Lincoln Center got a new dining addition a couple of months ago which comes in at the highest range for "casual" but is really worth the splurge. BA BOULUD (1900 Broadway 212-595-0303) is directly across the street from Lincoln Center and part of the Daniel Boulud expanding empire of bistros and cafes and dining destinations from NY to Florida (www.danielnyc.com).
The long narrow space has a curved ceiling that is white with not the greatest lighting, but decent ambience, although the tables in the rear are a bit too close (one waiter served a steak-frites at the next table and had his rear in my face at one point)., The bar is 1/2 the length on one side with booths on the other side. An adorable round tasting table is at the rear. The booths extend the entire length of the right side and have two wine coolers in the backs of each one between each pair (an ingenious idea and use of space). The wood is blond and the wall is adorned with photos of wine stains (all given a vintage and vineyard).
Speaking of wine, I started with a glass of DOMAINE MARDON, 2006 QUINCY V.V. from the Loire, a tart but tasty Sauvignon Blanc (but I have no clue what the V.V. stands for, and neither did my server). One of the big attractions here is the charcuterie prepared by ChefCharcutier Sylvain Gasdon; I was mightily impresed with my terrine choice: COMPOTE de VEAU "en blanquette" which was shredded slow- braised veal short rib with carrots and leeks. A Button Mushroom
Remoulade, tasty mustard, cornichons, pickled onions and small frisee salad accompanied this delectable creation.
I moved on to the SOUPE de MOULES which was a dreamy Butternut Squash and MUSSEL BISQUE with toasted shallots, Curry Chantilly, chock full of mussels and diced squash that's was rich and creamy and perfect on this cold and wet March evening.
Incidentally, I arrived at 5pm and the place was empty, by 630pm it was jammed and heaving.
My second wine was a DOMAINE PELAQUIE Cotes du Rhones Villages 2006 "Laudun" that was dark amber, full of body, and wonderfully wood aged like a great vintage French white; what a treat at $10/glass.
My entree was actually an appetizer portion of ST JACQUES au CHOU with two huge Grilled Maine Scallops, Orleans Mustard, Winter Slaw and a Red Cabbage Marmelade. It was just right after the other two dishes and I was glad I did not choose an entree, although there were many tempting ones!
With this I had a glass of Grands Vignes du Roy 2006 Chateauneuf dePape, that cost twice as much as the white Rhone, and while very tasty, did not have the same amount of character or intensity. It was a tough call between dessert and cheese, but I quickly went with the latter choosing three types which were simply described on the menu:
Earthy-Abbaye de Citeaux
Stinky-Epoisses
Old & Hard-22 month aged Mimolette
I also got an extra treat of Sheep Ossaue-Vielle which was very tasty, which I asked my server AnnaLisa for a little taste of and she managed to squeeze it out of the kitchen!
The breads were nice, but the cheese was star.
I forgot to mention the amazing (and large) warm cheese Gougeres (like popovers) that arrived just after I sat down and melted in my mouth to perfection. These all come from Chef Boulanger Mark Fiorento, and the Executive Chef here is Damian Samsonetti.
I look forward to returning to Bar Boulud as it is a wonderful spot before or after anything at Lincoln Center!
