We have known Chef Amy Brandwein for decades since she started at Galileo
with Roberto Donna and it is such a treat that after years with Roberto and at
other fine establishments in the DC area, she is now in her own place. Osteria
CENTROLINA opened just weeks ago at 974 Palmer Alley (centrolinadc.com) in the
new elegant CityCenter DC complex which is gorgeous.
The fact that earlier in the week, the Zagat guide listed Centrolina as one
of the 15 hottest new dining spots in the entire USA made the place booming and
I am sure it will continue to do so, as the food is simply superb.
It's not huge and shares space with the Centrolina Market selling some
excellent foods, drinks and treats. I will state up front, that the space is
noisy, but I took three performers (a pianist and two opera singers) as well as
two dear friends/clients (after a recital they gave at the Phillips Collection)
and we were so involved in conversation all night, the noise didn't bother
us.
We sat down and right away bumped into friends Wendy Rieger and Jim Handley
from NBC dining at the next table! It's definitely a fun place for
everyone.
I perused the not too big wine list and decided on two reds, a huge Barolo
for later and a Bastioni Chianti to start. After a while our server, Steve
returned to advise the Chianti was out, but that they had a superb Tascante,
Ghiaia Nera 2012 from Sicily which we all agreed was superb with black cherry
overtones and lush flavor.
The menu has starters/pastas/mains and is very simple and straightforward.
I suggested we each choose a starter and main and split two pastas.
Steve began to scribble our choices:
Burrata came with Zucchini Scapece
Crudo was tune with yummy beets, first tomatoes and lemon
Pulpo was seasoned amazingly with paprika and came with potato confit,
cotechino and celery salad.
We enjoyed the Tascante so much we asked for another bottle, but they were out of that, so we were offered a Zisola Nero di Avola from Sicily 2011 made by Mazzei that I said was like black chalk. Not bad chalk, yummy earthy, deep black wine, that was super with our pastas.
I had asked for one order of Reginette which is Quid ink with black cod,
crab, morels and chanterelles, but they were out of that (already three down!)
and I know I will have it next time and arrive earlier!
We ordered the table's choice of Pappardelle with Rabbit Ragu (an old
favorite of Roberto Donna) with black olive and Nebbiolo which was good, but
the
Ceci e Tria was a spectacular buckwheat with chickpeas, anchovy and garlic
that packed a superb spicy kick.
As I mentioned I ordered a Barolo earlier and you can imagine my face when
the sommeileuse came over to say they were out of that. She offered up a divine
Situ Moresco 2011 "Barolo-style" wine which ran much higher, but for the same
price. I was a happy camper.
Almost all of us ordered the same main course, Tonno or rare tuna with a
huge bone marrow (my FB page has a photo of the singers with the bones in their
mouths--as well as the dish itself) on the plate, charred onion, snap pea and a
rich pinot nero sauce.
Across from me, piled high so I could almost not see my guest, was Fritto
Misto of chicken, lamb, veal, sausage, zucchini, onion and just about anything
that can be fried. I don't see how one person could ever eat this. Veggies
available as side dishes included my favorite Rapini with Garlic, Anchovy, Hot
peppers and lemon zest. The Farro comes with wood roasted mushrooms, peas and
peas shoots and is also quite filling and tasty and the Asparagus are roasted
perfectly with green garbanzos and citrus zest.
We were all full, but could not resist dessert or cheese and agreed on two
desserts to share as well as one cheese plate. It was a brilliant choice.
Torta di Limone is ricotta, pistachio, lemon and is scattered with black
and red raspberries. The Pignoli is ike a pecan pie but richer with a pine-nut
honey crostata and a parmesam puff as well as chocolate drizzle and
gelato.
The cheeses were all tasty and varied and came with superb crisp fruited
crackers that were very very thin as well as mostardo, pear jam/mostardo mix and
some fresh currants.
Molaterno is a sheep cheese from Puglia that is akin to parmesan
Ubriaco
Truffaldino is a British truffled cheddar
Jershire is a Pennsylvania cow
Gorgonzola Dolce (super with the pear jam/mostardo)
We were all thrilled with the food, the service and offer our sincerest
congratulations to DC's newest hottest Chef Amy Brandwein and her entire
staff.
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