Truffles, Mustard seed,
Dill, Toasted Almonds and Pickled Beets with Fresh Wasabi. This dish
was a revelation in the mouth and had many exciting elements,
including intensity from both the beets and wasabi!
The next white was a PONZI ARNEIS 2009 from the Willamette Valley in
Oregon, a grape not seen too much in the USA and always a welcome wine
with flavorful foods.
COLD SMOKED SALMON BELLY with Candied Pine Nuts and Shiso Sorbet was a
refreshing mouthful that had a blast and CRISPY SPINAKOPITA was
another in the mouth explosion of this traditional Greek dish turned
totally around here. It was loaded with creamy melted feta and dill
and was superb, although a bit more spinach would have been nice.
Heirloom TOMATO SALAS with MIZITHRA Cheese (a Greek sheep) made in
house was very soft and tasty (like a farmer's cheese). Added cucumber
was nice, but that salt was overdone again.
Watch out Ben's Chili Bowl up the street when your Chef of the Year
winner down the block starts making HALF SMOKES with RAMP Relish and
Watermelon Creme Fraiche! This bite in a bun would have me coming back
to KOMI regularly if they had take-out!
We moved to a TXAMIN ETXANIZ "Txchakolina" style wine from Spain
Getaria that I discovered a couple of years ago and I call salad wine
as it works so well with spice of vinegar as it has a slight
effervescence!
Roasted DATES with MASCARPONE, Olive Oil & Sea Salt (too much again)
were excellent, but all I could think of was the salt on the pretzels
at the beach boardwalk!
Our first red wine was a MENCIA with thick legs, medium body and a
great perfumey nose called LUNA BEBERIDE 2008 "made by Finca La Westa
in Bierzo. This was served with divine TAGLIATELLE (that Will felt
needed to be warmer) with Blueberry, Sausage and Blue Foot & Maitake
Mushrooms. There was a slight spiciness to the sausage which was tamed
by the blueberry in the most perfect of ways.
Our main red was a DOMAINE MERCOURI 2004 from Ilias in Western
Peloponnese that would do battle well with any quality red, proving
Greeks can make quality red wines with intensity that would also drink
alone well.
It was served with the "main course" of Braised GOAT SHOULDER with
thick-style puffy pita, EGGPLANT Puree, and a plate of condiments:
Oregano Salt, Tzatziki (chunky creamy cucumber), Hot Sauce, Pickled
Cabbage and Red Onion Mustard (that was more of a red onion marmalade
with mustard seeds!). This most rustic of dishes was as about as Greek
as one could wish with so many exciting touches as well. The different
bites with each condiment made for lots of fun and tastes, and we
adored the crunchy skin so much we almost fought over it!
A glass of Oregon Baldecker Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir from Willamette
Valley as well was an extra treat we ordered as we wanted to rest
before dessert.
The cheese course was oddly LA TOUR cow-goat from Piedmont (Italy, not
Greece) which was soft and mild with Baby Fennel Marmalade and salted
breadsticks.
Salted CARAMELS and other jellies of Orange and Cherry came as well
and I just had to laugh at all these "salted" extras! The BAKLAVA was
crispy walnut phyllo tulle and served with Virginia Honey Sorbet; this
was a revelation in the baklava filed and was served with a divine
SAMOS NECTAR U.W.C.S. 2001 Muscat loaded with honey and acidity and
just totally perfect for the dish!
LOUKOUMADES or Greek fried honey donuts came with Micro BASIL YOGURT
GELATO and Blueberry-Blackberry Compote which was another wonderful
treat that we shall remember.
We were given some jellies to take home and Orange Saffron Lollipops
for the road as well.
While the salt was heavy, the food was indeed divine and we shall
return to KOMI for sure to eat like the ancient gods of Greece!
