Reykjavik, Iceland's DILL(Michelin-starred) does dinner deliciously (7-22-22)

 Our second night here in the nation' capital was a meal we had planned and re-planned for the last several years!! Ever since DILL won a Michelin star (the first in Iceland), it was on our radar. The concept is to use all local ingredients and also try to remain as sustainable as possible with no waste. The meal was a spectacular journey through Icelandic cuisine and we were nuts about virtually every bite.

The only option here is a tasting menu at 15,900IKS(approx $116US) and there are wine parings for an additional 13,900IKS($102 each). Will decided to add the glass of Olivier Horiot French Champagne "Metisse" for an extra $24 which was nice, but quite an overdose of bubbly for me. Nice Riedel stemware is used, but my only real qualm with the arrangement was that the silverware is placed on the table in a large canister and you take whatever you want. I guess this saves time for the staff setting it out, but there is a lack of glass and one knife was actually dirty!

Four amuses arrive first in the form of (1) a Raw Char Tartlet with Dehydrated Sheep-dung Smoked Trout(!!), (2)Vegetable soup made over 4 days from leftover veggies in the kitchen and smoked and caramelized over 2 days, topped with horseradish cream and wasabi powder, (3) a Pancake with Lamb Tartare(made from filet & hearts that are brined, then smoked0 with Angelica emulsion and pickled roses, dehydrated dung-smoked lamb and fresh watercress, (4)Caramelized Onion cake with pickled carrots and Juniper emulsion, which would have been quite dry save for the emulsion. The flavors were intense and the ingredients obviously insane, but it was a burst of flavors in each dish.

The only item not pictured on my FB photos is the Grilled Blue Mussel from Stykkisholmer (where we had visited 2 days prior on our cruise) with a black garlic puree, blue mussel emulsion, lovage and sea sandwort. This was paired with a To Ol x Saltverk beer called "There goes the seawater pipe" which Will oved, but I opted for the 2020 Rose of Pinot Noir from Pfalzland in Germany. Jasmine, the sommelier and winemaker from Germany did keep our glasses refilled and she was a font of knowledge and a treat as was the entire staff. It seemed that every course was delivered by a different chef from the kitchen which was fun as well.

The bread was from the island of Oland and served with Spruce Butter!

The next pair of dishes were paired with a Riesling from Peter Jakob Kun 2020 Alte Reben in Rheingau which was nice and dry and worked great with the greens.

1)Green Fermented Tomatoes, 4-week Fermented Cabbage, fresh cabbage, Romaine and Tindur cheese were dressed in the most amazing Almond and buttermilk puree that had an awesome flavor and a crunch from some almonds(I intend to try and replicate this). The second dish was Barley Risotto in brown butter with fermented daikon(in cream and butter), Golden Beetroot(in nutmeg & lemon) and salt baked roots with sprouts on top.

Remember that all the photos are on FB!!

Fish was next and the first dish was Cured cod in chive oil (think ceviche, and how odd that they have great fish here in Iceland, but tartare is not so common!) with tomatoes two ways: Slow roasted overnight and marinated in Marigold pickling liquid all covered by a tomato consomme. This was a brilliant tartare that had us wanting more. It was paired with a Siur Alta Orange wine 2021 from Catalonia, Spain(Pinedes) made by Vins Nus. Jasmine said she loved it and wanted us to try it. I was okay with it for the fish, but alone it was a tad funky.

The second fish was a Cod Loin and Jelly with Mushroom Puree, fermented tomato water, pickled green currants, chervil and chervil foam. Again, cod is the star fish here in Iceland and this dish was truly an example of how heightened it can be.

Of course the pother star product of Iceland is lamb, and the next two dishes were examples of that paired with a Valli Unite rosato frizzante(sparkling rose) called "Il Rose & The Beast." we tried it and again, it was on the verge of funky, but was okay with the first Braised Lamb Shank with Salt-baked Rutabagas, burnt bay leaf powder and fresh lemon-thyme leaves. Like the previous night, this shank was a confit style and melted in your mouth. The second lamb dish was a grilled Loin aged 14 days with Compressed lamb lettuce, lamb consomme, black garlic and lovage with Icelandic seaweed. The flavor profiles of this dish were amazing, but again the loin was a tad chewy and in some places the sinew was hard to cut. It was in a bowl and we were both afraid the sauce or meat would fly across the table. I asked the staff if Icelanders like their lamb this way and they said it is very common. They prefer it rare and sinewy and the fatty tradition goes way back. I will stick to the confit versions!! This dish, to me, also demanded red wine and Jasmine immediately complied with a yummy Grenache-Syrah blend called "Fruit Jazz" from Sylvain Bock(an Alsatian winemaker) in Ardeche, France that we loved and asked for refills on--several times.

A  wonderfully refreshing palate cleanser of Rhubarb Sorbet came with wasabi oil and dehydrated wasabi leaf. I should also mention that each dish was a work of art in the presentation department--you need to check out the FB photos.

Desserts started with an homage to Icelandic nature with an Almond/Brown Butter  Rhubarb Cake with preserved rhubarb, chervil stems and pods, pickled roses and burnt cream. I was nuts about this dish and the smoky cream. The second plate was a simpler looking yet super tasty Chocolate & Coffee Roll Cake with Arctic Thyme and Lemon Cream.

Jasmine returned with several after dinner drink options(not included) and we tasted them all before ordering. Will opted for the smooth and herbal Helviti Iceland Vodka while I chose the Bjork Liqueur made from birch that was amazing. We will have to buy these both at duty-free on departure!

There were small treats afterwards in the form of a Chocolate Ganache tart with Pickled Rhubarb and roasted almonds as well as a crunchy taffy of Lemon-Thyme-Vinegar-Caramel-Herbal tea that was yummy, but I am sure did major damage to my teeth.

We were so glad we finally got to Dill and would return in a second as it was an amazing journey through the highest echelons of Icelandic cuisine.

KOPAR in Reykjavik, Iceland--cool cuisine (7-21-22)

 Off our Arctic Expedition cruise, we were eager for some Icelandic local food and chose Kopar located on the waterfront in downtown Reykjavik. It is a two story building with simple yet attractive decor and our server, who said to call him "John" as his name was so long, was very helpful and totally accommodated our needs to relax between courses and really enjoy our first night back on land.

We started with one of their specialty drinks called Euphoria and asked "John" to cut the Elderflower a tad so it was not too sweet. The drink was also made with Icelandic vodka, Blue Curacao and lime and was nice an tart and refreshing. 

Beautiful bread arrived, which was just a plain yet crusty edged white, but we had noticed the breads on the ship were never that great, so being here in Iceland where the bread is all freshly baked is a real treat, especially the black breads! The butter was purplish with dried violets and licorice salt, which when spread on the bread did not give a very strong licorice flavor, so I gobbled it down; Will asked for the plain purple dried violet butter.

Starters were Rock Crab Soup with Shrimp, Spinach & Bean Sprouts which Will said was delicious, but could have used some more chunks of seafood in it. My Langoustine Wantons used local lobster(they call it langoustine as they tend to be smaller than what we are used to) in a crispy fried wonton with cauliflower, pickled onion and a tangy chili mayo for dipping. While the starters were not that large, the mains were quite large.

