Saturday, March 21, 2009

more bravos for NYC's BAR BOULUD across from Lincoln Center

Last night in between operas at the Met I traipsed across the street from Lincoln Center to return to BAR BOULUD at 1900 Broadway which I wrote about after its opening just over a year ago. It is a gem of a bistro and when I go here, I eat small plates or appetizers rather than heading to the larger main courses. It allows for fun and variety and last night my server Jenna steered me right at every juncture. I started with two specials: PURPLE ANZINO ARTICHOKES and PECORINO Salad with Arugola. THe salad had soft slices of tasty cheese on the bottom, piles of greens with a lemony vinaigrette and lots of shaved thin slices of the baby purple chokes. A perfect salad and what a change from the awful frisee (that's on many other items on the menu).

I ordered a flight of 3 2 ounce reds: KINGSTON FARMS PINOT NOIR 2007 from Casablanca Valley in the north of Chile. This is a great fruit forward tasty Pinot that has body and goes with so may foods; a true find.

ARGIANO ROSSO di MONTALCINO 2006 was very earthy and craved for food. It was perfect with my second item: STUFFED PORTUGUESE SARDINES with Roasted Peppers, Braised Spinach and a small side salad of Chorizo, Arugola, Marinated Red and Yellow Peppers and White Beans. The fish came coiled up with the tail stuffed through the mouth; it was adorable. The two sardines were literally stuffed to the gills and oh so tasty and not salty at all. My third wine was an amazing 1996 CHATEAU d'ISSAN (Bordeaux) "Blason d'Issan" that was as smooth as a Margaux gets and I adored drinking this alone between courses. I HAVE TO FIND IT NOW!

I forgot to mention the tasty peppery GOUGERES that come after you order and the wonderful French bread served with top quality butter pats sprinkled with coarse salt.

I described the decor last time, but if you are three or more folks try to get a booth as the chairs at the tables are not tres confortable. And while the music can get loud, it's not awful as some places can be. Obviously being across from Lincoln Center the place tends to empty at 730pm before all the curtains! A little treat was sent out from the chef next and was indeed a treat: CRISPY PORK BELLY with homemade MUSTARD. There was one piece of hard cartilage at the top of once piece..which I mistook for meat, but luckily did not swallow. The meat was amazing and the mustard a treat as well. OH SO CRISPY and tasty and what a nice surprise.

I finished my Bordeaux and went on to a glass of tasty PAUL JABOULET "Les Terassess" CORNAS 2004 from the Rhone that is another great wine for so many of these bistro dishes.

My next course was the GARBURE de CANARD, a Gascon Duck-style soup that had Winter Root Veggies (Cabbage, Beans) and some shreds of tasty Duck Confit. This is a great winter soup and it was below 40 in NYC last night, so a good and filling choice. The soup is not thick or huge, so even a white wine would work with it, although any nice red will do.

The last appetizer I chose was again Jenna's idea: TORTE DE CANARD was a brilliant pate en croute of duck, foie gras and figs with the flakiest of crusts multi-layered to perfection, homemade mustard, cornichons and pickled baby pearl onions; another gem of charcuterie that I would never find elsewhere. The wine was perfection with this to boot (thanks Jenna).

I opted for some cheeses to finish (despite the fact that Boulud's LA DIVA RENEE dessert was on the menu and I was headed to hear Renee Fleming (for whom it is named) sing)-- and chose three: Old and Hard 12 month old CABOT CLOTHBOUND CHEDDAR was intense, nutty and flavorful GRES de VOSGES (under the STINKY heading) was a semi-soft earthy and slightly smelly cheese which was great with the nutty bread, but not at the level of the L'AMI DU CHAMBERTIN an Epoisses-like runny living unpasturized gem served in a bowl that I adored

Kudos to Chef Damian Samsonetti and even Baker Mark Fiorentino and the entire friendly, generous and accommodating staff. It was a great meal.