We headed to HANK's OYSTER Bar at 17th & P Streets, NW and took a nice table outside so Sam could enjoy the passing dogs (and people) as we brunched and munched the GOLDFISH that come to every table as you sit down. His FISH & CHIPS were decent, but not a touch on the ones we had just had in the UK...although the very puffy crunchy batter was a bit different from the usual. The accompanying remoulade was a bit spicy and nice, but Samuel would have none of it, insisting on ketchup!
Rick enjoyed his CRAB CAKE & EGGS BENEDICT which was cooked to perfection (so many poached eggs are wrecked these days!). My FRIED OYSTER PO' BOY was very good with a lot of nice crunchy on the outside fried oysters, but the accompanying COLE SLAW was wimpy and needed crunch and punch; perhaps it was made the day before because it sure tasted like it did. A glass of superb no oak CHARDONNAY from FRAGOU 2006 in Greece was a great pairing.
As always, the chunks of semi-sweet chocolate come after the meal and can make up a whole dessert, which we did.
My big complaint, however, is that Chef Jamie Leeds, who is the owner and executive chef and has a child Samuel's age does not have a children's menu. MANY of the items on the menu are great for kids, but the portions are too large. At over $10-13 for the FISH & CHIPS at brunch, which Samuel only ate about 1/3-1/2 of, I would LOVE to see some $5-7 options with 1/2 portions. Perhaps this is a secretive attempt to keep children away, which would be an awful shame!
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Thursday, September 18, 2008
the best of Belgium ET VOILA (is here!) in our 'hood
A couple of months ago a third or fourth incarnation at the sadly cursed 5120 MacArthur Blvd restaurant site in the Palisades, but I think based on this experience ET VOILA (www.EtVoilaDc.com) should be around for quite some time. Samuel and I truly enjoyed this real Belgian bistro where chef/owner Claudio Pirollo runs the kitchen. It is, as it has always been, a long narrow space, but the large mirrors at the top of the walls make it feel roomier as do the light colors. There are tables for two on the left side past a small bar and a banquette of orange leather running the wall on the right with tables for four; a small semi-private dining area is at the rear.
There were only TWO things that bothered me about ET VOILA and neither is a biggie. The orange Jackson Pollack-like plastic table runners hurt your arms and elbows and really are unnecessary and when we used the one bathroom, which is quite nice, the water in the sink did not work. I asked someone and they said to try it again, and it was fine. It seems that when the kitchen is using all their "water" forces, the
pressure in the bathroom gets a "no flow" situation!
That aside, the food and wine are superb. Samuel was thrilled with his moist and tasty CHICKEN FINGERS & FRITES which were actually two small breast pieces nicely seasoned and battered, rather than several fingers. He ate every single bite of it all, which is rare for him as it was a large portion, then polished off a 1/4 scoop of Vanilla Ice Cream.
I started with the magnificent CROSTILLANTS de BOUDIN NOIR avec Salade de Mache aue Miel. These were six cigar-pastry phyllo creations stuffed with spicy seasoned blood sausage and served on a mache salad with honey vinaigrette! WOW! I drank a superb PINOT BLANC from D. Kienstzler 2005 in Alsace that was so good I had another glass. It is perfect with any food, really.
The bread at the table was warm and crusty and Samuel remarked that he NOW INDEED likes GOOD crust on bread (but not on regular toast from a bag at home!). My entree was also superb, CARBONNADE a la FLAMANDE avec FRITES was a Flemish (beer) beef stew with a homey sauce that was divine and wonderful for dipping the fries into as well! A CHATEAUNEUF du PAPE from BERTHET-RAYNE 2006 was full of plum and spice and fruit and was simple a brilliant choice (by me) for this rich dish.
I was not planning on dessert but when I saw they had MISERABLE a la PISTACHE de SICILIE I HAD to know what it was, and it WAS GREAT! Two small cakes of almond pastry layered with Sicilian Pistachio Mousseline were on a bed of Strawberry Jelly which was really halfway between a jam and a gelee and thin and clear...it was the perfect flavor for the cake and I think I may have a new favorite dessert in town!
We went home happy hoping that ET VOILA stays around the 'hood for a long while.
There were only TWO things that bothered me about ET VOILA and neither is a biggie. The orange Jackson Pollack-like plastic table runners hurt your arms and elbows and really are unnecessary and when we used the one bathroom, which is quite nice, the water in the sink did not work. I asked someone and they said to try it again, and it was fine. It seems that when the kitchen is using all their "water" forces, the
pressure in the bathroom gets a "no flow" situation!
That aside, the food and wine are superb. Samuel was thrilled with his moist and tasty CHICKEN FINGERS & FRITES which were actually two small breast pieces nicely seasoned and battered, rather than several fingers. He ate every single bite of it all, which is rare for him as it was a large portion, then polished off a 1/4 scoop of Vanilla Ice Cream.
I started with the magnificent CROSTILLANTS de BOUDIN NOIR avec Salade de Mache aue Miel. These were six cigar-pastry phyllo creations stuffed with spicy seasoned blood sausage and served on a mache salad with honey vinaigrette! WOW! I drank a superb PINOT BLANC from D. Kienstzler 2005 in Alsace that was so good I had another glass. It is perfect with any food, really.
The bread at the table was warm and crusty and Samuel remarked that he NOW INDEED likes GOOD crust on bread (but not on regular toast from a bag at home!). My entree was also superb, CARBONNADE a la FLAMANDE avec FRITES was a Flemish (beer) beef stew with a homey sauce that was divine and wonderful for dipping the fries into as well! A CHATEAUNEUF du PAPE from BERTHET-RAYNE 2006 was full of plum and spice and fruit and was simple a brilliant choice (by me) for this rich dish.
I was not planning on dessert but when I saw they had MISERABLE a la PISTACHE de SICILIE I HAD to know what it was, and it WAS GREAT! Two small cakes of almond pastry layered with Sicilian Pistachio Mousseline were on a bed of Strawberry Jelly which was really halfway between a jam and a gelee and thin and clear...it was the perfect flavor for the cake and I think I may have a new favorite dessert in town!
We went home happy hoping that ET VOILA stays around the 'hood for a long while.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
luscious at LIA's (Chevy Chase ,MD)
We had the pleasure of taking out Samuel's two babysitters since he came home 5-1/2 years ago and their family last night. We wanted something halfway between us and them, and chose LIA's in Bethesda, the sister or cousin to Chef Geoff's DC dining spots and it is a class above and truly fine spot. From the white or black napkins offered as you sit (depending on your clothes color) to the soft salmon walls, faux gray steel ceiling and soothing decor all around, it is a place to consider...often.
Luciano, our Brazilian server, was a gem and even offered to translate the menu for a relative who knew little English!
Keep in mind that when going to LIA's (www.liasrestaurant.com) there is an option of $6.00 valet or some 50cents an hour using the garage underneath (special rate requires validation).
We started with some varied olives and dried/cured meats...don't miss the olives stuffed with garlic and capicolla!! Our wine choices were a TOLOSA "No Oak" 2006 Edna Ranch Chardonnay from Edna Valley which we loved bringing the chard fruits out and leaving the oak behind and an "Old Vine Cuvee" 2005 from TRINITAS in Contra Costa that was fairly big and bullish and tasty, though I have no idea what the blend was.
Starters were the yummy CRACB CAKE with Roasted Corn Salsa and my a bit-too-small-if -you-ask-me CITRUS CURED SALMON "TAQUITOS." There were three mini tacos each stuffed with a superb slither of cured salmon and some creme fraiche drizzle; a fourth would have been nice. They were oddly suspended upright on the plate by being embedded in cold mashed potatoes, which are really not worth eating.
The entrees were all magnificent from the WILD MUSHROOM RAVIOLI and ROASTED SALMON, Herb Crsuted with Sauteed Rapini, Sweet Garlic Confit and Saffron Oil to the HANDMADE BLACK PEPPER PAPPARDELLE with VEAL Bolognese. My huge portion (to make up for the small starter?) of VEAL LIMONE with olives, rapini (somebody really likes sauteed rapini in the kitchen) and sweet peppers was a dream with nice light batter on the veal scallopini and a light lemon sauce.
Samuel opted for the PIZZA, which is a big choice item on the menu here. I was not too impressed with it, but perhaps with toppings the individual pizzas are better. He loved the Blueberry Sorbet for dessert and we tasted a nice TOASTED ALMOND Gelato (more like ice cream) and a superb PEACH UPSIDE DOWN CAKE with Fig Vinicotto, Peach Clear Caramel, Candied Almonds and Vanilla Gelato. Alot of thought went into this work, which had a resemblance to a rum-soaked baba and
was superb.
We look forward to a return engagement! And don't forget their specials: 1/2price wine on Sundays and from 4-630pm there is a $19.95 3-course deal with very restrcited choices.
Luciano, our Brazilian server, was a gem and even offered to translate the menu for a relative who knew little English!
Keep in mind that when going to LIA's (www.liasrestaurant.com) there is an option of $6.00 valet or some 50cents an hour using the garage underneath (special rate requires validation).
We started with some varied olives and dried/cured meats...don't miss the olives stuffed with garlic and capicolla!! Our wine choices were a TOLOSA "No Oak" 2006 Edna Ranch Chardonnay from Edna Valley which we loved bringing the chard fruits out and leaving the oak behind and an "Old Vine Cuvee" 2005 from TRINITAS in Contra Costa that was fairly big and bullish and tasty, though I have no idea what the blend was.
Starters were the yummy CRACB CAKE with Roasted Corn Salsa and my a bit-too-small-if -you-ask-me CITRUS CURED SALMON "TAQUITOS." There were three mini tacos each stuffed with a superb slither of cured salmon and some creme fraiche drizzle; a fourth would have been nice. They were oddly suspended upright on the plate by being embedded in cold mashed potatoes, which are really not worth eating.
The entrees were all magnificent from the WILD MUSHROOM RAVIOLI and ROASTED SALMON, Herb Crsuted with Sauteed Rapini, Sweet Garlic Confit and Saffron Oil to the HANDMADE BLACK PEPPER PAPPARDELLE with VEAL Bolognese. My huge portion (to make up for the small starter?) of VEAL LIMONE with olives, rapini (somebody really likes sauteed rapini in the kitchen) and sweet peppers was a dream with nice light batter on the veal scallopini and a light lemon sauce.
Samuel opted for the PIZZA, which is a big choice item on the menu here. I was not too impressed with it, but perhaps with toppings the individual pizzas are better. He loved the Blueberry Sorbet for dessert and we tasted a nice TOASTED ALMOND Gelato (more like ice cream) and a superb PEACH UPSIDE DOWN CAKE with Fig Vinicotto, Peach Clear Caramel, Candied Almonds and Vanilla Gelato. Alot of thought went into this work, which had a resemblance to a rum-soaked baba and
was superb.
We look forward to a return engagement! And don't forget their specials: 1/2price wine on Sundays and from 4-630pm there is a $19.95 3-course deal with very restrcited choices.
Tuesday, September 09, 2008
celebrating with FOOD & FRIENDS at the Inn at Little Washington (VA)
On Tuesday just over 50 of us hauled out (many by chartered bus) to the gastronomic temple of Chef Patrick O'Connell at the INN at LITTLE WASHINGTON, just 90 minutes west of DC in the Virginia foothills. While the afternoon started off drizzly, it cleared as we arrived to a bevy of footmen and women who escorted us from the bus to the new :function" facility just across from the inn. This beautiful space has several rooms and allows wedding parties, meetings and more, not to mention a huge yard on which a hot air balloon (and probably a helicopter) could land. We had three miniature ponies grazing there for show!
As we sipped ST. GERMAINE Blanc de Blancs (methode champenoise) sparkling and some had Duvel Belgian beer we enjoyed the warm sun, the company and the spectacular hor's d'oevres. These included ISLAND CREEK Oysters with a choice of Cucumber Salsa & Sorbet or Horseradish Mignonette with Cocktail Sauce Sorbet. Both were tasty and chilly and great, as were the simply plain oysters; but they were best for me with just a dribble of the plain crunchy CUCUMBER SALSA. WATERMELON SOAKED in TEQUILA with a drizzle of Balsamic was a refreshing almost palate cleanser of an hor's d'oevre and the stars were the MUSTARD CUSTARD quiche-like pastries and the superb BBQ PASTIES, an American version of the British pastry filled with bbq meat.
I switched to the Domaine Buisson-Charles 2004 MERSAULT which was also quite tasty (too much bubbly gets me gassy!) as I munched on the yummy PROSCIUTTO wrapped melon in Balsamic.
I forgot to mention that the purpose of this outing was a benefit to celebrate the 20th Anniversary of FOOD & FRIENDS(one of our favorite charities here in DC), and Chef O'Connell had graciously closed the Inn for our group (I am not sure how much was donated?) which was a special much-anticipated treat. Our last trip to the Inn in Oct 2001 was less than stellar as the service was mediocre and the food only okay, as Chef O'Connell was not in residence at the time.
