Georgetown's NEYLA knows Middle-East cuisine with flair

Last year at our favorite food event we had the pleasure of meeting Chef Abdul Hash Housh of Georgetown's Neyla (www.neyla.com), and while we tend to avoid dining in Georgetown, this was the second night in a row we were thoroughly impressed in the neighborhood. We had bought the dinner at Chef's Best Auction and saved it for my birthday, and each bit was indeed a treat.

Kudos to Nabil our server who seemed to anticipate our every need and showed up within seconds with ARABESQUEs for us all, the house drink made with Absolut Citron, Triple Sec and Infused Lemonade. It was a not at all sweet martini that I would return to regularly. Mana'ish, the toasted pita bread with seasoning came with Lebanese Yogurt and Olives that got us munching; we had no clue what was to follow, but it seemed UNENDING!

The MEZZA or appetizers included Hummus, Fried Kibbeh, Tabbouleh, Kabiss, Chicken Shwarma, Garpe Leaves stuffed with Cinnamon Rice, Lahmajeen (best described as a pizza-like pita with lamb spread on top), Cheese Rolls of Manchego & Goat in Puff Pastry Cigars, Lebanese Sausage, Vegetable Kibbeh, Gambas (shrimp) & Cilantro, Kafta Hara (ground beef with shaved fried garlic) and the best Baba Ghanough we have all ever had in our lives! Highlights were the Baba Ghanough, but all the other dishes shined as well. The Gambas were less buttery or oily than the tapas or Italian style we usually get-here with a sauce that had more body than simply hot butter or oil.

The Kibbeh came with an Indian-like Raita of Cucumber/Yogurt/Mint and the fried garlic on the Kafta Hara was another novelty and tasty treat.

Neyla has outdoor space on the corner of N and Wisconsin, but opted to sit indoors in the Casbah-like dark draped interior with huge bar, mirrors and nice atmosphere.

Kasara Lebanese White wine came with the mezze and red with the main courses...they were both quite tasty and came from the Bekaa Valley. We were even more surprised when the huge platter with so much more arrived, albeit we were grateful for the long rest Nabil gave us! BEEF KABOBS, CHICKEN SHISH TAOUK, BEEF KAFTA, LAMB CHOPS and the most tender LAMB KABOBS all came atop Grilled Tomatoes and Green Sumac Onions with huge bowl of the tastiest RICE PILAR with Slivered Almonds. For taste, GARLIC WHIP is served with the meat and works to perfection. It is made by adding egg white and ice to the garlic mash to make a meringue like dip that is divine.

We were stuffed but gave in to after dinner drinks or coffee as we knew dessert was at hand. The platter included BAKLAVA and other Turkish Pastries, ASCHTA (a fluffy concoction like rice pudding) with Banana, and KANAFFE- a semolina, cream cheese, simple syrup and rosewater mix. I was even more surprised when a small CHOCOLATE MOUSSE FONDANT arrived with Vanilla Ice Cream on Fried Dough with a birthday candle. It was quite good as we each took a small bite. It was delivered by some guy who just seemed to crash our table and try to chat. We had no clue who he was or where he came from, and he was simply quite obnoxious. Will stepped away to ask Nabil to get rid of him and he actually did leave, but came back again! Well, at least he was just chatty and silly and not rude or anything.

This year's birthday gets an A+ and Neyla easily gets top rating on my list for Middle Eastern cuisine. Bravo to Chef Abdel Hash Housh!

you can get a good catch at the SEA CATCH in G'town

Last Monday we visited the SEA CATCH Restaurant on the Canal in Georgetown (www.seacatchrestaurant.com) and while I have not been there in ages, I was surprised to find the quality of the food at the highest of levels. We took Samuel with us as it was an early birthday celebration of mine with the entire family (we celebrated the next day--to be reported soon...).

As always Samuel had the FISH & CHIPS and while the fried fish was indeed superb, he seemed to prefer only the fries on this outing. Will started with Purita's Famous GAZPACHO with Crab which was good, but not a bowlover creation. My OYSTER CEVICHE was a great idea to dress up the bivalves and keep their flavor. They were simply dressed with tomato, cilantro and lime and were delish. So much so that we ordered some more raw oysters: Chesapeake, Deer Creek (Washington) & Kusshi (British Columbia); all were superb.

A bottle of VERDEJO from Jose Pariente "Vinedos Dos Victorias" 2007 was a great option with our food as well as it goes with spice from the gazpacho, the oysters and more.

Will opted for the GRILLED SWORDFISH plain with Vegetables as he is dieting, and loved it. I adored the WILD VIRGINIA BLUEFISH with Parsnip Puree, Red Pepper Coulis and slivers of Fried Onions. It was a great preparation of an oh-so-much overlooked fish.

As it was my birthday some desserts came out and we nibbled only a bit. Samuel loved his Lemon Sorbet and the WARM CHOCOLATE CAKE was intense, so I stopped at two bites. The CREME BRULEE was extremely good with a nice crunchy top.

We went home full knowing that SEA CATCH is a good choice if you are in Georgetown, like nice decor (there are tables on the canal) and want a wide variety of seafood choices.

y'all gonna BRAVO for BONNELL's Fine Texas Cuisine in Ft. Worth

While Fort Worth's downtown revitalization over recent years has brought many fine dining options, as well as lots of great casual ones where you can enjoy a great meal before the opera, many of the quality spots are located in the outer reaches of the city (which is very spread out). In researching, I discovered that award winning chef JON BONNELL had set up his restaurant, BONNELL's FINE TEXAS CUISINE (www.bonnellstexas.com) about 10 miles from the city center where I am situated. I go there at 5:45pm in about 12 minutes by interstate from my hotel, making this an easy trip (perhaps not so easy during a weekday rush hour) and was back at the opera house downtown by 735pm! It was well worth the trip.

Located at the intersection of I-20 and Bryant Irvin Rd (#4259), little glamour greets you as the feel is truly roadside locale. Inside the lighting gets dim again (I guess this is a Texas thing?) as you make your way through numerous "rooms" divided by 8 foot high walls in the overall space twice this height. The walls have open space so you could reach through to a table nearby and hear conversation, but it serves as a nice dividing spacer. On these ledges are small children's cowboy boots filled with dried flowers. The walls have lots of wildlife photographs and high up on the ceilings you can spot Texas flags and art (cowboy and longhorn tapestries) as well as a huge elk head (this was over 12 points!); the chandeliers are made of elk horns as well. The reason for this is that Bonnell's is truly a game destination as you shall see.

The linens are clean and white and each place has a large thick brown leather serving plate, which remains until your main course comes. Few places in this area are dressy, and indeed, I felt overdressed in a suit jacket and pants (albeit no tie); well, it had gotten chilly and was 73 degrees all day! Some folks looked nice, but there were shorts, sneakers, and of course, several cowboy hats, as well.

I decided to start light and switched from my first leaning (the Venison Carpaccio with green peppercorn dressing) to a superb SHRIMP & REDFISH CEVICHE made with Farm Raised Texas RedFish and White Shrimp with Lime Juice, Tomatoes, Avocado, vey mild Chilies and Crispy Tortilla Strips with a perfectly round lime slice on the rim of the martini glass. It was ideal, and Chef Bonnell truly does stress TEXAS's wonderful local foods; almost everything on the menu is home
grown in the state.

The main courses were so varied from elk to mixed grill to venison loin to kangaroo (also local) to squab (from Europe; I think this was the only entree not from Texas) that it was very hard to decide. I opted for the signature dish of the restaurant: BANDERA GRILLED QUAIL from Diamond H Ranch with Jalapeno-Garlic Cream Sauce, Herbed Mashed Potatoes and Spicy Parmesan Cream Spinach, You can order the dish with one tiny bird for $21, or two for $26. Unless you are not hungry, the latter is the better deal without doubt. The delectable birds were grilled to perfection with crunchy seasoned skin that was divine. The jalapeno-garlic sauce was light, but quite spicy, but easily countered by the milder mashed potatoes. The spinach was not the creamy type we are familiar with from a steak house or the frozen food section, but whole leaves just sauteed and then dressed with a light cream and parmesan pieces; it was not real spicy at all, just divine. There was not a bit in this dish I did not enjoy and thrill over. The "bread" comes with the main courses here and is a small tray of warm puff- pastry like biscuit triangles that are each about three small bites. While buttery, flaky and delicious these were fabulous for wiping up the very little jalapeno-garlic sauce that remained after I finished the yummy birds.

I ordered a glass of WILLAMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS 2007 Pinot Noir and it arrives in a large Schott crystal (albeit restaurant style) Burgundy glass that was nice. The wine was slightly intense and worked fairly well with the dish, but perhaps a slightly fuller bodied wine would have been better with the spices.

I had to look at the dessert menu which was indeed fun with many options including the Dublin Dr. Pepper Float (think root beer float with Dr. Pepper instead), but was immediately drawn to the TEXAS CHEESE PLATE with Berries and Crostini. The long narrow plate came with nine small tastes which was just perfect. The berries were tasty, but I skipped the buttery crunchy crostini as they really did not complement the cheeses which were all from local farmers in Texas:
Cociotta- a semi-hard cheese with a caraway flavor
Sage Derby-a very mild sage version of the semi-hard cheese
Blanca Blanca -a soft earthy cheese that was one of my favorites
Swiss--which was indeed as Swiss tasting as it gets
Smoked Gouda-a soft, tasty Texas version of the Dutch
Most of these cheeses were semi-hard, but ever so creamy in the mouth
Goat-a mild creamy one
Brie- a ripe very runny version that was also a delight but not too strong
Horseradish Cheddar -was the only one I did not like as it seemed to be lacking in both horseradish and that intense cheddar flavor
I love Blue-a mild blue that was soft and slightly creamy...a perfect finish to the meal.

The only problem of finding these delightful new places to dine is that each year I return for the Fort Worth Opera Festival, it is SO HARD to choose which ones to return to, and which new ones to try!

Ft. Worth's MERCURY CHOPHOUSE makes more than meat

I tend to avoid chop and steak houses, but yesterday someone told me to head to the MERCURY CHOPSHOUSE in Sundance Square (301 S. Main St) in downtown Fort Worth before attending the opera. I thought, "$40 steaks before the opera....INSANE." But I tried it and was very happy to see the MERCURY CHOPHOUSE featured much more than meat. Located in an historic building it has a dark clubby feel with lots of mini-booths of leather for two as well as large tables in an area separated from the slightly noisy bar by a low wooden wall. The ceilings are exposed and the walls have some old photos of downtown, mirrors and not much more. The lighting was a bit too dim for me at 6pm when it was sunny and 90 degrees outside.

My server Linda was a bowl full of bubbles. Water came with a huge loaf of tasty homemade sourdough bread. and I ordered the OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER to start. There were a dozen plump Gulf oysters with spinach, cream sauce, a bit of spice and topped with a crunch bread crumb topping. My FRANCISCAN SAUVIGNON BLANC was as grapefruity as a wine can get, and was a nice size Texas pour as well.

I opted for the Mussels main course which was over a pound of Prince Edward Island bivalves (that's about 24 in the shells, plus another 3 or 4 loose ones in the sauce) in a spicy Tomato-Herb sauce with Cherry Tomatoes and Parmesan Cheese on top. The sauce was thinner than a marinara, but still slightly thick. There were two huge slices of the buttered toasted Sourdough on the side that were just begging to be used to mop up that sauce.

It was funny that the bus boy put the plate down and said, "here are your scallops!"

I finished with a small salad special of FIELD GREENS with HEIRLOOM TOMATOES, MOZZARELLA and Balsamic Vinaigrette. As a subscriber to the opera, we get 18% off plus free dessert at the ChopHouse! So I tasted the GRAHAM CRACKER CRUSTED LIME TART which was very rich and with a thick marzipan-cream-like topping. After two bites I finished off the macerated berries in the sauce on the side and called it a meal. All this for $44 without tip! What a deal.

