Friday, March 20, 2009

NYC's CONVIVIO comes to James Beard House

I always enjoy going to James Beard House for a meal and had the opportunity to lunch there on Friday where Chef CRAIG WALLEN of NYC's Italian gem CONVIVIO (www.convivionyc.com) was in residence. He made some quite good impressions, especially in the pasta department, and I had the pleasure of dining with some wonderful new friends including Tony Award winner Billy Crudup!

Upon arrival we were treated to a yummy 2007 Tunuta di Serra Marrocco IL GRILLO del BARONE which is a crisp tasty Sicilian white that is perfect with all the different passed treats we had: FEGATINI-Rustic Chicken Liver on Crostini smothered with Caramelized Marsala Onions (my fave) SAFFRON ARANCINI those delectable deep-fried risotto balls Stracciatella with Burrata, Tomato & Basil which had some yummy runny Buratta on a slice of way too crunchy crostini that really stole the show from the superb cheese

We sat down to VILLA DORA LACRYMA CHRISTI del VESUVIO Vigna del Vulcano 2004 that not one of us could guess the varietal for. One of the guys at our table who is a food chemical aroma consultant said it was very "barny" and all I could think of was the big purple guy (so much for having a 5-year old!). He was actually correct as the wine was so strong in the nose, but actually perfect with the SARDINIAN SAFFRON GNOCCHETTI with Crab & Sea Urchin an intensely flavorful pasta with shreds of crab and the essence (bot not the meat) of the urchin.

Our second pasta was FUSILLI with Neapolitan Pork Shoulder RAGU and CACIOCAVALLO FONDUTA. I had to ask the chef later on what "caciocavallo" meant as I know the roots "cacio" from hunt and "cavallo" is horse. Well, he said it really means the horse's balls. OOPS! No matter, it was another superb pasta dish and served with a bit too light red (or was it rose?) for me VIO GIOBATTA U BASTIO ROSSESE di ALBEGNA 2007. That was the problem with this wine, none of us knew if it was rose or red, and it had characters of both but lacked much integrity to be defined.

The red wine was a superb LA CIPRIANA SAN MARTINO BOLGHERO ROSSOS SUPERIORE 1999 and was served with a nice SCOTTADITO di AGNELLO - Grilled Lamb Chops with Salsa Verde, Escarole and Beans, and while quite tasty, I thought my Rack of Lamb at home was a better dish.

The dessert was a Tartaletta of PISTACHIO BRULEE with Orange Sorbet and Candied Pistachios (I couldn't find any of these) which was yummy, yummy, yummy and served with an uneventful BERA MOSCATO d'ASTI 2007.

It was a great meal overall and a most rewarding afternoon.