Sunday, April 30, 2006

SPIRE aspires to great heights and reaches them

Only one night in Boston led us to SPIRE, a truly superb restaurant in the Hotel Nine Zero, located at 90 Tremont Street (www.spirerestaurant.com) in the heart of downtown. The six of us mosied past the Boston Common to dinner after a wonderful performance of Lucrezia Borgia at the Opera. Our conundrum was that my clients were vegetarians, but we needed a place with quality food and options for all. The staff was superb in accommodating our requests, and the "Vegetarian entrees" which four of us ordered were actually each four different plates for EACH person, so varied and exciting that Chef Mayumi had to come out and explain each dish. She was gracious and sweet, and answered every question and really had her staff working hard for us.

The restaurant is subdued and pale with hints of blue and recessed ceiling lights in circular areas. The curtains are pale blue gauze. We wove our way through the noisy bar to a luckily quiet and serene dining area. Our server Stephanie was very helpful with suggestions, but when it came to the wine list, I was completely confused. The first Bethel Heights Pinot Noir I ordered was not the single vineyard or vintage on the wine list, and she said that it was still the same price (although I knew the wine was a less pricey option). So I tried a Panther Creek Shea Vineyard Pinot, which actually came out as the Freedom Hill Vineyard, which I don't like as much as the Shea. Finally, Steven, the sommelier/manager came over and sorted things out. The management of the hotel and therefore the restaurant is actually changing today, so the wine lilst is in flux. As a concession he gave us a much more expensive 2001 DOMAINE SERENE "Evenstad Reserve" Pinot Noir at the lower price comparable to the Bethel or Panther! It was yummy, and we were on our way.

An amuse of BOCCHERONE (fresh marinated anchovies) over Romesco Sauce with Mizuna and Celery was presented as a Bruschetta, and it easily piqued our palates for more. I opted for the CHATHAM HALIBUT & LOCAL BEET TARTARE with Red Onion, Fried Brioche, Ossetra Caviar, SLiced Chive in a Dashi (seaweed) Broth which was a revelation. The ceviche style dish was excellent and the flavors melded beautifully. I also enjoyed a superb glass of MARCEL DIESS 2001 Pinot Blanc from Alsace with its super-terroir driven minerality. I tasted the excellent (and large) GNOCCHI which everyone raved about. It seemed we were all very happy.

A special course came out as a treat and mine was the SPIRE CALM BAKE which has a Sweet Corn Puree with Poached Maine Lobster (plenty of it, too), Pat's (a local purveyor) Clams and Fried Potato Slices. It really was rich and filling.

I mentioned the excellent Vegetable entrees, but I went with the ORGANIC VEAL PORTERHOUSE with Artisanal Bacon, Red Spaetzle, Pearl Onions and Whole Grain Mustard that was a perfection of a chop. We moved to a much bigger wine that was another real treat called ROCKET SCIENCE from Caldwell Vineyard in Napa. The 2002 blend is Cabernet, Syrah & Merlot and packs a punch but is as smooth and tasty as any big red can be. It will easily satisfy any discriminating palate for red wine!

Needless to say, we were all so full we could manage another bite at the end of this glorious journey. On the way out, it was great to see TRICIA KOMINSKY from Washington's Poste who just moved to Boston to manage SPIRE under the new Kimpton regime that is taking over the hotel. We wished her all the best of luck, but could not feel bad that Washington is losing one if its truly great restaurant mangers! I am sure she will make SPIRE soar!