Dupont Italian Kitchen (DC) does Italian cuisine decent

Last night we took Samuel and joined some friends for a true neighborhood meal at the DUPONT ITALIAN KITCHEN (1637 17th St, NW - www.dupontitaliankitchen.net) where we had not been for at least 3 or 4 years.

It was a pleasant surprise as we quaffed a decent quality BELLERUCHE Cotes du Rhone Red 2006 from M Chapoutier for under $30/bottle which is a wine that can go with pasta/meat and fish as well. Samuel had the requisite SPAGHETTI with MEATBALL and Tomato Sauce as he quaffed a Ginger Ale and munched the soft bread dipped in lightly seasoned olive oil.

The soups are tasty and we tried the MINESTRONE and the slightly spicy and flavorful GAZPACHO.

Main courses were all appreciated and extremely reasonably priced in the low to mid teens from PENNE with CHICKEN to GRILLED SALMON with Capers & Lemon Sauce (which turned out to be a creamy, but tasty lemon sauce), GRILLED TUNA with TOMATO SALSA and my excellent VEAL SCALOPPINI with Prosciutto and Mushroom Brown Sauce over Pasta. The sauce was not too rich and the prosiutto was a bit peppery making for a nice blend of flavor and seasoning. The server was willing to quickly switch pasta for vegetables at no cost making the dining experience easier for the non-carb folks.

We were all too full for dessert, so we headed home happy to know the food quality can be good when the dishes don't cost $20 or $30 or more!

Adams Morgan's BLACK SQUIRREL Bar has brass

Our old buddy Gene who had been one of the owners and chefs years back at SAVEUR in Upper Georgetown opened THE BALCK SQUIRREL in Adams Morgan last year (2427 18th Street NW - www.blacksquirrel.com) and while it is more of a bar than a dining destination, the food is quite good. The tables are all bar type with high chairs or stools, so it's not for the elderly or handicapped, especially since the bar is a up a flight of steps. The decor is eclectic with everything from lots of squirrel photos and drawings to posters of Farah Fawcett; the music is 80's softer disco, at least it was Sunday from 6-8pm.

Beer is the specialty here and the beer menu is indeed astounding; the wine menu gets little thought and I was wishing I could get something better that an FAT BASTARD Rose 2006, but I was barking up the wrong tree (at the squirrel, I guess!). The food is well prepared and portions are huge with prices quite reasonable. Samuel ordered the kid's portion of FISH & CHIPS (while there is not children's menu, the staff is most friendly and accommodating) whic was moist tilapia in BLACK SQUIRREL's AMBER BOCK BEER Batter and served with a remoulade that packs a huge kick. Beware the generous dipping portion as you might be tempted to go for a BIG dip and end up with a bit too much spice; I loved it though. Gene added some battered carrots which were divine, but Samuel was interested only in the tasty fish and spiced fries, which he declared needed no ketchup (he got a small taste of the remoulade and asked us to remove it from his plate!).

Will and I both started with the creamy rich CHILLED BEET SOUP which had pickled veggies (I think it was cabbage?) which added a crunch and flavor; it was perfect in the 90+ degree heat we had yesterday! Will's diet led him to the BALSAMIC POACHED BEET SALAD with Thyme Garlic Vinaigrette and subbed some Grilled Chicken for the Bacon Toast & Goat Cheese. My Prince Edward Island MUSSELS in AMBER BOCK CURRY CREAM with Thyme, Bacon and Garlic were divine and enough for two folks to split! They were accompanied by a cup of traditional BOARDWALK FRIES which were slightly spicy, very yummy and did indeed have a little crunch
vs. that Boardwalk Fries limpness as well. Samuel helped me devour the cup, again with not a single tad of ketchup!

We went home very full, knowing that while Black Squirrel may not be a family spot and is indeed more of a bar, the food we saw going by from the burgers, to mac&cheese and more all looked so tempting that we must go back again!

ESCA offers excellent eating near Times Sq NY

Last night I popped up to NY for a quick visit and decided to try ESCA, the Italian seafood bistro at 402 W 43rd St. (very close to Times Square - www.esca-nyc.com). Almost 9 years old, this not too exciting design-wise spot is the creation of Dave Pasternack, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich. While I am not a "name" chef fan, these guys have created and maintained a gem for sure.

The walls are unadorned except for light scones and cubby holes filled with upright wine bottles (I guess they don't mind storing all the wine incorrectly!). As I sat down I noticed a small party in the corner window table headed by none other than Tony Bennett, who seemed to be a regular and enjoying himself quite alot.

I sat down and perused the menu with a glass of CINQUE TERRE Bianco "Marea" (blend of Bosco(grapes, not the chocolate sauce),Vermentino and Albarola) 2007 from Bisson in Liguria which had mineral intensity, a lasting finish and piles of flavor. A piece of BRUSCHETTA came with CANNELONI BEANS & MACKEREL that was divine as were the soft small black fleshy olives resting in oil (which I later used for the focaccia).

I finally decided on the $75 tasting menu which was a bargain to boot when you consider how much I got, The only problem is that they allow no substitutions (and the whole table must order it if you are a group), and I really wanted the grouper instead of the swordfish....ESCA is famous for its CRUDO or raw fish selections and they all sounded divine. the first course of the tasting is one chosen by the chef and I was happy to get the HALIBUT BELLY in Extra Virgin
Sunflower Oil; rich, tasty and fleshy fish that would compete with sushi any day. They offer an upgrade as well for something like $25 extra if you want more crudo...I chose not, knowing how much was to follow.

BURRATA on CROSTINI with GRILLED SPRING RAMPS with ANCHOVY VINAIGRETTE was almost perfect. The bread was slightly burnt and was really anegative for the excellent cheese. I always feel buratta does not need bread...indeed, the ramps were an amazing pairing and the anchovy flavor not too intense for just the perfect dish (if it did not have the corstini!).

The wine prices by the glass are in the $12-24 range which seemed pricey to me, but then I discovered that each is really a carafe of almost two full glasses, making it a steal in NYC! My second wine was a CIAFRE ILLUMINATO from Abruzzo 2006 (a blend of Trebbiano, Passerina and Riesling). The "sommelier" (she was a person who served the food and wine, and took the wine orders) said the Riesling was minimal and the wine was an almost pale straw yellow with lots of flavors as well. The wine was divine with the GAMBERONI, Three medium-size head-on Santa Barbara SPOT PRAWNS with a Prosecco Vinaigrette. The prawns were halved and the meat came out easily and was quite sweet and tasty. The wine was also superb with the FUSILLU with MUSSELS & CLAMS in a Sauce of PEAS & GARLIC CHIVE, with lots of peppery aftertaste to boot, which the wine worked brilliantly to equalize.

As I mentioned my main fish was SPADA alla SICILIANI or swordfish with Beans and Broccoli-Rabe, Olive and oil in a thick stew-like sauce. The meat was grilled to perfection and served on top. The big fish deserved a red, so I had a VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO "Semonte Alto" 2005 from Venturini in the Veneto region (all the wines are Italian if I recall). which was another great choice for the fish and heavy dish.

I mentioned to my server that I am not a chocoholic, so when the dessert (chef's choice) came I had to admit I was a bit miffed with the albeit three large scoops of sorbet (kiwi, coconut-lemon and pineapple-passion fruit) with large waffle tuilles. The best part was the biscotti, cookies and brownies that came after. I would have appreciated a real idea of what the chef can do with pastry or dessert though.

I know that when I have to be near Times Square, Esca is worth the 5 block detour!

DC's ROSA MEXICANA, ok, but not perfectly rosy

Last night we had an early dinner after a show with Samuel and headed across the street to ROSA MEXICANA (www.rosamexicano.com on F St, NW at 7th St.) and had a pretty enjoyable meal. Our server FRANKIE was a gem from the start. Will asked if the ZARAPE DE PATO appetizer which had three chiles (meaning spicy) next to it was indeed very spicy. Frankie came back with a couple of small tortillas in a basket and some of the sauce, a YELLO PEPPER HABANERA CREAM which indeed was spicy, but not intense or lasting at all. I think that Rosa's THREE chile marking might get lowered abit for those enjoying spice and flavor! The ZARAPE which Will did order was a Layered Duck Tortilla Pie with PULLED DUCK and the same sauce...rich, tasty and yummy. We actually started with some of the traditional Margaritas, Will choosing the Tradicional made with silver tequila, lime and agave nectar and I opted for the Unica with 1800 Reposada Tequila and Grand Marnier. Both were delicioso, but I fear they add more and more ice each time I return and the drink has shrunk to only several ounces for $7.50-$10 (and up for the higher brands!).

Samuel ordered from the Young Amigo Menu and was thrilled with his CORN CRUSTED CHICKEN FINGERS & SWEET POTATO FRIES. He did not touch the fresh buttered corn off the cob, but gobbled down all three of the huge pieces of chicken and most of the fries. This came with a scoop of MANGO SORBET which was gone just as quickly. A great deal with a soda for $7.50!

My appetizer was a superb SOPA DE TORTILLA made with Pasilla Chiles, Grilled Chicken, Avocado, Cheese, Crema and Crisp Tortilla Strips. A perfect dish as the rain started and the temperature dropped.

Will's main course of BEEF ENCHILADA with MOLE de XICO had a tasty sauce made from Raisins, Plantains, Hazelnuts, Pine Nuts and Mulata, Ancho and Pasilla Chiles. Sides of superb Refried Bans (sprinkled with soft white cheese) and Tasty Rice would fill anyone up. We had also ordered the appetizer of ENSALADA de VEGETALES a la PARILLA hoping that Samuel might indulge in some of the grilled Zucchini, Hearts of Palm, Artichoke, Avocado, Corn or Chile Rubbed Red Bliss Potatoes in a tasty Roasted Tomato Oregano Vinaigrette over field greens, but he was not interested...so we ate a bit and took the rest home. The dish also had 3 chiles, which is a total mis-labeling!

A superb MALBEC TERRAZAS de los ANDES 2007 from Mendoza has a slight earthiness which worked well with the spices. Indeed Rosa Mexicana gets kudos for the reasonable wine prices from $22-30$ listing eight reds and eight whites!!

The disappointment of the night was my TABLONES, highly recommended by Frankie; a huge 18 ounce portion of grilled boneless BEEF SHORT RIBS in MESTIZA SAUCE (Tomatillo/Tomato & Chipotle) with RAJAS or slow cooked Mexican peppers with onions. The meat came out very very VERY dry and I had to ask for extra sauce, but could only eat about 1/2 of the portion as it was just so overcooked.

Too full for dessert we headed home knowing that if the kitchen had only cooked those ribs a bit less on the grill after braising them for so long, the dish would have been sublime. I thought that someone might have removed them from the bill...but no luck.

I have always enjoyed Rosa Mexicana, but I think she will get a break for the time being.

so sue me cause I love SUSHI A GO GO in NYC

Saturday evening I was headed to a late curtain at the Metropolitan Opera and wanted a lighter meal and had that old, "I don't eat leaven stuff on Passover dilemma." I thought sushi--without rice--and headed across the street (yes, again) from Lincoln Center to SUSHI A GO GO. I consulted with my friendly server who said COLUMBUS SASHIMI...three pieces each tune, yellowtail, salmon and whitefish. Brilliant. I started with my regular SEAWEED SALAD made from Kukiwakami, but this time there was a tad too much of the dressing and the last bites were a bit overdressed. Nonetheless, I adore this simple, light, vegetarian dish and it always makes me happy. The Sashimi plate yielded up superb tasty fleshy whitefish, salmon and tuna. Only the yellowtail seemed odd as it came in such small almost dicey pieces.

I met the nicest family from Italy next to me and she told me about her uncle's restaurants in the northeast region near Trieste---one day maybe.

