After my two previous visits to The Ledbury (www.theledbury.com) near
Notting Hill Gate and Portobello Road back in 2009 (when it had only
one Michelin star) and again last summer (just after it earned it's
second star), I had to return and this time was so happy that Will
would be in London with me to experience what I feel is the best food
in the UK, and indeed some of the best cooking in the world. We
thought about hiring a sitter for Samuel in the hotel, but the rates
that hotels charge is highway robbery, especially if it runs after
11pm, so we decided to bring Samuel with us as it would be cheaper. I
contacted the restaurant in advance and chef BRETT GRAHAM, whop said
he would be thrilled to "adjust" and create a children's tasting menu
for Samuel.
While the adult tasting menu is now priced at 95 pounds (just over
$150 at today's exchange) and is a steal at a two-star establishment,
Samuel was charged about 49 pounds, which was indeed, less than the
babysitter! We opted for the included wines bringing the total to
145pounds. A 12.5% service charge/gratuity is added but is optional,
and the staff here deserves much more anyway. So the adult bill per
person with wines and fees ends up at about $260 each (no including
the cheese course). I doubt anywhere else in the UK or Europe you
could eat (including wines) over 8 courses for this price. I have
always admired the staff, chef and indeed everyone at The Ledbury for
making each diner feel comfortable; there is no snootiness at all like
some other haute cuisine spots.
We started with Bereche et Fils Champagne which Ian, the sommelier
poured generously into the Riedel stemware. He took over from the last
sommelier (the adorable Johann) just after my visit last year. It
seems there is a major turnover in much of the staff here each year,
but Stephen the manager is still in charge and handles every need with
great panache.
Samuel was treated to a totally new drink when we asked for the
sommelier's version of a Shirley Temple (hew new favorite drink on the
cruise). A blue drink came made from some fizzy soda like Sprite mixed
with Elderflower juice; he was in heaven. The Amuse was a FOIE GRAS
Parfait topped with Gooseberry Puree in a small crunchy cone-like
holder. While we loved the "melt-in-your-mouth" feel and the crunch,
Samuel did take a small bite and left the rest. We began to worry that
this experiment was going to go sour.
Amuse number 2 (Samuel refused this one totally, but in a very adult
manner) was a medium-cooked QUAIL EGG topped with KATAFI (shredded
Turkish) pastry with Pea Puree, Bacon Bits and Cornflowers. I saw new
elements creeping into the chef's repertoire and was very excited
about what would come as this dish was a huge hit; even Will had
already begun to marvel.
The Ledbury is not a big place; I counted the tables and they don't
number more than 20. Most tables have two people, although there were
singles (a very nice man next to us from Florida), quads and one or
two larger groups. It is not noisy and the tables are comfortably
spaced. The decor is the same and you can tell after 3 times that the
goal here is to DINE and not be wowed by ostentatious chandeliers or
such.
The first bread arrived in a loaf and was a spelt-sourdough which was
simple tasty and great for mopping things up later. In the past there
were many breads with lots of flavors and I worried that they had
dropped these, but within seconds two of the traditional's came - the
Bacon & Onion Rolls that look like Cinnamon Rolls, but are much
better, and small tower-like Crystallized Malt Muffins which Sam kept
asking for more of. I was suprised he did not like the Bacon & Onion
as he adores bacon so much.
The first course of the menu was a SALAD of HERITAGE (Heirloom)
TOMATOES with Dried Olives and Herbs for all three of us. One small
cherry tomato had its skin peeled back and somehow crunchified and
Chef's signature jelly pearls were in evidence as well. Samuel thought
it was salmon caviar, which he discovered in Norway on the cruise, but
was a bit upset it was not very salty. We all gobbled up the
magnificent tomatoes which were decorated with wildflowers as well.
All our plates had a FOIE GRAS pastry (akin to a Pepperidge Farm
pirouette cookie) and Samuel ate his without a blink. Ours was stuffed
with Goat Cheese making for a creamy divine and crunchy mix. The wine
was a 2009 KERNER from Manni Nossing in Alto Adige, Italy. Ian talked
about the Kerner and was surprised we had it in Belgium blended with
Chardonnay. It was a perfect pairing as he complained it is so hard to
pair wines with salads with vinaigrette; indeed each wine was the
ideal companion to the food.
FLAME GRILLED MACKEREL with Avocado, Celtic Mustard & Shiso was very
similar to last year's menu but no less enjoyable. It was decorated
with corn shoots, corn flowers and crispy onions and accompanied by
Pickled Cucumber disc as well as a small cylindric parcel of thin-
sheer cucumber wrapped around a tartare of mackerel. I saved this for
last and savored it well as it was the new part of the dish for me.
The wine was a 2009 RIESLING Spatlese Trocken QmP from OREA called
"AR." I am often not a German Riesling fan, but this Saar Valley wine
was afull of fruit and totally dry; a delight with the intense
mackerel.