We ordered a bottle of Muga Reserva 2018 Tempranillo blend from Rioja, Spain and while we realize Iceland is expensive, the alcohol import tax really makes a bottle of wine that runs $50-60 at a DC restaurant, over $80 here!! It was a great choice as we both ordered the local Grilled Rack of Lamb with Slow-cooked lamb shoulder served with Fondant Potato, Apricot-Thyme Demi-Glaze, charred Asparagus and Crispy fried lotus.

I guess the terms for part of the lamb are different here as the "rack" was not a chop, but a slice which was a tad fatty, though beautifully crispy on the top. The shoulder underneath was more like a confit as was superb and tasty. Fondant potato here was a 1/2 large potato just peeled and braised, not exciting but the sauces were so tasty as there was the glaze as well as a nice lamb jus. The asparagus and lotus were a nice touch. We had seen the dessert menu, but we were so stuffed we decided to split one and "John" suggested the Chocolate Trio which was a very nice trio of a gooey Dark Chocolate Fondant Tart, White Chocolate Ice Cream and a Milk Chocolate Mousse. We loved it all and headed back to our hotel after an exhausting day as we had toured 10-hours with a guide all day after disembarking at 730am and needed a good rest.

Tonight--Iceland's Michelin starred DILL!

The Galloping Major at Oddfellows on the Park (near Manchester Airport) starts sublimely and oddly overcooks (7-9-22)

 Our last night in the UK was at the very nice country house of ODDFELLOWS on the PARK in Cheadle, just 10 minutes from Manchester Airport as we had an am flight and wanted to be nearby. The hotel is charming and the rooms modern, comfortable and very neat and clean. 

We headed down to dinner in the Galloping Gourmet not expecting much, and started off with a superb white Terra de Asorei Albarino from Rias Baixas, Spain. The wines here are served in 125ml, 175ml and 250ml carafes which I love and we went for the large size so we could enjoy it before and with our starters. We both chose the King Tiger Prawns that was a superb dish with a huge piece of grilled sourdough bread topped with Smoky Aioli and 5 perfectly poached shrimp and bits of Chorizo that had a nice kick. We were thoroughly impressed, We had made friends with the bartender, Hendrick, earlier in the evening and he came over to help us choose a bottle of red wine and we ended up with a reasonably priced Glenelly 2015 Shiraz from Stellenbosch in South Africa that was nice and smoky and had great depth to pair with our mains as we both ordered the 8 ounce Blackened Spice Beef Burger which came with Blacksticks Blue Cheese(barely enough to even taste), Smoked Bacon, Gem Lettuce, Beef Tomato, a super sauce and Skin-on Fries.

A way overly-mayonnaised Cole Slaw was on the side. The burger was gorgeous, the fries crispy and divine and all could have been forgiven on the mayonnaise had both burgers not been cooked to medium. we specifically asked for medium rare, but it never got through to the kitchen!  We did not want them to recook the burgers, so we sulked, finished them and split a yummy Sea Salt Sticky Toffee Pudding with Vanilla Pod Ice Cream that was a slight recovery from the overcooked burgers. The setting is very nice and we enjoyed the hotel, but it's probably not a place I would go back to, unless I had another early flight out of Manchester.

--

CraftHouse in Leeds: cool setting, cool cuisine, and noise from the bar above!(7-8-22)

 Will & I had a change of plans at the last minute as his sister was a tad tuckered out, so we decided to dine at CraftHouse, a Michelin-starred spot just across the street from the hotel in the middle of downtown. We had no clue where the place was, but after a second figured out there was an elevator (lift) marked CraftHouse that took us 4 stories up to a beautiful rooftop dining destination. The front had an empty bar and a number of folks were sitting just outside the dining room on a large deck area overlooking the city.

We were the only ones in the dining room at first (for a 645pm reservation), but our attentive and handsome(is there something in the water?) server, Nathaniel, showed us the tasting menus and wine list. 

At this point the music was doing a rappy tad loud and we asked Nathaniel if it could be toned down which was no problem.

The menu is 55 pounds(US$65) which is great for a nice 6 course menu for sure, and the paired wines went for 45(US$54), but Nathaniel warned us the pours were measured and there were no refills....we went with two bottles of wine which ultimately gave us several glasses more than the tasting and totaled at less than $80!! A Pedegroso "Tabali" Viognier 2020 from Chile's Limari Valley was a great choice especially with the first two dishes:

-Whipped Smoked Cod's Roe with Yuzu Gel and Shiso(leaf) in a phyllo pastry shaped like a cigar. It was crunchy and fishy and the yuzu had a tad of sweet-tart.

We also liked the BELU (served in "ethical glass" bottles) fizzy water from the UK that was subtle but refreshing.

-Wye Valley (Wales) Asparagus came with Smoked Egg Yolk and Parmesan French toast. A buttermilk dressing was light and crispy capers gave the delicious dish a salty kick.

At this point, we noticed there was conflicting music and it sounded like one source was the thump, thump from the bar fighting the music in the dining room. We asked what was going on as only 4 inside tables were occupied(in total, there were no more than 10 diners!! on a Friday night) and Nathaniel said it was coming from a bar on the roof upstairs (that was apparently jammed). He moved us to the other side of the dining room and my head finally calmed down.

Our second wine was the one actually paired in the tasting with the meat course:

-2016 Blaufrankisch(called Kekfrankos in Hungarian) from Blues Monopole in Kovacs Nimrod in Hungary that had a nose of sweet charcoal vs. burnt blackberry, but a taste that was smooth, medium bodied, and fine with our fish and meat courses that followed:

-Pan Fried Skrei (Norwegian) Cod Loin was beautifully browned and had an amazing crunchy crust and looked like a giant seared scallop(check out all the fotos as always on FB). It came with Roasted Cauliflower gnocchi that were divine as well as a Caramelized Cauliflower Puree, Swiss Chard, Ver jus Grapes and Almond Foam.  This was a winner of a fish dish!

-Hereford Fillet of Beef was tinged with sea salt and came just shy of medium rare, exactly as requested. The Crispy Potato Terrine (Pommes Anna) were super and there was a Confit Roscoff (never heard of that) Onion, Watercress Puree and an accompanying piece of Pastrami Short Rib that was wildly tangy, sour and unique from its brine.

Pickled Mustardseed and a Caramelized Onion Glaze finish off the dish to perfection.

The first dessert was a pre-dessert of Peach Melba Tart, and adorable miniature with Peach Custard, Frozen Raspberry and a Blood Peach Crust. Super refreshing and a big wow, but was followed by the awesome Salted Caramel Tart with Cornflake Ice Cream and Drunken Raisins with a spiced rum. 

This was an amazing meal for an amazing price created by Chef Simon Jewitt, and we will return for sure, but need to sit near the quiet side of the room!!

