The next night we drove about 5 minutes away to the other Relais et
Chateaux hotel in the area (it is rare there are two so close!) and we were
blown away by the entire experience from the time we sat down at the bar and
discovered that there is amazing locally made Dingle Vodka (& gin) that
makes a dry and neat martini. While the bar snacks here (overlooking Sheen
Falls, a tiny stream at this point of the season) weren't as exciting as the
night before (here we had olives and spicy nuts, etc). the dining experience was
indeed a tour de force.
The huge dining room or Falls Restaurant is light and airy (yellow is the
predominant color in the building as well as in the exterior paint) and Chef
Philip Brazil works hard to impress each diner with each bite.
An amuse of Wild Mushroom Veloute came first and was spectacular, and
pronounced correctly :-).
We tried the Castletownbere (again from nearby Beara) Oysters with a simple
lemon shallot vinegar and pea shoots. Will declared the shoots bothersome, but
the oysters were creamy and slightly briny and truly delicious.
These were enjoyed with a superb Te Pa Sauvignon Blanc 2014 from New
Zealand that matched the bivalves in creaminess but with a huge grapefruit
flavor.
We also tasted the Domaine de Chiroulet Reserve SFL (Sheen Falls Lodge,
made for them) 2013 from Gascogne which is 50% Gros Manseng, and 25% each
Sauvignon Blanc and Ugni Blanc, which will preferred. It was nice to have so
many options by the glass and an extensive wine list as well, all overseen by
the superb French maître d' Quentin. We also loved the grand piano in the middle
of the room being played softly and politely and were excited when we heard
familiar tunes from the Irish musical "Once" we had just seen in DC!
Brown soda, Granary and Onion rolls were the order or the day with more
amazing butter....the curse of this trip was carbs, butter and cheese, but we
loved it all. The water was all Sheen Falls Lodge locally filtered.
Will & I both started with the Roast Beet Carpaccio, Raspberry
Vinaigrette, Tarragon Mascarpone, Salted Sunflower Seed Crackers and Pea Shoots
while Samuel had the Rigatoni with Lemon Olive Oil, Plum Tomato Sauce,
Mint-Basil Pesto & Parmesan Shavings, promising no more pasta or chips for
the next 3 days!
Quentin and I discussed a 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape, Chateau de la Gardine
and he said he would open it for us. He did and tasted it once, then on the
second try, he declared it undrinkable bringing us an amazing 2012 Domainee
Chante Cigale Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes that was drinking so smoothly
is was dreamy.
The main courses were truly delicious with a Ring of Kerry Lamb Duo of
Grilled Cannon (upper rump) and Confit of Shoulder served with Garlic Gnocchi,
as well as Connemara Air Dried Lamb, Sour Mint Jelly, Jameson Whiskey Carrot
Barrels and Thyme Essence, what a salute to Ireland. The Char Grilled Fillet of
Tipperary Hereford Irish Beef came in either 10 ounce or 12 ounce portions and I
went for the former, it was way big enough. The Irish Hereford and Angus cattle
are all grass-fed which is why the meat is so amazing (today I found grass-fed
lamb/beef burgers at the farmer's market and can't wait to try them). The dish
came with a 30 hour Braised Beef Cheek & Shallot Croquette that was
melt-in-your-mouth to-die-for, Carrot Puree, Potato Mousseline, monstrous King
Oyster Mushrooms and a Chimichuri Dressing with red Wine Jus. This was probably
our favorite beef the entire trip.
Dessert was irresistible and we tried the Summer Raspberry Tartlet with
Crème Patisserie & Lemon Curd Ice Cream which was delish, but my Chocolate
& Peanut Butter Mousse with Summer Berries, Chocolate Textures (such as
brittle) & Chocolate Ice Cream was again one of the best finales of the
trip.
Bravo to the entire team at SFL!
