Friday, March 18, 2022

DC's BELGA CAFE deserves bravos for Chef Bart's brilliance(3-17-21)

 

We have ventured out for a couple of fundraising dinners at various restaurants, but this was my first wine dinner in over two years. Chef/Owner Bart Vandaele cooked up a storm last night for about 20 or so guests at a meal entitled "Big Bold American" and featured some superb wines to boot.
Belga Cafe on Capitol Hill is always a treat, and I shall sorely miss Chef Bart's B TWO that closed in the Dupont Circle area, but with traffic not being so bad, and parking almost a cinch; the 22 minute ride over and 15 minute ride back was more than worth it.
We were all seated at individual tables in the rear next to the open kitchen where we could observe the prep for each dish and ask questions as well. The assemblage of the first plate (indeed all the courses) was done with finesse and flair and a technicality that one does not get to see too often. 
TARTARE of MARINATED SALMON and Red beets, Fennel, Salmon Eggs, Frisee and Orange Crumble was a revelation (pictures on FB) from the spectacular Chesapeake Smoke House Salmon in DC(which I swore was from Scotland, NOT!) to the "orange crumble" which it turns out is orange, butter, spices and breadcrumbs sauteed to perfection. Stag's Leap Viognier 2019 from Napa was the perfect pairing, and I have to say could be a major Viognier winner in my future book.
TERRINE of FOIE GRAS MOUSSE and DUCK BREAST, with Porto Gelee and Roasted Artichoke was simply silky and divine. Endive was added with a light vinaigrette and more artichokes in the leaf as well as teeny crispy duck fat cubes (at least I think that's what they were) for flavor. A slice of grilled brioche could not have been better! The wine was a Robert Mondavi "Reserve Carneros" 2013 Chardonnay from Napa that at first was like a ton of oak in my mouth, but was amazing with the terrine and even started to gain acidity when the two were paired.
Stew of RABBIT LEG came with Red Cabbage Puree, Horsin Sauce, Purple Potatoes, Pickled Carrots, Red Vein Sorrel and had a broth poured over tableside. The leg and thigh were beautifully dotted with coarse mustard and seeds. I love rabbit and this dish was a winter winner! Thank goodness it was wet and chilly last night! The wine was a superb Resonance Pinot Noir 2018 from Oregon's Willamette Valley, and I never say no to an Oregon Pinot!
BRAISED OXTAIL came covered with BUTTERMILK POTATO MOUSSE, Black Truffle, Salsify and topped with Parsnip Crisps. Chef called it Shepherd's Pie and I called it Shepherd's Pie on crack! A huge Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 from Alexander valley was a great treat. I am not a Cab fan, but this 9 year old wine was drinking lusciously.
GORGONZOLA BLUE CHEESE arrived with PEPERKOEK(gingerbread wafers), Red Wine (Gluwein) POACHED PEARS, a Mushroom jam with onion & apricot and Port Gelee. Cheese courses can be amazing, cheese courses can be a bore, but the love that went into creating this dish was simply perfection. The Emmolo 2017 Merlot from Napa was a nice pairing.
When you name your dessert CHESTNUT, CHESTNUT, CHESTNUT, BEER, TIRAMISU, MASCARPONE, ESPRESSO CACAO the diner will surely wonder what is going to arrive. The bowl of tiramisu with layers of chestnut and what seemed like everything but the kitchen sink was superb. While Chef insisted there was beer as well, I could not taste it and was thankful as I am not a beer fan. The paired wine was a 2005 Eiswein from St. Gisbert's in Rheinhessen, Germany that was pulled from the cellar and exhibited to most intense dark bronze amber hue. The wine was drinking excellently and as a dessert wine fan, I truly appreciated this special treat.
Belga Cafe is a great place to dine and a wonderful casual bistro setting that works for anyone looking for almost any excellent dining experience. I envied the couple next to me who live around the corner and can pop in anytime!

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