The IVY in Leeds is always luscious (7-7-22)

 Last year we started a tradition of taking  the family to the IVY in Leeds and we love it. The place is beautiful and the service and food are excellent. We even had the same server as last year, Rogene., who remembered us the second we arrived!

Drinks here are fund and I ordered the Bloodflowers Margarita which has a blood flower in it and is made with Olmeca Altos Plata Tequila, St. Germain Elderflower, blood orange and lime. I was surprised when it came with a sugared rim, but Rogene fixed that real fast. The Mango Coladas were a hit as were an Aperol Spritz and Chocolate Espresso Martini.

Our white wine was a Vermentino 2020 Funtana Liras from Sardinia and we had the same red as last year(different vintage) 2020 Douro Tinto from Quinttado Vallado in Portugal as we loved it so much.

The Ivy makes an awesome Steak Tartare, a beautiful Prawn Cocktail and a wonderful Crispy Duck Salad with 5 spice dressing, toasted cashews, watermelon, bean sprouts and more. Starters always win here.

The Korean Glazed Chicken came with pickled mooli, sesame avocade and jalapeno sauce as well as citrus mayo. The Shepherd's Pie is a beautiful creation of lamb & beef with red wine sauce and cheddar mash on top, while the Chicken Milanese is a brioche-crumbed breast with a fried egg on top and a truffle cream sauce that was divine, even if the chicken was a tad dry. The steak was a 21-day Himalayan salt-aged sirloin and it was fatty and gristly and got sent back -- we were not charged. Again, great service!

Creme Brulee here is excellent with Almond & Blueberry Panna Cotta in a Limoncello Sauce also making a nice impression. The Pedro Ximinez Bodega Alvear "Solera 1927" is a nice dessert wine if you want one--and we do.

We were super happy, save for the steak, and that was rectifying with no issue.

The Ivy will se us back again next year for sure, and there was a real cute waiter who was flirting with us as well, we returned the flirt--always appreciate that.

getting judgemental about JUDGES at Kirklevington (near Yarm, North Yorkshire)-7-6-22

 We have been having wonderful meals here for years at Judges where we stay near Middlesborough visiting family and friends, but last night was simply lackluster. The service was excellent as always and so were the wines. We started with a Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2020 white from Pontemagno and then moved to a Rupe Secca Nero d'Avola red from Sicily. 

We all started with the Pan seared Scallops with Parma Ham Croute, white wine sauce and micro herbs which was nice and simple. I wanted to keep things light and chose a second starter of Smoked Duck with beetroot puree, herb croute, orange and endive. The duck was quite dry and needed more beetroot puree to save that and the endive was switched out for frisee, which I am none to fond of. Will did worse with the Braised Featherblade, a braised cut of meat (not sure what, but it tasted "used") that was so overcooked it, too, was quite dry and needed more of the beef jus. Dauphinoise potatoes, seasonal vegetables and wild mushroom fricasee were there but in miniature. The Crispy Pork Belly was the only one that passed muster with creamed potatoes, broccoli, celeriac, apple puree and cider jus.

The dessert of Coconut and Lime Panna Cotta with coconut dacquoise was very refreshing, but the plating was nowhere near what we have seen over the many years of dining here. The small plate of mignardises that came with the coffee(at a cost, but they used to be complimentary) were also lackluster.

The cheese tray was delicious with Yorkshire Blue, Maldon Ruddy cheddar and Durham Camembert, but the portions were quite miniscule. 

Praying this was a glitch and that when we return things will improve.

--

The Bay Horse in Hurworth, Durham is brilliant (7-5-22)

 We found our new favorite restaurant last night about 30 minutes from our hotel in Hurworth (Darlington, Durham County) where we joined Will's cousins for an amazing evening what is called pub, but this one is a total fine dining experience.

We arrived and sat in the entry bar which is adorable and I perused the wonderful and large wine list and immediately hit upon a Musita Regie Terre Zibibbo 2020 from Sicily that had citrus, spiciness and was bone dry. Our server Antonio brought the wine and we headed to a small room upstairs which was cozy and delightful. Another party came in, but left complaining of the echo, we loved the room.

Warm breads arrived in the form of a slightly dry tomato-basil brioche and a tasty Hazelnut-Raisin brown muffin. The starters were really magnificently plated (as was everything)  and all were beyond excellent:

-Seared Mackerel, King Prawn mousse wrapped in potato, Grannie Smith's apple gel, English mustard cream and candied beetroot got raves while the

-Summer Butternut Squash Risotto had roasted Merguez sausage, basil pesto and caramelized baby onions

-three of us chose the Whitby white Crab which came with a brown crab parfait(an interesting pate like block that was intensely fishy and tasty), English asparagus, cured egg yolk, plum ketchup, parsley mayonnaise, North Atlantic Octopus and seaweed crisp. Each bite had a different flavor, texture and feeling making this dish a real winner.

We moved onto a 2018 Celeste Crianza from Familia Torres in Ribera del Duero that was nice with all our varied mains as well.

The Slow Cooked Sticky Beef is a cheek cooked for 12 hours and served with Salt beef Croquette, Smoked Bacon Macaroni, Roasted Leek hearts, Leek Puree, Baby Leeks, White Onion ketchup and caramelised white onions and was  hit (well, everything was!).

Pressed Salted Belly Pork had only a tad of fat and came with Mango ketchup, Tenderstem Broccoli, Broccoli Puree, Toasted Almonds, Pomme Dauphine and braised Toulouse sausage. The only complaint was that the skin could have been crispier.

New season loin of Lamb came with Salted Lamb Belly, Fricasee of Broad Beans, Pan fried Polenta, roast Heritage Cherry Tomatoes, Broad Bean relish, Feta, Balsamic Aioli and Madeira Jus.

You may have noticed these dishes are quite elaborate and while magnificently plated and truly tasty, it was hard to decide where to start and finish!

The Coriander & garlic marinated Chicken breast, , roasted chorizo, sweet potato puree, chilli yoghurt, cous cous, charred pak choi, curried apple dressing and curried granola was another surprisingly exciting dish making a gem out of chicken.

My Ballotine of Rabbit Loin, confit Rabbit boudin, truffle aioli, English Garden Peas, pea foam, Doreen's Black Pudding, mushroom ketchup and sauteed Trumpet Mushrooms was one of the best rabbit preparations EVER!!

We were full but Will had to have his traditional Sticky Toffee Pudding which was gloriously prepared here with Grannie Smith Apple Sorbet, Set Yoghurt, Compressed Apple, Apple Puree and Oat Crumble. Even more divine was the Caramelised Rice Pudding which came with a crunchy creme-brulee like topping, Raspberry Ripple & Toasted Almond Ice Cream, Chambord-soaked Frangipane and Raspberry Jelly.

Kudos to our server Antonio, a truly handsome guy to boot, who ran up and down the stairs all night and kept us all super happy. We later found out that the Bay Horse is owned by the same folks who own The Muse in Yarm where we loved our meal the night before. Obviously, they are doing something (well, many things) right!

