Tuesday, May 31, 2016

ESTELA in NYC's East Village is a cute spot for cool cuisine (5-29-16)

Our last dinner in NY at ESTELA (estelanyc.com) brought us to East Houston Street where this small narrow restaurant can be easily missed as it is a 1/2 flight up. The huge front window was open and facing the street which scared me as the temperatures were still warm and they seemed to have no air. It was not perfectly comfortable where we were near the rear, but it was quieter than the front bar area. It's a small unassuming spot with wooden tables, chairs and bar. Even the menu is simple and they serve only organic sodas like ginger ale and ginger beer, so forget your Coke here. Luckily Sam likes Ginger Beer.
I have to mention the bathroom only because it was clean and had nice aromatic spray and hand soap which one often finds lacking in even a good dining establishment these days.
We bypassed the cocktails and Zwan, the sommelieuse was a great help guiding us to a novel French wine from Ardeche called Chasselas by Pierre Gonon 2014 that was deliciously creamy and full of earthy tones. What a superb choice it was with all the starters from the tasty Peter's Point Oysters with yuzu kosho mignonette to the tasty Beef Tartare with Crispy Sunchokes, Onions, Capers and Mustard served with toasted sourdough. Sam insisted on having his own even though the idea is to share here. Burrata with Salsa Verde and charred bread was pretty and served with a sweet potato leaf, and while it was nice, I can always have burrata at home of fine quality for so much less. The salsa verde however was more akin to a Mexican JUGO Verde as it was quite thin but also very vegetable-y and not spicy at all. Samuel loves mozzarella, but refuses to try burrata which I like to call mozzarella on steroids.

For his "main" Sam chose the Steak with Spicy Marmalade, Potatoes and Taleggio cheese, and while he offered me a taste of the marmalade, no steak was forthcoming for me to comment on here.
Will and I chose four superb dishes. First was Fried Arroz Negro with Squid & Romesco that would win a prize anywhere. Our server Siobhan suggested this as her first choice, and whle she seemed to not be feeling too well, this was a spot on hit.
Swordfish with Heart of Palm (sliced in thin long shavings) and Meyer Lemon that was like a chunky glaze we loved.
We had switched to an amazing red thanks to Zwan and fell in love with a Pinot from Lombardy in Italy called 'Ca' Fracia Valtellina Superiore from Balgera that was a 2000 vintage full of amazing earth tones and again superb pairing with all our rich dishes.
 Ricotta dumplings with mushrooms and pecorino sardo indeed had a super rich sauce that was divine. Our final Pork (fotos on FB) with Burnt Cucumbers and leeks was a nice change from the regular pork dishes one sees so often.

For dessert Will ordered the novel Parsnip Ice Cream with Sesame & Caramel which was nice and I had the (surprise) cheese which was a winner of a plate with
Fromage d'Affinois -that creamy super rich brie from Rhone Alps
Gutensberg from St. Gallen in Switzerland which was a real novel treat in the USA
and Picon Bejes from Treviso, Cantabria in Spain where blue rules.
I do have to warn that the cheeses are $8 each and I begged to get a $4 portion of each sharing all three which took some arm-twisting as they don't usually do a 3-cheese plate unless u want 3 full $8 portions!
Zwan found the perfect dessert wines: Domaine Marengo No. 655 Muscat from Corsica 2012 and Vollenweider "steffensburg" Riesling Auslese 2010 Gold Kapsel from Mosel, Germany.

We left full and happy and ready to head back to DC the next day after a wonderful weekend of theater and food in  NYC.

Sunday, May 29, 2016

NYC's TXIKITO in Chelsea is the best Basque around (5-28-16)

We needed a place to eat an early and not too heavy dinner near the Theater District for our second night in NYC. After some research, I found TXIKITO (the Basque name for the Spanish "chicito" or little) at 9th Avenue at 25th Street (240 9th Ave-www.txikitonyc.com) which is simple, basic and friendly but offers up some of the most novel tapas and dishes in NYC.
The 15 minute walk from our Times Square matinee where we saw Aladdin (loads of fun) was a bit taxing in the 90 degree heat, but worth it. On arrival, the restaurant had no opened yet (they open at 530pm), but we were inside the cooler dining room within minutes. The hostess took us to a table in a second room, where we lasted several minutes before moving back to the first room and bar area as the a/c had not yet kicked in! We drank lots of water and ordered up a bottle of 2013 Domaine Ametiza Rose from the Basque region of France made from Irouleguey, Tannat & Cab Franc which was dry and refreshing. I can't ever recall hearing of Irouleguey so this was our first novelty.
The décor is simple with wooden tables in small rooms and simple wooden chairs; it really is a neighborhood spot, and what a treat to find this in my searches.
We chose a number of tapas starters to share and first to arrive (fotos on FB page) was the op winner Esparragos made from Navarran white asparagus marinated in Celery-Black Truffle Vinaigrette with Chopped Egg. We could not get enough of the tasty treat and ended up using the bread to mop up all the excess vinaigrette. Next came a Pintxos, usually a tapas served on bread, sandwich-like and ours was called TUTERA with large toasted bread slices smothered with a Gratin of Artichokes, Roncal Cheese and Jamon. Sam adored these and ended up ordering extras!
Our third starter was as simple yet tasty PULPO which was layered carpaccio of octopus with lemon oil, marjoram and piment d'espelette. It was superb and seasoned just right with delicious fresh green herbs as were most of the dishes (were those the first baby corn shoots of the season on the asparagus?).
Samuel chose the Albondigas (his often go to tapas) but here the huge meatballs were made with lamb and served in a simple minted broth; a big hit.
Will chose the special Suckling Pig with crunchy skin and Chimichurri sauce that was tasty, but did not come close to the amazing quality of my Grilled Brook Trout with Crispy Serrano, Crispy Garlic and Garnacha Vinaigrette.which our server Carlos (who hailed from Guadalajara) said was his favorite special on the menu and whenever it appeared sold out fast; no surprise there. The fish was fileted to perfection with the head and tail and skin still on and smothered with huge layers of crispy crunchy Serrano ham and small pieces of crunchy garlic slices and the sauce which was light, still was rich with butter and lemon and wine that simply made my mouth super happy. It was a sight to behold on the plate and a magnificent revelation in the mouth.
We chose three desserts and Samuel got the winner with Pastel, a lemon scented butter cake with crème fraiche which disappeared fast save for the two bites he shared with us. Cuajada is a goat milk yogurt with honey and walnuts that won no prizes and reminded me of a nice breakfast yogurt. The cheese tray was very nice with Quince Paste and Raisin walnut toast but had three cheeses very similar in texture and could have used a bit more variety. Ossau Irraty, Roncal and Idiazabal are all tasty cheeses from the region that are hard with different flavors and a Blue de Basques was a creamy rich blue we adored,
We loved our little new discovery and found out they have another just tapas spot across the street called El Quinto Pino and two more different places in Brooklyn, one a café, and the other, La Vara in Cobble Hill Park. Check them all out.


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NYC's THE BRESLIN brings brilliant British cuisine stateside (5-27-16)

We headed right from the airport to 5th Avenue and 29th St (16 W.29th) to meet a friend for dinner at THE BRESLIN as I thought it be nice to have some British-style cuisine for a change. We were running about 30 minutes late for our reservation and despite the capacity crowds, the management was most gracious in holding our table due to our flight delay.

It's a busy spot and while noisy, not unbearably so. The décor is eclectic with booths and leather and lots of cows of ceramic, papier mache or other artsy styles, even the coat hooks have longhorn cattle. The tables and floors are dark wood and the ceiling above us looked like tin, but it was not as shiny; perhaps it was ceramic? The menu is not huge, but there are many fun things to share. We had only had several rounds of drinks back in DC at the American lounge and then more on the plane, so another cocktail was in order. I loved the idea of the Pickled Ramp Gibson and asked if it could be made with Vodka. Our sweet server David said he would check and came back with a happy face and ultimately a superb Grey Goose Vodka Gibson with some superb pickled whole ramps in the glass; this beats an olive or onion any day, especially in this spring ramp season when I use them regularly to make one of the best vinaigrettes I can rustle up all year.

We chose some starters to share including a superb miniature BEEF & STILTON Pie which we managed to cut into four totally miniature bites. At $10 it's a pricy two-bite small dish, but has great flavors and is a yummy pastry pie as well. SCRUMPETS were described to us as battered breadcrumb meat sticks which are deep fried, and while they were tasty, especially with the quasi-chimichurri dipping sauce made with malt vinegar for that British touch, the half stick that Samuel got was virtually one big piece of fat with fried breadcrumbs. LAMB MARROW was a special starter and a big winner. We got about 5 or 6 pieces of bones with the albeit very salty marrow and a yummy carrot parsley sauce that cut the salt. These were accompanied by housemade whole wheat bread slices which we could slather th marrow and further cut the saltiness for a super hearty and tasty treat. Our last starter was the first one I spotted on the menu as I have an eye for Sweetbreads. Here they were FRIED SWEETBREADS with 'nduja (that yummy porky sauce), Ramp Kraut (who can resist more of that) and a Black Garlic Aoili and there were chunks of Smoked Blue Cheese for extra flavor; this was a winner for sure.

We wanted a nice rose and David brought over a Schneider & Bieler Cab Franc Rose 2015 from the Finger Lakes in Upstate NY for us to taste as it is served (oddly, on tap) by the glass. It was nice, but we wanted something different and Nick, the sommelier-manager suggested a superb Monteniddo Rose 2015 from San Gimignano in Tuscany made from the Canaivolo grape. It was just right with all the various flavors. Our red wine to follow was a huge winner with the Lopez de Heredia Tempranillo/Granacho blend 2004 from Rioja called Vina Bosconia. It was a great match with the juicy huge Chargrilled LAmBURGERS (A Signature dish) served with Feta, Cumin Mayo and awesome Thrice Cooked Chips (that's fries). It also paired beautifully with the Crescent Duck Breast which came with Duck Sausage as well, a huge potato rosti underneath the entire dish, but still crunchy and flavorful and topped with fermented ramps (YUM) as well as poached rhubarb. Th dish was a perfect medley of flavors and was only marred a little by the fact that the duck skin was quite fatty (I cut it out) instead of crispy, my preferred choice for all duck skin.

We were stuffed and headed to our hotel without dessert to find a plate of cheese, grapes and even mini-cupcakes in our suite on arrival at the Regency; what a nice treat on the start of our big NYC weekend.

