It was a very difficult decision where to dine for my free night in Chicago yesterday. Should I attempt Charlie Trotter again, return to my favorite TRU, experiment with many of the new up and coming places? I finally decided to return to EVEREST, the Relais et Chateaux gastronomic temple located on the 40th (top) floor of One Financial Plaza (at 440 S. La Salle; Tel. 312-663-8802) where Alsatian superchef Jean Joho is the Chef/Owner (a not so easy place to find as there are no signs on or in this giant skyscraper). It's been about ten years since my first and last visit to Everest, and little has changed there.
The wall of windows looking to the west offers magnificent sunset and twinkly light views of the suburbs, as well as some up-close views of the few skyscrapers in the immediate area and to the northwest. The "leopard-skin" carpet might be in need of replacement and the miniature large-crystal chandeliers (think Dame Edna's earrings) are looking a bit outdated. This aside, the crisp linens, comfortable chairs and perfection in service easily make one forget these few faults, besides, you is always staring out the windows anyway, if not at the food!
I opted for the nine course tasting menu (about $90) and its accompanying wines for about the same price. I decided to start with a glass of LORENTZ 2001 Tokai Pinot Gris ALTENBERG de BERGHEIM from Alsace. It's ever so slight sweetness and complex flavors made it perfect with the three amuses. Was it a specific type of apple (I really am not good at differentiating Granny Smith & Delicious) or a specific type of melon in the mouth; I really needed help on this. The amuses or "Les Overtures de la Soiree) arrived in the signature back to back "J's" china for Chef Joho, who apparently had left by my second or
third course. There was an EMULSION of BRANDADE of COD in a china spoon; the rich mousse-like blend was whipped to a wonderful lightness. In the middle was a miniature copper pot with COCO BEAN SOUP. At first, I couldn't understand why they would serve cocoa bean soup, but it turned out the yummy "coco" is an heirloom navy bean! Finally came a Rillette of Crispy Venison, ground meat in a patty, deep fried and served over sauteed vegetables;;YUM YUM.
My excellent server came with the first wine for the pairing and said that if I needed extra pours, to please ask; I liked that. Indeed, she and the other waiter, and the entire staff were so affable, kind and caring, that I truly felt the service was at the level of a three-star Michelin establishment. The wine was a 1999 JULIEN MEYER Riesling, Muenchberg Alsace Grand Cru that was bone dry and superb, despite its age. Served with an amazing MOSAIC of SEAFOOD & SHELLFISH with SEA BEANS and AIGRELETTE SAUCE, this amazing "pate-like" combination was a new treat in each mouthful. There was a bit of aspic gelee to bind, but it was so minimal it was truly a mosaic of seafood and vegetables. The Sea Beans were long skinny asparagus-like vegetables that had a salty seaweed flavor to them, a real novelty for me. This was a true blend of flavors that continued throughout the evening making each dish a new treat.
Next came a POTAGE of SUNCHOKE & BLACK TRUMPET MUSHROOMS with the mushrooms as a small disc of gelee in the base of the creamy (but not bisque-like) soup with small bits of crispy lardons and mushrooms throughout for extra flavor. The 2004 LES DAMES BLANCHES du SUD Coteaux de Tricastin from the Rhone was a blend of Viognier, Marsanne & Rousanne that was excellent with the soup, served only a bit too cold (but it warmed up in my hands in plenty of time before the soup came). Indeed each wine was timely served about 3-5 minutes prior to the food, so I could taste and consider it before each course and then enjoy it
WITH the food. Only the plain white wine crystal glasses were not right for the bigger red wines.
I am a Pinot Noir snob, and the 2003 COSTA de ORO ESTATE Pinot from Santa Maria Valley in California was more acidic than fruit-filled and had a slight bite. It was a mild Pinot and I really yearned for something like that smooth silky Lemelson from the previous week! The wine did pair perfectly with the FILLET of WILD STURGEON wrapped and Roasted in CURED HAM & CABBAGE. The cabbage was served on the side as well, in a gnocchi-like spiral form which made me think they were potato or pasta. I have no idea how they did this, but it was WILD! The fish was a perfect thin medallion of the sturgeon (think, swordfish with less fishy taste) and the Pinot Sauce was where the wine met with the dish in perfection of pairing.