We sat down to an unexciting and a bit too sweet for me DEMITASSE of Chilled Local WATERMELON SOUP. Next came the MELANGE of SPICY BIG EYE TUNA with Mango, Avocado, Crispy Shallots and Sake-Yuzu Sorbet which was quite tasty and served with a wonderful Jean Vesselle, "Oeil de Perdrix" Blanc de Noirs Brut (Rose) Champagne. My guest (who actually used to work at the Inn years ago) asked the charming sommellieuse, Meredith, if she did not think sake would be a better pairing, and she promptly brought over a bottle of "BRIDE of the FOX" Junmai Daiginjo from Kanbara that was sublime and intensely yeasty as well (like the champagne, but moreso). After this, she proffered a bottle of "Divine Droplets" or TAKASAGO's Ginga Shizuku, another Junmai Daiginjo (I believe) which we did not care for as much. An odd occurrence came later in the meal when the manager asked who would be paying for the extra sake. It was bizarre that they were pouring every kind of wine, beer and drink complimentary, but Meredith failed to tell us that there would be a charge for these sakes. It was not well handled and a bit awkward for such a refined considered top-quality establishment.
The next course was a teeny CRISPY MARYLAND CRABCAKE with a Trio of Sauces: Garden Sorrel, Classic Tartar and Roasted Red Pepper which kind of spilled into each other on the plate making it difficult to actually taste each one (perhaps this was intentional). The crabcake was gorgeous, crispy and way too small, even for a tasting menu. The Vindeos de Ithica, ODYSSEUS 2007 (white) Pedro Ximenes (grape) from Priorat was a revelation and a rare wine I would search for should anyone be able to get it!
Unquestionably the best course of the evening was the Pan Roasted MAINE LOBSTER on Local Sweet CORN Succotash with FRIED GREEN TOMATO, and luckily it was a good size portion, or I might have asked for more. I specifically assumed our grand dinner would be huge and tried to limit my hor's d'oevres to one each (save for the oysters!), but was surprised the courses were so few and so small. The lobster was paired with a creamy rich TALBOTT VINEYARDS, Diamond T Estate CHARDONNAY 2004 from Monterey, Calif that I have always adored; any chardonnay goes sublimely with lobster!
The main course was a sadly too dry VEAL PARMESAN REINCARNATED: Prosciutto Wrapped Pan Roasted Loin of Veal with SPINACH RAVIOLINI and Parmesan Broth. I guess when the reincarnated the meat, it simply dried out! The wine was a perfect pairing in that it was a juicy fruity rich red:Venegazzu della LOREDAN Gasparini, "Capo di Stato" 2003 from Colli Trevigiani made of 60% Cab and a blend of other grapes.
The requisite LILLIPUTIAN PASSION FRUIT DREAMSICLE was yummy and the dessert was a chocoholics dream, but not my cup of tea. I wish we had a choice. CHOCOLATE MELANGE a TROIS included a Black Forest Mousse Bombe, Chocolate Creme Brulee and Bitter Chocolate Souffle. The bombe was way too rich, the brulee nice and the souffle sublime. A Broadbent 10 Year Old Malmsey MADEIRA rounded out the evening, but I really missed the cheese course, as I expect it in a dining pavilion of this calibre. Kudos to Meredith at the end for offering up a splendid glass of CHATEAU d"YQUIEM 1991 (was this just for our fun drinking table?). We got a box of candies and cookies to take home, but I guess I left mine on the bus. Oh well.
While it was great to be with very special FRIENDS and indeed some very special (though not all of it) FOOD and glorious wines, it was a wonderful evening to celebrate a very special cause. I still have to say that a trek to the Inn is a long one, and while one a perfect night it can be a godlike experience, it was not on Tuesday (only some of it), and there are places here in the DC area that can come close and sometimes surpass without the drive--although those hills do make one feel so gifted.
As we sipped ST. GERMAINE Blanc de Blancs (methode champenoise) sparkling and some had Duvel Belgian beer we enjoyed the warm sun, the company and the spectacular hor's d'oevres. These included ISLAND CREEK Oysters with a choice of Cucumber Salsa & Sorbet or Horseradish Mignonette with Cocktail Sauce Sorbet. Both were tasty and chilly and great, as were the simply plain oysters; but they were best for me with just a dribble of the plain crunchy CUCUMBER SALSA. WATERMELON SOAKED in TEQUILA with a drizzle of Balsamic was a refreshing almost palate cleanser of an hor's d'oevre and the stars were the MUSTARD CUSTARD quiche-like pastries and the superb BBQ PASTIES, an American version of the British pastry filled with bbq meat.
I switched to the Domaine Buisson-Charles 2004 MERSAULT which was also quite tasty (too much bubbly gets me gassy!) as I munched on the yummy PROSCIUTTO wrapped melon in Balsamic.
I forgot to mention that the purpose of this outing was a benefit to celebrate the 20th Anniversary of FOOD & FRIENDS(one of our favorite charities here in DC), and Chef O'Connell had graciously closed the Inn for our group (I am not sure how much was donated?) which was a special much-anticipated treat. Our last trip to the Inn in Oct 2001 was less than stellar as the service was mediocre and the food only okay, as Chef O'Connell was not in residence at the time.
We sat down to an unexciting and a bit too sweet for me DEMITASSE of Chilled Local WATERMELON SOUP. Next came the MELANGE of SPICY BIG EYE TUNA with Mango, Avocado, Crispy Shallots and Sake-Yuzu Sorbet which was quite tasty and served with a wonderful Jean Vesselle, "Oeil de Perdrix" Blanc de Noirs Brut (Rose) Champagne. My guest (who actually used to work at the Inn years ago) asked the charming sommellieuse, Meredith, if she did not think sake would be a better pairing, and she promptly brought over a bottle of "BRIDE of the FOX" Junmai Daiginjo from Kanbara that was sublime and intensely yeasty as well (like the champagne, but moreso). After this, she proffered a bottle of "Divine Droplets" or TAKASAGO's Ginga Shizuku, another Junmai Daiginjo (I believe) which we did not care for as much. An odd occurrence came later in the meal when the manager asked who would be paying for the extra sake. It was bizarre that they were pouring every kind of wine, beer and drink complimentary, but Meredith failed to tell us that there would be a charge for these sakes. It was not well handled and a bit awkward for such a refined considered top-quality establishment.
The next course was a teeny CRISPY MARYLAND CRABCAKE with a Trio of Sauces: Garden Sorrel, Classic Tartar and Roasted Red Pepper which kind of spilled into each other on the plate making it difficult to actually taste each one (perhaps this was intentional). The crabcake was gorgeous, crispy and way too small, even for a tasting menu. The Vindeos de Ithica, ODYSSEUS 2007 (white) Pedro Ximenes (grape) from Priorat was a revelation and a rare wine I would search for should anyone be able to get it!
Unquestionably the best course of the evening was the Pan Roasted MAINE LOBSTER on Local Sweet CORN Succotash with FRIED GREEN TOMATO, and luckily it was a good size portion, or I might have asked for more. I specifically assumed our grand dinner would be huge and tried to limit my hor's d'oevres to one each (save for the oysters!), but was surprised the courses were so few and so small. The lobster was paired with a creamy rich TALBOTT VINEYARDS, Diamond T Estate CHARDONNAY 2004 from Monterey, Calif that I have always adored; any chardonnay goes sublimely with lobster!
The main course was a sadly too dry VEAL PARMESAN REINCARNATED: Prosciutto Wrapped Pan Roasted Loin of Veal with SPINACH RAVIOLINI and Parmesan Broth. I guess when the reincarnated the meat, it simply dried out! The wine was a perfect pairing in that it was a juicy fruity rich red:Venegazzu della LOREDAN Gasparini, "Capo di Stato" 2003 from Colli Trevigiani made of 60% Cab and a blend of other grapes.
The requisite LILLIPUTIAN PASSION FRUIT DREAMSICLE was yummy and the dessert was a chocoholics dream, but not my cup of tea. I wish we had a choice. CHOCOLATE MELANGE a TROIS included a Black Forest Mousse Bombe, Chocolate Creme Brulee and Bitter Chocolate Souffle. The bombe was way too rich, the brulee nice and the souffle sublime. A Broadbent 10 Year Old Malmsey MADEIRA rounded out the evening, but I really missed the cheese course, as I expect it in a dining pavilion of this calibre. Kudos to Meredith at the end for offering up a splendid glass of CHATEAU d"YQUIEM 1991 (was this just for our fun drinking table?). We got a box of candies and cookies to take home, but I guess I left mine on the bus. Oh well.
While it was great to be with very special FRIENDS and indeed some very special (though not all of it) FOOD and glorious wines, it was a wonderful evening to celebrate a very special cause. I still have to say that a trek to the Inn is a long one, and while one a perfect night it can be a godlike experience, it was not on Tuesday (only some of it), and there are places here in the DC area that can come close and sometimes surpass without the drive--although those hills do make one feel so gifted.
Sunday, September 07, 2008
bravos to BECK's -best brasserie in DC
Sunday evening we were treated by a dear friend to a belated birthday dinner for Samuel and we chose BRASSERIE BECK (www.beckdc.com) having always enjoyed the food, but having been wary of the noise level. We got a super quiet table in the back, and had a dream dinner. Even Samuel had a great time enjoying Grilled Salmon Fillet and Frites!
Our first wine request was not available, so we made a second choice with FERRATON "La Matiniere" 2006 Crozes Hermitages RHONE Blend which we know well as we had visited the wine cellar of Samuel Ferraton years ago when in the region. It is a wonderful blend, and he is a great winemaker, so you really can't go wrong with a Ferraton.
The soups created by Chef/Owner Robert Wiedmaier are always superb and Sunday was no exception with the LEEK & POTATO and the alway superb PEA SOUP with VEAL CHEEK MEATBALLS.
My STEAK TARTARE was sublime with a long narrow cheese-topped crisp (a small just passed poached quail(?) egg on top) and a wonderfully tasty slightly tangy lemony dressing around the plate (so you could use or not use it).
The simple leaf salad with fresh tomatoes was huge and tasty. Entrees included a magnificently cooked CRISPY SKATE WING a la Jacqueline (a regular diner at Marcel's) with Garlic & Spinach that would satisfy any fish lover, a rich BEEF "Carbonnade" STEW with Kasteel Beer sitting on a bed of polenta and my MUSSELS in the most traditional WHITE WINE & GARLIC Sauce. The mussels were juicy, plump specimens and the FRITES were perfect as always coming with a platter of three condiments: Mustard, Garlic Aioli and Rose Aioli (mayo with tomato). Samuel did not even use his ketchup on the fries; a true compliment to the chef! He finished dinner off with some tangy LEMON-LIME SORBET and we all headed home oh so happy!
Our first wine request was not available, so we made a second choice with FERRATON "La Matiniere" 2006 Crozes Hermitages RHONE Blend which we know well as we had visited the wine cellar of Samuel Ferraton years ago when in the region. It is a wonderful blend, and he is a great winemaker, so you really can't go wrong with a Ferraton.
The soups created by Chef/Owner Robert Wiedmaier are always superb and Sunday was no exception with the LEEK & POTATO and the alway superb PEA SOUP with VEAL CHEEK MEATBALLS.
My STEAK TARTARE was sublime with a long narrow cheese-topped crisp (a small just passed poached quail(?) egg on top) and a wonderfully tasty slightly tangy lemony dressing around the plate (so you could use or not use it).
The simple leaf salad with fresh tomatoes was huge and tasty. Entrees included a magnificently cooked CRISPY SKATE WING a la Jacqueline (a regular diner at Marcel's) with Garlic & Spinach that would satisfy any fish lover, a rich BEEF "Carbonnade" STEW with Kasteel Beer sitting on a bed of polenta and my MUSSELS in the most traditional WHITE WINE & GARLIC Sauce. The mussels were juicy, plump specimens and the FRITES were perfect as always coming with a platter of three condiments: Mustard, Garlic Aioli and Rose Aioli (mayo with tomato). Samuel did not even use his ketchup on the fries; a true compliment to the chef! He finished dinner off with some tangy LEMON-LIME SORBET and we all headed home oh so happy!
Saturday, September 06, 2008
Shirlington's (VA) SAIGONIQUE is a sure bet
Last night we tried the new and quite chic SAIGONIQUE (www.saigoniqueshirlington.com website to come soon) at 4251 Cample Ave, just across from the new Signature Theatre in Shirlington, VA. It was a huge success with us from the moment we entered, and the only flaw was the lack of and fairly slow service (they had two waiters for the whole place on a Saturday night, albeit it just after the hurricane cleared).
The red faux finished walls, oscillating bamboo fans on the ceiling with draped fabric hanging between them all give a classy feel to this intimate space with a "Buddha" bar in the rear with a lavender lit pebbled wall.
We decided to share a number of dishes, and one of the problems is that the platters are quite large, yet the "sharing" plates are quite small and don't really allow for more than one item on your plate at a time.
The wine list is decent with 9 reds and whites (including sparklings) all available by the glass or bottle as well as several reserve bottles (mostly reds). We opted for a wonderful refreshing and loaded with apple aroma BAUER Riesling "Hengtsberg" 2006 from the Burgenland in Austria which had a great strong taste of Granny Smith apples-superb with the spicy food. We decided to order a second bottle, and they were out, so we switched to the red "L" de Lyeth Cabernet Sauvignon (blend?) 2006 from Sonoma, which has lots of plum, chocolate and flavor, but is fairly smooth and drinkable now.
Our starters were the Goi Du Du Kho Bo, a superb GREEN PAPAYA Salad with strips of Spicy Beef Jerky. I didn't think the salad itself was that spicy, until I dipped my finger into one of the red dots decorating the ring around the plate to find out it was super-hot hot sauce! The GOLDEN QUAIL with Mixed Greens and Black Pepper Sauce was a huge portion with FOUR quail halves on a huge salad and the lemony pepper sauce on the side. The meat was grilled to perfection, tasty and just lightly seasoned and not spicy at all, allowing the flavor of the meat to come through.