Tuesday, May 17, 2016

PENNSYLVANIA 6 in DC provides a perfect meal (5-16-16)

We were invited to dinner last night by our dearest friends at the spanking new PENNSYLVANIA 6 (www.pennsylvania6dc.com) located on Franklin Square at 1350 I St, NW and we were mightily impressed.
Since it was a belated celebration of Will's birthday, we started with Franciacorta Brut Sparkling from Guido Berlucchi in Lombardy which is a delicate super dry sprakling which surpasses the mediocre Proseccos we see so much of these days.
It's a great wine to have with some of the fun starters such as the Olives marinated in Rosemary, Chili and Citrus Aromatics or the super Fresh Ricotta Spread with Olive Oil, Black Pepper & Thyme served on a large slate with Grilled Bread slices and a super yummy, yet mild, Orange-Fig Jam. This is a really great fun starter and in addition you should consider the Sardinian Flatbread. These days, I always avoid the starchy, even though tasty, flatbreads as I prefer to avoid the carbs. This is a very crunchy flatbread that is more like lavosh which is smothered with shaved Aged Goat Cheddar, Radish slices, Arugula, Truffle Oil and 'Nduja, which our ever so sweet server, Olesea, explained was a slightly spicy sausage paste, that I just could not get enough of.
We were thrilled to find an old friend at the helm of the wine program, Sommelier Mark Slater, who hails from Jean-Louis at the Watergate and Citronelle, if you go back some years. He brought out a divine Geroges Vernet 2009 "Les Terrasses de l'Empire" Condrieu which has to be one of my favorite varietals on earth. Condrieu is a very specific varietal of Viognier that comes from a very small region on the Rhone that I could easily visit over and over; I can't wait to go back again as it is so beautiful, and also has magnificent views of the river and the Alps beyond. The nose was to die for and the wine simply earthy and full of body. It was ideal with the Charred Spanish Ocotpus with Gigande Beans, Fennel, "Nduja(more of that!!) and Salsa Verde; this dish is one of the best starters around town. We also tried the superb trio of Crudos of which my favorite was the Black Kingfish (Cobia) with avocado, ginger, palm hearts, serrano chile and citrus ceviche sauce. It sounds busy, but works. The Yellowfin Tuna Crudo with yuzu-miso, mango, roasted peanut and spicy cress was nice, but you know I make the best Tuna tartare around, so the Kona Kampachi Crudo with gooseberries, cumin salt & salsa verde was the least exciting for me.

I noticed a great deal for Happy Hour (4-7pm) at the bar with $1/oysters and $5/oyster shooters....gonna have to return for that, and the bar is huge with a very large lounge area to relax with all those deals.
The raw bar is extensive, but we refrained.
It was hard to choose main courses, and I was torn between the Monkfish Osso Buco but went for the Berkshire Pork Chop with Sweet Potatoes, Candied Pecans, Fried Brussels Sprouts and an amazing Bourbon Lacquer. the meat was perfectly cooked and the portion HUGE, so it will be eaten later in the week for sure. Will chose the 14 ounce Bone-in Fillet with Chimichurri, but they brought extra sauces and the meat was divine, charred on the outside, rare in the middle. Steak is great here and the décor is that of a clubby leathery steak place for sure, but next time I'm headed for the large choice of seafood for sure.
Sides are amazing here from the Wild Mushrooms to Duck Fat Fries which come with a decent ketchup, but an awesome mustard sauce. The Fried Brussels Sprouts which were on my plate can also be ordered as a side and have to be the biggest on earth and the tastiest. FB pictures can be seen of the main courses and desserts.

Our main course wine was a 2008 Pommard "La Chaniere" from Domaine Mallard Pere et Fils which was so fruit forward and truly a revelation. Will got a glass of the much bigger and heartier The Prisoner Zin/Petit Sirah/Syrah
blend that is available by the glass.

Mark brought us amazing Sauternes with dessert, Petite Vedrine 2010 which we all loved and we split two desserts: Spiced Apple Cake with Butter Toffee Pecan Caramel Sauce & Bourbon-Vanilla Gelato and the delish Bread & Butter Pudding with Black Currants, Butterscotch Sauce and Mick Chocolate Gelato.

We all had a great time and there is something for everyone at this new spot in Downtown DC.

Sunday, April 17, 2016

NYC's James Beard House presents the TASTE OF CHARLOTTE with super Southern cuisine (4-16-16)

Last night I was joined by a friend and client at James Beard House where I love to go on an off night in NYC as the events are always a treat.
On arrival, you always pass through the kitchen and this was different as four chefs from North Carolina were working on the hor's d'oevres (check my FB) and the place was a zoo.
I moved to the patio where Bob Peters, Mixologist from the Punch Room at Charlotte's Ritz-Carlton was serving Bottled Sherry with Topo(Top of the Hill) Southern Amaro (made specifically for this event).
The drink had a slight bitterness from the Amaro, but was nice and smooth and was truly ingenious with the many rich treats we were munching especially the Deviled Eggs with Smoked Trout, Trout Caviar, Dill & Pickled Onion (my favorite of them all). Just as rich and tasty was the Ashe Country Cheddar Pimento Cheese, Springer Mountain Farms Chicken Croquettes served in Romescu Sauce. While the starters were a collaboration in most cases, these came from Blake Hartwick of Bonterra Dining & Wine Room in Charlotte. Pastry Chef Ashley Boyd of 300 East in Charlotte and Heritage Food & Drink in Waxhaw created an odd mixture of Peanut Butter Biscuit, Salted Peanut & Black Pepper Ricotta, Muscadine Jam and Celery Sorbet served in a small spoon and while tasty, just had too much going on for my mouth. Green Garlic & Goat Cheese Panna Cotta filled out the group.

We sat down to find awesome hot biscuits in a cast iron skillet on the table with Strawberry Mostarda from Chef Boyd and launched into the first course, again a collaborative effort:
Pastrami-Cured No. Carolina Strip Loin in Cardinal Gin Smoke Oak Staves, NC Pink Lady Apple-Braised Red Cabbage, Toasted Cararway Tuille and Thousand Island Dressing which was one of the best quasi-Rubens ever. They mentioned that we would get take home bags with goodies and I was hoping for pastrami in mine, but alas there was none. This was accompanied by a Bob Peters' Cardinal Barrel Rested Gin Cocktail with Cheerwine "Cherry" a soda like Dr. Pepper from the region that was quite tasty.

Chef Hartwick gave us Ayden No Carolina Fried Catfish in Chicken Fat with BBQ Cauliflower, Pac Choi Slaw, Pickled Ramp Aioli, Geechie Boy Blue Corn Grits and Church Hot Sauce Bubbles which easily was the best catfish I've ever had in my life. Bennett seeds finished off the dish and that hot sauce was bubbling for sure, but all mixed together it was just simply perfection. Chalk Hill 2014 California Sauvignon Blanc was a perfect foil to the spice and fish.

Chef Chris Coleman of the Asbury at Dunhill Hotel in Charlotte prepared Chicken & Dumplings here with Slow-Roasted Springer Farms Chicken, Chevre Gnocchi, Newtown Farm Beets, Arugula, Radish, Pickled Green garlic and Roasted Lemon Jus. Chive, Chervil & Tarragon added depth to this winning dish served with a tasty Claude Riffault La Noue Pinot Noir Rose 2014 from Sancerre.

Chef Paul T. Verica of Heritage Food & Drink in Waxhaw was next with Heritage Farms Pork Belly, Sweet Potato, Swiss Chard, Black-Eyed Peas, Carolina Gold Rice and Cheerwine Glaze. The sauce was amazing and the chard was wrapped around the rice to make a sushi-like roll. If this was not enough, the belly was crispy, tasty and meaty with little unneeded fat. Just right with the 2013 Gilles Robin "Cuvee Papillon" Crozes Hermitage Rhone Blend. The entire dish was covered with shaved sweet potatoes all curled up that were fun as well.

Our pastry chef returned in glory with Local Goat Cheese & (Asheville)White Chocolate Cheese Cake with Textures of Strawberries, Sorrell Puree and Buckwheat Streusel & Marshmallows which was not too heavy despite the cheese and chocolate and I think every plate was cleared completely. Hou Hou Shu "Bubble, Bubble!" Sparkling Sake from Okoyama Japan was a novel sparkling sake that is easily a new fun fave of mine.

Lots of love form this huge team went into planning this dinner (which was slated months and months ago), and we all sadly remarked that our boycotts of North Carolina for the time being will not allow us to visit these great places, but at least they came to us, and I am sure these chefs will do their best to change the mindless efforts of some of their politicians and bring them round with a good plate and drink!



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Saturday, April 16, 2016

another NYC find in FUJI SUSHI (4-15-16)

If you happen to be in NYC and find yourself looking for yet another fine sushi spot between Times Square & Lincoln Center (especially on April 15 to cut costs) then head to FUSHI SUJI (238 W 56th St-between Broadway & 8th Ave) for a great selection and an even greater deal.
I passed this teeny spot twice already in the last day and hundreds of times over the years and it's so narrow and easily missed, I never noticed it. A long narrow room has a bar up front, lots of simple wooden tables and chairs and a sushi bar at the rear where no less than four chefs were working hard to serve the several dozen diners.
I was headed to La Boheme at the Met, is only a 2 hour opera, but with the Mets tedious long intermissions runs just over 3 hours!! I needed a light meal and started with a superb Seaweed Salad which here has a bed of cucumber slices and a cherry tomato on top. Green tea was warming as the evening chill was back again tonight, even at 6pm. I asked my server which if the many rolls and sushi to choose as there some 4 pages of choices and that was just rolls, sushi and sashimi. I chose the NY Beauty and it was indeed a beauty. Each of the rolls here is 8 HUGE pieces of sushi stuffed with Warm Grilled Lobster, Lettuce, Cucumber, Mayo, Avocado & Tobiko. The only thing I could complain about here was the mild wasabi, but the rolls are awesome and this warm one was a novelty for me as I am so used to cold sushi. I ordered a small (180ml) mini-bottle of Saki which was a creamy smooth rice-intense Hanaomai Junmai Katana and a steal for $9, not to mention perfect with the lobster.
I was still a tad hungry, so for "dessert" I made a selection of three sashimi:
Red Skimmer Clam, Mackerel & Salmon Belly were all superbly sliced and served atop a pile of shredded radish and all top notch quality with the tender clams and rich fish.
The whole bill came to about $50 and I was in awe. I shall return to Fuji Sushi....

Friday, April 15, 2016

NYC's ANDANADA is truly the route to terrific tapas near Lincoln Center (4-14-16)

Several years ago I wrote a rave review for a Spanish restaurant near Lincoln Center called Gastroarte, and sadly never returned. I made a reservation to dine with a friend at another place which I did not realize had actually opened in the same location some 4 years ago. ANDANADA (www.andanada141.com) is a cute simple spot at 141 W 69th Street just off the corner of Broadway. Several steps down it is a very white place, with white brick walls, splashy bright art and great food from a Michelin starred chef to boot.

As I entered the place came right back to me as the décor has not changed at all. The menu is simpler with lots of tapas and many paella offerings as well.

We both enjoyed the Pazo Pondal Albarino white as NY was warming up a bit from the past cold spell, and most of the tapas are seafood centric.

A tasty amuse of truffled potato soup came and was gone in seconds. Another item was the Red Endive leaves with a dip of Blue Cheese, EVOO & anchovy that was okay, but won no awards. I adore both blue cheese and anchovies, but something just was not quite right with the flavor combination.