TRADITIONAL SLOW BRAISED BEEF CHUCK EYE with WINTER VEGETABLES and Crispy Polenta was the meat entree and suffered only from a lack of seasoning. I discovered the adorable white duet ceramic salt and pepper cellars on the table with their just crushed sea salt and fresh pepper. An addition of the spices made the dish bloom, although I must say the vegetables were the best I have ever had in a combination like this: Beets, Turnips, Peas, Snow Pea Pods, Brussels Sprout Leaves, etc. The 2002 CHATEAU LAFFITTE-TESTON from Madiran was 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet and was smooth and warm and a nice red, but I couldn't help laughing at the name's attempt to fake the famous Bordeaux (we couldn't pinpoint the exact location of the winery in the south).
Another nice touch was the silver-plate water bottle holders that one often sees in European restaurants. By placing this on the table, the water-server knows you are drinking bottled water, not tap, and doesn't refill your glass with the wrong stuff. It's only fault, is that the water does eventually get to room temperature if not chilled in the ice. There was a selection of seven types of bread, the olive being a bit bland, but the mini-baguettes were crispy and tasty. Finally, every time I sat down, I had a fresh napkin (I needed it after getting Pinot Noir Sauce on it from the sturgeon!), and someone was there to hold my chair for me; what service!
The Assortment of Small Midwestern Farmer's Cheese was a revelation. Served with a big spicy 1998 EASTON ESTATE ZINFANDEL that really worked with the three bigger cheeses:
CAMEMBERT from St Joseph, Michigan was a nice milder start, but revelations began with the SOPHIA Goat from Indiana--WOW! A boring ST JOSEPH, Michigan cow ensued (I would have placed this BEFORE the huge goat I adored).
PLEASANT RIDGE Wisconsin Cow was a big aged cheese that resembled cheddar and had giant flavor (a big winner with the Zin), and finally the BLUE TERRINE of Wisconsin cow was an amazing idea. The mild blue was combined in a terrine style with walnuts and white raisins which had been soaked in Sauternes and Gewurtztraminer...OMIGOD!! Again, brilliant with the Red Zinfandel. There were several mixed greens on the plate with a plum compote and mixed fruit compote on either side.
Since I started my cholesterol drug, I am forbidden grapefruit so instead of the Composition of Grapefruit, I got the COMPOSTION of PINEAPPLE. The strong cheese and wine really DID demand a refreshing palate cleanser at this point before the dessert, and the small pineapple salad with a scoop of superb sorbet on top was just right.
Dessert was the MILK CHOCOLATE & BANANA PARFAIT which was a Cold Banana Souffle dusted with Milk Chocolate Powder and a center of soft chocolate served with Brown Butter Ice Cream, Not only was it a beautiful preparation, but a truly wonderful blend of flavors (I adore banana and milk chocolate) in the mouth. I asked for a substitution on the dessert wine from the standard LillyPilly Noble (you've heard that before lots of times) to the rare 1989 JOSMEYER SELECTION de GRIANS NOBLES Tokai Pinot Gris Grand Cru Alsace that had a big nose of burnt sugar and tasted like Creme Brulee on Ice. I learned about these magnificent Grains Nobles in Alsace and have been in love with these intense dessert wines ever since. To have a 1989 in such amazing condition is a rare treat (and I was not charged an extra cent!).
Before I left I was offered a tray of seven choices of mignardises. I chose four (two had anise): A marshmallow puff, an orange macaroon, a chocolate financier (like a small slice of light chocolate cake) and a Crusted Sugar Jelly of Passion Fruit.
After about 3-3/4 hours I rolled back down 40 floors and back to my hotel. I hope the snow which is due any minute won't keep me from getting home in several hours!