The Muse in Yarm(North Yorkshire)makes us very happy, again (7-4-22)

 Each time we return to Will's neighborhood, we always look for new and exciting dining spots and several years back we discovered The Muse just minutes from our hotel and it always is a winner. This year we had the same server as last year and Emily remembered us, knew we liked to take a break between courses, and seemed to anticipate our every need. 

One of the signature starters here is the yummy Seafood Pancake with salmon, cod and prawn in a rich thermidor sauce. Two of us had that, one went for the Smoked Salmon Classic with Lemon-dill creme fraiche, bread crisps and a rocket-cornichon salad, while I chose the superb Pea & Tarragon Soup with small bits of potato, broad beans, pea fricasee, peas, pea tendrils and chive oil. Our Xavier Roger 2021 Marsanne-Viognier was the same wine we adored last year.

Our second wine was a Borgo deli Trulli 2020 Primitivo from Puglia that was also a fine find and paired with our very varied main courses. They arrived a tad too fast and Emily apologized profusely saying the kitchen did not heed her request. 

The mains were indeed as varied as possible with a Mediterranean Vegetable Risotto that can be a starter or main, Pan Fried Stone Bass with Olive Tapenade, Tomato Pesto(left off per the guests' request), Roasted Fennel & Olive Salad and sauteed New Potatoes. The Jerk Marinated Cod had a nice spice to it and came with Creamed roasted Sweet Corn, Confit Potatoes, Charred Spring Onion & tender stem Broccoli. My Garlic & Rosemary Char-grilled Chicken came with a tasty Bearnaise Sauce, Pomme Frites(Bearnaise good for them too) and a large tasty Rocket, Shallot & Parmesan Salad. It was nice, but a tad on the simple side and could have used a bit more spice.

Desserts here are yummy, but we decided to split two cheese plates and some chocolate truffles. The cheeses were a wonderful Yorkshire Blue(as it always is), a none too ripe Brie de Meaux(that was not runny at all) and a fabulous Wookey Hall Cheddar. There were some nice dessert wines to choose like a very sweet Red Muscadel from South Africa and a Muscat de Frontignan Chateau Peyrade from France.

We left promising Emily to return next year!

Rockville's EL MERCAT BAR de TAPAS is terrific (5-27-22)

 We headed up to Rockville Town Center a couple weeks ago with some friends for a fabulous tapas meal at a small, but wonderful place called EL MERCAT Bar de TAPAS.

The brick walls are exposed and the cement floors simple and it makes for a tad too much noise, but it was never impossible to hear. There is a small bar at the rear with the open kitchen behind that.

Service is friendly and Alicia was very helpful and seemed to manage considering she was handling almost all the tables! we tried the white sangria which was nice but the special Sangria of the day with Vodka, Mango & Passion Fruit was fabulous; you have to ask what the special is each day as it changes.

Pimentos de Padron were perfectly blistered peppers and the Bunuelos de Bacalao were hot and crispy (let them cool a tad, before you bite in, and for heaven's sake, do not pop the whole thing in your mouth like I did!!) and come with a yummy citrus aioli. Pan Con Tamate in it's plain state was plain, but we added yummy anchovies for a bite, and the Patatas Bravas with Garlic Aioli disappeared fast. Perhaps the best tapas is the veggie option of Zanahorias Rostizadas, simply roasted carrots with Marcona Almonds and a whipped goat cheese that were seasoned to perfection.

Montadito de Carne is a nice seared steak sandwich with olive chimichurri and the Albondigas here are meatballs made of ground lamb in a yummy sauce with Manchego cheese. Pulpo was nice as well and the octopus comes with the traditional roasted potatoes.

We ordered a bottle of red, Vina Otano Crianza 2018 that was 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano 5% Mazuelo and drank fine with everything or anything.

The Brussels Sprouts come with Lardons(large chunks of bacon, which we got on the side) and the Chorizo Chicken Paella is also very nice, if a tad creamy, although a lot of the rice was cooked so it stuck to the cast iron pan. I loved the crispy sections, but it was hard to pry it loose from the pan!

Save room for dessert and while you might think Crema Catalana is nice, go for the Churros that are cooked perfectly and splurge to have them stuffed with Dulce de Leche; you will be in heaven! Great place, great fun and a very casual local feel.

ROBERTO DONNA's is always a revelation (Vienna, VA)(5-24-22)

 I have never been a fan of driving 20-30 minutes to go out for dinner, but all that has changed now since Roberto Donna opened up in Vienna, VA back in February. Our second visit was last night, and the experience was sheer perfection. The four of us sat down and were offered a glass of Prosecco while we perused the menu and wine list and caught up with our friends. The large breadsticks (grissini) as still peppery and crunchy as the bread is simple, yet super. We kept telling our server, Moises, that we had not had time to look at the menu and Chef Roberto came over to make sure everything was okay! We asked him some questions and ordered heading right for the new Vitello Tonnato starter which was heavenly, nice and salty loaded with capers and a simple fresh greens salad on the side. Our wine was the Manincor "La Manina" 2019 a blend of Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc & Chardonnay from Alto Adige that was ideal with the veal and also a nice pairing for the Fried Zucchini Blossoms with Ricotta, Parmesan, Mint, pea Pesto and a small salad as well. I love that these small salads are added to the starter; a real nice touch.

We moved on to the same red wine(younger vintage) we had last time as the sommelier Dmitri said it's still the best deal on the menu and would pair with the very varied dishes we all had. The Rossijbleo 2020 Nero d'Avola from Gulfi in Sicily is a great wine with some nice legs and worked with pasta with squid, crab, veal and steak!

The Bistecca all Marcella Hazzan is a N.Y. Strib steak (actually two) seared by the chef tableside in Marsala wine and served with a Red Wine Tomato Sauce. Broccoli rabe and other veggies are added to make the plate big enough for two!(check out the FB fotos).

Veal Tenderloin is indeed the most tender veal around with Romanesco Sauce, Potatoes and a Wild Mushroom Sauce. Will & I both had the glorious Squid Ink Fettuccine with Fried Softshell Crab, Tomato Sauce & Broccoli Rabe. Now that softshells are here to stay through the summer, this dish has to stay as well!

While we were all quite stuffed, dessert was irresistible and we ordered three. The Strawberry Rhubarb Dome was composed of Strawberry Compote, Rhubarb Marmalade,  a White Chocolate Dome with Cinnamon Crumble. Since my birthday was last week, it came with a giant sparkler which was removed so they could pour the warm Strawberry Sauce over it tableside and the dome melted!! I LOVE this dessert.

Espresso Panna Cotta comes with Sicilian Pistachio Cake, Almonds and Coffee Nougatine, while the Chocolate Mousse is made from 70% Cordillera Single Origin chocolate with Diplomat Cream & Fleur de Sel Caramel Sauce; what could be bad?

A little shot of Limoncello was perfect for digestion and we knew we would be back sooner than two or three months the next time!

Chicago's SEPIA is SUPER!! and Restaurant Week ROCKS(4-7-22)

 My last night in Chicago was at SEPIA several blocks from the opera house and the Loop and a great dining destination with a Michelin star that shines. Restaurant Week in Chicago lasts several weeks and there was a $55 four course menu (wine pairings for an additional $45) that will really impress anyone. DEAL! 