Our first tapas was Grilled White Asparagus with Salsa Verde (called Spanish emulsion in the English) and Mussels which was divine. I had never had the giant white European asparagus in this country before; they arrive in April/May each season and are called Feldspargl in Austria and I miss them horribly. They were a dream here...huge and white and char-grilled to perfection with that simple salsa and several steamed mussels.

Next came Ravioli de Espinacas y Gambas which is a true misnomer. You can see pictures of this on my FB page and they are really spinach stuffed into a shrimp "purse" with gratineed seafood sauce that was creamy and rich with pistachios and shimeji mushrooms; a true marriage of ingredients made in heaven (or this kitchen).

Next was Langosta y Pepino, simply a hollowed cucumber boat filled with Lobster and dabs of Lime aioli. It was simple, refreshing and a perfect dish as the weather warms up.

The last tapas we shared was Salpicon de Pulpo and was the only spicy one we tasted, but cooked perfectly with Cold Octopus layered with spicy peppers and topped with slices of fresh creamy Avocado. It is served like a tart and looks as good as it tastes.

If I had to complain, I would say it was the table location. This one table was set aside from the others which is why I asked for it, but once seated, the servers kept having to knock my arm and back to get past me to the other tables. Also, once we finished our tapas and were waiting for dessert, it took some time before anyone offered to wipe off the several blobs of olive oil or food on the table which had fallen during our meal. These were right in front of me and a bit disturbing.

Dessert was Torrijas de Calabaza which our server explained as French toast-like and it was served with yummy pumpkin ice cream and sugared almonds. It was nice, but won no awards and the menu said it came with vanilla soup, which the server said was never served before??



Not to worry--the food was superb and worth a return visit for sure!

Tuesday, April 12, 2016

RIPPLE rules in DC with Top Chef-testants Marjorie Meek-Bradley hosting Carl Dooley from The Table in Cambridge,MA (4-11-16)

I was lucky enough to snag a seat at last night's awesome dinner at RIPPLE (rippledc,com) where Chef Marjorie Meek0Bradley has held court now for several years. After her recent turn of Top Chef (where she should have won at least Fan Favorite) she is in the process of expanding her empire as well as growing her worthy name. For this amazing dinner she was joined by co-Top Chef contestant CARL DOOLEY who reigns at THE TABLE(www.cambridgetable.com) in Cambridge, Mass. These two are indeed a natural team (as so many of this year's Top Chef-testants were, so hopefully we will see more visiting here) and presented a superb evening of varied and exciting foods while also taking time to greet each diner and chat (catch my FB photos of the meal as well of me with Chef Marjorie).
As I sat down, I decided to take the option of paired wines for each of the five courses but also started with a 1/2 glass (yes, they offer half pours on wines by the glass!) of Weingut Tinhof, Blaufrankish Sparkling wine from Burgenland in Austria which had a sweet nose, a tinge of cherry in the mouth, but was bone dry on the finish; a truly wonderful summer treat for sure.
The magnificent piping hot Salted & Seeded Parker House Rolls arrived in a cast iron pan with 4 to a pan. I was alone, yet I still got four (but ate only 3:-))......while most couples got four as well. The salted butter was divine as it melted faster than I could spread it.
The courses were indeed divided by chefs and we started with the out-of-town guest, Chef Carl, who it turns out had a stint in DC for over a year at the now-departed Palena under DC uber-Chef Frank Ruta.
Terrine of oie Gras & Rabbit Confit was a delight and while it came with a deliciously grilled bread, I skipped most of that and left my carbs for the rolls in between and as a sauce mop. The terrine was beautifully plated with slices of Rhubarb, little dots of Purple Mustard (Chef explained to me this is done with grape must) and Spiced Almonds. As my wine was poured, a Donkey & Goat "Stonecrusher" Rousanne 2014 from El Dorado, California, the server explained it was "orange wine" and my face dropped. I had orange wine only a couple of times prior and the last time it was funk, fermented-tasting and truly awful (check my blog to find out where last year). This was not really funky or offensive like the previous incarnation, and indeed it paired quite well with the dish, although I could never drink this on its own.
Chef Marjorie was up next and always excels at pasta: Here we got a magnificent dish of Spring Pea Agnolotti with Chanterelles, Pickled Ramps, Hazelnut Dukkah & Pea Shoots. The dish was divine and these were my first ramps of the season (oh, I did make Ramp Pesto on Sunday and our son had it with pasta yesterday for lunch, but I have not partaken yet). Christian Lauverjat "Perle Blanche" Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Sancerre from France was a superb Sancerre oddly more citrusy than Sancerre tends to be with a full mouth of acidity that was just right.
I adore tongue, but can't ever recall having pork tongue. Chef Carl here mixed Pork Tongue with Brown Rice Congee, Carrots, Beans, Spring Vegetables, Black Garlic, Ginger, Basil and Coriander that was a miraculous wonder of mouth tastes that had me won from the first bite. We had moved to red wine with an Alain Coudert, Clos de la Roilette 2014 Gamay from Fleurie that I instantly fell in love with. I should note that while the servers worked as a team all night, so I had what seemed to be a dozen different and totally excellent folks serving, it was Matt who won me over with several extra pours. I am already inquiring about this magnificent wine which while light packed a mouthful of great tastes.
Chef Marjorie returned to the fore with La Belle Farms Duck Breast seared rare and served with Braised Endive, Roasted Beets and a White Asparagus-Mustard Puree that was heavenly. I even told her point blank, that this duck was excellent and better than that at Brushstroke in NY just last week. The wine pairing was an Olga Raffault "Les Picasses" Cabernet Franc 2009 from Chinon in the Loire was delicious but had the funkiest nose that I got past quickly. I still was in love with the Gamay I guess.
Finally came Miso-Carrot Cake which was rich and decadent with a White Chocolate Cream Cheese-like Frosting, Benniseeds & a scoop of superb Strawberry Ice Cream. I love carrot cake, but am not a big icing fan, although this dish was superb. The Candied Ginger sprinkled around was perfect to cut the richness and I truly love that stuff, I could have eaten it alone. The wine was a viscous treat with Donnafugatta "Ben Rye" 2013 Zibbibo from Sicily that was loaded with sweet apricots and would give any top notch dessert wine a run for its money and sweetness.
On departure we were treated to a small 3 inch rectangular wrapped treat from The Table in Massachusetts which I opened this morning and was thrilled to find a fruit/nut/grain bar which was just perfect with my coffee. How nice to remember the meal all over again at breakfast. I am so anxious for another event like this as it was indeed a special treat.

An Loi-Columbia, MD's amazing Vietnamese venue for delicious deals (4-10-16)

After a matinee of Sweeney Todd at Red Branch Theatre where Will is in the superb production of Sweeney Todd, a whole bunch of us were looking for a reasonable dinner spot that we could also bring along 4 tweens to.
We found it in AN LOI (http://anloirestaurant.com) an unobtrusive spot in a local strip mall somewhere in Columbia. we all looked at the menu and marveled that virtually nothing cost more than $15 for main courses and $7-8 for starters, so the entire meal was a real bargain. They serve only one brand of wine (Sutter Home) and it's all priced at $15.95 a bottle; it's decent Chardonnay or Cab for the price and works well with the spices (we, of course, avoided the White Zin!).
Shrimp Green Papaya Salad was superb here with good acidity, not a ton of shrimp, but enough, and intriguing enough to get those that had never had it to give it a try and be thrilled to find a new dish. It is served here with Seaweed Jelly & Fish Sauce.
The Grand Combo Appetizer was superb and offered up a lot of choices and comes in varying sizes. We got TWO Grand ones for everyone to share and there was plenty of spare food.
Tops on this dish are the Grilled Grape Leaves stuffed with tasty Beef and served with two Dipping Sauces(for all the starters) of Fish & Peanut Sauces.
The Spring Rolls were large, stuffed to the gills and light as well, the Summer Rolls (what we would call miniature Egg Rolls) were also delish. The Grand Combo can be had with a satay-like grilled beef, chicken or pork though here not served on a skewer and hence not as dry as satay can get. The peanut sauce was amazing with this.
The main courses are hugely varied with dozens and dozens of choices, but noodle soups of varying kinds are the largest selection.
Tai is a Northern Beef Noodle soup with slices of Eye Round Steak. Many of the Pho and Bun are not very spicy (Some are) and you can add as much of the hot sriracha sauce or hoto chili in oil on each table's lazy susan loaded with various condiments.
If you seek Bun, try the Bun Ba Mon which allows you to combine three different items in the bowl.
The bowls are all huge and the broths are super, not to mention the top quality noodles.
I had the Hu Tieu Hoac which comes with rice or egg noodles in a rich chicken broth with minced pork, garlic, scallion and believe it or not a SIDE dish with a 1/4 dark meat of Crispy Fried Chicken and amazing Ginger Dipping Sauce.
Pickled Cabbage, Sprouts, Basil, Coriander and more veggies are piled high on a plate to allow you to manage your dish so it does not overflow. Needless to say, few of us finished our monster bowls and we all skipped dessert, but enjoyed the little Tamarind Sucking Candies that came with the check!
We don't get to Columbia a lot, but this was a fun spot and such a bargain, we would easily reconsider it if in the area.

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Sunday, April 10, 2016

New York Japanese jewels-a super lunch deal at Times Square's SHIMIZU and a beautiful BRUSHSTROKE tasting and experience in Soho(4-7-16)

I was in NYC for a quick business trip and was invited to a business lunch at the Washington-Jefferson Hotel (318 W 51st St) near Times Square where SHIMIZU-Sushi & Shochu Bar has it's home.
I could not believe the $19 or so lunch deal which not only included a bowl of some of the best MISO Soup, but also a small salad. This accompanies virtually any of the lunch combos, and I chose the Chef's Sushi Selection with a 6piece Mexican Roll(Yellowtail, scallion, avocado & Spicy Jalapeno mayo) which was really delicious and not that spicy. The sushi platter had a huge selection of large fish as well as a tofu sushi and I have to say that I was full before I even got to this (my hosts had ordered edamame & dumplings to start, which was just too much).
I spent the afternoon walking across Manhattan and visiting the Morgan Library then worked a bit before heading downtown to BRUSHSTROKE at 30 Hudson Street. The elegant restaurant has an all glass front looking into the happenings centered around a long sushi bar of about 20 seats. All the tables, chairs and floors are blonde wood yet quite comfortable. The service was beyond impeccable and I was constantly taken care of by the excellent staff. Sommelier Steven brought my plum colored, but not sweet UME SAWA, a cocktail of Kissui Rice Vodka, Casoni Aperetivo, Yuzu & Plum Jam and I perused the menu which consists of a couple of tasting options and ala carte as well.
I settled on the Spring Kaiseki Menu (at $135) which seemed to be what almost everyone else was doing and settled in for an amazing journey that lasted over 4 hours.
My servers Taylor & Dario always refilled my sparkling Saint Geron water which was very nice and a new brand for me, and of course, Steven always had the wine pairing (extra cost) to me just before each course so I could taste, and refilled when I really seemed to need more :-)). FYI an entire selection of photos can be seen on my FB page including that of the sushi master chef, Mitsunori Isoda, who was constantly working the most intricate miracles right in front of me for the entire evening.