I sipped the excellent GREEN TEA and decided to finish with one more appetizer dish: NEGAMAKI of BEEF with ASPARAGUS, which is under the salad listing, but is quite a huge dish. There is a yummy huge pile of fresh field greens in the center surrounded by 8 pieces of large or smaller paired asparagus pieces, each about an inch and half long which are in turn wrapped in seared, but fully cooked beef. It was a tasty dish wish a yummy sauce having a sweet and sour essence, but lighter, like a soy-ginger dressing.

I went to the opera full, but my pocket wasn't emptied too much as the prices are quite reasonable for this generally overpriced block! And the opera was superb as well!

goin' to GUANTANAMERA (NYC) where the cuisine and scene are cooking

Last night I returned to Guantanamera a 939 8th Ave (56th St) - www.guantanameranyc.com where I have always had a god and reasonably priced meal when near Lincoln Center or the theater district. Since it was Passover, I kept the meal grainless and had my 2 favorite dishes there.

ENSALATA PALMA REAL, a salad of mixed greens, artichoke hearts and avocado with a tasty vinaigrette, and CHURRASCO con CHIMICHURRI Sauce which is simply one of NY's best hangar steaks grilled and served with the tastiest of sauces. It now comes with rice and beans which was quickly whisked away whn I said I could not eat that on Passover and replaced with fried plantians--YUMMY!

The wine was a warm medium bodied FEBRE MALBEC from Argentina, the home country of owner Mario Zarate who has turned Guantanamera into a destination.

The bar was full at 530pm and the restaurant the same by 7pm. Everyone was happy and I look forward to returning again and again.

take the voyage to VOLT in Frederick, MD and you'll flip!

We had the pleasure of meeting Chef BRYAN VOLTAGGIO when he first returned to the Washington are several years back to open Charlie Palmer Steak. If you read my reviews then, they were always raves as he continued to garner awards and was only in his 20's!

He recently returned to his hometown Frederick, MD and opened VOLT (www.voltrestaurant.com) which has truly electrocuted the food world of Frederick. Located in a beautiful historic district mansion with a large number of dining areas and options, I can't imagine anyone making the trip there and not coming home with the opinion that VOLT is definitely one of the premier dining spots of the Washington area. It would definitely win my award for FINE DINING!

The dining rooms are reasonably comfy with nice chairs of white leather and dark wood, the music a bit loudish odd (some thumpy noise bothered me at the start) at times, but never awful or blaring so that the conversation is disturbed.The waiters sport lace dark reddish brown sneakers (Keds?) and the upper echelon staff (captains, etc) are in suits and shoes. The walls are white, there is some artwork on some walls (I couldn't' see any from my seat), but what mattered here more than anything was the sublime heavenly quality of the food. As I mentioned there are numerous options and be sure to make your choice clear when you reserve your table as NOT all the rooms serve all the menus. The regular menu is an up to 4 course dinner with all items a la carte. There are tasting menus of 5 and 7 courses as well as a vegetarian option (served only at the kitchen tables I believe) and finally TABLE 21 where four folks are served a 21-course tasting; I can't wait to go back for this!

Three of us went for the 7-course($89) with paired wines ($45more), which is an amazing deal for seven LARGE courses, plus extras and the reasonable 2 1/2-3 ounce pours of 7 wines. The fourth person chose the 5-course eliminating the cheese and sweetbread courses from our 7-course which ran $69 and an extra $35 for 5 wines.

Yummy breadsticks with salt and caraway are brought immediately and the water is all complimentary with a choice of still or sparkling all filtered and gas-infused in house. This is one of the greenest ways to avoid those awful plastic and glass bottles wasted as the water is served in glass re-usable carafes and you can refill at the table to your heart's content. BRAVO for this.

We ordered a bottle of DOMAINE FERRATON Semorens 2007 Cotes du Rhone white which was superb and an amazing deal at under $30! Our bread came and we were already impressed: French soft rolls, Buttermilk chive biscuits, Rosemary Bacon Brioche and House Whole Grain were served hot with sea salted butter from the Vermont Butter & Cheese Co,

I have always believed that an amuse is a good sign of what is to come. Well, our three amuse were amazing, not just amusing: CHILLED RUTABAGA Soup with Lemon Oil & SALMON ROE which exploded in my mouth made me want a couple more of the tasty eggs MEDJOOL DATE was filled with CURRIED YOGURT and sprinkled with FENNEL POLLEN (I asked if people who have outdoor allergies need to avoid this pollen?) BEET MACAROON was filled with FOIE GRAS MOUSSE and sprinkled with Orange Powder. This was a crunchy fun and not heavy teeny taste that was just right.

The sommelier Neil knows his wine, but had one or two odd pairing choices with the tasting that we were not crazy about. The Ferraton was a perfect starter because it goes with so many different things. Next came a LOOSEN, Dr. L RIESLING 2007 from Germany which has a teensy amount of residual sugar, which Will never likes, so Neil quickly subbed a glass of Latour Ardeche 2006 for him. The first course was a TASTING OF TUSCARORA (Penna.) FARMS BEETS with Balsamic Six (6% acidity with a huge fruity taste), GOAT CHEESE (from Cherry Glen MD), Garden Tarragon, Mizuna & Peppercress. This may sound simple but the dish had a dehydrated beet meringue that was wild and the gout cheese was whipped into a light and frothy mousse with the beets having to be some of the best ever tasted on earth!

The SHITAKE VELOUTE with PINENUT SABAYON and Crisp SHITAKES in CHILI OIL was a divine and rich soup served with a BRUNO FRANCO NEBBIOLO d'ALBA 2005 from Piemonte which we all agreed was a bit too red and intense for this very divine creamy soup. Will actually preferred his with the Latour wine he had remaining!

SEARED YELLOWFIN TUNA with PARSNIP, BLACK FORBIDDEN RICE, Braised BABY BOK CHOY, Fermented Black Garlic Vinaigrette and COCONUT Air (foam) with MADRAD CURRY was another divine creation. These portions by the way were not small. The fish was probably about 6-7 bites, the veloute an entire bowl. We had to start pacing ourselves so we could manage the rest of the meal. Nobody seemed to know why the rice got its name, but it is a small black grain that is quite risotto-like and truly flavorful. Every element in this dish was perfectly combined. We actually felt that here it was indeed a combination of the ingredients that worked so well. I often like to taste the separate elements and then combine them randomly; here it had to be all together. Neil chose a brilliant THISTLE PINOT BLANC 2007 from Dundee Hills Oregon which we all loved with the dish...perfection indeed.

SWEETBREADS were tempura fried with flavors of PICATA, MEYER LEMON, KALAMATA Olive and a Veal Reduction with Golden Raisins and Caper & Parsley Powders. Here it was fun to try the sweetbreads with a taste from each of the "sauces" making for many different tastes indeed. The wine is a new find that I will get immediately, as I could drink it forever. PUNTO FINAL MALBEC RESERVA 2006 from Mendoza in Argentina (from 50 year old vines, Neil tells us) is so smooth, you could drink it for days.

A large piece of superbly-tender 48 HOUR BRAISED WAGYU SHORT RIBs came over a Puree of YUKON GOLD POTATOES with a Garlic Transparency (like a 1 inch square of that Listerine papery thing you toss in your mouth to freshen your breath), Roasted Pepper, Sundried Grapes and Beef Reduction. Again, a dish with many options to taste different combinations and a wine that I will also purchase ASAP-CHARLES SMITH 2007 The VELVET DEVIL MERLOT from Columbia Valley Oregon is a medium bodied Merlot that is soooo smooth and perfect with a delicate meat like this.

One of use did not eat red meat and had a delish ROASTED CHICKEN with Chicken Mousse cooked sous-vide with Russian Banana Fingerling Potatoes and Ruby Chard.

The cheese course was POINT REYES BLUE, Celery Variations and Beet-Port Glaze which was actually a Beet-Port Sorbet and Puree. A salty crisp was on the side and it was a wonderful new take on the same old cheese option. As you know, I don't care for beer, and Neil served a WILD GOOSE SNOW GOOSE from Frederick which Will loved alone, but he did not care for with the cheese. The rest of us switched to a superb ROBERTSON 2008 Late Harvest GEWURTZTRAMINER from South Africa that was light sweet and just right with this excellent blue cheese and the accompanying beet variations.

The first dessert on the tasting was the TEXTURES of CHOCOLATE with mint consisting of PRALINE FROZEN CUSTARD, Chocolate GANACHE, Chocolate CARAMEL, Cocoa and some other items I missed. Having been overdone by Hershey PA, Will and I switched and had the lighter MACOUN APPLE SORBET & VANILLA BEAN ICE CREAM with BUTTER CANDIED GRANNY SMITH APPLES, CINNAMON DOUGHNUTS and crumble...it was all top notch and the accompanying TALIJANCICH, White SOLERO SHERRY aged 10 years from Swan Valley Australia was a novel sweet treat (made from Pedro Ximenes, Muscadel and Verdeho).

A not so interesting LAVENDER POWDER COCONUT Sorbet and pudding with vanilla simple syrup came next, but I think e were verging on way too full anyway. The mignardises were tasty POMEGRANATE Pate aux fruits, ALMOND MACAROON with Chocolate Ganache and Lavender Madeleines....all yumyum.

We got Blueberry Coffee Cakes to take home for the next morning knowing that despite the 50+ minute drive from our home, we would be back to VOLT for another JOLT real soon!

more Hershey treats at the HERSHEY GRILL(PA) eye on Isaac's deli

On our last night in Hershey we crossed town to our sister hotel the Hershey Lodge, which is much larger and loaded with hundreds of convention/meetings/youth folk making for much more noise than our quieter oasis atop the hills of chocolate-town.

The Lodge has many dining option with the HERSHEY GRILL at the top level and while it is simple, the food is delicious. There is a small rock garden with fish pond and bonsai-style Japanese trees which Samuel loved, especially the duck that had taken up residence. The restaurant is an outmoded 70's style with lots of booths with geometric patterned fabric, but the service (as it is everywhere in Hershey) is super-friendly and pretty-much efficient.

The only problem we really had was with our bottle of EL COTO BLNACO WHITE RIOJA 2007 that came at just below room temperature. Our server, Glenda, explained the cooler is not that cool; I suggested they get a new one and they said it was new! OOPS. After putting the wine in one of those pretty useless silver canisters, we ultimately did get a bucket with ice and water that did the trick (after we had finished 40% of the bottle). The wine was delish with big green apple nose and taste and was superb with my spicy appetizer of POP ROCK SHRIMP, Herb Seasoned, Lightly Fried with a Sweet & SPICY CURRY SAUCE. This dish was barely breaded and HUGE and presented adorably on the plate with a chinese food carton turned on its side, the field greens rolling out of it, chopsticks and the shrimp surround them. It was quite spicy and adventurous for the mostly tame when it comes to spice Hershey folks. Will had a superb appetizer of CAJUN SHRIMP PIROGIES in a Blackened MUSHROOM BROTH with RAPINI. This was a very mild, yet tasty dish with the mostly potato and some not spicy at all shrimp filling in the yummy pillows floating in a tasty broth (a spoon might have been helpful if you wanted to drink the broth).

Meanwhile Samuel opted for the very cheeesy PIZZA portion for kids which was large enough for him to take home half after he had finished the side of vegetables: snow peas, carrots and broccoli-rabe (which he now adores). Of course, the drink du jour: CHOCOLATE MILK! There were nice warm rolls with a superb PESTO DIP which was great on the fries later on!

Our red wine was a medium-bodied SAGELANDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005 ('03 on the menu) from Washington State that had big cherry, vanilla and caramel notes with a (yes, believe it or not) COCOA finish., though not sweet of course.

