Last night I popped up to NY for a quick visit and decided to try ESCA, the Italian seafood bistro at 402 W 43rd St. (very close to Times Square - www.esca-nyc.com). Almost 9 years old, this not too exciting design-wise spot is the creation of Dave Pasternack, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich. While I am not a "name" chef fan, these guys have created and maintained a gem for sure.
The walls are unadorned except for light scones and cubby holes filled with upright wine bottles (I guess they don't mind storing all the wine incorrectly!). As I sat down I noticed a small party in the corner window table headed by none other than Tony Bennett, who seemed to be a regular and enjoying himself quite alot.
I sat down and perused the menu with a glass of CINQUE TERRE Bianco "Marea" (blend of Bosco(grapes, not the chocolate sauce),Vermentino and Albarola) 2007 from Bisson in Liguria which had mineral intensity, a lasting finish and piles of flavor. A piece of BRUSCHETTA came with CANNELONI BEANS & MACKEREL that was divine as were the soft small black fleshy olives resting in oil (which I later used for the focaccia).
I finally decided on the $75 tasting menu which was a bargain to boot when you consider how much I got, The only problem is that they allow no substitutions (and the whole table must order it if you are a group), and I really wanted the grouper instead of the swordfish....ESCA is famous for its CRUDO or raw fish selections and they all sounded divine. the first course of the tasting is one chosen by the chef and I was happy to get the HALIBUT BELLY in Extra Virgin
Sunflower Oil; rich, tasty and fleshy fish that would compete with sushi any day. They offer an upgrade as well for something like $25 extra if you want more crudo...I chose not, knowing how much was to follow.
BURRATA on CROSTINI with GRILLED SPRING RAMPS with ANCHOVY VINAIGRETTE was almost perfect. The bread was slightly burnt and was really anegative for the excellent cheese. I always feel buratta does not need bread...indeed, the ramps were an amazing pairing and the anchovy flavor not too intense for just the perfect dish (if it did not have the corstini!).
The wine prices by the glass are in the $12-24 range which seemed pricey to me, but then I discovered that each is really a carafe of almost two full glasses, making it a steal in NYC! My second wine was a CIAFRE ILLUMINATO from Abruzzo 2006 (a blend of Trebbiano, Passerina and Riesling). The "sommelier" (she was a person who served the food and wine, and took the wine orders) said the Riesling was minimal and the wine was an almost pale straw yellow with lots of flavors as well. The wine was divine with the GAMBERONI, Three medium-size head-on Santa Barbara SPOT PRAWNS with a Prosecco Vinaigrette. The prawns were halved and the meat came out easily and was quite sweet and tasty. The wine was also superb with the FUSILLU with MUSSELS & CLAMS in a Sauce of PEAS & GARLIC CHIVE, with lots of peppery aftertaste to boot, which the wine worked brilliantly to equalize.
As I mentioned my main fish was SPADA alla SICILIANI or swordfish with Beans and Broccoli-Rabe, Olive and oil in a thick stew-like sauce. The meat was grilled to perfection and served on top. The big fish deserved a red, so I had a VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO "Semonte Alto" 2005 from Venturini in the Veneto region (all the wines are Italian if I recall). which was another great choice for the fish and heavy dish.
I mentioned to my server that I am not a chocoholic, so when the dessert (chef's choice) came I had to admit I was a bit miffed with the albeit three large scoops of sorbet (kiwi, coconut-lemon and pineapple-passion fruit) with large waffle tuilles. The best part was the biscotti, cookies and brownies that came after. I would have appreciated a real idea of what the chef can do with pastry or dessert though.
I know that when I have to be near Times Square, Esca is worth the 5 block detour!
