musings on muching at MARCEL's

Our at least once a year visit (we try to do it more, but...) to MARCEL's on Pennsylvania Ave here in DC was another success last night. The tasting dinner was superb, despite the fact that chef-owner Robert Wiedmaier was not on site. Add to this the excellent service and superb staff, and the new warm and cozier decor, and you have fine dining at its best. We all look forward to their new venture, BECK, to be located over on 11th St, NW next year. Indeed, I like the new warm red carpeting; what was Mr. Cam thinking years ago when he put in those expensive tiles? It lends to a quieter, more intimate feeling. We loved our little alcove table with a tiny pass-through-like window to the kitchen. We were told the likes of Oprah, Robert diNiro and Quincy Jones occupied this spot recently! I was less impressed having my posterior touch the same spot as Donald Rumsfeld and Condoleeza.

Anyway, our Perrier Jouet BRUT N/V was a welcome toast as we were celebrating a belated birthday. A perfect pairing with the simple AHI TUNA TARTARE Amuse with Chili Vinaigrette.

Our favorite course had to be the GIANT FIVER SCALLOP with YELLOW WAX BEAN RISOTTO (really more of beans in creamy sauce) topped with Fried Parsley and Crispy Potato. It was a bit peppery and so went quite well with the BIBLIA CHORA 2005 from Pangeon, Greece. This 50/50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Assyrtico has an oddly acidic nose, but the taste it totally grapefruit with grass, much from the Sauvignon (a great foil to spice).

A beautifully presented FILET OF DOVER SOLE in BEURRE BALNC BLACK OLIVE SAUCE with Potato Crisp and Spinach was excellent. It was prepared in a scoop of fish almost like a timbale, but not processed. Served with a remarkable CHASSEUR RUSSIAN RIVER CHARDONNAY 2001 made by the folks from Sonoma-Cutrer. I had never heard of this intense wine (14.3% alcohol) yet it lacks that intense butter taste of the typical Russian River Chardonnays; this was more like margarine ; another brilliant pairing, needless to say.

Our first meat was SQUAB BREAST & LEG CONFIT with CELERY ROOT, PAN SEARED FOIE GRAS, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Cippolini Onion in a Black TRUFFLE RED WINE SAUCE with Fried Leeks. Again, a gorgeous presentation and preparation and while a huge portion, it was all easily gobbled down. A MADIRAN CHATEAU de PERRON TANNAC 2001 Malbec was served with it, which was my preferred red of the evening. The ensuing CHATEAU TERREY-GROS-CAILLOUX Cru Bourgeous 2000 from St. Julien was a bit too tannic for my blood. Again, time will tell. It was served with MEDALLION of VENISON in CABERNET SAUCE with "HODGE-PODGE" Puree. The meat was perfect and rare in the center; just right. We did, though, as two night earlier, return to the Malbec from the earlier course.

A 2003 :"LES CAILLOUX" Chateauneuf du Pape came next and was far superior and ideal with the Cheese course of HUMBOLDT FOG, Marmalade of Red Grapes and Frisee with Chili Vinaigrette. I recall when Marcel's first opened how we hied there for the cheese. Washington is now a better place, just for that reason alone!

Dessert was CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE with RASPBERRY SAUCE and Vanilla Ice Cream and a LILLYPILLY NOBLE ROT dessert wine to go along. It was a four plus hour meal and I was one happy gourmand!