It was divine with my COCOA-CHILI Rubbed CHICKEN with Roasted BEETS, Roasted Potatoes and French FETA cheese. The dish was not spicy nor sweet, and was seasoned to perfection. The portion was, as expected, huge, as were the sides and the cheese was just right with the beets (or the chicken for that matter).

Will opted for the FILET MIGNON with Garlic Green Peppercorn Butter, Steak Frites and Broccoli-Rabe. It was a decent steak, but I am not a big fan of steak with melted butter, even if spicy (it's that old Ruth's Chris gimmick).

Sam gobbled up some mediocre RASPBERRY SORBET and we headed home to finish off the red wine with some chocolate in our suite.

A note that the sandwiches at ISAAC's DELI on West Chocolate Avenue are a great option for lunch if in Hershey (The cheddar wrap with Almond/Cranberry/Chicken Salad is a winner).

Hershey Hotel's CIRCULAR DINING Room will surprise you

Last night here at the Hershey Hotel, we hired a sitter for Samuel (he loved her) and headed downstairs to the grand old CIRCULAR DINING Room. This is probably the only restaurant between Philly and Chicago that requires jackets, but the setting is so nice, it makes for a bit more class. The room is largely circular with a huge domed ceiling painted with sky and surrounding trellis of flowering vines. The 1930's antique stained glass windows still remain surrounding huge windows overlooking the formal gardens and its 5 neo-classical American temple like structures. Much of the hotel features busy-patterned carpets, but at least in the Circular Dining Room the chair fabric kind of matches on the huge comfy leather bottoms chairs. The tables are large and well spaced allowing for intimate dining as well. There was an indescribable gait by the maitre d' as he led us to the table. One of those episodes seemingly from a film where he goes "walk this way" and you just can't help laughing and trying to walk behind him to the table. We noticed other folks giggling as they were seated as well. Our server, YVONNE was a gem, and after dinner as we were readying to leave she insisted we take a huge box of tasty chocolate-chip cookies and yummy oatmeal-raisin cookies(which I am now munching with my morning coffee) for Samuel (and us) to enjoy today.

First to the table came three butters: PUMPKIN-TRUFFLE, Plain and yes, CHOCOLATE. The bread selection as some of the tastiest: Rosemary- Garlic Biscuits (best with the Pumpkin-Truffle), live, Sourdough and richly intense CHOCOLATE CHUNK & CHERRY. The maitre d' admitted to being a chocoholic and loving the chocolate butter on the latter; but you could not even taste it. Yvonne suggested it on the sourdough which really well.

An amuse of CRAB SALAD with Strawberry Puree and White Chocolate Shavings was simple and the shavings minimal so not to make it too sweet.

The sommelier suggested the white wine special of the month and the WITHER HILLS 2006 SAUVIGNON BLANC from Marlborough, NZ was a grapefruity, gooseberry treat that did cut some of the richness is my appetizer(see below).

Will and I split a CREEKSIDE SPECKLED BABY ROMAINE Salad with WHITE ANCHOVIES, Roasted Garlic Dressing and a Parmesan Tuille in Garlic Puree. The lettuce was superb, but sadly way overdressed with nowhere to go. The Garlic Puree tasted a bit like Hummus but with tons of Garlic. Everything was highlighted by a white balsamic reduction that was a bit sweet and syrupy running across the plate at an angle. Will had the SPRNG PEA FARRO( a thick barley-like grain) with Pea Tendrils, Mascarpone Cheese and Organic Baby Mushrooms which was much like a risotto and absolutely divine. On Yvonne's suggestion, I tried the WHITE CHOCOLATE Glazed Scallops with Almonds, Brown Butter and Nasturtium. IT was not really sweet if you avoid the couple of gobs of white chocolate on the plate. The glaze was tasty (a bit citrusy) and the two scallops were huge and delish, and it was all decorated with several edible flowers (that were actually yummy with the white chocolate--it reversed the bitter taste that these flowers usually have).

The wine worked to perfection to equalize the slight sweetness of the dish. I am glad I had it once, but would not want it regularly. Our second wine was a COTES du RHONE "Belleruche" 2006 from M. CHAPOUTIER that the sommelier let breathe for some time which made it much better. We told him what we had chosen for entrees and it was not easy to find a wine that goes with pork and lobster; but he did. The LANCASTER COUNTRY PORK TENDERLOIN was rolled and filled with "Keswick Farms" WALLABY CHEESE and ARUGULA and served with yummy POTATO & PRETZEL GNOCCHI and Cipollini Onions. I opted for the special of POACHED LOBSTER TAIL & claw with Purple PERUVIAN POTATOES, Brown Butter Braised Brussel Sprouts all in a Sherry Cream Sauce. The lobster was divinely cooked to perfection and the sauce as well, the potatoes tasty and crunchy and the sprouts superb. The chef, TODD RUIZ (actually the sous chef, but apparently in charge in the absence of chef Ken Gladysz) actually served the meals and answered some of our questions. Indeed, we had nothing but praise for the food and overall experience.

Will chose the CHOCOLATE MACADAMIA MOUSSE CAKE with Caramel Ice Cream and Banana Rum Coulis which was quite delish, but I needed something that was the antithesis of sweet; yes, CHEESE. The cheese plate was a picture perfect presentation with a POACHED FIG and WHITE CHOCOLATE VINAIGRETTE, breadsticks, flatbreads and several cheeses:

The winner was the HUMBOLDT FOG GOAT that everyone always loves. NANCY's CAMEMBERT was simply not ripe enough for me and kind of boring BAVARIAN SWISS from Hendrek Farms was more like a hard pecorino or parmesan than a Swiss, but a nice strong flavor and taste.

We took our cookies and headed back to the room to relieve the babysitter having decided that Hershey does indeed have fine dining and it is good quality to boot!

Hershey (Penn.) Pantry, the meal with its own zip code

While here in Hershey, PA (the USA chocolate capital), we opted to head to the hottest breakfast spot in town, THE HERSHEY PANTRY (www.hersheypantry.com). It's an adorable little 20+ table spot with a marble bar/counter with stools and we had been told the CHOCOLATE CHIP PANCAKES are the best. They are such a secret (not) that they are not even on the menu!

WE had no clue of the portion size and ordered Samuel the small 2 BUTTERMILK PANCAKE portion. I went for the three size and Will had a nice poached egg with ham and toast.

I ate about 1/4 of mine and Sam even less as each fluffy tasty loaded with Hershey's chocolate chips pancake was practically 8-9 inches across.Our waitress admitted that most of the dishes HAVE THEIR OWN ZIP CODE!

Especially the CINNAMON ROLL we saw at the next table. Sadly, the waste upset us so much as Sam and I could have easily shared a small portion.

Voted 17 years in a row the best breakfast in central Pennsylvania, it's no surprise, but I only wish I knew the portion size before it arrived.

ALAN--beginning to suffer from over-chocolatization after only 24 hours here in Hershey.

Harrisburg, PA's BRICCO gets a bravo from us all

When we knew we were headed to Hershey, PA. for three days with Samuel for part of his Spring Break, I decided we might need to get away from all the chocolate from time to time. On our first evening we drove 15 minutes west to Harrisburg with Samuel to dine at BRICCO (www.briccopa.com) right in the heart of downtown. First, a warning that if you decide to go here, do NOT USE A GPS system to guide you. It seems that they are all WRONG! The address 31 S. Third Street will send you to a nearby suburb called Steelton which is as seedy as it gets and we were driving around in circles for 15 minutes totally lost while our silly GPS kept insisting we had arrived!

The decor at BRICCO is medium to dark browns with a modern classical feel. It is large with several dining rooms and a huge bar as well. It was getting late for Samuel (past 630pm) so we ordered up the SAGE PAPPARDELLE with a plain Tomato Sauce and several large shavings of Parmesan for him. He gave it two thumbs up, gobbled it down, and for the first time ever in a restaurant asked for another portion, which he ate every last bite of as well.

I was intrigued by a Sicilian wine (the menu is Italian-centric) made from the Cataratto grape and the wine guy brought over a taste of Anthila Donnafugatta which is made from 100% Cataratto, an intense flowery nose and taste indeed. We decided to try the CASALJ RABITALLARI Cataratto (70%)-Chardonnay(30%) blend from Tenuta Rapitala which was quite a nice wine, but even better with the food we chose. CALAMARI SALAD with Chilies, Lemon, Garlic & Basil was a nicely marinated and light dish needing just a bit more on the chilies for some flavor, as it was really more lemon than spice. There was also nice plain and sundried tomato bread with oil for dipping which Samuel has really taken a liking to.

MARINATED WHITE ANCHOVIES came with a large salad of CARAMELIZED FENNEL on Red ENDIVE with Lobster Oil and was another lower-calorie light, very filling and super tasty dish. Will had the BRAZILIAN PACU "RIBS" which are the bones of this what must be huge fish SMOKED, then BBQ'd with a Quince BBQ sauce and served with a Fennel Slaw. Super- tasty "ribs" are a novelty and yummy treat, but can be bony.

We switched to a MARCHESI du BAROLO 2006 Barbera d'Alba "Ruvei" which was light enough to go with my TIGER FISH (also from Brazil) pan-seared and served with WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO and Black Truffle shavings. It was a bit like sea bass but richer and creamier and fleshier and with a superbly crunchy skin that I gobbled up. Will opted for the SAGE PAPPARDELLE that Samuel so loved, but with the menu's sauce of BRAISED DUCK, RED WINE and PANCETTA Ragout; it was indeed superb.

We loved everything and everything was perfect except when one appetizer got delayed and our server Heather was quite apologetic. We did have to pour our own wine from time to time, but otherwise it was great.

We decided to take a cheese order home as it was getting late and enjoyed it back in Hershey with some red wine:
ROBIOLA BOSINA a creamy tasty Italian from cow and sheep
POINT REYES BLUE-a Calif. treat that is not too blue TUMBLEWEED raw cow from Five Spoke Creamery here in Pennsylvania was nice, but no awards
SPEZIATO AL TARTUFO Cow is another truffle infused cheese from Italy that's also nice but no award
GRAND OLD MAN PECORINO a nice way to end with an intense cheese

These all came with a tasty GRAPE MUST (like a fruit strip), Pear Mostardo, Crostini and a small Honeycomb which Heather said to try with the blue cheese--it was perfect.

CITRONELLE still superb

It has been some years since we dined at Citronelle and while the restaurant is now only open for dinner Tues-Sat, it still retains its air of haute cuisine and delivers on all counts.

michel Richard could not be seen (well, he was not there) from our prime table next to the kitchen window, but his Executive Chef David Deshaies is obviously doing everything right in his absence. The staff from manager Jean-Jacques all the way down do their jobs with flair and class making for an even finer dining experience. We started with a bottle of CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET "Pot Bois" Domaine Lamy Pillot which the menu listed as 2005, but had switched to the
newer (and less desirable?) 2006. It was a yummy chard with lots of mineral and only the slightest touch of new oak; what a treat.

We missed sommelier Mark Slater who just departed after what must be more than a decade to Rays the Steaks (good luck!).

The TRIO of AMUSES was indeed amusing and superb:
A MINI TACO with FLOUNDER CEVICHE style
Poached Grilled EGG with BASIL Olive Oil
GNOCCHI of Spinach in a splash of divine cream sauce

We chose to order ala carte rather than the tasting menu and had the NANTUCKET BAY SCALLOPS with Calamari, Corn (popcorn and corn straw and corn sauce) which was fun and just delicious. Will declared his starter as the BEST ON EARTH: LOBSTER "BEGULA" Pasta is actually a pearl pasta dyed with Squid Ink to look like Beluga Caviar and served atop HUGE CHUNKS of LOBSTER in a Caviar-like tin with the stamp of Michel Richard on the top. Not only is the presentation cute, the taste is simply DIVINE, and an amazing pairing with the Montrachet!

