Saturday, October 11, 2008

The HELMAND inBaltimore has potential

For years I have wanted to dine at THE HELMAND (806 N. Charles St, Baltimore, MD tel 410-752-0311) for numerous reasons. It is has always been rated by many guides as Baltimore's most popular spot (the prices sure are good) and features the cuisine of Afghanistan, one that I have never had the opportunity to try.

THE HELMAND has been around for some time and I doubt much has changed there: the wooden floors are scattered with Afghan rugs as are the mustard and brick walls. In addition there are plates, fabric squares and one native costume on the walls. There is a cozy feel, if a bit to crowded, and by the time we finished there was not a single table empty in either room.

We decided to try as much as possible and share everything, starting with KADDO BORAWNI, pan fried PUMPKIN, baked with sugar in a YOGURT-GARLIC Sauce, the operative word here being GARLIC. I adore garlic, ad this dish was strong, but we had no clue that it would revisit us all evening throughout the opera and the night! I adored the intense flavor, and even thought to try and make the sauce at home, but today I would definitely hestitate. Perhaps the garlic was raw, or just too much--Oh well! The AUSHAK was an Afghan style ravioli that sadly came lukewarm but filled with tasty leeks and served in a yogurt-mint ground beef sauce that was divine.

The bread (like in Indian restaurants) comes with a small fee (2,50 or 4.50) and is like a thick version of naan in small squares. It really works great with all the superb sauces and is worth every cent.

Our entrees were the slightly dry LAMB LAWAND which was braised with tomato, mushrooms and herbs in a yogurt and sour cream sauce that did manage to cover the meat's slight dryness. ON the side was CHALLOW, a simple rice pilaf that comes with a slightly spicy green sauce and a superb bowl of SABZY, just sauteed spinach. The combination makes for a splendid meal.

The MANTWO is a soft housemade pastry shell (very similar to the Aushak ravioli) and is spicier because it is filled with Onion and Ground Beef and served on Yogurt wit Yellow Split-Peas, Carrots and a Beef Sauce (also very moppable). The flavor was much more impressive than the Aushak as well.

Dessert could have ben skipped as the Turkish Coffee was 60% sediment and quite bitter and my ANAAR-PANEER was about as dry and tasteless as cheese gets, even though it was sprinkled with pomegranate extract and raisins. The local Afghan cheese resembles ricotta, but rely is quite unexciting. Will did better with the FEERENY, a condensed milk pudding with lots of fresh fruit.

I am really glad I finally got my first taste of Afghan food, and would truly try it again, but do warn you to be wary of the garlic and avoid the desserts!