I arrived early after the opera at about 515Pm and was escorted into a bveuatiful room with exposed brick and a huge antique service elevator on one wall with enclosed verticals of wines on the other wall and four huge Murano crystal chandeliers surrounded by smoky gauzy cylinders that were odd, but novel. 

The menu lists Andrew Zimmerman as Executive Chef, but I was told by the manager, Christopher, that the kitchen is run by Chef Kyle Cottle who used to cook at the now defunct Blackbird (just blocks away) that we always loved. I told my beyond awesome server, Tangie, who had worked there for 15 years, that I was in no rush and wanted to relax on this rainy chilly evening. A loaf of bread arrived warm with cultured butter (I am so glad it was cultured after just seeing the opera!) and my first wine arrived a Hirsch Gruner Veltliner Hirschvergnugen from Kamptal in Austria that had crisp apple and pepper notes. It was paired with my first course of Beef Tartare au Poivre (FB photos) which came with caramelized onion, the most amazing beef fat toast and dehydrated horseradish; a dream dish for sure.

My second course was the Charcoal Grilled Octopus with Pomegranate, Parsnip puree, Chili Crip and Cabbage which has to be one of the most amazing octopus dishes ever. 

The wine pairing was a smooth 2019 Pegaso "Zeta" Garnacha from the Sierra de Gredos in Spain. I saw there was a Rose of Cab Franc on the menu and Tangie immediately brought over a taste of the Couly-Dutheil Chinon Rose 2020 from the Loire that was super fruity yet very dry as well.

I was surprised when Christopher returned to announce there would be some extra courses! First came the Roasted Scallop Motoyaki(smoked egg) with Pickled Ramps, Espelette & Parmesan Crust which was extremely rich and decadent. The Vouvray from Vigneau-Chevreau Close de Rougemont in the Loire was an amazing pairing as it was almost a demi-sec to cut the dish's intensity. While I devoured the yummy dish and its ramps, I noticed the lady at the next table order a Dirty Ramp Martini and was so upset I had not started my meal with this amazing idea...perhaps I will mix some up with the ramps I got this week at the Farmer's Market!

My main course was Glazed Duck Breast with buckwheat crepe filled with fried rice and black garlic hoisin sauce that came with pickled carrots and radish and was simply beautiful (as was everything). The duck skin was crispy and salted to perfection as I had requested medium rare and it was ideal. The wine was a Varner Los Alamos Santa Barabara Pinot Noir with an earthy nose and lots of terroir. 

My dessert choice was the Mandarin Creamsicle with Malted Vanilla Sponge Crumble, Mandarin Sherbet and Winter Cirtus, but the team insisted on sending out the Pink Peppercorn Pavlova with Coconut-Passionfruit Sorbet, Candied Ginger, Hibiscus and Swett & Salted Almonds. I am not a meringue fan, but the dish was superb, but I barely had more than a couple of bites. The Creamsicle was divine and I managed to finish several bites of that paired with the Borgo Maraghiano Moscato DOCG La Caliera that Christopher sent out to pair. Pastry Chef Erin Kobler is a magician and the entire team at Sepia are beyond brilliant. I will definitely head back when I am anywhere near the Lyric Opera in Chicago!

Chicago's Elizabeth is elegant food in a simple setting that is supreme (4-6-22)

 We all met a wonderful woman named Meena on our recent cruise to South America and I was thrilled when she agreed to join me in Chicago for dinner earlier this month. I knew she was vegetarian and chose Elizabeth as they have a veggie tasting menu(or so we thought). During the reservation process I noticed their menu was changing regularly with some fish and meat, so I was sure to advise them that Meen ate no meat or fish (you know where this is going).

I arrived a tad late as Chicago rush hour was a disaster, but everyone seemed very cool as the small restaurant with only 8 tables had only one seating and they all just were so chill. Our server Jeni brought us adorable little menus and we noticed there were some fish and meat courses, so I reminded them that Meena was vegetarian. Rather than do wine pairings, I chose a bottle of Negroamaro Rosato from Martha Stoumen 2017in Mendocino, California which was a yummy rose and paired well with the first dishes superbly. Allie, the sommelieuse, was very helpful and explained that they have a large selection of women winemakers. Elizabeth used to be owned and run by women and while there are still plenty on the team, in 2020 it was sold to Tim Lacey who now has Chef Ian Jones helming the kitchen. They all were tableside to present, announce and serve dishes; it's a warm hands-on place that makes you fell at home. Snacks #1 starts off with Fried Lion's Mane Mushroom with White Truffle Aioli and a Tartine of Artichoke with Meyer Lemon, Microgreens, Tahini, Tonburi & Broccoli. Check out the FB photos as each presentation is indeed simply gorgeous. Next came a raw Spot Prawn with Trout Roe, Dashi, Shiso Oil, Sea Beans & Guanciale(pork cheek) and I noticed the dish was given to us both. I mentioned that Meena was a vegetarian and they must have thought I was looney! Meena said it was okay, but I insisted as I saw more fish and meat later in the menu. They took both plates away and returned minutes later with my same dish (it was a room temperature dish) and one for Meena using hearts of palm.

Celeriac Al Pastor is a play on the Taco, but here Celery root is used with fermented pineapple salsa, fermented yuba & coriander in a tofu skin "taco." It was fun to eat, a tad messy, but a crunchy treat.

Next came the White Asparagus with Carolina Gold & Wild Rice, Raw Quail Egg, Hazelnut,  Idiazabel Cheese, White Asparagus Puree, Pickled asparagus and a truffle Gougere on the side. I loved my white asparagus the night before, but this dish was dreamy beyond amazing. 

Tteok-Bokki is a beef heart ragu with fried rice-cake, salsa rossa and was served with a Semolina focaccia in a tiny cast iron pan on the side. As if this was not enough the focaccia came with black butter which I called a little ball of heaven and made with whipped butter and a shell of charcoal and white chocolate!! Oh and dehydrated olives!

We needed to move on to red wine and Allie suggested a 2020 "Henry's Seven" Barossa from South Australia's Henschke Vineyard which we adored despite its youth. The wine had an earthy shitake mushroom aroma and again was a perfect pairing with the rest of our dishes.

Cauliflower was next with Green Pistachio Romesco, Black Truffle Aioli and Plum Aioli with fermented cauliflower relish and black truffle! you would never guess the chef likes truffles and so did we!! Sweet Breads were divine served with Morel Mushrooms stuffed with Foie Gras and a divine Madeira Jus with Foie Gras as well as Black Fig Jam. For Meena, the kitchen was really turning out amazing veggie options and instead of sweetbreads came up with turnips!

The next course was a Fried Quail Lollipop with Green Onion Dipping Sauce and for Meena a Mushroom Purse. There was also Quail breast with Grilled Spring Onion Herb Butter and Grilled Sourdough bread....my carb levels must have been insane.

I saw the dessert on the menu and was thrilled when STROOPWAFFLE which was a flax taco filled with the kombu caramel, Japanese rice puffs, dried Kombu and Oxallis leaves(citrus) arrived. WHO KNEW?