The star of the appetizers and the meal itself was the HEN XUC BANH DA, a huge Black Sesame embedded RICE Cracker the size of a 3/4 quart bowl filled with Sauteed BABY CLAMS and MINCED CHICKEN in a dreamy sauce. It can be a bit messy as you break off the cracker and scoop up the filling into each piece, but it was worth every ounce of messiness for the superb taste and fun crunch.
The entrees we chose were (we could not resist) GOLDEN SOFT SHELL CRAB sauteed with Garlic & Butter over salad with the same Lemon-Pepper Sauce as the quail for dipping. These were two of the largest soft shells that I have seen in ages, battered and fried to perfection, and not in any way greasy; the sauce added just the right flavor again. The other dish was one of the several "caramelized" options offered here in style that I did not know existed in Vietnamese cooking: Spicy LEMON GRASS CHICKEN in CARAMEL SAUCE. This is NOT a sweet dish, think caramelised onions and you are on the right track. It was tasty, but we ended up taking most of it home as we were so full. The portions here ARE huge and shareable, but DO refrain from overordering unless you like doggie bags!
We look forward to returning as we are at Signature Theatre so often!
The red faux finished walls, oscillating bamboo fans on the ceiling with draped fabric hanging between them all give a classy feel to this intimate space with a "Buddha" bar in the rear with a lavender lit pebbled wall.
We decided to share a number of dishes, and one of the problems is that the platters are quite large, yet the "sharing" plates are quite small and don't really allow for more than one item on your plate at a time.
The wine list is decent with 9 reds and whites (including sparklings) all available by the glass or bottle as well as several reserve bottles (mostly reds). We opted for a wonderful refreshing and loaded with apple aroma BAUER Riesling "Hengtsberg" 2006 from the Burgenland in Austria which had a great strong taste of Granny Smith apples-superb with the spicy food. We decided to order a second bottle, and they were out, so we switched to the red "L" de Lyeth Cabernet Sauvignon (blend?) 2006 from Sonoma, which has lots of plum, chocolate and flavor, but is fairly smooth and drinkable now.
Our starters were the Goi Du Du Kho Bo, a superb GREEN PAPAYA Salad with strips of Spicy Beef Jerky. I didn't think the salad itself was that spicy, until I dipped my finger into one of the red dots decorating the ring around the plate to find out it was super-hot hot sauce! The GOLDEN QUAIL with Mixed Greens and Black Pepper Sauce was a huge portion with FOUR quail halves on a huge salad and the lemony pepper sauce on the side. The meat was grilled to perfection, tasty and just lightly seasoned and not spicy at all, allowing the flavor of the meat to come through.
The star of the appetizers and the meal itself was the HEN XUC BANH DA, a huge Black Sesame embedded RICE Cracker the size of a 3/4 quart bowl filled with Sauteed BABY CLAMS and MINCED CHICKEN in a dreamy sauce. It can be a bit messy as you break off the cracker and scoop up the filling into each piece, but it was worth every ounce of messiness for the superb taste and fun crunch.
The entrees we chose were (we could not resist) GOLDEN SOFT SHELL CRAB sauteed with Garlic & Butter over salad with the same Lemon-Pepper Sauce as the quail for dipping. These were two of the largest soft shells that I have seen in ages, battered and fried to perfection, and not in any way greasy; the sauce added just the right flavor again. The other dish was one of the several "caramelized" options offered here in style that I did not know existed in Vietnamese cooking: Spicy LEMON GRASS CHICKEN in CARAMEL SAUCE. This is NOT a sweet dish, think caramelised onions and you are on the right track. It was tasty, but we ended up taking most of it home as we were so full. The portions here ARE huge and shareable, but DO refrain from overordering unless you like doggie bags!
We look forward to returning as we are at Signature Theatre so often!
Tuesday, September 02, 2008
the last lunch at Brighton's BROWN's -musings on UK cuisine
We have enjoyed so many meals in England the past 10 days or so, and the last day, we took Samuel and his Uncle Jeff to lunch in Brighton after some clothes shopping (we actually found a great discount store!) at BROWN's on Dean Street, located in the Lanes of Brighton (an historic district revitalized just off the seashore). Brown's is about 40 years old and has lots of charm, potted palm ferns and leather banquets and lots of charm. The menu is large and it was hard to choose. We ordered up a TOMATO & MOZZARELLA FLATBREAD appetizer for Samuel, which he gobbled up with his fizzy lemonade, a treat he has come to adore here in England and will surely miss at home.
The rest of us split an appetizer of the SMOKED CHICKEN & GRILLED ARTICHOKE FLATBREAD with Rocket (you will recall, I hope, that this is Arucola) which the Brits seem to really think is a special treat as they charge lots more for it than regular field greens. The flatbread has fluffy crusts and was quite tasty, b ut could have used one more slice of chicken and artichoke.
I enjoyed a glass of Domaine due Vedihan Viognier and my superb SWORDFISH with Sauteed Potatoes, Avocado and Cherry Tomato Salsa, although I would not have called it "salsa," as they were really just slightly cooked and marinated in oil with a couple of onion tidbits. The fish was excellent and I loved the simple preparation. Jeff had the SALMON & SPRING ONION FISHCAKES with Mango Salsa (this was salsa) and Dressed Mixed Leaves (I am glad they were not naked!) which were quite good but a bit too heavy on the breading as opposed to the salmon for my taste (we are SO spoiled by our cakes--esp. crab-- back home). Will loved his BROWN's BACON CHEESEBURGER with crisp streaky dry cured bacon, Emmental, iceburg lettuce, tomato, pickle and chips (again, that's fries). It came with a celeriac coleslaw I was hoping to taste as Will does not usually care for cole slaw, but he devoured the whole pile saying it was great.
Samuel was the only one for a pudding this time as it came with his and the Fresh Strawberries with ELDERFLOWER JELLY (we would call it Jell-O) was superb. A small mold of yummy perfumey jelly embedded with wild blueberries and brambles (small blackberries) that were divine.
It was a fun way to end our last meal out. We started numerous days with superb breakfasts included at some hotels we stayed in, but my most interesting new dish was KEDGEREE with Smoked Trout and Poached Egg. Kedgeree is basically a risotto style preparation of harder yellow rice and the smoked trout is within and the egg on top...a truly new way to start the day. One day we enjoyed very traditional FISH & CHIPS, and while it was tasty, we felt truly imposed upon to pay an extra pound for a buttered roll, and 20 pence (37cents) for each small container of ketchup as it does not come with the chips. At one point when I stepped up to the counter to grab some extra napkins, I was sure the woman was going to charge me for that!
So many people have badmouthed the food in England over the years and I must tell them, it is time to admit that the food here is interesting, varied, fun, excellent and well worth the trip!
The rest of us split an appetizer of the SMOKED CHICKEN & GRILLED ARTICHOKE FLATBREAD with Rocket (you will recall, I hope, that this is Arucola) which the Brits seem to really think is a special treat as they charge lots more for it than regular field greens. The flatbread has fluffy crusts and was quite tasty, b ut could have used one more slice of chicken and artichoke.
I enjoyed a glass of Domaine due Vedihan Viognier and my superb SWORDFISH with Sauteed Potatoes, Avocado and Cherry Tomato Salsa, although I would not have called it "salsa," as they were really just slightly cooked and marinated in oil with a couple of onion tidbits. The fish was excellent and I loved the simple preparation. Jeff had the SALMON & SPRING ONION FISHCAKES with Mango Salsa (this was salsa) and Dressed Mixed Leaves (I am glad they were not naked!) which were quite good but a bit too heavy on the breading as opposed to the salmon for my taste (we are SO spoiled by our cakes--esp. crab-- back home). Will loved his BROWN's BACON CHEESEBURGER with crisp streaky dry cured bacon, Emmental, iceburg lettuce, tomato, pickle and chips (again, that's fries). It came with a celeriac coleslaw I was hoping to taste as Will does not usually care for cole slaw, but he devoured the whole pile saying it was great.
Samuel was the only one for a pudding this time as it came with his and the Fresh Strawberries with ELDERFLOWER JELLY (we would call it Jell-O) was superb. A small mold of yummy perfumey jelly embedded with wild blueberries and brambles (small blackberries) that were divine.
It was a fun way to end our last meal out. We started numerous days with superb breakfasts included at some hotels we stayed in, but my most interesting new dish was KEDGEREE with Smoked Trout and Poached Egg. Kedgeree is basically a risotto style preparation of harder yellow rice and the smoked trout is within and the egg on top...a truly new way to start the day. One day we enjoyed very traditional FISH & CHIPS, and while it was tasty, we felt truly imposed upon to pay an extra pound for a buttered roll, and 20 pence (37cents) for each small container of ketchup as it does not come with the chips. At one point when I stepped up to the counter to grab some extra napkins, I was sure the woman was going to charge me for that!
So many people have badmouthed the food in England over the years and I must tell them, it is time to admit that the food here is interesting, varied, fun, excellent and well worth the trip!
Monday, September 01, 2008
the food at FOOD in Worthing is very worthwhile (near Brighton, UK)
Our last big dinner (other than superb dining at Will's brother's home) was in their seaside town of Worthing in West Sussex, about an hour plus south of London. Will's brother Jeff, and his partner, John, chose FOOD (www.protorestaurantgroup.com) just a block off the seashore and two blocks from their home. It was a great choice as we all enjoyed everything, and the only one error, an overcooked Beef Wellington, was immediately returned and replaces (although it took an extra 20 minutes to cook) with all its side dishes being replaced as well! John thought our adorable server was Swedish, and I said, perhaps, but his accent sounded Swedish by way of Scotland. WRONG! He proudly told us he was Transylvanian. His co-worker was Hungarian, and these days with the EU, we do indeed se so many people crossing the country borders for work and no matter what, everyone is always so nice.
FOOD has a second floor mezzanine and enjoyable live pianist and the decor is simple, but elegant. We asked for a bottle of Chateau Pouilly Pouilly Fuisse, but got a MOMMESSIN 2006 "2 Terroirs" Pouilly Fuisse which we gladly accepted for the same price and fell for instantly; it was love at first sip - creamy, rich, intense chardonnay to die for. As we chose some spicy starters we reversed to a simpler ANTARIO 2007 GAVI from Piemonte (Italy) which was a great choice with the OCTOPUS CREOLE (the only dish that was sort of small) that was tender and just slightly spicy, the ROASTED SALTED SARDINES and my amazing COCONUT ROPE-GROWN MUSSELS with Lemongrass, Coconut, chilli and onions. The sauce was spicy and totally intense and I had to mop up a cup of so with the big soft bread it came with.
Our entrees were all top notch from Will's (at first overcooked, but rectified) BEEF WELLINGTON in Red Wine Sauce (there was a choice of red wine, blue cheese or peppercorn sauces) served with summer veggies and a choice of potatoes (which came with al dishes but mine) of new, mashed, roasted or chips.
Jeff said the SWEET CHILLI SWORDFISH was quite good and John adored his MAPLE SYRUP LAMB SHANK which I tasted and raved about. Having had the mussels, a virtual entree size starter, my VENISON & DUMPLING STEW was probably the other heaviest item on the menu--but was exquisite. I ledt one piece of meat and asked for a kittie bag (Jeff & John have a cat) and they said they normally don't do that, but would indulge me. That's the funniest thing I find about dining in Europe; they would rather toss the food than let you take it home. We enjoyed a nice 2004 CLANCY's Shiraz-Cabernet-Merlot from Peter Lehmann with our entrees and only Will opted for dessert and I tasted his TRUFFLE & BAILEY's CHEESECAKE which was a very light whipped style cheesecake; nice after two heavy dishes--but one bite was enough. The Hungarian server offered us complimentary coffees and after dinner drinks and we reluctantly agreed, well after saying no, we quickly changed our minds and waddled the two blocks home.
FOOD has a second floor mezzanine and enjoyable live pianist and the decor is simple, but elegant. We asked for a bottle of Chateau Pouilly Pouilly Fuisse, but got a MOMMESSIN 2006 "2 Terroirs" Pouilly Fuisse which we gladly accepted for the same price and fell for instantly; it was love at first sip - creamy, rich, intense chardonnay to die for. As we chose some spicy starters we reversed to a simpler ANTARIO 2007 GAVI from Piemonte (Italy) which was a great choice with the OCTOPUS CREOLE (the only dish that was sort of small) that was tender and just slightly spicy, the ROASTED SALTED SARDINES and my amazing COCONUT ROPE-GROWN MUSSELS with Lemongrass, Coconut, chilli and onions. The sauce was spicy and totally intense and I had to mop up a cup of so with the big soft bread it came with.
Our entrees were all top notch from Will's (at first overcooked, but rectified) BEEF WELLINGTON in Red Wine Sauce (there was a choice of red wine, blue cheese or peppercorn sauces) served with summer veggies and a choice of potatoes (which came with al dishes but mine) of new, mashed, roasted or chips.