Next came a treat of PEA SOUP with PANCETTA, and a QUAIL EGG on top enclosed in straw-like potato wrap. I don't know how they cooked the potato and the egg inside it or which came first (it's like the chicken and the egg joke!), but it was superb.

We had moved on to a huge McLaren Vale Shiraz from MITOLO VINEYARDS in Australia -G.A.M. 2005 that had everything anyone could want in a Shiraz and went beyond perfectly with the PRIME SHORT RIBS braised 72 hours (sous bis--remember that's what made Carla Hall lose TOP CHEF!) in an unreally delicious RAISIN-PEPPERCORN Sauce with Zucchini, Carrots, Rutabaga and a Pot of Fingerling Potato Cassoulet (which was ok).

The VEAL THREE WAYS had shortbreads, cheek and shank and was another Winner of a dish. Warning: the short ribs must be ordered for two or more people and
actually can serve three or more (we took home an entire portion!).

The pre-dessert was the only unremarkable thing all night: ORANGE MOUSSE with Black Cherry Sauce and Pistachio

The desserts, as always, were a highlight. Chef Richard began as a pastry chef and has not lost the interest. The TATIN-LIKE APPLE was Caramelized with Ice Cream, the BLUE CHEESE CAKE with DULCE de LECHE SAUCE and my CREME BRULEE with Petals, FRESH FRUIT, PASSION FRUIT SAUCE and Mixed Berries were all simply divine.

As if this were not enough a plate of Mignardises included Chocolate & Pear, a yummy CRUNCHY RASPBERRY and Chocolate Dusted Crunchy GRAPES with Truffle Coating.

Needless to say we went home VERY FULL.

DC's Cafe SAINT-EX still excelling

It's been a while since our last visit to CAFE SAINT-EX(www.saint-ex.com 1847 14th St NW), that funky just north or Dupont, south of U Street, cafe/bar made famous by Chef Barton Seaver (moved on to Hook and....). Now in charge is Chef William Klein and he is doing a smashing job. Add to this that they have a $32 three course prix-fixe (any appetizer,main and dessert) which is available until 7pm and goes up to $36 at 7pm and you have a fine place to dine. We took Samuel and arrived around 6pm and the place was pretty quiet and empty. By 715pm it was full and brimming, but not too noisy.

We ordered Sam the appetizer of POTATO GNOCCHI with Caramelized Onions, Spicy Pecans and Sweet Potato Mousse which was overdose for him. He ate a couple of the superb gnocchi, then decided he did not like it. I think it was the rich mousse underlying which really made the dish overly sweet and not to a child's liking. Will and I finished it off telling Sam that he would have to eat some of our fish, or no dessert.

Will had the ROASTED BEET SALAD with Watercress, Feta and Grapefruit Two Ways (Candied and segmented) which was quite a large salad. I opted for the PEI MUSSELS (having loved them before) with FENNEL, SAFFRON and STAN's ITALIAN SAUSAGE (no idea who Stan is?). This is another winning Mussel dish (very different from the older spicy recipe) with a mash of fennel in the soup that makes it so drinkable as well and four huge slices of toasted bread to dip. Sam did not care for the broth but gobbled up Stan's sausage and some bread. We drank a superb bottle of BERTHET-RAYNE COTES du RHONES BLANC 2006 as Sam gobbled down (we helped too) a paper cone of some of the best FRENCH FRIES in town. These were coarsely salted and needed not a drop of ketchup (even Sam agreed)!

The char-grilled NORTH CAROLINA TUNA came with a SPINACH & GRUEYE RISOTTO and a Roasted Rep Pepper ALmond Puree. The fish was superb as was the suace and risotto, and Samuel helped me eat it as well, earning dessert, but saying he was full!

Will had the COSTA RICAN MAHI-MAHI with Bacon BRUSSELS SPROUTS and Goat Cheese Stuffed Dates. He thought his fish was not too exciting, but I loved it.

I have to mention the downstairs bathroom with corrugated steel walls covered with stickers (Samuel loves stickers) from travel the world over; we even found places we had been although some of the stickers seemed to be at least 1/2 a century old or more!

Will had a superb STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING (only saying the center was not as soft and runny as it could be) with Candied Pecans and Vanilla Ice Cream and I opted for the excellent and refreshing TANGERINE CREME BRULEE with Cardamom Shortbread Cookies (Sam helped eat these). Sadly a glass of EDMEADES 2004 Late Harvest ZInfandel had little sweetness and indeed seemed NOT to be late harvest...but we shared it and headed home from a yummy neighborhood meal.

more bravos for NYC's BAR BOULUD across from Lincoln Center

Last night in between operas at the Met I traipsed across the street from Lincoln Center to return to BAR BOULUD at 1900 Broadway which I wrote about after its opening just over a year ago. It is a gem of a bistro and when I go here, I eat small plates or appetizers rather than heading to the larger main courses. It allows for fun and variety and last night my server Jenna steered me right at every juncture. I started with two specials: PURPLE ANZINO ARTICHOKES and PECORINO Salad with Arugola. THe salad had soft slices of tasty cheese on the bottom, piles of greens with a lemony vinaigrette and lots of shaved thin slices of the baby purple chokes. A perfect salad and what a change from the awful frisee (that's on many other items on the menu).

I ordered a flight of 3 2 ounce reds: KINGSTON FARMS PINOT NOIR 2007 from Casablanca Valley in the north of Chile. This is a great fruit forward tasty Pinot that has body and goes with so may foods; a true find.

ARGIANO ROSSO di MONTALCINO 2006 was very earthy and craved for food. It was perfect with my second item: STUFFED PORTUGUESE SARDINES with Roasted Peppers, Braised Spinach and a small side salad of Chorizo, Arugola, Marinated Red and Yellow Peppers and White Beans. The fish came coiled up with the tail stuffed through the mouth; it was adorable. The two sardines were literally stuffed to the gills and oh so tasty and not salty at all. My third wine was an amazing 1996 CHATEAU d'ISSAN (Bordeaux) "Blason d'Issan" that was as smooth as a Margaux gets and I adored drinking this alone between courses. I HAVE TO FIND IT NOW!

I forgot to mention the tasty peppery GOUGERES that come after you order and the wonderful French bread served with top quality butter pats sprinkled with coarse salt.

I described the decor last time, but if you are three or more folks try to get a booth as the chairs at the tables are not tres confortable. And while the music can get loud, it's not awful as some places can be. Obviously being across from Lincoln Center the place tends to empty at 730pm before all the curtains! A little treat was sent out from the chef next and was indeed a treat: CRISPY PORK BELLY with homemade MUSTARD. There was one piece of hard cartilage at the top of once piece..which I mistook for meat, but luckily did not swallow. The meat was amazing and the mustard a treat as well. OH SO CRISPY and tasty and what a nice surprise.

I finished my Bordeaux and went on to a glass of tasty PAUL JABOULET "Les Terassess" CORNAS 2004 from the Rhone that is another great wine for so many of these bistro dishes.

My next course was the GARBURE de CANARD, a Gascon Duck-style soup that had Winter Root Veggies (Cabbage, Beans) and some shreds of tasty Duck Confit. This is a great winter soup and it was below 40 in NYC last night, so a good and filling choice. The soup is not thick or huge, so even a white wine would work with it, although any nice red will do.

The last appetizer I chose was again Jenna's idea: TORTE DE CANARD was a brilliant pate en croute of duck, foie gras and figs with the flakiest of crusts multi-layered to perfection, homemade mustard, cornichons and pickled baby pearl onions; another gem of charcuterie that I would never find elsewhere. The wine was perfection with this to boot (thanks Jenna).

I opted for some cheeses to finish (despite the fact that Boulud's LA DIVA RENEE dessert was on the menu and I was headed to hear Renee Fleming (for whom it is named) sing)-- and chose three: Old and Hard 12 month old CABOT CLOTHBOUND CHEDDAR was intense, nutty and flavorful GRES de VOSGES (under the STINKY heading) was a semi-soft earthy and slightly smelly cheese which was great with the nutty bread, but not at the level of the L'AMI DU CHAMBERTIN an Epoisses-like runny living unpasturized gem served in a bowl that I adored

Kudos to Chef Damian Samsonetti and even Baker Mark Fiorentino and the entire friendly, generous and accommodating staff. It was a great meal.

NYC's CONVIVIO comes to James Beard House

I always enjoy going to James Beard House for a meal and had the opportunity to lunch there on Friday where Chef CRAIG WALLEN of NYC's Italian gem CONVIVIO (www.convivionyc.com) was in residence. He made some quite good impressions, especially in the pasta department, and I had the pleasure of dining with some wonderful new friends including Tony Award winner Billy Crudup!

Upon arrival we were treated to a yummy 2007 Tunuta di Serra Marrocco IL GRILLO del BARONE which is a crisp tasty Sicilian white that is perfect with all the different passed treats we had: FEGATINI-Rustic Chicken Liver on Crostini smothered with Caramelized Marsala Onions (my fave) SAFFRON ARANCINI those delectable deep-fried risotto balls Stracciatella with Burrata, Tomato & Basil which had some yummy runny Buratta on a slice of way too crunchy crostini that really stole the show from the superb cheese

We sat down to VILLA DORA LACRYMA CHRISTI del VESUVIO Vigna del Vulcano 2004 that not one of us could guess the varietal for. One of the guys at our table who is a food chemical aroma consultant said it was very "barny" and all I could think of was the big purple guy (so much for having a 5-year old!). He was actually correct as the wine was so strong in the nose, but actually perfect with the SARDINIAN SAFFRON GNOCCHETTI with Crab & Sea Urchin an intensely flavorful pasta with shreds of crab and the essence (bot not the meat) of the urchin.

Our second pasta was FUSILLI with Neapolitan Pork Shoulder RAGU and CACIOCAVALLO FONDUTA. I had to ask the chef later on what "caciocavallo" meant as I know the roots "cacio" from hunt and "cavallo" is horse. Well, he said it really means the horse's balls. OOPS! No matter, it was another superb pasta dish and served with a bit too light red (or was it rose?) for me VIO GIOBATTA U BASTIO ROSSESE di ALBEGNA 2007. That was the problem with this wine, none of us knew if it was rose or red, and it had characters of both but lacked much integrity to be defined.

The red wine was a superb LA CIPRIANA SAN MARTINO BOLGHERO ROSSOS SUPERIORE 1999 and was served with a nice SCOTTADITO di AGNELLO - Grilled Lamb Chops with Salsa Verde, Escarole and Beans, and while quite tasty, I thought my Rack of Lamb at home was a better dish.

The dessert was a Tartaletta of PISTACHIO BRULEE with Orange Sorbet and Candied Pistachios (I couldn't find any of these) which was yummy, yummy, yummy and served with an uneventful BERA MOSCATO d'ASTI 2007.

It was a great meal overall and a most rewarding afternoon.

POSH SUPPER CLUB presents superb cuisine and more

We had the pleasure of meeting Chef Christopher Willis at a charity benefit last year and thoroughly enjoyed tasting some of his food that evening. We were so enticed we immediately made plans to head to his restaurant POSH SUPPER CLUB (www.poshdc.com at 730 11th St, NW, previously Ortanique). Sadly, our plans were thwarted twice in a row and it took us almost 3/4 of a year to make it there.

We should not have delayed. AND NEITHER SHOULD YOU. Don't be fooled by the term "supper club" although you will often find different types of entertainment here; the star is the food! You should know it is one of the few places in town with a dress code, though not apparently enforced. The folks sitting next to us did not have the "required jackets" for sure.