Next was the SOURDOUGH ICE CREAM with A5 Caramel(made with Wagyu fat) that was insanely divine.

Refreshing Harry's Berrys come from California and were poached with Creme Baumaniere(pastry cream) and lime granita with a red-syrup and anise-foam vinegar(I could not taste the anise).

Snacks#2 arrived atop reindeer moss in the form of an Earl Gray-Kumquat Gummy with Oat Milk, Bon Bon with Nyangbo(Valhrhona) Chocolate, Caramel ganache, Milk Chocolate & Yuzu and a Meringue of Pomegranate and dehydrated fermented Blueberry!! 

As if this was not enough we left with Lapsang Souchong Earl Grey Teabags for later...
Once we got everything sorted out, Elizabeth was indeed an experience and a dream meal and such a cozy quiet setting that I would not hesitate to return again and again.

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Chicago's PORTO is about preserves and terrific tastings (4-5-22)

 Yes, I am way behind in postings and will apologize asking your patience.

My first night in Chicago earlier this month took me to Porto just west of mid-town where the unassuming entrance (as many Chicago spots in winter) had a huge, blanketed entry to keep the drafts out. inside the space opened up to high tin ceilings and a huge central "bar" that was a prep kitchen around which the single guests (like moi) sat chatting with the super kitchen team headed by Erwin from France. My Dijonnaise hostess seated me and introduced me to my server Eddie and ultimately the brilliant sommelier Charles arrived as well. I was very impressed by the service and totally inundated by the various menus and options, so chose the tasting menu for $120 and then ordered a creamy white 2020 Costers del Priorat "Blanc de Pissarres" made from Grenache Blanc, Macabeo and Pedro Ximenez for $60 that was superb with so many of my first rounds of dishes. They do have parings here, but I felt that I could do better choosing my own wines, and it was indeed a great idea.

The sparkling water was Vichy Catalan which is so popular in Spain, but a tad too salty for me.

I watched intently as dishes were prepped in front of me and my first plate "CONSERVAS & SEAWEED" arrived. Photos are available on Fb and you need to see them all to realize how intricate the plating was as well. This dish had (1)Pomme Paysan which was crispy and crunchy potato, (2) Turbot with Escabeche Mussel, Yuzu Oil, Pickled Combo Seaweed,  & (3)Seaweed foam that looked like a wave. The plate was actually a huge dried preserved turbo head and bones!

Oysters (BadAss(the company) from Chingon, Baja California) were next and came with (1)cold smoked Oyster with codium seaweed escabeche, white soy & cured grape, nori seaweed &  (2)Poached Oyster with cava emulsion and yuzu "caviar"

Uni Toast is worth the trip alone to Porto and is called Huevas de Erizo de Mar and since it is preserved Uni (from la Brujula Uni Conserva in Spain) less potent than the fresh version. Here it came with smoked Cauliflower, Sao Jorge Cheese Puree(very funky for sure), Nori Seaweed & Lemon Gel atop a toasted brioche and was served atop a small jar filled to the rim with tiny seashells. OMG!

I love rilettes and the RILETTES de TRUCHA were made with Smoked Wild Trout, Galician Sea Lettuce, Mayo, Creme Fraiche, Smoked Trout Roe, Codium Seaweed on a Nori Tarlette. My response was "I could eat this all night," and it will forever be my favorite single snack if anyone else can manage to create it.

I saw Erwin making the magnificent Steak Tartare, so a plate arrived for me in between my regular courses and I am so grateful as it was truly awesome.

RAZOR CLAMS & WHITE ASPARAGUS (Navajas y Esparragos) was one of the reasons I chose this menu as I adore those huge white asaparagus from Europe at this time of the year, but these were a conserved version from Navarra, Spain served with also conserved La Brujula Razor Clams, codium seaweed,  "Guac", Oyster Espuma and Golden Kaluga Caviar . Super tasty but I was all set for the fresh ones.

COD(Bacalhau) was actually from Japan and grilled on Binchotan Charcoal with Butternut Squash, Wild Mushrooms, Smoked Cream  and a side bowl "Caldo Verde" with tripe, cod tongue, cod belly, potato, turnip and fried Beluga lentils. This dish was huge so I tended to taste each section to get a feel as I knew more was coming.

About this time I also switched to a red wine, but alas cannot seem to find my notes on it.

CUTTLEFISH(Mle del Mar) was next with Portuguese cuttlefish, Fermented Quid Ink, Smoked Seaweed Sofrito, Potato & Toasted Bomba Rice foam. I have never been a big cuttlesih fan since my first time having it was over 35 years ago in Hong Kong where it was like eating rubber. Of course, nowadays chefs cook it well and it is tender and delish as this was.

Blood Sausage "Morcilla" was a revelation with the Tuna & Squab(how is that for a combo) spiced Morcilla with Roasted Apple & Vermouth Puree, Crispy Squab Skin(yum), Tuna & Shio Koji Consomme (to cut the richness).

Y'all know dessert is not my thing but PLAYA was a treat created by pastry chef Shannah and was a small dish as well of Toasted Barley Foam, Wood-fired Sweet Potato Ice Cream, Wildflower Honey all assembled with Passionfruit, Nori Seaweed & Carrot Cake that looked like sea and sand. with Berries from La Brujula Navajas in brine!!

So they could tell I liked my wine and sent out an awesome 2003 Quinta de Portal Vintage port, and those of you who know, it was our son Sam's birth year and considered one of the greatest port vintages ever. we have a lot of 2003 but have held off; maybe it is ready now...or soon.

Indeed they insisted I stay and have some Pedro Ximiez Venerable Sherry V.O.R.S. 30 year aged followed by Amara Nonna...glad I was only Ubering back to the Waldorf Astoria! 

My journey through the Iberian Peninsula was complete and I had it all at this beautiful marbled bar counter with everyone spaced 4-6 feet apart and small tables scattered around. A quiet serene place, this is a wonderful treat for singles or anybody looking for something very different on your plate(s)!

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Arlington's GREEN PIG BISTRO proves its perfection yet again(3-28-22)

Last night we headed back to Clarendon for dinner with friends at The Green Pig Bistro and even while Chef Tracy O'Grady was off on Monday, the place ran everything seamlessly under the guidance of her amazing husband Chef Brian Wolken.

We were lucky to have the uber-server Carly as she was so excellent at lunch a week prior, but sad to hear that she will be leaving soon.

We are addicted to Tracy's Deviled Eggs, and they seemed even better last night with an extra sprinkling of bacon bits--irresistible! We shared another starter of Buffalo Pork Ribs with a kicky blue cheese dressing and buffalo sauce and shaved celery on top. The ribs come separated and cooked to perfection and you do have to ask for the excellent Grilled Ciabatta bread to mop it all up. This could be our new favorite dish here, but as the portion has 4-5 ribs, I suggest sharing.