Jeff said the SWEET CHILLI SWORDFISH was quite good and John adored his MAPLE SYRUP LAMB SHANK which I tasted and raved about. Having had the mussels, a virtual entree size starter, my VENISON & DUMPLING STEW was probably the other heaviest item on the menu--but was exquisite. I ledt one piece of meat and asked for a kittie bag (Jeff & John have a cat) and they said they normally don't do that, but would indulge me. That's the funniest thing I find about dining in Europe; they would rather toss the food than let you take it home. We enjoyed a nice 2004 CLANCY's Shiraz-Cabernet-Merlot from Peter Lehmann with our entrees and only Will opted for dessert and I tasted his TRUFFLE & BAILEY's CHEESECAKE which was a very light whipped style cheesecake; nice after two heavy dishes--but one bite was enough. The Hungarian server offered us complimentary coffees and after dinner drinks and we reluctantly agreed, well after saying no, we quickly changed our minds and waddled the two blocks home.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Broadway brings us to the GREAT HALL at the Lygon Arms (Cotswolds,UK)
Our last night in the Cotswolds found us at the LYGON ARMS Hotel, an historic property that has actually always been an inn for almost 500 years. It is indeed a remarkable property, although its recent change of hands thrice in five years may have put the dining room called the GREAT HALL into a slightly tenuous state.
The staff is attentive (and huge, as is the room), and the huge curved vaulted ceiling and walk in fireplace do lend a very old feel, although we were told this was a 20th century addition to the hotel! Apparently the stuffed animal heads that once adorned with upper wall are gone forever, now replaced with lots of mirrors which we did not care for (as you look up, you keep seeing yourself). The chairs are big and comfy and the tables are large, if a bit close (a gentleman next to me clearly had on WAY too much cologne). We were shocked that no amuse came, and the bread was standard and not warm.
We started with a bottle of BAY of FIRES "Tigress" SAUVIGNON BLANC from Tasmania as in the past we have enjoyed some great Tasmanian wines while in the UK. This was no exception with a huge gooseberry nose and even taste at first then moving into citrus and lemon. We also had some fun comparing bottled waters. The Great Hall's regular is the British BLENHEIM and it has a very steely taste when we compared it to our favorite, the French BADOIT, which is softer and also has a bit less gas.
Will's SMOKED TROUT PAUPIETTE was fresh smoked fish wrapped around a trout mousse with LYGON GARDEN Tomato Salad and was sublime. My TERRINE of DUCK CONFIT & POACHED PLUMS with Beetroot Relish was also nice, but no prize winner.
We moved to a simple MERCUREY (light Pinot Noir) 2004 from Domaine de Sureman with our entrees which were both excellent: Breast of GUINEA FOWL, Limes, Fondant Potatoes, Glazed Carrots for Will and for me the Chilean SEA BASS, with Creamed Leeks & Peas and Saffron Potatoes. I try hard to eat local foods and felt it was daft (UK for "lame") to order Chilean fish, but the sauce was sublime and I was happy. The potatoes were the standard parslied boiled ones and if there was saffron in them, it was barely a pinch.
Will chose the BAKEWELL Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream for dessert which is kind of an almond pie or cake while my PEACH MELBA, PEACH SORBET and Fresh Raspberries was a disaster, save for the sorbet and 3 raspberries. The peach was nice and sat atop a kind of cardboard-like semi-freddo. I asked the server what it was and she said "ice cream." I told her it tasted like cardboard, and since she was from Germany, she did not understand, but said she would pass it on to the chef. Nobody ever apologized, we paid and left for a short walk around the totally dead at 10pm village, where swe spotted a number of busy dining spots where we might have saved money and probably done a lot better!
The staff is attentive (and huge, as is the room), and the huge curved vaulted ceiling and walk in fireplace do lend a very old feel, although we were told this was a 20th century addition to the hotel! Apparently the stuffed animal heads that once adorned with upper wall are gone forever, now replaced with lots of mirrors which we did not care for (as you look up, you keep seeing yourself). The chairs are big and comfy and the tables are large, if a bit close (a gentleman next to me clearly had on WAY too much cologne). We were shocked that no amuse came, and the bread was standard and not warm.
We started with a bottle of BAY of FIRES "Tigress" SAUVIGNON BLANC from Tasmania as in the past we have enjoyed some great Tasmanian wines while in the UK. This was no exception with a huge gooseberry nose and even taste at first then moving into citrus and lemon. We also had some fun comparing bottled waters. The Great Hall's regular is the British BLENHEIM and it has a very steely taste when we compared it to our favorite, the French BADOIT, which is softer and also has a bit less gas.
Will's SMOKED TROUT PAUPIETTE was fresh smoked fish wrapped around a trout mousse with LYGON GARDEN Tomato Salad and was sublime. My TERRINE of DUCK CONFIT & POACHED PLUMS with Beetroot Relish was also nice, but no prize winner.
We moved to a simple MERCUREY (light Pinot Noir) 2004 from Domaine de Sureman with our entrees which were both excellent: Breast of GUINEA FOWL, Limes, Fondant Potatoes, Glazed Carrots for Will and for me the Chilean SEA BASS, with Creamed Leeks & Peas and Saffron Potatoes. I try hard to eat local foods and felt it was daft (UK for "lame") to order Chilean fish, but the sauce was sublime and I was happy. The potatoes were the standard parslied boiled ones and if there was saffron in them, it was barely a pinch.
Will chose the BAKEWELL Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream for dessert which is kind of an almond pie or cake while my PEACH MELBA, PEACH SORBET and Fresh Raspberries was a disaster, save for the sorbet and 3 raspberries. The peach was nice and sat atop a kind of cardboard-like semi-freddo. I asked the server what it was and she said "ice cream." I told her it tasted like cardboard, and since she was from Germany, she did not understand, but said she would pass it on to the chef. Nobody ever apologized, we paid and left for a short walk around the totally dead at 10pm village, where swe spotted a number of busy dining spots where we might have saved money and probably done a lot better!
Friday, August 29, 2008
Chipping Campden take two:The NOEL ARMS not bad, not much
After our expulsion from the luxurious Cotswolds House we were shuttled across the street to a much lesser hotel owned by the same folks called the Noel Arms. It is an historic spot dating back to the 15th century as an inn, and Samuel really wanted to eat in the pub section which did look quite old and cozy.
It was getting late so he settled in with a plate of FISH & CHIPS, Mushy Peas (which he did not like, and Will stated were a bit to sweet) and what I think was the best Tartar sauce just about anywhere. We ordered a bottle of VINA del ALBA 2005 ALBARINO as we were hot and sweaty from settling in upstairs in our room with one teeeeny window and no a/c and welcomed the crisp cold wine. We deserved it!
Will chose the WHITE & BROWN (Devonshire) CRAB MEAT with spring onion, cappers (they spell it with one or two "p's" here), tomato salsa and fresh summer leafs (aka field greens). It was quite a watery display of crab with little taste, which we knew we shouldn't have dared to try, but felt we needed to as a service to you, my readers. Stick to Maryland crab! My HOME SMOKED WOODPIGEON BREASTS were the opposite, as dry as could be. The meat was smoked nicely and served with an APPLE & GOOSEBERRY Compote (basically applesauce) that did moisten the meat, but not much.
The main courses fared much much better with Will's PULLED HAM HOCK & Crushed New Potatoes in a Red Wine Sauce being a huge portion most tasty and my POUSSIN BREAST FILLET with Lemon and Coriander Seeds being moist in a slightly creamy sauce that was lemony, zesty and just plain yum yum. It came with two MARINATED LEGS and Basmati Rice. All dishes come with a large array of Seasonal veggies and we had the requisite, carrots, mange-touts (snow peas), and more. A bottle of CHATEAUNEUF du PAPE 2006 Cuvee Tradition from Caves Saint-Pierre went great and the wine was only about 20-something pounds (the Albarino was 19)!
Will had the Summer Fruit Pudding, very similar to trifle while I returned to the cheese platter. Here they also took care to note (like the night before) that each cheese came from within 15 miles; many were indeed the same tasty ones, but without all the chutney and such pairings:
SINGLE GLOUCESTER (which I did not even know existed) is nowhere near as good as
DOUBLE CLOUCESTER which we see much of in the US
CERVEY Goat returned along with HEREFORD HOP
Again the star was the ST. AEDBURGHA, which is apparently made just down the road from where we are today! I must try to get some to bring to Will's brother's home where we head tonight. This Camembert style cheese is slightly runny and loaded with flavor.
WINDRUTH VALLEY GOAT was a new one and the last cheese was called STINKING BISHOP--yup, and it did. Samuel laughed a lot at the name and
we went back to our hothouse room to try and sleep.
It was getting late so he settled in with a plate of FISH & CHIPS, Mushy Peas (which he did not like, and Will stated were a bit to sweet) and what I think was the best Tartar sauce just about anywhere. We ordered a bottle of VINA del ALBA 2005 ALBARINO as we were hot and sweaty from settling in upstairs in our room with one teeeeny window and no a/c and welcomed the crisp cold wine. We deserved it!
Will chose the WHITE & BROWN (Devonshire) CRAB MEAT with spring onion, cappers (they spell it with one or two "p's" here), tomato salsa and fresh summer leafs (aka field greens). It was quite a watery display of crab with little taste, which we knew we shouldn't have dared to try, but felt we needed to as a service to you, my readers. Stick to Maryland crab! My HOME SMOKED WOODPIGEON BREASTS were the opposite, as dry as could be. The meat was smoked nicely and served with an APPLE & GOOSEBERRY Compote (basically applesauce) that did moisten the meat, but not much.
The main courses fared much much better with Will's PULLED HAM HOCK & Crushed New Potatoes in a Red Wine Sauce being a huge portion most tasty and my POUSSIN BREAST FILLET with Lemon and Coriander Seeds being moist in a slightly creamy sauce that was lemony, zesty and just plain yum yum. It came with two MARINATED LEGS and Basmati Rice. All dishes come with a large array of Seasonal veggies and we had the requisite, carrots, mange-touts (snow peas), and more. A bottle of CHATEAUNEUF du PAPE 2006 Cuvee Tradition from Caves Saint-Pierre went great and the wine was only about 20-something pounds (the Albarino was 19)!
Will had the Summer Fruit Pudding, very similar to trifle while I returned to the cheese platter. Here they also took care to note (like the night before) that each cheese came from within 15 miles; many were indeed the same tasty ones, but without all the chutney and such pairings:
SINGLE GLOUCESTER (which I did not even know existed) is nowhere near as good as
DOUBLE CLOUCESTER which we see much of in the US
CERVEY Goat returned along with HEREFORD HOP
Again the star was the ST. AEDBURGHA, which is apparently made just down the road from where we are today! I must try to get some to bring to Will's brother's home where we head tonight. This Camembert style cheese is slightly runny and loaded with flavor.
WINDRUTH VALLEY GOAT was a new one and the last cheese was called STINKING BISHOP--yup, and it did. Samuel laughed a lot at the name and
we went back to our hothouse room to try and sleep.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
JULIANA's is a jewel at Cotswold House in Chipping Campden (Gloucestershire, UK)
We arrived in the Cotwolds after the long drive south from Yorkshire and settled in to our totally cool and modern suite at the Cotswold House Hotel, which is a true gem. I should preface this rave of a review for Juliana's and its chef Stephen Love with the fact while we were guests of the sales manager, a friend of mine for several years, we had an awful experience the next day when we were told we had to move rooms....across the street to another hotel to a very hot and noisy (although amazingly historic) room. The experience, along with the hotel misplacing my jewelry and house key and losing much of the next night's sleep at the liability of the hotel, was most unpleasant...but has not changed my mind about the amazing meal we had (see, how FAIR I can be!).
We sat down with Declan, our friend, to champagne and hor's d'oevres in the bar which consisted of
a POTATO with SMOKED SALMON, Creme Fraiche & Caviar
Crispy PORK BELLY on AVOCADO (this was supreme)
Parmesan SHORTBREAD with TOMATO Fondue and Feta
As we perused the menu, it was hard to choose, so we all decided on different things so we could taste lots more. A bottle of SAINT VERAN Domaine Jean-Claude BOISSET 2005 started us off on what had turned out to be a quite warm and almost muggy day for England...about 77 degrees....
The amuse was a Warm BEETROOT Puree with Poached QUAIL EGG and GOAT CHEESE that was also superb and we knew that more good stuff was yet to come.
The starters were 65degree(Centigrade) Coddled Free Range EGG, Braised PIG CHEEK, Pork Belly (actually more like bacon), Wild MUSHROOMS and "Hogan's Cider" (actually in jelly form) Seared SCALLOPS with Peanut Textures, Pickled and Raw Cauliflower, White TRUFFLE and APPLE Salad and my CUCUMBER and LANGOUSTINE which had a cucumber sorbet, papaya, cucumber soup and Royal Baer;s caviar.
The starters were all god but not really superlative....I think the pickled part of the scallops tuned me off and the egg, was again as in Yorkshire, an egg...no matter how intense the cooking procedure.
We moved to a bottle of LA CADENE Cotes du Rhone 2000 from Domaine Chaume-Arnaud that was just perfect at this age and great with all the main courses: 21 Day Matured BEEF(a 4ounce Herefordshire fillet) with Braised Ox Cheek, Oyster, Garlic, Blackcurrant, Onions and coffee brittle. As you can see Chef Love is inventive and creative to the max.
LIGHTHORNE LAMB Loin, Braised Shoulder and Epigramme (actually saddle of lamb, pressed and rolled in breadcrumbs) with Sweetbreads, Leeks, Mint Jelly and Girolles was also quite excellent, the highlight being the saddle.
My GOOSENARGH DUCK two servings came with the first platter of Breast, Winglet, Liver and Gizzard (these latter three gorgeously glazed), Peas, Carrots, Apple, Cumin & Dates. Second came a plate with CONFIT LEG and smashed pineapple. I was in heaven.
