We headed east back to Dorset to a lovely country house that belongs to
Relais et Chateaux, which we always know will be a treat. SUMMER LODGE (www.summerlodgehotel.com) has a beautiful
dining room and another gorgeous country garden setting. We enjoyed a triple
amuse to start of Mushroom Foam (not for Sam), Spinach & Ricotta Arancini
(fried risotto balls) with Dill Creme and a Ham Boudin with Sultana Puree.
Back in Dorset, Samuel could not resist returning to his favorite Roast
Loin of DORSET LAB here with a Braised Shoulder prepared a la "Shepherd's Pie,"
Savoy Cabbage & Rosemary Jus. The pie was amazing and rich like a lamb
bourgogne coated with buttery mashed potatoes. Sam did not care for that part
much, so Will and I gave in and devoured it.
Will started with the TARTAR of same said Dorset LAMB Fillet with Soft
Boiled Quail's Egg, Micro Greens and Worcestershire Reduction. It was a nice
preparation but quite salty for my taste. I had the Local WOOD PIDEGEON with
Globe Artichokes, Parsley Lemon Puree, Rape Seed Gremolata, & Cornish Coppa.
This is a dream dish in every bite and taste as there are so many flavors that
work together sublimely, and every taste is local. Even the crispy bacon-like
coppa is from Cornwall.
We enjoyed an amazing Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot 2007 Gevrey-Charmbertin
that worked with all our dishes thanks to the sommelier.
Breads arrived and were irresistible from the Onion Rolls to the Cheese
Rolls to the Granary as well as the Apricot & Rosemary White! The butters
were coarse Cornwall sea-salted and a cute tomato-shaped unsalted.
For our mains, Will had the Line Caught SEA BASS with Coriander Spiced
Fondant, Cauliflower Puree, Caper Berries & Balsamic. While a fish dish, it
was big and stood up brilliantly to the gorgeous Burgundy.
My Creedy Carver DUCK BREAST came rare and wins the prize for best tasting
duck breed I can ever recall. It was served with Warm Nectarine & Ginger
Chutney, Fine Beans, Mustard Cress and a Nectarine Butter Sauce.
We were very full, so we moved to dessert (yes, we skipped the cheese),
which was preceded by Vanilla Panna Cotta and Blackberry/Orange Compote as a
pre-dessert.
We decided to split the dessert assortment which was humongous and came
with English Strawberries, Jelly & Ice Cream, Pavlova, Shotcake & Sorbet
in one corner;
Lemon Verbena Ice Cream, Apricot Compote, Caramel Sauce and Apricot Sorbet
in the next corner; "Peach Melba" with Peach Souffle and Raspberry Espuma with
Vanilla Ice Cream in the third corner;
lastly came the Raspberry Macaroon, Milk Chocolate Mousse, Raspberry Confit
and Milk Chocolate Sorbet.
These were all very good, very sweet and way too much for two people.
Samuel wanted his own Macaroon/Mousse/Sorbet from the plate so he ordered a
separate dessert. The macaroon on his full portion was the size of a HAMBURGER
BUN!
We needed some silverware to cut up the portions, but the dining room had
emptied out and only one maitre d' was left. Sadly he was cornered by a food
critic who was telling him how to earn a Michelin star. I finally had to burst
out at the "critic" to let the guy help the clientele (us) so that indeed they
might get on with earning that star!
We finished up and left a bit upset from the silly man, but having had a
truly Michelin-star-worthy meal.