The cocktail list here is fun and Will & I started with the Spicy Pome-rita of Lunazul Blanco Tequila, Serrano Pepper infused simple syrup, Pomegranate Juice, Fresh Lime Juice, sliced Serrano peppers and pomegranate seeds. YUMMY! Our guests loved their Torie Tornado od Blue Sapphire Gin, St. Germaine, Fresh Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup, Cucumber & Mint as well as the Smokin' Old Fashioned with Hickory Smoked Rittenhouse Rye, Brown Simple Sugar, Angostura Bitters, Orange Bitters and Orange Peel.

The wine list has grown to huge proportions in the last months, but we settled on a yummy Volpaia Chianti Classico 2019 of 100% Sangiovese that went super well with all the dishes and also warmed us on this coldest of March nights.

After we finished the bottle, we had a glass of Familia Montaña Rioja of Tempranilla 2018 from Crianza that is one of 9 reds, 9 whites, 3 roses and 2 sparklings served by the glass!

Mains here are huge and be prepared to share or get a take-away box which we all did!

Each day has a daily special and I tried the Monday Plat du Jour of Southern Fried Chicken with mac & Cheese, Biscuit & Mushroom Gravy. The chicken was as crispy as could be on the outside and juicy to a tee inside. You get 4 pieces--a whole 1/2 chicken!! The biscuits here are divine as well and the mac & cheese was gooey and crunchy on top with a gremolata in a small cast iron pan.

The Steak Frites is a 14-ounce T-bone with Garlic Wilted Spinach & Kale, Hand Cut Truffle Fries(another totally addictive dish), house made steak butter and bearnaise sauce taking this everyday dish to new heights. Two of us had the Crispy Gruyere Pork Schnitzel which was moist and perfectly cooked and served with Buttermilk Spaetzle, Scarlet Runner Beans, Butternut Squash, Savoy Cabbage, Savory and Smoked Pork Jus--this is a dish you will come back for again and again, especially on a bitter cold night like we had.

We took home the cookies as we always do, knowing that every meal at Green Pig is always a treat and superbly cooked, served and enjoyed.

DC's CONVIVIAL has celebratory cuisine (3-24-22)

 It has been a long covid-time since we last dined at CONVIVIAL, the super French bistro near the Convention Center where the ambiance and the food will truly transport you to France. Chef Cedric Maupillier's food took us all to a level beyond last night from each bite and sip start to finish.

The service was supreme as two gents filled our water glasses before we had even sat down and our server, Dino, gave us menus and asked if we had any questions. 

I should note that we were joined by Tina & Rod GIlfry, the latter starring here in DC in a world premiere opera at the Washington national Opera, but also known on YouTube for his bartending! Check out

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCc6OEgboB4Fsk12b22icAwQ

We settled in with a superb white Chateau de Marjolet 2020 Cotes du Rhônes Blanc "Petit Parcelle" made from Viognier & Roussanne, the former with an elegant creaminess, the latter giving off that wonderful terroir minerality. I can think of no other starter that matches this wine better than the Quenelles Nantua, light dumplings of crayfish in a divine Cognac-cream sauce with a hint of fresh dill and trout caviar. The sauce is reminiscent of a Lobster bisque and the tiny crayfish were like little crevettes dancing around the lake of bisque. The wonderful baguette that came to the table were sublime for mopping it all up with. Carpaccio de Thon Nicoise had thin slices of sushi-grade bluefin with a green bean-tomato, olive tartare, crispy potato strings, capers, basil and an anchovy aioli. Ouef en Meurette is a beautifully poached egg in red wine sauce with bacon lardon and mushroom brioche--perhaps the ideal "French" breakfast!

We switched to red wine with a nice Mourvedre-Grenache blend called La Bastide Blanche from Bandol in Provence 2018 which was smooth and silky and just right!

Main courses were as elegant as they come from my Pithiers de Pigeon Bourgeoise made from country squab with fig, truffle and puff pastry(be sure to check out the FB photos). The meat was tender, the pastry flaky and the sauce divine. Pot-au-Feu had an "ginger-beef consommé poured tableside over the paleron, short rib, shank of beef and a plate of oxtail bone marrow on the side. The dish was complemented with carrots, leeks, turnip and celery. No less impressive was the huge Boeuf Bourguignon made with red wine using braised beef, paleron, mushrooms, bacon and pearl onions. Finally, Steak Frites, the quintessential bistro dish served here with green beans as well as fries and looking divine! 

We were all too full for dessert, but left knowing that there is always a small corner of France right here in DC at Convivial whenever the bistro urge arises!

DC's BELGA CAFE deserves bravos for Chef Bart's brilliance(3-17-21)

 

We have ventured out for a couple of fundraising dinners at various restaurants, but this was my first wine dinner in over two years. Chef/Owner Bart Vandaele cooked up a storm last night for about 20 or so guests at a meal entitled "Big Bold American" and featured some superb wines to boot.

Belga Cafe on Capitol Hill is always a treat, and I shall sorely miss Chef Bart's B TWO that closed in the Dupont Circle area, but with traffic not being so bad, and parking almost a cinch; the 22 minute ride over and 15 minute ride back was more than worth it.

We were all seated at individual tables in the rear next to the open kitchen where we could observe the prep for each dish and ask questions as well. The assemblage of the first plate (indeed all the courses) was done with finesse and flair and a technicality that one does not get to see too often. 

TARTARE of MARINATED SALMON and Red beets, Fennel, Salmon Eggs, Frisee and Orange Crumble was a revelation (pictures on FB) from the spectacular Chesapeake Smoke House Salmon in DC(which I swore was from Scotland, NOT!) to the "orange crumble" which it turns out is orange, butter, spices and breadcrumbs sauteed to perfection. Stag's Leap Viognier 2019 from Napa was the perfect pairing, and I have to say could be a major Viognier winner in my future book.

TERRINE of FOIE GRAS MOUSSE and DUCK BREAST, with Porto Gelee and Roasted Artichoke was simply silky and divine. Endive was added with a light vinaigrette and more artichokes in the leaf as well as teeny crispy duck fat cubes (at least I think that's what they were) for flavor. A slice of grilled brioche could not have been better! The wine was a Robert Mondavi "Reserve Carneros" 2013 Chardonnay from Napa that at first was like a ton of oak in my mouth, but was amazing with the terrine and even started to gain acidity when the two were paired.

Stew of RABBIT LEG came with Red Cabbage Puree, Horsin Sauce, Purple Potatoes, Pickled Carrots, Red Vein Sorrel and had a broth poured over tableside. The leg and thigh were beautifully dotted with coarse mustard and seeds. I love rabbit and this dish was a winter winner! Thank goodness it was wet and chilly last night! The wine was a superb Resonance Pinot Noir 2018 from Oregon's Willamette Valley, and I never say no to an Oregon Pinot!

BRAISED OXTAIL came covered with BUTTERMILK POTATO MOUSSE, Black Truffle, Salsify and topped with Parsnip Crisps. Chef called it Shepherd's Pie and I called it Shepherd's Pie on crack! A huge Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 from Alexander valley was a great treat. I am not a Cab fan, but this 9 year old wine was drinking lusciously.