Sakizuke:Cape Cod Scallop & Uni with Strawberry Lemon Foam and Tosazu Lemon Gel arrived and from from the first bite of the soft scallop combined with urchin I knew this was going to be a mouthful of flavor for each bite all night.

Nimonowan:Rabbit Sakura-Shinjo (dumpling) in Rabbit Dashi Broth was a soft rabbit white meat loin dumpling that was oh so tender in the most subtle of broths scattered with thinly sliced daikon and tasty cherry blossoms, which I later learned are dried on arrival to preserve them and give them a yummy slight crunch. Paired with a 2012 Ziereiser Spatburgunder from Baden, Germany with slight earthiness, thick legs and a lighter red body. The pairing, as they all were, was ingenious.

Tsukuri:Long Island Amadai Usuzukuri was a Tilefish sashimi from right nearby in Long Island(who knew??) magnificently presented with razor thin radishes and daikon as well as green scallions. The fish itself was buttery and rich and worthy of any great sushi master and accompanied by a superb soy dip that was blended with seaweed for amazing flavor. Here served with a Riesling Trocken from Karthauser Hof, Ruwer Dry in the Mosel (Ruhr) that had thick white legs, guts and a spicy finish.

Hashiyasume:this course was a Ramp & Bluefoot Mushroom Chawanmushi or Steamed Egg custard that was super thick like creme brulee, but rich and earthy with the ramp & mushroom flavors as well as pieces of bluefoot.  Steven brought me saki in a Waterford glass(some were Schott Crystal) Daishichi Minowamon , a superb smooth creamy rich higher in alcohol Junmai Daiginjo Kimoto from Fukushima that I fell in love with as it richness matched the custard. While the only thing I did not like all night was the small wooden spoon to eat this dish was because I could not really get all the custard at the bottom, I was thinking, Thomas Keller(whose reknowned custard at the French Laundry is world famous)--eat your heart out.

Hassun:Japanese Red Snapper Sakura(leaf) Sushi, Scottish Salmon Yuan-Yaki, Hawiian Hearts of Palm Soup was next and the dish was served with more cherry blossoms and Tasmanian Mustard Miso sauce. The Hearts of Palm was a creamy veggie soup that reminded me of squash soup with a Chive Sancho Oil swirl. the wine was a divine Domaine Lafon 2014 Mersault & Petite Mensang blend from Burgundy. At this point Chef Isoda handed over an additional plate that he created just for me with two pieces of Sashimi, Anago (sea eel) and Fatty Toro(tuna) with a warm soy sauce.....this was all so overwhelming, I did not know where to start between all 5 items, which were indeed amazing.

Shiizakana: The main course offers a choice and I opted for the Smoked Cherry Wood Grilled Long Island Duck Breast with Garlic Red Wine Reduction, Sakura Leaf, Onion Blossom, Flowers, Shanso Peppers and more; it was beautiful. The Santa Rita Jills 2012 Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara was brought by Steven as he also offered a bigger Domaine de la Cote from Lompoc next to it for comparison. I felt like a king unable to choose.

Gohan is the final savory course and also offered a choice of this rice based dish:Stewed Fuji-Pork Belly with Black Rice, Japanese Mustard, Chive with cucumber, Daikon, and Brine-Fermented Veggies with a Brown Miso on the side. I loved this, but was getting quite full by now and was happy to see more Sake arriving in the form of Hatsumago Junmai Kimoto,

Dessert is again a choice and I tried to go simple with Black Truffle Ice Cream with Tuffle Honey & Almond Nuts which arrived with a  gold leaf and reminded me of tiramisu gone truffle with chocolate powder, not to mention a drizzle of balsamic.
The wines were again a pair to compare with Rare Wine Co.Madeira Special Reserve Sercial from Charleston which was nice and a superb Marsala Superior Vignia di Miceia Oro Marco de Bartoli.

At this time I apologize for what must be multiple spelling errors, but not for indulging in this truly amazing experience made so special by the entire top notch team at BRUSHSTROKE, where a meal is truly a work of art.

Wednesday, March 23, 2016

ABSOLUTE NOODLE in DC's Chinatown may be absolutely the best ramen around (3-22-16)

If you are near Chinatown or the Penn Quarter and love noodles and want a supreme deal head to ABSOLUTE NOODLES (www.aboslutenoodles.com) at 772 5th St, NW.
This tiny place with a bar, open kitchen, several tables, a take-out station is nothing fancy for sure. The tables, floors and chairs of wood don't make it very comfortable either, and the fact that only 3 tables were occupied scared me.
The menu is large, varied Asian, mostly noodles and literally DIRT CHEAP. This is the spot to head for ramen and a deal in DC.
I started with the LARB GAI, a traditional Thai dish with minced chicken, herb-infused rice powder, cilantro, scallion, red onion, mint & basil leaves and julienne carrots all marinating in a seviche-like Thai LIme Dressing over Romain lettuce leaves used to wrap the tasty meat and eat a la lettuce-wrap. It was spicy, satisfying ans superb. The portion was huge for a starter and now I was worried as I had ordered the Ramen Special and saw the huge bowls coming out all over the place. I also ordered a glass of Starborough New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, a budget brand for sure, but it was super with all the spice in both my dishes.
My main ramen was the KIMCHEE RAMEN which was a gorgeous bowl (see FB foto) of Beef, Kale, Bean Sprouts, Ear Mushrooms, Poached Egg, Noodles and Kimchi on top which melted into the dish making is a bit less spicy with each spoonful as I mixed and munched. I could not believe the quality of this budget dish...and while I had a show in 1 hour after my arrival, I had eaten in exactly that time and leisurely as well....for under $30 for both courses and the wine without tax and tip!!!!!!!!!
ABSOLUTELY amazing.

Monday, March 21, 2016

Arlington's SER serves up superb Spanish (3-20-16)

Last night, six of us headed back to SER in Arlington where we had a superb meal last summer and promised to come back.
The place was busy at 6pm and justifiably so as everyone scurried around to get the full house served.
We had a super time and great food, and again my only complaint is the truly hard wooden chairs (I forgot the cushion!).
Both the sparkling and still water is Spanish Sant Aniol which we liked and our friends raved about. Even the delicious olive oil on the table is top notch Spanish:Los Aljibes.
We ordered a bottle of tasty Epifano Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero and it was really yummy with some nice spice. The vintage was 2013. When we asked where the bottle was apparently they had thought we only wanted two glasses, so they just brought us another whole bottle (and did not charge for the first two glasses), but this was a 2014 which was smoother and finer indeed.
My starter was a superb and large plate of Octopus a la Gallega which was sautéed with paprika and a couple of tiny potatoes; some of the tastiest I have had in ages and different since it was not grilled.
Will and Samuel had the excellent STEAK TARTARE which is made with Santona anchovies(although Sam asked for his without), an organic quail egg and piparra (mild Basque chili peppers). There is a gorgeous salad on the side with beautiful colorful flowers, tasty fresh-as-can-be greens and top quality shaved radishes.
Samuel also had the Pan Catalana which is a glorified garlic bread with EVOO and tomato sauce as well.
Croquetas are crisp and yummy outside with ham, chicken and molten cheese inside.
I thought of trying the Salmorejo which we loved so much in Spain, but a cold tomato soup(akin to gazpacho, but better) was not possible on such a wet and chilly night.
The hot Red Bean Soup Special was a hit for sure though in this weather.
For main courses, Will thought his Bacalao a la Vizcana needed a bit more seasoning on the salted cod with choricero peppers, and scallion tempura.
The Sirloin Bavette was a successful tender steak and the burger was amazing with a side of patatas Bravas(chunky fried potatoes with a side of tomato sauce) not to mention the small pickled peppers and a beautiful mini-salad of various lettuces, tomato and onion on the bun.
I almost went for the Rabbit, Duck & Chicken paella (next time) but moved to the lighter and superb Cordonices con Endrinas or Roated Organic Quail wuth Patxaran Sauce(made from a Spnish liqueur) which our helpful server Gabruiel explained as a sweet & sour sauce, but it was really more of a light glaze that was simply divine on the tasty little birds.
The salad special was composed of more of the amazing colorful flowers and varied greens but with salmon, avocado and spinach as well. Salads are indeed a treat here and it's only March!
Dessert here should not be missed as we recalled the amazing GOXUA from last time served in a layered mason jar with strawberries, cream, sponge, custard and a brulee on top that makes this such a tasty treat.
The Dark Chocolate Souffle was a hit as well and is akin to molten lava cake, so was a big hit with Samuel.
We went home very very full and happy with a truly wonderful evening of food and friends to remember.

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Sunday, March 20, 2016

WINE at Wolf Trap did not work so well this year (Design Cuisine had duds) 3-19-16

Last night was the 8th annual Wine at Wolf Trap, which in the past has been not only a fun event for an intimate crowd held in the Barns at Wolf Trap in Vienna, VA, but also a superb wine and food experience.
As always there was excellent Champagne and passed hor's d'oevres including excellent Peking Duck rolls, Quail Eggs with a tad of caviar, earthy-tasty Mushroom Cups and superb braised Beef in an adorable little spoon.
We moved into the theater for our dinner where as always the music got too loud and we had to raise our voices in conversation. I am thankful that I always get seated far from the stage under the balcony overhang where the noise is a bit lessened. Many of us spoke about how fine dining these days is so often marred by a WAY TOO LOUD setting is so many restaurants; this was similar, but not awful.
The seated 5 course meal started with a truly perfectly cooked SEARED FOIE GRAS glazed with Rhubarb on a crispy Brioche Toast with a small piece of Crispy Serrano Ham on Top. Alone it was a dream dish, but none of us at the table could figure out the wine pairing. All the wines at the seated dinner were from Bonneau Wines in Sonoma and were introduced by John Bambury, the vintner and GM, who was most charming, but sadly could not be heard over the loud noise the crowd made as he attempted to tell us about the wines. At any rate, a 2013 Bonneau Sauvignon Blanc (from Monterey & Mendocino) was the wine which we all agreed a good wine, but the worst choice with all its citrus front loaded to charge at the foie gras. Many glasses on the table were left half full for the competent serving staff to take away.
Next was a gorgeous plate of CRISPY PORK BELLY with a SEARED SCALLOP sitting opposite on a superb Seaweed Salad. Next to the scallop was a pile of Vegetable Ash which was weird indeed and in between the two was what was called a "Parmesan Puree" but it was really a Mayo barely flavored with the cheese. While the dish was good, many of us got hugely fatty pieces of belly that were indeed inedible. We also all agreed that these should be TWO different courses as the belly was so fatty it totally overpowered the amazing scallop and its seaweed bed. The wine was  a 2012 Bonneau Chardonnay from St. Catherine's Vineyard in Carneros which was superb and a brilliant choice with the scallop, not with the pork. Indeed it was the next wine served with the third course, a 2012 Bonneau Pinot Noir, which was nice, but very light, that should have been paired with the pork.
This Pinot was actually served alongside the 2009 Bonneau Petit Sirah that was almost everyone's favorite wine all night and worked like a gem with the third course of GRILLED WAGYU TENDERLOIN. A friend next to me said this plate reminded him of hotel food, and while I was not totally in agreement as the meat was delicious, the accompanying Barley Risotto was so overcooked I could not even consider it. Roasted Beets were really a collection of nice Root Veggies.
From here the meal took a decidedly downward turn into an oblivion it could never recover from. STILTON SOUFFLE with Fig Chutney was really more of a miniature Potato Puff, (no souffle was ever this heavy) with nice chutney on the side as well as a yummy slice of the Stilton Cheese itself. One bite of the "souffle/puff" was enough for me, but I did enjoy the cheese. A 2011 Bonneau Cabernet Sauvignon was lighter than many of its California cousins, but drinkable for sure in its youth.
I have no clue who was thinking when they decided on SWEET POTATO DOUGHNUTS which came to our table in varying sizes on a plate with some Brown Butter Ice Cream and a tad of Salted Caramel. The doughnuts were not only cold, but they were hard as if cooked ages before, perhaps in a previous incarnation. The only thing I could even eat on the plate was the salted caramel, which unfortunately was also so cold and hard it had to be scraped off the plate with a spoon. 2009 Bonneau Nectar de Carneros is a dessert wine that I enjoyed but would win no prizes At least it got the cold gumminess from the doughnuts off my palate.