The two-tiered space has a fun fish tank behind the host stand separating the large dining space with mezzanine seating balconied above. The decor is modern and snazzy with lots of metal sculptures lit from the bottom which reminded me of the Air Force monument over in Arlington near the Pentagon. The menus have metal jackets as well (a bit of a weighty problem). On the wall is a huge video screen with silent music videos (jazz) playing, which bothered me when the live entertainment began as it was just a visual distraction form the musicians as well as the food and the company. The tables have leather covers (which can be a bit tricky as they are not that even when replacing your glass). These are indeed the ONLY problems at Posh and are SO MINOR they must now be forgotten. The noise levels are decent (although one or two songs got a bit loud) and the lighting is superb despite the overall low levels throughout thanks to excellent pinpoint lights at each table.

The wine lists are varied and we had two great ones from low end to very high: STEELE 2006 Steele Cuvee Chardonnay from California is always a good bargain and goes so well with the many excellent seafood dishes. The VALL LACH 2001 PRIORAT was a huge red dream come true after it breathed for about 10-15 minutes (we opened it at the start of dinner and by the main course it was simply deep magenta bliss).

Our server KATSHA was excellent, and everyone else from the manager Theo to the rest of the staff want to make everyone happy. We could tell from chatting with neighbors that this is a big REPEAT crowd. You may know that Posh is owned by BET magnate Robert Johnson, who just happened to be there the other night and apparently dines there often; I would too! It is a spot that anyone would WANT to be seen in to begin with and then there is the food.......

Once you have ordered and settled in a basket of CHEESE BREAD comes to the table which Will instantly declared as the best bread he has ever had. Butter, Parmesan, and evenly spread spice make this a difficult to resist treat. We had three baskets delivered for the 4 of us and then had to say NO MORE!

The Grilled AVOCADO & LOBSTER SALAD (is huge like all portions here) comes with diced Maine Lobster, jicama, tomato, onion, cucumber, yellow pepper and cilantro with a CUSABI (that's cucumber-wasabi) Ranch Dressing. It is slightly spicy, but really mild. Chef Willis has an amazing way of spreading the spice thin..and even on the spicier Jerk-type dishes there is never a bolt of spice in any one bite or space...it is all even to perfection (see note on cornbread later). It is a simpler appetizer and truly a deluxe salad.

LOBSTER CRAB MARTINI is a dense treat served in a stemless huge martini glass resting in a box of ice. There are huge chunks of Lobster & Jumbo Crab with Cilantro, Avocado and cherry tomato with Sweet Cabbage shredded on top. Here again is that mild yet spread perfectly spiciness in the creamy dressing, somewhat akin to Thousand Island in taste and consistency, but definitely at a higher level. FRESH BRANZINI comes atop a Shitake Mushroom Slice with a JERK-DRIED MOREL sitting atop on a bed of Grain Mustard Beurre Blanc. The superb fish is a treat, the morel is a novelty again with that even spice and yummy almost fruity taste and the sauce is divine.

JUMBO LUMP CRAB CAKES are a signature here as an appetizer or main course and may very well make the TOP OF THE LIST in TOWN in a taste test! They are fried and served with Old Bay Mustard that is tasty but not overpowering and a creamy tasty Mango-Jicama Slaw.

By now the singer, William Crue had begun to croon along with his sax player and we were all swinging to the light jazzy music. Some nights there are big bands, some nights karaoke and some nights lighter fare like Mr. Crue, who would beat any IDOL contestant in my mind. By the time we left, a number of folks had taken to the dance floor enjoying his melting tunes.

Main courses from Chef Willis were all totally impressive from the GRILLED PORK CHOP stuffed with Candied SHALLOT in a RUM CURRANT SAUCE comes with GARLIC MASH and a side of Creamed SPINACH that was to die for. GRILLED SALMON has a Roasted Corn "salsa" with Wild Rice Pilaf and Sauteed Spinach all in a Tropical Juice Beurre Blanc. Will's GRILLED HANGAR STEAK (if you liked the now defunct Les Halles, come right in here) was Molasses Rubbed and he substituted the TRUFFLE FRIES (WOW!) for the Garlic Mash; sauteed Mushrooms on the side and a Rosemary-Mustard Demi Glace.

My SEARED JAMAICAN JERK ROCKFISH is layered with thin slices of MANGO on a bed of ROASTED ASPARAGUS and topped with SWEET POTATO FRISEE. The sauce was a slightly creamy rich one with the jerk spice thoroughly spread through again. I thought this was truly one of the best fish dishes I have had in ages.

Another entree we noticed around was the CHICKEN & WAFFLES; we need to go back for this! There are also many side options and for $5.00 don't miss the CORNBREAD which comes out in a cast-iron skillet with a little potholder and sizzles on the edges as it continues to cook. This is a dessert-like sweet moist cornbread (much like spoonbread) and comes with a scoop of JALAPENO BUTTER melting on top. The jalapenos are diced small, but here you can seek out the spice or not, depending on your taste. Will declared this the other best bread he ever had!

I am sure most of the desserts are great, but we tasted only one as we were so full. The COCONUT CAKE is fried golden on the outside and served with Powdered Sugar and Whipped Cream. It is a bit of an indulgence, so coconutty, rich and creamy and then FRIED. My heartrate and cholesterol jumped to excess; but it was good.

POSH is a place to go for fun, entertainment and FOOD..don't forget that and we wont wait 9 months to go back for sure!

CORK WINE BAR (DC) comes and wavers

As you know yesterday was the benfit evening for Food and Friends called DINING OUT FOR LIFE. We first tried to get into the new hot spot on 14th Street, POSTO, sister bistro to Tosca downtown, but it was jammed by 545pm since they had graciously decided to donate 100% of proceeds to F&F. Since we had a 730pm curtain on the block we headed to CORK WINE BAR (www.corkdc.com) at 1720 14th St NW and found the place relatively empty and quiet at 6pm--BOY were we wrong!

We were seated not far from the front door in a large cozy front room with a huge "wine" bar taking up almost all the room save from some tables at the front, a host stand next to the door and a line of tables up the narrow right wall to the right of the bar. I noticed that each time the door opened a huge draft descended on us, and this could so easily be alleviated by having a second doorway constructed as the entry has a narrow outside vestibule!

We were qute excited by the menu of small cols and warm plates, cheeses and charcuterie and ask our server for his suggestions. He then headed to a table up front where he seemed to linger for about 4-5 minutes chatting and we finally had to hail another woman over to take our order as we needed to get to our show. The wine list is long, varied, exciting and reasonable, by the glass or by the bottle. We chose (on her excellent recommendation) a subtle deep red Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero 2005 VINA SASTRE CRIANZA which we adored and went so perfectly with everything we tried.

Sadly, almost all the dishes came at one time with some getting cold and most of them so large they could not fit them all on the table. If a restaurant wants to serve tapas style with small tables, they need to rethink their plate sizes! By this time the bar was heaving and people were stepping into my back constantly. AT one point, well known DC Gay activisit and previous director of Whitman-Walker, Cornelius Baker dashed by and slammed his backpack into my aching back! This was obviously not done on purpose, but the space is so narrow and uncomfortable, I could not help thinking why they did recommend we take a table in the rear when we arrived as the place was virtually empty! We did not know there was rear seating as well.

We did enjoy most of the dishes, but the AVOCADO, PISTACHIO, Toasted Pistacio Oil, Sea Salt on Grilled Bread (read: Bruschetta) could have used a tad more avocado (the slices were tasty and slim, but chincy). A delicious choice is the creamy rich ROSEMARY CHICKEN LIVER BRUSCHETTA with its superb SHALLOT MARMALADE and a useless three bite "herb" salad, which is really just mache.

Our server, York V (as indicated on the charge receipt), recommended the FRENCH FRIES with parsley, garlic and housemade ketchup, which were no great shakes...indeed, while the fried may have come out warmish, they were cold by the time we got to them. Oddly enough, the ketchup was like an ice cube and had no taste until it later came to room temperature and was indeed superb. By this time, the fries were truly cold.

The two hit dishes were the veggies. SAUTEED WILD MUSHROOMS with MADEIRA and Marjoram was a superb buttery concoction and the excellent ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS with Pancetta in BROWN BUTTER and Thyme were a treat, although we found no more than three or four tiny specs of pancetta. Another hit was the DUCK CONFIT with SAVOY CABBAGE SLAW, Roasted Baby Beets and Beet Vinaigrette, a dish that is not too hard to split, but harder than others and worth every bite.

We had some time left and decided to try three varied cheeses and hit the jackpot here with all three that came with raisin bread and a variety of candied/spiced nuts that were superb. MIDNIGHT MOON was a hard goat from Holland that had a spicy bite, CANA DE OVEJA a superb and slightly creamy in the center sheep from Spain and the heavenly COWGIRL CREAMERY RED HAWK (cow) from California that is a rich triple creme style yet tangy treat.

We left feeling that the crowds and lack of good service would not bring us back again, especially with so many new spots like this opening all over like ENOLOGY near the Cathedral where we have had great wine and need to go back for more!

INDEBLEU inspiring new cuisine conquers

We had not been to INDEBLEU (http://www.indebleu.net/) at 707 G Street, NW in the Penn Quarter in some time, and changes are rampant there. The entire dining room has been redone as has the upstairs bar, and more changes are being made as I write. The biggest change however is the welcome addition of Chef MICHAEL HARTER who has kept the basic Indian modern style, but ramped up the dishes to a new level that outshines many of the standards they had for years (in the past it sometimes did get a bit too much of the same thing).

Right now they are extending RESTAURANT WEEK with a spectacular menu of choices for $29.09 at dinner!!! This is such a steal, we ordered many ala carte items and paid only pennies extra to enjoy more. Seven of us went the other night and it was not only a truly special and festive occasion, but it was a dining revelation for us ALL!

We started with a bottle of HUBER GRUNER VELTLINER 2007 which was an intense apple experience in the nose and mouth and a fun aperitif, especially with the spicy flatbread.

Our first course in this long and enjoyable evening (we were there for over 3 hours!) was a TORCHON of FOIR GRAS brined in SAUTERNE with Cocoa nib, orange segment and espalette chili with pistachio crumbs (a larger appetizer version of this is on the menu for $15, not in the Restaurant Week menu, but ask and they might let you pay a surcharge!). It was a divine rich and yes, chocolaty dish and excellently paired with a BERGSTROM 2006 Dr. BERGSTROM RIESLING from
Oregon that had just a slight sweetness, but lots of acidity to "fight" with the sweetness of the dish and make a perfect match.

The most popular appetizer choice was the LUMP CRAB FRITTERS with Curried Cognac Remoulade which were quite tasty. The MAINE MUSSELS were in a very Spicy Provencal Red Curry with Lime, Cilantro and Garlic Crouton and also a tasty treat. We had moved on to a QUPE Marsanne/Rousanne 2007 from Santa Ynez Valley in California which is quite nice, but frankly lacks the great integrity of a true Rhone white. It did go nicely with my DIVER SCALLOP "PORCUPINES" which were
huge scallops in LEMONGRASS & CURRY CAULIFLOWER Puree with Black Pepper Raisin Coulis. You could really have two dishes here with each sauce, or combine them for a third flavor. The scallops were topped with a "prickly straw basket" which had been deep fried (gosh I think it was onions) and made for a fun presentation to look like porcupines.

The AHI TARTAR came with Sweet Pepper Mousse, Jalapeno Raita and a Papadom which was another tasty treat and hit.

Next came the soup of the day, ROASTED CHESTNUT with SHALLOTS, Smoked Bacon, Curried Peanuts made from a mushroom stock so that it was creamy, yet had the chestnut essence. We all were in ecstasy over this brilliant creation (also on the Rest. Week menu) and the only thing we were not crazy about was the yummy LUSTAU P.X. (Pedro Ximenes) Sherry San Emilio Solera Reserve that it was paired with as it was a bit too sweet and slightly stole the show from the unreal soup!