GORGONZOLA BLUE CHEESE arrived with PEPERKOEK(gingerbread wafers), Red Wine (Gluwein) POACHED PEARS, a Mushroom jam with onion & apricot and Port Gelee. Cheese courses can be amazing, cheese courses can be a bore, but the love that went into creating this dish was simply perfection. The Emmolo 2017 Merlot from Napa was a nice pairing.

When you name your dessert CHESTNUT, CHESTNUT, CHESTNUT, BEER, TIRAMISU, MASCARPONE, ESPRESSO CACAO the diner will surely wonder what is going to arrive. The bowl of tiramisu with layers of chestnut and what seemed like everything but the kitchen sink was superb. While Chef insisted there was beer as well, I could not taste it and was thankful as I am not a beer fan. The paired wine was a 2005 Eiswein from St. Gisbert's in Rheinhessen, Germany that was pulled from the cellar and exhibited to most intense dark bronze amber hue. The wine was drinking excellently and as a dessert wine fan, I truly appreciated this special treat.

Belga Cafe is a great place to dine and a wonderful casual bistro setting that works for anyone looking for almost any excellent dining experience. I envied the couple next to me who live around the corner and can pop in anytime!

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LA's LE COMPTOIR in Hollywood will wow you(and only 9 others! for a veggie feast.

 When I did my search of vegetarian tasting menus in LA, Le COMPTOIR kept coming up at the top, so I tried to book online and was told that March reservations would open in February. Nothing happened, so I emailed the place and got a kind response from someone named Gary who turned out to be the owner and chef Gary Menes! He said not to worry and gave me a head's up the day before the reservations opened so Samuel and I nailed 2 of the 10 total seats in this totally unprecocious and off-the-beaten track veggie spot for foodies.

We were told to arrive at 7pm(only one reservation time) and take a seat in the lobby of the Hotel Normandie. They served complimentary wine for 30 minutes, but I did not want to drink too much, so I declined. Someone came out to advise we were waiting for one last couple.  At 750pm (we were starving as we had not eaten since our avocado toast at the Waldorf-Astoria at 9am for breakfast!) we were finally escorted down a dingy hallway and through a teeny door into a miniscule space that held a storefront window with a small kitchen and a counter for 10 folks to sit at.

Chef Gary Menes began a spiel that lasted almost 25 minutes explaining his background and how the place started as a pop-up and ultimately moved to this space 11 years before. If you walked by the hotel on the main drag, you probably would not even notice this narrow space. He worked with only two assistants, Joshua and Jonathan, who plated everything as a team and served it to the 10 of us and also washed the dishes, poured wine and drinks and more, never missing a step.

There were ten, not too comfy, metal stools at a huge long wooden and metal counter or bar and the men worked from the "kitchen" behind. I use quotes as they have burners, but no gas, a small oven, a dishwasher and not much more. The decor is basic and the napkin was brown paper. The silverware was simple and place on a cork for each course in front of us. We were given a menu with the eight courses plus amuse as well as some "supplement" options. While the basic menu is totally vegetarian, there were lobster and pork belly additions as well as a pricy pasta with black truffles from Italy. I did the cheese add-on instead of dessert ($25). The wines are served in small portions which are enough for sure as each course is only several bites, although the $125 price for 7 glasses (each really only 1/3 of a normal glass pour) was a tad steep. I did a price check afterwards and all 7 bottles would come to about $250-280 or so with tax), but please note, each person got about 3 total glasses!

We settled in for the "ride" and I have to say, Sam & I had a truly wonderful experience.

The amuse was Tuscan kale chips that were deep fried and served with an aioli. It was fun, but the chips did break up easily as they were dipped. 

The first course(all fotos are on FB) was Cauliflower & Green garlic Velouté with Cashew Greek Yogurt and Bread crumbs. There was a crunch from Garlic chips and thyme for spice. It was served with a yummy 2020 Pouilly Fume Vieilles Vignes from Regis Monet that had a smoky citrus nose and a honeydew melon taste.

We watched the team prepare the second course for what seemed like forever. It was called simply "Vegetable and Fruit Plate " but had 35 ingredients which could be all eaten each at one time. Each vegetable was cooked separately and with its own flavorings and layered on in a very specific manner: Bok Choy, Squash, Eggplant, Carrot, Celery, Zucchini, Onion, Beets, Cauliflower(gold, purple, white and Romesco), Watermelon Radish, Purple & Green Brussels Sprouts, Kalamnasi Lime and so much more topped with Ice Plant(don't ask). A 2016 Chardonnay from Arbois in Jura was a creamy treat with big legs. This could very well be the most complex, inventive and yet oh so simple vegetarian dish ever invented.

Schaner Farm Egg en Cocotte was cooked then layered with cheese in a cast iron pan and topped with baby Lettuce from our garden, brown butter, lemon and herbs and served with grilled sourdough bread (made from a 27 year old sourdough starter). The gooey treat was yummy, if a bit messy with the lettuce on top, but placed on the bread was a real treat. The wine was a 2020 Bordeaux Graves from Chateau Grayville-Lacoste.

A 2019 Savary Chablis Premier Cru came next(one of my fave wines) and was served with Sprouting Broccoli, Chili Flakes, Sherry Vinegar and Sauce Romesco which had a nice kick. Some of the broccoli had matured a tad and my sprout was a tad woody!

The fifth course was called "Cassoulet" Spigarello(googled later as "an Italian heirloom variety of broccoli") with X-mas Lima beans, apple and Sauce Cuisson(I am sure it is a reduced veggie stock here). I loved the beans and flavors in this, but was beginning to fill up big time. The wine was a yummy Pian del Ciampolo 2019 Sangiovese.

The next course was a Winter Squash Roti, Landrace Rye We=heat Berries, Champignons de Paris(which were explained as sliced thin on a mandolin, not necessarily from Paris!), Pistachio-Parsley Vierge and Savory Broth. Another brilliant dish, but I was starting to have 2 bites and stop halfway. The 2019 Les Barrigards Bourgogne (Pinot Noir) was a treat which I saved for my cheese as well.

The last savory course was called "Petit Pois a la Francaise" and was Sugar Snaps, Shallots, Potato, Romaine and Jus d'Onion. I adored the 2019 Faury Saint Joseph Vieilles Vignes which also went great with my cheeses that came next and last:

-Triple Creme Brillat Savarin from France was gooey, creamy and alive--just the way I adore it.

-Fiscalini Cheddar is aged 18-30 months

-Humboldt Fog from California is a cheese I know well, but never knew the ash down the middle separated goat cheese that was made in the am and that of the pm in the same cheese wheel!

The fabulous 27-year old starter sourdough was grilled and there were roasted grapes as well as Jalapeno-Blackberry Preserve. A divine cheese course indeed.

Samuel had the regular dessert of Donut Hole made with the same sourdough starter served with Gaviota Strawberry Preserve, Creme Chantilly and Chocolate Sauce. You could choose what to dip the donut in and go from there; Sam loved it.

We were full and passed on the $18 a cup coffee!

This is a meal, an experience, and a show all in one and if you are vegetarian, I would strongly suggest it, even if you are not, it is a great dining experience.