We always forget how great the genius of Chef KAZ Okochi is until we start enjoying all the wonderful ideas he has fused together at KAZ SUSHI BISTRO (1915 I St, NW www.kazsushi.com Tel 202-530-5500). First of all, while the sushi is supreme, don't let the name fool you, just read on to see what our $75 tasting included. There is a sushi menu, a regular menu, and a choice of $60 and $75 tastings as well. Three of us also ordered many of the sake as pairings with each dish (Will opted for the Sapporo Reserve Beer).
We started with "sake-tinis" made from Hakuskika Sake. There were many choices and we had the Cosmo, the Mango and the Plum Wine, which I liked the best because it was so different.
An amazing amuse of ANKIMU (smoked MONKFISH Liver) came first, part wrapped in a paper thin radish wrap, the rest atop a mound of delicious JALAPENO JELLY. Our friend Peter called this "fish gras" as it resembled foie gras so much! We relaxed and enjoyed the serene and comfortable, but informal setting. The twig shadowboxes on the wall wonderfully lit with orange,red and yellow sunset glow effects were actually created by Chef Kaz himself! Our first sake was ONIKOROSHI (Shizuoka-Junmai Daiginjo) was very fragrant and had an intense licorice flavor (making it my least favorite) but followed with a big warm inside feel. The second sake was a MASUMI (Nagano-Junmai Ginjo) which had more of an alcohol content, but was came from the "Light & Smooth" category.
Our next course was a gorgeous FLOUNDER CARPACCIO with SEAWEED and YUZU Sauce with Radish & Scallion. The peppery spiced sesame seeds were a delightful touch to this work of art. Next came the SALMON with TOMATO CONFIT and Basil Sauce another work of beauty with its orange salmon on the bottom, the red tomato in the middle and a strip of bright green basil on top. A refreshing course as well, with such tasty tomatoes, a real treat when tomatoes are so sorely misused in our winter. We saw the EDAMAME going by, so we asked for a small bowl of the salty edibles and downed more sake: URAKASUMI (Miyaki-Junmai) was one of my favorites since it was VERY smooooth. The presentation of the next dish drew stares from all over the restaurant, as Chef Kaz delivered a huge square tray. In the center was a giant sea urchin robbed of its meat, surrounded by four smaller square-plated portions. The UNI (urchin) was embedded in the center of BABY CALAMRI in a ball and served over a TRUFFLE-SOY SAUCE with a QUAIL EGG on top and Diced Seaweed. If you thought the arrangement looked magnificent, all you needed to do was taste this sublime combination to be in heaven.
We graduated to NANBURYU Sake (Inate-Junmai) which was very rich and has a taste of pickled melons hiding somewhere it seemed. Then came the excellent NIGORI-type unfiltered "OHYAMA" (Yamagata-unfiltered Junmai) which was lighter in taste than its predecessors, despite the "unfiltering."
SAKE STEAMED ASARI CLAMS came next in small paper bowls of clam broth over small sternos (think Pupu Platter). The tiny tender clams were delish (similar to Manila clams), the broth a bit salty, although Pete gulped most of everyone's down.
A long rectangular plate with four separate items came next. The winner was the MISO-MARINATED SABLEFISH which was sublime. The GINGER FLAVORED CALAMARI CAKE was intense (so the ginger lovers were happy), the SQUID was cooked and wrapped in a SHISHO leaf which was very herbal and had a dot of Wasabi on top. The DUCK WRAPPED in BUCKWHEAT CREPE with RADISH Sprouts was also superb.
A move in sake was called for to KHINOKURA :TARU" (miyagi-aged in cedar barrel) which went well with the "main" course, a GUINEA FOWL with LIME and SANSYO PEPPERS that Will devoured despite the bones!!
Sushi is served after the meal in a proper Japanese establishment and we received a nice selection of SEARED SALMON BELLY, Raw SWEET SHRIMP, YELLOWTAIL, TORO Tuna, FLOUNDER with KONBU Seaweed, and a LOBSTER SALAD wrapped in seaweed (which would make a superb hor's d'oevre at any event). YUKI-WATARI (Junmai Nigori) premium unfiltered sake was our last. It is aged at a low temperature and has a milky appearance. Peter & Maria deemed this the top sake choice of the evening.
Dessert was a creamy rich and cleansing LYCHEE PANNA COTTA with MANGO SORBET and cup of GENMAICHA Tea (made from green tea and roasted rice). Of course, we could not leave without a small glass of PLUM WINE. Like I said, this isn't JUST SUSHI!! It's supreme!
