Every time we return to Middlesbrough to visit Will's family, we stay at
the Judges Country House at Kirklevington in Yarm, a sweet country town just
minutes from the big city. We love their awesome breakfasts (local smoked salmon
& scrambled eggs and full English or whatever) and superb dinner in the
elegant country house dining rooms or on the glass-enclosed porch overlooking
the beautiful gardens.
We took our friends, Sue & Steve, here for our final dinner before
heading to Ireland and it was all superb. We started with drinks in the bar and
canapés were sent out as we perused the menus: Fried Cheese Balls, Saffron
Crackers with Spiced Cod Puree and Ginger Ale & Rocket (the British term for
Arugula) Shooters which were fun and tasted like a fizzy health drink with a
slight bitter herb flavor on the tongue at the end.
Since the sun doesn't set until very late, the gardens were bright and we
all took a little walk outside and then sat down to a bottle of Baron d'Arignac
Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs which was brut, but neither totally dry, but then
not sweet or demi-sec either; decent, but I would not order it (it was a
generous gift from the hotel management). We moved on to a superb Beaune 2011
1er Cru aux Coucherais from Marchand de Gramont which was a superb light red
that went perfectly with our pretty heavy fish dishes and the pork.
Starters were an aromatic Summer Truffle Salad of fine beans, baby
artichokes and Cabernet Sauvignon Vinaigrette and I adored the Norfolk Quail
with grilled charred Sweet Corn and a Girolles Puree and quail jus, perhaps one
of the best quails ever with little baby onions and yummy pork
cracklings.
Samuel gobbled up his huge main of Courgette (Zucchini) Risotto with
parmesan, tomato (sundried as well) and magnificent chanterelles (he actually
ate most of these) sprinkled generously on top.
Most of us had the magnificent Monkfish with Smoked Sausage, broccoli,
creamed Spinach (which came in a small fried dough ball with goat cheese!!) and
several vegetable purees. One Pork Ribeye with Savoy cabbage, turnip and
Passionfruit got raves.
Samuel left us to head to the room while the four of us shared
desserts:
"Michel Cluizel" Chocolate Delice with pralines, espresso ice cream and
hazelnuts reminded me very much of our own Michel Richard's chocolate bar
dessert.
Macerated Strawberries said it came with caramelized cream, which we
discovered was the local term for crème brulee as well as strawberry sorbet,
honeycomb and tarragon--most refreshing.
White Peach with elderflower and cream was an even better fruit dessert
full of flavor, cold and tasty.
The cheese plate was superb dotted with jellies, chutneys (one was a
cauliflower/mustard seed!), seeded lavosh, housemade walnut bread, celery and so
many condiments, but the cheese starred here with four kinds: Collingwood Mounts
Cheddar, Monk's Folly from Fountain's Gold, Barkham's Blue from Two Hoops and an
amazing runny cheese called Mayhill Green covered with chopped nettles. They
were all divine, but I doubt I will ever find these truly local treats again
unless we return to Yarm for a meal, which I know we will do for
sure.
