Friday, August 01, 2008

Santa Fe: Cut the COWGIRL BBQ and Hawaiian musings at MAUKA

Yesterday's dining was a mixed bag all day with my return to the COWGIRL BBQ at 319 S. Guadalupe (www.cowgirlsantafe.com) where we had a super breakfast just a couple of years ago. I was in a GREEN CHILE BURGER mod and really wanted to go to my favorite burger place around (Bobcat Bite) but just didn't have the time to drive the 15-20 minutes each way, and could not justify the waste of gas. Sadly, Bobcat is only open Wednesday-Saturday and since I leave Tuesday, I know have missed that option! Cowgirl's GAME BURGER sounds great and looked even better on the plate. A combination of elk, buffalo and venison smothered with melted cheddar and a superb green chile sauce. Simple, yes, but I asked for it medium rare and it came pretty well done! I mentioned this to the server who shrugged. When the bill came, he had removed my lemonade and cut the cost of the burger by a buck or so, but it was so dry I felt cheated. The accompanying salad was nice!

Two years ago the NY Times gave KASASOBA raves, and I loved it too. It closed last year way too soon and has been replaced my MAUKA (www.maukarestaurant.com restaurant.com) where Joel Coleman is the chef/owner. "Mauka" is the Hawaiian term for mountainside, and Mr. Coleman's Hawaiian roots are clear on this menu. The space itself has not changed much with black wood booths and banquettes with not too comfy pillows on the seats remain, but the Japanese kitschy movie posters are gone and replaced with large mirrors on the plain walls and four "Audubon"-like prints of Hawaiian flora. Outside dining, as in so many places is an option as well.

The HAWAIIAN POKE SPRING ROLL was four huge slices of superbly raw Hawaiian ahi tuna wrapped and then flash fried for crunch and serve over a bed of Pineapple/Scallion/Thai Chili salad. The pieces were almost and inch and a half across and really a bit too large to eat in one bite, although I persevered..the guy across the room ended up dissecting each piece. The $15 appetizer was huge and tasty, so I asked the waiter for a good rest before my entree.

The Fish special was WALLOO (Hawaiian ESCOLAR) cooked over Market Veggies (zucchini/mild peppers/thin yellow was beans/greens/onion and a couple of cold potatoes) with a superb lightly creamy TRUFFLE PINEAPPLE REDUCTION. When I told the server about the potatoes, I got an "I'll tell the kitchen." When the bill came I was in shock at the $35 entree price (well, it was my fault as the menu read MP--or market price-- and I should have asked!) as the dish was good, but no revelation.

Things went back to quality with my dessert and I opted to make this a "three course pineapple tasting" with the BLACKBERRY CLAFOUTIS served with a large puddle of PINEAPPLE CARAMEL that was heavenly and three fresh blackberries nesting atop the sauce. The cake was simple and the dish was excellent..a shame the entree was not up to the same level overall.

As the opera was long, and my nap didn't ever work out, I refrained from alcohol (I was surprised that sake was NOT served by the glass) and had a yummy pot of tea.

Today--dinner at 315--which has been getting the raves as one of Santa Fe's newer spots.