Sunday, August 30, 2009

Zachary's at the PEZULA Resort in Knysna, South Africa gets 3***'s

Our final night on the Garden Route kept us just across the estuary from Phantom Ranch at the magnificent PEZULA Resort & Spa high atop the Knysna Head (the land barriers that almost block the Indian Ocean from flooding the estuary) with views of the lagoon, the town and the ocean as well. IT is a small, but very luxurious resort and is the home to ZACHARY's named for the owner's late dog that traveled the world and visited many countries and continents and apparently (even as a dog) was known well around the world's restaurants!)

Well ZACHARY would be proud as the setting is cushy and elegant with about 12 tables, some overlooking the twinkly lights of Knysna below, large bronze leaf-like mobile sculptures and a modern outdoor fountain/steel sculpture beautifully lit that was mesmerizing as the water circulated. I sat at the end of the room, all alone, and was the only customer all night. The four others in our group had decided to do room service due to exhaustion, but I, in the service of you, my readers, felt a proper dining experience was in order. This was one of the best meals I have had here so far, and ranks high on the all-time list. Each table has an orange protea with orchid sprays on the serving tables, the 5 star bath alone boasts native woods of purple with granite, marble and magnificent native made vases (two looked like zebras). The linens are crisp white, the crystal is Schott and the service is impeccable.

I chose the "Chef's Experience Menu" which listed three courses plus amuses and petit fours for an amazing 275 rand ($35 en with the dollar dropping daily). The wines were extra, but Norbert, the manager, made sure I was well taken care of by Fiky, the Muslim sommelier, who does not drink but knew each wine intimately by smell. Since nobody else was there, Norbert spoke with me at length and I discovered (even thought Sunday was his day off) that the chef Geoffry Murray was from NYC and indeed ran the well-known BOOM there years ago. Fiky laid out an array of glasses as he had a different one for each varietal, something you don't see often these days--even one for rose! I started with two wines to choose from and since the Chenin Blnac from DeMorgenzon 2007 in Stellenbosch had a slight bitof residual sugar, I chose the CAPE POINT Sauvignon Blanc 2--7 form just south of Cape Town (Cape Point region) which was super citrusy in intensity with hints of green apple. The Amuse was a SALMON TROUT, Cream Cheese & Salmon Caviar on Sourdough item that lacked ingenuity, but was quite tasty. Salmon Trout is a local fresh water fish from the Franschhoek area in Wine Country that is less salty and less fishy than what we call sea-based smoked salmon as it is a trout relative, but quite different, yet very tasty when it is high quality, and this was the best.

The water (though charged) is filtered and bottled in house and the sparkling has the softest effervescence ever. The breads were divine with a seeded health bread and a yummy biscuit as well as French bread, which I did not taste.

My first course was to be a choice or raw or baked oysters and I asked for both, which was no problem for a small charge. The 3 raw MOSSEL BAY WILD OYSTERS came from about 30 miles down the coast and at $3.00 each were okay, but won no raves. The oysters from here are neither salty nor briny, though they are mid-size in range and a bit fleshy. I much preferred the 3 that came poached in sparkling wine with Buttermilk Potato Cream, Leeks and Salmon Caviar as they burst with flavor and melted in my mouth. The Sauvignon Blanc was nice, but Fiky insisted I try a SOLMS "Wijn de Caab" Lekkerwijn 2006 Rose which was a blend of Viognier/Mourvedre/Grenache from Stellenbosch and was a dream with the poached mussels.

My main course was GRILLED ELAND FILLET which is the largest of the antelope family and we actually saw them on our game drive today (we are now at the Shamwari Private Game Reserve). The meat was flavorful, not to gamey and totally tender. It was crusted with GRANOLA and served with diced dried red fuits a yummy CELERIAC PUREE with a puddle of Pinot Noir Sauce in the middle and surrounded by a thicker set of PINOT NOIR and BLACK CHERRY sauces. Rainbow chard was underneath the meat and was much softer and less forward than Swiss Chard. FIky wanted me to try two wines again so I tasted the DIEMERSFONTEIN 2003 "Heaven's Eye" made from Cabernet Sauvignon/Cab Franc/ Shiraz & Petit Verdot from the Wellington region which was so earthy I said it needed a much bigger game meat. The GALPIN PEAK 2008 PINOT NOIR from Walker Bay, where we had just come from earlier in the week, was the most divine Pinot from South Adfrica with huge fruit and great intensity and flavour.

The pre-dessert was a BACARDI Rum Jelly with Mint Pesto and Lime Sorbet which may not sound too attractive, but was indeed a refreshing and light palate cleanser.

Dessert was a CARAMELIZED BANANA and ALMOND FINANCIER with a slash of Prune Puree, Sesame Brittle (more of a tuile), Whiskey and Maple Jelly Tots (think of giant DOTS of jelly that look like sliding jiggly boobs) and GIANDUJA Ice Cream which was one of the best I have ever had. Fiky arrived again not being sure of my preferences and proffered the two choices of wine: RUDERA 2006 Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest from Stellenbosch was simply perfect, but the HANNEPORT Soet (meaning sweet) Detlefs 2006 from Breedekloof was just was too sweet to even consider with food or even alone; I think it needs a huge hunk of foie gras and noting else. The Petit Fours were three percentages of chocolate and I was not to fond of this choc-intense layout, but a glass of AMARULA Liqueur, the South African national sweet drink was divine as I waddled back to my suite and weighed myself to see I had
gained back all the weight lost on my diet last month. OOPS!