It has been some years since we dined at Citronelle and while the restaurant is now only open for dinner Tues-Sat, it still retains its air of haute cuisine and delivers on all counts.
michel Richard could not be seen (well, he was not there) from our prime table next to the kitchen window, but his Executive Chef David Deshaies is obviously doing everything right in his absence. The staff from manager Jean-Jacques all the way down do their jobs with flair and class making for an even finer dining experience. We started with a bottle of CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET "Pot Bois" Domaine Lamy Pillot which the menu listed as 2005, but had switched to the
newer (and less desirable?) 2006. It was a yummy chard with lots of mineral and only the slightest touch of new oak; what a treat.
We missed sommelier Mark Slater who just departed after what must be more than a decade to Rays the Steaks (good luck!).
The TRIO of AMUSES was indeed amusing and superb:
A MINI TACO with FLOUNDER CEVICHE style
Poached Grilled EGG with BASIL Olive Oil
GNOCCHI of Spinach in a splash of divine cream sauce
We chose to order ala carte rather than the tasting menu and had the NANTUCKET BAY SCALLOPS with Calamari, Corn (popcorn and corn straw and corn sauce) which was fun and just delicious. Will declared his starter as the BEST ON EARTH: LOBSTER "BEGULA" Pasta is actually a pearl pasta dyed with Squid Ink to look like Beluga Caviar and served atop HUGE CHUNKS of LOBSTER in a Caviar-like tin with the stamp of Michel Richard on the top. Not only is the presentation cute, the taste is simply DIVINE, and an amazing pairing with the Montrachet!
Next came a treat of PEA SOUP with PANCETTA, and a QUAIL EGG on top enclosed in straw-like potato wrap. I don't know how they cooked the potato and the egg inside it or which came first (it's like the chicken and the egg joke!), but it was superb.
We had moved on to a huge McLaren Vale Shiraz from MITOLO VINEYARDS in Australia -G.A.M. 2005 that had everything anyone could want in a Shiraz and went beyond perfectly with the PRIME SHORT RIBS braised 72 hours (sous bis--remember that's what made Carla Hall lose TOP CHEF!) in an unreally delicious RAISIN-PEPPERCORN Sauce with Zucchini, Carrots, Rutabaga and a Pot of Fingerling Potato Cassoulet (which was ok).
The VEAL THREE WAYS had shortbreads, cheek and shank and was another Winner of a dish. Warning: the short ribs must be ordered for two or more people and
actually can serve three or more (we took home an entire portion!).
The pre-dessert was the only unremarkable thing all night: ORANGE MOUSSE with Black Cherry Sauce and Pistachio
The desserts, as always, were a highlight. Chef Richard began as a pastry chef and has not lost the interest. The TATIN-LIKE APPLE was Caramelized with Ice Cream, the BLUE CHEESE CAKE with DULCE de LECHE SAUCE and my CREME BRULEE with Petals, FRESH FRUIT, PASSION FRUIT SAUCE and Mixed Berries were all simply divine.
As if this were not enough a plate of Mignardises included Chocolate & Pear, a yummy CRUNCHY RASPBERRY and Chocolate Dusted Crunchy GRAPES with Truffle Coating.
Needless to say we went home VERY FULL.