Perhaps the error here started with trying to pair one winery with the meal, as before it has been one distributor with many varying wines that can offer the needed varietal tastes for a meal like that (which incidentally costs $500 per person and should therefore be QUITE impressive as it has always been). Perhaps nobody ever tasted some of the dishes with the wine, perhaps no food expert even thought out the dishes themselves which seemed to be an effort way beyond Design Cuisine's capability. I am indeed so sorry.


Sunday, March 13, 2016

Shirlington's new PALETTE 22, perhaps in need of a more thorough review (3-11-16)

Samuel and I had theater tickets at Signature last night and decided to eat at PALETTE 22 (www.palatee22.com) which opened up across the street where Extra Virgin held court for so many years until it closed about 2 years ago. The large space has been empty for a long time, so the restaurant was a welcome neighbor for sure. The place opened only three weeks ago, yet the lines were out the door when we arrived before 6pm. Luckily we had a reservation.
Inside the folks were lined up in a crowd around the reception area, blocking access to the restaurant and huge bar entry beyond. As they have outdoor seating and it was gorgeous last night, the servers were having lots of trouble maneuvering around the crowd to get to the people seated outside.
We were seated quickly at a table right next to a woman who was on a computer hooked up to a large screen. She was photoshopping her photographs, many of which were quite interesting. Other artists are scattered around the place painting or doing their things and artwork adorns the walls and is for sale, as our server Elizabeth explained. This clearly explained the Palette name, but not the 22, which seemed a bit harder for anyone to figure out. It seems the owners have another place with a "22" in the name, but nobody knows why.
The décor is simple with concrete floors, lots of glass walls to see outside and let the light in, high ceilings and wooden tables and chairs which all tend to lend to loud noise reverberation. Sadly, there was loud thumping music making the decibel level even higher. At times, I had to ask Elizabeth to come closer to explain the menu or repeat what she had said as it was indeed so noisy. Each table has a small tin of flatware and a pile of plates, so that you don't have to ask for fresh flatware as the many different plates arrive. Tapas-style is the rule here with every dish ringing in at less than $15 and most being quite large and filling.
I ordered a White Sangria made from Gin, Spanish Brandy, apple orange and citrus which was a fruitless drink(not your typical sangria) that was strong and tasty, but nowhere near as refreshing as the super white sangria from La Tasca that I have loved for years.
My biggest problem here is that once we ordered, Elizabeth explained that the dishes come out when ready and in no particular order. Well, they all came out together and since we ordered 5 that was not good. I like to eat in a leisurely mode, and I like my food hot or at least warm if meant to be. The three dishes I ordered came out in reverse order, causing me to rethink my drinks and order a glass of white instead of red later on. When a place is so crazy, as this was, I often feel that we are rushed. Indeed, we were out the door in less than an hour!
I ordered (in this order, but arrival was reversed) TAKAYAKI, SINGAPORE CHILI-CRAB Potstickers and TACOS VAMPIROS.
Samuel ordered the same tacos and a CAPRESE FLATBREAD.
There are many flatbread and taco options, but I wanted to taste different things.
Indeed Sam & I agreed the Tacos Vampiros of skirt steak, serrano rajas, avocado, chipotle salsa and melted gooey queso cotijo were super. They come on upright taco holders with soft tortillas doubled so the cheese can be on one layer and the fillings on the other. Samuel liked his flatbread for sure, but said it won no prizes.
I went on to the Potstickers which for me were the star of the evening filled with sambal, nappa (why do they spell Napa wrong on the menu?) cabbage, crab and have a sweet soy dipping sauce. The sambal packs a punch and the dish is ndeed very spicy which made it even better.
May Takoyaki arrived late and I was not sure what to expect even after Elizabeth explained the dish (Spanish Octopus, Ginger, Bonito, Nori, Citrus and Kewpie Mayo) more like a salmon cake on potato. Well, you can see a phot on my FB page, and while it looks fascinating I can best describe it as a fish gnocchi with dried tuna flakes. It was tasty for sure with an oddity to the consistency and indeed was more fishy than octopus in flavor, largely due to the showering of the bonito in large amounts. The flakes were cellophane-like and large and actually repeatedly got stuck to the roof of my mouth. I ordered a glass of Washington State Pacific Rim Gruner Veltliner which was nice to wash down this dish as it was so fishy.
We were full indeed so 2-3 tapas is plenty depending on what you choose, and be sure to make a trip to the loo where the room has cool and lively wall  paintings.
Shirlington lost Extra Virgin a long time ago, and it had become a very noisy disco-like place with bands playing all the time at its demise. Most recently The Curious Grape also came to its end. The neighborhood has plenty of good dining spots, but still yearns for something a bit finer.

Monday, March 07, 2016

GARRISON is great and awesome American cuisine with Chef Weland doing wonders (3-6-16)

Garrison opened on 8th St, SE on Capitol Hill last year (http://www.garrisondc.com/) and has been receiving major raves ever since.
Last night I had the pleasure of being joined by a hotelier friend and Samuel for a superb evening that I can say was top notch.
On arrival we fell in love with the long narrow space which offers a quieter location than many of its noisy neighbors with comfy booths lined up as well as tables but in such a manner that the noise levels keep pretty manageable.
The kitchen is at the rear and there is a hum in this area as the food is plated and served from the dining side so we can all see what's ging on before it gets to the table!
We perused the wine list and fell in love with the wide variety and even tasted the wine(as it was available by the glass) before ordering a bottle of the Early Mountain 2013 "Novum" from Virginia which is mostly Cabernet Frabnc with Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon. It's a super red with lots of earthiness and body and minimal tannins for drinking now; good with almost anything.
An amuse that got us totally excited arrived in a small shot glass filled with Celery Root Soup, a small piece of seared Foie Gras, Burgundy Truffle shavings, Frizzled Leeks and Sorrel. It was a superb mix and I only wanted to lick the small glass, but alas it was too small and narrow, so some truffle shavings were still stuck at the bottom!! Even Samuel declared it divine, although he left his small piece of foie!
There are numerous choices here, but the menu is simple with starters, vegetables, a couple each of pastas, fish mains and meat mains, but I was able to construct a meal that was hugely filling and not even eat a main!
Samuel knew he was starting with the Virginia Bison Tartare (photos on FB!) which was quite a filling and huge portion, and I knew I had better order my own if I wanted a taste! There was just the right amount of tartare which I found was mixed with dashi, miso and a tad of sour cream as binder which made this a completely different version from the French mustardy-salty-caper type of tartare. Chef Weland has indeed made this a true Virginia tartare. The meat is piled on two large slabs of crunchy bread with a slice of local turnip underneath and a splay of peppercress and bottarga for saltiness. I could have easily made a dinner out of two portions.
Our guest ordered the Fluke Crudo which was quite a large portion as well with lemon, fennel fronds and horseradish.
For her main course she chose the gorgeous Virginia Bison Hangar Steak with Pierogi, Caramelized Onions and Roasted Beets(more photos on FB) which was as yummy as the tartare and bursting with flavors.
Samuel chose the Sweet Potato Tortellini with Black Walnuts, Sage and a Brown Butter Sauce that was gone very quickly, so I never got a taste.
I decided to skip a main and go for a second "starter" of Crispy Veal Sweetbreads with Kabocha Squash Puree, Red Onion Marmalade, Toasted Pumpkin Seeds & Oil, with Milk Poached salsify and Fresh Greens. It was cooked to perfection and much larger than a starter, but not quite the size of a larger entrée, so I was thrilled. We all shared the Roasted Cauliflower with Pine Nuts, parmesan & Pickled Peppers that was a superbly created mix of flavors.
Indeed we were all full and went home quite happy only after being given a yummy chocolatey mint candy that dissolved in your mouth....
I have to add that on Sunday night, Garrison might be full, but the parking is quite easy (and free) in the area and furthermore, there was no traffic getting to and from the Hill making this a quick jaunt and a pleasure as well!

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Tuesday, March 01, 2016

SUCCOTASH is super for Southern fare with a twist (2-29-16)

Last night, almost a dozen of us joined at National Harbor which Top Chef contestant Edward Lee set up shop last year with Succotash (www.succotashrestaurant.com) under the helm of Chef Lisa Odom and a top notch staff that offers superb service. Our server Manny was on his toes all night and never seemed to fail. He, along with our gracious hosts, said the best deal is the "Taste of the South" served family style for the whole table and available only for tables of 6 or more. At $39 per person this monster meal offers so many dishes with still plenty left to take home. We each seemed to want an extra little dish or so, but that went swimmingly well as we tasted the additional Deviled Eggs with Dijon Mustard & Liverwurst; the awesome Fried Oyster "Rich Boy" is a twist not to be missed with Trout Roe, Duke's "Remoulade" and Pear Slaw adorning the juicy fried oyster sandwich!
The meal was served with two wines, Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2014, superb with the oysters, eggs and starters and Avalon California Cabernet 2013, which I really enjoyed with the heavier meat dishes.