We all wanted dessert, but could not resist the awesome local cheeses...so we split a cheese platter which was perfect:
Cotswold Organic Brie served with Quince Jelly (Kirkham Farm) Berkswell with fig & almond wheel (like a small paste brick) from Ram Hill
HEREFORD HOP with apple. apricot & vanilla chutney haisl from Pind Farm and is a gorgeous crunchy, yeasty treat that we returned to again the next night!
CERNEY ASH GOAT with chilli jam was a great combo. a light goat dusted with ash
ST EADBURGHA came with tomato and pear chutney an is made at Gorsehill Abbey in Broadway (where we actually are tonight) and while Brie-like is creamier and richer like a double cream and was one of my favorites
St OSWALD served with plum and ginger chutney from the same Abbey is another treat that is not to be missed in the region
COTSWOLD BLUE is light again like the Yorskshire and was served with fig jelly and also comes from Kirkham Farm.
I do not know how I will survive back in the US without these magnificent treats.
We moved on to dessert and had the RHUBARD-RHUBARD which included ices, fritter and a rhubarb-ginger parfait with macadamia nut and custard on top. I loved the variety and fact that it was like three different dishes--well, you all know me by now.
Marinated Poached PINEAPPLE came with Coconut Porridge and Sesame Seed Crisp was not real porridge and was a bit of a disappointment for Will, and the STRAWBERRIES and CREAM with port wine, local vanilla ice cream, pink champagne jelly and smoked macadamia nuts was gobbled up pretty fast by our host Declan.
After some port (Grand Marnier for me), we rolled back to our suite and had a great night of sleep...which was good, as the next day was to bring a disaster.
We sat down with Declan, our friend, to champagne and hor's d'oevres in the bar which consisted of
a POTATO with SMOKED SALMON, Creme Fraiche & Caviar
Crispy PORK BELLY on AVOCADO (this was supreme)
Parmesan SHORTBREAD with TOMATO Fondue and Feta
As we perused the menu, it was hard to choose, so we all decided on different things so we could taste lots more. A bottle of SAINT VERAN Domaine Jean-Claude BOISSET 2005 started us off on what had turned out to be a quite warm and almost muggy day for England...about 77 degrees....
The amuse was a Warm BEETROOT Puree with Poached QUAIL EGG and GOAT CHEESE that was also superb and we knew that more good stuff was yet to come.
The starters were 65degree(Centigrade) Coddled Free Range EGG, Braised PIG CHEEK, Pork Belly (actually more like bacon), Wild MUSHROOMS and "Hogan's Cider" (actually in jelly form) Seared SCALLOPS with Peanut Textures, Pickled and Raw Cauliflower, White TRUFFLE and APPLE Salad and my CUCUMBER and LANGOUSTINE which had a cucumber sorbet, papaya, cucumber soup and Royal Baer;s caviar.
The starters were all god but not really superlative....I think the pickled part of the scallops tuned me off and the egg, was again as in Yorkshire, an egg...no matter how intense the cooking procedure.
We moved to a bottle of LA CADENE Cotes du Rhone 2000 from Domaine Chaume-Arnaud that was just perfect at this age and great with all the main courses: 21 Day Matured BEEF(a 4ounce Herefordshire fillet) with Braised Ox Cheek, Oyster, Garlic, Blackcurrant, Onions and coffee brittle. As you can see Chef Love is inventive and creative to the max.
LIGHTHORNE LAMB Loin, Braised Shoulder and Epigramme (actually saddle of lamb, pressed and rolled in breadcrumbs) with Sweetbreads, Leeks, Mint Jelly and Girolles was also quite excellent, the highlight being the saddle.
My GOOSENARGH DUCK two servings came with the first platter of Breast, Winglet, Liver and Gizzard (these latter three gorgeously glazed), Peas, Carrots, Apple, Cumin & Dates. Second came a plate with CONFIT LEG and smashed pineapple. I was in heaven.
We all wanted dessert, but could not resist the awesome local cheeses...so we split a cheese platter which was perfect:
Cotswold Organic Brie served with Quince Jelly (Kirkham Farm) Berkswell with fig & almond wheel (like a small paste brick) from Ram Hill
HEREFORD HOP with apple. apricot & vanilla chutney haisl from Pind Farm and is a gorgeous crunchy, yeasty treat that we returned to again the next night!
CERNEY ASH GOAT with chilli jam was a great combo. a light goat dusted with ash
ST EADBURGHA came with tomato and pear chutney an is made at Gorsehill Abbey in Broadway (where we actually are tonight) and while Brie-like is creamier and richer like a double cream and was one of my favorites
St OSWALD served with plum and ginger chutney from the same Abbey is another treat that is not to be missed in the region
COTSWOLD BLUE is light again like the Yorskshire and was served with fig jelly and also comes from Kirkham Farm.
I do not know how I will survive back in the US without these magnificent treats.
We moved on to dessert and had the RHUBARD-RHUBARD which included ices, fritter and a rhubarb-ginger parfait with macadamia nut and custard on top. I loved the variety and fact that it was like three different dishes--well, you all know me by now.
Marinated Poached PINEAPPLE came with Coconut Porridge and Sesame Seed Crisp was not real porridge and was a bit of a disappointment for Will, and the STRAWBERRIES and CREAM with port wine, local vanilla ice cream, pink champagne jelly and smoked macadamia nuts was gobbled up pretty fast by our host Declan.
After some port (Grand Marnier for me), we rolled back to our suite and had a great night of sleep...which was good, as the next day was to bring a disaster.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
the last night in Yorkshire--LEVEN at Crathorne Hall
We met up with Will's teenhood theatrical pal Sue and her partner Steve who we have been in touch with over the years and dined at our hotel, CRATHORNE HALL just 10 miles south of Middlesborough and has a 4-Michelin hotel rating. Despite our problems with the manager, the hotel and dining room deserve kudos as our dinner was superb. BRUNO PAILLARD Brut Premiere Cuvee Champagne started us off in the bar with some wonderfule treats:
LOTUS ROAST CRISPS
Sun Dried Tomatoes, Olives and Roasted Punmpkin Seeds in soy(yum) Chef James Cooper who we did not meet (was he there?) has a local menu that shines and we all tried lots of great dishes.
Steve opted for the Terrine of Smoked Eel, Runner Bean Salad and 2-1/2 hour egg.....I asked what it was like...and Steve bluntly said--a poached egg!
My POACHED LOIN of RABIT with Roasted Local LANGOUSTINES, Lentils and Lentil Dressing and Crisp Prosciutto was a dream come true and also included surprise GNOCCHI and mini-lardons. We had asked for a bottle of DOMAINE LAFAGE Cuvee Centennaire 2006 Cotes de Roussillon WHITE and they had opened the same in RED...but no problem..,we liked it and sked for the white first, which was yummy too. The red was a Cuvee Authentique 2005, and after sitting an hour was perfect.
Hand Dived Scallops with Smoked Bacon Creme Caramel (hints of the Fat Duck here),Peas & Girolles was another brilliant composition. The entrees were less varied as three of us chose LOIN OF MILK FED VEAL(bacon wrapped) with Pressed BRISKET en croute, DUCK LIVER Toastie (a bit high on fat) and Hazelnut Butter.It was the simple column of brisket that blew our minds and mouths.
Will chose the tasty ROASTED POLLACK with Cauliflower Cheese, Crayfish Pie (like a stuffed Yorkshire pudding) and Mash with Poached Egg. HEAVEN as well.
Desserts were all superb with a RHUBARB & CUSTARD deconstructed composition; the former in a mason jar, the latter as creme brulee all with Crumble Biscuits. Raspberry & Lime Jelly came with Elderflower Arctic Roll (sponge cake and ice cream), Poppyseed Tuile but it was MY YORKSHIRE cheeses that blew away all four of us:
Katy's White Lavender --ewe's milk
King Richard III cow (less exciting)
Ribblesdale Smoked Cow
and the supreme but not too strong but sublime creamy YORKSHIRE BLUE from Shephard's Purse near Thirsk just 15 miles away....we had that
again and again this week!
Sadly the music in this magnifcent Edwardian mansion came from a boom box in the corner and amounted to sad 70's pop....other than that..it was a sublime evening.
I apologize for yesterday's pub posting listing CHICKEN ASTA not PASTA, and I wish this google group system had a good food spell check!
ALAN --now in the Costwolds....more food reports soon.
LOTUS ROAST CRISPS
Sun Dried Tomatoes, Olives and Roasted Punmpkin Seeds in soy(yum) Chef James Cooper who we did not meet (was he there?) has a local menu that shines and we all tried lots of great dishes.
Steve opted for the Terrine of Smoked Eel, Runner Bean Salad and 2-1/2 hour egg.....I asked what it was like...and Steve bluntly said--a poached egg!
My POACHED LOIN of RABIT with Roasted Local LANGOUSTINES, Lentils and Lentil Dressing and Crisp Prosciutto was a dream come true and also included surprise GNOCCHI and mini-lardons. We had asked for a bottle of DOMAINE LAFAGE Cuvee Centennaire 2006 Cotes de Roussillon WHITE and they had opened the same in RED...but no problem..,we liked it and sked for the white first, which was yummy too. The red was a Cuvee Authentique 2005, and after sitting an hour was perfect.
Hand Dived Scallops with Smoked Bacon Creme Caramel (hints of the Fat Duck here),Peas & Girolles was another brilliant composition. The entrees were less varied as three of us chose LOIN OF MILK FED VEAL(bacon wrapped) with Pressed BRISKET en croute, DUCK LIVER Toastie (a bit high on fat) and Hazelnut Butter.It was the simple column of brisket that blew our minds and mouths.
Will chose the tasty ROASTED POLLACK with Cauliflower Cheese, Crayfish Pie (like a stuffed Yorkshire pudding) and Mash with Poached Egg. HEAVEN as well.
Desserts were all superb with a RHUBARB & CUSTARD deconstructed composition; the former in a mason jar, the latter as creme brulee all with Crumble Biscuits. Raspberry & Lime Jelly came with Elderflower Arctic Roll (sponge cake and ice cream), Poppyseed Tuile but it was MY YORKSHIRE cheeses that blew away all four of us:
Katy's White Lavender --ewe's milk
King Richard III cow (less exciting)
Ribblesdale Smoked Cow
and the supreme but not too strong but sublime creamy YORKSHIRE BLUE from Shephard's Purse near Thirsk just 15 miles away....we had that
again and again this week!
Sadly the music in this magnifcent Edwardian mansion came from a boom box in the corner and amounted to sad 70's pop....other than that..it was a sublime evening.
I apologize for yesterday's pub posting listing CHICKEN ASTA not PASTA, and I wish this google group system had a good food spell check!
ALAN --now in the Costwolds....more food reports soon.
Romaldkirk's ROSE & CROWN, a jewel, if pricey in remote No. Yorkshire
It's no often you get to pop in for lunch into a 1750's tavern a town where there are about maybe one to two hundred inhabitants and your partner runs into the church graveyard and finds four ancestors buried there!
Well, this happened yesterday at ROMARLKIRK in North Yorkshire where we chose the ROSE AND CROWN as recommended by our Michelin Guide! Well, the prices did seem very "Michelin" even without any stars, but the food was quite good. So, if you are about 20miles north of Barnard Castle, then head to the ROSE & CROWN.
Will could not resist the STEAK, KIDNEY & MUSHROOM Pie, short crust with Thealeston's Ale Gravy which was as superb pie en croute and had a thinner gravy than the pub the day before, but better ingredients.
Will's sister, Carol loved her WELSH RAREBIT with what looked like very yummy GRILLED BACK BACON and a side salad. Her partner, Gill looking for the veggie option chose the ROASTED VEGETABLE FRITTATA, Shaved Chevriot, Tapenade and Salad. Samuel gobbled up his BANGER, BEANS and CHIPS which is English for sausage, beans and fries....we told him it was an English hot dog!
My option was the CHICKEN ASTA with Chestnuts (which turned out to be Chestnut Mushrooms), BACON OLOROSO SHERRY and Rocket (which is English for Arucola). An excellent side salad made a complete meal for me, and we all headed on our tour of the region....
Well, this happened yesterday at ROMARLKIRK in North Yorkshire where we chose the ROSE AND CROWN as recommended by our Michelin Guide! Well, the prices did seem very "Michelin" even without any stars, but the food was quite good. So, if you are about 20miles north of Barnard Castle, then head to the ROSE & CROWN.
Will could not resist the STEAK, KIDNEY & MUSHROOM Pie, short crust with Thealeston's Ale Gravy which was as superb pie en croute and had a thinner gravy than the pub the day before, but better ingredients.
Will's sister, Carol loved her WELSH RAREBIT with what looked like very yummy GRILLED BACK BACON and a side salad. Her partner, Gill looking for the veggie option chose the ROASTED VEGETABLE FRITTATA, Shaved Chevriot, Tapenade and Salad. Samuel gobbled up his BANGER, BEANS and CHIPS which is English for sausage, beans and fries....we told him it was an English hot dog!
My option was the CHICKEN ASTA with Chestnuts (which turned out to be Chestnut Mushrooms), BACON OLOROSO SHERRY and Rocket (which is English for Arucola). An excellent side salad made a complete meal for me, and we all headed on our tour of the region....
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
The POVERINA aint no poor girl in Normanby (Teesside, North Yorkshire)
When it comes to pub food, outside London is where it's at, and here we are more than 250 miles north of London outside the steel city of Middlesborough where Will calls home. Normanby is, well, a suburb, and very close to where Will gre up, and his sister led us to THE POVERINA, a small local pub that does an amazing job with prices lower than anything I have ever seen in the states, so sticker shock with the pound exchange rate is not a factor here.
