Tuesday, February 14, 2006

a James Beard Snowstorm Dinner or love the Lenox Room's BENJAMIN ZWICKER

Saturday night while in New York City, we braved the oncoming snowstorm(there was about 2 inches of the 26 that fell on the ground when we got back) and headed from my parent's into the city to attend a truly wondrous International Wine Lover's Dinner at the renowned James Beard House. Chef JASON ZWICKER of the LEXNOC ROOM Restaurant on the Upper East Side was in residence and we met and chatted with him in the kitchen on our arrival as we sipped ALBET I NOYA Cava N/V which was truly the best Cava I have ever had! It went perfectly with all four passed hor's d'oevres:

YELLOWFIN TUNA TARTAR, Wasabi on Wasabi Rice Crisps were probably my favorite. The chef showed me that the rice crackers actually are Japanese made and sold in Asian markets. That's something I'll look for!

SALMON GRAVLAX, TRANSMONTANUS CAVIAR and Breakfast Radishes were arranged in such a manner to look like miniature pizzas, while the TAMARIND GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS with Crushed Peanut & Sesame looked like little French Poodle legs, all trimmed so beautifully. I really wanted more of these, but had to make due with seconds on the BURGUNDY BRAISED OXTAIL with Mushrooms and Pearl Onions.

We sat down with a wonderful group of six others (including one woman from Washington; another coincidence). The only problem we had with our dinner was the speed with which it was served. We really wanted to linger and enjoy, but due to the speed of the blizzard, we took just over three hours instead of the typical four for the entire evening.

Our fist wine was a DOMAINE LA BEGUDE LIMOUX CHARDONNAY 2004, an organically made wine fairly light and yet quite tasty. It was served with a superb ROASTED BEET & ENDIVE SALAD with FOURME d'AMBERT Cheese and ARMAGNAC VINAIGRETTE.

The second wine was less viable with the food. The FALSET MARCA ETIM BLANCO 2004 made from White Garnacha (Grenache) and a bit acidic for me did not work with the magnificent FOIE GRAS & CHICKEN LIVER PARFAIT, CRANBERRY MOSTARDA and Toasted Country Bread. This really was a very rich torchon of foie gras in the creamy pate style with the cranberry almost like a chutney mixture for flavor. SUPERB!

SEARED WILD STRIPED BASS CONFIT, Fennel, Preserved Meyer Lemons and Lobster Reduction was a light, yet complex fish dish of just the right intensity at this point. I was very glad we switched to red wines (it was getting much colder and snowier outside our window) and I loved the MONTARIBALDI DOLCETTO NICOLINI 2003 from a wonderful small estate that makes a great wine.

The ROASTED RACK of BERKSHIRE PORK with BRAISED RED CABBAGE, CHESTNUTS and MUSTARD JUS was heavenly (I had not had chestnuts in soooo long), marred only by the MAS de la DAME COTEAUX d'AIX en PROVENCE Cuvee GOURMANDE 2003. The wine was way to tannic and young for me. The Grenache and Carignane Rhone blend is nice, but it either was way too young, or will possible never mature well. Being from the 2003 vintage, one never knows. Instead, we returned to more of the Dolcetto which was graciously poured and we graciously drank more, a perfect wine for the pork.

BRAEBURN APPLE & WALNUT STRUDEL with CARAMEL ICE CREAM and APPLE CRISP was our yummy dessert, and the CHATEAU RICHARD SAUSSIGNAC 1998 was perfection with it. The wine is a Sauternes-style noble rot made from the Muscadelle grape with lots of sugar and acidity. It would have been perfect with the Foie Gras parfait as well!

A wonderful evening with many new friends, new foods and new wines!