Wednesday, February 08, 2006

a cozy return to 15RIA

Over a year ago, 15ria (at the Doubletree at 1515 Rhode Island Ave, NW) lost its chef Jamie Leeds so she could open Hank's Oyster Bar. We haven't been to 15ria in years, and we were reminded last night what a warm and cozy spot it is, especially at this time of the year! The fireplace next to us was warm as could be, the sofas with pillows and comfy high back chairs make for an even cozier experience; you don't even feel like there is another table nearby! While the service is not stellar, it is competent and more than friendly. We engaged both our server from Panama and our busboy from Nepal in vivid conversations
about their homelands.

The menu retains much of the homestyle cooking that Chef Leeds began, but new chef TRIY WALKER has tweaked here and there with his own creations. There is still a nightly special that comes with a choice of two side dishes. Last night it was BRAISED SHORT RIBS, which we were told had run out just after we ordered them! Then miraculously, they were available after we requested a substitute.

As we were celebrating a friend's birthday, we ordered a bottle of IRON HORSE BRUT ROSE 1999 to toast the day. Oddly, the wine was poured and no taste was offered. It was, however, quite excellent and toasty; perfect for a celebration. Fresh breads were brought along with butter and homemade hummus and several pickled vegetables. We loved these so much, our server brought a huge bowl of the cucumbers, zucchini, carrots and tomatoes that had been deliciously quick pickled overnight.

I started with the JUMBO LUMP CRABCAKE (available as an appetizer or entree) with TANGY CABBAGE SLAW. While the crabcake was superb and full of lumpy fleshy shellfish, it needed a good dose of pepper for some excitement; the slaw was yummy too, but NOT tangy. I often feel this is a problem in some hotel restaurants, where chefs have to tone done their seasonings to keep the hotel guests happy. The POPCORN SHRIMP and CALAMARI with Remoulade was a treat, and here the sauce packed a yummy bite, making it perfect for the fried tidbits. There is a choice of either a duo sampling or single serving of soups, and our birthday girl chose the superb CRANBERRY BEAN & BACON SOUP which was excellent for the cold weather and full of bursting flavors.

We moved onto red wine and chose a ROSENBLUM ZINFANDELVINTNER's CUVEE XXVIII which packs a 14.6% alcohol content but has a very warm fruity blend with a hint of that Zinfandel spiciness. We were surprised not to find a vintage on the bottle and later discovered that it is a blend of 2002, 2003 and 2004 grapes for this particular XXVIII cuvee; a good $30-something buy for dining out!

Will chose the tasty ONION RINGS and MUSHROOM RISOTTO sides with his BRAISED SHORT RIBS that were a bit thin on the meatiness, but tasty nonetheless. The BUTTERNUT SQUASH RISOTTO with Candied Pecans, Hazen Blue Cheese and Cremini Mushrooms was yummy as well, and the blue cheese flavor was not intense at all. The hit of the evening was easily my VENISON ROSSINI MEDALLIONS (in demi-glace) with Caramelized Parsnips and Creamed Winter Vegetables. When Chef Walker came out, we asked why he named the dish "Rossini," knowing full well that Tournedos "Rossini" named for the Italian composer is a filet with foie gras and truffles (Rossini's favorite dish when he lived in Paris!). He said it was his little version and while the foie gras and truffles were absent, the
demi-glace was the traditional one used here as well. The sauce was rich and superb, the parsnips amazing and the vegetables simply excellent. I was even happier, when the chef returned with a piece of foie gras to adorn my plate! This combined with one of the most tender venisons ever made it just PERFECT!

We tried a variety of desserts including the yummy FRIED BREAD PUSSING with Vanilla Ice Cream that was so huge we requested a doggie bag for half of it! My GRANDMOTHER's SWEET POTATO TART with Lemon Creme Anglaise was also quite nice, though I could not muster the strength to finish, being so full. A fun choice is the DESSERT FLIGHT for $8.00 which includes 3 small selections: APPLE COBBLER, the MINT CREME BRULEE (I really don't like mint) and the rich tasty MOLTEN CHOCOLATE CAKE. Try a glass of DELOACH Late Harvest GEWURTZTRAMINER or the LILLYPILLY NOBLE BLEND if you want a boost of sweetness with or after your
dessert, they are both superb and pair with anything (save maybe the mint).

It was truly a warm and cozy evening for us all; 15RIA really knows how to make a harsh winter melt away.