The children's menu is 3.25pounds for anything and comes with a side of one veggie (choice out of 5) and Samuel opted for the Spaghetti Bolognese with peas on the side. He devoured all the pasta and most of the peas and the portion was substantial.
The four of us chose the lunch special which was also under 4 POUNDS!!!!!! TOTAL!!!! and included a full entree wand a side as well as a pudding (aka dessert).
Will and I devoured the STEAK & ALE Pies with fries in a yummy brown gravy, and this was the authentic homemade pie that tasted of ale and had yummy meat to boot. I was amazing at the GAMMON STEAK, a huge slice of ham served with fried egg atop and sides and then well all had HUGE desserts.
The RHUBARB CRUMBLE was divine, especially when coated with "custard," which basically amounts to about a full cup of thicker than usual creme angalise!!
OMIGOD!! We all adored the simple yet delicious food for the most unreal prices and praised the staff as we rolled out the door. We shall seek further Yorskire dining tomorrow night on our last night
in the north, before heading to the Cotswolds.
The children's menu is 3.25pounds for anything and comes with a side of one veggie (choice out of 5) and Samuel opted for the Spaghetti Bolognese with peas on the side. He devoured all the pasta and most of the peas and the portion was substantial.
The four of us chose the lunch special which was also under 4 POUNDS!!!!!! TOTAL!!!! and included a full entree wand a side as well as a pudding (aka dessert).
Will and I devoured the STEAK & ALE Pies with fries in a yummy brown gravy, and this was the authentic homemade pie that tasted of ale and had yummy meat to boot. I was amazing at the GAMMON STEAK, a huge slice of ham served with fried egg atop and sides and then well all had HUGE desserts.
The RHUBARB CRUMBLE was divine, especially when coated with "custard," which basically amounts to about a full cup of thicker than usual creme angalise!!
OMIGOD!! We all adored the simple yet delicious food for the most unreal prices and praised the staff as we rolled out the door. We shall seek further Yorskire dining tomorrow night on our last night
in the north, before heading to the Cotswolds.
Monday, August 25, 2008
acclaim to AKBAR's The Grand in Leeds (UK)
On my second and final night in Leeds, I really wanted Indian food as it is always top notch here in the UK, and it was not hard to convince Will of the same, knowing that Samuel likes somosas, Our hotel and the guide books recommended AKBAR's THE GRAND at 16 Greek Street, just two blocks from the City Square where we dined the night before in the heart of the city, which is a vibrant up and coming area for al sorts of activity. It was, however, August bank holiday (e.g.. Labor Day), so many spots were closed.
Luckily, Akbar's was open and heaving. At 7pm it was almost full and the noise levels were high as we settled into high black leather chairs with the bit-too-dark lighting; although I did like the large votives hung on the central pillars. Samuel discovered "appleteaser," a fizzy apple juice and enjoyed a simple KEEMA SOMOSA if chicken onion and corn with no sauce.
The Papadam came with two superb chutneys: Tomato and Onion..I can't recall better. A HOUGHTON 2006 Western Australia Verdelho was bright and crisp and great with the spicy food.
The starters were MASALA FISH--a spiced and flash fried haddock (Sam loved the fish too)that was to die for and MURGH TIKKA a strongly spiced (ginger,garlic,coriander) chicken marinated in yoghurt then skewered and grilled to perfection. The cucumber and yoghurt raita was almost a necessity to cut the spice.
Our entrees were RISHAN LAL, a boneless lamb with onion, tomato and pepper with coriander which really needed the brown rice and was so filling and a miraculous MURGH TIKKA and KEEMA (not to be confused with the Murgh Tikka starter) which was a combination of large chicken chunk pot-roasted and mixed with minced lamb, ginger, garlic, herbs and spices. Even more filling than the lamb alone, this was a really novel and great dish. The NAAN we ordered was KULCHA with onion and cheese, but we marveled and the plain naan served at so many nearby tables on 3 foot tall metal hooks; our server insisted this was a tradition (at Akbars!!). We enjoyed a glass of HARDY's SHIRAZ and Sam requested the Strawberry Ice Cream--which they were out of...so we agreed to chocolate, and they brought this laden chocolate cake with ice cream and whipped cream which Samuel sneered at (oh, how happy we were as it would have sent him into a sugar frenzy), finally getting the scoop if chocolate, which tasted like it cam from a carton in the freezer way to long (with ice crumbles on it!).
A nice touch was a complimentary plate of fruit including superb slices of Casabah melon, or was it Persian?
We rolled home knowing we had to head north to Will's hometown the next day.
Luckily, Akbar's was open and heaving. At 7pm it was almost full and the noise levels were high as we settled into high black leather chairs with the bit-too-dark lighting; although I did like the large votives hung on the central pillars. Samuel discovered "appleteaser," a fizzy apple juice and enjoyed a simple KEEMA SOMOSA if chicken onion and corn with no sauce.
The Papadam came with two superb chutneys: Tomato and Onion..I can't recall better. A HOUGHTON 2006 Western Australia Verdelho was bright and crisp and great with the spicy food.
The starters were MASALA FISH--a spiced and flash fried haddock (Sam loved the fish too)that was to die for and MURGH TIKKA a strongly spiced (ginger,garlic,coriander) chicken marinated in yoghurt then skewered and grilled to perfection. The cucumber and yoghurt raita was almost a necessity to cut the spice.
Our entrees were RISHAN LAL, a boneless lamb with onion, tomato and pepper with coriander which really needed the brown rice and was so filling and a miraculous MURGH TIKKA and KEEMA (not to be confused with the Murgh Tikka starter) which was a combination of large chicken chunk pot-roasted and mixed with minced lamb, ginger, garlic, herbs and spices. Even more filling than the lamb alone, this was a really novel and great dish. The NAAN we ordered was KULCHA with onion and cheese, but we marveled and the plain naan served at so many nearby tables on 3 foot tall metal hooks; our server insisted this was a tradition (at Akbars!!). We enjoyed a glass of HARDY's SHIRAZ and Sam requested the Strawberry Ice Cream--which they were out of...so we agreed to chocolate, and they brought this laden chocolate cake with ice cream and whipped cream which Samuel sneered at (oh, how happy we were as it would have sent him into a sugar frenzy), finally getting the scoop if chocolate, which tasted like it cam from a carton in the freezer way to long (with ice crumbles on it!).
A nice touch was a complimentary plate of fruit including superb slices of Casabah melon, or was it Persian?
We rolled home knowing we had to head north to Will's hometown the next day.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Leeds leads to good food at THE RESTAURANT Bar & Grille (Yorskshire, UK)
While Will & Samuel arrived in Leeds the day before me to visit Will's sister who lives here, I popped over the pond a day alter and managed to stay up for a superb dinner my first night in Britain at The RESTAURANT BAR & GRILLE smack in the center of the city at CITY SQUARE in the architecturally magnificent old Post Office (www.therestaurantbarandgrille.co.uk). We liked the large enclosed wine cellar that guided us in the door and our table overlooking the open kitchen, but it was the food that was the hit for all out family.
A bottle of LES CERISES Cotes due Rhone ROSE 2007 was crisp, dry and fruity after a warm (75degree) day here in Yorkshire and worked excellently with the ASIAN Starter PLATE made up of THAI PRAWN CAKES with FISH SAUCE to dip in that were superb, wonderful DUCK SPRING ROLLs which even Samuel loved, CHILLI (they use two "l's" here) SQUID which was a nice calamari-like battered squid, VIETNAMESE VEGETABLE & MINT SALAD that sported some hot chillis, TEMPURA KING PRAWNS which were gobbled up so fast, I never got one, but was told they were excellent and the unsatisfactory MALAYAN CHICKEN SKEWERS which were basically dry chicken skewers in a magnificent sauce of yogurt, cilantro and peanuts.
Sam was in heaven with his Artisan Handmade TORTELLINI filled with SLOW COOKED SCOTCH BEEF RAGU in Tomato Sauce---it was as good as it sounds....
We moved on to a second ROSE, CHATEAU MINTY Reserve Cotes de Provence 2007 (from near St. Tropez) made from Grenache, Tiburon & Cinsualt and full of fruit, yet bone dry.
The entrees were even better and included SPIT ROASTED GRESSINGHAM DUCK with ORANGE & SPICE, ROAST LAMB CUTLETS & Fondant Potatoes, Baby Carrots, Peas and Broad Beans(described by Will's sister as "bloody lovely"), and a Sunday Special (all of these were read to us and sounded SOOO tempting) of 28 day AGED ROAST SIRLOIN BEEF with YORKSHIRE PUDDING, Roast Potatoes, Spring Green Vegetables and Gravy which Will gobled up tout-de-suite. The sides were gorgeous JERSEY ROYAL POTATOES which were roasted, yet light and fluffy and served with just a pinch of sea (or kosher) salt and the excellent SPRING GREEN Veggies consisting of PETIT POIS, BROCCOLI, MANGE-TOUT (the British term for pea pods) and more were prepared with a light butter sauce to perfection.
My CALVES LIVER with DRIED CURED BACON, Mashed Potatoes and Onion Rings came in a super rich brown sauce and was sublime. Our server Sally deserves 3 stars and never missed a thing, including getting Will and me a glass of red wine each with our entree--he had the Cotes du Rhones Villages Coteaux Les Bocetinot 2004/2006 (how weird to combine two vintages from more than a year apart) and I went for the richer bigger RIOJA VEGA del RAYO Vendemmia Seleccionada 2005/2006.
We could not resist puddings (dessert here in the UK) and Samuel adored his trio of ice creams: Banana/Toffee, Chocolate and Raspberry Ripple while Will gobbled up the very rich STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING with Vanilla Ice Cream. If you have NEVER had Sticky Toffee Pudding, it alone is worth a trip across the pond! The cheese plate consisted of excellent local cheeses: Mrs. Kikhan's Creamy Lancashire, Golden Cross & Cachel Blue with Biscuits and Pear Chutney. I adored my GRATIN of SUMMER BERRIES-blue,rasp,black and straw-with Raspberry Sorbet served in a light Creme Anglaise--Sam kept stealing my raspberries each time I turned away!
We all left knowing that we WILL return to this place on our next trip here, and Will's sister Edna and her partner, Sue, agreed to return in the fall for their anniversary!
A bottle of LES CERISES Cotes due Rhone ROSE 2007 was crisp, dry and fruity after a warm (75degree) day here in Yorkshire and worked excellently with the ASIAN Starter PLATE made up of THAI PRAWN CAKES with FISH SAUCE to dip in that were superb, wonderful DUCK SPRING ROLLs which even Samuel loved, CHILLI (they use two "l's" here) SQUID which was a nice calamari-like battered squid, VIETNAMESE VEGETABLE & MINT SALAD that sported some hot chillis, TEMPURA KING PRAWNS which were gobbled up so fast, I never got one, but was told they were excellent and the unsatisfactory MALAYAN CHICKEN SKEWERS which were basically dry chicken skewers in a magnificent sauce of yogurt, cilantro and peanuts.
Sam was in heaven with his Artisan Handmade TORTELLINI filled with SLOW COOKED SCOTCH BEEF RAGU in Tomato Sauce---it was as good as it sounds....
We moved on to a second ROSE, CHATEAU MINTY Reserve Cotes de Provence 2007 (from near St. Tropez) made from Grenache, Tiburon & Cinsualt and full of fruit, yet bone dry.
The entrees were even better and included SPIT ROASTED GRESSINGHAM DUCK with ORANGE & SPICE, ROAST LAMB CUTLETS & Fondant Potatoes, Baby Carrots, Peas and Broad Beans(described by Will's sister as "bloody lovely"), and a Sunday Special (all of these were read to us and sounded SOOO tempting) of 28 day AGED ROAST SIRLOIN BEEF with YORKSHIRE PUDDING, Roast Potatoes, Spring Green Vegetables and Gravy which Will gobled up tout-de-suite. The sides were gorgeous JERSEY ROYAL POTATOES which were roasted, yet light and fluffy and served with just a pinch of sea (or kosher) salt and the excellent SPRING GREEN Veggies consisting of PETIT POIS, BROCCOLI, MANGE-TOUT (the British term for pea pods) and more were prepared with a light butter sauce to perfection.
My CALVES LIVER with DRIED CURED BACON, Mashed Potatoes and Onion Rings came in a super rich brown sauce and was sublime. Our server Sally deserves 3 stars and never missed a thing, including getting Will and me a glass of red wine each with our entree--he had the Cotes du Rhones Villages Coteaux Les Bocetinot 2004/2006 (how weird to combine two vintages from more than a year apart) and I went for the richer bigger RIOJA VEGA del RAYO Vendemmia Seleccionada 2005/2006.
We could not resist puddings (dessert here in the UK) and Samuel adored his trio of ice creams: Banana/Toffee, Chocolate and Raspberry Ripple while Will gobbled up the very rich STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING with Vanilla Ice Cream. If you have NEVER had Sticky Toffee Pudding, it alone is worth a trip across the pond! The cheese plate consisted of excellent local cheeses: Mrs. Kikhan's Creamy Lancashire, Golden Cross & Cachel Blue with Biscuits and Pear Chutney. I adored my GRATIN of SUMMER BERRIES-blue,rasp,black and straw-with Raspberry Sorbet served in a light Creme Anglaise--Sam kept stealing my raspberries each time I turned away!
We all left knowing that we WILL return to this place on our next trip here, and Will's sister Edna and her partner, Sue, agreed to return in the fall for their anniversary!
