Roberto Donna has finally come back to intimate fine dining in DC and
GALILEO III at 600 14th St, NW (the home the late Butterfield Nine &
Garfinkel's) looks as good as the food tastes. The decor is classy,
refined, elegant and it has been lightened up and opened up from the
smaller rooms that existed before. The bar is on the street level with
the restaurant dining both up and downstairs. Our table was right next
to the kitchen door and we were treated to many visits by the chef who
comes out to check on his clientele regularly. No problem here, as the
staff is talented, knowledgable and attentive.
The menu offers a choice of seven appetizers, seven pastas (includes
one soup) and ten main courses. There is something for everyone from
the old Galileo-lovers who miss those dishes to the new Galileo-goer
seeking new innovation. The menu can be ordered in only a prix fixe
format of $55 (two courses plus dessert), $72 (three plus dessert),
$89 (four plus dessert) or as Chef Roberto says $125 for as many
courses as you can manage until you say stop!
We ordered a bottle (the last one from the cellar) of ELIO ALTARE 1995
LANGHE ARBORINA from Piemonte which was drinking oh so smoothly and
had a medium to full body that had served its 15 years of aging to
perfection. We were upset that this was the last bottle so we moved on
to a 1993 vintage which was an amazing experience as it changed with
each taste. From a bit spicy in the mouth and more full bodied at
first it became smoother and changed with the various foods. What fun
wine can be, especially when it is of the highest quality, and Chef
Donna knows how to serve wine as well as superb cuisine.
The breadsticks and breads came with a ricotta based pesto to dip in
and Samuel was in heaven along with his Shirley Temple! We also adored
the breadsticks which we missed so much from Galileo II that the great
pastry chef Laurie Alleman had started making.
CARNE CRUDA all'ALBESE is on the mean and is a hand chopped Catelli
veal top round tartare served with lemon juice and Ligurian olive oil.
On the menu it is topped with celery leaves, Parmigiano Reggiano
shavings, thin mushroom slices, artichoke chips and parsley puree. We
got the cheese, mushrooms and an added (hold your breath) treat of
WHITE TRUFFLES! Yes, they are back in season and taste superb. Wait a
week or two and they should be in full bloom. BUDINO di PARMIGIANO is
another starter that will amaze you as it is like a thick souffle but
looks like an espresso....the pudding of cheese is topped with a layer
of Burrata cheese (which was not available back in the days of Galileo
II), cream of porcine mushrooms and sliced black truffle...we all
swooned.
Looking for seafood to start, head for the POLIPO, a grilled octopus
with fingerling potato salad, black olives, fried capers and salsa
Verde that will melt in your mouth...no fork needed to cut this, let
alone a knife!
Samuel was in the mood for penned and got it his favorite was
BOLOGNESE and it was divine.
I headed for the Zuppa di CASTAGNE, which I crave every fall as this
chestnut soup with "tatra" timbale, foie gras, mascarpone cheese,
pancetta and duck gizzard is probably the best preparation you will
find anywhere this side of Paris!
PAPPARDELLE al CINGHIALE is one of Chef Donna's stalwart dishes and
the pasta can't be made better in town, not to mention to wild boar
ragu! If you want a fall pasta choose the CAPPELLACCI di ZUCCA which
are small ravioli stuffed with butternut squash puree with "mostarda
di Cremona", melted better and sage sauce with crumbled Amaretto
cookies. Only Samuel did not like it, as he said it was a bit too
sweet for him (imagine, a child not liking sweet!).
For the main courses I can't help recommending everything, but we went
for the birds the other night. PICCIONE was a roast SQUAB breast with
squab meatballs in a divine huckleberry sauce, potato alla parmigiana
( a souffle like square) and sauteed Brussels sprouts. The lighter but
just as heavenly FARAONA is a cylindrical roulade of GUINEA HEN breast
stuffed with guinea hen sausage, braised salsify, cabbage with
pancetta in a mascarpone sauce.
We must also give credit to two familiar faces that handle the
reception and floor. On arrival we saw our dear friend Karen Shannon,
who has graced so many podiums in DC (including her own) and know is
at Galileo III (mostly at lunch), and Chef Donna's charming and
lovable wife, Nancy, who keeps everyone in line!
The pastry chefs, Wendi James & Joshua Jarvis, get credit as everyone
loved the TORTA di CIOCCOLATO, A dark rectangle with pistachio cake,
candied lime, basil gelato and coconut sorbet to the GIANDUJA
SEMIFREDDO with dragee Alba hazelnuts, cinnamon sauce and fresh banana-
coffee-rum froth. CROSTATA di MELE is an apple tart with honey roasted
pecans, caramel gelato, cider jelly and parmesan foan, a real autumn
treat. Alas, while Samuel did not care for the orange-fennel sorbet,
he did wolf down the CHOCOLATE ALMOND cookies that came afterwards. We
also loved the simple hazelnuts in dark chocolate which we munched as
we rolled out the door!
GALILEO III, we will soon be back to thee!