The "Taste of the South" started with Smoked Chicken Wings in the most delightful of White BBQ sauces and Celery Slaw on the side that was irresistible. Next came the miniature iron pan filled with Pimento Fundido, sizzling cheese laced with Caramelized Onions, Corn Relish and served with tasty Seed Crackers to mop up the melted cheesy goo, that could benefit from a little less greasiness. I even tried a bit of the Crystal Louisiana Hot Sauce on every table for some spice! Fried Green Tomatoes could be the best in town, battered and fried perfectly with no hint of greasiness and served on a huge plate covered with Arugula, Goat Cheese and a superb drizzle of Buttermilk Dressing; their crunch was divine. The Weisenberger Mills Skillet Cornbread could win a prize, also served in a skillet it is an unsweetened bread with scallions, but topped with a knob of Sorghum Butter that you can't get enough of. Every piece was gone and we mopped up every last dribble of the butter.
The starters ended here, but the deluge of food did not. Baby Back Ribs are cooked with dry House Rub in an Apple Cider Vinegar BBQ Sauce that will have you licking your fingers. Oh, I forgot to mention the napkins have button holes like back in the days of first class airline travel, so your napkin won't fall and you can protect your shirt front from all the amazing sauces! Crispy Local Blue Catfish was another award winning dish and didn't have any of that usual sliminess catfish can often have. Frying here is indeed a perfected art and the Jalapeno-Mint Aioli with large Burnt Lemon pieces to squeeze over the crunchy fish pieces make it truly worthy. The Dirty Fried Chicken (dark meat with Spicy Gochujang Honey, Blue Cheese & Pickles) was the last main to arrive, so we all divided it up to take home for dinner tonight, as we were nearing the satiated level.
Sides are also included in the deal with creamy rich Bacon Mac'n'Cheese & the amazing Collards & Kim-Chi, another brilliant Asian influence from Chef Lee. We could not resist ordering the excellent daily vegetable special: Crispy Brussel Sprouts with Fried Pecans in Vinegar Sauce. The Creamed Onions & Cabbage also followed along suit, as did the wow your palate Succotash Curry (some had it without the curry, but that seemed silly to me!).
The "Taste of the South" includes two desserts as well and while I tried to resist I managed to taste the very rich and sweet Chocolate Bourbon Pie with Orange Whipped Cream and eat a bite of the superb Nutter Pecan Sandies served with Chocolate Puddin' & Vanilla Whipped Cream, which was creamy yummy.
Alas, our host mourned the departure from the menu of the Hummingbird Cake! We missed nothing though as we were full to the brim and rolled home happy to know that Southern cooking, albeit with a terrific twist is alive just minutes from DC!

Monday, February 29, 2016

Chef Cedric's CONVIVIAL is in it's own class and grades an A+(2-27-16)

Saturday night we headed to CONVIVIAL just behind the Convention Center where Chef Cedric Maupillier has set up his new top rated dining spot, and it's no surprise why he gets consistent raves.
The four of us sat down and perused the menu which our courteous server Stephane explained as broken into three major categories of Nibbles, Cold & Hot with each dish being about the same size and begging to be shared. The four of us (well, maybe not Samuel) were excited about so many options and tried to narrow it down as we ordered some bottle water. we couldn't have been happier when the BADOIT arrived as it tends to be rare and costly ($6 here, not so bad) in the USA.
Yummy bread arrived in small paper bag as olive oil was poured, and we tried to resist, knowing that a lot was to come.
We ordered a bottle of Domaine de la Rossignole "Cuvee Vieilles Vignes" 2014 Sancerre, super tasty dry wine, that arrived a bit to chilly for my taste, but left on the table came around to the perfect temperature when our first nibbles arrived:
BRANDADE CROQUETTE were cooked perfectly and richly filled with cod and served over a red pepper puree
LATKE with Celery Root & Dry Cured Lamb were four adorable pieces full of flavor and topped with a small piece of the lamb for added flavor. I have to make these next Hannuka!
The winning dish was Stephane's suggestion (he always chose perfectly): DUCK EGG BEIGNET with Piperade ( a dipping sauce of tomato & red pepper) with feat. A photo of these wonders can be seen on my FB page as the stand erect in the sauce as crispy fried treats filled with egg perfection.
Chef Cedric uses his sauces here as great accents and not being afraid of a little spice here and there as well.
We next chose several COLD dishes which began with a divine CURED ARCTIC CHAR with Tarama, Apple, Elderberry Dye & Shoots. This is sushi gone classy French/Greek/who knows what, but we loved it. The apple was the perfect foil and the tarama is always a winner at our table.
SOCCA is a large Chickpea Gallette served with Shaved Beets, Orange, Shaved Fennel & Picholine Olive and is a real flavorful dish that doesn't seem to come from anywhere, but tastes great.
The cold winner was easily the VEAL TARTARE which Samuel insisted on not only having his own, but taking part of ours. The dish is served with Pontargue (Mullet Roe--usually botarga), Cancoillotte(Cheese), Oyster Leaf, Argan Oil with Nicoise Olive Cracker. This dish can win a tartare prize just for the elements such as the oyster leaf which while a green indeed tastes like an oyster after a bit!

We moved onto red wine in the form of a Domaine du Pourra "La Reserve" Gigondas from 2007. Bravos, kudos and more go the team that got this perfectly aged wine that Stephane opened to breath for an hour before as well. It was aged magnificently and is drinking superbly now. Our "hot" dishes were indeed hefty, so this was a winner pairing with a creamy finish and bright fruit bearing up against the softened tannins.
FRIED CHICKEN "COQ AU VIN" was right up Samuel's alley and this treat is glazed with the coq au vin sauce and then served over a similarly glazed potato. Samuel was kind enough to share a small bite.
The BEEF POT AU FEU is made with yummy Cheek, Tongue and a slightly chewy piece of Tendon with Bone Marrow and the hot broth is poured over these tableside with a Sauce Gribiche on the side. The PETIT CASSOULET is a gem with Sausage, Pork Belly, Duck & Bacon(?) covered with bread crumbs and cooked perfectly. Anyone from Toulouse would rave!
The vegetable dish we chose was also a winner:BARLEY PILAF with SUNCHOKES, Lemon, Cashew, Goat Cheese Curd and shaved crunchy sunchokes on top.

Dessert is a winner here, so save room for a number if you can:
HOT STICKY TOFFEE Pudding with Maple Ice Cream had Will reminiscent of Yorkshire.
KEY LIME & SPECULOOS PIE is a fun take on the American dish with the Flemish cookie treat.
CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING with Bourbon Sauce & Rum Raisin Ice will please the pickiest bread pudding connoisseur
but my favorite was the VANILLA CREME BRULEE which was a perfect brulee that won because of it's BLACK MERINGUE "bark" piled on top like sticks.

We left full, happy and OH SO CONVIVIAL that we found a new hit dining spot in DC.

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Valentine's value (or anyday) is awesome at AL DENTE (2-14-16)

Each year the prices go up and the offerings go down at local restaurants on Valentine's Day, so we decided to head out with some friends and forego the romantic atmosphere. We always like AL DENTE about 3 minutes away and last night, Chef Roberto Donna was managing a packed house aided by his super-manager Cliff and a team of great servers. The lines were evident, but folks were seated quickly and food was superb. The deal here was three ourses for $49.95. Yes, it's a tad more than restaurant Week, but a great deal if you were having a $25 or so entrée. Add this to Sunday Wine specials at 1/2 price for bottles over $50 and you have BIG savings.
Samuel went right for his gnocchi with pork sausage ragu and his friend Oliver gobbled up almost an entire pizza.
Will & I Started with margaritas; traditional for him and the Mele-Rita for me made with Jose Cuervo Gold, Honey, Solerno Blood Orange Liquor and Lime---a great variation that was tasty for sure.
To start, Will had the Prosciutto di Parma with Burrata, Honey and EVOO which was a huge late of some of the most tender, soft and supple prosciutto ever. Our friend, Stephen & I both had the filling Ribollita, a rich hearty soup of beans and kale that was just right in the less than 20degree temps! Sadly, we were so full after just one bowl.
After a nice rest the entrees arrived and Will had his Quattro Staggione Pizza which has olives, mushrooms, and artichokes in each quadrant, but he switched the ham for pepperoni. The pizzas here are some of the best in town and are way more than a meal. Stephen had the superb Grilled Branzino with Sauteed Spinach and a yummy Salsa Verde, while I went for the special  of Pork Cheeks in Rich Chianti Reduction over Mashed potatoes that I ended up taking a good half of home as I was indeed so full from the soup.
Our wine was a superb Palladino Nebbiolo d'Alba 2011 from Serralunga d'Alba that was velvety and full of flavors that worked ideally with the pork and pizza.
Desserts were the always awesome Al Dente Tiramisu and a yummy rich Panna Cotta with Sour Cherries and whipped cream (which I skipped).
A Valentine's Day meal that would make anyone on a budget happy and full to boot.

Friday, February 12, 2016

Capitol Hill's SONOMA is a sure bet (2-11-16)

For the first time ever, I completely lost my notes (and pen) heading to the car last night in the freezing cold, so I will try to reconstruct this from memory!
We dined at SONOMA (www.sonomadc.com) at 223 Pennsylvania Ave, NW and it's been well over a decade since I was there last. I recall it was California cuisine but now its very local bistro food with pizzas, pastas and burgers, but Chef John M(sorry I forgot his last name) really know how to improvise as we arrived with a coupon for a tasting menu for 2 and he did it great justice.
Shari, the asst. manager took care of us well, filling our glasses and making us happy on what I feel was our Valentine's Day early date (I hate prix fixe menus on Feb 14th with high costs and crowded spaces!) since we are headed out with the kids and friends this Sunday to one of our local spots (not for kissing).
Shari poured a J. De Telmont Grand Reserve Chardonnay-based Champagne which was dry and tasty, but the slight draft from the cold (and we were far from the door) made me yearn for red wine that had no chill. A gorgeous amuse of Fried Oyster with Bacon jam & Chipotle Sauce arrived and really warmed me up, especially the jammy part that had bacon bits for bursts of flavor.
Next came a glass of Brandborg 2013 Pinot Gris from one of our favorite Oregon wineries we discovered almost 2 years ago while in the Umpqua Valley. I was surprised to see it on th menu as I did not realize they had gotten local distribution in DC!
It was pared with a Squash Risotto which had Crunchy Pumpkin Seeds on top that we loved and a splash of rich Pumpkin Seed Oil for added flavor. The risotto was al dente and won me over instantly, not to mention warmed me up.
The décor here is unremarkable with exposed brick walls and unfinished ceilings with exposed pipes; it's the food that stars. I saw yummy pizzas, pastas, soups and burgers all over the place and what seemed to be many devoted locals enjoying the atmosphere.
Next came a yummy Rosso di Montalcino paired with a magnificent Tagliatelle with Butter-Poached Lobster in a Lobster Cream Sauce with Basil and Cherry Tomatoes which us oohing and aahing as the chef placed them before us. The lobster was cooked to perfection and the butter so wonderful it dribbled down my chin! The dish was decadently rich and tasty beyond all dreams and the pasta was also beautifully made with love.
Our main course was a 30-day Aged NY Strip Steak (FB foto) with a rich Wine reduction/Marrow/semi-demi-glace that was also superb. Grilled Asparagus were intertwined in the dish and the highlight was the Smashed Sunchokes cooked with cheese (and I forgot to get the recipe!!). A delicious Blue Rock "Baby Blue" 2013 blend from Alexander Valley in California was made up of Cabernet/Cab Franc/Merlot and more and was oh so tasty and jammy; we had big refills on this.
The service here is very attentive and everyone has a smile on for sure which is always nice. We asked for a pause and after enjoying our last red, we were wowed by the dessert that arrived (see FB foto) with Ricotta beignets on Dulce de Leche sauce, homemade vanilla and cherry ice creams and a single cylindrical Red Velvet Cake with bourbon cream cheese and warm chocolate ganache that was out of this world. I usually don't like icing type cakes or cream cheese frostings, but this was to die for. Sam adores Red Devil, so we brought home half of the yummy treat for him! Indeed everything on the plate was divine, especially the beignets and cherry ice cream loaded with yummy cherries.
I am sorry to say I can't recall the amazingly yummy dessert wine.....apologies.
We left very happy feeling that this haul to Capitol Hill was oh so worth the trek!

