On my last night in Ft. Worth I had so many choices, but last year had
missed the newly opened WATERS, Bonnell's Coastal Cuisine, where local chef John
Bonnell had opened his new seafood restaurant just west of downtown (www.waterstexas.com) right before my last visit a
year ago. I had loved his main restaurant, Bonnell's, where meat reigns and on a
95+ degree day, seafood seemed to beckon.
The West 7th Street District has blossomed over the last several years and
even though it can get crowded there is complimentary valet parking to ease the
pain.
I eased through the huge doors of the tall-ceilinged restaurant to a large
reception area. To the right was along bar and lounge area much like a hotel
lobby. To the right was the dining room with crisp white linens, black leather
chairs, gray carpet to cut the noise and a huge bar and raw bar as well, with
seating at both. Above the raw bar was a large black mirror so those seated
nearby can look and see what's going on behind the counter. Nearby sands a tall
central square column which is filled with oyster shells to the ceiling and
along the front wall of floor to ceiling windows are gray suede booths and
banquets. Above the tables is a mobile sculpture that stretches across the room
with steel cut "fish" which seem to be in a huge school swimming across the
room. There are also fish lines with lures and weights to keep the work from
moving too much. Overall this gives a light airy feel and while the dining room
is classy, it never feels too formal. On Sunday it was dead with no more than 6
or 7 tables occupied in the large room.
My server Scott recommended the Cooper Mountain Vineyard 2012 Cooper Hill
Pinot Gris from Oregon's Willamette Valley (over the Rainstorm Pinot Gris, also
from Oregon, which he declared to be "watered down"). It was a superb wine with
huge white peach overtones and according to Scott lemon blossom aroma. I ordered
2 each of 3 Massachusetts oysters (Wianno from Barnstable Harbor, Onset from
Buzzard's Bay and Summerside from Cape Cod). The Wianno were buttery and less
exciting than the others and I adored the Summerside which were creamy and
plump!
These came with not only cocktail sauce and mignonette, but a serrano spicy
vinegar mignonette that I mixed with some cocktail sauce afterwards and spread
on the French bread which is served in a baguette bag with butter speckled with
Black Hawaiian sea salt
I listened to Scott and ordered a small CAESAR Salad which comes with a
superb Smoked Oyster Caesar dressing and topped with one tasty smoked oyster.
Sadly, this was the only good thing about this salad as the croutons were soggy
and the romaine was utterly limp. I think this plate had been in the fridge at
least a day and while Kevin apologized, I was still charged for this attempt at
a salad.
Next came Scott's better choice, SPICY YELLOWFIN TACOS which are three
crunchy tacos propped up vertically on the plate by gooey rice underneath and
topped with Mango Pico de Gallo, Jicama Slaw, Wasabi Creme Fraiche and a
wonderfully peppery Micro Cilantro. They were a bit messy, but boy were they
bursting with flavor, Texas style...and the three tacos were indeed very
filling.
I waited a while before my main course and Scott was very conscious of not
serving too fast and asking when I was ready. I wished there was a tasting menu,
but the main course offered the next best thing:
The "I Can' Decide" SEAFOOD TRIO which is comprised of 2 ounces each of the
three fish main courses that seem to be always on the menu:
Mesquite Grilled Arctic CHAR was superb over piles of green and yellow
zucchini ribbons, Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes and a Caper Beurre Blanc that was
delish.
Tortilla Crusted Idaho Rainbow TROUT came with a "Southwest Style" Tomato
Sauce, Avocado, Slaw, Pickled and Cooked Baby Carrots, Celery, White &
Purple Fingerling Potatoes, Cipollini Onions and an occasional jalapeno slice.
Creole Seared Black DRUM FISH was a yummy Red Fish almost like blackened
fish here with Andouille Sausage & Stewed Tomato Sauce with Okra and
Haricots Verts.
All three were superb, but I think the sauce and seasoning on the Drum Fish
made it the best of the three.
I really was full and did not want dessert, but three folks at the next
table came over to ask what I had to eat and they ended up sitting down and we
talked for ages. One woman and her college freshman son were clearly your not
standard Texas democrats. He had been accepted at many schools including
Georgetown, which was his first choice, but they could not afford the sky high
tuition so he is at TCU (Texas Christian), and he is applying again this year
for financial aid.
Anyway, Scott convinced me to order the CHOCOLATE GANACHE TART with
Booze-Infuse BERRIES; it was the berries that attracted me as I am not a
chocoholic.
The tart was superb, but I only ate 1/3 wishing I could bring the rest back
home for Samuel who would have adored the intense dark chocolate, but alas he
is away for 3 days on a school camping trip. The Grand Marnier/Rum berries were
a big hit for sure.
My almost annual trip to Ft. Worth is over, but I hope to get back next
year for more fab food.