Pentagon City is Puttin' on the RITZ at FABULOUS FYVE
Our restaurant week stories continue with only rave after rave, and we have found a new intimate fave rave at FYVE located at the Ritz-Carlton Pentagon City in Arlington, VA. Chef Amy Brandwein opened here just months ago after a long stint under Roberto Donna and as Executive Chef at the late Galileo in DC (oh how we wish that were back!) and she is rockin' the RItz with modern new and exciting American-Mediterranean cuisine.
Indeed the small dining room is modernized Ritz at its best with lost of space, comfy big orange fabric chairs, orange and brown swirly carpet, modern orange art and lots of orchids. The woods are dark and each place has a leather placemat emblazoned with a flap (it looks live a leather clip) with FYVE on it. The crystal is Schott, the wine list decent, the menu varied and restaurant week here allows you to choose from any three items! Of course, we had more.
Our first wine choice was out, so our excellent server Jaime offered up a DOAMINE de la CHAPPELLE au LOUPS Saint-Veran 2002 which was superbly minerally and dry and loaded with apples (for the same price as the wine we wanted!). The GAZPACHO presentation gives you a good idea of what Chef Amy can do and make it fun, especially on a hot summer night. Sadly, the waiter (busboy) who delivered it just left it without a word and we were at a loss. Chef Amy arrived and saved us describing the dish as Tomato Gazpacho over BEET CAMPARI GRANITA (yum, yum, yum!). The slight sweetness of the beet with the bitter Campari and tomato was a brilliant foil and each mouthful was different depending on how you combined the elements.
The superb bread and lavosh comes with an impossible to resist Olive/Artichoke/Parmesan/Garlic Tapenade and we had to say no if we wanted to keep on eating when it came to more bread!
The GRILLED OCOTPUS is made of deliciously crispy tentacles and slices with YUKON GOLD POTATOES, Black Olives and Sun Dried CHERRY TOMATOES bursting with flavor, while the SEARED SCALLOPES are huge (almost two inches across) with BACON and a CARROT SAUCE.
Chef Amy has learned the art of pasta well from a master and serves up homemade PAPARDELLE in the simplest yet most buttery of HERB SAUCES that is simply divine.
We moved onto the KAIKEN MALBEC from Mendoza in Argentina which has a really sweet nose but is a wonderfully rich and smooth wine that goes well with just about everything. Will opted for the SWORDFISH with Grilled Sweet PEPPERS, Lemon and Olive in a very traditional Mediterranean feel but bursting with flavor.
My GRILLED LAMB CHOPS were perfect and served with ARTICHOKES and HONEY LAVENDER SAUCE. The seasoning was strong (but okay by me) with a light relish, but the honey sauce paired wonderfully in making the spice less intense.
Desserts were also a success with a MINI SOUFFLE DUO (Chocolate and Grand Marnier), but my LEMON MERINGUE TART with BLUEBERRY Thyme Compote easily winning the contest--although I could not possibly eat every bite...even though it was sublime.
After a glass of 1994 ROZES LBV Port we headed home from the elegant hotel knowing that it IS a place to return to for fun or intimate events alike.
Indeed the small dining room is modernized Ritz at its best with lost of space, comfy big orange fabric chairs, orange and brown swirly carpet, modern orange art and lots of orchids. The woods are dark and each place has a leather placemat emblazoned with a flap (it looks live a leather clip) with FYVE on it. The crystal is Schott, the wine list decent, the menu varied and restaurant week here allows you to choose from any three items! Of course, we had more.
Our first wine choice was out, so our excellent server Jaime offered up a DOAMINE de la CHAPPELLE au LOUPS Saint-Veran 2002 which was superbly minerally and dry and loaded with apples (for the same price as the wine we wanted!). The GAZPACHO presentation gives you a good idea of what Chef Amy can do and make it fun, especially on a hot summer night. Sadly, the waiter (busboy) who delivered it just left it without a word and we were at a loss. Chef Amy arrived and saved us describing the dish as Tomato Gazpacho over BEET CAMPARI GRANITA (yum, yum, yum!). The slight sweetness of the beet with the bitter Campari and tomato was a brilliant foil and each mouthful was different depending on how you combined the elements.
The superb bread and lavosh comes with an impossible to resist Olive/Artichoke/Parmesan/Garlic Tapenade and we had to say no if we wanted to keep on eating when it came to more bread!
The GRILLED OCOTPUS is made of deliciously crispy tentacles and slices with YUKON GOLD POTATOES, Black Olives and Sun Dried CHERRY TOMATOES bursting with flavor, while the SEARED SCALLOPES are huge (almost two inches across) with BACON and a CARROT SAUCE.
Chef Amy has learned the art of pasta well from a master and serves up homemade PAPARDELLE in the simplest yet most buttery of HERB SAUCES that is simply divine.
We moved onto the KAIKEN MALBEC from Mendoza in Argentina which has a really sweet nose but is a wonderfully rich and smooth wine that goes well with just about everything. Will opted for the SWORDFISH with Grilled Sweet PEPPERS, Lemon and Olive in a very traditional Mediterranean feel but bursting with flavor.
My GRILLED LAMB CHOPS were perfect and served with ARTICHOKES and HONEY LAVENDER SAUCE. The seasoning was strong (but okay by me) with a light relish, but the honey sauce paired wonderfully in making the spice less intense.
Desserts were also a success with a MINI SOUFFLE DUO (Chocolate and Grand Marnier), but my LEMON MERINGUE TART with BLUEBERRY Thyme Compote easily winning the contest--although I could not possibly eat every bite...even though it was sublime.
After a glass of 1994 ROZES LBV Port we headed home from the elegant hotel knowing that it IS a place to return to for fun or intimate events alike.
Monday, August 18, 2008
DC COAST does it again with charisma
After a successful restaurant week in my book, I decided to return to DC COAST as I noticed that this week is WINE WEEK there. This means that there are eight wines by the bottle for $20.08 at lunch and $35.08 at dinner.
I settled in and ordered a yummy rich bottle of RIDGE "Three Valleys" ZINFANDEL 2006 from Sonoma that has a luscious blend of 80% zin, 10% Petit Sirah, 5% Grenache and 5% Carignane. A perfect wine alone or with most any food that is not too light or delicate.
My super bubbly and wonderful server Sarah came over to take my order and I already knew what I wanted as I had my mind set. She did bring a magnificent treat out that is not on the menu and the chef was experimenting with. Incidentally, the sous chef (I believe his name is Matt) just took over this week as Executive Chef until BRENDAN COX (of Circle Bistro) moves in as the new Exec in September! Anyway, Matt(?) handled the kitchen, the food and even my wonderful treat all with brilliance. It was a PAN SEARED DIVER SCALLOP and FOIE GRAS Sandwich. A piece of toasted BRIOCHE had twice thick slices of huge scallop disks on it with a small wedge of Foie Gras in between them (about 2 inches long by 1/2 inch wide) cooked to firmness and making this a
true "sandwich." A sauce on the side was a sublime TRUFFLE HONEYSUCKLE Honey served in a small pitcher with a wooden honey spoon to ladle over the sandwich. Need I say more?
At this point, as I was sitting upstairs on the mezzanine (it was my first time there), I started getting the giggles, thinking of how funny it would be to throw small pieces of bread out the cracks in the glass wall on the diners below. I didn't.
My appetizer was the huge portion of CAST IRON CROCK STEAMED BLUE HILL BAY MUSSELS in a rich and filling sauce of Sauvignon Blanc and Oven Cured Tomatoes. To top this off the dish comes with two 3-4 inch long miniature GRILLED CHEESE on BRIOCHE Sandwiches that taste amazing when dipped in the sauce. I was so full, I had to rest at least 30 minutes before my entree of CHINESE STYLE SMOKED LOBSTER with crunchy STRIFRY VEGETABLES and Crispy Fried Spinach. While waiting, I saw half of a CRAB TOWER go by--the diner had eaten the crabcake and left the softshell--I was MORTIFIED! My buttery and lightly spiced crustacean was a dream and will go down as one of the signature dishes of DC for a long time!
I was so full, I could not even think of dessert and packed off my little cookies to take home for Samuel (although I did eat the Blueberry Madeleine that was superb!).
I settled in and ordered a yummy rich bottle of RIDGE "Three Valleys" ZINFANDEL 2006 from Sonoma that has a luscious blend of 80% zin, 10% Petit Sirah, 5% Grenache and 5% Carignane. A perfect wine alone or with most any food that is not too light or delicate.
My super bubbly and wonderful server Sarah came over to take my order and I already knew what I wanted as I had my mind set. She did bring a magnificent treat out that is not on the menu and the chef was experimenting with. Incidentally, the sous chef (I believe his name is Matt) just took over this week as Executive Chef until BRENDAN COX (of Circle Bistro) moves in as the new Exec in September! Anyway, Matt(?) handled the kitchen, the food and even my wonderful treat all with brilliance. It was a PAN SEARED DIVER SCALLOP and FOIE GRAS Sandwich. A piece of toasted BRIOCHE had twice thick slices of huge scallop disks on it with a small wedge of Foie Gras in between them (about 2 inches long by 1/2 inch wide) cooked to firmness and making this a
true "sandwich." A sauce on the side was a sublime TRUFFLE HONEYSUCKLE Honey served in a small pitcher with a wooden honey spoon to ladle over the sandwich. Need I say more?
At this point, as I was sitting upstairs on the mezzanine (it was my first time there), I started getting the giggles, thinking of how funny it would be to throw small pieces of bread out the cracks in the glass wall on the diners below. I didn't.
My appetizer was the huge portion of CAST IRON CROCK STEAMED BLUE HILL BAY MUSSELS in a rich and filling sauce of Sauvignon Blanc and Oven Cured Tomatoes. To top this off the dish comes with two 3-4 inch long miniature GRILLED CHEESE on BRIOCHE Sandwiches that taste amazing when dipped in the sauce. I was so full, I had to rest at least 30 minutes before my entree of CHINESE STYLE SMOKED LOBSTER with crunchy STRIFRY VEGETABLES and Crispy Fried Spinach. While waiting, I saw half of a CRAB TOWER go by--the diner had eaten the crabcake and left the softshell--I was MORTIFIED! My buttery and lightly spiced crustacean was a dream and will go down as one of the signature dishes of DC for a long time!
I was so full, I could not even think of dessert and packed off my little cookies to take home for Samuel (although I did eat the Blueberry Madeleine that was superb!).
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Supeb SPEZIE rounds out Restaurant Week
While you can still grab one more night (tonight, Sunday) at restaurants that are open on Sundays, many DC dining spots have announced extensions of Restaurant Week specials, so check around and you may get a deal.
With Will and Samuel out of town for several days, I snuck off with "Uncle" Rick to SPEZIE last night (www.spezie.com) where Chef Cesare Lanfranconi (late of Tosca and Galileo) has now been ensconced for some time. He has madea most homey place for himself with not only the atmosphere, but the food itself as it is truly ITALIAN fine dining at its best.
As soon as we arrived it was great to see our old friend LUCIANO who worked for umpteen years at Galileo and really deserves an award for best waiter in DC (so I hereby award him the FIRST "Phyllis-teenY" Restaurant Award, perhaps I shall start my own awards competition and ceremony!). His smile and welcome would make ANYONE feel at home, and it is indeed like being served in his home when you are at Spezie. All of the menu was available for restaurant week and it was hard to decide. Rick went for the TROFIE di CASTAGNE al PESTO all Genovese which I thought tasted more like WHOLE WHEAT Pasta than Chestnut flour (and when Chef Cesare came out, we were informed I was correct as they had run out of the chestnut!). The basil pesto sauce was superb and this truly traditional dish had green beans, potato and aged pecorino in the style of Genoa.
My CARPACCIO d'AGNELLO in SALSA VERDE e Insalatina ai Capperi was just perfect as I really was not in the mood for a super heavy meal (having just been to a baby shower where the food was yummy!). The light lamb carpaccio had a superb sauce and was served with pickled onion and mache.
We enjoyed a wonderful, light, refreshing and just slightly sweet on the tip of the tongue BARBOURSVILLE ROSE 2006 from Virginia. I tend to associate Chef Cesare with Barboursville as he has cooked there regularly and we have had the pleasure of being there a couple of times when he was!
We moved on to a full bodied, smooth and yummy MONTEPILCIANO d'ABREZZO 2205 from CATALDI MADONNA that works with heavier fish and meat as well.
Rick opted for the tasty SALMONE SCOTTATO con ASPARIGI al PORSCIUTTO e CIPOLLOTTI al BALSAMICO. The asparagus were wrapped in huge slices of fresh prosciutto and the seared Salmon Fillet was served in a tasty sauce with Balsamic braised cipolline onions.
My PETTO d'ANATRA Arrosto con TORTINO di RISO e ASPARAGI, Salsa di CILIGIE e GRAPPA was another dream dish with a huge number of roasted duck breast slices served in a magnificent cherry and grappa sauce with each of the several accompanying cherries having been soaked in the grappa as well! It was accompanied by a light risotto and asparagus cake which was a perfect combo.
Desserts are always a treat as I remember the Tiramisu at Tosca always having been one of the best around. Rick went for the traditional and well made CREME BRULEE, while I opted for the CROSTATA alle FRAGOLINE di BOSCO con CREMA di RICOTTA e MANDROLE, Salsa alla Vaniglia which was a flaky pastry filled with strawberries, ricotta and almond with a creme Anglaise sauce.
