IF you have the time and are on the Upper West Side, take a walk several blocks north of Lincoln Center to 208 West 70th (at Amsterdam & Broadway) (www.compassrestaurant.com) where Chef..... has opened COMPASS, but be sure to have a reservation, as this is one of the hottest spots in the area.
Chef John Fraser has brought the ingenuity of his time at the French Laundry in Napa to the East Coast, but the menu is not geared for extensive dining as New Yorkers seem to be rushing in and out. A tasting menu can be arranged (I found it) in advance, but many folks seem to go for the three course prix fixe. I opted to order a la carte as I had over two hours and was alone.
A truly one bite amuse came of house cured salmon with apple mustard that made me want more.... The breads were delish, but I have never have SPOONBREAD CORNBREAD so yummy, crunchy and moist.
I started with the first of the season SOFT SHELL CRAB TEMPURA with fried OKRA and Tomato Salsa and Avocado Puree. It was a treat to have them so early (well, May IS this week!) and the preparation was simple with fresh tomato salsa that just accented the crab.
A glass of GRUNER VELTLINER HIELDLER "Loess" Kamptal 2004 from Austria with hints of citrus and lots of apple was just perfect.
I'm not sure what it is that makes me get such a great reception in many restaurants where I don't even know anyone. Perhaps its the pen and paper I take out and start scribbling with the second I sit down? Compass has a very gray atmosphere in that the comfortable chairs are shades of gray, the columns are slate covered, the glass walls are smoked (one of them is the wine cooler!), and the staff seem to be mostly in shades of gray and black. Splashes of color are welcome such as the huge spray of apple blossoms in a monster vase and the small orchid on the table in an opaque vase with matching votive candle.
My server, Robert, who was ever so helpful warned me not to over order as a special plate was coming from the kitchen. This was more than special as I received a bowl of RISOTTO with ROAST SUCKLING PIG (small shreds) and PORCINI Mushrooms as well as an accompanying 1/2 glass of MARSANNE 2004 LES GRANDES VIGNES du ROY which was a delightful Marsanne/Roussane blend from the Rhone. I adored the hidden BABY LEEKS in the Risotto as well as the entire dish, but needed to ask for a little break before my entree of SEARED BREAST of LONG ISLAND DUCK with a BRAISED LEG in PASTILLE (a small triangle of pastry stuffed with the
confit), BOK CHOY, TOKYO TURNIPS, PINE N UTS and DRIED APRICOT VINAIGRETTE. The dish was heavenly, and the meat came just as I requested between rare and medium-rare. The bok choy was sauteed with a slight caramelization and there were also some cooked apricots and a dash of coarse salt as well. I loved the way Chef Fraser uses his coarse salt as a simple sprinkle on many of the dishes for an accent of flavor. Robert suggested the least expensive red by the glass and was spot on with the smokiness of the CANNONAU di SARDEGNA 2002 Sella & Mosca, akin to a Grenache, but with lots of flavor and body that worked so well with all the ingredients inn the duck. This was one dish where a Pinot Noir could have failed if it was not huge.
I rested again before considering desserts and found the ONLY fault with Compass was the omission of the dessert wines from the dessert menu. The sommelier, who was also most helpful, said that would be rectified very soon! I chose a superb PILLATERRI 2003 VIDAL ICEWINE that oozed apricot heaven in an amber color that one rarely sees except in the finest of dessert wines. I finally settled after much trepidation (the pastries from Vera Tong were so varied) on the MILK CHOCOLATE PEANUT BUTTER BAR with Frozen Milk and Smoked Paprika Potato Chips (and a dab of Sour Cherry Gelee). I didn't much care for the chips, but the bar was supreme. A Twix-size creation filled with creamy smooth homemade peanut butter that was Reese's times one hundred in its excellence. The icy milk was perfect to cut the richness in every several bites.
Moments later Robert brought out a portion of the VANILLA TRIFLE, as he knew I was so indecisive. This treat had superb pound cake with vanilla creme anglaise layered below macerated strawberries and a small scoop of strawberry sorbet; anyone would have loved this!
I sat and sipped my cappuccino as I thought of returning to the opera house (I had sat through 5 hours of Wagner at the matinee and still had Tosca in the evening!). Robert returned with a beautiful slate slab and three pairs of "petit fours": Pistachio biscotti which were fine, a chocolate cup with chocolate mousse and mango on tp and the most amazing mignardise ever-PORK CRACKLING covered with White Chocolate and Salt & Pepper. TIME OUT Magazine gave Compass an award for having the final thing on each diner's plate being pork! Well, this treat was akin to chocolate covered pretzels in that it had the saltiness as well, and truly was a fun treat to say farewell with. BUT SURELY, I will return to COMPASS SOON!
