My first night in London was the guest of the intimate 51 Buckhingham
Suites just around the corner from the palace. There are several dining options
in the complex, but as I adore Indian food, and QUILON (meaning "place"-www.quilon.co.uk) is also a Michelin-starred gem that I
knew I would adore.
Lots of modern art is mixed in with the dark wooden panels with a Middle
Eastern feel. Light wall panels made of blond sand dollars were novel. The music
was definitely Indian in feel, but quiet and soothing, making for a very "Zen"
setting indeed.
Puree of coconut-coriander and a tomato-onion sauce arrived with small
mini-papadams as well as bowls of lemon pickles (these had a fab spice mix
making them irresistible) , garlic & peppers pickles, and something else
also were spread in front of me. When I go to Indian restaurants, I am always in
a quandary as to how to use these excellent condiments, but I mixed them around
and made the best of it, as the food here is SouthWestern Indian and already
loaded with sublime spices.
Wine is also a big problem when spice is involved, but the manager
suggested an English Bacchus grape from FLINT HILL, Chapel Down in Kent that had
a floral nose, citrus, but was very dry with a white pepper aftertaste mixed
with green apple. It was perfect with the first dish, a seafood plate with
SCALLOP in MANGO CHILI and a CRABCAKE with Mustard Sauce. Micro greens in a
slightly spicy vinaigrette sat between the two. I immediately asked where the
local crab came from and was told they only use Scottish or Devon crab;
whichever it was very flavorful, moist and meaty.
The second course arrived and was a delightful mix of seas and land. BLACK
COD was gazed and mildly spiced to allow the excellent fleshy fish to shine.
Greens again appeared separating the cod from a shredded LAMB in tomato sauce
and spices on a banana leaf. The lamb was quite spicy but this dish was
accompanied by a plate with Malabar Paratha, a na'an like bread but here made
from refined butter and flour from South India that is thinner than na'an and
much crispier. It was the perfect mix with bits of the bread to calm the lamb.
Fred Loimer GRUNER VELTLINER 2012 "Lois" had a bit of a fizz and was a nice
foil, but worked best with he cod and not was well with the lamb.
A "palate cleanser" of Warm Spicy LENTIL SOUP appeared in a glass and I
promptly deemed it "Indian chicken soup." This is what I want the next time I
have the flu. It was thinner than a tomato soup, or lentil soup, but rich with
spices and flavors with a little sediment of lentil as the bottom as well.
MANGALOREAN CHICKEN CURRY was rich as could be and the large cast pot that
arrived was way to big for one person. Crispy OKRA was sliced long and deep
fried in rice flour and tumeric making it the best okra I can ever recall. This
needs to replace the ominipresent french fry! LEMON RICE is also flavored with
tumeric, lentil peas and mustard seed making it ever so exciting. I finally
discovered that the small leaves as garnish were curry leaves, although in their
fresh form they have a very unexciting flavor. 2010 La Reserve GROVER
Cabernet/Shiraz is from Bangalore in India and was my first Indian wine ever; it
was and excellent pairing.
The restaurant was quiet, but I was quite shocked to see a Japanese family
arrive all in shorts and t-shirts (at a fine dining Michelin
establishment).
Next came a true palate cleanser of creamy GINGER SORBET and then I chose
the BIBINCA & DODHOL with Vanilla Ice Cream which is a traditional Goan
dessert that I found fascinating. One is a thick coconut pancake with layers of
melted chocolate sauce and the other a dark "chocolate" looking wedge made from
palm jaggery (molasses) with condensed sugar giving it taste of a divine honey
cake yet soft and moist, not dry like we so often get at our Jewish holidays.
The vanillaice cream was infused with rose petals.
White cardamom chocolate and Rose milk chocolate wafers arrived and I took
a small ite of each, but they were quite sweet, so I proceeded back to my hotel
after a truly fab experience.