We switched to red were thrilled with a CHIANTI CLASSICO 2001 Pieve di Spaltenna as we needed a big tasty Sangiovese; almost everyone seemed to order the delicious DRY RUBBED STEAK "Au Poivre" which had a Turkish Spice Rub, Green Chili Sauce and "Home Fries." Other choices were all superb such as the SHRIMP & COCONUT RISOTTO with peppers, onions, ginger & basmati rice cooked in coconut milke with ROCK SHRIMP Stirfry and a Mango Lime Beurre Blanc...wow.

I still think the hit of the main courses was my FRIED CHICKEN which was the moistest buttermilk jerk brined breast with "Bajan" Corn Pudding, Baby Bok Choy and Pineapple Hot Sauce. This was NOT a sweet tasty, but a superbly tasty one with many wonderful and intense flavors that combined for a blissful breast.

Chef Hartzer has introduced new desserts (an odd named Spaghetti & Meat Balls which is saffron cardamom ice cream and gulab jamun) but we opted for the CHOCOLATE COVERED "BANANA" a banana mousse with chocolate ganache and chocolate ice cream which any chocoholic would have adored. APPLE BEIGNETS were with BRIE ICE CREAM (this deserves an award by itself) and Candied Pineapple and many folks went for the SOME MORE, another chocoholic treat this with Molten Chocolate Cake, Marshmallow Ice Cream and Candied Banana. I went light with the MANGO A TROIS which was a Mango Mousse, Marshmallow, "Tini" and BERRY SALAD. The tini actually being a schnapps and vodka MANGO tini. YUM YUM!

After all this we popped the cork on a yummy RONCO di MIELE 2003 Dessert wine from TENUTA SANTA ANA in Italy that was the perfect way for us to finish what was truly a perfect meal for all of us!

Ardeo's awesome brunch bowls me over

Most of you know we don't do brunch too often, but we had a certificate which came as part of an auction item we purchased last year, so off we headed with a friend and her daughter (almost age 4) to ARDEO (www.ardeorestaurant.com) in Cleveland Park for brunch today.

We had not been to ARDEO in some time and it has been redecorated and has a new chef and things are doing great. The brunch package is $25 and includes a choice of any appetizer and main course from the menu as well as pretty decent unlimited Mimosas, champagne or o.j. (they use J. Roget sparkling.

We ordered Sam up the burger which was a huge and yummy juicy one to boot (he ate about 2/3 of the meat) and called CHAR BROILED NATURAL BEEF BURGER on the menu and comes with SPICY TOMATO RELISH (yum), SMOKED BACON, Cheddar Cheese (a slice of barely melted and looks processed on top of the burger; quality needs improvement here) and Hand Cut Fries. I find the term "natural" so odd as nobody seemed to
know what it meant. It was not "organic," but our pleasant and helpful server Katherin suggested it meant "free-range." the though of its opposite "unnatural" as a choice was daunting. The fries were spiced nicely a bit and it was a bit hit.

His 4-year old date had the scrambled eggs and was not too thrilled, but they were simply a special kids order...this place really caters to its menu and not kids.
There were yummy chocolate scones, corn bread and muffins as well.

The appetizers were also huge and tasty: SMOKED TROUT and POTATO SALAD with Chopped Egg, Fine Herbs and Capers was more like a potato and fish pate and needed only some tasty crostini to spread the yummy spread on. ROASTED BEETS came with GOAT CHEESE MOUSE, Orange Scented Marshmallows (an odd choice), Sicilian Candied Pistachios and was again a big hit. My STEAMED MUSSELS in Cider Vinegar with Shaved Fennel & Thyme was again a monstrous portion with a superb creamy broth that I had to drink up (they give you a spoon) full of huge plump tasty mollusks.

The main courses were just as good and leave you so full dessert is not an option. There are many choices and we had the SPICY FENNEL SAUSAGE FRITTATA as well as the GRANDANINA PASTA which is a Sardinian COUSCOUS cooked Risotto-style with "foraged mushrooms and roasted squash." The mushrooms were all tasty wild variants, some quite large and shapely and the dish was quite rich and yes, VERY filling.

Home now, I think I need a nap...

still lovin' LOCANDA on Capitol Hill

This past Sunday a group of us headed to Capitol to return to LOCANDA (633 PA Ave, SE-www.locandadc.com) where chef Brian Barszcz and his charming wife Tammy are running the show. Indeed, all of us were thoroughly entertained with virtually every element of our evening. Locanda is a local bistro or trattoria style spot with simple decor and while the food is the star, the crystal is elegant Schott and the service is attentive. We started with a bottle of RUSTICO NINO FRANCO PROSECCO to celebrate a dear friend's recital that had just been completed. We moved on to a SPERO VALPOLICELLA 2005 Classico Superiore "Sant Urbano" that was a big wine needing food more than sipping alone. The star wine of the evening was a magnum of ISOLE e OLEANA 2003 CEPPARELLO which we got for a deal as it had been opened the night before. This did nothing at all to detract from the silky smooth Sangiovese that we all adored! The Moretti Draft Beer also got a rave from one of us who chose to go the beer route.

The appetizers included my creamy rich MANCHEGO & CARAMELIZED ONION SOUP with Crispy Prosciutto. If you think the consistency of a superb Chestnut Soup, that is what this was but with intense onion flavor and that punch or rich tangy Manchego cheese.

ARANCANI were wild mushrooms served with truffle oil and the simple OLIVES come warm and spicy to the table making them irresistible. The BEET Salads were popular as well as we all devoured our food with glee.

A plate of complimentary CROSTINI with a tangy ROMESCU Sauce and Manchego Cheese was a nice in-between course and we proceeded to our big main courses: MINT PAPPARDELLE with LAMB Ragu, Gaeta Olives and Parmesan had only a hint of mint and did not overpower. Chef Brian easily knows his pasta and makes it all and should win an award for just that. The PENNE ALL'ARRABBIATA and the ORECCHIETE with BROWN CAULIFLOWER, Swiss Chard, Garlic and Peperoncini were hits along with the superb special of ROASTED BEET RAVIOLI with CHIVE Butter (a dish that seems to appear every now and then on the "ravioli of the day").

I had the DUCK LEG CONFIT with Spiced Red Cabbage, Glazed TURNIP & Vincotto (I never did find out what that was!) which was dreamy, moist and tasty. The veggies were both of the most supreme quality.

A couple of desserts rounded the table with CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT CAKE, a tasty MEYER LEMON PANNA COTTA and a to die for BRANDIED CHERRY BREAD PUDDING that was actually light and crisp rather than heavy and intense. We all enjoyed a bottle of sparkly sweet BRACHETTO D'ACQUI 2006 "Passione" from Coppo and some superb spice cookies arrived as we filled our full tummies even more.

I can guarantee that while the folks may not be Italian here, they sure know exactly how to put on an Italian feast!

no raves on Restaurant Week menu- a bit tepid at TEATRO GOLDONI

As you should know, Washingtonians are enjoying RESTAURANT WEEK here through this coming Sunday. Last night we returned to TEATRO GOLDONI (www.teatrogoldoni.com) in downtown DC on K Street for the special 3-course $35.09 dinner menu. In past reviews of Restaurant week I have praised many dining spots for their inventive and varied menus; some even offer almost everything off their regular menus. I have also slammed some fine dining spots for offering such limited menus, that one wants to order off the regular menu at sometimes twice the price (but that is NOT the point of Restaurant Week).

Returning to Teatro Goldoni after many years had bittersweet memories now that our dear friend Fabrizio Aielli and his wife Ingrid have sold the spot and moved to Naples, Florida (where they have opened Sea Salt which we adored on January 1 of this year!). Recent changes at Teatro have brought back another friend, Chef ENZO FARGIONE who ran BAROLO on Capitol Hill for so many years, so we were very excited about seeing an old friend in his new digs!

We brought Samuel with us as well as our dear friends Mel & Juan and went in really expecting a treat, but left a bit sour. There is no question that the menu at Teatro Goldoni is dreamy, indeed, we ordered a portion of pasta off the regular menu for Samuel: RIGATONI with Homemade Sausage, Broccoli and Fresh Tomato Sauce which he adored. The main course portion was huge (we had asked for a half portion and got a whole--they had to cut the price when the check came with the full amount!) and we all tasted a bit, as there was no way Samuel would finish it, even though he thought it was superb (and it was!).

The wine list at Teatro has stars from $35 to way up in the $1K zone; something for everyone. We drank two bottles of superb fresh tasty SALVIANO ORVIETO 2006 from Umbria; a real bargain at $35! It makes for a great aperitif and goes with lighter dishes as well like our starters. We asked for a red wine (Negroamaro/Cab combo), but they were out and sent over a MONTEPULCIANO d'ABRUZZO 2003 from Bosco Nestore called BOSCO PAN instead that is 85% Montepulciano and 15% Cab making for a nice medium to full bodied red, great with bigger dishes as well as lighter ones. Oddly, when the bill came, the price was wrong and it took TWO trips to get it straightened out.

So far, everything was pretty good, it was with the set menu that we lost interest.

There were only two choices for starters and desserts and three choices for main courses; hardly a decent selection. What was sad was that little or no love went into the construction or creation of these dishes compared to the superb Rigatoni.

SUSHI STYLE CAESAR Salad Roulade with Olive Oil Soaked Bread Crumb Dust and Chive Mustard Sauce and Roasted Parmesan Cubes was a sad attempt at something inventive, but bland. The lettuce came in a thick wrap sliced up and the highlight of the dish was the four excellent mini-cubes of parmesan.

WARM BABY SPINACH FOAM SQUARE over FONDUE of Soft Tuscan PECORINO CHEESE, Crispy Sweet Onion and Ragu of CAPONATA Style EGGPLANT with Tomato Filet and Black Olives sounds and was indeed delicious, but sadly the portion was quite small, let's say about two-three times the size of an amuse..which by the way there was none of.

So with one hit appetizer we went on to the main courses which included a third fish option nobody tried:

GIANT RAVIOLI PASTA filled with PORCINI Mushroom, Potato & Thyme in a Roagu of Roasted SHRIMP and Warm Broccoli Mayonaise was indeed just one giant ravioli, and again quite a skimpy portion. I also found it odd that the menu called it "ravioli pasta," when pasta is really not needed in the description! It was quite delicious, but one square that was about 3x3 inches hardly filled the bill.

The rest of us opted for the ROASTED STUFFED VEAL with Mushroom Potatoes & Rosemary in a Port RED WINE Reduction and Sauteed Spinach. The dish was well conceived and the portion size decent, but sadly the meat was quite chewy and tough.

When asked by both our waiter and the manager how our food was, we indulged and told them both of our displeasure with the quality of the meat and the size of the ravioli portion; they barely apologized, and I guess that is where I felt something had gone wrong. I know it's Restaurant Week, but that is not an excuse for bad service and no reparation when things go wrong.

The highlight of the meal and a true treat were the desserts: ALMOND CAKE in CARAMEL SAUCE with Cappuccino of Mascarpone & Rum Cream Custard was a wonderful combination of visual and flavorful ingredients.

VANILLA/ORANGE PANNACOTTA "Sunny Side Up" was a perfectly created vanilla panna cotta with two orange "eggs" in the center; a playful treatment and one that was simply delicious as well.

Four small glasses of limoncello came and placated us a bit. We KNOW that the quality of the regular menu at TEATRO GOLDONI is tops and hope to return soon when Chef Enzo can prove this to us as he did dozens and dozens of times at Barolo in the past. As far as the Restaurant Week menu goes, avoid it.

Indeed, we probably will avoid the rest of Restaurant Week anyway!

yummy YAKU (Arlington,VA) fuses Asian and Latin lovely

After a concert in Virginia with a bunch of friends, we decided to take them and Samuel to a new spot near Courthouse called YAKU that opened late last year (http://www.latinconcepts.com/yaku). While the address is 2001 N. 15th St, beware that the entrance is on Clarendon Blvd. at the corner of Scott and 16th Streets. It is a simple space and has friendly warm service with a menu that tends to lean Asian with some Latin infusion. Yaku is from the Incan Quechua language and means water.