Tuesday, February 02, 2016

L'Homage Bistro does DC well (1-30-16)

If you are looking for fine French Bistro food in downtown DC, look no further than L'HOMAGE which opened this past fall at 450 K St, NW and is head up by Chef Joshua Perkins in a truly elegant bistro setting.
It was Saturday night with the Auto Show two blocks away at the Convention Center, so parking was a challenge, but not impossible. We arrived on time and loved the very French décor from a split-level area with bar up front and steps down to a roomy and quieter, but quite large, dining room. There are smoked mirrors, globe lights, old photos, posters and everything that makes up a French bistro, but it is the food that wins you over.
For Restaurant Week(extended now!) they have only two/three choices of starter/entrée/dessert but what excellent dishes. I chose the French Onion Soup with gooey cheese on top and a peppery broth loaded with caramelized onions.
Samuel ordered off the special menu and had (naturally) the Steak tartare which was truly French with mustard and spice., then went on to the Steak Frites which was  Blank Angus Hangar with Maitre D' Butter, Pommes Frites and Watercress Salad, which I ended up eating much of and adored the perfect Dijonnaise Vinaigrette.
Will also had the soup and then  chose the Pan Roasted Skate Wing with Lemon Brown Butter & Baby Spinach which he declared very good. My Coq au Vin was simply perfect with Oyster Mushrooms, Lardons and Pearl Onions. Perhaps the best chicken around. Later Chef explained it was Amish Farm raised. Our wine was a yummy Savigny Les Baunes Domaine Pierre Guillermot "Les Grands Picotins" which wasquite ight for Will's fish and very fruit forward; a yummy Pinot for sure.
We both had Creme Brulee for Dessert and it was top notch with a crunchy caramelized top and lots of vanilla bean in the perfect custard.
We look forward to returning on a weekday when parking is easier and enjoying the excellent and huge menu!
BRAVO a L'HOMAGE!

Friday, January 29, 2016

Stratford Univerty's Culinary Team is terrific(Alexandria, VA-1-28-16)

Each year at the March of Dimes Signature Chef's Gala, the Culinary Dept. of Strathmore University in Virginia is not only a sponsor, but they offer up a super special auction item of a 3-course dinner for 16 people prepared and served with flair and grace in their Culinary School's beautiful setting. We did this three times previously at their location in Woodbridge, but this year they moved the dinner to their beautiful new campus in Alexandria, a mere 20-30 minutes away, and much more convenient. Chefs Noree Hathaway(who runs the program) heads up a truly impressive team in the kitchen that really make you feel like you are in a 5-star restaurant with a flair of home dining.
Our first course was a truly miraculous Shitake Mushroom & Spinach Soup which had swirls of mushroom laced with salty green spinach puree and yummy fried crispy shitakes throughout the blend. We had a Chardonnay (we supplied the wines, but I forgot the brand!) which was a great pairing.
Salads can be a bore, but last night's Arugula Salad with Cara Cara Oranges & Shallot Vinaigrette was amazing from the delicate tasty (and not bitter) baby arugula which was clearly sourced from the best of vendors to the tasty oranges and superb creamy dressing. We paired a Cava Brut with this as I always feel salads should have bubbly, but alas at home we won't open a bottle of sparkling just for one course for the two of us!
The main course was another beautifully sourced and cooked Roasted Halibut with Provencal Vegetables (Carrots, Leeks, etc) that everyone gobbled up with the Bread & Butter California Pinot Noir that also got raves.
Speaking of Bread & Butter, the breads were also delicious and the butter was blended with honey for a touch of sweetness.
Our final course was no less impressive in the form of a White Wine Poached Pear with Madagascar Vanilla Bean Ice Cream with a decadent Caramel Sauce. We hauled a 1994 Fonesca Port from home which wasn't bad either.
We love doing these events as it is work-free and always so enjoyable, but also because we get to see the students work so hard and show their stuff. We asked each one to tell us where they were in their studies and where they hoped to go. It was fun to hear their enthusiastic answers and how much they truly love their studies and this terrific program. Bravo Stratford U!

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Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Take me to B TOO also for terrific Belgian fare (1-25-16)

While Snowmageddon swamped DC over the weekend, we braved the snow to head out on the first night of Restaurant Week (which runs thru Sunday) and chose B Too, as we have always enjoyed Chef Bart Vandaele's food and here he is joined by Chef Dieter Samijn producing some of the best Belgian fare in town.
We sat down and decided to order the Fried Duck Bitter Balls with lambic Beer & Cherry Chutney, one of the small bites options. Sam wanted none of these, but then after tasting, begged for more! We have loved bitterballen on our cruises and these duck version are so far superior, rich and creamy treats!!
Other awesome starters include the Foie gras Terrine with brioche, figs, speculoos & truffle, but the small bites winner is easily the amazing Crispy Pig Ears cooked to a perfect crunch and served in a leaf of Belgian endive with Pickled Shallots and an awesome Bourbon Soy Sauce. We could have easily had more.
All three of us started the 3 course $35 Restaurant Week deal with the spectacular Filet Americain Prepare or Steak Tartare with Quail Egg(boiled), cornichons, capers, parsley and crispy onions. The super tartare was slightly spicy and salty and creamy rich with little dollops of Russian-dressing-like sauce.
Will started with a Torched Hirbiliciouse which was Belvedere Vodka infused with basil & thyme, Pomegranate Juice and Rosemary served in a tankard. The metal gave me a weird taste, but Will liked it and the drink oozed herbs.
My Sunset Margarita was Olmeca Altos tequila with Cranberry Shrub, Orange & cranberry Juices and a Chili-Lime-Salt Rim. YUM YUM.
Our red wine was a superb Quindals Emporada 2007 "Mas Estrela" Blend of Grenache & Syrah that was superbly aged to perfection and big enough for our amazing main courses:
Samuel had the Josper Grilled A. Bros tenderloin with Belgian frites & Béarnaise; he of course skipped the small salad, and raved about the meat's tenderness.
Will had the Short Ribs Zoals Een Stoverij which was Flemish style braised short ribs with Leffe brown abbey ale, endive, mustard-potato croquettes on the side and mayo. It was a huge portion and super as was my
Konijn Met Pruimen or Braised Rabbit with plums, Straffe Hendrik ale, Pearl Onions, Beech Mushrooms, Fingerling Potatoes, Bacons and Lardons as well as Parsnip Chips and the sweetest ever carrots.
Dessert is included and the boys took home theirs for later, but our super server Denis said that my choice wouldn't travel, so I forced myself to eat and I adored the Fried Apple Waffle with bourbon Apple Compote, Speculoos Ice Cream and Calvados Caramel. The ice cream is a great treat that one finds only in Belgium and the Netherlands, but the waffle was also great and just the right size.
A small treasure chest of gels, Marshmallows and wafers arrived to send us on our way in the cold deep snow.
PS-parking right in front was quite easy downtown even with the giant drifts!
Of course, pics are on FB

MOMOFUKU DAISHO does delicious tastes in Toronto (1-24-16)

While I have been to the Momofuku in Philadelphia, I was not overwhelmed. On the suggestion of the Sales Manager at the magnificent Shangri-La Hotel where I was staying, I did go to Momofuku in Toronto, which indeed is located in the Shangri-La Hotel complex. The huge 3+ story complex has a noddle bar on the ground floor, a milk bar on the middle floor, and Daisho Restaurant on the top floor as well as a tasting room separate dining option on Tuesday-Saturday.
As I went on Sunday, I was limited to the noddle bar or Daisho, which I chose.
Daisho has about 10-20 tables with a rear room as well with more tables. The front room set several stories high overlooks University Avenue and the Performing Arts Complex across the street in a most impressive setting. There is an awesome high ceiling with the Momofuku logo handing high above, wooden floors and tables and low humdrum music that I could have lived without. I did love the large Japanese drum-like lights that hung above the bar at the rear.
The menu is not huge, but there were so many items I couldn't decide. My server Jordan was very helpful saying that I should do a side veggie rather than a pasta as they tend to be heavy.
I started by ordering a bottle of Ginjo Nama sake from Izumi "Nama-Nama" actually made in Toronto, already a good start of the local ingredients with the Japanese ideas. The cherry blossom aroma with hints of cantaloupe and apple were superb and it was bone dry. Oysters arrived with a dash of cucumber and Kimchi which I adored. Three were Beau Soleil from New Brunswick, 3 from Raspberry Point in Prince Edward Islands which was a new type for me and a great trat as they were both superb!
Secreto Ssam was a Kunan Farm, Ontario pork roasted with apple xo(A Hong Kong style sauce), and served with Mustard & mayo sauces with Bibb lettuce to make individual wraps that were brilliantly excellent due to the amazing quality of the meat and the exciting sauces. My veggie side was Cauliflower Bhaji which had a nice spice to it from lime, pickle, green chile vinegar and cilantro. Later I found there was also cumin, fennel, shaved onions and parsley all with the cauliflower cooked in a fried chick pea batter that was divine. A glass of Stanners Cabernet Franc from Ontario was a nice pairing as well.