The next course was for all of us and Samuel savored the CRISP GUINEA
FOWL but did not care for the "Risotto" of New Potatoes, Morels and
Summer Truffle. Despite his discovery of mushrooms the previous week,
he would not taste the morel either, so I quickly grabbed it off his
plate before he could change his mind. Of course we loved the entire
dish and the Domaine Olivier Pithon 2009 Vin de Pays des Cotes
Catalanes, Cuvee Lais (it is the name of the winemaker's Jersey plough
cow). Samuel was rewarded for devouring his second big course with
another specialty drink-this time a lemon-lime fizz (think Pimm's fizz
without the alcohol).
All the drinking (oh, I forgot the fabulous Speyside Glenlivet
Sparkling water) makes needs for trips downstairs to the loo, which is
simple, but elegant (AND always clean). Catherine should note that our
napkins were folded beautifully immediately after we left the table
(and yes, they were laid in our laps on arrival!).
Number 4 was a poached WILD SALMON with Watercress Puree, Cauliflower
with Romanescu sauce and Potted Shrimp butter. The shrimp were the
gray ones we had so many of in Belgium and had come to love their
sweetness. the dish itself offered up a just past rare piece of fish
that again melted in your mouth. It was fun to use the mild puree or
the slightly spicy sauce alternately. 2008 A.A. Badenhorst Family
Wines from South Africa was a blend of Chenin Blanc/Grenache Blanc/
Rousanne/Viognier/Verdelho and Chardonnay that would win ANYONE over
(I already have an inquiry in to see if it's available in the USA).
Samuel had a simple bowtie pasta course with broccoli (we had told the
chef he eats these) and smothered it with freshly grated parmesan; it
was gone in minutes.
Next came the PORK JOWL roasted with Spices, a carrot puree and
chicory reduction. The hit here was the crunchy skin atop the lean
meat paired sensationally with a 2006 NEBBIOLO d'ALBA "Valmaggiore"
from Luciano Sandrone in Piemonte, Italy (I am also trying to get this
one in the USA), a true 3star wine in the line up.
We asked for a nice rest (the entire meal took well over 4 hours) and
Samuel did so as well reading his new book from the Science Museum
called WOW EARTH. We had decided not to allow the DS, phones or
electronics at the table, and this new book was just the right thing
to keep his mind going and get him involved in the conversation and
showing us things.
The second meat course for us was LOIN & SHOULDER of LAMB with an
AUBERGINE Glazed with Black Sugar and Garlic & Miso. A spinach-spice
puree was on the side of the Crispy shoulder piece as well, as we
marveled at the amazing eggplant portion; I was in love with eggplant
and now must have it this way all the time! Our wine was a 2008 Vin de
Pays du Var "Les Aureliens" from Domaine de Triennes in Provence. The
cabernet/syrah blend was again an amazing touch to the tastes of the
plate which were so multi-leveled.
Samuel enjoyed a plate of BEEF SHORT RIBS with Crispy Potatoes and
shoots. We were so proud of him trying so many things, even if he
didn't finish them.
The cheese trolley arrived and we both knew this was going to be
special. We each chose five accompanied by biscuits, flatbread and
grapes:
Will had the MONTGOMERY's 12 month CHEDDAR that was a bit dry, a
Corsican BRIN d'AMOUR, Poitiers CHAHICHOU (sp?) a hard cheese that
just needed something, a magnificent BANON Provence goat wrapped in
Chestnut leaves and the PERSIL de MARE Goat blue that was also a star.
My plate had a Valencay goat FOUILLIEU(sp?) de CHEVRE, L'AMI de
CHAMBERTIN, a gorgeous English WIGMORE (akin to camembert) and
STINKING BISHOP from Gloucester that everyone at the table could smell
and I adored as I chased it across the plate. Stephen (like the chef
is from Australia-Melbourne) was a great help in picking the cheeses
as there are so many. Samuel enjoyed a small plate of 5 year old
GOUDA, as he adores the intense hard cheese and those little crunchies
inside. He was a big fan of the Oude Brugge, a similar cheese made in
Bruges. Stephen asked us if we wished for port or wine or what and I
opted for a BLANDY's Malmsey 15 year old Madeira while will had
another glass of the AA Badenhorst white wine which we so adored.
Samuel was now up to his third cocktail concoction and was in awe of
his Virgin Vanilla Mojito.
The pre-dessert was EWE's MILK YOGURT with Strawberry Sorbet and
Strawberries and then the adults moved on to the Warm MANGO TART with
Elderflower Wine Ice Cream accompanied by a glass of 2005 CHATEAU
LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY 1er Cru Classe, SAUTERNES which was nice but a bit
high in acidity due to its youth. I have some of the 2003 vintage in
our cellar and plan not to touch it until it is at least 10-15 years
old!
Samuel has taken to the chocolate brownie desserts lately and he was
presented with a Fudgey CHOCOLATE CAKE with BANANA Ice Cream. As kids
are wont to, Samuel goes in and out of food phases. He stopped eating
bananas about two years ago, but said the ice cream was different. I
won't argue.
We added all of Sam's courses and they came to 7...ours something like
11. Stephen packed up our mignardises (fruit jellies, chocolates and
cookies) which we enjoyed the next day as a reminder of what will go
down in history as one of our greatest meals as a family.