Due Limoncelli, or two small glasses of that miracle after dinner drink sent us home very satisfied and completely happy with this year's choices for Restaurant Week!
With Will and Samuel out of town for several days, I snuck off with "Uncle" Rick to SPEZIE last night (www.spezie.com) where Chef Cesare Lanfranconi (late of Tosca and Galileo) has now been ensconced for some time. He has madea most homey place for himself with not only the atmosphere, but the food itself as it is truly ITALIAN fine dining at its best.
As soon as we arrived it was great to see our old friend LUCIANO who worked for umpteen years at Galileo and really deserves an award for best waiter in DC (so I hereby award him the FIRST "Phyllis-teenY" Restaurant Award, perhaps I shall start my own awards competition and ceremony!). His smile and welcome would make ANYONE feel at home, and it is indeed like being served in his home when you are at Spezie. All of the menu was available for restaurant week and it was hard to decide. Rick went for the TROFIE di CASTAGNE al PESTO all Genovese which I thought tasted more like WHOLE WHEAT Pasta than Chestnut flour (and when Chef Cesare came out, we were informed I was correct as they had run out of the chestnut!). The basil pesto sauce was superb and this truly traditional dish had green beans, potato and aged pecorino in the style of Genoa.
My CARPACCIO d'AGNELLO in SALSA VERDE e Insalatina ai Capperi was just perfect as I really was not in the mood for a super heavy meal (having just been to a baby shower where the food was yummy!). The light lamb carpaccio had a superb sauce and was served with pickled onion and mache.
We enjoyed a wonderful, light, refreshing and just slightly sweet on the tip of the tongue BARBOURSVILLE ROSE 2006 from Virginia. I tend to associate Chef Cesare with Barboursville as he has cooked there regularly and we have had the pleasure of being there a couple of times when he was!
We moved on to a full bodied, smooth and yummy MONTEPILCIANO d'ABREZZO 2205 from CATALDI MADONNA that works with heavier fish and meat as well.
Rick opted for the tasty SALMONE SCOTTATO con ASPARIGI al PORSCIUTTO e CIPOLLOTTI al BALSAMICO. The asparagus were wrapped in huge slices of fresh prosciutto and the seared Salmon Fillet was served in a tasty sauce with Balsamic braised cipolline onions.
My PETTO d'ANATRA Arrosto con TORTINO di RISO e ASPARAGI, Salsa di CILIGIE e GRAPPA was another dream dish with a huge number of roasted duck breast slices served in a magnificent cherry and grappa sauce with each of the several accompanying cherries having been soaked in the grappa as well! It was accompanied by a light risotto and asparagus cake which was a perfect combo.
Desserts are always a treat as I remember the Tiramisu at Tosca always having been one of the best around. Rick went for the traditional and well made CREME BRULEE, while I opted for the CROSTATA alle FRAGOLINE di BOSCO con CREMA di RICOTTA e MANDROLE, Salsa alla Vaniglia which was a flaky pastry filled with strawberries, ricotta and almond with a creme Anglaise sauce.
Due Limoncelli, or two small glasses of that miracle after dinner drink sent us home very satisfied and completely happy with this year's choices for Restaurant Week!
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
DC COAST conquers and claims the crab contest/DC Zagat '09
Hi foodies,
Just wanted to let you know that the Washington/Baltimore Zagat 2009 Guide came out last week and there are some new/odd/interesting items to be observed:
Most popular DC spots in order: Citronelle/Zaytina/Jaleo/Kinkead's
Top Food ratings go to Makoto (I like this but don't see why its #1)/Inn at Little Washington (tie) then 2nd place tie for Komi/Cityzen/Marcel's and L'Auberge Provencale. Third place honors for Citronelle/Eve/Obelisk/L'Auberge Chez Francois/Ray's the Steaks/Prime Rib/Le Paradou/Palena and Kinkead's.
Top Decor & Service went to Inn at Little Washington (watch here for a review in mid-Sept!)
While I may not totally agree, the Zagat guide does tend to be a pretty good reference in general.
As always, Zagat gives high scores (as I do) to DC COAST (www.dccoast.com) that has become, along with Kinkead's, one of the fine seafood bastions of DC cuisine.
We popped into DC COAST with Samuel on the second night of Restaurant Week and things were running quite smoothly. Those of you in the biz know that Restaurant Week can be feared. Will always enlightens me with such anecdotes about clients asking if they can SPLIT the lunch at $20.08. This week he got a call from one woman worried that being seated downstairs, she might be left in the dark! Anyway, DC Coast seems to have the clientele and the superb staff in order, and there was not a single glitch all night. Their menu includes a choice of about 6 or 7 starters, any main course (surcharge only for lobster) and a choice of 3 or 4 desserts. The minor limitations on starters probably keeps it a bit easier to manage, and they are all of good quality and have a wide range. Will had the YELLOW HEIRLOOM TOMATO GAZPACHO with CRAB that was sublime and I had the WARM BALSAMIC SHRIMP on WILTED SPINACH, Roasted Peppers and Garlic Toast. The three large skewered shrimp were moist and full of flavor from the balsamic sauce and roasted peppers in it.
Samuel went right for the FISH & CHIPS which were, to quote him, the best he has ever had (well, at least until we get to Yorkshire next week!). The batter was nicely seasoned and the fish was excellent. I thought at first it must be halibut, but was told it was tilapia, which I ALWAYS find so dry. I am totally amazed how Chef Travis Timberlake managed to keep this fish so moist! The fries were yummy too, as we explained to Samuel how the French called them "frites," the Brits "chips" and we French fries.
We started with a totally wondrous minerally, steely and slightly creamy SANCERRE 2006 from Chateau de Sancerre in the Loire; this wine has everything going for it and is perfect with most seafood (think of that mineral acidity with the gazpacho and the balsamic!).
We wanted to try several things so two additional appetizers came (not on the restaurant week menu) that were both magnificent and new to DC Coast:
GRATIN of ARTICHOKE HEARTS with Spinach, JUMBO LUMP CRAB, BENTON BACON (from Alan Benton of Tenn.) & Ricotta Cheese, all superbly broiled to melted perfection. Another dream dish with the Sancerre!
Pan Seared TERES MAJOR STEAK is another new starter served with TRUFFLES, Mashed Potatoes and a STRAWBERRY BBQ Sauce. We were told by the ebullient maitre d'/sommelier Ryan that this was a rare shoulder cut from the cow next to the filet (each cow apparently yields only a couple of these steaks--wow you learn something every day!). Well, no matter, the meat was supreme and the sauce was to die for, a brilliant combination of fruit, truffle, some spice and meat that melted in our mouths.
I must also mention our server, pretty perfect Patrick, who was there at every second to handle whatever Sam or we requested and never flinched or bat an eye (again, all this with the inquiries and demands of restaurant week). Samuel made drawings for Patrick, Ryan and another server Rick (who is a well known local actor we know) and carefully spelled out each one's name on the back. It was adorable, and this time, he was truly a gem!
By this point, he was on his SORBET TRIO consisting of Coconut-Lime ( a bit too mealy for me, more akin to Indian Kulfi), Passion Fruit-Banana and the one that Sam gobbled up-PEAR GINGER!
We had moved on to a superb 2006 ROUSANNE from VERGET in the Vin de Pays de Vaucluse region. We knew before we came to DC Coast what entree we both wanted, and it was no surprise after the previous night's crabcake competition that we opted for the now famous TOWER of CRAB consisting of a huge JUMBO LUMP CRAB CAKE sitting atop a Tempura-style battered CRISPY SOFTSHELL CRAB and a plate of SWEET CORN SUCCOTASH, also laden with chunks of crab. The simplest of crabcakes with no filler and just some spices was indeed the best one we have had in a very long time (including all those the previous night). It was moist and did not need the corn sauce below, although that was an enhancement from time to time. The softshell was also superb and I can only hope to see some more of them on my plate in upcoming weeks before the season ends.
Desserts were the KEY LIME CHEESECAKE with Cinnamon Sugar Graham Cookie, which was really an ingenious Panna Cotta in Lime sauce with cookie on the side. Pastry Chef Lauren Whitledge does a great ALMOND CREME BRULEE which crunchy top and a FRESH BERRY COMPOTE and Brown Sugar Biscotti on the side for a dash of extra flavor.
We WERE stuffed and are glad we have a night off before our next restaurant week assignment tomorrow!
PS- the only complaint we all had was that the dining room was a bit chilly.
Just wanted to let you know that the Washington/Baltimore Zagat 2009 Guide came out last week and there are some new/odd/interesting items to be observed:
Most popular DC spots in order: Citronelle/Zaytina/Jaleo/Kinkead's
Top Food ratings go to Makoto (I like this but don't see why its #1)/Inn at Little Washington (tie) then 2nd place tie for Komi/Cityzen/Marcel's and L'Auberge Provencale. Third place honors for Citronelle/Eve/Obelisk/L'Auberge Chez Francois/Ray's the Steaks/Prime Rib/Le Paradou/Palena and Kinkead's.
Top Decor & Service went to Inn at Little Washington (watch here for a review in mid-Sept!)
While I may not totally agree, the Zagat guide does tend to be a pretty good reference in general.
As always, Zagat gives high scores (as I do) to DC COAST (www.dccoast.com) that has become, along with Kinkead's, one of the fine seafood bastions of DC cuisine.
We popped into DC COAST with Samuel on the second night of Restaurant Week and things were running quite smoothly. Those of you in the biz know that Restaurant Week can be feared. Will always enlightens me with such anecdotes about clients asking if they can SPLIT the lunch at $20.08. This week he got a call from one woman worried that being seated downstairs, she might be left in the dark! Anyway, DC Coast seems to have the clientele and the superb staff in order, and there was not a single glitch all night. Their menu includes a choice of about 6 or 7 starters, any main course (surcharge only for lobster) and a choice of 3 or 4 desserts. The minor limitations on starters probably keeps it a bit easier to manage, and they are all of good quality and have a wide range. Will had the YELLOW HEIRLOOM TOMATO GAZPACHO with CRAB that was sublime and I had the WARM BALSAMIC SHRIMP on WILTED SPINACH, Roasted Peppers and Garlic Toast. The three large skewered shrimp were moist and full of flavor from the balsamic sauce and roasted peppers in it.
Samuel went right for the FISH & CHIPS which were, to quote him, the best he has ever had (well, at least until we get to Yorkshire next week!). The batter was nicely seasoned and the fish was excellent. I thought at first it must be halibut, but was told it was tilapia, which I ALWAYS find so dry. I am totally amazed how Chef Travis Timberlake managed to keep this fish so moist! The fries were yummy too, as we explained to Samuel how the French called them "frites," the Brits "chips" and we French fries.
We started with a totally wondrous minerally, steely and slightly creamy SANCERRE 2006 from Chateau de Sancerre in the Loire; this wine has everything going for it and is perfect with most seafood (think of that mineral acidity with the gazpacho and the balsamic!).
We wanted to try several things so two additional appetizers came (not on the restaurant week menu) that were both magnificent and new to DC Coast:
GRATIN of ARTICHOKE HEARTS with Spinach, JUMBO LUMP CRAB, BENTON BACON (from Alan Benton of Tenn.) & Ricotta Cheese, all superbly broiled to melted perfection. Another dream dish with the Sancerre!
Pan Seared TERES MAJOR STEAK is another new starter served with TRUFFLES, Mashed Potatoes and a STRAWBERRY BBQ Sauce. We were told by the ebullient maitre d'/sommelier Ryan that this was a rare shoulder cut from the cow next to the filet (each cow apparently yields only a couple of these steaks--wow you learn something every day!). Well, no matter, the meat was supreme and the sauce was to die for, a brilliant combination of fruit, truffle, some spice and meat that melted in our mouths.
I must also mention our server, pretty perfect Patrick, who was there at every second to handle whatever Sam or we requested and never flinched or bat an eye (again, all this with the inquiries and demands of restaurant week). Samuel made drawings for Patrick, Ryan and another server Rick (who is a well known local actor we know) and carefully spelled out each one's name on the back. It was adorable, and this time, he was truly a gem!
By this point, he was on his SORBET TRIO consisting of Coconut-Lime ( a bit too mealy for me, more akin to Indian Kulfi), Passion Fruit-Banana and the one that Sam gobbled up-PEAR GINGER!
We had moved on to a superb 2006 ROUSANNE from VERGET in the Vin de Pays de Vaucluse region. We knew before we came to DC Coast what entree we both wanted, and it was no surprise after the previous night's crabcake competition that we opted for the now famous TOWER of CRAB consisting of a huge JUMBO LUMP CRAB CAKE sitting atop a Tempura-style battered CRISPY SOFTSHELL CRAB and a plate of SWEET CORN SUCCOTASH, also laden with chunks of crab. The simplest of crabcakes with no filler and just some spices was indeed the best one we have had in a very long time (including all those the previous night). It was moist and did not need the corn sauce below, although that was an enhancement from time to time. The softshell was also superb and I can only hope to see some more of them on my plate in upcoming weeks before the season ends.
Desserts were the KEY LIME CHEESECAKE with Cinnamon Sugar Graham Cookie, which was really an ingenious Panna Cotta in Lime sauce with cookie on the side. Pastry Chef Lauren Whitledge does a great ALMOND CREME BRULEE which crunchy top and a FRESH BERRY COMPOTE and Brown Sugar Biscotti on the side for a dash of extra flavor.
We WERE stuffed and are glad we have a night off before our next restaurant week assignment tomorrow!
PS- the only complaint we all had was that the dining room was a bit chilly.
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