When I did my search of vegetarian tasting menus in LA, Le COMPTOIR kept coming up at the top, so I tried to book online and was told that March reservations would open in February. Nothing happened, so I emailed the place and got a kind response from someone named Gary who turned out to be the owner and chef Gary Menes! He said not to worry and gave me a head's up the day before the reservations opened so Samuel and I nailed 2 of the 10 total seats in this totally unprecocious and off-the-beaten track veggie spot for foodies.
We were told to arrive at 7pm(only one reservation time) and take a seat in the lobby of the Hotel Normandie. They served complimentary wine for 30 minutes, but I did not want to drink too much, so I declined. Someone came out to advise we were waiting for one last couple. At 750pm (we were starving as we had not eaten since our avocado toast at the Waldorf-Astoria at 9am for breakfast!) we were finally escorted down a dingy hallway and through a teeny door into a miniscule space that held a storefront window with a small kitchen and a counter for 10 folks to sit at.
Chef Gary Menes began a spiel that lasted almost 25 minutes explaining his background and how the place started as a pop-up and ultimately moved to this space 11 years before. If you walked by the hotel on the main drag, you probably would not even notice this narrow space. He worked with only two assistants, Joshua and Jonathan, who plated everything as a team and served it to the 10 of us and also washed the dishes, poured wine and drinks and more, never missing a step.
There were ten, not too comfy, metal stools at a huge long wooden and metal counter or bar and the men worked from the "kitchen" behind. I use quotes as they have burners, but no gas, a small oven, a dishwasher and not much more. The decor is basic and the napkin was brown paper. The silverware was simple and place on a cork for each course in front of us. We were given a menu with the eight courses plus amuse as well as some "supplement" options. While the basic menu is totally vegetarian, there were lobster and pork belly additions as well as a pricy pasta with black truffles from Italy. I did the cheese add-on instead of dessert ($25). The wines are served in small portions which are enough for sure as each course is only several bites, although the $125 price for 7 glasses (each really only 1/3 of a normal glass pour) was a tad steep. I did a price check afterwards and all 7 bottles would come to about $250-280 or so with tax), but please note, each person got about 3 total glasses!
We settled in for the "ride" and I have to say, Sam & I had a truly wonderful experience.
The amuse was Tuscan kale chips that were deep fried and served with an aioli. It was fun, but the chips did break up easily as they were dipped.
The first course(all fotos are on FB) was Cauliflower & Green garlic Velouté with Cashew Greek Yogurt and Bread crumbs. There was a crunch from Garlic chips and thyme for spice. It was served with a yummy 2020 Pouilly Fume Vieilles Vignes from Regis Monet that had a smoky citrus nose and a honeydew melon taste.
We watched the team prepare the second course for what seemed like forever. It was called simply "Vegetable and Fruit Plate " but had 35 ingredients which could be all eaten each at one time. Each vegetable was cooked separately and with its own flavorings and layered on in a very specific manner: Bok Choy, Squash, Eggplant, Carrot, Celery, Zucchini, Onion, Beets, Cauliflower(gold, purple, white and Romesco), Watermelon Radish, Purple & Green Brussels Sprouts, Kalamnasi Lime and so much more topped with Ice Plant(don't ask). A 2016 Chardonnay from Arbois in Jura was a creamy treat with big legs. This could very well be the most complex, inventive and yet oh so simple vegetarian dish ever invented.
Schaner Farm Egg en Cocotte was cooked then layered with cheese in a cast iron pan and topped with baby Lettuce from our garden, brown butter, lemon and herbs and served with grilled sourdough bread (made from a 27 year old sourdough starter). The gooey treat was yummy, if a bit messy with the lettuce on top, but placed on the bread was a real treat. The wine was a 2020 Bordeaux Graves from Chateau Grayville-Lacoste.
A 2019 Savary Chablis Premier Cru came next(one of my fave wines) and was served with Sprouting Broccoli, Chili Flakes, Sherry Vinegar and Sauce Romesco which had a nice kick. Some of the broccoli had matured a tad and my sprout was a tad woody!
The fifth course was called "Cassoulet" Spigarello(googled later as "an Italian heirloom variety of broccoli") with X-mas Lima beans, apple and Sauce Cuisson(I am sure it is a reduced veggie stock here). I loved the beans and flavors in this, but was beginning to fill up big time. The wine was a yummy Pian del Ciampolo 2019 Sangiovese.
The next course was a Winter Squash Roti, Landrace Rye We=heat Berries, Champignons de Paris(which were explained as sliced thin on a mandolin, not necessarily from Paris!), Pistachio-Parsley Vierge and Savory Broth. Another brilliant dish, but I was starting to have 2 bites and stop halfway. The 2019 Les Barrigards Bourgogne (Pinot Noir) was a treat which I saved for my cheese as well.
The last savory course was called "Petit Pois a la Francaise" and was Sugar Snaps, Shallots, Potato, Romaine and Jus d'Onion. I adored the 2019 Faury Saint Joseph Vieilles Vignes which also went great with my cheeses that came next and last:
-Triple Creme Brillat Savarin from France was gooey, creamy and alive--just the way I adore it.
-Fiscalini Cheddar is aged 18-30 months
-Humboldt Fog from California is a cheese I know well, but never knew the ash down the middle separated goat cheese that was made in the am and that of the pm in the same cheese wheel!
The fabulous 27-year old starter sourdough was grilled and there were roasted grapes as well as Jalapeno-Blackberry Preserve. A divine cheese course indeed.
Samuel had the regular dessert of Donut Hole made with the same sourdough starter served with Gaviota Strawberry Preserve, Creme Chantilly and Chocolate Sauce. You could choose what to dip the donut in and go from there; Sam loved it.
We were full and passed on the $18 a cup coffee!
This is a meal, an experience, and a show all in one and if you are vegetarian, I would strongly suggest it, even if you are not, it is a great dining experience.