For dessert, it seemed Jordan had left and Monica took over and I was happy with a small bowl of Cranberry Sorbet with crunchy rice-Masago which was a nice refresher. My dessert was Warm Date Cake with Butterscotch Maple Ice Cream (from Quebec, the maple syrup that is) as well as Five Spice Sauce and pickled and candied Walnuts. It was a superb dish loaded with spices and flavors and the ice cream was a gem to cut the spice and maple flavor oh so local. I was a very happy camper as I headed back to my room to finish

Sunday, January 24, 2016

Origin's awesome bravado brunch in Toronto(1-14-16)

Last year after Die Walkure, I had the pleasure of taking Brunnhilde to brunch, and this year we returned to Origin(www.origintoronto.com) as we loved it so much, and were joined by her father, the Wanderer or Wotan in this year's Siegfried. I remembered the brunch special drink called TBD(the brunch drink;to be determined) which was Sangria which I passed on for a margarita with a chili-salt rim hoping the heat would warm me up from the 20degree temps.
Our goddess chose the Palominosa with ru by red grapefruit juice, tequila and prosecco which I would have had were it not for the statins.
We shared a plate of yummy Deviled Eggs with Souffletine(crispy puffed rice), herbs and smoked bacon which were delish (but not as good as the ones back home at Dino's)
Both gods chose the Fried Rice(crispy)& Pork Belly & Crispy Eggs with Ginger, soy and chilies. The food had great spice and flavor as did my Short Rib Hash with Béarnaise, Jus of rich marrow(it had to be reduced for days), Poached Egg & Buttermilk Onion Rings....can't resist onion rings.
Our server Lance was super and even though it took a time for the food to come we were having an awesome time chatting..so it did not matter.
Brunnhilde plans to return there again...so keep your eyes open for a god-spotting.


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Porchetta and Co. in Toronto gets pure praise (1-23-16)

Since my opera was a 6 hour marathon at 630pm, I decided to indulge in a large filling lunch at about 3pm and chose Porchetta & Co(http://porchettaco.com/) which gets huge raves on it's one offering PORCHETTA. The original location was about a 30 minute walk from my hotel and I decided to walk through the shops and stores of Chinatown, which got my mouth watering to begin with. Once there, the choices were simple, the meat with toppings and sides, or a sandwich. The special of the day was a sandwich with porchetta, cracklings, parmesan, mustard, hot sauce and truffle butter on a large roll. I settled into one of the 3 seats at the window, as this is primarily a take-out place, and indulged. The crunchy bites of crackling confused me at first as I thought it was a small bone, but I remembered that is the secret to this success sandwich and boy was it an amazing success. The sauces all combined for awesome flavors bursting in my mouth and when I finally left I was quite satisfied and then not full later when I arrived at the opera. A brilliant idea. On my departure, I asked if there were other locations and they said one had just opened downtown, about 6 blocks from my hotel. Well, at least I got some exercise!


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Toronto's EDULIS is excellent (1-22-16)

My first night in Toronto was at a small spot in an old house with no more than 16 tables. EDULIS is a homey warm spot right in town that has a bistro feel with marble tables and wooden floors as well as a small tiled bar in the corner, which is for service only as there are no seats. They only offer two tasting menus of 5 courses for $65 and 7 courses for $85, but you need to remember that the US$ is so strong that in US$ these two amounts are $45 & $59US!!
I even splurged for TWO extra optional courses, but more on that later.
Edulis charges a whopping :-)) $2(1.40US) for unlimited Q filtered water and the sparkling was quite nice. I was also warmly welcomed by my server Sean with a nice glass of Cava Cordoniu "Anne de Cordoniu."
Nice crusty bread and cultured butter arrived (it was not singing opera!) as well as toothpicks with soft breadcrumbs and pepper-stuffed olives.
The first course was a true novelty for me: Seaweed cured shima aji (a Bluefin varietal from New Zealand also called trevali) with radish, hemp heart and sesame. The dish was a superb sushi grade fish with a pickled radish base and seaweed that I loved!! I asked Sean for wine pairings and received an Albadia Albarino de San Campio 2014 from Riax Baixas which was quite nice.
Next came a Sake Daijingo Onikoroshi paired with an amazing Surf Clam on roasted rice loaf with a Boshi (or salt cured sour cherry) broth and sake butter which was another revelation in the mouth.
The third course was my additional course of Just Shucked Scallop with Crosnes(a thick interesting tuber that was akin to a Jerusalem artichoke), Brioche and shaves of Black Perigord Truffles. It was paired with one of my favorite winemaker's Marcel Deiss 2012 Pinot d'Alsace blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc & Auxerrois.
 
Cider from Brittany came (Coat-Albert Brut) which was quite nice, but I would not drink it as a habit and it was paired with Black Trumpet Mushrooms cooked over Cedar wood with a Pine Nut Chowder. This was the only total vegetarian dish on the menu, but they do them superbly. The guy at the next table was thrilled to find out they have veggie dishes, but upset they won't do a veggie tasting!
John Dory was cooked perfectly over Japanese Charcoal with Parsley Root Puree, Onion Petals and a lemony sauce made from the fish bones that I adored. A Heus Blanc Macabeo blend from La Vinyeta 2014 in Emporda Spain made from Zarello, Garnacha Blanc, Malvaxia and Muscat was quite tasty as well.
 
Lagar de robla 2012 was a red from Castille y Leon Spain made from Mencia grapes that was also quite wonderful and paired with a very salty Salt-cured  Bonito also cooked over Japanese Charcoal with Last Summer (lima-like)beans which were preserved and yummy as well as mild chorizo which was breaded.
 
The main course was Milkfed Pork Belly with Salsify, Pistachio Sausage and Leek Puree in Cider Sauce. The belly was crispy and tasty (the table next to me said theirs was a bit fatty and not crispy, so I lucked out) and the sausage was superb. The Givry 1er Cru Burgundy from Domaine Thenard was delish as well.
This came with a very tasty side of Kale & Sundried Apple Salad that I loved but it was quite spicy dressing.
 
Cheese was next and for a mere $15Canadian you get 3(that's $10) and I chose two from Canada and one US:
Baluchon from Fromagerie Pichet in Quebec was a washed rind cow that was creamy and sweet as well as earthy
Aged Lankaaster rom Glengarry in Ontario was a hard cow that Sam would have loved as it is akin to aged Gouda.
I could not resist the Rogue River Blue from Oregon and aged in grape leaves washed in pear eau de vie!!
There was yummy quince paste and unique local Heartnuts from Ontario which are like walnuts but better.
Belem's Madeira 10 year Malmsey was a nice pairing and the end of my wine for the night.
Little did I know that two desserts would follow:
An amazing Blood Orange Sorbet on Citrus Mousse which was a hot mousse with citrus segments in it below and even a crispy edge. WOW!
Baba au rhum had extra rum poured on it tableside and Chantilly cream. I had two bites and had to stp after this truly amazing dining experience!
 

Tuesday, January 19, 2016

Blacksalt in DC; always worth going back to! (1-18-16)

We started off our year back in DC with a return visit to Blacksalt, easily the closest dining spot to our home, and it always makes me want to go back again and again.
The Chili Margarita brought back memories of Mexico with a smallish drink that packed a punch made from Milagro Silver Tequila with habanero, Lime & Salt.
The warm breads and herbed dipping oil was a big hit with the boys and also the adults.
Samuel had a huge pasta lunch as he had gone out with friends, so he only ordered the quite large starter of Skuna Bay Salmon Tartare with Sushi Rice, Ponzu, Sesame, Scallion, some Wasabi Oil & Spicy Aoili that both packed a punch. The tartare was sprinkled with crispy pieces of batter tempura for a nice crunch that really made the dish super.
Caesar Salad & Beets & Baby Citrus Salad were huge and also got raves, while Will had his standard the Woodgrilled Baby Octopus. I loved the simple Pacific Kampachi Crudo with Roasted Chestnut Aioli, Pickled Butternut Squash, Local Apple and Micro Leeks, but for $18 the portion is really extremely small. The fish was superb and the flavors were great, but maybe an extra couple of slices would have been nice.
We started with a bottle of Evesham Wood Le Puits Sec Oregon Pinot Noir 2012 from Eola-Amity Hills which was full of fruit in the mouth and then moved on to an awesome Villa Creek High Road, James Berry Vineyard 2012 in Paso Robles recommended by superb sommelier JJ, which is an amazing blend of 50% Grenache and 25% each Syrah & Mourverdre that really is a full bodied mouthful of berries and earth.
It was a great wine with the Atlantic Big Eye Tuna with Crispy Pork Belly, Kimchi Broth, Snow Peas & Mushrooms that itself was also extremely flavorful.
I had the Maryland Rockfish with came with Chanterelles, Haricots Verts, Brandy Cream, Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Pommes Puree. It was a huge dish also full of flavor that I loved with the wine as well.
One of the boys had some Mango Sorbet, but we wobbled home quite full after another meal so deserving of big bravos at Blacksalt!

Sunday, January 10, 2016

Last night in Meixco takes us to the marvelous LA TERESITA in Guanajuato's Villa Maria Cristina, a really conquering Relais et Chateaux (1-6-16)

We more than loved every minute of our stay at Villa Maria Cristina in Guanajuato, where we were treated like royalty. The small agglomeration of 100+ year old homes is charming with excellent service and superb food. We saved La Teresita (where we also had brilliant breakfasts) for our final night and it was wonderful as we were the only ones there.
We sat at our formal table with white linens in a 150-year old room with antiques to match. The Riedel Crystal arrived with Casa Madera Chardonnay, but I could not resist my favorite red winery on the wine list: Adobe de Guadalupe 2012 here surprised me with yet another varietal mix called Serafiel (52% Cab/48% Shiraz) tasting of earth, vanilla and chocolate all at the same time.
Of course on our last night we had to start with the Mezcal Margaritas with Chili-Salt rims and here I went for Frozen tamarind flavor while Will went basic.
Samuel spotted Carne Tartara on the menu so we all had that prepared tableside with red onion, cilantro, parsley, capers, olives, serrano chilis, egg yolk and of course, in Mexico, lime. It was a very different flavor from our tartare here and we all loved every bite.
We also tried the Tostadas de Marlin which was a strong tasty fish with chipotle mayo and caramelized onions. I have to rave about all the starters and Samuel wanted another for his main and he chose Sopa di Jitomate, a tomato soup with basil oil and crispy mozzarella ravioli.

Will & I split a salad called Potosina which was delish with our farewell of Marinated Nopal Cactus, Jicama, Queso Panela, Palm Hearts, Cilantro, Cabuchas (cactus flower) in a tasty balsamic vinaigrette.

For Platos Fuertes (main course) Will chose the Lechon 12 Semanas with Mole Rojo de Guanajuato. The meat was superb, but he really wanted that crunchy top we had come to love on the pork roasts. It came with yummy tomato and potato confits. My Pechuga de Pollo Marinada was in a white asparagus(creamy) sauce with paprika, herbs and garlic with Portobello mushrooms. It was a nice dish, but not super exciting.

We could not skip dessert on our last night as they had Churros Mexicanos Guanahuatenses with sugar, cinnamon and guajillo chili powder with cajeta (that amazing goat's milk caramel) as well as Chantilly cream.
We were all thrilled to have this as our last supper conclusion.   Yet Zignum Mezcal Reposado (100% agave) arrived which was a fruity alcoholic treat after the meal as well as Sacrificio Reposado which was intensely smoky. Will had a Macallan Scotch while I hoisted my glass to go back to our gorgeous suite to pack up and head home after so many miraculously delicious Mexican mouthfuls.