The wines are nice and we chose a FOLIE A DUEX SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006 with mild citrus flavors and a RAVENSWOOD 2006 LODI ZIN from Sonoma both of which were strong enough to stand up to the spices in the dishes as well as to blend with the milder dishes.

Samuel chose the main course of Sauteed NOODLES with CHICKEN, Onion, Snow Peas, Peppers and Sprouts which he immediately declared as "Yummy in my tummy." Samuel also reported back on the facilities (I never managed to check them out) saying that he loved the way the sink glowed green!

We ordered a large variety of dishes (we were 8 people) from the least impressive LEMON GRASS CHICKEN SKEWERS marinated in curry-coconut milk and served with a mange-jalapeno sauce that just did not cover the dried out texture of the meat. There was no dish that one could call small, so any choice would easily fill you up from the tasty DUCK ROLL which is really a crepe to the huge portion of filling (stir-fried carrots, onion, mushroom, cellophane noodles and choice of meat or tofu) that comes with the LETTUCE WRAPS (move over PF CHANGS!). The STUFFED YUCCA CROQUETTES and three large cheese filled and oh so creamy rich gems with a superb and slightly spicy HUANCAYNA Sauce(?). The CEVICHE CALIENTE is an odd dish in that it is not really ceviche. It is in reality small cubes of MAHI-MAHI flash fried and served with AJI PEPPERS, CILANTRO, topped with SALSA CRIOLLA (a bit spicy) in a large WONTON CUP. It was tasty and I loved the spicy salsa, but it needs a different name (our server was very clear that it was NOT ceviche).

Our server steered us away from the SECO de CANE, a Peruvian stew which she said was way too cilantro intense and suggested the ASIAN BEEF SHORT RIBS as the number one beef dish. This was not a large portion, but the 48-hour marinated and cooked in Chinese BBQ sauce with a superb and large side of STIR-FRY VEGGIES and White Rice was quite tasty.

The AJI di GALLINA was a pulled chicken served in a very rich AJI AMARILLO CREAM over POTATOES with Parmesan Cheese. This dish is indeed so rich, it is better shared by 2 or 3 people (all the dishes do indeed share easily). Similarly the AJI DE CAMARONES are large tasty shrimp in the same sauce with a hint of cilantro as well.

The table gets four sauces at the start of the meal and when we asked the guy who brought them what they were, he kind of pointed to the waitress. Will said he was too pretty to explain! We tasted and sprang back from the super-spicy SIRACHA paste that was indeed nothing but the hot chiles.The others were simple soy, hoisin (plum) and a sweet and sour style.

Sam loved the PAPAYA and COCONUT Gelatos and we all went home quite happy to know that there is a new Asian fun spot not too far away (just 3 minutes from Key Bridge!).

BOCCA di BACCO on NYC's West Side filled my bocca!

The other day I met my friend Scott for an early supper before the opera in NYC. He recommended a place called BOCCA DI BACCO at 828 Ninth Avenue and 54th Street (www.boccadibacconyc.com) which was luckily empty at just before 5pm on Valentine's Day. The hostess did say she needed the table at about 630pm, and we were fine with that.

BOCCA di BACCO has an amazing wine list, but you will need a flashlight to read it (your waiter should have one!) and they could improve the light levels just a bit. The menu is Italian at its best and very reasonably priced with large portions to boot. This may be THE NEW FIND of the Theater District! The tables are simple wood and the place is casual, yet intimate and warm.

Scott was not eating alot, but loved his heavy (great on a cold night) FAVA BEAN SOUP. I was hungry and chose the HERB GRILLED OCTOPUS with Celery and Red Potato Salad. The portion was indeed HUGE with large chunks of tender octopus (and one whole tentacle as well) all grilled to a crispy tasty crunch on the outside. The celery was just braised so it was not too hard and the potato salad was light and not creamy enough to invade on the taste of the octopus.

We had a superb bottle of "Super Tuscan" 2004 "Rosso del Pievano" from LA PIEVE that was $52 and a great bargain. Many of the wines here are in the $30 and range up into the hundreds; something for everyone. This was a medium to full bodied red that opened up perfectly within several minutes and went well with almost any medium bodied food from say octopus to pasta to meat to heavier fish.

Speaking of pasta I had the special of PUMPKIM RAVIOLI in SAGE BUTTER with Asparagus which was again a monstrous portion of large raviolis stuffed thick with tasty pumpkin and layered with fried sage leaves for extra flavor. It suffered only slightly from the excessive use of butter and would have been perfect with just half of the same sauce.

The coffee was yummy and I look forward to returning as there were so many wonderful dishes on the menu that called out to me! See you at BOCCA di BACCO sometime soon!

ME JANA in Arlington gets hig marks for Middle-Eastern

ME JANA (www.me-jana.com) opened a little over a year ago on Clarendon Blvd. smack in the center of the Courthouse neighborhood in Arlington and is a true gem of a find for Middle-Eastern cuisine at reasonable prices. Children are welcome, the ambience is fine with subdued lighting, cozy banquettes (with leather pillows) and some bright modern art. The neighborhood can be crowded, but there is free parking on evenings and weekends in an underground lot on the side street. Do be aware that Me Jana (named for a Lebanese welcome ballad) has a Wilson Blvd address with the entrance around the corner on Clarendon! We started with a bottle of crisp tasty KSARA Blanc de Blancs from Lebanon which goes well with many of the tasty appetizers, which was what we decided to make our entire meal up of.

The two boys chose the SALMON main course which was seared with a tahini type sauce underneath (of course, Samuel said he would not touch ANY of the fish that had touched the sauce!) and a superb Orange and Fennel Salad on the side, which neither of the boys ate, but we all gobbled up! You will recall I am not a fennel fan, but here the seasoning and the mildness of the fennel made it just perfect.

Our appetizer choices were, for the most part, all top notch, and what is nice is that many of the items are vegetarian or available as a vegetarian dish.

Rice-filled GRAPE LEAVES come with a light POMEGRANATE MOLASSES coating and are superbly tangy and tasty.

ZUCCHINI FRITTERS made with egg white, scallions, Manchego cheese and a touch of mint are crispy on the outside and almost decadently rich and creamy from the cheese on the inside. SEARED HALOUMI CHEESE is just bronzed and warm and served with seared PEARS & DATES (a few more slices of date would have been nice). The firm cheese is tasty and not rich making for a balance with some of the other cheesier items.

SPINACH PIES are on the richer side and come in a "hamantaschen" tri-corn shape and hence are more like empanadas when it comes to the "pie" as opposed to the traditional phyllo crust. Also rich are the creamy POTATO KIBBE (veggie option here) made with burghul, feta, pine nuts and served with one of the best BABA GHANOUJ DIPS(eggplant paste) that I have ever had!

The meat version of the KIBBE are also FRIED with beef, lamb, burghul and onion filling but served with the tart LABNEH (yogurt) DIP which is a nice foil. If you don't like yogurt, avoid the meat kibbe as they can be dry on their own and are truly "made" by the LABNEH. By this time we had moved on to a reasonably priced tasty L. de LYETH 2006 Sonoma County CABERNET SAUVIGNON which is another pretty good wine to pair with most of the varied choices.

Will was feeling a bit "meaty" and asked to try the BEEF PIES which were sadly a bit on the dry side. All they needed was some of that tasty Baba Ghanouj or another sauce to dip in!

I must give credit here to Post critic Tom Sietsema whose review we used from Feb '08 for Me Jana. While many of the things HAVE changed (the grape leaves were NOT cold), his basic info is quite good. We did stick to the tasty dips, appetizers and gorgeous fluffy warm pillow shaped pita, and avoided the main courses except for the boys.

He did say that we should mention to co-owner/co-chef Rabih Abi-Aad (and we also did to our server, who was a bit slow each time we tried to order) that we were first-time patrons and "there's the chance a glass of sweet wine will appear after dessert...Show up again, and the kitchen might send out a few desserts for the table to share." Well, I guess Mr. Siestsema's chances of this were better than ours!

All told, Me Jana offers a large varied menu and lots of fun for folks out for a good Middle Eastern jaunt!

Chef Rock rates high at DC's new NEXT DOOR

What does one do after being the winner of the heinous TV competition HELL's KITCHEN by the even more heinous Gordon Ramsey. Well, Chef Rahman "ROCK" HARPER took the job offered in Vegas for a year, made lots of "star" appearances" and the returned home to his roots and opened a great new truly American bistro NEXT DOOR (1211 U St, NW) to Ben's Chili Bowl, another true dining classic here in Washington. We were headed to a show at the Lincoln Theatre (also next door!) and popped in for a quick meal to find Chef Rock in Los Angeles (star chefs have to go to LA, don't they?), but leaving his barely opened restaurant in the best of hands. His manager, Rob, who also hails from near Fredericksburg, VA, Chef's grooming ground, gives a southern lilt as he welcomes you into the long narrow and slightly noisy rooms. At the front is a long bar with five flat screen TV's (alternating between sports and CNN last night) as well as tall tables with stools. All the tables and chairs are simple dark woods and the decor is not remarkable, this is a food and bar destination. The bar serves the regular menu as well as some items off the menu from Ben's Chili Bowl next door, should you be in the mood for a chili dog and want to be with a larger group with places to sit.

The rear room is not too large, and only reservations for groups are accepted at this point, so do plan ahead. I think the best spot if you want a bit more quiet is the small raised mezzanine at the rear perched above the kitchen. The kitchen is below this a la "split-level" and can only be seen through the swinging door by several tables at the rear of the lower dining area.

Our server, "T," was a gem. He told us we were in good hands and would make our 8pm curtain (we sat down at 645pm) with NO TROUBLE. He was right on all counts and exuded friendliness and was a great help as well. He recommended the superb MENAGE A TROIS (red blend of Zinfandel, Merlot & Cab) 2007 from Folie a Duex Winery in Napa that had a distinct burnt caramel flavor from the Zin (think of Tofanelli Vineyard Zins); it is not a spicy, but a smooth wine that goes quite well with many dishes.

"T" recommended the CREAMY CRAB CHOWDER with Potato, Sweet Corn, Carrots, Cajun Spice and Beef Bacon that packs a slight punch from the spice to my great delight. It is far from bisque or too creamy, which I loved, somewhere between a medium bodied soup and chowder with a very light cream base. There were chunks of crab and the beef bacon was oh so tasty.

Will opted for ROCK's CRAB CAKE which was a deliciously cooked crispy topped version made of virtually 100% crab and came with a SOUR CREAM REMOULADE which Will wished for more of! This may be a big contender for DC's top ten crabcake list!

For my main course, I followed "T's" lead and chose the ROASTE CHICKEN with ROSEMARY MAPLE SUACE, Caramelized Shallot QUINOA and GREEN BEANS. It was a thigh and leg cooked perfectly and oh so moist with the tastiest of crunchy maple-y skins, but not a super exciting piece of chicken overall. The moist quinoa and perfectly herbed and cooked beans were absolutely perfect and made the dish a BIG HIT with me. Will hit the jackpot with the DUCK FRICASSEE with Roasted Mushrooms, Shallots, Parsnip & GNOCCHI which actually is more like a southern style stew with tasty herbs and yummy gnocchi; think southern fricasseed duck confit.

"T" insisted we had to grab a piece of COCONUT CREAM CAKE before we left, so we split the superbly created 4 layer cake loaded with fresh coconut, white icing, lemon curd, and a small circle of creme anglaise and red fruit puree dots on the plate. The cake was moistly divine and was just the right size for two people as we headed next door for our show right on time!

We look forward to returning to see our friend Chef Rock in action in the kitchen when he returns from his whirlwind of engagements! Until then, it looks like the U Street revitalization is doing quite well restaurant-wise, even in this poor economy as NEXT DOOR was jammed last night!