Sunday, March 12, 2006

lots to like but not LOVE at LUIGINO

Chef Carmine Marzano of Luigino (1100 New York Ave, NW, corner of 12th & H Streets, NW-tel 202-371-0595, www.luigino.com) has created a wonderful corner chest-to-ceiling windowed Italian bistro that can be a bit busy and noisy, but seems to fit the bill pretty well. The decor is simple, and I actually liked the Renaissance scene on the wall to the toilets with burnt orange and magenta colors. We had a nice quiet table to the rear and decent service, although our
server gave me stare when I got to pouring the wine myself regularly (not MY fault, we drink fast!). Overall, the menu is varied and reasonable, but some of the very pricey items might not be at the level of other fine dining Italian establishments in town (although the price tags are).

We started with a superb "LANGHE" Chardonnay 2004 from Marchesi Gresy that will always work with the varied appetizers. Since Thursday was "DINING OUT FOR LIFE" and evening which benefits Food & Friends, we decided to order extra food and beneift the charity even more (Kudos to Luigino for agreeing to give even more at the 50% level!). We split the large-sized INSALATA DI MARE with marinated shrimp, scallops and squid along with tasty cannellini beans. Sadly, the bland bread was not even worth the bite, and it was shamed by the quality olive oil. When dining Italian, one must have a pasta course, so we took our server's recommendation and split the PAPPARDELLE con RAGU di CONIGLIO, these fast pasta ribbons with a rich sauce of rabbit ragu always being one of
our favorites. The pasta was excellent and the sauce more tomato-ey than I prefer, but it was a superb dish overall and luckily we avoided the clicheed grated cheese.

We ordered a bottle of 1998 Barbaresco, and after a huddle were told by the server they were out, but offered a similar wine at the same price. We actually were thinking of this wine, but opted for the older Barbaresco. It was a 2001 FUNARO Pile della Ciaula Sicilian combination of Cabernet and Merlot. It had the slightest of tannins and was a big wine that worked so well with our entrees; thanks to the Sicilian manager for his proposal!).

Will's COSTOLETTA di VITELLO al TARTUFO was a 14 ounce veal chop (that's nearly a pound!) with Black Truffle Sauce, Asparagus Tips and a very good Saffron Risotto. I almost plotzed when my plate of FEGATO CIPOLLE came with over 5 slices of magnificent calve's liver. The meat was tender and perfectly sauteed with piles of onions in a Balsamic Vinegar Sauce. I managed to eat half, and hope to finish the rest at home some point soon! It would be a dreadful waste if I couldn't. Thinking in the vein of the traditional American Liver, Onions & Bacon, I only wished the dish had some sprinkling of that Italian wonder meat,
PANCETTA.

I tasted Will's TIRAMISU which was quite nice, but I was just too full to enjoy any more.